Hey great vid, I've got a 2009 Sierra which sometimes steam comes from the radiator area, the coolant levels are good and the temp on the dash is always good temp. I've looked every where for a leak and can't find anything, got any ideas?
Cool tip to keep the heater knob turned to red max heat. Tip 2: switch off dec ool to avoid dexcool sludge problemthat fails rafiators and heater cores. Tip 3...Flush twice to get rid of old dex ool. 18 qt capacity so use 2.5 gallons concentratr gold coolant. Put all the 2.5 gal concentrate first. Then deionized (best) or distilled (ok) water remaining ~2 gallons. It will be less because of the Quart or 2 water that did not frain out if the heater core and block. This will give u 60% concentration giving the -40 degree F protection easily. No charts or math needed. Best concentrate coolant is the $12 prestone or $10 super tech at wallyworld 150,000 mile gold color coolant.
I have 2001 GMC Yukon XL and my local AutoZone said it takes 15 quarts (3.75 gallons) of antifreeze but after draining my coolant it only took 9 quarts (2.25 gallons). I don’t know where the remaining 6 quarts supposed to go, I unscrewed that plastic plug on the drivers side. Am thinking of buying a new temperature gage and flushing the heater core, sadly I don’t have the owners manual to check the amount of coolant so am going by what the guy on AutoZone said.
You can probably find out for sure online using your vehicle info; but that seems about right. That would probably be for the entire system; Coolant in the radiator, hoses, overflow box, heater core and in the block. If you only opened the radiator and let drain, then the rest is still in the core or block. You are correct, that is why I flush and refill the radiator a few times to get as much of the “old” coolant in the system diluted, because it does not all drain out when opening the radiator. Good Luck.
I have a 2000 Chevy Silverado 4.3 v6 and wanted to change my coolant there is still coolant inside the tank but I unscrew the cap off the tank put a drain pan under and unscrewed the screw from the radiator and no coolant drained but I looked back at the coolant tank and some coolant was gone what could this be?
Hello. Some radiator models/years do not have a drain plug on the bottom. In this case I think the only way to drain the radiator is to actually remove one of the lower hoses. You can probably find some additional instructions online, be careful, it may be pretty hot.
I can find the spout where you put the small hose to drain but I can't find the lever to turn to release the liquid but on the passenger side of the radiator there's a big hose at the bottom of the radiator can I drain it that way
Yes I believe you can drain from the large bottom hose. Some people have commented that their radiator did not have a drain valve and they drained by removing the large hose. It may be hot if you let it run for any so be careful. Thanks & Good Luck.
@@harryshouse7012 recently replaced my radiator last Sunday 2005 yukon 5.3. Old one cracked didn't have drain option, new one does and I got some hose to drain more discretely. Wasn't too bad of a job thanks for getting me through it brother. Now for the power steering pump, steering box, and o ring.
If there is no drain plug on the radiator then you could remove the lower radiator hose to drain. Be careful if it has been running, it could be pretty hot. Thanks.
Hello, thanks for the comment. There was another person who came across this same issue. What they did was remove the lower radiator hose to drain the coolant. Probably going to be a little messier and possibly hotter depending on how long it has been running. Hope this helps, good luck.
@@harryshouse7012 thanks yup that's what I always did way back.. was just confused why the hole was there with no valve.. my replacement has one. But it drains so slow now I'd still just take the hose off 🤣
It’s best to find out the capacity of the system and make sure to put half of antifreeze after flush and good drain. Then add tap water and go through cycles to make sure air is out.
There are probably better ways to do it than I did. Maybe folks can at least figure out what works best for them. I have always heard that minerals in tap water were not good for the system so I use distilled. I don’t have any data showing tap vs distilled and what might happen, so all hearsay from me. Anyways, thanks for the comments, gives options/ things to think about if anyone is doing a flush.
Lol, Is it really bad? Probably has a lot to do with the truck running and I don’t have any type of microphone, all recorded on my phone. Will make better attempt next time. Thanks.
Ohh come on…things just seem so much more fun if you throw some math in 😃. Since I flushed with straight water, 50/50 would not get me back to the mix level I wanted easily. Will admit 50/50 would be much easier on a straight drain and fill. Either way thanks for the comment and simplification.
