This is fantastic!! Just the model I have which I found curbside. It was very dirty from being in (probably) open storage, but it looks like it was never used. I cleaned it up and it really looks like new. I have a blue container for of K-1 that I got from a Speedway gas station, so that is burning pretty cleanly. The coil ignition is working, so I don't need a lighter! I'd like to make one comment... when you remove the control knob, make sure that you depress and hold the button on the knob as you pull it off the shaft. I think you're doing this in the video, but you don't say it. The slide plate on the back of the knob will bow and then it will not work smoothly. If this happens to you, you can use a small brad hammer and flatten it back down and then it's perfect again. Thanks for the great video!
You have no idea how much this video helps! 82 year old widow here and I have a 3 pin type wick. Only your instructions make any sense for this type wick replacement. WOOHOO!!! Many thanks
I have a Corona 23-DK which had the original wick from when the unit was purchased new by my dad around 1985. The most difficult aspect of doing this is lining up the wick pins to the holes for proper movement, as you gave some mention to. I would like to emphasize that the wick is dry when new; either the wick needs to be pre-soaked in kerosene or the center drum needs to be lubricated with a light oil (I used WD 40). A dry wick will overload the wick mechanism and prevent movement, so it was trial and error until I was able finally get the wick to slide without too much effort. Anyway, thanks for an otherwise great video. Hope that this wick will last half as long as the old one did.
I recently rescued a Corona 23 DK from the metal pile at the town transfer station. After a quick inspection I determined it had never been used. I'll be lighting it for the first time tomorrow. This video has been helpful.
I’m so glad I found your channel. You are a very good teacher and give great verbal instruction with visual demo. I’m just getting into kerosene heating as alternative heat source. I have a suggestion that may help your viewers with holding the spring-loaded knob. As a woodworker I am sure you use a lot of clamps and I was thinking it kind of looks like a two person job but I believe a shorter length bar clamp with the rubber jaws and trigger grip may enable a person to turn that burner on its side while holding the knob and squeeze the clamp down on the bench. Hope that helps someone.
Thank you! We pulled our Corona 23-DK Kerosene heater out of storage after 11 years and struggled to get it going again. We found your video and were able to follow directions (with a few pauses and replays of the wick replacement segments) and got it going again. Works like new! The temperatures were in the single digits last night and we need this heater to supplement our heat pump. Thanks again!
Thank you SO much!!! You are the only one on TH-cam that explained that the wick needs to be up or it jams the mechanism. Kudos to you. Thanks again!!!
Thank you! I have had this heater since...before 2006...but only used it for power outages and heater malfunctions. I had never changed the wick! I had to watch the video twice, but got it done.
I actually have a Dura Heat with 3 pin system but this video was still the one that helped me change the wick...and I've watched a ton of videos. Thanks and great job!👋👋👋
Thanks! I really hemmed and hawed this summer about whether the time, cost, and effort of putting in installation was worth it, especially since I don't know how much longer I am staying in the this space. But, I it has already been worth it, if just for the fact I am substantially less crabby because I'm not working in 30 degree temps. Last year around this time we had a cold snap that lasted weeks with temps in the 20s during the day and I was just miserable.
@@HoneyBadgerWoodWorks Ooo. Less grumpy. That's good! I'm sure that the question of more insulation will rear its head again soon ... But maybe these two heaters will quell the grumpies. 😃😃
Theyre great heaters my warehouse is the same no sun until late afternoon,i replace my wick every 3 years they do sell the wick at Lowes just have to cross reference to get the right duraheat one(as im listening to yiu say that),im in Philly too.
Thank you for this video. Thought it would take forever to get the pins in the wick to get in their hole s. Was a struggle for the first couple of minutes and then all of the sudden they popped in. So very much appreciate you for making this. About to have a winter storm and needed this!!
Great video! I replaced the wick in mine today; and thanks to this video, it probably turned 90 minutes into 20 mins total. One goofy thing that happened when I pulled the core unit up after you remove the wing nuts and expose the old wick is that it pulled the rubber seal up at the base as well, so I had to reset the seal. I'm not seeing a rubber seal on yours at all so either someone trashed it or mine is a slightly different model but everything else looks the same. Great instructional, the only thing I would add is that when you are aligning all of the holes up for the new wick I found it easier just to hold the on/off switch in place with one finger rather than holding the dial. Thanks for doing this video!
