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Butterfly style slingshot shooting
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 พ.ค. 2021
- Shooting slingshots with the maximum extension - a full drawlength - is termed Butterfly style. It offers potential for more power and speed, or much less draw weight, depending on the band selection. This style is compatible with conventional slingshots, the narrow pickle-fork-shooters (PFS), and even frameless shooting. Two keys: master your pouch release, and never adjust your pouch/ammo grip when it is behind your head and under tension.
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Good video Ray.
Glad you liked it, Bone!
Trying to pave the way for some of those eager to try this style! They can learn a lot from your vids!
@@rayrowden2790 we all have something to offer. It's good to see others talk about it.
Butterfly style is a little bit like pickle fork shooting. It is a challenging skill, but when you learn it, it is gratifying to do. I do every style I can learn, just for the experience. (What you referring to, the pouch hitting you from the back, is the "butterfly kiss".)
Yes, I suppose so. With the pickle fork, the shooter has to overcome the concern that the ammo will hit the hand. With butterfly, the shooter has to overcome the concern the ammo will hit the face. Both are big leaps of faith in skill.
Nice short sir.
Thanks for watching. I appreciate the comment, too!
Thanks Ray! Been shooting slingshots for a long time now with a partial butterfly and floating anchor but haven’t tried full butterfly for some reason. Might have to give it a go. :)
You're welcome. Thanks you for checking out the vid. I've enjoyed many of yours!
My ear would end up in the catch box 👍
Eh? I can't hear on that side, my ear is in the catch box! LOL!
Thanks for stopping by. I appreciate your shooting vids!
When I discovered your videos, the itch to learn how to butterfly sparked.
I've been hitting some of my frames but, I'm getting there, the powerful sound of the target being hit is well worth it!
I do prefer to shoot full butter fly with tubes, I don't know what but it feels better than flats for me, 1632 sure is my favorite!
Excellent video!
I've noticed that you twist the pouch a bit. Can you make a close up on the testing action some other time?
Thanks for the very nice comments, Jose! I do twist the pouch, mostly because I like having my thumb toward my face. I also use the tiniest bit of thumb pressure on the ammo to give me confidence the ammo will go around my face and over my forks.
@@rayrowden2790 thanks for the tips Ray!, I've been curious to shoot with thumb down, I shoot palm up like this guy Alvaro, I've found it's the easiest for me.
Just got back from a hike where I smashed nine bottles full butter at aprox 23-25 paces... I feel so acomplished hehe... Now to reduce the amount of fork hits when using pfs, lol
Darn, you missed the ice cream truck.
Quá hay bác ơi... I from viet nam
sir,are you using tube band?
Most most my slingshots have flatbands on them. But I do use tubes for frameless shooting and many natural forks. I have a lot of experience with both. I enjoy good performance and great durability of the tubes. I plan to continue using them in addition to the flat bands.
Can't see the point. I've shot hundreds of quarry animals dead without needing to do that. It's just sacrificing accuracy for power and a higher risk of smashing your hand up. I'll stick to what works for me thanks.
LOL! You are a card, Ken. You can rest assured that I am not sacrificing accuracy with my Butterfly shooting. I'm no better shooting short draw. And power depends on my bands/tubes. The longer draw does give me the option of equal or more power with less draw weight. But you do you, buddy.
@@rayrowden2790 not knocking it Ray, whatever suits you sir, and nice shooting.
Good morning. I've been learning a floating draw, although not full extension like you (40-45 inch draw). Until now I've shot 0.7 flats in short draw and optimized for 3/8 and 7/16 steel. Needless to say, way too stiff for long draw. I can pull them, but my muscles shake and my hit rate is terrible. I happened to find a pair of 0.5mm flats in my slinging supplies. I set them up and was consistently smashing the target and I'd say the speed was on par or even faster than short draw and heavy rubber. I want to switch to 1/4 inch ammo and I currently have a bunch 2040 tube. In your opinion, is 2040 too stiff for quarter inch? It weighs 1.1 grams or the same as 3/8th clay shot. Thanks much 👍
Thanks for checking out the video and commenting!
I was shooting the small clay earlier this morning using my frameless setup with 2mm round tying latex. I started using it for BBs, but found it works well for 1/4-inch steel and 9-10mm clay ammo also. Most setups that work for .177 steel are like that.
I think the 2040 tubes are overpowered for this light ammo - especially with a longer draw. The 1632 tubes would be a better fit. I've found flat latex in the .50 to .70mm range cut to 1/4-inch (6-7mm) straight are also good for this light ammo and longer draws. Here's a video of me shooting the 2mm solid round latex with a draw similar to yours, I think. th-cam.com/video/686rbeFkgYs/w-d-xo.html
Good luck and good shooting!
@@rayrowden2790 Oh ok. The flat 0.5 mm in 12-18 I mentioned is listed as suitable for 8 mm. The same supplier has bands for BB's in 0.4, can't remember the taper. So I'll probably get the best speed from the 0.4 and a lot less recoil to boot. I'm going this route for bird hunting. I recently watched a bird fly away from a 3/8th steel at less than 30 ft, short draw and 0.7 bands. I'm guessing around 200 fps. My air rifle throwing a pellet weighing a third of a gram or ten times less than 3/8th would have done the job at 500 fps and possibly passed right through. My thinking is getting tiny ammo moving really fast would penetrate better and not rely on blunt force, which the bird was able to shrug off. I've seen quarter inch go through one side of a soup can with ease, so I'm pretty sure my reasoning is solid. It's simply a matter of the best bands. I was going to buy the flats in quantity, but I think I'll get one of each and see what works best before I commit significant dollars. Thanks much!👍
@@forksandspoons7272 No doubt the 12-18 taper in .50mm is good for 5/16-inch ammo. I think it works best with short draws. With a longer draw, narrower cuts can be used. My recommendations are probably on the light end, your supplier probably on the heavier end. They both should work with a little fiddling with the length of the band to fine tune the snappiness.
@@rayrowden2790 If I was to cut my own bands, what thickness and taper would you recommend for 1/4 inch.
You are correct about the suppliers recommendation being a bit stiff. I just compared their recommended 0.7mm 22-15 taper to their 0.6mm in 20 mm straight cut, both shooting 3/8. No recoil with the 0.6 mm and sore fingers from the 0.7mm. I have no way to accurately judge speed, but the smack from the target was equally loud. I tried a 5/8th marble (same weight as 7/16 steel) from the 0.7 mm and no recoil.
@@forksandspoons7272 Considering your draw length, and if you have some of the .7 I might start with a 10-inch active length (plus material to tie at the pouch and fork) of it cut straight at 8 to 10mm. If you need more speed, trim it down an inch, or even two if that isn't giving you wicked hand slap. If that puts you in the ball park, you might try a taper, maybe a mm wider at the fork and a mm narrower at the pouch. I would use the same size down to .60mm. Add a mm of width for .40 or .50. A little experimentation is usually needed to account for individual style and preference.