How Climbing Routes Are Set: Interview with Team USA Chief Route Setter Mike Bockino

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  • เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 พ.ย. 2024

ความคิดเห็น • 7

  • @glugglugington3196
    @glugglugington3196 3 ปีที่แล้ว +4

    The fact you take the time to find such interesting interviews and put it all into a well presented video, asking great questions. I don't understand how you don't have more likes on your vids. Well done!

  • @michaelreyenga254
    @michaelreyenga254 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    super weird background music
    cool info tho

  • @Jeremy-uw1np
    @Jeremy-uw1np 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    I wish more setters had your felicity on dinos. I feel like once the grades get into mid 11’s most climbs have moves just out of my reach without jumping, oh ya I’m 5’6”.

    • @kylenakamura4353
      @kylenakamura4353 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      That's because gym setters don't have the time or patience to take height into account for every single route. I wish they did, too, since I'm 5'5" :(

    • @theunaphotobomber
      @theunaphotobomber 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@kylenakamura4353 @5124jeremy a lot of the best boulderers in the world are yall's height. Maybe you both just need to work with what you have and stop focusing on what you can't control.

    • @kylenakamura4353
      @kylenakamura4353 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@theunaphotobomber That's an absurd comparison to make. Like some V4's are borderline impossible for me due to height, but that doesn't mean it's impossible for someone who is infinitely stronger and more flexible than the average V4 climber. Ashima is shorter than me but she's so strong she could do any V4 just by crimping on the foot holds or something crazy like that.

    • @theunaphotobomber
      @theunaphotobomber 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      @@kylenakamura4353 it's not really an absurd comparison to make at all. In this interview, Mike even acknowledges that climbing is inherently unfair and subjective. Nature doesn't "set fair climbs", so it's really odd that climbing gym members expect *everything* in their gyms to be fair for their individual body morphology as well. Maybe the setters in your gym have a bad habit of setting a bunch of V4 dynos or something, but so long as the offering of climbs is diverse enough that everyone can find climbs that suit their level of skill and body type, then they're doing their job well. Maybe that's not the case at your gym, but speaking as a setter I will say the most common excuse code I hear is "I'm too short for that move wahhh D:" In the past it's even been about a climb that our shortest setter foreran to completion (she's 5'2"). As an example, Michaela Kiersch didn't just give up on The Golden Ticket because she had to do an all out dyno on it. She worked with what she had and got the first female ascent of that route. 5'6" isn't even that short, my friend. All I'm trying to suggest is that if you spend your entire climbing experience complaining about what you can't do or what you don't have in your toolbox, you're not gonna have fun. And with that, I vow to never again effortpost on TH-cam (a lie, probably).