Great video, and I have the corona 23dk, paid $20 for it at a thrift shop, but I figured out after a month of use that I needed to use that kerosene fuel additive to extend the wick life,...most people use the additive, and I didn't,...haha, screwed up, I sure did, .....so the problem of mine is that I use red k1 kerosene and I believe it carbons up faster, and I started out with a new wick but after, well, filling up the tank like five times I noticed there was starting to be a problem starting it and burning,....then I say when I had used twelve gallons, it wouldn't light.....I put some additive in the kerosene and took the thing apart and wiped some carbon off and did some cleaning,...ordered a new wick, nothing sold locally, so it worked better, but I feel now that I have a new wick that I probably will have to take it apart and put the new wick in anyway, even though I have run it dry several times, like four more gallons,...if I had used the additive from the beginning that I am sure I would have no problems with the original wick, a obvious new one, when I started. Around here, red kerosene k1 is $3.35 per gallon, but clear, only found at the local hardware, is almost $8 per gallon, and, well, as cheap as the wicks are, I'd rather continue to use red kerosene at its low price per gallon. ...That was interesting about the new kerosene heater being more fuel efficient,.....of course the manual for the corona 23 dk is online, and it claims 9.5 hours operation per tank fill,.......that would be interesting if the new dynaglo or other new ones get more hours per the same amount of fuel. I sort of feel the older ones, like the corona, are made better,...its possible yours has some problems due to age, use and or abuse, maybe, unsure how that could effect thing, ....I do like that the other brands are easier to change a wick,...oh yeah, if I could spare the cash for a new one then I'd do it, but they are like, let me see, at walmart, $125 or $135 for a dynaglo, and they sell wicks there too.....I use mine to cut down on the huge electric costs in winter, and its working,....maybe next year I'll have a newer model as a second model, I too am building a spare shed for painting or woodworking, or other things, apart from my custom built and insulated 10x16 footer building/shed with electricity that I've done some wood refinishing and small painting projects like you do. I would say that I am on the southern Oregon coast and that winters are mild here,...well, I live too close to the local dunes, and the cold air rushes off the ocean and over to my place home and freezes the heck out of things here sooner and quicker than other locales more inland, and they raise electric rates in winter, I could be paying with a newer energy efficient electric furnace in a double wide manufactured home less than ten years old into the $300 to $400 range per month if I set it to seventy five degrees and just left it there all winter, back to fifty bucks in warmer times, ...go figure, so aggravating,...so technically, maybe by next year I will have seen a newer kerosene heater at a thrift shop again for twenty bucks in summer, or by next winter I will just bite the bullet for a new heater with readily available wicks as a second one to have, especially with my work schedule and my health that when I had a problem with the heater that it took me a week to get around to screwing with it, cleaning, and ordering a new wick, ...using electricity to do some heating, god, my electric bill. Anyway, am running mine down to dry to burn off carbon, even though I have a new wick right here, as an experiment, to see what happens,...though I should for sure this weekend, well, my weekend, sunday and monday, change my wick to brand new, probably will,...AND will use additive,....its one ounce per five gallons, and the bottle is eight ounces.
I wish I would have remembered to mention the additive in the video. I use it as well and it makes a big difference. I use the red Kero too because the other stuff is ridiculously expensive. Right now I run both first thing in the morning to take the edge off, then run one or the other for the rest of the day. I have been going through about one 5 gallon tank a week and it is about 20.00 to fill up so all in all I am pretty happy with that. The next few weeks it is supposed to get much colder though so that could change. I have been getting the shop to around 50-55 degrees. I could get it warmer if I run both on high all day long, but there really is no need for it. Funny the manual says you can get 9.5 hours per tank fill, maybe on low you could get close to that, but I would guess I'm more around the 6 hour range per fill, maybe a little more haven't tracked it too closely.
I just used diesel for the first time yesterday, cause I failed to get some k1 red tinted kerosene during the week, and the place was closed on a Saturday,...its running right now on diesel. What I did though was use "seefoam" anti gelling additive like others said, ....it is one ounce per gallon of diesel, like the instructions on the additive says, plus if I want to I can get kerosene and just dump the diesel into my diesel truck tank. I almost swear I saw less smoke at start up than with k1, and the additive makes sure the wick is not screwed up. One point though, I believe the small amount of smoke that did come up was more dense, and it left a little on the top of the heater, maybe more inside,...bummer, but it can be used, and I suppose I could use more additive or use the k1 kerosene additive as well or just the k1 additive. I was using electricity recently, thought winter was over, haha, then the snow started on the Oregon coast, plenty of freezing weather. Frankly, I like that diesel has no color additive that I knew was a wick clogger if not careful. i I cannot smell anything different using diesel, almost seems less stinky, and I think that the soot on the top and on the inside is cause diesel is thicker, and I could treat the heck out of diesel with additives, .....more additives. Seefoam additive isn't exactly cheap though, I think its over ten dollars a bottle, but might be cheaper than k1 additive even if I used two ounces of additive per gallon instead of one ounce per gallon. I will experiment, when I turn it off, I will wipe the soot off the top that formed, put in a little put in some k1 additive I have left into the tank of the heater. I inspected the wick this morning, I had let the diesel heater burn off all its fuel and shut itself off this morning,...with the window opened a crack in the other room, and the wick was clean as a whistle, no carbon or anything bad to report.....I have run the wick dry a number of times since when I had clogged the wick after only 12 gallons of untreated k1 kerosene, ....when it didn't even want to light, and when I put additive in the fuel, let it stand for two weeks and got it started and burned it dry, the first time I had done that, and the wick has not needed replacement since. If clear kerosene was cheaply available locally like it was years ago then there wouldn't be all these problems with wicks as much. I have an outbuilding that I want to do some painting or wood refinishing projects in, even in summer, and a kero/oil heater like this could make those projects successful, so its a win win, plus I save at least something on electricity in winter, here, where winter rates can get ridiculous.