@@KevinRiceSLOI was gonna say it’s much cheaper to mix your own as well. There is many ways of doing it, the way I see it, as long as at the end it’s got its proper mix and coolant type. All is well :)
I quit watching when you started talking about measuring the coolant that you remove so you could replace it at proper levels. Flush and replace 50.50 is easier faster and bona fide expert blend from the bottle..folks mixing tap water and concentrate grave mistake. Distilled and concentrate too much effort and not an upgrade.. Just my opinion does not make it the only way at all..
Thanks for the comment. I would agree that 50/50 would be much easier to keep up with as far as keeping the ratio correct. A tester is probably the best way to verify proper mix after all said and done. I did not want to be flushing out “new” antifreeze when doing this which is why I chose water for the flush then add in concentrate at the end. Thanks again.
Was it the information that you found useless or flushing a radiator that you think is useless? Any comments to help other is well appreciated. Thanks.
Yea explaining how and where exactly the valve is would make it more useful. All I saw was unnecessary products used instead. But thx for the analytics.
@@armandobroncas991 dude, I just did my radiator this weekend, it had the nipple for the hose but it had no petcock. There was an area for the petcock to be that was pre-molded into the radiator, but there was no valve there so I had to end up dropping the lower radiator hose.
@@armandobroncas991 that is the reason I was confused. Your video is perfect because there should be a petcock there, mine just wasn't so I was supremely confused.
Good information
Thanks
Hey great vid, I've got a 2009 Sierra which sometimes steam comes from the radiator area, the coolant levels are good and the temp on the dash is always good temp. I've looked every where for a leak and can't find anything, got any ideas?
The tester is a hydrometer and when you were squeezing the upper house is called burping.
Cool tip to keep the heater knob turned to red max heat.
Tip 2: switch off dec ool to avoid dexcool sludge problemthat fails rafiators and heater cores.
Tip 3...Flush twice to get rid of old dex ool.
18 qt capacity so use 2.5 gallons concentratr gold coolant.
Put all the 2.5 gal concentrate first.
Then deionized (best) or distilled (ok) water remaining ~2 gallons. It will be less because of the Quart or 2 water that did not frain out if the heater core and block.
This will give u 60% concentration giving the -40 degree F protection easily.
No charts or math needed.
Best concentrate coolant is the $12 prestone or $10 super tech at wallyworld 150,000 mile gold color coolant.
I have 2001 GMC Yukon XL and my local AutoZone said it takes 15 quarts (3.75 gallons) of antifreeze but after draining my coolant it only took 9 quarts (2.25 gallons). I don’t know where the remaining 6 quarts supposed to go, I unscrewed that plastic plug on the drivers side.
Am thinking of buying a new temperature gage and flushing the heater core, sadly I don’t have the owners manual to check the amount of coolant so am going by what the guy on AutoZone said.
You can probably find out for sure online using your vehicle info; but that seems about right. That would probably be for the entire system; Coolant in the radiator, hoses, overflow box, heater core and in the block. If you only opened the radiator and let drain, then the rest is still in the core or block. You are correct, that is why I flush and refill the radiator a few times to get as much of the “old” coolant in the system diluted, because it does not all drain out when opening the radiator. Good Luck.
The rest of the coolant stayed in ur engine bro
I have a 2000 Chevy Silverado 4.3 v6 and wanted to change my coolant there is still coolant inside the tank but I unscrew the cap off the tank put a drain pan under and unscrewed the screw from the radiator and no coolant drained but I looked back at the coolant tank and some coolant was gone what could this be?
thanks
No problem
I have an 05 and couldn't find a drain hose yours has a drain plug? Will look for it
Hello. Some radiator models/years do not have a drain plug on the bottom. In this case I think the only way to drain the radiator is to actually remove one of the lower hoses. You can probably find some additional instructions online, be careful, it may be pretty hot.
I can find the spout where you put the small hose to drain but I can't find the lever to turn to release the liquid but on the passenger side of the radiator there's a big hose at the bottom of the radiator can I drain it that way
Yes I believe you can drain from the large bottom hose. Some people have commented that their radiator did not have a drain valve and they drained by removing the large hose. It may be hot if you let it run for any so be careful. Thanks & Good Luck.
Great video just need to show opening closing valve
I think some others wanted to see this also. Maybe I will try to get a video of doing this too. Thanks.
