rings wear out and then glazing. Ball hones are good if the cylinders arent out of round and theres no ridge. We used them at cosworth on the dfx. nice video
Thanks for the video. I hate the fuel injection and oil injection. I love the old 2.4 and 2.5 carburetor motors. Aybe someday the outboards fuel injection system will be more like the automotive industry plug and play systems. Keep up the good video's I'm really into the shadow restoration job.
Love your videos. Even though you claim it's not a "how to" thing it's still very informative. I love mercury 2 stroke motors and I have three old bass boats with one 1995 black max 150 xri, one 1994 200 pro max and a regular 90 hp with carbs from 2007. I would like to get a 135 optimax that I can renovate and possibly replace the 90 hp for my 19 foot tracker. Many thanks
Awesome man! My goal is to show you that it's ok to do these things yourself when it's appropriate. For more serious issues I would always recommend taking it to a machine shop or equally qualified person for repair. But...if you don't try you'll never know what you're capable of.
Cool stuff! Wonder how the same motor (block) makes 150-250 horsepower. Also wonder why 2 stroke low compression motors respond best with high octane fuels...
@@askikr79 A triple stone hone finished with a gentle polished chamfering of the transfer and exhaust ports. Ball hones tend to smash into the ports in not a good way. If it works for you, more power to you. All the best.
@@SF-rl7hl agree. After 50 plus years i will not use triple hones. They hit the ports and break off, they are the ones that gouge the ports. Note he did i think 7 strokes per cylinder which cleans up well. Yo do NOT want to hone into twenty or more. All you do then is screw it up and needs bored then because you took too much metal out. always clean and de-grease and make sure ports do not require work, if so... decide if you are good enough or take to a pro just to be sure.
Funny I came across this. I just did my 97 Yamaha Pro V 150. Heard and noise and piston had a small crack in it. Replaced piston, all new rings, honed, oiled alot and put it back together. Sounds better than it did when I first bought the boat. Did it because it was either I do it and spend little $$$ or it was going to sit for a LONG time
@joshuahartwell903 check compression after rebuild? New spark plugs? Our other boat was giving me all kinds of grief. Plugs were maybe a few months old but just from tuning and them getting a little fouled from running too rich, put new plugs in and boat fired right up
I just have a quick question ..im in the middle of tearing my 98 merc 200 efi down , and i cant seem to get the front case off. I see you laid down the engine and you took off 3 bolts around the crank ...my motor is still on the swivel..Do i have to fully remove my power head to get to those bolts ? Thanks 👍🇨🇦
Thank you for taking the time to video this. Very informative. I have the 135 v6 and after following the service manual through the process I discovered that my Plastic gear on the crank is stripped. No service manual info on just changing the gear. I am hoping you can answer a question for me. Can the gear be swapped out while the crank is in place? Maybe pulling the reed block and lower half and accessing the crank without pulling heads, pistons etc. I would really appriciate your thoughts. Thanks
Thanks and yes, you can replace the gear. I doubt it can be done without splitting the block though. Maybe but doubtful. You're better off to remove the oil injection and premix. Just my opinion.
I by passed my oil injection system on my Mercury 90hp...I run old school 50:1 pre mix...I've been fixing motors for 30yrs...honestly I don't care how Well Engineered a 2 cycle motor is....I don't trust >> Oil Injection at all...
I've got 17 years on my 2005 150 XL Merc no problem with oil injection system works like new from factory. You have know how take care of an outboard. To many novices with money and No brains.
@@SF-rl7hl friend, does not matter how well you take care of a merc with that neopreme to metal gear set. it WILL sooner or later eat itself. They want it to after 7 to 10 years so that you buy a new engine
@Small town Bassin' can you send me a link or put a link in the video for all of the parts needed to remove the rev limiter. you speak of the cdi electronics, what does the consist of? switch box, coils?
Been doing 2strokes my whole life. Hone it, wash it, if scoring catches my finger, it's gotta go to the machine shop, or sleeve it. If not, micrometer the two, may not have to file the rings, and then.....send that bitch. But there is always a catch, and that's usually the crank. Oh...and premix all the way home. Only time I was EVER instructed to go 100:1 was on the track. Great video BTW!
So all I gotta do to remove the reed block is those 8 bolts I ain’t gotta take off the carbs what about the linkages for the carbs just pop off that one that joins them all together? I’m having same problem with poor idle and didn’t see that part on your other vids.