Thank you so much for posting this....just got two of these kerosene heaters....one is like new and the other needs cleaned up....both will need the wicks changed for the winter season......now I know how to do it....Thanks again and Wishing you the Best!
Great instructional! I learned most (but not all) of your tips with trial and error and a lot of time I could have saved if I saw this first. One comment: your unit looks so rusty I'm worried you could have a leak somewhere. Something to keep an eye on.
Thanks for your video. I have an older Kerosun a bigger model like the one you replaced the wick with three tabs. Mine has the tabs and have been struggling to get the new wick installed. I’ll try your installation tips to see if I can getRdone. I occasionally use heat in the greenhouse ( 6ply poly & tube frame) to keep the snow from building up where I can’t reach with a push broom to rake off. I have a couple of propane heaters like Mr heater three burner that sits on a bottle and you get instant heat but would like to have more than one option. Propane is now much cheaper than kerosene but still want the Kerosun up & running
@@HoneyBadgerWoodWorks I tried again yesterday still no luck with the wick. Like playing whack a mole keeping all three pins in place. Almost had in on the first try. Those little prongs could be longer.
I think that seems to be my problem as well. No other video mentions anything about holding that knob. I've been working on mine for three days now. I think you all have settled it for me with the info about the knob. So THANKS TO ALL.
Thanks for this video! I'm putting a curb rescue heater back together and the wick was being kind of finicky. It didn't want to retract right and I had it installed correctly but I think the wick holder was very slightly tilted so there was drag on the wick against the center tube. I was trying the safety retract before I put the wing nuts back on and once it was fully seated it worked fine. .... It sounds like you've only had these two? Keep an eye out for a smaller 10,000BTU model. They burn about 10-12 hours on a gallon and are perfect for keeping a garage/shop from getting too cold overnight for not much fuel cost. I also really like the antique Perfection "500" type. In the winter if I'm going to be home I let the furnace run in the morning to get it up to about 65 and then run a Perfection to keep it at 62-67 all day on about a half gallon of fuel. The only problem with the antique ones is that you can't let them run out of fuel or you'll burn up about 1/3 of the wick. They also don't have an automatic extinguisher but for me that's not a problem. ... If you can get it locally at the pump try to burn the clear kerosene instead of the dyed. Your wicks will last longer. Good wicks are important, too. A lot of the Keroworld and similar branded ones you find online at at hardware stores aren't the best. For the past 5 years or so I've been buying all mine from a guy names Miles Stair and they've all been great. (www.milesstair.com) His site also has a huge amount of information and he's answered a few questions via email very quickly.
I actually only used the kerosene for only a year. There were only two stations near me that sold kerosene. One of them the pump has been out of order for years, and the other one half the time I went there the pump was broken. I now have a propane heater which has it's pros and cons, but can easily find a place to fill the tanks for 10.00 each. I preferred the kerosene because it's so much quieter, but just can't source the fuel.
@@HoneyBadgerWoodWorks That's a shame about the fuel. Fuel Oil is the most common heating fuel around here and most of the distributors also have Kero. I've got an outside tank for a built-in wall heater in the garage but most gas stations, or at least 2/3 of them, have dyed or K-1 at the pump. Thankfully, because I only like to burn K-1 in the house. ... I hope the propane is keeping your fingers warm!
Yeah I liked the heaters so it was a bum that the fuel was hard to source. The propane heater works well, but it burns through fuel much faster. Luckily, like last year the winter has been very mild so I'm not too frozen hahaha.
I want to add in due to my reply the other day about using diesel, to where I don't recommend using diesel for two reasons, one where the diesel treated seems to soot up too bad, and two I suspect mine created more carbon monoxide, cause a co detector I had in a closet away from the regular areas once I figured out k1 was safe, it went off, several times, ...maybe it was that I didn't have enough of a window cracked, unsure, or the wick seemed to be clogging up and burning low after only two tanks worth, so I deem it too unsafe for my conditions, maybe if I used the k1 additive that this would not have happened, so if you do, be careful if you use diesel with seefoam fuel treatment. I am gonna burn the rest off in my out building to dry it out more, and put the rest of the diesel in my diesel truck. Plus the soot it produced, its gotten black inside on the upper wall. I think what happened is that I should have put little amounts in just enough that it would burn off, like I had did several times when it burned out and cleaned the wick well, but later when I did not, the flame started getting lower, ...clogged, that is incomplete combustion that creates carbon monoxide.
