Getting a jigsaw for free for my Shopsmith. The guy is moving and it’s an accessory he doesn’t need or want so he’s giving it to me. I’m the only other Shopsmith owner he knows….so, really glad you made this video!
When I got my Mark V Greenie I had to wait for some parts to come from the people who gave it to me. The parts came and I found some parts to other accessories for the machine. I hope when(if ever, thank you covid) they find those accessories this one is among them because this is the coolest secondary use I have ever seen!
Very very interesting Scott. Who would have thought! Now everyone is going to be looking for one of these attachments. Such good information. Thank you again!
Well, that was a looooong tease. Thanks Scott for the informative videos as always. Don't own a Shopsmith jigsaw myself. The ability to use files in it is nice, but still not a compelling reason for me to own one. Appreciate you taking the time to go through and share all that it can do though.
So now that I'm not spoiling anything, the reason I plan to get the Jig Saw over the Scroll Saw (assuming I have room for only one or the other), is the combo of being able to remove the upper arm and the use of sanding blocks. To my thinking, if I'm doing simple scroll work I would attempt on the Band Saw first since that is the tool I own. Only if I need a finer/tighter cut or am doing pierced cuts would the jig or scroll saw be a necessary addition. If I am doing very tight scroll work or pierced work, then it would be really nice to have a way to mechanically sand those interior areas. From the older version of PTWFE - "Sanding sticks of this type may be made by fitting a wooden block on a 1/4" bolt, to be gripped in the lower chuck like a file. The sandpaper is cemented to the wooden block." Seems very flexible. You could make multiples of the shape you needed for a given workpiece with a range of grits to shape and smooth the cuts.
Yep, you are exactly right. I would’ve shown all of this tonight if only the Amazon truck hadn’t arrived just as I was leaving the shop. Oh well, that’s what Stumped is for.
@@MyGrowthRings Remember the phrase "Allow six to eight weeks for delivery?" Now when our Amazon tacker says "Out for delivery. Arrives today by 9:00 PM" the freak out begins at 11 AM. I think I heard a truck, was that the Amazon driver?
@@MyGrowthRings I recall in Petersburg, Alaska during the early ‘60’s. Freight came by The Alaska Steamship Company or Coastal then Coastal Ellis - the planes were WW11 Grumman Goose or PBY two great amphibious aircraft. It took 2weeks by boat, varied from never to days to weeks by air. God help us if it was the wrong part or wrong merchandise. It might have been dropped off somewhere else - The jet flew north (S.E. Alaska) as far as Annette Island a ways outside of Ketchikan. From there it was Grumman Goose or PBY then handed off to a local amphibious airline company usually flying Cessna 180 or 185 pontoon airplanes. The long awaited merchandise would leave town headed for some fishing boat, some other town, some logging camp somewhere.
I may have! Yes, it is 250 ans yes, a die filer being used for metal would normally operate in the 250-550 strokes per minute range. The PowerPro is ideal.
Thanks for this! After the last video, i set mine up as a die filer and it worked pretty well. I was able to use an upside down chainsaw file successfully, but it flexes a lot because its not as rigid as you'd want. Not sure what I'd use for a flat file, maybe a needle file? I looked at the falcon tool link and i am not prepared to pay $200 for die files, oof. With respect to the speed, I was thinking about just making an adapter for a hand drill.
many chainsaw files will have a section at each end with no teeth so if you get some of those you dont even need to sand any teeth off. I'd very much recommend cutting the file down to a reasonable length because the big 12" file will really whip around a lot.
Presumably the files are Swiss pattern because they were developed for the intricate requirements of the Swiss watch industry in the Jura Mountains. As an aside, that industry (and the jewellery industry) originally developed because Jura farmers were hunkered down with their animals over the cold winter months (the animals were kept below the first floor living quarters as a source of heat) and there wasn’t much else to do.
Here’s a link to a typical old Jura farmhouse www.ballenberg.ch/en/themes/house-styles/1-jura/111. A watchmaking farmhouse would likely be more recently built and have a lot more windows to let in the light.
@@jongrace9133 it varies with condition and whether it’s on its own stand or not, but they’re very reasonable. You could pick one up in the $25-$75 range every day on craigslist or Facebook marketplace.
It's Me again... Great topic and yeah, worth waiting for. Just commenting cause it's a habit at this point in time, but seriously, cove cutting made easy on the shopsmith. Gonna start that this week for the bed (Hopefully) and really would love to know if there are any tricks.
