My house was also built in 1952. My floors look Identical to your before photos less the glue. Now I'm seriously considering doing this renovation myself!
@@ming6856My house was built in 1940 as well but it has the cherrywood color floors, which I absolutely want to restore! My parents suggested having vinyl or linoleum floors put on top of it if it’s too much to repair but I really would love to try since it’s so beautiful
Had a company give me and my wife a quote of 4,5000 and change to do our downstairs and upstairs hallway and bedrooms.Much like yourself we live in a older historic home and we have plenty of work the home needs so to save money so it can be put towards other projects were thinking of just doing a screen and recoat ourselves.Great how to video and your floors turned out really nice also.
Good tip on turning off the air. Not only for the floor but for your air system itself. I work commercial construction and did a job where they sanded floors like this and they didn’t turn off the system and it clogged with sawdust and ruined the systems in there
Best video I’ve found on TH-cam for a beginner such as myself! Thank you so much and thank you for basically taking the time to answer everyone’s questions even the silly ones that asked about how you saved $4k, where you got the equipment, etc. Plus, you have the chapters with the timestamp breaking down every step and the cost. Fantastic video and thanks again!! New subscriber here!
Excellent video; thank you. Recently purchased a 1950s house in West Vancouver, BC. We just peeled up some ancient w2w. I think we're looking with cedar here. But I just want to salute you and your comment section. I bet many of you are young w limited budgets, et c. and you are so wise to embrace the original, natural materials. There is no substitute for wood in the form of laminate, manufactured or that god-awful toxic LVP junk. Not only is actual WOOD better for your health and that of your kids, pets, et c., it lends an atmosphere, and ambience - even a fragrance -to your home that LVP will never. (That floor is gorgeous.) We need to work with what we have because it keeps the cash in our pockets and nothing today that is cheaply made and mass-produced comes close to what you will have when you restore, upcycle, reuse and repurpose. Same goes for your windows. The industry wants you shelling out money at every turn.
One reason hardwood floors were covered up with carpet was due to maintenance. Poly coats (or other clear coasts) were not used, and I remember my mother stripping and WAXING the floors weekly or bi-weekly. A lot of work. Vacuuming was easier.
That was the same as my quote! I'm renting a sander this Friday and starting the sanding myself. I'm planning on spending the whole weekend to do it. Thank you for your video.
Nice work. Floors turned out beautiful. Yeah, it's a lot of hard work, but man is it worth it to save so much money! Just got a quote for $7,200 to refinish my maple floors and I'm going to do it myself for about $1,300 when it's all said and done.
Just a heads up. Maple floors are very dense. You will have to go the extra mile on your finish sanding. I refinish for a living and maple floors are always some of the worst to refinish. They also don’t take stain well unless you waterpop the floor prior to staining. Just take your time and really look things over before finishing.
I did it in one of my rental properties when I first started buying properties . It’s very time consuming but not hard. Believe me I’m not a handy man at all.
I have watched quite a few videos on this process, and thank you for the detailed explanation on sanding diagonally. I also don't want to add a stain to mine and just do the satin finish. THANK YOU!
My house was built in ‘53 and the varnish has turned orange. Oof! We had my mom’s room done and stained a medium pecan color and sealed with a more dull sheen, not lacquer shiny. It turned out gorgeous.
When I prepped for sanding I first removed all glue and crusty finish. I used only 1 drum sandpaper of each paper. That saved. Ne a ton but took forever on hands and knees
This Beginner Guide to Refinishing Hardwood Floors helps you achieve professional results on a budget with clear, step-by-step instructions. Perfect for DIY novices!❣
The square buff is a finish sander. You cannot refinish your floors with it. I know people do all the time but it is not the correct way to go about it. I refinish floors for a living and I would not waste the time or money trying the buffer. No matter the shape of the floors if you are refinishing you need to use a drum
@@nicholastoel729 If the floors only need the slightest work, a drum isn’t necessary. I understand how and why you choose to always use a drum in your business, but if we’re talking about “necessary”, the drum sander isn’t necessary for the lightest of work, and a DIYer could really screw up their floors with a drum. I’m not saying any of this for myself, but speaking from the professionals I have discussed with, as well as professionals that post on TH-cam.
@@agentalexcamp I guess if you’re ok with that diy look in the end then yes it’s fine. However in my opinion it never looks anything close to a full sand job which if you’re looking to refinish your floors to achieve a new look it would be imperative to drum sand.
@@nicholastoel729 once again I’m not speaking from myself. I’m speaking from professionals that I’ve discussed with. The difference in full refinishing and just fixing light scuffs/scratches.
