I was getting ready to use Future for the first time, so I found your video. Great information! I had a 40 year old build that had been stored away and had fallen apart and got covered in dust and gunk. I washed all the parts and scrubbed them with a tooth brush. When they dried they looked very dull. So I scrubbed them again with q-tips and water and found there was still a dirty film on them. So I repeated untils my Q-tips didn't get dirty anymore. The models had had several coats of Pactra clear with gold mist over black and it still looked dull. So after rebuilding them, I just now put the pledge over them and they look 100 times better! I will be displaying them at the Pony Express NNL meet in Elwood, Kansas, this Saturday, November 6th, 2021. It will be fun to show my rare El Toro funny car and hauler at the show. Thanks for your help!
Great video - like the person below, this answered ALL of my questions about using it and also removed my fear of trying it. I've been building models casually off and on since I was 8 years old (71 now!) and I want to take my kits to a higher level of finish by adding more details. Thanks for all the great info - now I don't have to watch any more videos on it to convince myself! Subscribed!
Glad it was helpful! And thanks so much for letting me know - that is always a great encouragement. Enjoy the journey! Thanks for the sub, and for watching and commenting. 😊
Glad you liked it! I am grateful! Please do share - it really helps me out. If you've not seen it, I recently posted a video that focuses on airbrushing Pledge. th-cam.com/video/uMPWVuAlZiw/w-d-xo.html Thanks for watching and commenting! Happy day to you. 😊
G'day Jon, Thank you for clearing up several points of confusion for me. I'm getting back into modelling as a retired bloke after only making a handful of models since I was a teenager. So much has changed in kit modelling over the years but the basics are still the same. I often heard people talking about 'Future' and 'Pledge', even others talking about 'floor wax' for glossing or semi-glossing their models. I have no idea what, if anything, was being used down here in Australia. I always just used to use model products for gloss finishes. We don't use floor covering products here at home so I didn't have a clue, but I was impressed with canopies and windows dipped in this flooring stuff. All the videos I saw of Pledge were 5 years or more old and so when I went to look in the shops recently, I couldn't find anything that was even similar. Then I got on to some suppliers in the US, many of whom said this was the last stocks they were going to have of 'Pledge Care Finish'. A couple of bottles, including freight worked out at over AUD$70 ! Finally, I found two bottles of 'Pledge Revive', which looks clear, from an Australian supplier at AUD$27 a bottle. Thanks to you now know the other uses there are for this product and it I will love anything that makes applying decals easier. Decals were always a problem for me when I started modelling as a kid. So, thank you again for this valuable information. I'll now take a look at your other videos and I'll subscribe. All the best to you. Cheers, BH
Hi Bill! Thank you so much for such and encouraging reply! I'm very glad this video was helpful to you. It's a simple yet so useful product, and I've been using it for 14 years on around 350 models and just love it. If I can be of help as you explore applying it, please don't hesitate to contact me on my site's Contact form. (www.jonbius.com) Have fun as you get back into the hobby! Thanks for the comment and the subscribe! :D
@@geevo253 G'day Geevo, Thanks very much for that info. I'll head off to Bunnings this week. I was getting low on the expensive stuff and was just about to order more. You've saved me many $$ ! Thanks, mate! Cheers, Bill
It definitely takes some experiments to get it down right. Practice varying amounts and application methods on scrap and see what works best. Have fun with it! And thanks for watching and commenting!
I know the feeling. I wanted to try it a while back but couldn't find any nearby, so I ordered it from Amazon. Turned out I ordered six bottles. Now I have to keep building models for the rest of my life whether I want to or not. LOL
I love how the two photography lamps look like ufo flying saucers around your head. Real great video - It wasn’t like a rant as you feared as it was concise, smooth, and efficient not to mention without any fluff. Grand information as I hadn’t the slightest idea it could be used for photo-etch adherence - Thank You, that was something I’ve been getting so frustrated with. That is, concerning acceptable adherence with those pieces consistently. Very grateful. Also, thank you for clearing up the ‘water/thin it down’ bs. As a product to work as expected you don’t want to interfere with it’s composition - But also it has ever such brilliant viscosity pure out the bottle - perfect for ab and brush.
Thanks so much for your kind words, and I'm so glad you found it useful! That's always my primary goal. Thanks for watching and commenting - happy day to you friend!
Thank you from England. That was the best explanatory video I've seen, not in the slightest bit boring and easy to follow. When I want to get on quickly, I use my travel hair dryer. But have you heard this one? Pledge (I'm English) as a decal fixer. I literally watched a demo before finding your video and it came out better than a certain sol and set double act if you get my meaning. I also dip my canopies in it. Thanks again.
Thanks for the kind words! Yes, I do use it as a fixer at times, as well as for canopy dips, p/e "glue", and many other uses. It's a great multi-use product! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Great video! I have two anecdotal Future tidbits that folks might also be interested in: 1) I found Future to be one of the only top-coats that won't dull a really shiny chrome. Did a battery of tests with about a half dozen different varnishes over Molotow Liquid Chrome, and basically all of them dulled that glorious mirror finish to the point that it looked like a bog-standard acrylic silver paint, except for Future, which TBH did dial down the Molotow's reflectiveness very slightly, but the difference was night and day compared to the other top-coats I tested. You could still see yourself pretty clearly in the Future-coated chrome. Have heard Alclad's gloss coat might also be able to pull it off, but don't have access to it; the other gloss coats I did have on hand to test (Vallejo Acrylic, Vallejo Polyurethane, Liquitex, Citadel 'Ardcoat, and Testor's) all failed, though. 2) It might be durable but it does seem to be relatively permeable, at least by some things. I had used chipping solution on a kit, and sealed it with Future before doing decals. One or both of my decal solutions was definitely able to seep through the Future and re-active the chipping solution. Next time I do chipping solution or hairspray chipping I'm definitely going to try sealing that step with something a bit hardier like polyurethane or lacquer; chipping solution (or hairspray) is specifically intended to be easy to re-activate, which is how it lifts the paint layer above it, so it seems to need a sealant that'll keep the rest of your modeling products from reaching it, and Future doesn't seem quite up to that job.
Great video! I've been following your stuff for quite awhile now and encouraged to see a video like this surface without the unneeded criticism of others or other products. There are social media groups probably enraged with keyboard warriors already on why not to use future this morning.....that cult is crazy! I've always stayed clear of the arguments because they go nowhere and I don't need to win an internet war on the subject. When you know the uses of a product and how it benefits the modeling process, you can model happily. You have hit all the critical points......well done and thorough!
Very helpful video. I have recently gotten back into building model cars again and never knew about Future, or Pledge floor gloss as a shine enhancer or top gloss coat. I got out a model that I built more than 20 years ago and did a little restoration on it. It was already clear coated with decals under the clear coat and I used a brush and liberally applied the floor gloss and was astounded at how the model shined so much better, and is protected for many years to come. I am restoring a MPC 1972 Roadrunner model for a friend of mine and have already applied decals and clear coat. When I finish it, it will also have a nice protective cover of floor gloss. Thanks for this helpful video!!!!
Just discovered your channel and you got a thumbs up and my subscription! Yes back in the day when we heard they (Pledge) was going to stop making it LOL yeah I too had a case. I was introduced to this technic years and years ago by an Elder friend of my Church who was absolutely a master modeler, he taught me a lot of cool tricks I don't see people doing or they do it a different way which is great as it's the language of the Hobby. My friend has long since past he was a neat guy. So let me tell you something else you can do with Future or be it Kleer or Revive It, this was one of my friends tricks. You can dip plastic clear parts in it to make them appear like Glass, the more dip layers the Glass look however 1 or 2 dips (of course letting it dry between dips) is all you really need, as too many layers and it might not fit into place very well. The best part to this tip/trick not only will your vehicle windscreen look like actual glass BUT best part here: the Future protects the plastic from fogging or hazing when you glue it in place! As we know if not careful it's easy to fog or haze clear parts with modeling glue. Even glues that say they don't fog or haze it can still happen on clear plastic parts. Thank you for posting and reading this. Hope everyone has an awesome Day!
Yep - the old plastic canopy dip! I've done that many a time when I did aircraft builds. Works like a charm. Wonderful to read of a brother passing this along! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Thanks Jon for the sage and practical advice. I'm just now getting back into scale models after being a dormant hobby for 40 years your channel is most helpful to get me up to speed again.
My "stash" started with my 1:48 B-25, B-17 and B-24. Thanks to ebay it (stash) has grown to 27 planes. Still working on getting a B-58 and a B-2. Had to go with 1:72 on the B-52, B-1 and the SR-71. B-52 is on the bench. My airbrush is calling! :) @@JonBius
Thanks Jon. Really liking your channel. Well done all the way around and very pleasantly presented. Got my three Pledge bottles! I'm 66, here in Virginia, so a lifetime supply for sure. Working well so far. Liked and subscribed. Keep em coming bro! My final coat for my planes is Mr Hobby matt so should I use Pledge as my final gloss coat before the matt or not? If you said in the video I may have missed it.
Awesome, thank you! I am grateful for your kind words, and that you're enjoying the channel. Thanks for subscribing, watching, and commenting too. Happy day to you!
Well done Jon, you provided me with some useful information on the product and answered the question I had. I model in N-scale and intent to use Future as a sealer for wood that has peel and stick items and also needs to be painted.
Hi John, love all your videos. You're the best for practical, useful videos. I have a question re using Pledge...Another TH-cam presenter said that Pledge yellows over time, esp, noticeable on models w/ white paint. Have you ever encountered this?
Thanks so much for your kind words words! I am grateful! I have heard that for years, but I've never had it happen. What I have seen is white paint turn yellowish, and I suspect it's due to exposure to sunlight, the general dust and so forth that can build up, and even the subtle build up of smoke residue from cooking oil, etc. I have a few models dating back to 2006, and aside from the dust build up, the color is the same - even over the white decals. I think the key for long term storage is avoiding any direct/bright light, and keeping them dusted and cleaned. Regardless of whether Pledge is used. Older bottles of Pledge can turn a bit darker, but in the micron thin application we do in the hobby, I've never felt it altered the finish. I hope that helps. Thanks for the question, for your kind words, and for watching and commenting! Happy day to you!
Good stuff, Jon. I've also used Future to float decals onto a model with good success. My best success when using it as a paint sealing coat has been using it at a low pressure and building up coats gradually. I tried one coat the first time I used it and it beaded up on me...flat freaked me out. It leveled out, but after that I went with gradual coats.
Great video. Thank you for the information. I was watching a model assembly video and they used future and my reaction was “what the heck is that?”. Now I know. I am just getting back into modeling after 25 years so that I can teach my son (and enjoy it myself). Tips and info like in this video are fantastic.
Thanks so much - I am glad you found it useful! And I love that you're not only back in the hobby, and that you're teaching your son too. When my son was living at home, we built models together, and that was so much fun. Check out my Weathering Scale Models playlist - you might find that helpful - th-cam.com/play/PLZt56FNuWOKfHs6gaqKR2V-g2nq1B7DZM.html Thanks again for watching and commenting. 😊
Thank you so much! I'm so grateful! And I'm so happy you found the video helpful. :D Hopefully in due time it will get more views, etc. I appreciate the view and the comment - every little bit helps. Have a great day!
Hey, Jon I’m spraying acrylics currently going to invest in some lacquer paints later on. But will pledge be ok to enamel wash over and not mess up the acrylic paint job underneath?
