Appreciate your comments. Next one will be in about a week when the next parts order arrives. Working on this stuff is like a home improvement project; no matter how careful you are, it's going to require multiple trips to the big box hardware store of your choice. 😩
Whether to do the recap first or not kind of depends on the problem. If you can narrow the problem down a bit, for instance the FM doesn't pick up signal, you can recap everything and it may or may not fix the FM problem (probably not), but you won't be creating new problems without knowledge of where you created it.
Agreed, that's why if you're recapping you should test after each section. If the FM doesn't pick up signal, you can inject a signal into the IF with a substitute tuner.to determine if it's the front end or IF. I did this in of the Marantz repair videos: th-cam.com/video/oWuJJ72scnk/w-d-xo.html
@@raygianelli3612 I just had to do that with my 9090db, which is why that example came to mind. I still haven't figured out the problem, but I get no signal at tp1. I found the 2sc1045 was bad in the front end, replaced it with a ksp10, but still no signal. I imagine there is a bad passive in there causing trouble, so that's where I'm checking tomorrow. Anyway, good job on the videos. Thanks for them.
@@raygianelli3612 , I am 65 and I've been working with audio electronics and repairing audio equipment almost my entire life comment and I only found out about the JIS screws 3 or 4 years ago.
A Scotch Bright pad makes a nice alternative to steel wool for cleaning metal prior to soldering, and the scotch brght pad will not shed conductive fibers like steel wool does.
Whenever you recap a driver circuit you should always replace the feedback capacitor in the differential amplifier with a *nonpolar* (bipolar) electrolytic cap. In theory you could use a non-electrolytic film capacitor but it's usually almost impossible to get one that is physically small enough to fit yet meets the required capacitance and voltage ratings.
Roro, I picked up both the cordless screwdriver and the JIS screwdrivers on Amazon. The cordless is a Hitachi; I liked it so much that when I was in the market for a cordless drill I got a Hitachi, and it's truly excellent. The screwdrivers are made by Vessel.
Any opinion on the Wurth Electronik caps? I was recently scrutinized for using them yet I’ve never had any issue from using them nor have any ever tested bad. My theory has always been that as long as Mouser carries it, it’s decent.
Ray, I swear I almost asked about JIS on one of your prior videos and I believe your the first one I've seen mention it. A few years ago I learned of JIS because nothing else worked. I've noticed at times I dont get a good bite and may dig the screw head. Do you think maybe we've been doing it wrong the whole time and should mainly be using JIS screwdrivers for these Japanese units? Thanks!
Victor, I read about them on an audio forum a few years ago. I recently read an article about Phillips, JIS and Pozidriv. The article said that JIS works better for Phillips head screws than Phillips.
@@raygianelli3612 Ray I went down this rabbit hole. I have the same screwdriver you do I had needed for a Panasonic Boombox so I checked a few of my units - Pioneer, Sansui, Onkyo, Rotel all had JIS screws. I would notice the Phillips issues mostly when it would mar my black cover screws but never put 2 and 2 together til you mentioned it. Keep spreading the word and break the Internet. Thank you!
Great to see you again! Waiting for the next! Thank you!
Appreciate your comments. Next one will be in about a week when the next parts order arrives. Working on this stuff is like a home improvement project; no matter how careful you are, it's going to require multiple trips to the big box hardware store of your choice. 😩
Whether to do the recap first or not kind of depends on the problem. If you can narrow the problem down a bit, for instance the FM doesn't pick up signal, you can recap everything and it may or may not fix the FM problem (probably not), but you won't be creating new problems without knowledge of where you created it.
Agreed, that's why if you're recapping you should test after each section.
If the FM doesn't pick up signal, you can inject a signal into the IF with a substitute tuner.to determine if it's the front end or IF. I did this in of the Marantz repair videos:
th-cam.com/video/oWuJJ72scnk/w-d-xo.html
@@raygianelli3612 I just had to do that with my 9090db, which is why that example came to mind. I still haven't figured out the problem, but I get no signal at tp1. I found the 2sc1045 was bad in the front end, replaced it with a ksp10, but still no signal. I imagine there is a bad passive in there causing trouble, so that's where I'm checking tomorrow.
Anyway, good job on the videos. Thanks for them.
Wow, a lot of maintenance work. Thanks
Sure is! I must confess I don't really like doing restoration work. Since this is just a hobby, I prefer doing troubleshooting and repair work.
Great, informative video! Special thanks for the JIS screw info.... which explains quite a few I've messed up in the past 😂
Rob, I wasn't kidding when I said I'd recently learned this myself... and I'm in my late 60's!
@@raygianelli3612 , I am 65 and I've been working with audio electronics and repairing audio equipment almost my entire life comment and I only found out about the JIS screws 3 or 4 years ago.
A Scotch Bright pad makes a nice alternative to steel wool for cleaning metal prior to soldering, and the scotch brght pad will not shed conductive fibers like steel wool does.
Whenever you recap a driver circuit you should always replace the feedback capacitor in the differential amplifier with a *nonpolar* (bipolar) electrolytic cap. In theory you could use a non-electrolytic film capacitor but it's usually almost impossible to get one that is physically small enough to fit yet meets the required capacitance and voltage ratings.
hey Ray, nice retoration ! Where did you find your special handy screwdriver ?
Roro, I picked up both the cordless screwdriver and the JIS screwdrivers on Amazon. The cordless is a Hitachi; I liked it so much that when I was in the market for a cordless drill I got a Hitachi, and it's truly excellent. The screwdrivers are made by Vessel.
@@raygianelli3612 And what about the small ratcheting screwdriver ?
@@roroseppel2077 I can't remember where I got it, but chances are good it was either Amazon or Harbor Freight Tools.
Any opinion on the Wurth Electronik caps? I was recently scrutinized for using them yet I’ve never had any issue from using them nor have any ever tested bad. My theory has always been that as long as Mouser carries it, it’s decent.
Mike, I've used them as well with no issues. Ask me again in about 30-40 years and we'll see how they hold up. 🤭
what is normal restoration cost for a 9090db?
That can vary depending on the degree of restoration. This company has a price list for Sansui work. No affiliation:
www.qrxrestore.com/services/
Ray, I swear I almost asked about JIS on one of your prior videos and I believe your the first one I've seen mention it. A few years ago I learned of JIS because nothing else worked. I've noticed at times I dont get a good bite and may dig the screw head. Do you think maybe we've been doing it wrong the whole time and should mainly be using JIS screwdrivers for these Japanese units? Thanks!
Victor, I read about them on an audio forum a few years ago. I recently read an article about Phillips, JIS and Pozidriv. The article said that JIS works better for Phillips head screws than Phillips.
@@raygianelli3612 Ray I went down this rabbit hole. I have the same screwdriver you do I had needed for a Panasonic Boombox so I checked a few of my units - Pioneer, Sansui, Onkyo, Rotel all had JIS screws. I would notice the Phillips issues mostly when it would mar my black cover screws but never put 2 and 2 together til you mentioned it. Keep spreading the word and break the Internet. Thank you!