I grew up in a 1903 house with pine floors. We had dark blue carpeting everywhere (came with the house) till I was 18 then took up the carpeting and the floors were in great shape to we didn't refinish them. They needed refinishing by the time we moved around 14 years later. Pine doesn't hold up well. Pretty though.
Because they had to strip, wax and buff hardwood floors prior to polyurethane. I watched my grandmother and great aunt do this and it was an all day job!
Great looking final product. Water products tend to "raise the whiskers" on sanded wood projects, but I'm wondering if it would be worth going over it with water and buffing it prior to the first coat of finish? Hope the rest of the project went well!
Great job and tips. Going to do a couple rooms after having much of the house professionally done a year ago. Worst part by Far was the smell and if course it was hot and humid out so windows shut. Hotel for 4 days. I'm going to buff a small area and see how a 100 grit looks.
Refinishing floor in 2024 in Illinois costs about $2.50sf. including 2 coats varnish and extra $1.20sf. for stain color. However if the floor is less than 300sf. flooring company will charge you extra. Tip. if you use water based finish you should use sealer first than minimum 2 coats water based finish.
Quick Question: How Many different sanding belts were needed for each grit? Wondering how often you changed the rolls for the entire home? Also: Do you have an alternative for the edge sander? I cannot find one for rent anywhere close by. Would an orbital sander work for this?
I don’t remember exactly how many, but the first passes took more because you’re trying to get the floor flat, and in my case, getting the carpet glue off also. What I did was just get more than I needed, and returned the ones I didn’t use. I don’t think it would be impossible to use an orbital sander for the edges, but it would take a lot more work
Nice and helpfull video! One small thing (and I'm not speaking from experience): I see many professionals coating the floor against the grain (sideways) first and then finishing that coat rolling with the grain. Seems like you might get an even better finish that way.
We’re in the process of doing the same in a house built in the 60s. The padding is really stuck down to the hardwood in spots. We’re getting the majority but there’s still some that just won’t scrape up. Any suggestions? Will the sander take it off? Or is that not recommended? Great job by the way.
36, 60, opp diag, 80, parallel, finish sander 100, sweep and clean dust, clear matte finish foam brush for corners, 3/16th in. nap for main 1-2 feet at a time bcus fast dry, finish sander buffing pad, vaccuum, second coat, maybe 3rd
@@agentalexcampDidnt expect you to reply on a year old vid, I'm gonna start refinishing my floors and this video has been by far the most helpful on youtube. I was writing down all the steps lol
@@dudumoomoo this wouldn’t be a good representation because I’m only showing 1 room, but I did my whole house. It took me about a week to do all of the hardwood in my house. For 2 rooms you could probably do all of sanding in a couple days, and the sealer/stain in 1-2 days. Wait until it’s a little cooler outside because you will need to turn off you air conditioning while you do this
Thank you! Would be hard to know how long just that room took, because I did most of the house, and only filmed this room. If I was just doing this room, I’d say I could get all of the sanding done in 1 day, and get all of the stain/sealing done in 1-2 days depending on dry times, whether you’re using water based or oil based.
My house was built in 1899 but recently done up before we bought it... I don't know why anyone would choose carpet over nice wooden floors but that's what we got. Considering trying this myself
Wow. Finished project is gorgeous!! Im moving into my grams old apt, and they never took care of the floors. Clearly barely even mopped. I need to rent a sander but the Home Depots near me never have one available to rent. Im going to have to move in with these lousy floors :(
I would say move everything to one side of the apartment, do the other side, and then vice versa, but that is definitely not going to be fun! Luckily, a small part of our house wasn’t hardwood, so we just lived in that area while I did the floors. Goodluck!
I have parquet flooring in my new house but the previous owner didn't like it so he applied many layers of stain to hide the parquet making the floor look painted. I considered attempting to refinish it myself since I don't like the current look and he did a poor job. Do you think this process could work to remove stain that has been applied so heavily?
Sorry, just now seeing this. I rented the sander from Home Depot. The sanding sheets you have to buy separate, but they should be in the same area of the store.
Looks great. I might have missed it, but how long did the sanding process take from start to finish with all the different grits? Looking to refinish about 800 square feet (first timer) and I'm wondering if a one-day rental would be enough time to get both types of sanders in the same day.
It took me like a week to do the whole house (about 1,200 sq feet of hardwood). My floors were 70 years old and needed a lot of work. The video is sped up, but you have to go slow with the drum sander. Also, you’re going to have to rent both the drum sander and edger at the same time, because you cant do all of your grits with the drum sander and then go back and do all of your grits on the edges. You have to do your grits together before moving onto the next grit. After you’ve done all that, you can take those back and then get the buffer to do the final pass.
