Your channel is a mandatory must watch for all NSX owners. Should be stickied on the NSX Prime forums. Very informative. Don’t stop because there is very little people who knows how to work on these cars and you give me confidence to do the work myself.
I appreciate the kind words. A lot of what I'm doing is just putting some of the knowledge from the Prime forums into practice on yet another medium. If that helps propagate what I've learned myself from the NSX community then the extra effort to record/edit is worthwhile. Cheers!
I recently had the timing belt , water pump, thermostat, and all fluids flushed, and decided to go ahead with all hoses. Following wiki prime , ordered all OEM Honda hoses, new clamps, bolts, and gaskets . My tech did them all for an additional $500 labour. Took about 5 days off and on in between other jobs. He and I looked at all all the hoses ( 20 years old - never been done) and absolutely no signs of breakdown , or anything. Car is a 2000, 47,000 miles. I am glad I got them done, but not like anything catastrophic was on the verge of happening. It would be considered a garage queen for the most part. Thank you for the video, I enjoy your channel very much .
I would recommend unclipping the cable from the water valve (controls coolant flow into the heater core) and manually opening the water valve when draining/filling. That eliminates the need to mess with the Climate Control Unit to force the valve open. It also allows the valve to come out of the car to deal with the hoses connected to it vice having it "tethered" to the cable. Also, I took a crap load of pictures of all the hose clamp orientations when I did mine to make sure I positioned them back the way they were ("proven winner" positions with respect to rubbing) when I installed the new hose. The SOS kit includes 23 hoses, but really only 22 are required. The 23rd hose in the overflow line from the coolant tank to direct the coolant down along the front firewall and is "open ended"...since it 1) is open ended, and 2) doesn't see or need to hold pressure, it doesn't have to be replaced if you order the parts individually by digging through the parts catalog pages. 91-94 AT has the most hoses, followed by the 91-94 MT. The 95+ with drive-by-wire allowing the elimination of the Electronic Air Control Valve (EACV) and the Fast Idle Valve (FIV) that reduced the number of hoses. There are still hoses around the throttle body to help keep the throttle body warm and prevent the small air passages from freezing over in the winter when the air is moist.
Probably the best plan with the water valve since you do end up un-clipping the cable and removing it in the course of replacing that other hose. I did notice the one extra for the overflow that I won't be using due to running a redundant catch bottle with it's own tube. Pictures are a great idea, although I've just been doing the hoses one at a time for the most part or in small groups so no issues just remembering which way things were pointing....that or I'm having to re-invent the wheel anyway where I'm replacing 3rd party worm drive clamps.
@@LapoftheWorld Also, I checked the part number for the upgraded piping by the heater core...OEMACURAPARTS(dot)COM shows the part with the bleeder screw to be part number 79741-SL0-A02 (it superceeds the A01 version) - fitment is all 91-05 NSXs and runs about $70. The 7974B-SL0_A01 part number yielded no results. Yeah, I know what is printed on your part... www.oemacuraparts.com/oem-parts/acura-pipe-a-heater-79741sl0a02?c=Zz1lbGVjdHJpY2FsLWV4aGF1c3QtaGVhdGVyLWZ1ZWwmcz13YXRlci12YWx2ZSZsPTEyJm49QXNzZW1ibGllcyBQYWdlJmE9YWN1cmEmbz1uc3gtY291cGUmeT0xOTk3JnQ9bnN4LXQmZT02LXNwZWVkLW1hbnVhbA%3D%3D
@@stevenglover4183 Thanks, I'm sure that'll help with some confusion. I may add that to the description in case someone doesn't make it this far into the comments. Bizarre because I haven't changed that sticker. Maybe foreign market? There's some chance it came from ATR, but I don't remember as it's been a decade.
Great video! One tool I really like to use for coolant hoses are the dentist pick tools. If one is too forceful they can break the hose but it is very useful when taking off the older hoses which you are planning to throw out anyway. For those with a type-r maintenance lid the hoses and fuel lines all dry out faster, especially when parked outside or driven on hot days. I think that's a worthwhile price to pay for being able to see the engine though!
Picks are great to have around. I was lucky this time and most of the hoses came off with just a little twisting and wiggling by pliers/hand respectively.
Possibly not. I only use them a couple of places, and as you could imagine they are places that are really difficult to try and get a camera angle on. Even then it's more of a convenience than a necessity, the level of "convenience" depends on your patience, pain tolerance, and the size of your hands.
