I have the same bike the only problem I have with it is I constantly have to change out the brake pads bc they squeak a ton and I can really do jumps with it bc it’s super heavy and janky but nice vid dude keep it up 👍🏼
if you dont know already sqeeking brakes is becuase of contamination or eiter pad or disc clean with brakeclean the pad could be sanded with fine grit sandpaper
I’m not sure if you fixed the issue with the bike but I’m certain it’s your phase wire combination. Some of these generic motors the color of the phase wires do not match up with the controller and you have to try many different variations so that the motor can run smoothly. Whatever combination you find, you have to also switch the hall sensor wires to match the phase wires.
It’s definitely not the phase wire combination. You can connect them in any order, same as the hall sensor wires (except 5v and ground). The Sabvoton is self leaning. It will learn however you connect it, and from there if its running backwards you just flick a switch in the app to reverse direction. These motors are easy to take apart. It should be checked for check for loose or broken magnets. Not sure if the issue is fixed yet. Lol
hiya youll need to check the max current output of your bms it looks like a small battery that controller will pull a solid 100 amps in blink of an eye
Since he removed the motor to fix the flat, we can safely assume if the axle nuts were loose he would have deleted the first part of the video before uploading it, or edited “I found the problem”. Lol
@@aaron092000, yes, thats why all my BMS are bluetooth so i can see whats going on and set them just above what I need so they will still act like a breaker of the lowest position amps. I have my 80a/200a ANT discharge current limit set at 100a while using my old battery which is 25a CDR, but when i make my 5P P42A battery ill set it around 200a until i see what my peak boost amps should be (150a-180a) and then maybe drop BMS current limit to 20a over that.
@@imho7250 sweet! I just ordered a ANT 130/325 bms, the one with 4 wires. I'm making my battery from liitokalas version of the lg hg2 cells. It's gonna be a 20s12p pack now they state it can handle 20a discharge but I don't know about that 😂 that's why I'm aiming for 7-10a per cell and limiting the current so the peak dosent go past 15a per cell and 60c for this reason. Aside from the potential drawbacks these cells have amazing value for the money, I'll make a p42 pack eventually and good luck with your build!
@@aaron092000 ,most manufacturers over-rate their cell’s discharge capability, especially if you are in a hot climate. I used some Liitokala 18650s to populate the empty slots in my 13s5p battery kit that only filled 2p of the kit. After unwrapping one cell I found the underlying cells were rated at 10a by the manufacturer but independent testers rated them at 5a, and i find that going over that the pack heats up rather quickly. Once your pack is made you will just have to see how they perform as a pack. Since you have an ANT it’s easy to see whats going on. I find that starting from full charge (4.2v), and setting DC amp peak at whatever sags the cells down to 3.7v, is a reasonable peak value, and then half that peak is probably acceptable CDR rating, which you would use rpm limit to get below that. I think the HG2 is independent tester rated at 3a, which probably means 6a is realistic peak to stay below 45c. But if willing to go to 60c or if you are in a cold climate you can pull more. Even my P42A cells I probably rate at 10a CDR, 20a for 3 minutes, 30a for 30s and 40a for 10a. So as a 5p pack that gives me 50a continuous without going over 45c, 100a for 3 minutes which should be more amps than I can use at top speed, 150a for 30s which is definitely longer than it takes to go from 0 to top speed, and the 200a gives me the ability to hit the 190a peak of the controller but ill probably stay under 180a and set that for 5s boost setting.
How fast the hub motor get hot ? I have 60v3000w hub motor and 60v45-50amp controller and my motor hub get 70deg after 4-5 miles of driving is this normal?
Hey buddy check you spokes that may be you problem i don't think your wheel is balanced right and you can possibly be able to take the wobble out but adjusting your spokes. I hope you get it working better good luck.
*ill 2nd that, that’s called death wobble and won’t end well, easy fix, I actually have those tires on mine and they’re very hard to set bead, u need over inflate n true few spokes buddy*
Its not your controller its your motor issue you may have mess up the ball magnet in the motor. It happened to me on my front motor but im not going to replace it i just took it off and used my rear motor
I didn’t drill any holes there was a hole at the bottom of the bike with a port. I use a 72V 12A adjustable DC charger. You can find them on ebay they have like a red casing. 😁 Here is the link to the one I have: www.ebay.com/itm/234168569503?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=LcDOI5juSYy&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=onlbp_obrk-&var=533905138810&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
They do man but they don't want to replace the motor for me not matter what. These Chinese companies tell you that they have warranty on their products but usually its impossible to get a replacement without buying a new one.