@@tajaygordon9358 Yes! It works great for that. I've done that all the time. Just be sure and give the Pledge enough time to dry - 24 hours is plenty - and don't flood the model with wash. Put on what's needed, and clean/blend as required. Also, for the Pledge to be most effective, try to make sure the paint underneath is as smooth as possible. Sometimes I'll use a soft cotton t-shirt to lightly buff the paint before applying Pledge. Not enough to rub the paint off, but just to remove any light texture. Have fun Tajay! Thanks so much for watching my videos! :D
Jon Bius awesome! Thanks for the quick reply. I’ve been painting no grade models for practice. Moving onto my high grade kits next and want to practice washing. So this is a huge help for me. 🙏🏾
Fantastic video!!!!! I race 1:28 kyosho mini z cars. These have styrene bodies just like the model cars we all love to build. In racing the bodies get scratches, and paint rub just like the real cars. There Future videos has shown that I now have a coating that will shine, and be abrasion resistant. Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge!!!!!!!!👍👍👍
Thanks so much! I am grateful for your kind words, and that you left a comment. What a cool way to use it! I remember watching NASCAR - "if you ain't rubbin', you ain't racin'!" 😁 Hope that works well for you!
Great video. I screwed up a future utility coat with decal setting solution and blamed the future...turns out it was me. Any acrylic clear would have done the same thing. Its been great to work with so far...a second coat got it back up to snuff. Keep it up...really enjoying the channel.
Coming back to the hobby after many years away (I just turned 72 on July 3rd), and I love your channel. So down to earth. Refreshing to see that. I have a question tho...if I use future or pledge or even quick shine, will that lens a bit of gloss to an acrylic paint that would otherwise be more of a matte finish?
Thanks so much for your kind words, and welcome back to the hobby! Yes, a drop of gloss will give a nice shine to lenses. Thanks so much for watching and commenting - happy day to you!
I am a figure modeler. When I was doing my heaviest volume of work about 20 years ago, I would typically use Future for things like finished eyes, the inside of mouths, female lips, open wounds, blood stains, etc. It would be great for this because Future would lay down fluidly and not disturb any washes or dry coats, unlike Testors gloss cote that would lift or dissolve them. Now that I'm getting back into the hobby, I remembered that Future was transformed into Pledge floor gloss, which has also been discontinued and replaced with Pledge floor care. It's so aggravating. Anyway, I just wanted to say thanks for making a clear concise video covering this.
@@JonBius Has anyone tried the other water-based acrylic floor finishes? I've noticed many competing products are milky out of the bottle and dry clear, where Future is clear the whole time (except for the off-gassing period about 10-15 minutes in where your clear parts go a bit frosty temporarily as they cure!). I bought some called Quick Shine to use on the floor so that the rest of my Future can be reserved for modeling, tempted to try it on a scrap piece.
@@maximilian3004 I've not tried other brands, though others have told me they have successfully. I still have 2/3 of one bottle, and two additional full ones! 😁 So I'm set for a while.
@@JonBius Follow-up question on curing. I've noticed that regardless of how long a coat on the floor sits, prolonged water exposure (such as when my dog spills his water bowl) seems to reactivate the sealer and cause some sort of reaction that makes the finish milky...have you had issues with water touching a model coated in Future and having an adverse reaction? It doesn't take long for the water to stain the finish. Mopping the floor and refinishing seems to mask this problem. I dipped my canopy yesterday afternoon but due to the vintage Airfix engineering and tolerances, the seams around the cockpit are going to need filling and sanding...worried the wet-sanding might frost the canopy after it's been glued in place.
Great video Jon, one thing to make sure to keep in mind, making sure to not use Mr hobby mark setter & softer on future clear finish because that stuff is too strong and it WILL pick up the color underneath the clear.
Great and useful video as ever Jon! As someone who is new back into modelling the world of varnishing is a minefield and the use of Pledge is a great one!
In my opinion Klear/Future/Pledge Revive It (or whatever they are calling it this week) is one of the best and most versatile modeling products out there. It's absolutely dirt cheap considering you are getting 750ml of the stuff. It looks great as a final coat, it works great as a base coat sealer prior to decals and weathering, it clears up canopies and glass windows/headlights/rear lights brilliantly. It also rather smells nice when spraying it. I've heard it works great brushed on although I've never done that myself. I've often put Future on a model, even military vehicles, with the intention of putting decals and weathering on it then finishing with a dull or matte coat. Then ultimately not even bothering, but instead sealing the decals and weathering with another coat of Future and calling the model finished. I can't even really explain why, as it doesn't strictly look "real" - But it looks good. Only fellow modelers would look at these and think "that model isn't done" or "it doesn't look realistic enough". Non-modeling people all universally praise the appearance. Hell I just finished a Tamiya M41 Walker Bulldog tank where this happened. I fully intended to finish it with a dull coating but I think it looks great with the Future semi-gloss coating. I have no desire or need to put anything else over top of it.
Great review!!!! I use it on a regular basis before and after decaling and washes, super easy to use and way more durable than gloss model paints, I won't use anything else this is a must for modellers!
Reviving this thread... I just discover you Jon, as I am looking for the best ways for me to apply my home made decals not on models, but on guitar effect pedals or "stomp boxes". Looking for something non smelling that I could apply with a brush, indoor, until spring brings back milder temperatures (then I can work outside or in my unheated barn) It might be interesting to list the history of FUTURE and the various iterations or avatars of this product. Sticking to the SC JOHNSON brands, I have sourced in France a bottle of PLIZ "Sublime" that French modelers swears is the same as Pledge or Future. It does make a nice coating indeed. WIKIPEDIA lists some informations too. But other sources seem to indicate that the newer products from SC Johnson are not the same, as they would have to get rid of some nasty components now banished (REACH compliance or something). Maybe we'll never know....
Thanks for watching my video and commenting! I don't know what to advise you about the SCJ products there, as it seems almost every country has slightly different names and formulas. Certainly consult with modelers who use the product. You might also look for modeling branded glosses. Those can be brushed on too, and are no or no odor. Check brands like Vallejo, AK Interactive, etc. Good look in your project!
Great explanation video! Pledge revive it it's my go to top coat. Airbrushes just fine, I keep hot water close by to rinse and flush then usual AB cleaner. Let pledge dry 24 hrs. If matt finish is desired, I found buffing coat with laundry sheet does the job! (Yes, sounds crazy. But, after the last year we had, necessity became the mother of trying new ideas out...🤷) hope this helps. P.S. forgot to mention. Using a used laundry sheet works best!
Really like your video and was wondering if acrylic thinner, Tamiya, will damage the future as I'm trying to blend acrylic or enamel washes. I am also returning to modeling and begin to feel overloaded after spending several hours on TH-cam watching videos. Was a lot easier when I was a kid and just built them for something to do. Now I want to put much more time and effort (plus models I built as a kid cost about 3 dollars and now sell for 30.00 :). I have been building mostly tanks and am struggling with the weathering aspect of my builds. Hobby clear coats are expensive and I'd rather spend that money on my next model ! I like the straight forward way you describe how and why to use Future and I am a new subscriber to your channel. Thanks !
Thanks so much for watching, commenting, and subscribing - I am grateful! And thank you for your kind words. 😊 Tamiya's thinner (X-20A or lacquer) would likely be a bit to "hot" for Future. Their enamel thinner should work in conjunction with enamels, thought it is quite hot also. There is a lot of material out there, some helpful, some not so much. (I hope mine is the former! 😁) Since you are returning to the hobby, I'll guess you may not have invested a lot yet into too many products. What I'd recommend is to get a few good acrylic weathering products (from Vallejo for example) and a few enamel or oil washes. (I prefer oils.) Some dark browns and earth colors are a good start. Work on learning the characteristics of each, and how they interact with each other. Those basic principles will then help you "build up" from there. Check out this video I put out a while back - it's basically a "playbook" of weathering. It may help spark some ideas. (th-cam.com/video/lWLuy5mAK0A/w-d-xo.html) If I can be of help, please don't hesitate to contact me through my blog - jonbius.com. Thanks again for watching and commenting!
Just found your channel, great discussion on Future (Pledge)or whatever. 😅 I enjoyed listening. By the way, do you gloss coat (TS-13 for instance) over the top of Future?
Thanks so much - I'm glad you enjoyed it! For the work I do, Future is simply a utility gloss coat - it's added on to allow for other things to take place, such as adding decals, washes, etc. If I were wanting a final gloss coat on a model - something that needed to be shiny, like a car - I'd use something else, like TS-13. I've not ever done that though, as my models tend to all be weathered. My assumption is that it would work, as a fully cured acrylic coat is very durable. And I've applied lacquer based products over acrylics, and that worked OK. As long as the acrylic was cured, and the lacquer product was not flooded on, it worked. Still, I'd recommend testing it on some spare parts, just to make sure. Thanks again for watching and commenting!
Important trick I use! Keep a micro handheld cigarette torch nearby. The type that you press down and instantly ignites a small blue torch flame. As I paint on future, I always get lots of bubbles. I quickly blast the work with the micro torch and bam! Bubbles gone! Just a quick blast from not so near a distance!
Sorry I'm late. Just wanted to add that i like to use future/pledge to make candy/transparent paints to airbrush like ghost flames, smoke, 3D, etc. I also like to use temporary tattoos for hood murals. Future/pledge gives a great surface for them. Great video btw
Just getting into airbrushing for personal use as just took early retirement so do you mix the pledge with the paint to make your candies or do you have a link to a how to any advice is much appreciated respect
@@sprockylock391 I don't know that it would work well to produce a candy coat. I'd recommend using proper modeling glosses and candy coats for that. Adding Future would make it glossy, but it would not be the deep shine usually associated with a candy coat. Thanks for watching and commenting, and enjoy your retirement!
Hey Norm! Congratulations on your retirement! And thanks for watching my video, commenting, and for your kind words. I am most grateful, and so happy you found it helpful. Take a look at this playlist of various videos I've released that cover weathering. Several of them go through using washes, panel lines, etc., so hopefully those can be useful. th-cam.com/play/PLZt56FNuWOKfHs6gaqKR2V-g2nq1B7DZM.html Thanks again, and I hope you have a wonderful retirement enjoying this great hobby!
A very interesting and informative video once again. Do you know if a Two Part Resin would adhere to the surface after Airbrushing Pledge on to it? Would the adhesion from the Pledge stop the Two Part Resin from chipping off? I don't know what I'm doing wrong, I apply 2 or 3 coat's of Pledge then paint the piece by an AIRBRUSH, the paint is still scratching off! Thank you for sharing your knowledge it's so generous of you. Take care my friend 👍😷👍
Thanks so much! I'm glad you found it helpful. I've never tried that actually. I'd recommend testing it on a piece of plastic scrap, or a test model, and see how it goes. I hope it works out well for you! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Thank you for a coherent video for us noobs. You are direct and you took away a lot of beginner fears. One question, your thought about combining with other products to give a matte finish at the end? Thanks in advance.
Thank you so much - I am grateful! In my experience, adding matte additives doesn't do any better than just using a purpose made matte product. By the time I fiddled with the ratios and got all that sorted out, I could have applied a matte varnish and already be finished. (I like Vallejo Mecha Matte Varnish.) Adding things to Future to create a matte finish works, but I felt it wasn't a better option in the end.
I bought a couple of bottles around 2002, and still have them with me to all countries and cities where I lived ever since. Their shelf life seems to be eternal :)
They do last a long time, especially if stored away from light! Maybe I need to coat myself in that stuff... slow down the aging process! 🤣 Thanks for watching and commenting!
Enjoyed that …I just come out hospital With a 2 month recovery here in UK.Decided to do a model kit after 30 years away from hobby and used something similar back then lol. Great all the new stuff out there now. Doing a Revell 1:144-400 747….This video confirmed to paint it Pledge it then decal and weather it then hit again with final pledge coat. I don’t have air brush set up but seen a foam Pad application and looked good ? Or would I advise stick to a good brush ? Thx
Glad you're out of the hospital! I hope you do well in your recovery. I'd opt for brush application. Don't flood it, but apply heavily enough to allow it to level. Thanks for watching and commenting! Take care!
