The sled idea is freaking brilliant. It’s like using a fixture for machining metal and makes SO MUCH sense! I always learn something from you; thank you. -Castor
Your skills. With the patience that you maliciously exercise is an art in itself. No wonder your peices come out so beautifully done. You are an artist. Stellar.
@@gordonaddison307 Thank you for taking the time to video your work. Camera angles that capture exactly what you are doing. Recording. Editing. And then there's your work! I've watched other skilled people repair restore and refurbish. They do great work too. But nothing on the level that you show and teach. So thank you for taking the time. And caring for the details that make a difference. I wonder what you did in early life that instilled such discipline.
Great video thank you. I've got a weird break to repair. I'll think about how you've done yours and I'll film mine and put a video out too, as it's quite different. Cheers Jamie
I really enjoyed you approach. Every day tools and a patient approach. File work is key. Thank you I may repair my grandfather plane totes. I felt reassured by the technique you used Thank You Gordon
Thank you for the kind words and you are very welcome sir. My wife would tell you that I’m often “too” patient. 🤪 But yes, file work is so very important.
Great video and job well done. I completely agree with using files. I use them all the time when making axe handles to get the final shape. I just picked up a Siegley and as soon as I get a chance i will try my hand at repairing the tote.
As for all your videos, very informative and inspirational 👍🏻. One little tip from a user plane restorer and fettler, for the part of boring the hole for the bolt and nut through the «new» wood at the top of the rear handle/tote or the knob: I find that boring from the bottom of the handle with a 1/4 inch or 6 mm brad point bit until the brad point reveals the center spot of the new hole. Then I use a 3-12mm step bit to bore from the top of the tote/knob using the brad mark as the center of the hole. After 12 repaired totes and 2 knobs this way I can say that this way has saved me hours of filing, sanding, head scratching and frustration compared to the knife/gouge/dremel way. The cheap 3-12mm (I am certain there is an imperial counterpart to this metric step bit) I use leaves a very crisp and fuzzy free edge and the fit for the nut is just about as perfect as you would want. 👍🏻👌🏼
Thank you for sharing and I have done something very similar to what you explained. The critical part of course is to stop when you see the brad point. Pushing on thru (intentionally or otherwise) will surely blow out. (Been there, done that 😡) I’ll have to give your method a try…. I do like the idea of not running a dremel freehand.
Nice work! lots of guitar repair folks use CA on rosewood with good results. I had thought about a couple of tiny dowells to reinforce since it is a small gluing area but I couldn't think of a way to make it 100% invisible. I was surprised that we did not see you, in the process of selecting the patch, to put some finish on to get a better idea of the actual color match. I think the color match is the one thing that could have come out better.
@@gordonaddison307, "Oops" is not our favorite word, but mistakes (large or small) are nature's stepping-stones to knowledge. (Jerry's right, as the Guitar Doctor for Stars Guitars in San Francisco in the late '70's-early '80's, sanding dust [from the right species, of course] and super glue, leveled and flattened with 400 wet or dry with lemon oil and then polished with Miguires(sp) green auto body rubbing compound and finally polished with Ax Wax, sometimes worked wonders on solid body guitars. On acoustics, sanding dust with lacquer was the better choice.)
Great info Gordon, thanks for sharing your knowledge. Im curious about how you dress those small pieces of wood you are using for graft material. Obviously not with a jointer.
Hi Phil, to make a sliver I use hot melt glue to secure a donor tote to a sled. Tip the blade or taper the fence to get a wedge of rosewood. The other thing I do use a skew block plane like a cheese grater and put a donor tote in the vise. Take a pass (to create a sliver) and then rotate the plane slightly to cut another. Think “taco cheese”….. because the shaving actually curl a bit, they make great arcuate strips that can be used to compliment the grain on the side or face of a tote. And lastly… I have significant collection of carving tools so I can V-carve right out of a donor and glue it into place. Hope this helps. (And you’re correct, I’ve never run rosewood across a jointer)
@@gordonaddison307 Thanks for the reply. I was thinking more about the small blocks you glue on, as in this video. Do you dress them for gluing by the same method (i.e., glue to a piece of plywood and run through the table saw)? Thanks. Cool repair.
@@philellis6102 yes! (Sorry bout that) I glue them to a scrap plywood “sled” and the take a super light pass. If it doesn’t clean up I bump the fence and go again. Worth mentioning, most of the time I keep the same blade installed for exotics so there’s no pitch or other gummy stuff. A clean sharp blade is always preferred.