@@agentalexcamp No it's not! Oil based finish: each coat dries 12h. they yellow and they are easiest for scratching. But they are the cheapest and the easiest to apply.
Please help! How do you we keep the roller from leaving tiny bubbles in the finish? We're having a tough time. My wife and I did a great job on stripping the floor to the bare wood BUT cannot get the sealer go on evenly. If we do, we have bubbles. The floor is splotchy right now. I have to re-rent a floor machine to sand the finish coat back off.
What kinda roller are you using? Also, you have to keep moving along with the roller. As it’s drying, you can’t get bothered by how it looks and roll back over it because that’s going to mess it up.
@@agentalexcamp, I used a 1/4" roller and later a sheep wool roller. Both left bubbles. I appreciate the advice about keeping moving. Am I messing up by treating sealing the floor like when I paint walls?
@@terrymofmich I just went a few boards at a time and went all the way to the other side of the room. A lot of people, including myself, think they missed a spot or it looks bad as we’re going, so we roll the roller back over it real quick, which ends up messing it up. Just gotta trust it and let it dry, and do multiple coats so it evens out. Stirring your sealer too fast could also trap air bubbles also.
The drum sander is aggressive but if you start with a higher grain you can get used to the machine's power before getting down to business with something like 36 or 60
What are you using to remove the carpet glue, shellac, etc? I have hardwood floors from 1951 and can tell from a little bit of sanding there was an oil based stain + shellac still on the floor. Not sure the best way to get this off to start the sanding.
I just used the drum sander. My floors were in rough enough shape that I was starting with a very low grit anyways, so that removed the carpet glue with the top layer.
Thanks! Definitely simple, but definitely hard work also, especially the edges! I believe it took me about a week or so to do the whole house, and that includes dry times with the sealer and all that.
It's a simple process, but physically hard on your body. Wrestling the drum sander takes muscle. Sanding the edges kills your knees. Staining and wiping stain means crawling every inch of the floor with a rag in your hand.
@@agentalexcamp No, but I've refinished lots of hardwood. It's a very PHYSICAL DIY project. So you either have to hire the young and muscular or spread it out over time so you don't end up with $3K of massage therapy bills.
@@lazygardens 1: You don’t have to spread it with a rag. 2: Why are you commenting to people on my video, without even watching the video? Do you just scroll through TH-cam and click on videos just to go down to the comments and start answering people? lol
@@agentalexcamp Got it! I looked up the product you used. Another video someone used a sealer and then a finishing product after that. I want my floors like yours so I am going the way you did with it. Thanks a bunch!
@@meganmcnally1296 it lasted quite a while, and everyone will be different based on how bad there floors are, if they’re covered in carpet glue, etc. The best thing to do is buy more than you need and return what you don’t end up needing.
You mention that the drum sander could harm the floors. What exactly would the harm be? I bought an old farm house and like you said they covered the wood floors with carpet. I would like to refinish the hardwood floors but messing them up is my biggest fear!
This is the best way I can use text to give you a visual: instead of the sandpaper being on a flat disc that slides around on the floor, the drum sander has sandpaper in the shape of a tube, that you slide onto the drum, and the heavy drum rotates like a wheel on a car. Because of this, if it stays in one spot for even a split second, it digs into the floor, creating a gouge in the wood at that spot. So every single time you start a strip you have to ease the drum down as you’re going forward, like landing a plane, can’t stop at all for that strip, and when you get to the end of the strip you have to ease it back up like taking off in a plane. Did any of that make sense?
Everything in the video is pretty much right, only cross the floor in an angle with the drum sander ones. And the floors turn orange or yellowish because they use an oil base
How did you removed the glue? I have rooms with old carpeting that I’m looking to redo the floors but like you they glued the carpet down straight to the floor. So I’ve been searching for the best way to remove that so I can sand them down.
@@kylecakes1 yea I had to start that low to get the glue off, and also because these floors are 71 years old, so it took a more coarse grit to get them back to level. You’re welcome!
Sander with coarse grit can work, but having just done some of this, I’d warn folks that the glue will clog up the belts or sander sheets much faster. If there’s any way to get more of the glue off before sander hits, I recommend. I had some success actually using a heat gun, very carefully heating the glue and use a tapered scraper (use a file to round off the sharp corners on scraper) to remove, again very carefully to not damage the surface. Anyone dealing with old carpet glue stuck all over their hardwood, I definitely feel your pain, good luck!