Thanks! You are correct on the lights - just big clip-ons from the hardware store. At that time I was using a light gauze material - I think it was intended for silk-screening. However, I stopped using it, as testing showed it didn't seem to make much difference, and I was always knocking it off anyway! :) Thanks for watching and commenting!
LOL. Jon, this answers so many questions for me... Questions I have been pursuing for days since I have gotten back to modeling after 30 years when I once had a bottle of actual FUTURE! Just one point of clarification. So in your experience I can use Pledge over and under both enamels and acrylics? What Me Worry? So looking forward to following you as I crank my modeling back up again.
Hi Dale! I'm so glad this has been helpful for you! And yes - it works under and over acrylics and enamels. In both cases, make sure the acrylic or enamel has had sufficient time to cure. It's less of an issue over acrylics, but definitely needed over enamels. Otherwise cracks can form in subsequent payers as the enamels gas out. Hope that helps!
Hi John, just subscribed and have seen you stuff on the Internet and have been enjoying your builds. I do have a question: can I spray a gloss coat enamel over the finish? Also, can I use commercial flat spray coats like Krylon matte finish on my models? Cheers
Thanks for watching and commenting! And double thank you for the sub and the kind words! I am grateful. Yes, you can spray an enamel gloss coat over a model's finish - generally. There are caveats, of course... everything must be dry and cured, the gloss coat should not be flooded on, etc. If you've never used it before, I'd test it on something to make sure there are no negative interactions. I don't know about the Krylon matte over your model, as I've never tried it. The one time I've heard of it being used, the modeler said it frosted a bit, leaving white patches. I have no idea if it was an application problem, a bad chemical interaction, or what. As with anything, test extensively. In general, it's best to stick with modeling specific products, though that's obviously not a hard and fast rule! :D
Hi Jon, Great Video, Thanks. Sadly, we down under can't get Future (or it's incarnations) so we make sure anyone going to the US grabs a bottle or two to ration amongst my club. I always brush it as I can't seem to spray it well, what PSI do you spray it at ? The "experten" here also advise to add a couple of drops of "Windex" (ammonia based window cleaner) to the color cup when spraying, they tell me it makes it flow better, whatdoyareckon, or do you think this would be like the alcohol ? Many thanks & Blessings, Phill (PS. Your workspace is just simply too organised !)
Hey Phill! :D I always spray it right out of the bottle, no thinning, at about 18 psi. Windex (or any ammonia) has the same effect as alcohol - it breaks down the acrylic stuff in the product. It's good for cleaning (though I'm told it can strip the airbrushes chrome), but I'd avoid thinning Future.
Thanks! Your post was very helpful. What about using Future for making canopies and windshields clearer? I’ve seen people dunking and wicking it to make plastic look like glass
Thanks so much for watching and commenting! Yep! That works quite well! Two key points - always make sure to wick away the excess by holding it with tweezers on one corner, and letting the other corner just barely touch a paper towel. Then set it on the paper towel and cover it with a plastic container or similar so that no dust will settle on it as it dries. But it works really well!
Thanks so much! Yes, I do that all the time! I rarely leave my models with a glossy finish, so generally I either use weathering products that matte the finish down, or I apply a satin or matte coat. Often I'll let all three appear on a model, as that's often seen in "real life". The rule of cool definitely applies! :) Thanks again for watching and commenting!
I'm looking for an alternative to polyurethane to 'dip' my miniatures in, because polyurethane has the yellowing issue.. Right now I'm toying with using Polycrilic, but I'm not confident in it's durability. I want a super strong coating I can toss the models into a bag together. Would you say this floor sealer is more durable than minwax polycrilic? Thanks!
I have no idea if it's a polycrilic - I don't even know what that is! LOL The best I could tell you is if it's readily available, get some and give it a try. At worst, you can apply it to your floors. If it's not readily available, perhaps check in some local or online groups and see if anyone else has used it that way. It sounds like it would work, though I would be concerned about it pooling. Thanks for watching and commenting!
You can add Tamiya Flat Base (XF-21) to it. Different mix ratios will yield anything from slightly less glossy to drop dead flat. I used it a few times, but found it was quicker to grab a purpose made Matt varnish. But it does work. Hope that helps - thanks for watching and commenting!
Hi Jon Thank you so much for this video, I just started using future on my air dry clay and I use it instead of resin because I heard that resin is super toxic for the lungs and I got scared. I First use future and then after it dried modpodge. Do you think future is toxic too? It doesnt say anything on the bottle and I couldnt find any Information I will Follow your tip and use it straight from the bottle, Thank you so much! Keep up the good work ☀️
Thanks so much! I'm glad you found the video helpful. If you're airbrushing, always wear a respirator, regardless of what you're spraying. Anything atomized is a potential danger. For brush painting, it's fine as it is. I don't know of it's "official" toxicity. I wouldn't drink it for sure! :D
Can I please add one more point, the reason Decals "Sliver" is because there is a small amount of air between the decal and the surface, so that's why we gloss up our models ahead of decalling to create a smoother surface (Matt surfaces are inherently rough). Silvering is usually most likely to be obvious on darker colors, particularly black, obviously on a silver surface... well who cares :-) Another solution I have used in conjunction with Future is to wet the area to be decalled with watered down white glue, the white glue will fill any remaining air gaps and as it dries clear will help eliminate slivering. I have used this on AFVs straight over a matt finish many times with great success.
Yeah! GOod advice! When I finished this video, I had a Homer Simpson "DOH!" moment and thought "decals!" :D But yes - the "Future puddle" method works great on decals. Thanks for posting this - good info!
An absolute MUST on clear window/canopy. It really makes that clear plastic look amazingly clear, and protects it from dulling and dust. Just fantastic. Dries in a few minutes. Several coats at the same time is just fine. On paint, it's far better than nothing and just as good as cheap spray clear gloss. It gives a decent shine and gloss on any paint. Unless you got a very VERY good glossy paint coat, Future/Pledge will improve it. But the best Future/Pledge coat will not beat a decent/good clear gloss enamel or lacquer. Future/Pledge is way easier to apply and to maintain though. If you're not going for show quality or a gold medal look, then Future/Pledge is so worth it. If you want that deep/wet/dimensional look, don't use Future/Pledge as your final. Also, spraying clearcoat over Pledge/Future isn't a great idea. It can work, it can also wrinkle/pucker or even dull out. It also looks great on tires/wheels! GIves them that glossy, new, detailed look. But for us everyday modellers, Future/Pledge is fast, easy, and turns out just great. You can even brush it on! Honest. Give it a try. Make sure your brush is new or very clean, use a nice wide, soft, flat brush and really slop it on so that it runs off. Even on a completed model kit. Just brush it on and let the excess drip off, making sure you get those drips off the bottom edges. It's very hard, seals well, and doesn't dull or go satin. I get great results by using an eyedropper to drip more on while it levels out, thickening the coat. Use the dropper to suck up any dust motes and drip them into the trash. Be sure your paint is FULLY DRY. If not, you will get wrinkles and puckers almost every time. GIve that fresh paint a week to dry out. Three days if a thin pain job using fast drying paint. I'll often do the body paint first, then build, then after a long dry time, I Future/Pledge the heck out of it. I don't even use lacquer/gloss unless I want that deeper dimensional look - but I still Future/Pledge every window on every model and most tires. I haven't sprayed Future/Pledge since I got good at dripping/brushing the Future/Pledge.
The first time that I used Future, I made the mistake of spraying a light coat. There was a lot of orange peel. The next day, I tried again and went all out. It dried great!
Yeah, it definitely requires a bit of a wet coat. That whole "key coat" notion works for some things, but definitely not Future! Thanks for watching and commenting!
You just answered every question I had about this stuff, all I need to do now is find some! Someone tell me where and what its called in the UK please ?
Thanks so much! I am so glad this was helpful. I *think* it's called "Pledge Revive It" in the UK, but I'm not 100% positive. Check in some UK based model groups or forums and they can likely point you in the right direction. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Can I use this thing on my decast model car collection to prevent paint rashes. I would really appreciate your answer and explanations. Cause a lot of decast model collector hate paint rashes, and try to find a way to prevent it happening.
I don't know unfortunately. I've never used it on those. I don't think it would hurt the finish, but I don't know if it would prevent rashes in the paint. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Good stuff to know. I liked the "Caddy Shack" reference. The quote by Bill Murray. If you don't know what it is, I'm not going to explain it to you. You just have to watch the whole movie. You'll see it, then you'll know!!!
I make pieces of stone jewelry and use a product called rub and buff for special effects. Being that Rub and Buff basically is hardened carnauba wax infused with metallic mica, I'm thinking that Pledge revive it floor gloss would make for great extra protection as a finishing coat. What's your opinion? Oh, and very informative thank you.
Hey Bob! Thanks for watching and commenting. And thank you for your kind words too! It would depend on how shiny the finish was before the Pledge was applied. While it is a gloss coat, it's not the shiniest finish you could put on. I'd definitely test it in that regard. The other thing I'm not sure of would be how it would react with skin oil.Though it is acrylic, the heat and oil of a person's skin might wear it off. (Then again - I am speculating - it might not! :) ) Have you tried a more durable sealant, one designed to be very shiny? I'm wondering if a lacquer gloss coat would be better for that work - like the spray can Mr. Color stuff. Hope this speculation helps, maybe sparks an idea! Thanks again, and happy day to you!
Jon thanks so much, you really cleared up a lot of my questions. But I do have one. If I use this on a foam rc aircraft, do my panel wash and weathering do see any problems air brushing a few coats of water based Matte Varathane? My plane is an FW 190-A8 and I don’t want a glossy look to it. Thanks again for that very informative video.
Thank you so much for watching and commenting - I am grateful! And thank you for your kind words. :D I'm not sure on that one - I've not built RC aircraft, so I've never tested that combination of products. Best advice I can give is perhaps use some scrap foam, give it a coat of Pledge, let that cure, and then try the varathane. Because it is water based, my intuition is that things will be fine. I've applied lacquer coats over Pledge, and that did just fine, so I'm assuming anything water based is less harsh. Interesting question! I hope that works out well for you!
Thanks for the great video on Plegde/Future, Jon. My question is, will a layer of Pledge seal enamel well enough that I can apply lacquer without crazing the enamel? Thank you!!!
Thanks so much for your kind words, and for watching and commenting. I generally don't use enamels for a base paint, so I've not tried that order of application you mention. What I do know with regards to applying lacquers is that they can create issues with anything under them - even other lacquers - if you're not careful. If you're airbrushing, then lighter mist coats are called for. I've applied lacquers over acrylic base coats (both paint and Pledge) without problems. If you're planning on brushing lacquers on - test it first. When I brush paint lacquers, I've found that I can generally get away with a single "pass" of paint without activating what is underneath badly. (I've done this over lacquers, acrylics paint, and Pledge.) Once that is dry, I can apply a second coat. Give that a test. I think that should do the trick for you though!
Hi Jon. This is a great video. For some reason, my Tamiya panel line washes doesn't flow smoothly on the Pledge gloss coat. I wonder if I have done something wrong. Appreciate if you can advise. Thanks!