I live in Japan and am about to get an NSX hence im here researching repairs. I may be able to help with translations to help get responses from japanese mechanics
I'd always be happy to hear from Japanese owners or mechanics. We know a few from the community, but I suspect the majority don't know if us and vice versa.
It's taking me longer than that purely because I didn't plan as far ahead as I needed to. I had the hoses all in-hand, and the appropriate tools, what I didn't anticipate was needing to replace so many clamps, and said clamps being unobtanium in the U.S. (without being shipped from Japan). Lol. I'd have had the actual work done in a casual weekend if not for waiting for things in the mail.
@@LapoftheWorld Yeah, I just ordered all clamps and hoses from MITA maybe six months prior to actually doing the job. $650 to my door. The lower radiator hose is a MFer.
@@LapoftheWorld also, if you haven't already gotten to it, I recommend using plastic trim tools and wedging them between the aluminum pipes and the rubber hoses. That way you can lift the hoses above the pipe to cut them off and not risk gouging the pipes. The previous replacement job gouged the pipes a little and I had to sand them smooth with 2k grit paper.
@@dmanatan Not a bad idea. I'll have to see if I can accrue some teflon wedges or similar before I have to do hoses again. Probably could use some trim tools anyway.
I need to tackle this at some point on my car. Would you recommend starting from front to rear and does the SOS directions give ample description of which hose is which in order to keep track of them while changing them.
I think order of changing the hoses is personal preference. I just went one compartment at a time and typically one hose at a time just to be sure. The SOS diagram is solid, but they've really just save you the work of printing out some diagrams from the service manual or online. Nice touch though.
The way I always get those hoses of is to put a small non sharp, preferably plastic, object between the hose and piping, and then squirt some wd40 in between. Then, use the same object to move it around the piping and still in between the hose and if needed, squirt some more. That way, even the most stubborn hose comes of in a breeze😉👍
Definitely a few ways to tackle that situation and that seems like a decent trick to add to the bag in situations where it might be hard to get pliers onto the hose etc.
Your channel is a mandatory must watch for all NSX owners. Should be stickied on the NSX Prime forums. Very informative. Don’t stop because there is very little people who knows how to work on these cars and you give me confidence to do the work myself.
I appreciate the kind words. A lot of what I'm doing is just putting some of the knowledge from the Prime forums into practice on yet another medium. If that helps propagate what I've learned myself from the NSX community then the extra effort to record/edit is worthwhile. Cheers!
I recently had the timing belt , water pump, thermostat, and all fluids flushed, and decided to go ahead with all hoses. Following wiki prime , ordered all OEM Honda hoses, new clamps, bolts, and gaskets .
My tech did them all for an additional $500 labour. Took about 5 days off and on in between other jobs. He and I looked at all all the hoses ( 20 years old - never been done) and absolutely no signs of breakdown , or anything. Car is a 2000, 47,000 miles. I am glad I got them done, but not like anything catastrophic was on the verge of happening. It would be considered a garage queen for the most part. Thank you for the video, I enjoy your channel very much .
I would recommend unclipping the cable from the water valve (controls coolant flow into the heater core) and manually opening the water valve when draining/filling. That eliminates the need to mess with the Climate Control Unit to force the valve open. It also allows the valve to come out of the car to deal with the hoses connected to it vice having it "tethered" to the cable.
Also, I took a crap load of pictures of all the hose clamp orientations when I did mine to make sure I positioned them back the way they were ("proven winner" positions with respect to rubbing) when I installed the new hose.
The SOS kit includes 23 hoses, but really only 22 are required. The 23rd hose in the overflow line from the coolant tank to direct the coolant down along the front firewall and is "open ended"...since it 1) is open ended, and 2) doesn't see or need to hold pressure, it doesn't have to be replaced if you order the parts individually by digging through the parts catalog pages.
91-94 AT has the most hoses, followed by the 91-94 MT. The 95+ with drive-by-wire allowing the elimination of the Electronic Air Control Valve (EACV) and the Fast Idle Valve (FIV) that reduced the number of hoses. There are still hoses around the throttle body to help keep the throttle body warm and prevent the small air passages from freezing over in the winter when the air is moist.
Probably the best plan with the water valve since you do end up un-clipping the cable and removing it in the course of replacing that other hose. I did notice the one extra for the overflow that I won't be using due to running a redundant catch bottle with it's own tube. Pictures are a great idea, although I've just been doing the hoses one at a time for the most part or in small groups so no issues just remembering which way things were pointing....that or I'm having to re-invent the wheel anyway where I'm replacing 3rd party worm drive clamps.
