If in doubt, Gunblue490 probably has the best video on disassembly of a S&W I have seen, which is one reason I did this video more as a show and tell instead of formal instruction. I don’t think there is anything I can add to what he has already said. I have some slight difference in preference on a few things, like getting a tool made specifically for removing the rebound slide, but he really knows his stuff and gives a very thorough presentation.
Hi, I own a model 19-4 and it jammed two times a week ago. Actually I shot 357 and the primer went back a little bit, just enough to prevent me from opening the cylinder. I was at the gun club and the gunsmith came to open the cylinder with a rubber mallet. He then opened it and found the fulcrum that you cleaned @13:32 where the trigger assembly is hold onto was broken. 😢 he told me no repair could be done … is it true ? Possibly as this fulcrum is part of the gun body…. He said that the primer issue way be due to a slight recessed of the body in the hammer area that allows the primer to go backwards …! Do you agree ? Thanks for your help and pieces of advice … 👍
It can be repaired. They’re actually separate pins sort of pressed into the frame. Your best bet is to contact S&W. I’ve sent revolvers back to them before for that same repair. I’m not sure anyone else has the tooling to do it.
@@FGX318There might be people in France who can do it. Depending on the manifesting technique some are pressed in and others are screwed in, based on what I am reading. Someone who is a talented machinist and fabricator can probably get it done. Tricky part will probably be getting it reprofiled where it goes through the frame and reblued. Best of luck to you. S&W might know of someone in your area who can help, but I’m not sure what kind of network they have in Europe.
Thanks. I don’t remember if I said it in the video but if you decide to take yours down or just explore the mechanics further, Gunblue490 is an extremely knowledgeable and experienced source of information. If you liked this video, you’ll probably enjoy his videos on S&W revolvers even more.
Ive just inherited a 19.4 serial dated to 1978 It sat inside a bank deposit box for all those 48 years, it's in mint condition fired only 6 rounds at the time of purchase. It finally made it's way to me, it's in a good home,im just trying to find out more about this type of revolver ,do you think i have a winner, is this a sought after piece. It has zero blemishes im planning to make it my new daily carry, just like frank Sinatra did.😅
Sounds like an excellent revolver. I’d probably be inclined to get something more modern to carry and do general shooting with, something that has parts currently manufactured and isn’t a pristine family heirloom and excellent example of the golden age of revolvers, and also something in stainless for ease of maintenance, but mechanically the revolver should work fine.
@ColterBrog a heirloom it is,I do have a few semi auto handguns, I'll be sure to keep this one pristine, from what I've researched no to many in new condition left. Thanks for the feedback and the great video.
Excellent video, thank you, sir. I have had S&W revolvers for 40+ years, but have never taken one down this far. Thanks to you, I have the confidence to try it. Looking forward to seeing Part 2. Suggestion for getting all those small parts clean: use an ultrasonic cleaner - it's amazing how much dirt comes off things that look clean. I have the small one from Magnasonic, but should probably have spent more to get a bigger one.
I would also advise watching the S&W disassembly video by GunBlue490. He is very knowledgeable and gives a more thorough explanation of proper techniques than I do. Part of the reason I haven’t done a disassembly instruction video on S&W is because I have nothing to add to what he has shown. His video is essentially the definitive source.
Excellent video. Would you please specify on how to remove the pin and barrel on a S&W.Revolver 357 mag. 19-4. Does the pin come out to the left?.opposite side of the side plate?. Thanks for your help. Great video.
As far as I can tell the pin is straight- both ends appear to be the same diameter as best I am able to measure with my dial caliper. (0.069”) Based on a very small blemish from manufacturing, it appears the pin was driven in from the right/side plate side of the revolver. Removing a barrel is not something I have done on one of these. I don’t have the equipment to effectively retorque it, fit a barrel, or the fixtures to confidently be able to remove one without causing damage to the frame.
Ya can't go wrong with a K Frame... Especially the Model 19... Mine are all "Pre-Lock" Models with the Firing Pin on the Hammer... I wouldn't go near a New One... The "Classic Series".... Shrouded Barrels, Hillary Holes, Mim Parts, Etc... They might be good guns, but me personally, I don't care for them... That's a NICE S&W!!....Great Video!