Thanks so much - I'm glad you enjoyed it! Several things could be going on - check to see if any of these apply: - I've had washes that will get "thick" over time. Some of the liquid in them will evaporate. These don't tend to flow as well. Try either adding a bit of odorless thinner to the wash (on a palette), and checking if that improves flow. - An alternate to that is that would be to apply odorless thinner along the panel line first, basically "pre-wetting" it. Then touch the wash into that area. That may help improve flow. - If the underlying paint had a rough texture to it, even after applying the gloss coat, that texture can impede the flow. Many times I've found it helpful to very lightly buff the surface of a model with a piece of soft cotton t-shirt material. The smoother your surface, the more effective the gloss coat will work. - Examine the gloss coat in bright light, shifting the angle of the model to allow it to reflect the light. Many times I've seen modelers will have a rough coat of gloss, which can be an indication of applying it in too light a layer, or from a bit too far away, which can result in a grainy appearance. (Often called "orange peel".) If it is grainy on the surface, it will be that way in the panel lines too. - Some models have really shallow panel lines. I know some Hasegawa kits I've built had such petite panel lines that the gloss coat seemed to partially fill them, leaving little for the wash to even flow into. This can be especially troublesome, as it's not practical to rescribe at that point. I often switched to a very fine tip (.05 mm) pen! Assuming you already have the gloss coat on, smoothing out the underlying paint is not practical I'd imagine. Try the first two options - thin the wash on a palette (just a bit at first), or "pre-wet" the panel lines. See how those work for you. My typical application is to lightly buff the model a bit with a soft piece of cotton t-shirt, remove the lint with a brush or piece of detacked tape, and then apply the Pledge. My application is fairly heavy - it's not runny, but it is wet enough that the gloss has enough wetness to self-level. It takes some practice. Feel free to contact me through the Contact link on my blog (jonbius.com) if you'd like to discuss it further. I hope this will help you! Have a great day!
I'am not a future user (however I've tested it) by principle. Despite the argument of the cost saving I still don't understand why a lot of modeler use it for that reason as they have aside, spent tons of money to grow they stash with models and aftermarkets they will never build. Anyhow, I have to admit that your video is well done and the subject well explained. Perhaps we could add this information: Some have reported some bad aging of the future (or whatever it is called). It took a yellowish tone. So if the model is intended to be kept a long time (perhaps exposed some hours to sun light), don't use future as your final clear coat. Best regards, Olivier.
Thanks for watching and commenting! I am grateful for your kind words! I actually addressed that topic in a later video - check it out here: th-cam.com/video/uMPWVuAlZiw/w-d-xo.html
@@JonBius In fact, the exemple I saw in picture was a clear coat of future on top of a metallic shade on the belly of a F-15. Just to say that it seems that it can occur, not to say that it will always happen. It is just good to be knowed. Just in case 🙂 Have a nice day 🤗
It's not a guarantee - the same rules still apply. The key to avoiding brush marks is multiple thin coats of paint. Using this for thinning acrylics will reduce paint opacity but will actually thicken the paint in terms of final finish. Water or some sort of purpose made thinning medium (such as Lahmian Medium) will likely be your best bet. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Great video. I'm new to modeling myself. So i have an acrylic base coat and wanted to enamel panel line it. Is it safe to future gloss coat it first, then enamel panel line, then panel wash it with some enamel thinner? I'd hate to ruin the base coat lol
Hi Xavier! Thanks so much for watching and commenting. Yes, you are right on track. Putting that acrylic gloss coat down will seal the base paint against the enamel thinners, protect the decals, and also make it very easy to clean up excess enamel. It is critical to make sure your gloss coat is dry. Once you've done it a few times, you'll see how fast it dries for your conditions. (Temperature, humidity, etc). I'd say to start with give it at least 24 hours, and even then test a small area. At that point, you should be good to go, though I would still avoid flooding the areas with thinner. Even though it is enamel over acrylic, which should not interact, it's still liquid... so moderation is good. Thanks again!
Hi. I make model rockets and paint with enamel. Thinking this may work for decals on that too. You said it works on enamel paint even tho it’s acrylic. Yes?
@@JonBius I’m going to give it a try. Also. How does it help with the decals? Is it it makes them slide better or stick better? And will it interact in some way with MicroSol and MicroSet?
@@orestesmayo-nc2hm A smooth surface is better for decals, so assuming the underlaying paint/material is not overly textured, adding a gloss coat will be a good sealer and "smoother" for decals. It will work fine with MicroSol and Set. (I actually use Solvaset, which is hotter.) Just don't flood it. You may find this video about decals that I released a while back helpful also: th-cam.com/video/lXg3S-nryTY/w-d-xo.html Thanks!
No, but I'm not a fan of gloss primers in general. Plus, it would not provide a neutral surface for later paint layers. And it would be difficult to spot blemishes, which is part of the primers purpose. Thanks for watching and commenting!
I don't know that adding anything to it would improve it. You could give it a try, of course. In my experience though, it sprays wonderfully right from the bottle. I think the biggest problem I see people having is in their application technique. Quite a few creators advise starting with a fine mist coat, and I think that is where the problem is. It requires a wet coat - not flooded so it runs, but definitely wet enough to allow it to level. It takes some trial and error to get it down. But like I said, give the glycerin a try. You never know! Thanks for watching and commenting!
In the US it's about $8 (WalMart), but I know getting it outside the US can be quite expensive. The manufacturer does sell it in some countries under different names. Check with your local modeling groups - they might be able to help. Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@JonBius its discontinued again so some stores claim to have it but when you go in store there is nothing i checked walmart, lowes, home depot i ended up buying it from a local store for 14 bucks
Question, does it lock up joints like, say you are too lazy to fully disassemble a gundam model kit. will it fuse the joint? i want to know, Mr hobby uv cut does not fuse it so I want to know
I think you'd really have to flood the surface for that to happen. The most I've had it do is tighten the joints up a bit, which is usually a good thing. But after a little articulation, that usually goes away. Thanks for watching and commenting!
There could be a number of things at play - moisture in the air, the underlying surface reacting - it's hard to say. I'd suggest testing a spot application in one area and seeing if it clears it up. I've never actually had that happen, but some folks who have reported it said that a second coat cleared things up. I hope that helps!
Floor polish is a very good product for all of the above reasons. Don't get in the Future mindset, any clear floor polish will work as well sense it isn't sold everywhere. You can even polish it for an even better shine, but you need several coats so you don't go through to the paint. It's also good for thinning cheap craft paints because they aren't really designed for plastic. It adds more adhesion.
Have you ever tried to use "future" to repair scratches on something like Lego? I've heard it can be used that way, but I've never seen a video. Does "future " add a lot of thickness to the coated item?
I've not used Future for that - that's an interesting question. How much of a "skin" it leaves depends on how it is applied. When applied by airbrush, it is very, very thin. A brush application will be a bit thicker, especially if it is a heavy brush load. The trouble is it's not "sandable" really. Still, it would not hurt to try I think. It can be easily removed with alcohol, which would not hurt the plastic. It might also be worth testing using various grades of sanding sticks to polish scratches out. I've done that on clear canopies and it works well. HTH! Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@JonBius Thank you for your reply. It's nice to know I could experiment with it without wrecking the Lego (Legos). I've been looking forward to trying "future", but wasn't confident enough until reading your response.
I use isopropyl alcohol. That will strip it off nicely. If any remains, a little lacquer thinner will finish it off. Thanks for watching and commenting!
If you're referring to adding a bit of color to it, absolutely... it can work well as a replacement for other acrylic washes. Inks tend to work best, though paint will work also. You'd want to experiment a bit with the ratios, of course. Thanks for watching and commenting. Grace and peace be with you!
@@JonBius Thank you, but I was wondering if you can paint over it as well, like layering over other acrylic paints, or if it's mainly used for washes/sealant over something that's already painted? For example, step-by-step: prime miniature, Future wash, paint over some of that wash with paint, seal entire model with Future, and then a matte varnish over everything? Thanks.
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Can’t say much I’ve learned from your videos. Best on TH-cam.
Thank you so much for such kind words! And thanks for watching and commenting! 😃
I was getting ready to use Future for the first time, so I found your video. Great information! I had a 40 year old build that had been stored away and had fallen apart and got covered in dust and gunk. I washed all the parts and scrubbed them with a tooth brush. When they dried they looked very dull. So I scrubbed them again with q-tips and water and found there was still a dirty film on them. So I repeated untils my Q-tips didn't get dirty anymore. The models had had several coats of Pactra clear with gold mist over black and it still looked dull. So after rebuilding them, I just now put the pledge over them and they look 100 times better! I will be displaying them at the Pony Express NNL meet in Elwood, Kansas, this Saturday, November 6th, 2021. It will be fun to show my rare El Toro funny car and hauler at the show. Thanks for your help!
I'm so glad the video was helpful! And it sounds like a very cool project. Have fun at the meet!
Thanks for watching and commenting!
El Toro as in the Humphrey Bogart film?
Great video - like the person below, this answered ALL of my questions about using it and also removed my fear of trying it. I've been building models casually off and on since I was 8 years old (71 now!) and I want to take my kits to a higher level of finish by adding more details. Thanks for all the great info - now I don't have to watch any more videos on it to convince myself! Subscribed!
Glad it was helpful! And thanks so much for letting me know - that is always a great encouragement.
Enjoy the journey!
Thanks for the sub, and for watching and commenting. 😊
It's a shame to see informative videos like this only getting >1000 likes. Good stuff. Thank you.
Glad you liked it! I am grateful! Please do share - it really helps me out.
If you've not seen it, I recently posted a video that focuses on airbrushing Pledge. th-cam.com/video/uMPWVuAlZiw/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for watching and commenting! Happy day to you. 😊
G'day Jon, Thank you for clearing up several points of confusion for me. I'm getting back into modelling as a retired bloke after only making a handful of models since I was a teenager. So much has changed in kit modelling over the years but the basics are still the same. I often heard people talking about 'Future' and 'Pledge', even others talking about 'floor wax' for glossing or semi-glossing their models. I have no idea what, if anything, was being used down here in Australia. I always just used to use model products for gloss finishes. We don't use floor covering products here at home so I didn't have a clue, but I was impressed with canopies and windows dipped in this flooring stuff.
All the videos I saw of Pledge were 5 years or more old and so when I went to look in the shops recently, I couldn't find anything that was even similar. Then I got on to some suppliers in the US, many of whom said this was the last stocks they were going to have of 'Pledge Care Finish'.
A couple of bottles, including freight worked out at over AUD$70 !
Finally, I found two bottles of 'Pledge Revive', which looks clear, from an Australian supplier at AUD$27 a bottle.
Thanks to you now know the other uses there are for this product and it I will love anything that makes applying decals easier. Decals were always a problem for me when I started modelling as a kid.
So, thank you again for this valuable information. I'll now take a look at your other videos and I'll subscribe.
All the best to you. Cheers, BH
Hi Bill! Thank you so much for such and encouraging reply! I'm very glad this video was helpful to you. It's a simple yet so useful product, and I've been using it for 14 years on around 350 models and just love it.
If I can be of help as you explore applying it, please don't hesitate to contact me on my site's Contact form. (www.jonbius.com)
Have fun as you get back into the hobby! Thanks for the comment and the subscribe! :D
Hi Bill, you might want to try Pascoe's Long Life (from Bunnings). it seems to work for me. All the best.
@@geevo253 G'day Geevo, Thanks very much for that info. I'll head off to Bunnings this week. I was getting low on the expensive stuff and was just about to order more. You've saved me many $$ ! Thanks, mate! Cheers, Bill
Thank you. Great video. I was having a tough time with brush strokes and Pledge. Now I know I was babying it and wasnt putting enough on my brush
It definitely takes some experiments to get it down right. Practice varying amounts and application methods on scrap and see what works best. Have fun with it!
And thanks for watching and commenting!
Haha, I lost it when he pulled out all the bottles and was like, I got a lifetime supply. LOL Thank you for posting this, was really helpful!
Glad you liked it! :D
I did kinda buy a few too many... LOL
Thanks for watching and commenting!