It's still going to be a while because my molder head is in storage. I cut them with the molder head fitted with a 1" flute cutter, and as most people do I run a sacrificial wooden fence diagonally address the blade. One tip is to make sure that you take multiple, shallow passes. I've done it with the "fence" covering the front side and other times with it covering the backside, and frankly I could argue both ways. Let me see if I can find you a picture. Scott
Well, I don't have the attachment and am using what I've got. I know it can be done with a well thought out and careful planning. Every tablesaw is essentially the same... they all have their unique "tricks" to doing this type of cut as long as you stick with the basics. With the shopsmith, though, you have variable speed etc. Plan is for 3 or 4 passes trying to develop a good 3" bevel about 1/2 inch deep, leaving room for a bead trim up top... I was just hoping, but wife gets back at the beginning of the month and would love to have this mostly done by then. You keep up the good work and sharing information, I'll let you know how it turns out. -josh
@@Me58651 Also, I can't express enough the importance of using a stop collar on the table tube. The will be a ton of downward pressure on the table lock and they have been known to slip, so drop a collar down onto the carriage from above to eliminate that possibility. Scott
But wait a minute … the teeth are so small a close together that I seriously doubt the lifting would be a problem-definitely less than when sawing thin wood parts. Hmm … I think I can take the snarky championship on Wednesday! 🤣 Gotta dig out that speed reducer … geeze, and I've never realized how lucky I am!
Hey Scott! Once upon a time on the Shopsmith owners forum it was recommended to use the files that came with the Harbor Freight pneumatic air file (which now looks to be on its way out). Had great luck using these files www.harborfreight.com/air-file-1704.html
Yes, I checked with three local HFs a few weeks back to see if I could pick one up, but they were all gone. I'm curious to know which way they cut. It would make sense that they cut on the push stroke, which wouldn't work well with the SS Jigsaw. Do you have a set? Scott
Getting a jigsaw for free for my Shopsmith. The guy is moving and it’s an accessory he doesn’t need or want so he’s giving it to me. I’m the only other Shopsmith owner he knows….so, really glad you made this video!
Wow, free is a great price!
Great camera angle. Oh ya, as always, the content is great as well.
Much appreciated! Scott
When I got my Mark V Greenie I had to wait for some parts to come from the people who gave it to me. The parts came and I found some parts to other accessories for the machine. I hope when(if ever, thank you covid) they find those accessories this one is among them because this is the coolest secondary use I have ever seen!
Keep you fingers crossed.
@@MyGrowthRings Thanks. By the way shoot me an email. I found something when I recorded my podcast last month that I think you may have answers for.
@@thebeggarswoodshop8756 How do I send you an email? You can send me one at ScottMarkwood(at)gmail(dot)com
Scott, decades ago, needing to saw a lot unistrut I rigged a 2 pulley system that dropped the Mk5 speed nicely down into metal band saw speed.
Excellent. It was covered in an old Popular Science Magazine article and it’s really a great idea. Scott
Holy schmoley. What an interesting tool/gotta have.
A very interesting, well done video. Very good.👍👍
Thanks, John. I think so too. Scott
Very very interesting Scott. Who would have thought! Now everyone is going to be looking for one of these attachments. Such good information. Thank you again!
Could be. At least a new chunk of people will be. Thanks Anne. Scott
Thanks for the great video Scott 👍 It's pretty amazing how versatile that Shopsmith jigsaw is.
Thanks, Mark.
Well, that was a looooong tease. Thanks Scott for the informative videos as always. Don't own a Shopsmith jigsaw myself. The ability to use files in it is nice, but still not a compelling reason for me to own one. Appreciate you taking the time to go through and share all that it can do though.
More for others, I suppose, Scott
@@MyGrowthRings I still enjoyed learning about this tool from you. By the way, Happy Father's Day!
So now that I'm not spoiling anything, the reason I plan to get the Jig Saw over the Scroll Saw (assuming I have room for only one or the other), is the combo of being able to remove the upper arm and the use of sanding blocks. To my thinking, if I'm doing simple scroll work I would attempt on the Band Saw first since that is the tool I own. Only if I need a finer/tighter cut or am doing pierced cuts would the jig or scroll saw be a necessary addition.
If I am doing very tight scroll work or pierced work, then it would be really nice to have a way to mechanically sand those interior areas. From the older version of PTWFE - "Sanding sticks of this type may be made by fitting a wooden block on a 1/4" bolt, to be gripped in the lower chuck like a file. The sandpaper is cemented to the wooden block."
Seems very flexible. You could make multiples of the shape you needed for a given workpiece with a range of grits to shape and smooth the cuts.
Yep, you are exactly right. I would’ve shown all of this tonight if only the Amazon truck hadn’t arrived just as I was leaving the shop. Oh well, that’s what Stumped is for.