Gordon, after gluing an upper horn repair block on, thinking of using a Forstner bit to initially establish the upper concave curve tote radiuses, e.g. 1-1/4" diameter? Have you ever done this or if not, how do you initially establish radiuses? Also do you recommend using a Forstner bit / drill press to make the upper screw / bolt radius relief, e.g. 7/16" diameter? Saw where you opened up the screw rod hole using a Dremel bit(?), but wondering if using a Forstner bit would be easier, or maybe it's risking tear out and not a good idea. Thanks for you expertise and help.
So, a big negatory to the forstner bit. Why? Because I’ve snagged, chipped, or ripped out. 😡 I’ve tried to “sneak up” on it and I’ve tried to spin backwards to cut fibers. Of course, you can give it a shot and if it works, great. I use Iwasaki rasps to cut my initial shape. They are made up tiny plane blades, not a traditional rasp point. This allows complete control and I can always position my work in such a way that I done rasp against the grain. These rasps cut soooo clean and fast, once you give this a try you realize how different (and easy) shaping can be. Traditional files are for detailing and would take forever. As for the counterbore… I do have a new bit that I like. I’ll post a video when I get home. Hope this helps!
@@SW-jo7vy th-cam.com/video/8fCuLLyOqFA/w-d-xo.html It’s a horrible video because it lacks any technical value/specs, and it really doesn’t provide a close up view of the “teeth”. These rasps are a good value, especially when compared to hand-stitched rasps that run $130+
long answer :) I use TiteBond most of the time, especially when I have a tight, clean break. As you've heard it said, the bond is stronger than the wood. If it's necessary to further disguise the joint I will V carve a groove and graft donor rosewood into the joint. This disguises the seam and TB is easily workable. My second choice is cyanoacrylate (super glue) and I use it for non-structural repairs such as grafts or chips. The neat thing here is that I can spray it with accelerator and keep right on working. It's tintable too. Third would be 2-part epoxy. I use slow and fast cure. If you've seen me bury carbon fiber rods you know I want to encase the rods. I don't use TB for filler so epoxy is the way to go. It too can be colored but it's a bitch to work with if you get it on the face of the tote. Last is polyurethane. I do use it when I need a strong bond and some expansion. Great for painted totes.
I’ve watched his videos and he’s very talented. With his skill, an awesome bench vise and perfectly tuned hand planes it’s wonderful to watch. A table saw fixture (in my opinion) is more likely to produce a truly flat surface for those that are not at “Sellers skill level”. I appreciate your comment!
Very nice work son but may I make a suggestion. Your viewers are mostly smart people and don't have to have their hand held as you take them through your procedures. You could have gotten your expertise across in less than half the time you spent here. I almost left after 10 minutes and we were nowhere near into the fix. Keep yourself and especially your viewers time in mind when your showing your work and abilities. At any rate thank you for your time.
This is great feedback and I appreciate you taking time to write. This topic is one I have experimented with a bit…. Some people like a quick and “to the point” video, while others have asked for “all the details” and film “everything you’re doing”. I’ve tried both but statistics are showing that people click off at 5 mins or less. I hear ya….. and thank you again for your comment.
Oh and one more thing…. Looking at the video you’re watching I see that it’s about two years old. I would like to think I’ve gotten better since then. In other words, I hope you’ll stick around and check out a few of my newer videos and let me know what you think. Again, I appreciate your observation and feedback. 👍
@@gordonaddison307 ....I will stick around now because of your remarks above. It shows your head is screwed on right and that you are open to listening to people around you. This carries a lot of maturity and respect for other's ideas and suggestions. I will say I did not check the date on this video and apologize for that as I should have looked. I'm old and don't think of things like I used to. I really appreciate your response. I'll try to remember to do that especially if I'm going to give my two cents worth. Have a nice day and thank you again young fella. 👍👍👍
@@robertlangley258 you’re a good man. I think you and I are going to get along fine. And I’m counting on you to provide good feedback (good or bad that is) on my newer stuff. 😊
Great video! Very informative and helpful. Do you ever use Titebond I or Titebond III to glue the parts together or are there things with these two that make them unsuited for this?
Great question and I should probably further into this. Here’s my initial response; I’ve always used TB1 with great results for fine furniture and many other projects. When it came to plane totes and sweaty hands, slightly varied climate changes.... I felt it was wise to use a “water resistant” interior/exterior adhesive. With TB3 being a “waterproof” interior/exterior, I just didn’t graduate up. I’m sure they’re both excellent and great for what we’re doing. You’ve inspired me to reach out to TB. 👍
I have a no. 6 tote, and need the Horn replaced like in the video. How do I contact you about pricing? The break looks just like the one in this video.