I just installed my Sabvcon controller SVMC 7260 but I cannot get my bike to go pass 15m/h (25km/h). Would you know if it is a connection error on my part or perhaps a setting issue?
Hey buddy I was wondering where you got your new Sabvoton controller from I want to get another one the one that came with my bike is restricted and I have no regen with the one I got if you could let me know I would really appreciate it. If you have a link to where you ordered it from that would help me out so much. Thanks for the video I think the problem your having has to do with the rim if it’s not true then it would start to wobble and the faster you go it just start to get worse because of it being unbalanced. I would bet money on that I sure hope you get that fixed. See if you can find a bike shop to help you out also check your spokes get a spoke wrench to check them with. I just got one off Amazon for 10 bucks it’s a motorcycle wrench with different sizes on it. Some of my spokes need tightening. That’s got to be your problem especially because it gets worse at higher speeds. Thanks for your time. Ride safe buddy.
Appreciate it! I’m still looking into the issue but pretty sure it’s my BMS. I bought the controller from NBpower directly by messaging them on what’s app. +86 134 0153 6906
Hey man, I’ve been trying to find an e-bike like you have and I can not find it. Do you mind sending me the link to the bike. I would really appreciate it!
I used a spacer, drilled 2 holes and used 2 small bolts to mount it. If I were to redo it though I would tap threads and screw it in. The fender itself is a surron X front fender from amazon.
The issue is the battery.. sorry to be the one to say it but the battery doesnt have enough output off what the controller needs. So try tuning it down or buy a bigger battery
I had a similar issue setting up my controller and motor. The “thumping” is sort of like a misfire. I’m guessing it’s a unstable magnetic field. This also occurs at higher rpm.
@@aaron092000 I was told that my aftermarket controller was a sinewave, but in fact it was a square wave. I was dealing with a AliExpress seller.. I was a little bit miffed, but pushed through with the seller until they gave me a discount on a sinewave. No problem since. Another issue I was having was with the throttle /display. The old square waves were frying them or something. I still don’t understand how that happened.
There’s other youtubers that have parts lists, I’ll be dropping a new video about the ebike in a few days but I don’t have a parts list video ready yet sorry 😅
Hall Test. This is the self learning feature of the Sabvoton. You connect phase and hall wires in any order (but professional will color match them from the motor to controller), then run test, and the controller will pair the motor to itself. After that if the motor runs backwards you just open the app and select “reverse” to make it run correct direction. The Hall phase shift will appear after the test. Not to be confused with commutation angle of 60 or 120.
@@imho7250 that's for the explication, I don't get everything that's mentioned here but i think I'll manage with this explication and some vids of how it works, tryna get my fist DIY ebike working
@@Killer-wu9hk , to make any controller work, it needs battery power connected, the motor phase and hall sensor connectors connected, the throttle connected, and the ignition wire connected. From there you should be able to open the MQCON app and verify voltage settings match your battery. Then with the rear wheel off the ground you would run the hall test, and the motor will start moving slowly as it checks the relationship between the phases and the hall sensors. After it finishes, and you save it, the motor should run. Of the motor runs forward then its correct, if it runs backwards then in the app you can change the direction. You never need to change any phase wires or hall wires after the initial color matching of all 8 wires. Any mismatch will be fixed inside the controller.
@@imho7250 I'm not sure if the controller will connect to the app because, I bought the bike off alibaba from a company called keyu, they seem reputable because they have their own ebike frame and several types of it, the description mentioned a 25a sabvoton controller, my bike 3000w so ima need an upgrade but when I asked about the controller they said 45a keyu controller, I've never heard of a keyu controller, maybe they made a mistake and ment 45a sabvoton or 25a. Also the low showered sabvoton controllers are not Bluetooth compatible, you have to use the computer app, but there's no tutorials about that
@@Killer-wu9hk , if you make a TH-cam video showing what you have it’s easier to help. There are many controllers. Votol and Kelly need a computer. Sabvoton and Fardriver and YuYangKing use Bluetooth and a phone app.
@@rccrazy what lipo battery's do you have? Alot if not most of the good ones have built in chips for over discharge protection. Though they don't protect against rouge charging.
@aaron092000 most lipos have no form of over discharge protection it's the esc that has the voltage protection parameters and change them with a balance charger. And I use 2 lots of 5 x 9500mah 4s HRB lipos to get 19ah 72v or 20s.