I hydro locked a 2023 300 r at 20 hours. I ran it for an out 10 seconds after water came in. It has not been scoped. Without knowing the damage, how much do you think it’s worth? A new one is 21k
Without knowing the damage its only worth what visible non damaged parts are worth to you. Could have a warped block and useless even if it looks buildable. Russian roulette if you ask me. Gotta open her up and find out.
@SmalltownBassin thought someone had told me not good on my 93 175 efi tp delete injection. Something about oiling that premix wouldn't get to? Cant wuite remember
That's not true. The fuel and oil is premixed in the VST before being distributed to the fuel rail for injection. Dont overcomplicate it. Doesnt matter where the mix occurs as long as it occurs before injection. The only down side to delete in all cases is the oil consumption efficiency loss. The OEM design is throttle controlled and only mixes at high ratios at WOT. Premix burns that volume of oil 100% of the time e.g. 50:1, 40:1, 32:1, etc. Whatever good health calls for.
@SmalltownBassin this 93 175 xri i have only has 280 hours on it. I wonder why they don't want it turning over 5800 rpm. You would think it could handle more. I thought I read that excessive rpm can iverheat the plastic oil pump gear ect. Maybe if i delete the injection i could run it harder?
I have a nerd and a Yamaha with oil injection and always pre mix 200:1 just to be safe and also ,omiter how much oil I have to add to the tank , at least then I have an idea if something in the auto oil is failing
@@Jameswrightdavid no. Those oil injections over time will supply less and less oil to the gas and the motor suffers from lack of lubrication until the motor fails. So he’s adding oil to the gas to supplement what the oil injection isn’t providing anymore. Oil injection is a motor killer
@@Jameswrightdavid I premix the fuel at 200 to 1 and still use the oil injection , the yamaha has a multi stage oil pump so it idles at 200:1 , and gradually goes up to 50:1
Most Yamaha precision blend systems fail to maximum oil flow if the pump linkage breaks off (I had this happen). Never had an issue with them and they are easy to calibrate and adjust. I modified the plastic linkage with a brass sleeve which eliminates that weak point.
I've had my 2005 Mercury 150 XL since new. Never! I repeat Never had a problem. it still has over 120 lbs compression all 6 cy. Best outboard I've ever owned thats a Fact!
Mercury’s absolutely biggest idiot move, plastic gear for oil pump!! That was an unbelievable idiot design!! Rebuilt to many to count. Touch about 62-6400 RPM’s and you toasted your motor.
Great video, much appreciated. My 135 has 90 compression and about to take it apart and rebuild it.
'Don't do this at home - but it's kinda fun'. Love it !! Thanks for taking the time to capture this on video. Very interesting
I do a lot of these, always mic all rotating parts and dial bore to be sure, also take 320 and cross hatch skirts great engines. Enjoyed the video!!
Love watching your work
rings wear out and then glazing. Ball hones are good if the cylinders arent out of round and theres no ridge. We used them at cosworth on the dfx. nice video
Thanks for your video
Thanks for the video. I hate the fuel injection and oil injection. I love the old 2.4 and 2.5 carburetor motors.
Aybe someday the outboards fuel injection system will be more like the automotive industry plug and play systems. Keep up the good video's I'm really into the shadow restoration job.
Love your videos. Even though you claim it's not a "how to" thing it's still very informative. I love mercury 2 stroke motors and I have three old bass boats with one 1995 black max 150 xri, one 1994 200 pro max and a regular 90 hp with carbs from 2007. I would like to get a 135 optimax that I can renovate and possibly replace the 90 hp for my 19 foot tracker.
Many thanks
Awesome man! My goal is to show you that it's ok to do these things yourself when it's appropriate. For more serious issues I would always recommend taking it to a machine shop or equally qualified person for repair. But...if you don't try you'll never know what you're capable of.
Cool stuff! Wonder how the same motor (block) makes 150-250 horsepower. Also wonder why 2 stroke low compression motors respond best with high octane fuels...
Using a ball hone on a two stroke... I must have been taught differently!
What were you taught?
@@askikr79 A triple stone hone finished with a gentle polished chamfering of the transfer and exhaust ports. Ball hones tend to smash into the ports in not a good way. If it works for you, more power to you. All the best.
Triple hones on outboard are asking for trouble! I know 40 plus years work.
@@SF-rl7hl So, youre sayin the Util Tarian guy above is incorrect about his concern that the ball hones will damage the exhaust ports?