My house was also built in 1952. My floors look Identical to your before photos less the glue. Now I'm seriously considering doing this renovation myself!
Go for it!!
Me too. My home was build in 1940. Same color like the before floor.
@@ming6856My house was built in 1940 as well but it has the cherrywood color floors, which I absolutely want to restore! My parents suggested having vinyl or linoleum floors put on top of it if it’s too much to repair but I really would love to try since it’s so beautiful
Had a company give me and my wife a quote of 4,5000 and change to do our downstairs and upstairs hallway and bedrooms.Much like yourself we live in a older historic home and we have plenty of work the home needs so to save money so it can be put towards other projects were thinking of just doing a screen and recoat ourselves.Great how to video and your floors turned out really nice also.
Thanks! Goodluck to y’all on yours!
Thank you and have a good day.
Good tip on turning off the air. Not only for the floor but for your air system itself. I work commercial construction and did a job where they sanded floors like this and they didn’t turn off the system and it clogged with sawdust and ruined the systems in there
Yes! Will cost you more to replace the HVAC than paying someone to do the floors!
Not all heroes wear capes - THANK YOU FOR THIS!
Best video I’ve found on TH-cam for a beginner such as myself!
Thank you so much and thank you for basically taking the time to answer everyone’s questions even the silly ones that asked about how you saved $4k, where you got the equipment, etc. Plus, you have the chapters with the timestamp breaking down every step and the cost. Fantastic video and thanks again!! New subscriber here!
@@sunshine13emu happy to help! Thanks for the support!
Excellent video; thank you. Recently purchased a 1950s house in West Vancouver, BC. We just peeled up some ancient w2w. I think we're looking with cedar here. But I just want to salute you and your comment section. I bet many of you are young w limited budgets, et c. and you are so wise to embrace the original, natural materials. There is no substitute for wood in the form of laminate, manufactured or that god-awful toxic LVP junk. Not only is actual WOOD better for your health and that of your kids, pets, et c., it lends an atmosphere, and ambience - even a fragrance -to your home that LVP will never. (That floor is gorgeous.) We need to work with what we have because it keeps the cash in our pockets and nothing today that is cheaply made and mass-produced comes close to what you will have when you restore, upcycle, reuse and repurpose. Same goes for your windows. The industry wants you shelling out money at every turn.
@@julieb7785 thank you for the kind words! Always happy to help people save money!
One reason hardwood floors were covered up with carpet was due to maintenance. Poly coats (or other clear coasts) were not used, and I remember my mother stripping and WAXING the floors weekly or bi-weekly. A lot of work. Vacuuming was easier.
Yes, and it was because carpet was the trend, just like thick curtains over the windows.
What's the name of the finisher that you put on the floors last to make them shine a little
Awesome job. You actually made it look so easy 😂
I still paste wax mine
Yup, same. Actually she had US doing it 😂😂. But then years later my Mom took the carpet up and we have the beautiful hardwood floors again.
That was the same as my quote! I'm renting a sander this Friday and starting the sanding myself. I'm planning on spending the whole weekend to do it. Thank you for your video.
Goodluck!
Great job
@@aleesheacosby8332 thanks!
Best video I've seen! I really like how you provided the visual with the red and green for the directions to sand.
Thank you! Happy to help!
Nice work. Floors turned out beautiful. Yeah, it's a lot of hard work, but man is it worth it to save so much money! Just got a quote for $7,200 to refinish my maple floors and I'm going to do it myself for about $1,300 when it's all said and done.
That’s great! It’s definitely worth it!
Just a heads up. Maple floors are very dense. You will have to go the extra mile on your finish sanding. I refinish for a living and maple floors are always some of the worst to refinish. They also don’t take stain well unless you waterpop the floor prior to staining. Just take your time and really look things over before finishing.
Man this is a great video. Packed with awesome info. This is the best step by step vid I’ve found on TH-cam for this type of project
Thanks for the support!
I did it in one of my rental properties when I first started buying properties . It’s very time consuming but not hard. Believe me I’m not a handy man at all.
It’s hard work, but it’s simple
I have watched quite a few videos on this process, and thank you for the detailed explanation on sanding diagonally. I also don't want to add a stain to mine and just do the satin finish. THANK YOU!
@@j-hoss8980 happy to help!
Really the best video I’ve seen on this process so far. Thanks for this
Glad it was helpful!
Those floors look incredible.
Thank you!
Great Video! Ive been reading and watching DIY for 3 decades. I have NEVER seen the tip of the slight angle on the first sanding.
Thank you for the informative video brother! Floors look killer!
Happy to help! Thanks!
Good stuff thanks dude!
@@AAA57A happy to help!