@@rccrazy yeah my bad your right, most don't have discharge protection. Done abit of research and found that some have balance chips inside which could be the case for you 😀 I think maybe like you said, wire combination or phase wires crossing causing unstable magnetic field? Or possibly voltage sag causing the lipo to trip out? I'm curious have you found the solution to this issue? From my experience I was running a 30a bms with 60a peak and when I tried to run over 60a through it, it would do the same thing shown in this video, like a rev limiter on a car. it would only happen once I reached a certain speed too
That's why your bike is actually acting up its doing wheelys it's bad for the bike and motor because your putting streets on motor and controller true bike weren't made for that
Might be worth checking the balance of the rear wheel might not be electrical issues hard to tell
I have the same bike the only problem I have with it is I constantly have to change out the brake pads bc they squeak a ton and I can really do jumps with it bc it’s super heavy and janky but nice vid dude keep it up 👍🏼
Yeah it’s pretty heavy on the back which kind of sucks but I use it mainly for street riding. I ceramic pads are really good and last a long time.
if you dont know already sqeeking brakes is becuase of contamination or eiter pad or disc clean with brakeclean the pad could be sanded with fine grit sandpaper
Like he said check your spokes and change the bearings in the hub
I’m not sure if you fixed the issue with the bike but I’m certain it’s your phase wire combination. Some of these generic motors the color of the phase wires do not match up with the controller and you have to try many different variations so that the motor can run smoothly. Whatever combination you find, you have to also switch the hall sensor wires to match the phase wires.
Very good point
That could actually be the case, I will look into it. Thank you!!
It’s definitely not the phase wire combination. You can connect them in any order, same as the hall sensor wires (except 5v and ground). The Sabvoton is self leaning. It will learn however you connect it, and from there if its running backwards you just flick a switch in the app to reverse direction.
These motors are easy to take apart. It should be checked for check for loose or broken magnets.
Not sure if the issue is fixed yet. Lol
Update on the motor issue?
hiya youll need to check the max current output of your bms it looks like a small battery that controller will pull a solid 100 amps in blink of an eye
Yeah it looks like the BMS is the issue so I’m getting it replaced.
Have you ever fixed that wobbly rear wheel? What caused it?
Hey man what front fender do you have? And does it directly bolt on? Looks great!
It’s a surron X front fender. I did have to drill 2 holes to mount it.
@@arthurbal oh I gochu. Thanks!
Did you run the hall test routine in the mqcon app?
Looking at the rear wheel you can see its out of tune so do some repairs on that wheel and check your bearings also
I know im late to comment Is your axel bolt properly torqued and tight no wear bearing issues or loose spokes as mentioned by others wheel looks loose
Since he removed the motor to fix the flat, we can safely assume if the axle nuts were loose he would have deleted the first part of the video before uploading it, or edited “I found the problem”. Lol
@@imho7250ya, from experience I could tell it was the bms straight away hitting it's peak current and cutting on and off, kind of like a rev limiter
@@aaron092000, yes, thats why all my BMS are bluetooth so i can see whats going on and set them just above what I need so they will still act like a breaker of the lowest position amps. I have my 80a/200a ANT discharge current limit set at 100a while using my old battery which is 25a CDR, but when i make my 5P P42A battery ill set it around 200a until i see what my peak boost amps should be (150a-180a) and then maybe drop BMS current limit to 20a over that.
@@imho7250 sweet! I just ordered a ANT 130/325 bms, the one with 4 wires. I'm making my battery from liitokalas version of the lg hg2 cells. It's gonna be a 20s12p pack now they state it can handle 20a discharge but I don't know about that 😂 that's why I'm aiming for 7-10a per cell and limiting the current so the peak dosent go past 15a per cell and 60c for this reason. Aside from the potential drawbacks these cells have amazing value for the money, I'll make a p42 pack eventually and good luck with your build!
@@aaron092000 ,most manufacturers over-rate their cell’s discharge capability, especially if you are in a hot climate. I used some Liitokala 18650s to populate the empty slots in my 13s5p battery kit that only filled 2p of the kit. After unwrapping one cell I found the underlying cells were rated at 10a by the manufacturer but independent testers rated them at 5a, and i find that going over that the pack heats up rather quickly.
Once your pack is made you will just have to see how they perform as a pack. Since you have an ANT it’s easy to see whats going on. I find that starting from full charge (4.2v), and setting DC amp peak at whatever sags the cells down to 3.7v, is a reasonable peak value, and then half that peak is probably acceptable CDR rating, which you would use rpm limit to get below that.
I think the HG2 is independent tester rated at 3a, which probably means 6a is realistic peak to stay below 45c. But if willing to go to 60c or if you are in a cold climate you can pull more.
