This is a very informative video! I have a book from 1933 called "Draw Comics! -Here's How-"; That book also tells you how to prepare a new nib. It says to hold the nib under a match flame for a few seconds, Then gently rub it against a sharpening stone. My, how times have changed!
Thank you! I just got a dip pen set as a gift, and only ONE of the nibs worked. There seemed to be plenty of ink in the reservoirs of the other nibs, but it just wasn't flowing. This video is one of the first ones that popped up when I tried to figure out what was wrong, and your tips solved the problem! 😁
Many people recommend heating the nib with a flame but hitting the nib with a flame is one of the most idiotic things you can do to it. Nibs are made from spring steel, which contains between 0,5-1% carbon, so it can be hardened. That´s importtant because a nib made from mild steel would just bend and not spring back into it´s original form. To achieve that, nibs have to be heat treated. The first step is to heat the steel to around 800°C and then cooling it off quickly, for example by dropping it in oil. The steel is now very hard but very brittle. The nib would just break. That´s why there is a second step to the heat treating process, the tempering. The metal is heated up again, usually to 200-300°C, depending on the properties the final product is supposed to have. The tempering takes away a bit of the hardness but gives the steel it´s flexibility back. In order to burn off the oil from the surface you would have to get the nib way hotter than 300°C. That means the nib would be much softer than the manufacturer intended. It would not be as springy as before and it would wear out much faster. It´s a good way to ruin a nib. Boiling water on the other hand is fine because it´s only 100°C
@@LizChadertonArt I understand where you´re comming from. I too prefer not setting myself on fire, mainly because it sounds like an unpleasent experience.
Thank you -- this was VERY helpful. I've dabbled with dip nibs on and off, and have often had trouble making one write well. I was aware that they were said to be coated with oil, wax, or shellac, but I had mistakenly convinced myself that if no coating was visible, then I didn't need to worry about it. When ink wouldn't cling to the nib, I blamed it on the ink being too watery or not tenacious/viscous enough. After seeing your video (and others on this topic, though yours was the first one I came across 😉), I've started cleaning some of the vintage nibs I've collected over the years, and the results have been fantastic. You started your video by saying these were things you wish you had known when you were first getting started. I would add this - even if you can't detect a coating (and it appears that one usually can't, even on new-old-stock nibs that are decades old), you should assume it is there, and go ahead and clean or prep the nib. It's not that much effort, and if nothing else, you will have eliminated one possible source of trouble.
A good little experiment, always helpful to compare techniques. Pen companies themselves should know the best way to remove the coating they put on. I have always used a toothbrush, ordinary bath soap and the tap. Way back 25 or so years ago I used a flame but had no idea how long to do it for at first. I found out later you should re-temper the nib with an immediate dip in cold water. You only take the nib back and forth over the flame about 2-4 times once per second or so. Make sure you catch from the tip to the far end of the reservoir (the elongated hole) and do both upper and lower surfaces. So it should take no more than around 6-8 seconds in all before you dip it in the water. Don't linger over the flame; keep it moving. As you only dip deep enough to flood the reservoir there's no need to clean it much past there. Always use a well deep enough that when you dip, the reservoir hole is submerged and comes out with a thin film of ink - then it is full. I noticed you weren't doing that.
I use toothpaste and an old toothbrush, also in addition, get the edge of a piece of notebook paper between the tines a few times to help clean between them.
I would think rubbing alcohol and a microfiber cloth would cut the oil off. I have a few nice knives to which I apply mineral oil to prevent rust blooms. I clean them with rubbing alcohol & microfiber cleaning cloth for sharpening or stropping. Many knife companies include them with pricier knives. I just got started playing with my new dip pen. Now I know why it's been so stubborn 😂😂😂
Hi Liz, I use acetone or alcohol to remove the wax from the nibs. I love the “G” nibs and they never worked until I prepared them with acetone or alcohol. Then they worked absolutely great. I also love the kind of nib that you have, too.
There is nothing on the g pen nib... Or do you see anything on them? Did you scratch them to see if there is actualy wax on them, because i did not see anything on my g pens or had any problems with them Btw, a youtuber i did watch asked zebra if there is anything on their nibs and they said NO!!! And i did also never had problems using my g pen nibs, you just need to dip them deep enouth
@@Eckus i got some deleter g nibs and there absolutely was an oil on mine. that being said it worked pretty ok without cleaning still, but a touch of alchohol on a q-tip and quick rub and it absolutely did better. you can tell not by looking at it dry, but by diping in ink and seeing if the ink coats it flat or if it beads up. beading is bad. again for the G it didn't _not_ work without cleaning it just worked better with it. but i also got some maru tip and that one didn't work at all without cleaning because the beading ink couldn't flow at all. window cleaner has some kind of soap in it usually, it's the soap that does the cleaning, normal dish or even hand soap will clean it just as well. alchohol is just easier for me.