I know the feeling. I wanted to try it a while back but couldn't find any nearby, so I ordered it from Amazon. Turned out I ordered six bottles. Now I have to keep building models for the rest of my life whether I want to or not. LOL
That works! 😊
Have fun - thanks for watching and commenting!
I love how the two photography lamps look like ufo flying saucers around your head.
Real great video - It wasn’t like a rant as you feared as it was concise, smooth, and efficient not to mention without any fluff.
Grand information as I hadn’t the slightest idea it could be used for photo-etch adherence - Thank You, that was something I’ve been getting so frustrated with. That is, concerning acceptable adherence with those pieces consistently.
Very grateful.
Also, thank you for clearing up the ‘water/thin it down’ bs. As a product to work as expected you don’t want to interfere with it’s composition - But also it has ever such brilliant viscosity pure out the bottle - perfect for ab and brush.
Thanks so much for your kind words, and I'm so glad you found it useful! That's always my primary goal.
Thanks for watching and commenting - happy day to you friend!
Thank you from England. That was the best explanatory video I've seen, not in the slightest bit boring and easy to follow. When I want to get on quickly, I use my travel hair dryer. But have you heard this one? Pledge (I'm English) as a decal fixer. I literally watched a demo before finding your video and it came out better than a certain sol and set double act if you get my meaning. I also dip my canopies in it. Thanks again.
Thanks for the kind words! Yes, I do use it as a fixer at times, as well as for canopy dips, p/e "glue", and many other uses. It's a great multi-use product!
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Great video! I have two anecdotal Future tidbits that folks might also be interested in:
1) I found Future to be one of the only top-coats that won't dull a really shiny chrome. Did a battery of tests with about a half dozen different varnishes over Molotow Liquid Chrome, and basically all of them dulled that glorious mirror finish to the point that it looked like a bog-standard acrylic silver paint, except for Future, which TBH did dial down the Molotow's reflectiveness very slightly, but the difference was night and day compared to the other top-coats I tested. You could still see yourself pretty clearly in the Future-coated chrome. Have heard Alclad's gloss coat might also be able to pull it off, but don't have access to it; the other gloss coats I did have on hand to test (Vallejo Acrylic, Vallejo Polyurethane, Liquitex, Citadel 'Ardcoat, and Testor's) all failed, though.
2) It might be durable but it does seem to be relatively permeable, at least by some things. I had used chipping solution on a kit, and sealed it with Future before doing decals. One or both of my decal solutions was definitely able to seep through the Future and re-active the chipping solution. Next time I do chipping solution or hairspray chipping I'm definitely going to try sealing that step with something a bit hardier like polyurethane or lacquer; chipping solution (or hairspray) is specifically intended to be easy to re-activate, which is how it lifts the paint layer above it, so it seems to need a sealant that'll keep the rest of your modeling products from reaching it, and Future doesn't seem quite up to that job.
Thanks! And thank you for passing along that info!
Great video! I've been following your stuff for quite awhile now and encouraged to see a video like this surface without the unneeded criticism of others or other products. There are social media groups probably enraged with keyboard warriors already on why not to use future this morning.....that cult is crazy! I've always stayed clear of the arguments because they go nowhere and I don't need to win an internet war on the subject. When you know the uses of a product and how it benefits the modeling process, you can model happily. You have hit all the critical points......well done and thorough!
Thank you so much! I appreciate it greatly! :D
Very helpful video. I have recently gotten back into building model cars again and never knew about Future, or Pledge floor gloss as a shine enhancer or top gloss coat. I got out a model that I built more than 20 years ago and did a little restoration on it. It was already clear coated with decals under the clear coat and I used a brush and liberally applied the floor gloss and was astounded at how the model shined so much better, and is protected for many years to come. I am restoring a MPC 1972 Roadrunner model for a friend of mine and have already applied decals and clear coat. When I finish it, it will also have a nice protective cover of floor gloss. Thanks for this helpful video!!!!
Thanks so much for watching and commenting! And I'm so glad you found it helpful. It is a very useful and affordable way to get things done!
First time watcher and very appreciative of the info, cleared up a few Future myths for me, many thanks. Consider me subscribed !
Awesome! Thanks so much! I'm glad it was helpful. 😊
Just discovered your channel and you got a thumbs up and my subscription! Yes back in the day when we heard they (Pledge) was going to stop making it LOL yeah I too had a case. I was introduced to this technic years and years ago by an Elder friend of my Church who was absolutely a master modeler, he taught me a lot of cool tricks I don't see people doing or they do it a different way which is great as it's the language of the Hobby. My friend has long since past he was a neat guy. So let me tell you something else you can do with Future or be it Kleer or Revive It, this was one of my friends tricks. You can dip plastic clear parts in it to make them appear like Glass, the more dip layers the Glass look however 1 or 2 dips (of course letting it dry between dips) is all you really need, as too many layers and it might not fit into place very well. The best part to this tip/trick not only will your vehicle windscreen look like actual glass BUT best part here: the Future protects the plastic from fogging or hazing when you glue it in place! As we know if not careful it's easy to fog or haze clear parts with modeling glue. Even glues that say they don't fog or haze it can still happen on clear plastic parts. Thank you for posting and reading this. Hope everyone has an awesome Day!
Yep - the old plastic canopy dip! I've done that many a time when I did aircraft builds. Works like a charm.
Wonderful to read of a brother passing this along!
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Thanks Jon for the sage and practical advice. I'm just now getting back into scale models after being a dormant hobby for 40 years your channel is most helpful to get me up to speed again.
Thanks so much - I am grateful for your kind comments! And it is great to hear it's been helpful. 😊
Have fun with the hobby. Welcome back to it!
@@JonBius I'm in the same boat as Mike K. Getting back after about 40 years. So much "new" stuff to learn about. This video was one of those. Thanks
@@stevemarrs4609 Thanks so much - I'm glad you found it helpful! And thanks for watching and commenting!
My "stash" started with my 1:48 B-25, B-17 and B-24. Thanks to ebay it (stash) has grown to 27 planes. Still working on getting a B-58 and a B-2. Had to go with 1:72 on the B-52, B-1 and the SR-71. B-52 is on the bench. My airbrush is calling! :)
@@JonBius
@@stevemarrs4609 Have fun!
Thanks Jon. Really liking your channel. Well done all the way around and very pleasantly presented. Got my three Pledge bottles! I'm 66, here in Virginia, so a lifetime supply for sure. Working well so far. Liked and subscribed. Keep em coming bro! My final coat for my planes is Mr Hobby matt so should I use Pledge as my final gloss coat before the matt or not? If you said in the video I may have missed it.
Awesome, thank you! I am grateful for your kind words, and that you're enjoying the channel. Thanks for subscribing, watching, and commenting too. Happy day to you!
+1 for the Caddy Shack reference. :) And a helpful video as well.
Thanks so much! I'm glad you picked up on it! 😁
And thank you so much for the kind words, and for watching and commenting!
Well done Jon, you provided me with some useful information on the product and answered the question I had. I model in N-scale and intent to use Future as a sealer for wood that has peel and stick items and also needs to be painted.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks so much for your kind words, and for watching and commenting. 😊
@@JonBius By the way the pledge did seal the wood and the project turned out great.
Hi John, love all your videos. You're the best for practical, useful videos. I have a question re using Pledge...Another TH-cam presenter said that Pledge yellows over time, esp, noticeable on models w/ white paint. Have you ever encountered this?
Thanks so much for your kind words words! I am grateful!
I have heard that for years, but I've never had it happen. What I have seen is white paint turn yellowish, and I suspect it's due to exposure to sunlight, the general dust and so forth that can build up, and even the subtle build up of smoke residue from cooking oil, etc.
I have a few models dating back to 2006, and aside from the dust build up, the color is the same - even over the white decals.
I think the key for long term storage is avoiding any direct/bright light, and keeping them dusted and cleaned. Regardless of whether Pledge is used.
Older bottles of Pledge can turn a bit darker, but in the micron thin application we do in the hobby, I've never felt it altered the finish.
I hope that helps. Thanks for the question, for your kind words, and for watching and commenting! Happy day to you!
love the Caddy Shack reference in an otherwise serious video. Nice.
Thanks for noting that! 😊
And thanks for watching and commenting!
Good stuff, Jon. I've also used Future to float decals onto a model with good success. My best success when using it as a paint sealing coat has been using it at a low pressure and building up coats gradually. I tried one coat the first time I used it and it beaded up on me...flat freaked me out. It leveled out, but after that I went with gradual coats.
Thanks! Yeah, after I edited this I had a "DOH!" moment when I realized I forgot to mention the decal trick! 😅
Great video. Thank you for the information. I was watching a model assembly video and they used future and my reaction was “what the heck is that?”. Now I know. I am just getting back into modeling after 25 years so that I can teach my son (and enjoy it myself). Tips and info like in this video are fantastic.
Thanks so much - I am glad you found it useful!
And I love that you're not only back in the hobby, and that you're teaching your son too. When my son was living at home, we built models together, and that was so much fun.
Check out my Weathering Scale Models playlist - you might find that helpful - th-cam.com/play/PLZt56FNuWOKfHs6gaqKR2V-g2nq1B7DZM.html
Thanks again for watching and commenting. 😊
this video deserves so much more love, the in depth explanations and examples were great.
Thank you so much! I'm so grateful! And I'm so happy you found the video helpful. :D
Hopefully in due time it will get more views, etc. I appreciate the view and the comment - every little bit helps. Have a great day!
Hey, Jon I’m spraying acrylics currently going to invest in some lacquer paints later on. But will pledge be ok to enamel wash over and not mess up the acrylic paint job underneath?
@@tajaygordon9358 Yes! It works great for that. I've done that all the time. Just be sure and give the Pledge enough time to dry - 24 hours is plenty - and don't flood the model with wash. Put on what's needed, and clean/blend as required.
Also, for the Pledge to be most effective, try to make sure the paint underneath is as smooth as possible. Sometimes I'll use a soft cotton t-shirt to lightly buff the paint before applying Pledge. Not enough to rub the paint off, but just to remove any light texture.
Have fun Tajay! Thanks so much for watching my videos! :D
Jon Bius awesome! Thanks for the quick reply. I’ve been painting no grade models for practice. Moving onto my high grade kits next and want to practice washing. So this is a huge help for me. 🙏🏾
@@tajaygordon9358 Glad to help!
Fantastic video!!!!! I race 1:28 kyosho mini z cars. These have styrene bodies just like the model cars we all love to build.
In racing the bodies get scratches, and paint rub just like the real cars. There Future videos has shown that I now have a coating that will shine, and be abrasion resistant. Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge!!!!!!!!👍👍👍
Thanks so much! I am grateful for your kind words, and that you left a comment.
What a cool way to use it! I remember watching NASCAR - "if you ain't rubbin', you ain't racin'!" 😁 Hope that works well for you!
Great video. I screwed up a future utility coat with decal setting solution and blamed the future...turns out it was me. Any acrylic clear would have done the same thing. Its been great to work with so far...a second coat got it back up to snuff. Keep it up...really enjoying the channel.
Thanks so much for your kind words! I am grateful. And thanks for watching and commenting!
Coming back to the hobby after many years away (I just turned 72 on July 3rd), and I love your channel. So down to earth. Refreshing to see that. I have a question tho...if I use future or pledge or even quick shine, will that lens a bit of gloss to an acrylic paint that would otherwise be more of a matte finish?
Thanks so much for your kind words, and welcome back to the hobby!
Yes, a drop of gloss will give a nice shine to lenses.
Thanks so much for watching and commenting - happy day to you!
And don’t forget about using it for dipping canopies to make them crystal clear. Great video.
Oh yes! I've done that many a time.