@@SF-rl7hl agree. After 50 plus years i will not use triple hones. They hit the ports and break off, they are the ones that gouge the ports. Note he did i think 7 strokes per cylinder which cleans up well. Yo do NOT want to hone into twenty or more. All you do then is screw it up and needs bored then because you took too much metal out. always clean and de-grease and make sure ports do not require work, if so... decide if you are good enough or take to a pro just to be sure.
Funny I came across this. I just did my 97 Yamaha Pro V 150. Heard and noise and piston had a small crack in it. Replaced piston, all new rings, honed, oiled alot and put it back together. Sounds better than it did when I first bought the boat. Did it because it was either I do it and spend little $$$ or it was going to sit for a LONG time
Nice work and thanks for watching!
Just rebuilt mine, but now 3 cylinders not firing,i do have spark.
@joshuahartwell903 check compression after rebuild? New spark plugs? Our other boat was giving me all kinds of grief. Plugs were maybe a few months old but just from tuning and them getting a little fouled from running too rich, put new plugs in and boat fired right up
@@joshuahartwell903 trigger, powerpack or ground to a pack more than likely if it happened immediately.
Is there some sort of flush for the water jackets? Looks like hard water deposits too...
I just have a quick question ..im in the middle of tearing my 98 merc 200 efi down , and i cant seem to get the front case off. I see you laid down the engine and you took off 3 bolts around the crank ...my motor is still on the swivel..Do i have to fully remove my power head to get to those bolts ? Thanks 👍🇨🇦
Thank you for taking the time to video this. Very informative.
I have the 135 v6 and after following the service manual through the process I discovered that my Plastic gear on the crank is stripped. No service manual info on just changing the gear.
I am hoping you can answer a question for me. Can the gear be swapped out while the crank is in place? Maybe pulling the reed block and lower half and accessing the crank without pulling heads, pistons etc.
I would really appriciate your thoughts.
Thanks
Thanks and yes, you can replace the gear. I doubt it can be done without splitting the block though. Maybe but doubtful. You're better off to remove the oil injection and premix. Just my opinion.
@@SmalltownBassin Thanks for the reply. I think you are right. The oil injection system may need to go.
Does every cylinder has it own transverport or do some cylinders share them?
What are you using with your hose to degrease ?
Hello how u i need to know what size socket u use on the conrod
I by passed my oil injection system on my Mercury 90hp...I run old school 50:1 pre mix...I've been fixing motors for 30yrs...honestly I don't care how Well Engineered a 2 cycle motor is....I don't trust >> Oil Injection at all...
Same on my Yamaha ox66. Only problem with newer 2 stroke.
I've got 17 years on my 2005 150 XL Merc no problem with oil injection system works like new from factory. You have know how take care of an outboard. To many novices with money and No brains.
@@SF-rl7hl friend, does not matter how well you take care of a merc with that neopreme to metal gear set. it WILL sooner or later eat itself. They want it to after 7 to 10 years so that you buy a new engine
I bought a bass boat with a bad motor I was wondering if it’s cheaper to rebuilt it then to buy a new motor?
what year is this one? are you still running it?
@Small town Bassin' can you send me a link or put a link in the video for all of the parts needed to remove the rev limiter. you speak of the cdi electronics, what does the consist of? switch box, coils?
www.promarineusa.com
Yes, that is the type of ignition im talking about. Stator, trigger, switchbox(s), coils.
Been doing 2strokes my whole life. Hone it, wash it, if scoring catches my finger, it's gotta go to the machine shop, or sleeve it. If not, micrometer the two, may not have to file the rings, and then.....send that bitch. But there is always a catch, and that's usually the crank. Oh...and premix all the way home. Only time I was EVER instructed to go 100:1 was on the track.
Great video BTW!
I’ve got a 2.5l 175 that needs rebuilt. Would you be interested?
What is this outboard (complete powerhead mid and lower) worth when the powerhead is completely rebuilt by
a professional shop?
Good question. Gotta be 65-70 % of retail
So all I gotta do to remove the reed block is those 8 bolts I ain’t gotta take off the carbs what about the linkages for the carbs just pop off that one that joins them all together? I’m having same problem with poor idle and didn’t see that part on your other vids.
Correct. 8 7/16in bolts, bleed lines, throttle linkage to cam must be removed to take off the reed plate.
@@SmalltownBassin thanks! Your channel is best one out here for these motors!
I just blew up one of these today.