Thank you, ma'am, for the great explanation. (I had not understood the problem that oil or wax caused in the other videos I saw.) Also, thanks to all the commentators for the tips :)
In school, many many years ago obviously, I was taught to put a new nib pen into my mouth first before using. Different times. we had a brilliant arts teacher and a classroom with roof light and real drawing tables!
Yes, different times!!! Poisoning children was quite acceptable... You were lucky to have such a great teacher. Art teaching has been stripped back and back in state schools in the UK. I little saliva does the trick for sure.
I am new to dip pen but I believe she just didn't dip it far enough. Pretty sure that "hole" in the middle needs to be filled with ink so it flows from the hole which is a reserve storage then flows down the middle between the tines and writes. I dip to fill the holes and it can do quite a bit of writing... so yeah, believe she just didn't use enough ink.
@@LizChadertonArt ... lol 🤣 not if you are careful..works only with new nibs, to burn away the lacquer,.. there is a video on TH-cam somewhere on how to prepare new nibs. .. I was sceptical but it does work, but don't hold the flame too long under the nibs, do it a couple of short time's, as it may affect the tamper of the metal.
@@cag9284 I know about the technique but dipping in boiling water works just as well and less chance of damage to me or the nib! I am not a particularly careful person!
Its bullshit that there is anything on the nibs, i use mine alway witout doing anything to them and they work perfect! You just need to dip them deep enought into the ink and not just the very tip like you did!!! I mean you had no improfement using 3 diverent liquids but you did just dip the first tip and didnt go over the complete hole like it should be!
That’s rude and uncalled for. It is factual that the nibs are coated and it needs removing - check with the manufacturers. In hindsight I am aware I was not dipping the pen deeply enough but filming, explaining and doing at the same time can be tricky, so I was not perfect….. Your search for perfection should continue elsewhere.
it's possible some nibs aren't coated, but they generally do have a coating. i prefer alchohol to clean it. some nibs work even without cleaning which i think is probably a result of their specific geometry (my g nib worked fine without cleaning, my maru did not work at all without cleaning. same brand, same box.
Didn't do nothing for me. My dip pen won't even start. And once it sart's it dries out during the first letter. I'm using regular ink, I'm using dip pen ink, no change and I'm getting frustrated because the internet id full of crap that doesn't apply to my situation.
I understand you are frustrated, but it seems harsh to say the information you have found is crap. No doubt, it answers questions other people ask, even if not yours.
Fine sandpaper works well for me , strokes along the length consistently- I get phenomenal results
another great tip - thanks
This is a very informative video!
I have a book from 1933 called "Draw Comics! -Here's How-"; That book also tells you how to prepare a new nib. It says to hold the nib under a match flame for a few seconds, Then gently rub it against a sharpening stone. My, how times have changed!
thank goodness!
Thank you! I just got a dip pen set as a gift, and only ONE of the nibs worked. There seemed to be plenty of ink in the reservoirs of the other nibs, but it just wasn't flowing. This video is one of the first ones that popped up when I tried to figure out what was wrong, and your tips solved the problem! 😁
hurrah! enjoy your pens
Many people recommend heating the nib with a flame but hitting the nib with a flame is one of the most idiotic things you can do to it. Nibs are made from spring steel, which contains between 0,5-1% carbon, so it can be hardened. That´s importtant because a nib made from mild steel would just bend and not spring back into it´s original form. To achieve that, nibs have to be heat treated. The first step is to heat the steel to around 800°C and then cooling it off quickly, for example by dropping it in oil. The steel is now very hard but very brittle. The nib would just break. That´s why there is a second step to the heat treating process, the tempering. The metal is heated up again, usually to 200-300°C, depending on the properties the final product is supposed to have. The tempering takes away a bit of the hardness but gives the steel it´s flexibility back. In order to burn off the oil from the surface you would have to get the nib way hotter than 300°C. That means the nib would be much softer than the manufacturer intended. It would not be as springy as before and it would wear out much faster. It´s a good way to ruin a nib.
Boiling water on the other hand is fine because it´s only 100°C
I wouldn’t use a flame, as I’m likely to set fire to myself, my studio etc. but thank you for the scientific explanation!
@@LizChadertonArt I understand where you´re comming from. I too prefer not setting myself on fire, mainly because it sounds like an unpleasent experience.