Thanks, and in general I agree. The “Hillary Hole”, as you so eloquently put it, to me just ruins the classic shape and lines. It changed the silhouette noticeably. Certain other things, like the frame mounted firing pin… I prefer the old style of hammer nose but the frame mounted firing pin doesn’t bother me. The shrouded barrel I think is actually a legitimate improvement due to the clearances involved in the K frame. I touch on this briefly in the forcing cone video, but to put it briefly I’d rather have a shrouded barrel with a thinner concentric forcing cone, than a thicker forcing cone that has one weak spot in it that becomes a failure point. MIM can be good, or it can be bad. The main issues with MIM are either poor processes and poor QC, or poor implementation. MIM is a good choice for certain parts, but inappropriate in other applications. Lots of nuance to it, I think. The main detractor for me on the new S&W lineup is the integral lock. It’s ugly.
The gentleman who sold it to me was not much of a gun guy. He claimed buying it new with one box of ammunition. He shot the whole box except six round for practice, loaded it with those last six, and kept it in his night stand for a few decades. He wanted to sell it because he had bought a CZ P07 thinking it was time he upgrade to semi-auto… and couldn’t imagine why he would ever need two handguns. Of course, without provenance, it’s wise to always buy the gun, not the story. In this instance, though, I believe him. The revolver is in incredible condition for its age and shows only the faintest little hints of wear probably from sliding around in his nightstand drawer forever. I have never shot it and honestly don’t intend to. It’s a beautiful piece of American craftsmanship that I’m happy to showcase in this video and preserve for future generations.
Found this while looking for a solution to my cylinder stop. I inherited an all original 19-4 that's never been fired. The cylinder stop doesn't recede down into the frame far enough to allow the cylinder to rotate. Doesn't fail every time, though. Fails about 75% of the time. How hard is it to get the cylinder stop out? I've taken it down all the way up to that point and stopped. Any tips or tricks? Thanks!
It’s not really all that difficult, it’s just tedious because it’s a small part and a small spring in a tight spot. Just need to drop it down and wiggle it out the side. I usually find tweezers, toothpick, paper clip, etc. are helpful implements.
I’ve tried that before, but don’t like that it sometimes seems to impart a bit of magnetism to the parts. I really prefer non-magnetic tools and parts. That’s all just personal preference, though. Plenty of very competent people love magnetic drivers and such.
I have to do the same it is in absolutely like new mechanical condition. but..... this thing was really badly stored with no oil. rust was surface but there are some pits that are gonna have to stay for the most part.. I cleaned it up and did a quicky cold blue.. it came out .... sorta acceptable. I have been doing some nickel plating... practiced on a few black powder revolvers. My thinking is to clean it up the best I can without taking off too much material and then nickel plate it. Nickel was fairly common on guns back then. If anyone is offended by that well.... they are really gonna like the real pearl grips. By the way.... it is an extremely accurate gun.
I do have a video, pretty old one now, about techniques I use for removing rust including trying to minimize the appearance of pitting. Oil, a soft brass cartridge casing as a scraper, and some 0000 steel wool wetted with oil will do a pretty good job of taking off rust while preserving the surrounding finish and preventing additional damage to the base metal.
I am a hugefan o 0000 steel wool in this case tho i want to give the gun a polish a bit better than the factory sine nickel shows every scratch and imperfection@@ColterBrog
This video is awesome! This made me more confident in taking my ‘58 19-3 apart!
If in doubt, Gunblue490 probably has the best video on disassembly of a S&W I have seen, which is one reason I did this video more as a show and tell instead of formal instruction.
I don’t think there is anything I can add to what he has already said. I have some slight difference in preference on a few things, like getting a tool made specifically for removing the rebound slide, but he really knows his stuff and gives a very thorough presentation.
