A very smart machine. One can always expect that some adjustments may be required after a rebuild. However, once fully dialed in, I'm sure it will provide many more miles of comfortable, reliable and stylish riding. As you mention, these bikes are generally geared rather high as standard. A larger rear sprocket would certainly make it a little more user friendly. Jolly well done, it's always great to see these kind of bikes back on the road. All the best
Thank you! Yes, I would definitely ease the gearing if I was going to be riding this myself. Do you know what's the biggest size that can still fit in the chaincase?
@@RichsRidesandRestorations I think a 22 tooth sprocket is a safe bet for clearances. You could probably go higher, but the difference between ratios becomes a bit extreme.
Thanks! When Chris was watching the video back he said the bike looked much faster on video than it felt while riding it - I guess because of the very upright and relaxed position.
Looks really nice, just need to get some lights on it to make use of that dynamo, a nice old saddle bag to carry stuff and a period bell. I would probably also put a 21 or 22 tooth sprocket on it. I would definitely ride it!
Thank you! I've actually got some more modern Dutch-style lights, powered by a bottle dynamo which might look ok on it if I can rewire them to use the hub dynamo instead.
@@RichsRidesandRestorations Should be straight forward, don't know the spec for old hub dynamos but I would expect it to be much the same as a bottle type (6V 3W).
Mine is 46 - 19. I thought it was too high geared from day one ..... But thought I would stick with it...... I now think it's ok as long as not too hilly.
The front peak of the front mudguard is bent to one side (and squished to make it look pointier, as was the fashion back in the day). I’ve not risked rewidening it out in case it splits!
I hope you enjoy this video - if you want to catch up on previous episodes then check out the links in the video description to the full playlist!
Do you know what size the bearings are in the forks? I have the same bike I'm trying to build
I've just aquired a 1963 model. I'm finding your videos very useful. Thanks.
Thank you for watching and for commenting! I’m glad that they’re helpful to you 😄
Feel free to ask me any questions about the videos or the bike!
A very smart machine. One can always expect that some adjustments may be required after a rebuild. However, once fully dialed in, I'm sure it will provide many more miles of comfortable, reliable and stylish riding. As you mention, these bikes are generally geared rather high as standard. A larger rear sprocket would certainly make it a little more user friendly.
Jolly well done, it's always great to see these kind of bikes back on the road.
All the best
Thank you! Yes, I would definitely ease the gearing if I was going to be riding this myself. Do you know what's the biggest size that can still fit in the chaincase?
@@RichsRidesandRestorations
I think a 22 tooth sprocket is a safe bet for clearances. You could probably go higher, but the difference between ratios becomes a bit extreme.
Bravo, job well done and the bike just oozes style and elegance. Speed is definitely not everything.
Thanks! When Chris was watching the video back he said the bike looked much faster on video than it felt while riding it - I guess because of the very upright and relaxed position.
Super job
Thanks, I’m glad you enjoyed it ☺️
Looks really nice, just need to get some lights on it to make use of that dynamo, a nice old saddle bag to carry stuff and a period bell. I would probably also put a 21 or 22 tooth sprocket on it. I would definitely ride it!
Thank you! I've actually got some more modern Dutch-style lights, powered by a bottle dynamo which might look ok on it if I can rewire them to use the hub dynamo instead.
@@RichsRidesandRestorations Should be straight forward, don't know the spec for old hub dynamos but I would expect it to be much the same as a bottle type (6V 3W).
Mine is 46 - 19.
I thought it was too high geared from day one ..... But thought I would stick with it...... I now think it's ok as long as not too hilly.
Front wheel or fender off center.😊
The front peak of the front mudguard is bent to one side (and squished to make it look pointier, as was the fashion back in the day). I’ve not risked rewidening it out in case it splits!
You wouldn't carry it very far, I've tried. So lock it with wheel NOT straight.