Yeah I would be careful about using the diesel I have heard across the board it isn't very safe. It would be so convenient though Kerosene (minus the really expensive clear stuff they sell at Lowes) is hard to find around me. There is only one place that is close by and I actually went there the other day and the guy who runs the shop was out so I have been working without it for the past few days. We have been having odd weather spikes out here as well. Will be in the 50s for a few days (which is beyond seasonably warm) then a couple weeks ago it was in the teens and I couldn't get the shop above 35 degrees even with both heaters going. Looks like the next few days I can work without them, then it gets back into the 30s. Luckily, I don't have to worry about Co2 my shop is so drafty nothing stays around for too long.
@@HoneyBadgerWoodWorks the heater was to far gone, I had gotten it second hand, it was to rusted out and not really safe to use, the knob mechanism fell apart, from age, but I bought a new one, and thanks to your video when the wick needs replaced, I know how, thank you.
Just an observation, but it looks as though you're burning dyed fuel. Clear 1-K kerosene will make your wicks last longer. (I've also heard dyed fuel produces more fumes as well, but that's debatable) My 23DK actually specifies to use only "water-clear" K1 kerosene.
Yeah this is dyed stuff, the clear stuff around here is like 5x the price. But, you are right that it is better for the heater. I won't have to worry about it this year because the only two places near me with kerosene no longer sell it so I'm switching to propane this year haha.
Yeah, that's about how much the dyed stuff is here, filling up my 5 gallon container was always a little over 15.00. The only place I have seen clear by me is in the big box stores, and that was 25.00 for a 2.5 gallon container which is just robbery. Even though this heater worked great not going to miss the hassle of finding kerosene. Propane is available all over.
If you don't mind me asking what is the part number for the wick, for the Corona 23 DK? I was just gifted one from my father in law and he has no clue how to replace the wick or even where to buy the wick
I bought this from KeroWorld. If I remember correctly they have a comprehensive chart on their website with models and numbers associated with all kerosene heaters so you order the right one. Mine was model number 28033.
I have the DK17 which is the little brother of the DK-23 Im prob going to have to replace the wick sooner or later since i bought the heater used.Would you know if changing the wick on the DK-17 is exactly the same process i.e. lining up those tabs?
I REALLY hope that's not what you keep it sitting on while it's running with the Jerry can right next to it...surrounded by all kinds of VERY flammable things...craziness what people don't think about,whether it has a safety mechanism or not...why run the risk
I switched to Propane this year so I don't buy the kerosene anymore. I know the white stuff is the best, but by me it is 25.00 dollars for 2.5 gallons. Whereas I could fill a 5 gallon container for about 17.00 of the tinted, and had no problems with it for one season.
@@HoneyBadgerWoodWorks I tried three wicks in my dura heat. They're all at least 6mm higher than what's recommended. The result is extremely high flames even on low. Any suggestions what could be wrong? I tried talking to manufacturer but they were no help.
@@peterbugarchich404 Is it the right fit for your model. I know with mine especially since it is older it was a little hard to find a replacement and I almost accidentally bought the wrong one the first time around. It's it a pinned or unpinned wick. The unpinned ones can be adjusted up and down for the right height.
@@HoneyBadgerWoodWorks Much appreciated your answers. It's the right wick, three pins. it's even listed in the manual. DH 145 I installed the new one and it never sets at 3/8 as described in the manual. It's at 1/2 or slightly higher no matter what I do. I could not imagine that extra 1/8 in height would make such a big difference. I have been thinking about drilling new pin holes in a wick sleeve so it can go lower. I am getting close to tossing the whole thing into the recycle bin
This is fantastic!! Just the model I have which I found curbside. It was very dirty from being in (probably) open storage, but it looks like it was never used. I cleaned it up and it really looks like new. I have a blue container for of K-1 that I got from a Speedway gas station, so that is burning pretty cleanly. The coil ignition is working, so I don't need a lighter!
I'd like to make one comment... when you remove the control knob, make sure that you depress and hold the button on the knob as you pull it off the shaft. I think you're doing this in the video, but you don't say it. The slide plate on the back of the knob will bow and then it will not work smoothly. If this happens to you, you can use a small brad hammer and flatten it back down and then it's perfect again.
Thanks for the great video!
You have no idea how much this video helps! 82 year old widow here and I have a 3 pin type wick. Only your instructions make any sense for this type wick replacement. WOOHOO!!! Many thanks
Nice!
I have a Corona 23-DK which had the original wick from when the unit was purchased new by my dad around 1985. The most difficult aspect of doing this is lining up the wick pins to the holes for proper movement, as you gave some mention to. I would like to emphasize that the wick is dry when new; either the wick needs to be pre-soaked in kerosene or the center drum needs to be lubricated with a light oil (I used WD 40). A dry wick will overload the wick mechanism and prevent movement, so it was trial and error until I was able finally get the wick to slide without too much effort. Anyway, thanks for an otherwise great video. Hope that this wick will last half as long as the old one did.
I recently rescued a Corona 23 DK from the metal pile at the town transfer station. After a quick inspection I determined it had never been used. I'll be lighting it for the first time tomorrow. This video has been helpful.
Nice!