My house was built in ‘53 and the varnish has turned orange. Oof! We had my mom’s room done and stained a medium pecan color and sealed with a more dull sheen, not lacquer shiny. It turned out gorgeous.
That’s great!
When I prepped for sanding I first removed all glue and crusty finish. I used only 1 drum sandpaper of each paper. That saved. Ne a ton but took forever on hands and knees
@@helenachase5627 yup a lot of work!
This Beginner Guide to Refinishing Hardwood Floors helps you achieve professional results on a budget with clear, step-by-step instructions. Perfect for DIY novices!❣
Wow so many helpful tips! Thank you. I wish i could hire you though
@@dp1275 haha not for hire!
Real good work... I think I will go with the buff sander my floors are even and has scratches and scuffs but great video Alex
Thank you!
The square buff is a finish sander. You cannot refinish your floors with it. I know people do all the time but it is not the correct way to go about it. I refinish floors for a living and I would not waste the time or money trying the buffer. No matter the shape of the floors if you are refinishing you need to use a drum
@@nicholastoel729 If the floors only need the slightest work, a drum isn’t necessary. I understand how and why you choose to always use a drum in your business, but if we’re talking about “necessary”, the drum sander isn’t necessary for the lightest of work, and a DIYer could really screw up their floors with a drum. I’m not saying any of this for myself, but speaking from the professionals I have discussed with, as well as professionals that post on TH-cam.
@@agentalexcamp I guess if you’re ok with that diy look in the end then yes it’s fine. However in my opinion it never looks anything close to a full sand job which if you’re looking to refinish your floors to achieve a new look it would be imperative to drum sand.
@@nicholastoel729 once again I’m not speaking from myself. I’m speaking from professionals that I’ve discussed with. The difference in full refinishing and just fixing light scuffs/scratches.
Good stuff !
@@JimmyGarlick thanks!
Ok. Thank you. Im feeling a bit more courageous now. Great video 😊
Thank you! Happy to help!
Thinking about doing a small bedroom, so thanks for the personal experience of this process
You’re welcome!
Good Job!
Dude, this is surreal! I watched all of your videos before tackling this project! Thanks for the support!
Beautiful job! WOW! Excellent video thanks!
Thanks for the support!
THIS IS SO HELPFUL
Happy to help!
@@agentalexcamp I may have missed this, but what sealer did you use?
@@kaitlinkates6703 “Benjamin Moore Benwood Stays Clear”. I didn’t use a stain
I grew up in a 1903 house with pine floors. We had dark blue carpeting everywhere (came with the house) till I was 18 then took up the carpeting and the floors were in great shape to we didn't refinish them. They needed refinishing by the time we moved around 14 years later. Pine doesn't hold up well. Pretty though.
Hi what type of buffing pad did you use after the first coat?
Because they had to strip, wax and buff hardwood floors prior to polyurethane. I watched my grandmother and great aunt do this and it was an all day job!
Yes a lot of work!
That is very helpful. Thanks!
@@susanbarney9645 happy to help!
Great looking final product. Water products tend to "raise the whiskers" on sanded wood projects, but I'm wondering if it would be worth going over it with water and buffing it prior to the first coat of finish? Hope the rest of the project went well!
@@HammerShock23 yes that’s why I went back over it after the first coat. What you’re referring to is called “water popping” and is a common practice!
So beautiful!
Thank you!
Gorgeous floor wow. can you tell me what type of stripping you used?
@@cheech-ym7tv I didn’t use any stripping
Great job and tips. Going to do a couple rooms after having much of the house professionally done a year ago. Worst part by Far was the smell and if course it was hot and humid out so windows shut. Hotel for 4 days.
I'm going to buff a small area and see how a 100 grit looks.
Sounds good!
Great job well done! Good info 👍🏻👍🏻👏🏻
@@AfricanFlightStar glad I could be helpful!
Refinishing floor in 2024 in Illinois costs about $2.50sf. including 2 coats varnish and extra $1.20sf. for stain color. However if the floor is less than 300sf. flooring company will charge you extra. Tip. if you use water based finish you should use sealer first than minimum 2 coats water based finish.
Cool👍🏼
Nice work!
@@thetravelingtrio4544 thanks!
WHOA!!! That's an amazing transformation 😲
Thank you!
Thanks for this! I hope mine are this color underneath: love the lighter look! Great tips
Thanks! I’m sure it’ll look great!
Quick Question: How Many different sanding belts were needed for each grit? Wondering how often you changed the rolls for the entire home?
Also: Do you have an alternative for the edge sander? I cannot find one for rent anywhere close by. Would an orbital sander work for this?