…… maaaaaybee Honestly, my videos are ALOT of cut and paste and sometimes they take an hour or two to put together. I need to find a way to make videos easier. But thank you for being acutely aware, I do take safety seriously and have picked up a few fingers in my lifetime. (Not mine… I have all my parts)
Ha! There are a lot of great machines out there. Did you buy a a Homag? Biesse? Or maybe a Greda? Lots of reasons… you’re interested in producing consistently accurate high quality components. That’s probably the first reason. Second, in todays competitive manufacturing market it increasingly more difficult to find skilled workers. That’s the second. (Maybe not in that order) and I can list a few more. 😊. Seriously, what did you buy?
The sled idea is freaking brilliant. It’s like using a fixture for machining metal and makes SO MUCH sense!
I always learn something from you; thank you.
-Castor
Thank you for the comment! to keep em’ coming.
Your skills. With the patience that you maliciously exercise is an art in itself. No wonder your peices come out so beautifully done. You are an artist. Stellar.
This is the most poetic comment I’ve received. And I love it. Thank you for starting my day off right. ❤️
@@gordonaddison307
Thank you for taking the time to video your work. Camera angles that capture exactly what you are doing. Recording. Editing. And then there's your work! I've watched other skilled people repair restore and refurbish. They do great work too. But nothing on the level that you show and teach. So thank you for taking the time. And caring for the details that make a difference. I wonder what you did in early life that instilled such discipline.
Great video thank you. I've got a weird break to repair.
I'll think about how you've done yours and I'll film mine and put a video out too, as it's quite different.
Cheers
Jamie
This is excellent. I have to do this soon and will use your technique. Thank you so much for taking the time to shoot this. First rate.
You’re very welcome and thank you for taking time to watch. 👍
I really enjoyed you approach. Every day tools and a patient approach. File work is key. Thank you I may repair my grandfather plane totes. I felt reassured by the technique you used
Thank You Gordon
Thank you for the kind words and you are very welcome sir. My wife would tell you that I’m often “too” patient. 🤪 But yes, file work is so very important.
Totally agree....I tried it & got a very satisfying result. Thanks a lot.
Excellent! Well considered and well explained and a repair I would be proud of.
Thank you Chris. And thank you for taking the time to watch.👍
Great video and job well done. I completely agree with using files. I use them all the time when making axe handles to get the final shape. I just picked up a Siegley and as soon as I get a chance i will try my hand at repairing the tote.
Hi, is your plane a Siegley or a Sedgley?
Lovely job. Now I just have to cut off my previous attempt. Really do appreciate it.
Thank you Perry. Hope these are helpful and your next attempt goes well. 👍
Break looks almost exactly like my No. 8 tote. This will be a big help!
Just “discovered” your work and your videos. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience. Most Appreciated!
Thank you Rick! Great to hear from you and thank you for following along 👍
Great! really enjoyed it, thanks. I am much looking forward to the promised wood finish video :)
As for all your videos, very informative and inspirational 👍🏻.
One little tip from a user plane restorer and fettler, for the part of boring the hole for the bolt and nut through the «new» wood at the top of the rear handle/tote or the knob:
I find that boring from the bottom of the handle with a 1/4 inch or 6 mm brad point bit until the brad point reveals the center spot of the new hole. Then I use a 3-12mm step bit to bore from the top of the tote/knob using the brad mark as the center of the hole. After 12 repaired totes and 2 knobs this way I can say that this way has saved me hours of filing, sanding, head scratching and frustration compared to the knife/gouge/dremel way.
The cheap 3-12mm (I am certain there is an imperial counterpart to this metric step bit) I use leaves a very crisp and fuzzy free edge and the fit for the nut is just about as perfect as you would want. 👍🏻👌🏼
Thank you for sharing and I have done something very similar to what you explained. The critical part of course is to stop when you see the brad point. Pushing on thru (intentionally or otherwise) will surely blow out. (Been there, done that 😡) I’ll have to give your method a try…. I do like the idea of not running a dremel freehand.
Nice work! lots of guitar repair folks use CA on rosewood with good results. I had thought about a couple of tiny dowells to reinforce since it is a small gluing area but I couldn't think of a way to make it 100% invisible. I was surprised that we did not see you, in the process of selecting the patch, to put some finish on to get a better idea of the actual color match. I think the color match is the one thing that could have come out better.