I’m so glad I found your channel. You are a very good teacher and give great verbal instruction with visual demo. I’m just getting into kerosene heating as alternative heat source. I have a suggestion that may help your viewers with holding the spring-loaded knob. As a woodworker I am sure you use a lot of clamps and I was thinking it kind of looks like a two person job but I believe a shorter length bar clamp with the rubber jaws and trigger grip may enable a person to turn that burner on its side while holding the knob and squeeze the clamp down on the bench. Hope that helps someone.
Nice! That is a great tip!
Thank you! We pulled our Corona 23-DK Kerosene heater out of storage after 11 years and struggled to get it going again. We found your video and were able to follow directions (with a few pauses and replays of the wick replacement segments) and got it going again. Works like new! The temperatures were in the single digits last night and we need this heater to supplement our heat pump.
Thanks again!
Nice! I loved how quite those kerosene heaters are. I have a propane heater now and it sounds like a jet engine.
Thank you SO much!!! You are the only one on TH-cam that explained that the wick needs to be up or it jams the mechanism. Kudos to you. Thanks again!!!
Glad it helped!
I agree this is an important step no one shows. Thanks
Thank you!
I have had this heater since...before 2006...but only used it for power outages and heater malfunctions. I had never changed the wick! I had to watch the video twice, but got it done.
BLESS YOU THANK YOU! we’ve struggled with our heater for 2 hours before watching your video! then it was super easy and just took minutes to do!
No problem!
I actually have a Dura Heat with 3 pin system but this video was still the one that helped me change the wick...and I've watched a ton of videos. Thanks and great job!👋👋👋
Gotta love Philly! You do have your tribulations. Glad you're there to share. Love it.
Thanks! I really hemmed and hawed this summer about whether the time, cost, and effort of putting in installation was worth it, especially since I don't know how much longer I am staying in the this space. But, I it has already been worth it, if just for the fact I am substantially less crabby because I'm not working in 30 degree temps. Last year around this time we had a cold snap that lasted weeks with temps in the 20s during the day and I was just miserable.
@@HoneyBadgerWoodWorks Ooo. Less grumpy. That's good! I'm sure that the question of more insulation will rear its head again soon ... But maybe these two heaters will quell the grumpies. 😃😃
Theyre great heaters my warehouse is the same no sun until late afternoon,i replace my wick every 3 years they do sell the wick at Lowes just have to cross reference to get the right duraheat one(as im listening to yiu say that),im in Philly too.
Thank you for this video. Thought it would take forever to get the pins in the wick to get in their hole s. Was a struggle for the first couple of minutes and then all of the sudden they popped in. So very much appreciate you for making this. About to have a winter storm and needed this!!
All of a sudden winter showed up big time hahahaha,
Great video! I replaced the wick in mine today; and thanks to this video, it probably turned 90 minutes into 20 mins total. One goofy thing that happened when I pulled the core unit up after you remove the wing nuts and expose the old wick is that it pulled the rubber seal up at the base as well, so I had to reset the seal. I'm not seeing a rubber seal on yours at all so either someone trashed it or mine is a slightly different model but everything else looks the same. Great instructional, the only thing I would add is that when you are aligning all of the holes up for the new wick I found it easier just to hold the on/off switch in place with one finger rather than holding the dial. Thanks for doing this video!
Great video, and I have the corona 23dk, paid $20 for it at a thrift shop, but I figured out after a month of use that I needed to use that kerosene fuel additive to extend the wick life,...most people use the additive, and I didn't,...haha, screwed up, I sure did, .....so the problem of mine is that I use red k1 kerosene and I believe it carbons up faster, and I started out with a new wick but after, well, filling up the tank like five times I noticed there was starting to be a problem starting it and burning,....then I say when I had used twelve gallons, it wouldn't light.....I put some additive in the kerosene and took the thing apart and wiped some carbon off and did some cleaning,...ordered a new wick, nothing sold locally, so it worked better, but I feel now that I have a new wick that I probably will have to take it apart and put the new wick in anyway, even though I have run it dry several times, like four more gallons,...if I had used the additive from the beginning that I am sure I would have no problems with the original wick, a obvious new one, when I started. Around here, red kerosene k1 is $3.35 per gallon, but clear, only found at the local hardware, is almost $8 per gallon, and, well, as cheap as the wicks are, I'd rather continue to use red kerosene at its low price per gallon. ...That was interesting about the new kerosene heater being more fuel efficient,.....of course the manual for the corona 23 dk is online, and it claims 9.5 hours operation per tank fill,.......that would be interesting if the new dynaglo or other new ones get more hours per the same amount of fuel. I sort of feel the older ones, like the corona, are made better,...its possible yours has some problems due to age, use and or abuse, maybe, unsure how that could effect thing, ....I do like that the other brands are easier to change a wick,...oh yeah, if I could spare the cash for a new one then I'd do it, but they are like, let me see, at walmart, $125 or $135 for a dynaglo, and they sell wicks there too.....I use mine to cut down on the huge electric costs in winter, and its working,....maybe next year I'll have a newer model as a second model, I too am building a spare shed for painting or woodworking, or other things, apart from my custom built and insulated 10x16 footer building/shed with electricity that I've done some wood refinishing and small painting projects like you do. I would say that I am on the southern Oregon coast and that winters are mild here,...well, I live too close to the local dunes, and the cold air rushes off the ocean and over to my place home and freezes the heck out of things here sooner and quicker than other locales more inland, and they raise electric rates in winter, I could be paying with a newer energy efficient electric furnace in a double wide manufactured home less than ten years old into the $300 to $400 range per month if I set it to seventy five degrees and just left it there all winter, back to fifty bucks in warmer times, ...go figure, so aggravating,...so technically, maybe by next year I will have seen a newer kerosene heater at a thrift shop again for twenty bucks in summer, or by next winter I will just bite the bullet for a new heater with readily available wicks as a second one to have, especially with my work schedule and my health that when I had a problem with the heater that it took me a week to get around to screwing with it, cleaning, and ordering a new wick, ...using electricity to do some heating, god, my electric bill. Anyway, am running mine down to dry to burn off carbon, even though I have a new wick right here, as an experiment, to see what happens,...though I should for sure this weekend, well, my weekend, sunday and monday, change my wick to brand new, probably will,...AND will use additive,....its one ounce per five gallons, and the bottle is eight ounces.