I work in a wooden studio 😆@@Christopher_Giustolisi
Thank you -- this was VERY helpful. I've dabbled with dip nibs on and off, and have often had trouble making one write well. I was aware that they were said to be coated with oil, wax, or shellac, but I had mistakenly convinced myself that if no coating was visible, then I didn't need to worry about it. When ink wouldn't cling to the nib, I blamed it on the ink being too watery or not tenacious/viscous enough. After seeing your video (and others on this topic, though yours was the first one I came across 😉), I've started cleaning some of the vintage nibs I've collected over the years, and the results have been fantastic.
You started your video by saying these were things you wish you had known when you were first getting started. I would add this - even if you can't detect a coating (and it appears that one usually can't, even on new-old-stock nibs that are decades old), you should assume it is there, and go ahead and clean or prep the nib. It's not that much effort, and if nothing else, you will have eliminated one possible source of trouble.
so glad it helped and now you’ve got all those fab nibs to use!
Tried acetone and a flame before getting frustrated and searching TH-cam.
Glad I found your video... Boiling water did the job! Many thanks.
so much easier 😊
A good little experiment, always helpful to compare techniques.
Pen companies themselves should know the best way to remove the coating they put on. I have always used a toothbrush, ordinary bath soap and the tap. Way back 25 or so years ago I used a flame but had no idea how long to do it for at first. I found out later you should re-temper the nib with an immediate dip in cold water. You only take the nib back and forth over the flame about 2-4 times once per second or so. Make sure you catch from the tip to the far end of the reservoir (the elongated hole) and do both upper and lower surfaces. So it should take no more than around 6-8 seconds in all before you dip it in the water. Don't linger over the flame; keep it moving.
As you only dip deep enough to flood the reservoir there's no need to clean it much past there. Always use a well deep enough that when you dip, the reservoir hole is submerged and comes out with a thin film of ink - then it is full. I noticed you weren't doing that.
Thank you for all the detailed information. Very useful!
Acetone and spit has worked better for me than window cleaner, oddly.
But I've never tired boiling water, I'll make sure to try it some time :)
I think everyone has their favourite methods!
I use toothpaste and an old toothbrush, also in addition, get the edge of a piece of notebook paper between the tines a few times to help clean between them.
great tips. Thank you!
T-h-a-n-k you! Stopped trying to use my nibs because they-didn't-work ! Now I will try these methods.
Did it work?
@@LizChadertonArt Haven't tried yet, but I know one or more will work - having tried nothing before! Thank you.
@@patferguson572 have fun!
I would think rubbing alcohol and a microfiber cloth would cut the oil off. I have a few nice knives to which I apply mineral oil to prevent rust blooms. I clean them with rubbing alcohol & microfiber cleaning cloth for sharpening or stropping. Many knife companies include them with pricier knives.
I just got started playing with my new dip pen. Now I know why it's been so stubborn 😂😂😂
gtreat. I hope it fixes the pen!
I use tooth past with a tooth brush. It works great.
great tip, thank you 😊
Thank you so much Liz for this very helpful video!
You are so welcome!
And here I am thinking I do something wrong when it works poorly, must try to clean my nibs. Thanks a lot!
Hope it works for you and remember, a nib is like a new pair of shoes and needs to be worn in!!
Hi Liz, I use acetone or alcohol to remove the wax from the nibs. I love the “G” nibs and they never worked until I prepared them with acetone or alcohol. Then they worked absolutely great. I also love the kind of nib that you have, too.
Thanks Marti - never used acetone or alcohol (though maybe there is alcohol in window cleaner??? Not sure). Will also try those.
There is nothing on the g pen nib... Or do you see anything on them? Did you scratch them to see if there is actualy wax on them, because i did not see anything on my g pens or had any problems with them
Btw, a youtuber i did watch asked zebra if there is anything on their nibs and they said NO!!! And i did also never had problems using my g pen nibs, you just need to dip them deep enouth
@@Eckus i got some deleter g nibs and there absolutely was an oil on mine. that being said it worked pretty ok without cleaning still, but a touch of alchohol on a q-tip and quick rub and it absolutely did better. you can tell not by looking at it dry, but by diping in ink and seeing if the ink coats it flat or if it beads up. beading is bad.
again for the G it didn't _not_ work without cleaning it just worked better with it. but i also got some maru tip and that one didn't work at all without cleaning because the beading ink couldn't flow at all.
window cleaner has some kind of soap in it usually, it's the soap that does the cleaning, normal dish or even hand soap will clean it just as well. alchohol is just easier for me.
Fantastic, thanks! (I followed your advice to use boiling water)
Fantastic!