I don’t remember exactly how many, but the first passes took more because you’re trying to get the floor flat, and in my case, getting the carpet glue off also. What I did was just get more than I needed, and returned the ones I didn’t use.
I don’t think it would be impossible to use an orbital sander for the edges, but it would take a lot more work
Very nice video. Thank you for taking the time to make and post. Just subscribed
Thank you! Happy to help!
This was extremely helpful my dude thank you!
Happy to help!
Thank you dude. This helped me alot!
Happy to help!
Those are some amazing results! Do you know what kind of wood that is, it's really nice!
@@tylerdorsch3158 thanks! It’s red oak!
I need to know what that edger was you were using
@@livong20 just the standard edger rental from Home Depot. Just look up floor edger
That was very detailed, thank you.
You’re welcome!
Nice and helpfull video! One small thing (and I'm not speaking from experience): I see many professionals coating the floor against the grain (sideways) first and then finishing that coat rolling with the grain. Seems like you might get an even better finish that way.
Maybe so!
Good video, concise and solid advice!
Thanks!
We’re in the process of doing the same in a house built in the 60s. The padding is really stuck down to the hardwood in spots. We’re getting the majority but there’s still some that just won’t scrape up. Any suggestions? Will the sander take it off? Or is that not recommended? Great job by the way.
@@TheK9co I wouldn’t try to remove padding with a sander. Maybe some sort of stripper to get the glue to let go?
36, 60, opp diag, 80, parallel, finish sander 100, sweep and clean dust, clear matte finish foam brush for corners, 3/16th in. nap for main 1-2 feet at a time bcus fast dry, finish sander buffing pad, vaccuum, second coat, maybe 3rd
@@dudumoomoo random comment of the day
@@agentalexcampDidnt expect you to reply on a year old vid, I'm gonna start refinishing my floors and this video has been by far the most helpful on youtube. I was writing down all the steps lol
@@dudumoomoo I gotcha. Goodluck on your floors
@@agentalexcampThanks man. I'm curious how long this whole thing took you/how fast I could do this for let's say 2 rooms?
@@dudumoomoo this wouldn’t be a good representation because I’m only showing 1 room, but I did my whole house. It took me about a week to do all of the hardwood in my house. For 2 rooms you could probably do all of sanding in a couple days, and the sealer/stain in 1-2 days. Wait until it’s a little cooler outside because you will need to turn off you air conditioning while you do this
Well done!!!! Yo8r floors look fantastic!!
Thank you!
Rugs just held a room together. They muffle and catch sounds in a hard surfaced room. Its much quieter to shuffle around on.
Great video, and thank you for the tips. How many hours total would you say that room took you, from start to finish?
Thank you! Would be hard to know how long just that room took, because I did most of the house, and only filmed this room. If I was just doing this room, I’d say I could get all of the sanding done in 1 day, and get all of the stain/sealing done in 1-2 days depending on dry times, whether you’re using water based or oil based.
Thank you, that timeline is really helpful!
My house was built in 1899 but recently done up before we bought it... I don't know why anyone would choose carpet over nice wooden floors but that's what we got. Considering trying this myself
@@Renvaar1989 goodluck!
I do floors 2, you did great jobb,
Thank you!
We have about as much as a 1/8th inch gaps between boards. Is sealing better than hammering them closer?
Enjoyed your flick and it gave me confidence
th-cam.com/users/shortsZEAQhdibR_8?si=XlirD3tihn72wp1m
This is what I did with my gaps
noooo way my friend... se saw you running oft to the nearby's and taking pictures of THEIr floor!
@@bberge306 huh?
Good looking job
Thanks!
Good video. Thanks for posting.
Happy to help!
I rented my sander on Saturday morning and returned monday at 9 am.
They only charge one day
@@helenachase5627 nice!
Wow. Finished project is gorgeous!! Im moving into my grams old apt, and they never took care of the floors. Clearly barely even mopped. I need to rent a sander but the Home Depots near me never have one available to rent. Im going to have to move in with these lousy floors :(
I would say move everything to one side of the apartment, do the other side, and then vice versa, but that is definitely not going to be fun! Luckily, a small part of our house wasn’t hardwood, so we just lived in that area while I did the floors. Goodluck!
I have parquet flooring in my new house but the previous owner didn't like it so he applied many layers of stain to hide the parquet making the floor look painted. I considered attempting to refinish it myself since I don't like the current look and he did a poor job. Do you think this process could work to remove stain that has been applied so heavily?
@@cg1492 yup should be able to sand it off. This floor was 70 year old stain and carpet glue.