Even my P42A cells I probably rate at 10a CDR, 20a for 3 minutes, 30a for 30s and 40a for 10a. So as a 5p pack that gives me 50a continuous without going over 45c, 100a for 3 minutes which should be more amps than I can use at top speed, 150a for 30s which is definitely longer than it takes to go from 0 to top speed, and the 200a gives me the ability to hit the 190a peak of the controller but ill probably stay under 180a and set that for 5s boost setting.
How fast the hub motor get hot ? I have 60v3000w hub motor and 60v45-50amp controller and my motor hub get 70deg after 4-5 miles of driving is this normal?
Damn dude you need to balance that back tire bad
Hey buddy check you spokes that may be you problem i don't think your wheel is balanced right and you can possibly be able to take the wobble out but adjusting your spokes. I hope you get it working better good luck.
*ill 2nd that, that’s called death wobble and won’t end well, easy fix, I actually have those tires on mine and they’re very hard to set bead, u need over inflate n true few spokes buddy*
Well wouldn't it do that wobble the entire time if that was the case, and not just when he hits high rpm? Doesn't add up I'm sorry.
@@LazyEyePoliticsit's the bms
Its not your controller its your motor issue you may have mess up the ball magnet in the motor. It happened to me on my front motor but im not going to replace it i just took it off and used my rear motor
How do you charge it did you drill a new hole for a charging port nobody never explained this to me ..
I didn’t drill any holes there was a hole at the bottom of the bike with a port. I use a 72V 12A adjustable DC charger. You can find them on ebay they have like a red casing. 😁 Here is the link to the one I have: www.ebay.com/itm/234168569503?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=LcDOI5juSYy&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=onlbp_obrk-&var=533905138810&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
@@arthurbal
Okay I must have got an older model frame mine's only had one hole for the ignition port?
@@duwaine96 Maybe, it’s at the bottom of the bike in the area where the stem is
How do you install the rear light
Would the company have access to more motors might need a replacement motor
They do man but they don't want to replace the motor for me not matter what. These Chinese companies tell you that they have warranty on their products but usually its impossible to get a replacement without buying a new one.
I just installed my Sabvcon controller SVMC 7260 but I cannot get my bike to go pass 15m/h (25km/h). Would you know if it is a connection error on my part or perhaps a setting issue?
Broken clutch or direct?
Dope video 💯
Hey buddy I was wondering where you got your new Sabvoton controller from I want to get another one the one that came with my bike is restricted and I have no regen with the one I got if you could let me know I would really appreciate it. If you have a link to where you ordered it from that would help me out so much.
Thanks for the video I think the problem your having has to do with the rim if it’s not true then it would start to wobble and the faster you go it just start to get worse because of it being unbalanced. I would bet money on that I sure hope you get that fixed. See if you can find a bike shop to help you out also check your spokes get a spoke wrench to check them with. I just got one off Amazon for 10 bucks it’s a motorcycle wrench with different sizes on it. Some of my spokes need tightening. That’s got to be your problem especially because it gets worse at higher speeds. Thanks for your time. Ride safe buddy.
Appreciate it! I’m still looking into the issue but pretty sure it’s my BMS. I bought the controller from NBpower directly by messaging them on what’s app. +86 134 0153 6906
were can I buy a mqcon controller 72v 150 amp 8000 watt controller from ,am in uk
What motor T number are you using?
qs205 3T which is for speed and 5T is for torque
the bike isnt ment for normal mountain bike brakes best to use moped size calipers like 4 pistons
Hey man, I’ve been trying to find an e-bike like you have and I can not find it. Do you mind sending me the link to the bike. I would really appreciate it!
Hey! All the parts were ordered separately and I put it together myself. I'm going to do a parts list video soon so stay tuned for that.
Hey man how did you mount the front fender?
I used a spacer, drilled 2 holes and used 2 small bolts to mount it. If I were to redo it though I would tap threads and screw it in. The fender itself is a surron X front fender from amazon.
saw the same video u did, good choises
I had the same problem I kept on riding an the axle broke check your Regen
THIS.
@@LazyEyePoliticsit's the bms
I have the same bike it's so damn heavy it's like jumping on a tank 🤣🤣
It’s not too bad my 125 is heavier
The issue is the battery.. sorry to be the one to say it but the battery doesnt have enough output off what the controller needs. So try tuning it down or buy a bigger battery
that motor issue is most likely a bearing issue.
Can you provide the links to the electronics? Thanks
Most of the stuff I bought from NBpower they have a whatsapp number I can give you.
@@arthurbal does that include the wheels?
@@ryancollar1 Yup 285 for the controller and display, 275 for the front wheel, and 475 for the rear wheel with the qs205 motor
I had a similar issue setting up my controller and motor. The “thumping” is sort of like a misfire. I’m guessing it’s a unstable magnetic field. This also occurs at higher rpm.