@@harryshouse7012 recently replaced my radiator last Sunday 2005 yukon 5.3. Old one cracked didn't have drain option, new one does and I got some hose to drain more discretely. Wasn't too bad of a job thanks for getting me through it brother. Now for the power steering pump, steering box, and o ring.
What if it doesn't have a twist screw to flush it out...what do you do then
If there is no drain plug on the radiator then you could remove the lower radiator hose to drain. Be careful if it has been running, it could be pretty hot. Thanks.
Looking at my radiator drain on 2004 Silverado 2500 HD and it's there but looks like is solid plastic like there's no valve in there.
Hello, thanks for the comment. There was another person who came across this same issue. What they did was remove the lower radiator hose to drain the coolant. Probably going to be a little messier and possibly hotter depending on how long it has been running. Hope this helps, good luck.
@@harryshouse7012 thanks yup that's what I always did way back.. was just confused why the hole was there with no valve.. my replacement has one. But it drains so slow now I'd still just take the hose off 🤣
It’s best to find out the capacity of the system and make sure to put half of antifreeze after flush and good drain. Then add tap water and go through cycles to make sure air is out.
Distilled water not tap...too many minerals and rust producing natural iron etc...50/50 is not tap...distilled and coolant..
There are probably better ways to do it than I did. Maybe folks can at least figure out what works best for them. I have always heard that minerals in tap water were not good for the system so I use distilled. I don’t have any data showing tap vs distilled and what might happen, so all hearsay from me. Anyways, thanks for the comments, gives options/ things to think about if anyone is doing a flush.
a cockpit is where the pilots fly the plane from
😂.. exactly.. I think he means "petcock"..
Another thing I gotta Google... why t.f. is it called that?
What is up with the audio bro?
Lol, Is it really bad? Probably has a lot to do with the truck running and I don’t have any type of microphone, all recorded on my phone. Will make better attempt next time. Thanks.
Petcock not cockpit
Lol, Yep someone else caught that and commented before. Hopefully no one will go looking for a “radiator cockpit valve”. Petcock is the correct term.
Use distilled- not tap- jesus
My 2003 manual says to only use tap water.
Distilled goes in battery.
Tap water will cause rust. Too many minerals. Distilled has no minerals so less chance of rusting.
u missed the most important part! how to put the drian hose, u skipped it
I think some others wanted to see this also. Maybe I will try to get a video of doing this too. Thanks.
Bro your making it too technical, just drain and fill. Use the 50/50 blend which is easier. This isn’t rocket science.
Ohh come on…things just seem so much more fun if you throw some math in 😃. Since I flushed with straight water, 50/50 would not get me back to the mix level I wanted easily. Will admit 50/50 would be much easier on a straight drain and fill. Either way thanks for the comment and simplification.
@@harryshouse7012 LOL
50/50 costs nearly twice as much
This comment reeks of someone who fucks something up because they don't RTFM
@@KevinRiceSLOI was gonna say it’s much cheaper to mix your own as well. There is many ways of doing it, the way I see it, as long as at the end it’s got its proper mix and coolant type. All is well :)
I quit watching when you started talking about measuring the coolant that you remove so you could replace it at proper levels.
Flush and replace 50.50 is easier faster and bona fide expert blend from the bottle..folks mixing tap water and concentrate grave mistake.
Distilled and concentrate too much effort and not an upgrade..
Just my opinion does not make it the only way at all..
Thanks for the comment. I would agree that 50/50 would be much easier to keep up with as far as keeping the ratio correct. A tester is probably the best way to verify proper mix after all said and done. I did not want to be flushing out “new” antifreeze when doing this which is why I chose water for the flush then add in concentrate at the end. Thanks again.
Useless
Was it the information that you found useless or flushing a radiator that you think is useless? Any comments to help other is well appreciated. Thanks.
@@harryshouse7012 I see you connect 1/2 inch hose to the nipple, but how do you open it to let the fluid drain from the radiator
Yea explaining how and where exactly the valve is would make it more useful. All I saw was unnecessary products used instead. But thx for the analytics.
@@armandobroncas991 dude, I just did my radiator this weekend, it had the nipple for the hose but it had no petcock. There was an area for the petcock to be that was pre-molded into the radiator, but there was no valve there so I had to end up dropping the lower radiator hose.
@@armandobroncas991 that is the reason I was confused. Your video is perfect because there should be a petcock there, mine just wasn't so I was supremely confused.