Could you do a clear oil finish? Not a varnish
@@gretchenwhitford6239 I’m not sure, but I don’t see why not
Where did you get the sander? Do they include the pads or did you need to get those separate? Thanks
Sorry, just now seeing this. I rented the sander from Home Depot. The sanding sheets you have to buy separate, but they should be in the same area of the store.
What do you know about the new buffing system, out and just showing ware
Absolutely nothing lol. This was my personal home. I don’t do floors as a business
Beautiful. ..👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽
Thank you!
Looks great. I might have missed it, but how long did the sanding process take from start to finish with all the different grits? Looking to refinish about 800 square feet (first timer) and I'm wondering if a one-day rental would be enough time to get both types of sanders in the same day.
It took me like a week to do the whole house (about 1,200 sq feet of hardwood). My floors were 70 years old and needed a lot of work. The video is sped up, but you have to go slow with the drum sander.
Also, you’re going to have to rent both the drum sander and edger at the same time, because you cant do all of your grits with the drum sander and then go back and do all of your grits on the edges. You have to do your grits together before moving onto the next grit. After you’ve done all that, you can take those back and then get the buffer to do the final pass.
Thanks Alex. Planning on doing this in our kitchen. Would a water-base still be good or should I consider oil-base? Thanks for your video. Cheers.
I would think either should work, but oil based is supposedly more durable. Goodluck!
@@agentalexcamp No it's not! Oil based finish: each coat dries 12h. they yellow and they are easiest for scratching. But they are the cheapest and the easiest to apply.
You did a great job on your floors...very helpful tutorial, thank you 👍
Anything to help! Thanks for the support!
TY!!
@@marcmoon1 you’re welcome!
Please help!
How do you we keep the roller from leaving tiny bubbles in the finish? We're having a tough time. My wife and I did a great job on stripping the floor to the bare wood BUT cannot get the sealer go on evenly. If we do, we have bubbles. The floor is splotchy right now. I have to re-rent a floor machine to sand the finish coat back off.
What kinda roller are you using? Also, you have to keep moving along with the roller. As it’s drying, you can’t get bothered by how it looks and roll back over it because that’s going to mess it up.
@@agentalexcamp, I used a 1/4" roller and later a sheep wool roller. Both left bubbles.
I appreciate the advice about keeping moving. Am I messing up by treating sealing the floor like when I paint walls?
@@terrymofmich I just went a few boards at a time and went all the way to the other side of the room. A lot of people, including myself, think they missed a spot or it looks bad as we’re going, so we roll the roller back over it real quick, which ends up messing it up. Just gotta trust it and let it dry, and do multiple coats so it evens out.
Stirring your sealer too fast could also trap air bubbles also.
@@agentalexcamp, thank you !
How would you sand a herringbone/parquet wood floor?🇬🇧
You’d have to watch one of the videos on TH-cam that covers that
This was so helpful. Do you have to apply some sort of sealer after the last stain?
This actually was the sealer. It’s clear, because I wanted to keep the wood looking natural
The drum sander is aggressive but if you start with a higher grain you can get used to the machine's power before getting down to business with something like 36 or 60
@@harrythedemigod yup
Thanks for sharing and good job.
Thank you!
How many sand paper did you used in this room from each number?
@@Mayelinevlog idk, it’s been too long. I bought more than I needed, and returned the extra
How heavy or hard is the drum sander to use? Compare to a big lawnmower is it harder?
It’s not hard. It pulls itself. But you have to learn how to use it or it’ll tear up your floor
Was the stain you used a 2 in 1 staining and poly type?
Did you buffer the floor afterwards?
Nope, I didn’t stain. I just used a clear sealer because I wanted the wood to stay the light natural color
Thank you very helpful!
You’re welcome!
great video !
Thank you!
I love the floor! Thank you for this vid.
You’re welcome!
Looks great!!! Thank you for this simple and informative description!!
Where did you rent the machine from?
Weekly rental or daily?
Thanks! I rented from Home Depot! I believe I did the math and ended up doing daily rental
What are you using to remove the carpet glue, shellac, etc? I have hardwood floors from 1951 and can tell from a little bit of sanding there was an oil based stain + shellac still on the floor. Not sure the best way to get this off to start the sanding.
I just used the drum sander. My floors were in rough enough shape that I was starting with a very low grit anyways, so that removed the carpet glue with the top layer.
Did you have gaps in between some boards? Or were they all tight? I’ve got some gaps and debating adding wood filler. What are your thoughts?
I have a short on my page that directly addresses this problem!
FHA loan requirements back then specified hardwood flooring, because they were not sure that the new trendy wall to wall carpeting would last.