Morning sorry about my English
I have a 150hp 2.5l i want to know what's the proper size of the thread flywheel nut can someone tell?? Thanks
I honestly don't know. Should be easy to look up though.
👍👍👍👍
I hydro locked a 2023 300 r at 20 hours. I ran it for an out 10 seconds after water came in. It has not been scoped. Without knowing the damage, how much do you think it’s worth? A new one is 21k
Without knowing the damage its only worth what visible non damaged parts are worth to you. Could have a warped block and useless even if it looks buildable. Russian roulette if you ask me. Gotta open her up and find out.
@@SmalltownBassinthat’s what I needed to know. If it was hot for less than a minute, could the block warp?
Did you replace the bad plastic oil pump drive gear on the crank? Or delete oil injection
Deleted pump with block off kit. I leave the crank gear in for stuffing.
@SmalltownBassin thought someone had told me not good on my 93 175 efi tp delete injection. Something about oiling that premix wouldn't get to? Cant wuite remember
That's not true. The fuel and oil is premixed in the VST before being distributed to the fuel rail for injection. Dont overcomplicate it. Doesnt matter where the mix occurs as long as it occurs before injection. The only down side to delete in all cases is the oil consumption efficiency loss. The OEM design is throttle controlled and only mixes at high ratios at WOT. Premix burns that volume of oil 100% of the time e.g. 50:1, 40:1, 32:1, etc. Whatever good health calls for.
@@SmalltownBassin thanks for the clarification
@SmalltownBassin this 93 175 xri i have only has 280 hours on it. I wonder why they don't want it turning over 5800 rpm. You would think it could handle more. I thought I read that excessive rpm can iverheat the plastic oil pump gear ect. Maybe if i delete the injection i could run it harder?
MAY I ASK WERE ARE YOU LOCATED I GOT A 50HP 2 STROKE 2005 NEED YOUR HELP
Nashville
@@SmalltownBassin MACON,GA IS WERE I AM FROM
I have a nerd and a Yamaha with oil injection and always pre mix 200:1 just to be safe and also ,omiter how much oil I have to add to the tank , at least then I have an idea if something in the auto oil is failing
I think you mean 50:1
@@Jameswrightdavid no. Those oil injections over time will supply less and less oil to the gas and the motor suffers from lack of lubrication until the motor fails. So he’s adding oil to the gas to supplement what the oil injection isn’t providing anymore. Oil injection is a motor killer
@@Jameswrightdavid I premix the fuel at 200 to 1 and still use the oil injection , the yamaha has a multi stage oil pump so it idles at 200:1 , and gradually goes up to 50:1
Most Yamaha precision blend systems fail to maximum oil flow if the pump linkage breaks off (I had this happen). Never had an issue with them and they are easy to calibrate and adjust.
I modified the plastic linkage with a brass sleeve which eliminates that weak point.
@@terrorofdemons1168 it doesn’t have “oil injectors” it just dumps oil into the VST
Damn i tried it at home
At 200 hours my 1994 XRI 200 had the piston ring anti rotation pin fall out and destroy the motor, there is not a Mercury on my boat today
I've had my 2005 Mercury 150 XL since new. Never! I repeat Never had a problem. it still has over 120 lbs compression all 6 cy. Best outboard I've ever owned thats a Fact!
@@SF-rl7hl Great so they fixed a known problem which doomed many Mercury 2.5 liter motors in the mid 1990's
That's why I peen the aluminum around the pin on rebuilds. Common practice to prevent that from happening. To each their own.
you wanna rebuild mine 00 xr6 no compression on 5 in 6
Maybe. PM on the Smalltown bassin Facebook page.
90psi on all cylinders.
Maybe whats worn out is the compression gauge😂
Hahahaha don't do this at home...... but it's fun. Does this have a nicaseal sleeves I. It?
Steel
Annoying thing.
You explained what happened to the oil pump gear and did not show the replacement
Please reply
Sorry. I deleted the oiler by using the quicksilver block off kit. I cleaned up the gear on the crank and left it in for stuffing.
I would love to re-build Mercury outboard engines. Greetings from Germany.
I have one of these motors. Getting estimates for up to 10 k to rebuild this. Is that normal? Is that worth it?
I have an ‘01 and an ‘03 merc 150 at home and was 100% going to try this until you said not to
Mercury’s absolutely biggest idiot move, plastic gear for oil pump!! That was an unbelievable idiot design!! Rebuilt to many to count. Touch about 62-6400 RPM’s and you toasted your motor.