I wish I would have remembered to mention the additive in the video. I use it as well and it makes a big difference. I use the red Kero too because the other stuff is ridiculously expensive. Right now I run both first thing in the morning to take the edge off, then run one or the other for the rest of the day. I have been going through about one 5 gallon tank a week and it is about 20.00 to fill up so all in all I am pretty happy with that. The next few weeks it is supposed to get much colder though so that could change. I have been getting the shop to around 50-55 degrees. I could get it warmer if I run both on high all day long, but there really is no need for it. Funny the manual says you can get 9.5 hours per tank fill, maybe on low you could get close to that, but I would guess I'm more around the 6 hour range per fill, maybe a little more haven't tracked it too closely.
I just used diesel for the first time yesterday, cause I failed to get some k1 red tinted kerosene during the week, and the place was closed on a Saturday,...its running right now on diesel. What I did though was use "seefoam" anti gelling additive like others said, ....it is one ounce per gallon of diesel, like the instructions on the additive says, plus if I want to I can get kerosene and just dump the diesel into my diesel truck tank. I almost swear I saw less smoke at start up than with k1, and the additive makes sure the wick is not screwed up. One point though, I believe the small amount of smoke that did come up was more dense, and it left a little on the top of the heater, maybe more inside,...bummer, but it can be used, and I suppose I could use more additive or use the k1 kerosene additive as well or just the k1 additive. I was using electricity recently, thought winter was over, haha, then the snow started on the Oregon coast, plenty of freezing weather. Frankly, I like that diesel has no color additive that I knew was a wick clogger if not careful. i I cannot smell anything different using diesel, almost seems less stinky, and I think that the soot on the top and on the inside is cause diesel is thicker, and I could treat the heck out of diesel with additives, .....more additives. Seefoam additive isn't exactly cheap though, I think its over ten dollars a bottle, but might be cheaper than k1 additive even if I used two ounces of additive per gallon instead of one ounce per gallon. I will experiment, when I turn it off, I will wipe the soot off the top that formed, put in a little put in some k1 additive I have left into the tank of the heater. I inspected the wick this morning, I had let the diesel heater burn off all its fuel and shut itself off this morning,...with the window opened a crack in the other room, and the wick was clean as a whistle, no carbon or anything bad to report.....I have run the wick dry a number of times since when I had clogged the wick after only 12 gallons of untreated k1 kerosene, ....when it didn't even want to light, and when I put additive in the fuel, let it stand for two weeks and got it started and burned it dry, the first time I had done that, and the wick has not needed replacement since. If clear kerosene was cheaply available locally like it was years ago then there wouldn't be all these problems with wicks as much. I have an outbuilding that I want to do some painting or wood refinishing projects in, even in summer, and a kero/oil heater like this could make those projects successful, so its a win win, plus I save at least something on electricity in winter, here, where winter rates can get ridiculous.
Thank you so much for posting this....just got two of these kerosene heaters....one is like new and the other needs cleaned up....both will need the wicks changed for the winter season......now I know how to do it....Thanks again and Wishing you the Best!
No problem, happy it helped.
Great instructional! I learned most (but not all) of your tips with trial and error and a lot of time I could have saved if I saw this first.
One comment: your unit looks so rusty I'm worried you could have a leak somewhere. Something to keep an eye on.
Very informative i was able to find the wick at Home Depot and the only problem i had was finding places that still carried kerosene.
There's a gas station by me that sells it, which was fortunate because the bottled stuff in the store is a rip off.
Thanks for your help! This worked on Kerosun 105M also.
Nice!
This was so very helpful.love how well you explain and great video to actually see.as you go along!! Thank you again very much!!❤😅
Thanks! Happy it helped!