@@mrsandless13625 good call
Thank you for the video ! How long it took you to stain the floors?
Took about 1 day for each coat because it was most of my house.
Hey! Looks great and thanks for the warning that it is work - because it looks simple! How long did it take you start to finish? Thanks.
Thanks! Definitely simple, but definitely hard work also, especially the edges! I believe it took me about a week or so to do the whole house, and that includes dry times with the sealer and all that.
It's a simple process, but physically hard on your body. Wrestling the drum sander takes muscle. Sanding the edges kills your knees. Staining and wiping stain means crawling every inch of the floor with a rag in your hand.
@@lazygardens I’m guessing you didn’t watch the video? I didn’t stain with a rag.
@@agentalexcamp No, but I've refinished lots of hardwood. It's a very PHYSICAL DIY project.
So you either have to hire the young and muscular or spread it out over time so you don't end up with $3K of massage therapy bills.
@@lazygardens 1: You don’t have to spread it with a rag.
2: Why are you commenting to people on my video, without even watching the video? Do you just scroll through TH-cam and click on videos just to go down to the comments and start answering people? lol
What type of roller are you using to apply the stain
amzn.to/4delm6C
Looks great! I have seen so many videos and everyone tends to do things a little different..is there a reason why a sealer is not needed?
Thanks! What I used was a sealer. I didn’t stain the floor because I wanted to keep the light natural color
@@agentalexcamp Got it! I looked up the product you used. Another video someone used a sealer and then a finishing product after that. I want my floors like yours so I am going the way you did with it. Thanks a bunch!
@@christianricketts3757 happy to help! Goodluck!
How often did you switch out your sandpaper?
@@meganmcnally1296 it lasted quite a while, and everyone will be different based on how bad there floors are, if they’re covered in carpet glue, etc. The best thing to do is buy more than you need and return what you don’t end up needing.
How long did it take you from start to finish? How many people? Thanks.
Maybe a week. Just me.
You mention that the drum sander could harm the floors. What exactly would the harm be? I bought an old farm house and like you said they covered the wood floors with carpet. I would like to refinish the hardwood floors but messing them up is my biggest fear!
This is the best way I can use text to give you a visual: instead of the sandpaper being on a flat disc that slides around on the floor, the drum sander has sandpaper in the shape of a tube, that you slide onto the drum, and the heavy drum rotates like a wheel on a car.
Because of this, if it stays in one spot for even a split second, it digs into the floor, creating a gouge in the wood at that spot. So every single time you start a strip you have to ease the drum down as you’re going forward, like landing a plane, can’t stop at all for that strip, and when you get to the end of the strip you have to ease it back up like taking off in a plane. Did any of that make sense?
...mmm and no cracks or gaps that would need to be filled in in that entire room ??? You got LUCKY
@@diverdave4056 I did in another room. I have a short on how to do that also
My house is from 1940. The foundation is causing my hardwood flooring to separate.
I'm going to do what you did and see what happens.
Wish me luck!
How long did it take to complete and put furniture back on the floor?
The whole process took me about a week, but I wasn’t working on it nonstop.
Thank u for being honest up front.. Us flooring guys EARN EVERY PENNY.
And we get called in AFTER homeowners DIY and destroy their flloors.
Appreciate all of the pros🙌🏼
Everything in the video is pretty much right, only cross the floor in an angle with the drum sander ones. And the floors turn orange or yellowish because they use an oil base
Everything in the video is correct. You just repeated what I already said and did in the video.
How did you removed the glue? I have rooms with old carpeting that I’m looking to redo the floors but like you they glued the carpet down straight to the floor. So I’ve been searching for the best way to remove that so I can sand them down.
I just used the sander. Didn’t have the time or energy to try to scrape it off
@@agentalexcamp oh cool! Did you start with a 36 grit? Also, thank you for responding!
@@kylecakes1 yea I had to start that low to get the glue off, and also because these floors are 71 years old, so it took a more coarse grit to get them back to level. You’re welcome!
Sander with coarse grit can work, but having just done some of this, I’d warn folks that the glue will clog up the belts or sander sheets much faster. If there’s any way to get more of the glue off before sander hits, I recommend.
I had some success actually using a heat gun, very carefully heating the glue and use a tapered scraper (use a file to round off the sharp corners on scraper) to remove, again very carefully to not damage the surface. Anyone dealing with old carpet glue stuck all over their hardwood, I definitely feel your pain, good luck!
@@james396 yes will definitely clog up the sandpaper faster! Basically you have to decide between saving time or saving money on sandpaper!