Thanks so much for your kind words, and for watching and commenting! Have a great day. :)
Doesn't it yelkover time?
Not so far. I have one model that's been on my shelf for 14+ years, and its had no yellowing at all.
Quite a bit of dust though. 😉😂
@@JonBius so why does it turn yellow in the bottle I wonder
@@JonBius maybe the plastic on bottle has yellow.
I'll check
I am a figure modeler. When I was doing my heaviest volume of work about 20 years ago, I would typically use Future for things like finished eyes, the inside of mouths, female lips, open wounds, blood stains, etc. It would be great for this because Future would lay down fluidly and not disturb any washes or dry coats, unlike Testors gloss cote that would lift or dissolve them. Now that I'm getting back into the hobby, I remembered that Future was transformed into Pledge floor gloss, which has also been discontinued and replaced with Pledge floor care. It's so aggravating. Anyway, I just wanted to say thanks for making a clear concise video covering this.
It's so very useful, isn't it? I hate that they're not making it anymore. Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
@@JonBius Has anyone tried the other water-based acrylic floor finishes? I've noticed many competing products are milky out of the bottle and dry clear, where Future is clear the whole time (except for the off-gassing period about 10-15 minutes in where your clear parts go a bit frosty temporarily as they cure!). I bought some called Quick Shine to use on the floor so that the rest of my Future can be reserved for modeling, tempted to try it on a scrap piece.
@@maximilian3004 I've not tried other brands, though others have told me they have successfully. I still have 2/3 of one bottle, and two additional full ones! 😁 So I'm set for a while.
@@JonBius Follow-up question on curing. I've noticed that regardless of how long a coat on the floor sits, prolonged water exposure (such as when my dog spills his water bowl) seems to reactivate the sealer and cause some sort of reaction that makes the finish milky...have you had issues with water touching a model coated in Future and having an adverse reaction? It doesn't take long for the water to stain the finish. Mopping the floor and refinishing seems to mask this problem.
I dipped my canopy yesterday afternoon but due to the vintage Airfix engineering and tolerances, the seams around the cockpit are going to need filling and sanding...worried the wet-sanding might frost the canopy after it's been glued in place.
Great video Jon, one thing to make sure to keep in mind, making sure to not use Mr hobby mark setter & softer on future clear finish because that stuff is too strong and it WILL pick up the color underneath the clear.
Good info! Thanks so much for watching and commenting! 😊
@@JonBius You welcome man, thanks for being awesome.
@@hasaki_art Thank you friend - that means a lot to me!
Great and useful video as ever Jon! As someone who is new back into modelling the world of varnishing is a minefield and the use of Pledge is a great one!
Thanks so much! Glad you enjoyed it.
@@JonBius Always do Jon
Absolutely great video brother. Definitely worth a watch. Thank you for all you do for the scale modeling community. God Bless.
Thank you! 😊
In my opinion Klear/Future/Pledge Revive It (or whatever they are calling it this week) is one of the best and most versatile modeling products out there. It's absolutely dirt cheap considering you are getting 750ml of the stuff. It looks great as a final coat, it works great as a base coat sealer prior to decals and weathering, it clears up canopies and glass windows/headlights/rear lights brilliantly. It also rather smells nice when spraying it. I've heard it works great brushed on although I've never done that myself. I've often put Future on a model, even military vehicles, with the intention of putting decals and weathering on it then finishing with a dull or matte coat. Then ultimately not even bothering, but instead sealing the decals and weathering with another coat of Future and calling the model finished. I can't even really explain why, as it doesn't strictly look "real" - But it looks good. Only fellow modelers would look at these and think "that model isn't done" or "it doesn't look realistic enough". Non-modeling people all universally praise the appearance. Hell I just finished a Tamiya M41 Walker Bulldog tank where this happened. I fully intended to finish it with a dull coating but I think it looks great with the Future semi-gloss coating. I have no desire or need to put anything else over top of it.
It is a great product for sure!
Thanks for watching and commenting.
Great review!!!! I use it on a regular basis before and after decaling and washes, super easy to use and way more durable than gloss model paints, I won't use anything else this is a must for modellers!
Thanks so much for your kind words, and for watching and commenting!
It is a great product that I recommend for every modeler. Have a great day!
Reviving this thread... I just discover you Jon, as I am looking for the best ways for me to apply my home made decals not on models, but on guitar effect pedals or "stomp boxes". Looking for something non smelling that I could apply with a brush, indoor, until spring brings back milder temperatures (then I can work outside or in my unheated barn)
It might be interesting to list the history of FUTURE and the various iterations or avatars of this product. Sticking to the SC JOHNSON brands, I have sourced in France a bottle of PLIZ "Sublime" that French modelers swears is the same as Pledge or Future. It does make a nice coating indeed.
WIKIPEDIA lists some informations too.
But other sources seem to indicate that the newer products from SC Johnson are not the same, as they would have to get rid of some nasty components now banished (REACH compliance or something). Maybe we'll never know....
Thanks for watching my video and commenting!
I don't know what to advise you about the SCJ products there, as it seems almost every country has slightly different names and formulas. Certainly consult with modelers who use the product.
You might also look for modeling branded glosses. Those can be brushed on too, and are no or no odor. Check brands like Vallejo, AK Interactive, etc.
Good look in your project!
I'm gonna have to give this one a try. Thanks.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
That was a great vid Jon. Been using Future for years as well. Totally agree you regarding the utilitarian use of Future.
Thanks so much!
Great explanation video! Pledge revive it it's my go to top coat. Airbrushes just fine, I keep hot water close by to rinse and flush then usual AB cleaner. Let pledge dry 24 hrs. If matt finish is desired, I found buffing coat with laundry sheet does the job! (Yes, sounds crazy. But, after the last year we had, necessity became the mother of trying new ideas out...🤷) hope this helps. P.S. forgot to mention. Using a used laundry sheet works best!
Good to know! Thanks for watching and commenting! 😊
Another helpful video Jon! Thank you!
My pleasure! I'm glad it was helpful.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Really like your video and was wondering if acrylic thinner, Tamiya, will damage the future as I'm trying to blend acrylic or enamel washes. I am also returning to modeling and begin to feel overloaded after spending several hours on TH-cam watching videos. Was a lot easier when I was a kid and just built them for something to do. Now I want to put much more time and effort (plus models I built as a kid cost about 3 dollars and now sell for 30.00 :). I have been building mostly tanks and am struggling with the weathering aspect of my builds. Hobby clear coats are expensive and I'd rather spend that money on my next model ! I like the straight forward way you describe how and why to use Future and I am a new subscriber to your channel. Thanks !
Thanks so much for watching, commenting, and subscribing - I am grateful! And thank you for your kind words. 😊
Tamiya's thinner (X-20A or lacquer) would likely be a bit to "hot" for Future. Their enamel thinner should work in conjunction with enamels, thought it is quite hot also.
There is a lot of material out there, some helpful, some not so much. (I hope mine is the former! 😁)
Since you are returning to the hobby, I'll guess you may not have invested a lot yet into too many products. What I'd recommend is to get a few good acrylic weathering products (from Vallejo for example) and a few enamel or oil washes. (I prefer oils.) Some dark browns and earth colors are a good start. Work on learning the characteristics of each, and how they interact with each other. Those basic principles will then help you "build up" from there.
Check out this video I put out a while back - it's basically a "playbook" of weathering. It may help spark some ideas. (th-cam.com/video/lWLuy5mAK0A/w-d-xo.html)
If I can be of help, please don't hesitate to contact me through my blog - jonbius.com.
Thanks again for watching and commenting!
Just found your channel, great discussion on Future (Pledge)or whatever. 😅 I enjoyed listening. By the way, do you gloss coat (TS-13 for instance) over the top of Future?
Thanks so much - I'm glad you enjoyed it!
For the work I do, Future is simply a utility gloss coat - it's added on to allow for other things to take place, such as adding decals, washes, etc. If I were wanting a final gloss coat on a model - something that needed to be shiny, like a car - I'd use something else, like TS-13. I've not ever done that though, as my models tend to all be weathered.
My assumption is that it would work, as a fully cured acrylic coat is very durable. And I've applied lacquer based products over acrylics, and that worked OK. As long as the acrylic was cured, and the lacquer product was not flooded on, it worked.
Still, I'd recommend testing it on some spare parts, just to make sure.
Thanks again for watching and commenting!
Important trick I use! Keep a micro handheld cigarette torch nearby. The type that you press down and instantly ignites a small blue torch flame. As I paint on future, I always get lots of bubbles. I quickly blast the work with the micro torch and bam! Bubbles gone! Just a quick blast from not so near a distance!
Sorry I'm late. Just wanted to add that i like to use future/pledge to make candy/transparent paints to airbrush like ghost flames, smoke, 3D, etc. I also like to use temporary tattoos for hood murals. Future/pledge gives a great surface for them. Great video btw
Cool stuff! I've seen car builders put it to great use - there are so many applications!
Thanks for your kind words, and for watching and commenting!
Just getting into airbrushing for personal use as just took early retirement so do you mix the pledge with the paint to make your candies or do you have a link to a how to any advice is much appreciated respect
@@sprockylock391 I don't know that it would work well to produce a candy coat. I'd recommend using proper modeling glosses and candy coats for that. Adding Future would make it glossy, but it would not be the deep shine usually associated with a candy coat.
Thanks for watching and commenting, and enjoy your retirement!
Just got into modeling it is my retirement hobby. I found your video to be most helpful, thank you! Need know more about washes?
Hey Norm! Congratulations on your retirement!
And thanks for watching my video, commenting, and for your kind words. I am most grateful, and so happy you found it helpful.
Take a look at this playlist of various videos I've released that cover weathering. Several of them go through using washes, panel lines, etc., so hopefully those can be useful.
th-cam.com/play/PLZt56FNuWOKfHs6gaqKR2V-g2nq1B7DZM.html
Thanks again, and I hope you have a wonderful retirement enjoying this great hobby!
A very interesting and informative video once again. Do you know if a Two Part Resin would adhere to the surface after Airbrushing Pledge on to it? Would the adhesion from the Pledge stop the Two Part Resin from chipping off? I don't know what I'm doing wrong, I apply 2 or 3 coat's of Pledge then paint the piece by an AIRBRUSH, the paint is still scratching off! Thank you for sharing your knowledge it's so generous of you. Take care my friend 👍😷👍
Thanks so much! I'm glad you found it helpful.
I've never tried that actually. I'd recommend testing it on a piece of plastic scrap, or a test model, and see how it goes. I hope it works out well for you! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Thank you for a coherent video for us noobs. You are direct and you took away a lot of beginner fears. One question, your thought about combining with other products to give a matte finish at the end? Thanks in advance.
Thank you so much - I am grateful!
In my experience, adding matte additives doesn't do any better than just using a purpose made matte product. By the time I fiddled with the ratios and got all that sorted out, I could have applied a matte varnish and already be finished. (I like Vallejo Mecha Matte Varnish.)
Adding things to Future to create a matte finish works, but I felt it wasn't a better option in the end.
@@JonBius Thanks for the recommendation on the matte finish too!
No problem! Glad to help. 😊
I bought a couple of bottles around 2002, and still have them with me to all countries and cities where I lived ever since. Their shelf life seems to be eternal :)
They do last a long time, especially if stored away from light! Maybe I need to coat myself in that stuff... slow down the aging process! 🤣
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Great video Jon. Well explained.
Glad you liked it! Thank you so much for watching and commenting!
Enjoyed that …I just come out hospital
With a 2 month recovery here in UK.Decided to do a model kit after 30 years away from hobby and used something similar back then lol.
Great all the new stuff out there now.