@@LapoftheWorld Also, I checked the part number for the upgraded piping by the heater core...OEMACURAPARTS(dot)COM shows the part with the bleeder screw to be part number 79741-SL0-A02 (it superceeds the A01 version) - fitment is all 91-05 NSXs and runs about $70. The 7974B-SL0_A01 part number yielded no results. Yeah, I know what is printed on your part...
www.oemacuraparts.com/oem-parts/acura-pipe-a-heater-79741sl0a02?c=Zz1lbGVjdHJpY2FsLWV4aGF1c3QtaGVhdGVyLWZ1ZWwmcz13YXRlci12YWx2ZSZsPTEyJm49QXNzZW1ibGllcyBQYWdlJmE9YWN1cmEmbz1uc3gtY291cGUmeT0xOTk3JnQ9bnN4LXQmZT02LXNwZWVkLW1hbnVhbA%3D%3D
@@stevenglover4183 Thanks, I'm sure that'll help with some confusion. I may add that to the description in case someone doesn't make it this far into the comments. Bizarre because I haven't changed that sticker. Maybe foreign market? There's some chance it came from ATR, but I don't remember as it's been a decade.
i did the SOS hose package. did it over the weekend. i just replaced all hose, cut the old ones, and refill/bleed coolant once.
Great video! One tool I really like to use for coolant hoses are the dentist pick tools. If one is too forceful they can break the hose but it is very useful when taking off the older hoses which you are planning to throw out anyway. For those with a type-r maintenance lid the hoses and fuel lines all dry out faster, especially when parked outside or driven on hot days. I think that's a worthwhile price to pay for being able to see the engine though!
Picks are great to have around. I was lucky this time and most of the hoses came off with just a little twisting and wiggling by pliers/hand respectively.
Keep the info coming.
Were the fancy spring clamp removal pliers demonstrated in the video? Maybe I missed it.
Possibly not. I only use them a couple of places, and as you could imagine they are places that are really difficult to try and get a camera angle on. Even then it's more of a convenience than a necessity, the level of "convenience" depends on your patience, pain tolerance, and the size of your hands.
I live in Japan and am about to get an NSX hence im here researching repairs. I may be able to help with translations to help get responses from japanese mechanics
I'd always be happy to hear from Japanese owners or mechanics. We know a few from the community, but I suspect the majority don't know if us and vice versa.
Thanks for the info 👍
Recently replaced all my hoses and clamps. Some of the hoses were 18 years old, I swear. Took me 10 days 🤣
It's taking me longer than that purely because I didn't plan as far ahead as I needed to. I had the hoses all in-hand, and the appropriate tools, what I didn't anticipate was needing to replace so many clamps, and said clamps being unobtanium in the U.S. (without being shipped from Japan). Lol. I'd have had the actual work done in a casual weekend if not for waiting for things in the mail.
@@LapoftheWorld Yeah, I just ordered all clamps and hoses from MITA maybe six months prior to actually doing the job. $650 to my door. The lower radiator hose is a MFer.
@@LapoftheWorld also, if you haven't already gotten to it, I recommend using plastic trim tools and wedging them between the aluminum pipes and the rubber hoses. That way you can lift the hoses above the pipe to cut them off and not risk gouging the pipes. The previous replacement job gouged the pipes a little and I had to sand them smooth with 2k grit paper.
@@dmanatan Not a bad idea. I'll have to see if I can accrue some teflon wedges or similar before I have to do hoses again. Probably could use some trim tools anyway.
I need to tackle this at some point on my car. Would you recommend starting from front to rear and does the SOS directions give ample description of which hose is which in order to keep track of them while changing them.
I think order of changing the hoses is personal preference. I just went one compartment at a time and typically one hose at a time just to be sure. The SOS diagram is solid, but they've really just save you the work of printing out some diagrams from the service manual or online. Nice touch though.
The way I always get those hoses of is to put a small non sharp, preferably plastic, object between the hose and piping, and then squirt some wd40 in between. Then, use the same object to move it around the piping and still in between the hose and if needed, squirt some more. That way, even the most stubborn hose comes of in a breeze😉👍
Definitely a few ways to tackle that situation and that seems like a decent trick to add to the bag in situations where it might be hard to get pliers onto the hose etc.
Glad no long handled gardening tools or immoral pleasure seekers were used for this repair 😉