Hi, I own a model 19-4 and it jammed two times a week ago. Actually I shot 357 and the primer went back a little bit, just enough to prevent me from opening the cylinder. I was at the gun club and the gunsmith came to open the cylinder with a rubber mallet. He then opened it and found the fulcrum that you cleaned @13:32 where the trigger assembly is hold onto was broken. 😢 he told me no repair could be done … is it true ? Possibly as this fulcrum is part of the gun body…. He said that the primer issue way be due to a slight recessed of the body in the hammer area that allows the primer to go backwards …! Do you agree ? Thanks for your help and pieces of advice … 👍
It can be repaired. They’re actually separate pins sort of pressed into the frame.
Your best bet is to contact S&W. I’ve sent revolvers back to them before for that same repair. I’m not sure anyone else has the tooling to do it.
Thanks for your reply… I’m in France not easy as if I was to the US, but I’ll try to get connection with them .. thanks again 👍
@@FGX318There might be people in France who can do it. Depending on the manifesting technique some are pressed in and others are screwed in, based on what I am reading.
Someone who is a talented machinist and fabricator can probably get it done. Tricky part will probably be getting it reprofiled where it goes through the frame and reblued.
Best of luck to you. S&W might know of someone in your area who can help, but I’m not sure what kind of network they have in Europe.
Thank you so much for the advice … I’ll try to look up for a smith and Wesson rep around here … 👍 finger crossed !
The Bob Ross of guns.
Heh. I usually get called out for having Owen Wilson’s voice, but I’ll happily take Bob Ross. 😂
Thanks for the video. I got a 19-9 and ive never taken apart a revolver this is a great look inside of how easy it is to take it down.
Thanks. I don’t remember if I said it in the video but if you decide to take yours down or just explore the mechanics further, Gunblue490 is an extremely knowledgeable and experienced source of information. If you liked this video, you’ll probably enjoy his videos on S&W revolvers even more.
Ive just inherited a 19.4 serial dated to 1978
It sat inside a bank deposit box for all those 48 years, it's in mint condition fired only 6 rounds at the time of purchase. It finally made it's way to me, it's in a good home,im just trying to find out more about this type of revolver ,do you think i have a winner, is this a sought after piece. It has zero blemishes im planning to make it my new daily carry, just like frank Sinatra did.😅
Sounds like an excellent revolver. I’d probably be inclined to get something more modern to carry and do general shooting with, something that has parts currently manufactured and isn’t a pristine family heirloom and excellent example of the golden age of revolvers, and also something in stainless for ease of maintenance, but mechanically the revolver should work fine.
@ColterBrog
a heirloom it is,I do have a few semi auto handguns, I'll be sure to keep this one pristine, from what I've researched no to many in new condition left. Thanks for the feedback and the great video.
Excellent video, thank you, sir. I have had S&W revolvers for 40+ years, but have never taken one down this far. Thanks to you, I have the confidence to try it. Looking forward to seeing Part 2. Suggestion for getting all those small parts clean: use an ultrasonic cleaner - it's amazing how much dirt comes off things that look clean. I have the small one from Magnasonic, but should probably have spent more to get a bigger one.
I would also advise watching the S&W disassembly video by GunBlue490. He is very knowledgeable and gives a more thorough explanation of proper techniques than I do.
Part of the reason I haven’t done a disassembly instruction video on S&W is because I have nothing to add to what he has shown. His video is essentially the definitive source.
Excellent video. Would you please specify on how to remove the pin and barrel on a S&W.Revolver 357 mag. 19-4.
Does the pin come out to the left?.opposite side of the side plate?. Thanks for your help. Great video.
As far as I can tell the pin is straight- both ends appear to be the same diameter as best I am able to measure with my dial caliper. (0.069”)
Based on a very small blemish from manufacturing, it appears the pin was driven in from the right/side plate side of the revolver.
Removing a barrel is not something I have done on one of these. I don’t have the equipment to effectively retorque it, fit a barrel, or the fixtures to confidently be able to remove one without causing damage to the frame.
@@ColterBrog Thank you very much.