Doing a Revell 1:144-400 747….This video confirmed to paint it Pledge it then decal and weather it then hit again with final pledge coat.
I don’t have air brush set up but seen a foam
Pad application and looked good ? Or would I advise stick to a good brush ?
Thx
Glad you're out of the hospital! I hope you do well in your recovery.
I'd opt for brush application. Don't flood it, but apply heavily enough to allow it to level.
Thanks for watching and commenting! Take care!
Good video. What are you using as a light filter in your desk lamps? I believe they are those clip lamps sold at the big home improvement store.
Thanks!
You are correct on the lights - just big clip-ons from the hardware store. At that time I was using a light gauze material - I think it was intended for silk-screening. However, I stopped using it, as testing showed it didn't seem to make much difference, and I was always knocking it off anyway! :)
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Cheers Jon, great info from a top bloke. Thanks a lot :)
Thanks so much! I appreciate your kind words.
Have a great day!
LOL. Jon, this answers so many questions for me... Questions I have been pursuing for days since I have gotten back to modeling after 30 years when I once had a bottle of actual FUTURE! Just one point of clarification. So in your experience I can use Pledge over and under both enamels and acrylics? What Me Worry? So looking forward to following you as I crank my modeling back up again.
Hi Dale! I'm so glad this has been helpful for you!
And yes - it works under and over acrylics and enamels. In both cases, make sure the acrylic or enamel has had sufficient time to cure. It's less of an issue over acrylics, but definitely needed over enamels. Otherwise cracks can form in subsequent payers as the enamels gas out.
Hope that helps!
Hi John, just subscribed and have seen you stuff on the Internet and have been enjoying your builds. I do have a question: can I spray a gloss coat enamel over the finish? Also, can I use commercial flat spray coats like Krylon matte finish on my models?
Cheers
Thanks for watching and commenting! And double thank you for the sub and the kind words! I am grateful.
Yes, you can spray an enamel gloss coat over a model's finish - generally. There are caveats, of course... everything must be dry and cured, the gloss coat should not be flooded on, etc. If you've never used it before, I'd test it on something to make sure there are no negative interactions.
I don't know about the Krylon matte over your model, as I've never tried it. The one time I've heard of it being used, the modeler said it frosted a bit, leaving white patches. I have no idea if it was an application problem, a bad chemical interaction, or what. As with anything, test extensively.
In general, it's best to stick with modeling specific products, though that's obviously not a hard and fast rule! :D
Hi Jon, Great Video, Thanks. Sadly, we down under can't get Future (or it's incarnations) so we make sure anyone going to the US grabs a bottle or two to ration amongst my club. I always brush it as I can't seem to spray it well, what PSI do you spray it at ? The "experten" here also advise to add a couple of drops of "Windex" (ammonia based window cleaner) to the color cup when spraying, they tell me it makes it flow better, whatdoyareckon, or do you think this would be like the alcohol ? Many thanks & Blessings, Phill
(PS. Your workspace is just simply too organised !)
Hey Phill! :D I always spray it right out of the bottle, no thinning, at about 18 psi. Windex (or any ammonia) has the same effect as alcohol - it breaks down the acrylic stuff in the product. It's good for cleaning (though I'm told it can strip the airbrushes chrome), but I'd avoid thinning Future.
Another great informative video Jon!
Thank you!
Thanks! Your post was very helpful. What about using Future for making canopies and windshields clearer? I’ve seen people dunking and wicking it to make plastic look like glass
Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
Yep! That works quite well!
Two key points - always make sure to wick away the excess by holding it with tweezers on one corner, and letting the other corner just barely touch a paper towel. Then set it on the paper towel and cover it with a plastic container or similar so that no dust will settle on it as it dries.
But it works really well!
Droppin' the knowledge as always!
Thanks so much! :D
Nice straight talk on the topic. Ever toss a matte paint over the future? (For vents, window trim, etc.)
Thanks so much!
Yes, I do that all the time! I rarely leave my models with a glossy finish, so generally I either use weathering products that matte the finish down, or I apply a satin or matte coat. Often I'll let all three appear on a model, as that's often seen in "real life". The rule of cool definitely applies! :)
Thanks again for watching and commenting!
Thanks so much Jon, very helpful.
Thank you so much! I am grateful!
I'm looking for an alternative to polyurethane to 'dip' my miniatures in, because polyurethane has the yellowing issue.. Right now I'm toying with using Polycrilic, but I'm not confident in it's durability. I want a super strong coating I can toss the models into a bag together. Would you say this floor sealer is more durable than minwax polycrilic? Thanks!
I have no idea if it's a polycrilic - I don't even know what that is! LOL The best I could tell you is if it's readily available, get some and give it a try. At worst, you can apply it to your floors. If it's not readily available, perhaps check in some local or online groups and see if anyone else has used it that way. It sounds like it would work, though I would be concerned about it pooling.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Great! Keep rambling!
Thanks so much! I am grateful. 😊
Thanks for this video, JOn!
You are welcome! Thank you so much for watching and commenting!
I really like your style! This video helped me a lot (Im a car kit modeller)! Subscribing!
Thank you so much - I appreciate that! I'm so glad you found it helpful.
And thanks for commenting and subscribing too! :)
Awesome video thanks.👍
I'm glad you liked it! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Jon, is there a way to turn future into a flat acrylic? I mean can you add something to it so we can use it as flat varnish? Thanks
You can add Tamiya Flat Base (XF-21) to it. Different mix ratios will yield anything from slightly less glossy to drop dead flat.
I used it a few times, but found it was quicker to grab a purpose made Matt varnish. But it does work.
Hope that helps - thanks for watching and commenting!
Hi Jon Thank you so much for this video, I just started using future on my air dry clay and I use it instead of resin because I heard that resin is super toxic for the lungs and I got scared. I First use future and then after it dried modpodge. Do you think future is toxic too? It doesnt say anything on the bottle and I couldnt find any Information
I will Follow your tip and use it straight from the bottle, Thank you so much! Keep up the good work ☀️
Thanks so much! I'm glad you found the video helpful.
If you're airbrushing, always wear a respirator, regardless of what you're spraying. Anything atomized is a potential danger. For brush painting, it's fine as it is.
I don't know of it's "official" toxicity. I wouldn't drink it for sure! :D
Can I please add one more point, the reason Decals "Sliver" is because there is a small amount of air between the decal and the surface, so that's why we gloss up our models ahead of decalling to create a smoother surface (Matt surfaces are inherently rough). Silvering is usually most likely to be obvious on darker colors, particularly black, obviously on a silver surface... well who cares :-) Another solution I have used in conjunction with Future is to wet the area to be decalled with watered down white glue, the white glue will fill any remaining air gaps and as it dries clear will help eliminate slivering. I have used this on AFVs straight over a matt finish many times with great success.
Yeah! GOod advice! When I finished this video, I had a Homer Simpson "DOH!" moment and thought "decals!" :D But yes - the "Future puddle" method works great on decals. Thanks for posting this - good info!
Very informative, thank you.
Thank you! And thanks for watching and commenting!
An absolute MUST on clear window/canopy. It really makes that clear plastic look amazingly clear, and protects it from dulling and dust. Just fantastic. Dries in a few minutes. Several coats at the same time is just fine.
On paint, it's far better than nothing and just as good as cheap spray clear gloss. It gives a decent shine and gloss on any paint. Unless you got a very VERY good glossy paint coat, Future/Pledge will improve it. But the best Future/Pledge coat will not beat a decent/good clear gloss enamel or lacquer. Future/Pledge is way easier to apply and to maintain though. If you're not going for show quality or a gold medal look, then Future/Pledge is so worth it. If you want that deep/wet/dimensional look, don't use Future/Pledge as your final.
Also, spraying clearcoat over Pledge/Future isn't a great idea. It can work, it can also wrinkle/pucker or even dull out.
It also looks great on tires/wheels! GIves them that glossy, new, detailed look.
But for us everyday modellers, Future/Pledge is fast, easy, and turns out just great. You can even brush it on! Honest. Give it a try. Make sure your brush is new or very clean, use a nice wide, soft, flat brush and really slop it on so that it runs off. Even on a completed model kit. Just brush it on and let the excess drip off, making sure you get those drips off the bottom edges.
It's very hard, seals well, and doesn't dull or go satin.
I get great results by using an eyedropper to drip more on while it levels out, thickening the coat. Use the dropper to suck up any dust motes and drip them into the trash.
Be sure your paint is FULLY DRY. If not, you will get wrinkles and puckers almost every time. GIve that fresh paint a week to dry out. Three days if a thin pain job using fast drying paint. I'll often do the body paint first, then build, then after a long dry time, I Future/Pledge the heck out of it. I don't even use lacquer/gloss unless I want that deeper dimensional look - but I still Future/Pledge every window on every model and most tires. I haven't sprayed Future/Pledge since I got good at dripping/brushing the Future/Pledge.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
The first time that I used Future, I made the mistake of spraying a light coat. There was a lot of orange peel. The next day, I tried again and went all out. It dried great!
Yeah, it definitely requires a bit of a wet coat. That whole "key coat" notion works for some things, but definitely not Future!
Thanks for watching and commenting!
You just answered every question I had about this stuff, all I need to do now is find some! Someone tell me where and what its called in the UK please ?
Thanks so much! I am so glad this was helpful.
I *think* it's called "Pledge Revive It" in the UK, but I'm not 100% positive. Check in some UK based model groups or forums and they can likely point you in the right direction.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Can I use this thing on my decast model car collection to prevent paint rashes. I would really appreciate your answer and explanations. Cause a lot of decast model collector hate paint rashes, and try to find a way to prevent it happening.
I don't know unfortunately. I've never used it on those. I don't think it would hurt the finish, but I don't know if it would prevent rashes in the paint.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Gof some great tips ( air pressure, thinning ), PS- Got the King of the Hill refrence
Good stuff to know. I liked the "Caddy Shack" reference. The quote by Bill Murray. If you don't know what it is, I'm not going to explain it to you. You just have to watch the whole movie. You'll see it, then you'll know!!!
Thanks! 😊
That's one of my all time favorite movies!
I make pieces of stone jewelry and use a product called rub and buff for special effects. Being that Rub and Buff basically is hardened carnauba wax infused with metallic mica, I'm thinking that Pledge revive it floor gloss would make for great extra protection as a finishing coat. What's your opinion? Oh, and very informative thank you.
Hey Bob! Thanks for watching and commenting. And thank you for your kind words too!
It would depend on how shiny the finish was before the Pledge was applied. While it is a gloss coat, it's not the shiniest finish you could put on. I'd definitely test it in that regard.
The other thing I'm not sure of would be how it would react with skin oil.Though it is acrylic, the heat and oil of a person's skin might wear it off. (Then again - I am speculating - it might not! :) )
Have you tried a more durable sealant, one designed to be very shiny? I'm wondering if a lacquer gloss coat would be better for that work - like the spray can Mr. Color stuff.
Hope this speculation helps, maybe sparks an idea!
Thanks again, and happy day to you!
Jon thanks so much, you really cleared up a lot of my questions. But I do have one. If I use this on a foam rc aircraft, do my panel wash and weathering do see any problems air brushing a few coats of water based Matte Varathane? My plane is an FW 190-A8 and I don’t want a glossy look to it. Thanks again for that very informative video.
Thank you so much for watching and commenting - I am grateful! And thank you for your kind words. :D
I'm not sure on that one - I've not built RC aircraft, so I've never tested that combination of products. Best advice I can give is perhaps use some scrap foam, give it a coat of Pledge, let that cure, and then try the varathane. Because it is water based, my intuition is that things will be fine. I've applied lacquer coats over Pledge, and that did just fine, so I'm assuming anything water based is less harsh.
Interesting question! I hope that works out well for you!
