Just to let you know what I'm working with. 1984 Chevy Class C with a 350, 1 AGM deep cycle house battery and 1 AGM dual purpose starting battery. I just bought 2/100w panels that came with a 20a PWM controller. From my research online, here is my plan. Currently I have 1 starting and 1 house battery. From the solar controller, the wires go to the pos + neg house battery. Then connect a "pos only" jumper wire from house to an isolator. Then another jumper wire from Isolator to pos terminal of the starting battery allowing the solar to charge both batteries. If I am correct so far, this set up will only charge whichever battery is low and not over charge the other. No i've read that I will also need a DC cutoff between the solar and controller, and a fuse link somewhere? any help would be appreciated!
I have an 80's RV with 1 starting and 1 house battery under the hood. If I connect the solar controller right to the RV fuse box, would the solar power charge the starting and house batteries?
@UKsystems that is not always the case. Not all RV's are built the same way. Depends on the mechanism the manufacturer used to combine the house and starter batteries, often referred to as a BIM. Some do not use a BIM at all, therefore having no connection between starter and house. This is specifically the case on many older RV's.
@@UKsystems Of course, but we were replying to the comment above about what appears to be a factory system without much modification. This is why telling the customer to call so we can discuss, instead of giving a shotgun approach answer, is the best bet here...
Just to let you know what I'm working with. 1984 Chevy Class C with a 350, 1 AGM deep cycle house battery and 1 AGM dual purpose starting battery. I just bought 2/100w panels that came with a 20a PWM controller. From my research online, here is my plan. Currently I have 1 starting and 1 house battery. From the solar controller, the wires go to the pos + neg house battery. Then connect a "pos only" jumper wire from house to an isolator. Then another jumper wire from Isolator to pos terminal of the starting battery allowing the solar to charge both batteries. If I am correct so far, this set up will only charge whichever battery is low and not over charge the other. No i've read that I will also need a DC cutoff between the solar and controller, and a fuse link somewhere? any help would be appreciated!
We are happy to help with this, but you need to call or email. TH-cam comments are not managed by our engineers or technicians. Thanks!
I have an 80's RV with 1 starting and 1 house battery under the hood. If I connect the solar controller right to the RV fuse box, would the solar power charge the starting and house batteries?
That is a pretty specific question. I would recommend calling us at 561-320-2842 and ask for Matt. He can answer that for you.
@UKsystems that is not always the case. Not all RV's are built the same way. Depends on the mechanism the manufacturer used to combine the house and starter batteries, often referred to as a BIM. Some do not use a BIM at all, therefore having no connection between starter and house. This is specifically the case on many older RV's.
@@UKsystems Of course, but we were replying to the comment above about what appears to be a factory system without much modification.
This is why telling the customer to call so we can discuss, instead of giving a shotgun approach answer, is the best bet here...
@@MobileSolarConsulting I will email you guys now, and follow up in the morning with Matt. Thanks!
Any information on when thor will release their Ev van or any Ev motorhomes?
No, not sure about that.