Thanks for your video. I have an older Kerosun a bigger model like the one you replaced the wick with three tabs. Mine has the tabs and have been struggling to get the new wick installed. I’ll try your installation tips to see if I can getRdone. I occasionally use heat in the greenhouse ( 6ply poly & tube frame) to keep the snow from building up where I can’t reach with a push broom to rake off. I have a couple of propane heaters like Mr heater three burner that sits on a bottle and you get instant heat but would like to have more than one option. Propane is now much cheaper than kerosene but still want the Kerosun up & running
I really liked this heater because it was very quiet. The main downsides were sourcing kerosene, and then smelling like it all winter haha.
@@HoneyBadgerWoodWorks I tried again yesterday still no luck with the wick. Like playing whack a mole keeping all three pins in place. Almost had in on the first try. Those little prongs could be longer.
i have one like yours but a later model the trick about hold wick nob is priceless.
I think that seems to be my problem as well. No other video mentions anything about holding that knob. I've been working on mine for three days now. I think you all have settled it for me with the info about the knob. So THANKS TO ALL.
@@brianb.4776 i am happy for ya my brother.
Thank you lady you did good I got same one can't get those pins in I'm gonna ty again 3rd time hope is a charm
Great instructional video. Thanks.
Great job
Thanks for this video! I'm putting a curb rescue heater back together and the wick was being kind of finicky. It didn't want to retract right and I had it installed correctly but I think the wick holder was very slightly tilted so there was drag on the wick against the center tube. I was trying the safety retract before I put the wing nuts back on and once it was fully seated it worked fine.
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It sounds like you've only had these two? Keep an eye out for a smaller 10,000BTU model. They burn about 10-12 hours on a gallon and are perfect for keeping a garage/shop from getting too cold overnight for not much fuel cost. I also really like the antique Perfection "500" type. In the winter if I'm going to be home I let the furnace run in the morning to get it up to about 65 and then run a Perfection to keep it at 62-67 all day on about a half gallon of fuel. The only problem with the antique ones is that you can't let them run out of fuel or you'll burn up about 1/3 of the wick. They also don't have an automatic extinguisher but for me that's not a problem.
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If you can get it locally at the pump try to burn the clear kerosene instead of the dyed. Your wicks will last longer. Good wicks are important, too. A lot of the Keroworld and similar branded ones you find online at at hardware stores aren't the best. For the past 5 years or so I've been buying all mine from a guy names Miles Stair and they've all been great. (www.milesstair.com) His site also has a huge amount of information and he's answered a few questions via email very quickly.
I actually only used the kerosene for only a year. There were only two stations near me that sold kerosene. One of them the pump has been out of order for years, and the other one half the time I went there the pump was broken. I now have a propane heater which has it's pros and cons, but can easily find a place to fill the tanks for 10.00 each. I preferred the kerosene because it's so much quieter, but just can't source the fuel.
@@HoneyBadgerWoodWorks That's a shame about the fuel. Fuel Oil is the most common heating fuel around here and most of the distributors also have Kero. I've got an outside tank for a built-in wall heater in the garage but most gas stations, or at least 2/3 of them, have dyed or K-1 at the pump.
Thankfully, because I only like to burn K-1 in the house.
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I hope the propane is keeping your fingers warm!
Yeah I liked the heaters so it was a bum that the fuel was hard to source. The propane heater works well, but it burns through fuel much faster. Luckily, like last year the winter has been very mild so I'm not too frozen hahaha.
Yes miles stair is great good merchandise and good prices
Thanks for the informative video that saved me a lot of time and hassle 👍
I want to add in due to my reply the other day about using diesel, to where I don't recommend using diesel for two reasons, one where the diesel treated seems to soot up too bad, and two I suspect mine created more carbon monoxide, cause a co detector I had in a closet away from the regular areas once I figured out k1 was safe, it went off, several times, ...maybe it was that I didn't have enough of a window cracked, unsure, or the wick seemed to be clogging up and burning low after only two tanks worth, so I deem it too unsafe for my conditions, maybe if I used the k1 additive that this would not have happened, so if you do, be careful if you use diesel with seefoam fuel treatment. I am gonna burn the rest off in my out building to dry it out more, and put the rest of the diesel in my diesel truck. Plus the soot it produced, its gotten black inside on the upper wall. I think what happened is that I should have put little amounts in just enough that it would burn off, like I had did several times when it burned out and cleaned the wick well, but later when I did not, the flame started getting lower, ...clogged, that is incomplete combustion that creates carbon monoxide.
Yeah I would be careful about using the diesel I have heard across the board it isn't very safe. It would be so convenient though Kerosene (minus the really expensive clear stuff they sell at Lowes) is hard to find around me. There is only one place that is close by and I actually went there the other day and the guy who runs the shop was out so I have been working without it for the past few days. We have been having odd weather spikes out here as well. Will be in the 50s for a few days (which is beyond seasonably warm) then a couple weeks ago it was in the teens and I couldn't get the shop above 35 degrees even with both heaters going. Looks like the next few days I can work without them, then it gets back into the 30s. Luckily, I don't have to worry about Co2 my shop is so drafty nothing stays around for too long.