Ya can't go wrong with a K Frame... Especially the Model 19... Mine are all "Pre-Lock" Models with the Firing Pin on the Hammer... I wouldn't go near a New One... The "Classic Series".... Shrouded Barrels, Hillary Holes, Mim Parts, Etc... They might be good guns, but me personally, I don't care for them... That's a NICE S&W!!....Great Video!
Thanks, and in general I agree. The “Hillary Hole”, as you so eloquently put it, to me just ruins the classic shape and lines. It changed the silhouette noticeably.
Certain other things, like the frame mounted firing pin… I prefer the old style of hammer nose but the frame mounted firing pin doesn’t bother me.
The shrouded barrel I think is actually a legitimate improvement due to the clearances involved in the K frame. I touch on this briefly in the forcing cone video, but to put it briefly I’d rather have a shrouded barrel with a thinner concentric forcing cone, than a thicker forcing cone that has one weak spot in it that becomes a failure point.
MIM can be good, or it can be bad. The main issues with MIM are either poor processes and poor QC, or poor implementation. MIM is a good choice for certain parts, but inappropriate in other applications. Lots of nuance to it, I think.
The main detractor for me on the new S&W lineup is the integral lock. It’s ugly.
Shockingly clean. Must have not been shot too much?
The gentleman who sold it to me was not much of a gun guy. He claimed buying it new with one box of ammunition. He shot the whole box except six round for practice, loaded it with those last six, and kept it in his night stand for a few decades. He wanted to sell it because he had bought a CZ P07 thinking it was time he upgrade to semi-auto… and couldn’t imagine why he would ever need two handguns.
Of course, without provenance, it’s wise to always buy the gun, not the story. In this instance, though, I believe him. The revolver is in incredible condition for its age and shows only the faintest little hints of wear probably from sliding around in his nightstand drawer forever.
I have never shot it and honestly don’t intend to. It’s a beautiful piece of American craftsmanship that I’m happy to showcase in this video and preserve for future generations.
SETX! Where abouts?
H-Town! lol
Clear Lake
@@ColterBrog Buna it’s about 30 min north BMT
Found this while looking for a solution to my cylinder stop. I inherited an all original 19-4 that's never been fired. The cylinder stop doesn't recede down into the frame far enough to allow the cylinder to rotate. Doesn't fail every time, though. Fails about 75% of the time. How hard is it to get the cylinder stop out? I've taken it down all the way up to that point and stopped. Any tips or tricks? Thanks!
It’s not really all that difficult, it’s just tedious because it’s a small part and a small spring in a tight spot. Just need to drop it down and wiggle it out the side. I usually find tweezers, toothpick, paper clip, etc. are helpful implements.
@@ColterBrog Excellent. Thanks very much.
I always use a Harbor Freight magnet bottom bowl to hold all the small parts.
I’ve tried that before, but don’t like that it sometimes seems to impart a bit of magnetism to the parts. I really prefer non-magnetic tools and parts. That’s all just personal preference, though. Plenty of very competent people love magnetic drivers and such.
I have to do the same it is in absolutely like new mechanical condition. but..... this thing was really badly stored with no oil. rust was surface but there are some pits that are gonna have to stay for the most part.. I cleaned it up and did a quicky cold blue.. it came out .... sorta acceptable. I have been doing some nickel plating... practiced on a few black powder revolvers. My thinking is to clean it up the best I can without taking off too much material and then nickel plate it. Nickel was fairly common on guns back then. If anyone is offended by that well.... they are really gonna like the real pearl grips. By the way.... it is an extremely accurate gun.
I do have a video, pretty old one now, about techniques I use for removing rust including trying to minimize the appearance of pitting. Oil, a soft brass cartridge casing as a scraper, and some 0000 steel wool wetted with oil will do a pretty good job of taking off rust while preserving the surrounding finish and preventing additional damage to the base metal.
I am a hugefan o 0000 steel wool in this case tho i want to give the gun a polish a bit better than the factory sine nickel shows every scratch and imperfection@@ColterBrog
Ialsouse some old dental tools to lift the parts that need to be preyed out.
Dental tools are very convenient, especially when dealing with the small springs.
Hard work bear fruit
Yes.