Did you manage to find the cause of the issue and fix it?
@@aaron092000 I was told that my aftermarket controller was a sinewave, but in fact it was a square wave. I was dealing with a AliExpress seller.. I was a little bit miffed, but pushed through with the seller until they gave me a discount on a sinewave. No problem since. Another issue I was having was with the throttle /display. The old square waves were frying them or something. I still don’t understand how that happened.
What size is the tire and front rim?
19in
🤔 no error codes ? ☝️🤟👽🚲
controller protect code comes up after a while
Good money after bad.
Parts list?
There’s other youtubers that have parts lists, I’ll be dropping a new video about the ebike in a few days but I don’t have a parts list video ready yet sorry 😅
I did drop a parts list if you are interested. 👀
Sounds like a gear has cracked in your clutch
Can some one explain to me what the, "hull test" (idk if that's correct) is?
Hall Test. This is the self learning feature of the Sabvoton. You connect phase and hall wires in any order (but professional will color match them from the motor to controller), then run test, and the controller will pair the motor to itself. After that if the motor runs backwards you just open the app and select “reverse” to make it run correct direction.
The Hall phase shift will appear after the test. Not to be confused with commutation angle of 60 or 120.
@@imho7250 that's for the explication, I don't get everything that's mentioned here but i think I'll manage with this explication and some vids of how it works, tryna get my fist DIY ebike working
@@Killer-wu9hk , to make any controller work, it needs battery power connected, the motor phase and hall sensor connectors connected, the throttle connected, and the ignition wire connected. From there you should be able to open the MQCON app and verify voltage settings match your battery.
Then with the rear wheel off the ground you would run the hall test, and the motor will start moving slowly as it checks the relationship between the phases and the hall sensors. After it finishes, and you save it, the motor should run.
Of the motor runs forward then its correct, if it runs backwards then in the app you can change the direction.
You never need to change any phase wires or hall wires after the initial color matching of all 8 wires. Any mismatch will be fixed inside the controller.
@@imho7250 I'm not sure if the controller will connect to the app because, I bought the bike off alibaba from a company called keyu, they seem reputable because they have their own ebike frame and several types of it, the description mentioned a 25a sabvoton controller, my bike 3000w so ima need an upgrade but when I asked about the controller they said 45a keyu controller, I've never heard of a keyu controller, maybe they made a mistake and ment 45a sabvoton or 25a. Also the low showered sabvoton controllers are not Bluetooth compatible, you have to use the computer app, but there's no tutorials about that
@@Killer-wu9hk , if you make a TH-cam video showing what you have it’s easier to help. There are many controllers. Votol and Kelly need a computer. Sabvoton and Fardriver and YuYangKing use Bluetooth and a phone app.
Bro its have back fire 0:14
Wtf why would you think it's the controller? 😂 All wheel inside or spokes.
It's the bms lol
It can't be the bms because I run lipos without bms and I have the same issue on one of my bikes.
It's a wire combination issue or loose wire maybe.
@@rccrazy what lipo battery's do you have? Alot if not most of the good ones have built in chips for over discharge protection. Though they don't protect against rouge charging.
@aaron092000 most lipos have no form of over discharge protection it's the esc that has the voltage protection parameters and change them with a balance charger.
And I use 2 lots of 5 x 9500mah 4s HRB lipos to get 19ah 72v or 20s.
@@rccrazy yeah my bad your right, most don't have discharge protection. Done abit of research and found that some have balance chips inside which could be the case for you 😀 I think maybe like you said, wire combination or phase wires crossing causing unstable magnetic field? Or possibly voltage sag causing the lipo to trip out? I'm curious have you found the solution to this issue? From my experience I was running a 30a bms with 60a peak and when I tried to run over 60a through it, it would do the same thing shown in this video, like a rev limiter on a car. it would only happen once I reached a certain speed too
IT'S NOT THE MOTOR , ITS YOUR RIM SEE MY CHANNEL WHAT HAPPENED TO MY RIM AND WHAT I DID SE EXACT BIKE
I’m pretty sure my rim is straight but I’ll check it out. The issue seemed to go away but my BMS is having a problem so i’m getting it replaced
I see a wobble on the video in the rim . What is the problem BMS
@@TECHSUPPORTEBIKE bms is broken keeps randomly showing 5v a cell then goes back to 3.8 and it’s glitching
Ok ,but check the rim am telling you something is wrong with it
@@TECHSUPPORTEBIKE I'd agree with you on the rim. Looked off to me.
That's why your bike is actually acting up its doing wheelys it's bad for the bike and motor because your putting streets on motor and controller true bike weren't made for that