Thanks I could not of done this without watching this video.
Good explanation. Thank you!
Great job..... Going to be doing this tomorrow, thanks for the tips and tricks.
How did it go?
@@HoneyBadgerWoodWorks the heater was to far gone, I had gotten it second hand, it was to rusted out and not really safe to use, the knob mechanism fell apart, from age, but I bought a new one, and thanks to your video when the wick needs replaced, I know how, thank you.
Nice work!
Just an observation, but it looks as though you're burning dyed fuel. Clear 1-K kerosene will make your wicks last longer. (I've also heard dyed fuel produces more fumes as well, but that's debatable) My 23DK actually specifies to use only "water-clear" K1 kerosene.
Yeah this is dyed stuff, the clear stuff around here is like 5x the price. But, you are right that it is better for the heater. I won't have to worry about it this year because the only two places near me with kerosene no longer sell it so I'm switching to propane this year haha.
@@HoneyBadgerWoodWorks ah, I understand in that case. Clear around here is around 3.50 or so per gallon.
Yeah, that's about how much the dyed stuff is here, filling up my 5 gallon container was always a little over 15.00. The only place I have seen clear by me is in the big box stores, and that was 25.00 for a 2.5 gallon container which is just robbery. Even though this heater worked great not going to miss the hassle of finding kerosene. Propane is available all over.
If you don't mind me asking what is the part number for the wick, for the Corona 23 DK? I was just gifted one from my father in law and he has no clue how to replace the wick or even where to buy the wick
I bought this from KeroWorld. If I remember correctly they have a comprehensive chart on their website with models and numbers associated with all kerosene heaters so you order the right one. Mine was model number 28033.
I have the DK17 which is the little brother of the DK-23 Im prob going to have to replace the wick sooner or later since i bought the heater used.Would you know if changing the wick on the DK-17 is exactly the same process i.e. lining up those tabs?
I honestly do not.
@@HoneyBadgerWoodWorks thanks anyway
Since both units are almost the same, does the Kera Sun wick fit the Corona DK-23 unit
I can only speak for the model heater in the video and the wick I used with it. Can’t remember the brand of that to be honest.
The inner ring comes out, then you put wick into it and then inserts the wick and the ring together
Thank you!!!
Agradecere qué el instructivo sé aga en castellano, con el fin de seguir los comentarios
Couldn’t you just use a c clamp or bar clamp to keep the tip safety in place?
Hola, donde puedo comprar la mecha? Gracias
I had to special order mine from www.kerosene-wicks.com/
What about if theres issues putting the top back on?
Which part, the cage or the big cylinder?
Please do you have link for wick , i have corona sl 66
I bought this from Kero-World ( I think that was the name) they have a wide variety of wicks.
I REALLY hope that's not what you keep it sitting on while it's running with the Jerry can right next to it...surrounded by all kinds of VERY flammable things...craziness what people don't think about,whether it has a safety mechanism or not...why run the risk
I have same old model corona I see every thing you see but don't see holes I raise it up no holes can't find hole please help me no holes
send me a picture of yours and maybe I can help. honeybadgerwoodworksllc@gmail.com
how long will a wick last pls?
It really depends on how much you use it. They recommend changing it every season, but I don't.
Maybe post where to get the wick?
I have all that info in the beginning of the video with the store and model number, but I added links to the description.
I took the cage off too. 😫 I can't get the wic to raise.
If any part of that knob/spring is broken it won't raise the wick.
White kerosene works best, it's all I use.
I switched to Propane this year so I don't buy the kerosene anymore. I know the white stuff is the best, but by me it is 25.00 dollars for 2.5 gallons. Whereas I could fill a 5 gallon container for about 17.00 of the tinted, and had no problems with it for one season.
Coruna rote Tate knob no holes no where
You don't need to put that on that pedestal like that it will fall
It's screwed down. Used it all last year, never fell. Don't even think it thought about falling over.
Have you ever heard of incorrectly pinned wicks?
Negative.
@@HoneyBadgerWoodWorks I tried three wicks in my dura heat. They're all at least 6mm higher than what's recommended. The result is extremely high flames even on low. Any suggestions what could be wrong? I tried talking to manufacturer but they were no help.
@@peterbugarchich404 Is it the right fit for your model. I know with mine especially since it is older it was a little hard to find a replacement and I almost accidentally bought the wrong one the first time around. It's it a pinned or unpinned wick. The unpinned ones can be adjusted up and down for the right height.
@@HoneyBadgerWoodWorks Much appreciated your answers. It's the right wick, three pins. it's even listed in the manual. DH 145 I installed the new one and it never sets at 3/8 as described in the manual. It's at 1/2 or slightly higher no matter what I do. I could not imagine that extra 1/8 in height would make such a big difference. I have been thinking about drilling new pin holes in a wick sleeve so it can go lower. I am getting close to tossing the whole thing into the recycle bin
a lot of excuse making talk and hand gestures an NO instruction on just HOW... skip it.