Very good points Jerry. The video is two years old and I have since done more than 100 horns so I’ve come along way since then. 👍
@@gordonaddison307, "Oops" is not our favorite word, but mistakes (large or small) are nature's stepping-stones to knowledge. (Jerry's right, as the Guitar Doctor for Stars Guitars in San Francisco in the late '70's-early '80's, sanding dust [from the right species, of course] and super glue, leveled and flattened with 400 wet or dry with lemon oil and then polished with Miguires(sp) green auto body rubbing compound and finally polished with Ax Wax, sometimes worked wonders on solid body guitars. On acoustics, sanding dust with lacquer was the better choice.)
Thx for posting, very nice tutorial👍
Thanks for watching Ton 👍
Amazing work! Thanks for teaching us.
Great video!
Thank you Tony. I appreciate the comment. 👍
Beautiful work. ❤
Thank you sir👍
This was very helpful. I need to work on my patience!
Thank you William. Being too patient can sometimes be my weakness 🤣
Another well informed video, Thank You!
Thanks for a great video on tote repair
You’re welcome Mike. More to come!
Beautiful work! 👍
Thank you. Recently I repaired a Stanley 6C Type 6 tote. Broke in a parcel on the way to Belarus from California. It broken at the base. .
Great info Gordon, thanks for sharing your knowledge. Im curious about how you dress those small pieces of wood you are using for graft material. Obviously not with a jointer.
Hi Phil, to make a sliver I use hot melt glue to secure a donor tote to a sled. Tip the blade or taper the fence to get a wedge of rosewood. The other thing I do use a skew block plane like a cheese grater and put a donor tote in the vise. Take a pass (to create a sliver) and then rotate the plane slightly to cut another. Think “taco cheese”….. because the shaving actually curl a bit, they make great arcuate strips that can be used to compliment the grain on the side or face of a tote. And lastly… I have significant collection of carving tools so I can V-carve right out of a donor and glue it into place. Hope this helps. (And you’re correct, I’ve never run rosewood across a jointer)
@@gordonaddison307 Thanks for the reply. I was thinking more about the small blocks you glue on, as in this video. Do you dress them for gluing by the same method (i.e., glue to a piece of plywood and run through the table saw)? Thanks. Cool repair.
@@philellis6102 yes! (Sorry bout that) I glue them to a scrap plywood “sled” and the take a super light pass. If it doesn’t clean up I bump the fence and go again. Worth mentioning, most of the time I keep the same blade installed for exotics so there’s no pitch or other gummy stuff. A clean sharp blade is always preferred.
Great information. Thanks for sharing.
You’re welcome Yang. Thanks for watching.
Gordon, after gluing an upper horn repair block on, thinking of using a Forstner bit to initially establish the upper concave curve tote radiuses, e.g. 1-1/4" diameter? Have you ever done this or if not, how do you initially establish radiuses? Also do you recommend using a Forstner bit / drill press to make the upper screw / bolt radius relief, e.g. 7/16" diameter? Saw where you opened up the screw rod hole using a Dremel bit(?), but wondering if using a Forstner bit would be easier, or maybe it's risking tear out and not a good idea. Thanks for you expertise and help.
So, a big negatory to the forstner bit. Why? Because I’ve snagged, chipped, or ripped out. 😡 I’ve tried to “sneak up” on it and I’ve tried to spin backwards to cut fibers. Of course, you can give it a shot and if it works, great. I use Iwasaki rasps to cut my initial shape. They are made up tiny plane blades, not a traditional rasp point. This allows complete control and I can always position my work in such a way that I done rasp against the grain. These rasps cut soooo clean and fast, once you give this a try you realize how different (and easy) shaping can be. Traditional files are for detailing and would take forever. As for the counterbore… I do have a new bit that I like. I’ll post a video when I get home. Hope this helps!
@@gordonaddison307 Thanks for your Xmas gift response! Still looking forward to your "shaping tools you use" review vid. Happy New Year!
@@SW-jo7vy I’ve reached out to Woodcraft and offered to redo their Iwasaki video. I’ll go ahead and post mine… it’s already scripted. 👍
@@gordonaddison307 Sorry, "Scriped "? Where is this assumed link located for Iwasaki rasp / file?