Thank you, ma'am, for the great explanation. (I had not understood the problem that oil or wax caused in the other videos I saw.) Also, thanks to all the commentators for the tips :)
Glad it was helpful!
Great video and super helpful! Thanks so much! :')
glad it was helpful
But how can I remove the oil
I show you loads of different ways in the film
I was taught to use liquid ammonia diluted with water, which is one of the ingredients of the glass cleaner.
ammonia is great for getting clogged up ink off nibs, but it smells so bad I would avoid it except for emergencies!
Looks the appropriate channel to ask advice on what are the best nibs for a daily writing?
Sorry, I only use nibs for drawing. My handwriting is purely ballpoint pen!
@@LizChadertonArt oh I see, okay, thank you for the honesty, I appreciate it!
Sometimes you have to push and spread the nib to get the ink flowing again every now and then
thanks for the tip
In school, many many years ago obviously, I was taught to put a new nib pen into my mouth first before using. Different times. we had a brilliant arts teacher and a classroom with roof light and real drawing tables!
Yes, different times!!! Poisoning children was quite acceptable... You were lucky to have such a great teacher. Art teaching has been stripped back and back in state schools in the UK. I little saliva does the trick for sure.
Dish washing detergent cuts down grease. Try adding a few drops to the boiling water.
Thanks for the tip!
‘twice as good’ still looks pants tho doesn’t it? I was seriously thinking about getting one of these nibs but now I’ve decided against it
I don’t think I’ve used them since doing this film…… shame
I am new to dip pen but I believe she just didn't dip it far enough. Pretty sure that "hole" in the middle needs to be filled with ink so it flows from the hole which is a reserve storage then flows down the middle between the tines and writes. I dip to fill the holes and it can do quite a bit of writing... so yeah, believe she just didn't use enough ink.
Be very careful pouring boiling water into an empty jam jar……..it can shatter through thermal shock. Best put a little cold water in first.
Thanks for the warning, though I have never had a jar shatter on me
Window cleaner will add another film on.
Depends on the window cleaner formulation, I think. worth playing around with different ones.
Great tips. Thanks Liz.🙂
Glad it was helpful!
Would 99% ISOPROPANOL ALCOHOL work?
I would have thought so, but I have never used it myself
Burn with a match.. works great
yes, but the outside chance of burns 😂
@@LizChadertonArt ... lol 🤣 not if you are careful..works only with new nibs, to burn away the lacquer,.. there is a video on TH-cam somewhere on how to prepare new nibs. .. I was sceptical but it does work, but don't hold the flame too long under the nibs, do it a couple of short time's, as it may affect the tamper of the metal.
@@cag9284 I know about the technique but dipping in boiling water works just as well and less chance of damage to me or the nib! I am not a particularly careful person!
Toothpaste. Sounds silly but it's foolproof.
not silly at all…a mild abrasive. Good tip!
I was just going to say toothpaste 😬
@@Kyomiibrown great minds!
Dipping the nib in a raw potato helps to prepare a dip pen and clean it after using it.
Ooh, that sounds like a good idea. I am doing a dip pen work shop tomorrow and will take one to try out!
I've tried the potato trick and it's great. I have mentioned it in the film I've done for today too. Thank you!
I'm glad you liked the potato tip. x
@@sandall100 It makes an appearance today, but I couldn't work out how to tag you. Some bits of YT are beyond me!!
Its bullshit that there is anything on the nibs, i use mine alway witout doing anything to them and they work perfect! You just need to dip them deep enought into the ink and not just the very tip like you did!!!
I mean you had no improfement using 3 diverent liquids but you did just dip the first tip and didnt go over the complete hole like it should be!
That’s rude and uncalled for. It is factual that the nibs are coated and it needs removing - check with the manufacturers. In hindsight I am aware I was not dipping the pen deeply enough but filming, explaining and doing at the same time can be tricky, so I was not perfect….. Your search for perfection should continue elsewhere.
it's possible some nibs aren't coated, but they generally do have a coating. i prefer alchohol to clean it. some nibs work even without cleaning which i think is probably a result of their specific geometry (my g nib worked fine without cleaning, my maru did not work at all without cleaning. same brand, same box.
Interesting!@@Jalae
Didn't do nothing for me. My dip pen won't even start. And once it sart's it dries out during the first letter. I'm using regular ink, I'm using dip pen ink, no change and I'm getting frustrated because the internet id full of crap that doesn't apply to my situation.
I understand you are frustrated, but it seems harsh to say the information you have found is crap. No doubt, it answers questions other people ask, even if not yours.