Thanks for the great video on Plegde/Future, Jon. My question is, will a layer of Pledge seal enamel well enough that I can apply lacquer without crazing the enamel? Thank you!!!
Thanks so much for your kind words, and for watching and commenting.
I generally don't use enamels for a base paint, so I've not tried that order of application you mention. What I do know with regards to applying lacquers is that they can create issues with anything under them - even other lacquers - if you're not careful.
If you're airbrushing, then lighter mist coats are called for. I've applied lacquers over acrylic base coats (both paint and Pledge) without problems.
If you're planning on brushing lacquers on - test it first. When I brush paint lacquers, I've found that I can generally get away with a single "pass" of paint without activating what is underneath badly. (I've done this over lacquers, acrylics paint, and Pledge.) Once that is dry, I can apply a second coat.
Give that a test. I think that should do the trick for you though!
Excellent information thanks so much👍🇺🇸
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Hi Jon. This is a great video. For some reason, my Tamiya panel line washes doesn't flow smoothly on the Pledge gloss coat. I wonder if I have done something wrong. Appreciate if you can advise. Thanks!
Thanks so much - I'm glad you enjoyed it!
Several things could be going on - check to see if any of these apply:
- I've had washes that will get "thick" over time. Some of the liquid in them will evaporate. These don't tend to flow as well. Try either adding a bit of odorless thinner to the wash (on a palette), and checking if that improves flow.
- An alternate to that is that would be to apply odorless thinner along the panel line first, basically "pre-wetting" it. Then touch the wash into that area. That may help improve flow.
- If the underlying paint had a rough texture to it, even after applying the gloss coat, that texture can impede the flow. Many times I've found it helpful to very lightly buff the surface of a model with a piece of soft cotton t-shirt material. The smoother your surface, the more effective the gloss coat will work.
- Examine the gloss coat in bright light, shifting the angle of the model to allow it to reflect the light. Many times I've seen modelers will have a rough coat of gloss, which can be an indication of applying it in too light a layer, or from a bit too far away, which can result in a grainy appearance. (Often called "orange peel".) If it is grainy on the surface, it will be that way in the panel lines too.
- Some models have really shallow panel lines. I know some Hasegawa kits I've built had such petite panel lines that the gloss coat seemed to partially fill them, leaving little for the wash to even flow into. This can be especially troublesome, as it's not practical to rescribe at that point. I often switched to a very fine tip (.05 mm) pen!
Assuming you already have the gloss coat on, smoothing out the underlying paint is not practical I'd imagine. Try the first two options - thin the wash on a palette (just a bit at first), or "pre-wet" the panel lines. See how those work for you.
My typical application is to lightly buff the model a bit with a soft piece of cotton t-shirt, remove the lint with a brush or piece of detacked tape, and then apply the Pledge. My application is fairly heavy - it's not runny, but it is wet enough that the gloss has enough wetness to self-level. It takes some practice.
Feel free to contact me through the Contact link on my blog (jonbius.com) if you'd like to discuss it further. I hope this will help you! Have a great day!
@@JonBius Hi Jon. Thank you for your prompt response! I'll take a close look at the above advice. Cheers. bOOn
I'am not a future user (however I've tested it) by principle. Despite the argument of the cost saving I still don't understand why a lot of modeler use it for that reason as they have aside, spent tons of money to grow they stash with models and aftermarkets they will never build.
Anyhow, I have to admit that your video is well done and the subject well explained. Perhaps we could add this information: Some have reported some bad aging of the future (or whatever it is called). It took a yellowish tone. So if the model is intended to be kept a long time (perhaps exposed some hours to sun light), don't use future as your final clear coat.
Best regards,
Olivier.
Thanks for watching and commenting! I am grateful for your kind words!
I actually addressed that topic in a later video - check it out here: th-cam.com/video/uMPWVuAlZiw/w-d-xo.html
@@JonBius In fact, the exemple I saw in picture was a clear coat of future on top of a metallic shade on the belly of a F-15.
Just to say that it seems that it can occur, not to say that it will always happen. It is just good to be knowed. Just in case 🙂
Have a nice day 🤗
@@olivieraubault1994 Thanks!
I got that going for me.... like the Dali lama granting total consciousness on your death bed?? Lol 🤣🤣🤣
Gunga galunga … gunga, gunga lagunga. 🤣
Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@JonBius I subscribed too!!
@@daveelliott6230 Awesome - thanks!
When using it to thin acrylics for brush paint will the brush marks self level i wonder?
It's not a guarantee - the same rules still apply. The key to avoiding brush marks is multiple thin coats of paint. Using this for thinning acrylics will reduce paint opacity but will actually thicken the paint in terms of final finish. Water or some sort of purpose made thinning medium (such as Lahmian Medium) will likely be your best bet.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Great video. I'm new to modeling myself. So i have an acrylic base coat and wanted to enamel panel line it. Is it safe to future gloss coat it first, then enamel panel line, then panel wash it with some enamel thinner? I'd hate to ruin the base coat lol
Hi Xavier! Thanks so much for watching and commenting.
Yes, you are right on track. Putting that acrylic gloss coat down will seal the base paint against the enamel thinners, protect the decals, and also make it very easy to clean up excess enamel.
It is critical to make sure your gloss coat is dry. Once you've done it a few times, you'll see how fast it dries for your conditions. (Temperature, humidity, etc). I'd say to start with give it at least 24 hours, and even then test a small area. At that point, you should be good to go, though I would still avoid flooding the areas with thinner. Even though it is enamel over acrylic, which should not interact, it's still liquid... so moderation is good.
Thanks again!
Cool. Thanks for sharing Jon
You're welcome! Thanks for watching!
Hi. I make model rockets and paint with enamel. Thinking this may work for decals on that too.
You said it works on enamel paint even tho it’s acrylic. Yes?
You are correct! Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@JonBius I’m going to give it a try.
Also. How does it help with the decals? Is it it makes them slide better or stick better?
And will it interact in some way with MicroSol and MicroSet?
@@orestesmayo-nc2hm A smooth surface is better for decals, so assuming the underlaying paint/material is not overly textured, adding a gloss coat will be a good sealer and "smoother" for decals. It will work fine with MicroSol and Set. (I actually use Solvaset, which is hotter.) Just don't flood it.
You may find this video about decals that I released a while back helpful also: th-cam.com/video/lXg3S-nryTY/w-d-xo.html
Thanks!
@@JonBius thank you. You’ve been very helpful and nice to get a quick response. 😊😊😊
@@JonBius one more question. Does this then replace a product like MicroSet and MicroSol?
Good videos about a great clear coat, but can/have you tried it as a primer?
No, but I'm not a fan of gloss primers in general. Plus, it would not provide a neutral surface for later paint layers. And it would be difficult to spot blemishes, which is part of the primers purpose.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Ron Brown
Just came across your video. Very refreshing to get some down-to-earth straight talk.
I'm glad you liked it! Thanks for watching and commenting.
Be sure and check out my other videos. Thank you!
What about adding a couple of drops of glycerin to improve spraying properties?
I don't know that adding anything to it would improve it. You could give it a try, of course. In my experience though, it sprays wonderfully right from the bottle. I think the biggest problem I see people having is in their application technique. Quite a few creators advise starting with a fine mist coat, and I think that is where the problem is. It requires a wet coat - not flooded so it runs, but definitely wet enough to allow it to level. It takes some trial and error to get it down. But like I said, give the glycerin a try. You never know!
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Thanks for the info!
Thanks for watching and commenting! 😊
I must have missed it, but what psi do you use to spray future and how close do you get to the part getting sprayed?
I shoot it at about 18psi, and work about 2 inches from the model. I may occasionally pull back a bit further for a wetter coat.
Thanks for watching!
@@JonBius Awesome thank you so much! Excellent channel please keep up the good work.
Everywhere that sells this stuff wants an arm and a leg for it now that it's become so popular among modelers.
Good news - check out my latest video for an alternative! th-cam.com/video/PVA_E1vd_Yo/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for watching and commenting!
I have been looking for a bottle and nothing is coming up for less that $30. Is this normal? Any idea where to find it cheaper?
In the US it's about $8 (WalMart), but I know getting it outside the US can be quite expensive. The manufacturer does sell it in some countries under different names. Check with your local modeling groups - they might be able to help.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@JonBius its discontinued again so some stores claim to have it but when you go in store there is nothing i checked walmart, lowes, home depot i ended up buying it from a local store for 14 bucks
Wow! I hope it comes back.
I still have two unopened bottles that I got for less than $4 each!
Question, does it lock up joints
like, say you are too lazy to fully disassemble a gundam model kit.
will it fuse the joint?
i want to know, Mr hobby uv cut does not fuse it so I want to know
I think you'd really have to flood the surface for that to happen. The most I've had it do is tighten the joints up a bit, which is usually a good thing. But after a little articulation, that usually goes away.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@JonBius thx, but i cant find the stuff where i live (indonesia) could only find the lemon and peach stuff
Hello, any thoughts on using a clear coat for tightening joints?
Yes! It can work great! Apply it a bit at a time and test it as you go.
Hope that helps - thanks for watching and commenting!
I had areas that fogged on the hood of a car model. What did I do wrong?, or will it clear up?
There could be a number of things at play - moisture in the air, the underlying surface reacting - it's hard to say. I'd suggest testing a spot application in one area and seeing if it clears it up.
I've never actually had that happen, but some folks who have reported it said that a second coat cleared things up.
I hope that helps!
Floor polish is a very good product for all of the above reasons. Don't get in the Future mindset, any clear floor polish will work as well sense it isn't sold everywhere. You can even polish it for an even better shine, but you need several coats so you don't go through to the paint. It's also good for thinning cheap craft paints because they aren't really designed for plastic. It adds more adhesion.
Good information - thanks!
Have you ever tried to use "future" to repair scratches on something like Lego? I've heard it can be used that way, but I've never seen a video.
Does "future " add a lot of thickness to the coated item?
I've not used Future for that - that's an interesting question.
How much of a "skin" it leaves depends on how it is applied. When applied by airbrush, it is very, very thin. A brush application will be a bit thicker, especially if it is a heavy brush load.
The trouble is it's not "sandable" really.
Still, it would not hurt to try I think. It can be easily removed with alcohol, which would not hurt the plastic.
It might also be worth testing using various grades of sanding sticks to polish scratches out. I've done that on clear canopies and it works well.
HTH! Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@JonBius Thank you for your reply. It's nice to know I could experiment with it without wrecking the Lego (Legos). I've been looking forward to trying "future", but wasn't confident enough until reading your response.
Glad to help!
@@seanlavoie2 Glad to help!
Amazing, this is a good video.
Thank you! :D
What should you use to clean the airbrush after running this stuff through it?
I use isopropyl alcohol. That will strip it off nicely. If any remains, a little lacquer thinner will finish it off.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Thanks for explaining ..... I have seen the Future >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Ha ha! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Can you use it as a wash over a primer (gesso, using it due to asthma) on a plastic miniature and then paint over it? Thank you.
If you're referring to adding a bit of color to it, absolutely... it can work well as a replacement for other acrylic washes. Inks tend to work best, though paint will work also. You'd want to experiment a bit with the ratios, of course.
Thanks for watching and commenting. Grace and peace be with you!
@@JonBius Thank you, but I was wondering if you can paint over it as well, like layering over other acrylic paints, or if it's mainly used for washes/sealant over something that's already painted? For example, step-by-step: prime miniature, Future wash, paint over some of that wash with paint, seal entire model with Future, and then a matte varnish over everything? Thanks.
@@soldierforchrist631 Gotcha! Yes, you can definitely do that. Thanks for the clarification! :D
@@JonBius Excellent. Thanks a million!