@@SW-jo7vy th-cam.com/video/8fCuLLyOqFA/w-d-xo.html
It’s a horrible video because it lacks any technical value/specs, and it really doesn’t provide a close up view of the “teeth”. These rasps are a good value, especially when compared to hand-stitched rasps that run $130+
Awesome stuff
What are the other glues you use and in what circumstance do you chose one over the other? Thank you.
long answer :) I use TiteBond most of the time, especially when I have a tight, clean break. As you've heard it said, the bond is stronger than the wood. If it's necessary to further disguise the joint I will V carve a groove and graft donor rosewood into the joint. This disguises the seam and TB is easily workable. My second choice is cyanoacrylate (super glue) and I use it for non-structural repairs such as grafts or chips. The neat thing here is that I can spray it with accelerator and keep right on working. It's tintable too. Third would be 2-part epoxy. I use slow and fast cure. If you've seen me bury carbon fiber rods you know I want to encase the rods. I don't use TB for filler so epoxy is the way to go. It too can be colored but it's a bitch to work with if you get it on the face of the tote. Last is polyurethane. I do use it when I need a strong bond and some expansion. Great for painted totes.
Paul Sellers just planes the tote flat, glues on a piece of wood, and then shapes the repair.
I’ve watched his videos and he’s very talented. With his skill, an awesome bench vise and perfectly tuned hand planes it’s wonderful to watch. A table saw fixture (in my opinion) is more likely to produce a truly flat surface for those that are not at “Sellers skill level”. I appreciate your comment!
If you have a table saw this is unquestionably a more accurate technique. There is insufficient surface area to register a plane accurately.
Very nice work son but may I make a suggestion. Your viewers are mostly smart people and don't have to have their hand held as you take them through your procedures. You could have gotten your expertise across in less than half the time you spent here. I almost left after 10 minutes and we were nowhere near into the fix. Keep yourself and especially your viewers time in mind when your showing your work and abilities. At any rate thank you for your time.
This is great feedback and I appreciate you taking time to write. This topic is one I have experimented with a bit…. Some people like a quick and “to the point” video, while others have asked for “all the details” and film “everything you’re doing”. I’ve tried both but statistics are showing that people click off at 5 mins or less. I hear ya….. and thank you again for your comment.
Oh and one more thing…. Looking at the video you’re watching I see that it’s about two years old. I would like to think I’ve gotten better since then. In other words, I hope you’ll stick around and check out a few of my newer videos and let me know what you think. Again, I appreciate your observation and feedback. 👍
@@gordonaddison307 ....I will stick around now because of your remarks above. It shows your head is screwed on right and that you are open to listening to people around you. This carries a lot of maturity and respect for other's ideas and suggestions. I will say I did not check the date on this video and apologize for that as I should have looked. I'm old and don't think of things like I used to. I really appreciate your response. I'll try to remember to do that especially if I'm going to give my two cents worth. Have a nice day and thank you again young fella. 👍👍👍
@@robertlangley258 you’re a good man. I think you and I are going to get along fine. And I’m counting on you to provide good feedback (good or bad that is) on my newer stuff. 😊
Very well done, Gordon. I like the detailed explanation, coming from one who is faced with almost exactly the same repair. Good, detailed camera work!
Great video! Very informative and helpful.
Do you ever use Titebond I or Titebond III to glue the parts together or are there things with these two that make them unsuited for this?
Great question and I should probably further into this. Here’s my initial response; I’ve always used TB1 with great results for fine furniture and many other projects. When it came to plane totes and sweaty hands, slightly varied climate changes.... I felt it was wise to use a “water resistant” interior/exterior adhesive. With TB3 being a “waterproof” interior/exterior, I just didn’t graduate up. I’m sure they’re both excellent and great for what we’re doing. You’ve inspired me to reach out to TB. 👍
Let us know what you find because I only use titebond lll, I find no ll too runny
I have a no. 6 tote, and need the Horn replaced like in the video. How do I contact you about pricing? The break looks just like the one in this video.
You can reach me at lovesa45@gmail.com 👍
6:17 someone is being sneaky! The screw positions for the 0 clearance inserts did not change so someone is used a saw without a guard or riving knife!
…… maaaaaybee Honestly, my videos are ALOT of cut and paste and sometimes they take an hour or two to put together. I need to find a way to make videos easier. But thank you for being acutely aware, I do take safety seriously and have picked up a few fingers in my lifetime. (Not mine… I have all my parts)
So why the hell did I just buy a $169,995 CNC Machine!?
Ha! There are a lot of great machines out there. Did you buy a a Homag? Biesse? Or maybe a Greda? Lots of reasons… you’re interested in producing consistently accurate high quality components. That’s probably the first reason. Second, in todays competitive manufacturing market it increasingly more difficult to find skilled workers. That’s the second. (Maybe not in that order) and I can list a few more. 😊. Seriously, what did you buy?
Because you don’t have a maker’s space with CNCs that you can join,… maybe. Gordon has a better answer.