@@MyGrowthRings Remember the phrase "Allow six to eight weeks for delivery?" Now when our Amazon tacker says "Out for delivery. Arrives today by 9:00 PM" the freak out begins at 11 AM. I think I heard a truck, was that the Amazon driver?
@@woodshopnerdery Ain’t that the truth? I remember when Prime used to mean two day shipping. Those were the days.
@@MyGrowthRings I recall in Petersburg, Alaska during the early ‘60’s. Freight came by The Alaska Steamship Company or Coastal then Coastal Ellis - the planes were WW11 Grumman Goose or PBY two great amphibious aircraft. It took 2weeks by boat, varied from never to days to weeks by air. God help us if it was the wrong part or wrong merchandise. It might have been dropped off somewhere else -
The jet flew north (S.E. Alaska) as far as Annette Island a ways outside of Ketchikan. From there it was Grumman Goose or PBY then handed off to a local amphibious airline company usually flying Cessna 180 or 185 pontoon airplanes. The long awaited merchandise would leave town headed for some fishing boat, some other town, some logging camp somewhere.
Incredible. Thanks for sharing, John. Scott
Scott, did the cove cite today, could be better, would love to show you... I got pics!
Awesome. Email me at ScottMarkwood(at)gmail(dont)com
Great set of videos, gotta start looking for one!
Good luck. Keep an eye on Craigslist and eBay.
You may have misspoken when you said the Power Pro low end speed was 100 rpm; I believe it is 250. Is that slow enough? Thanks, Glen
I may have! Yes, it is 250 ans yes, a die filer being used for metal would normally operate in the 250-550 strokes per minute range. The PowerPro is ideal.
Thanks for this! After the last video, i set mine up as a die filer and it worked pretty well. I was able to use an upside down chainsaw file successfully, but it flexes a lot because its not as rigid as you'd want. Not sure what I'd use for a flat file, maybe a needle file? I looked at the falcon tool link and i am not prepared to pay $200 for die files, oof. With respect to the speed, I was thinking about just making an adapter for a hand drill.
many chainsaw files will have a section at each end with no teeth so if you get some of those you dont even need to sand any teeth off. I'd very much recommend cutting the file down to a reasonable length because the big 12" file will really whip around a lot.
Josh, I agree with you about the $200 investment. Did you see that you can purchase the file individually? Scott
@@joshwalker5605 And thanks for the tip about the chainsaw files. I’ll give them a closer look.
@@MyGrowthRings I actually did not see you could buy them individually, i'll have to look again, thanks for the tip
@@joshwalker5605 They still aren’t inexpensive, but at least you can spread the pain out a bit! Scott
Could you cover the basic uses of the SS
I sort of have, but spread out over many videos. Was there something in particular you were looking for? Scott
This is great stuff.
Thanks!
Presumably the files are Swiss pattern because they were developed for the intricate requirements of the Swiss watch industry in the Jura Mountains. As an aside, that industry (and the jewellery industry) originally developed because Jura farmers were hunkered down with their animals over the cold winter months (the animals were kept below the first floor living quarters as a source of heat) and there wasn’t much else to do.
Here’s a link to a typical old Jura farmhouse www.ballenberg.ch/en/themes/house-styles/1-jura/111. A watchmaking farmhouse would likely be more recently built and have a lot more windows to let in the light.
Very interesting. I’ve been in a similar old barn in the Black Forest in Germany where clockmaking was truly a cottage industry.
If one was going to try and get a jigsaw what would be a reasonable price range?
Jon
@@jongrace9133 it varies with condition and whether it’s on its own stand or not, but they’re very reasonable. You could pick one up in the $25-$75 range every day on craigslist or Facebook marketplace.
It's Me again... Great topic and yeah, worth waiting for. Just commenting cause it's a habit at this point in time, but seriously, cove cutting made easy on the shopsmith. Gonna start that this week for the bed (Hopefully) and really would love to know if there are any tricks.
It's still going to be a while because my molder head is in storage. I cut them with the molder head fitted with a 1" flute cutter, and as most people do I run a sacrificial wooden fence diagonally address the blade. One tip is to make sure that you take multiple, shallow passes. I've done it with the "fence" covering the front side and other times with it covering the backside, and frankly I could argue both ways. Let me see if I can find you a picture. Scott
I did find a video that is pretty close to what I do except, as I said, I use a molder instead of a saw blade because it gives me a cleaner cut. Scott
th-cam.com/video/M3ZhquMftTk/w-d-xo.html I forgot the link.
Well, I don't have the attachment and am using what I've got. I know it can be done with a well thought out and careful planning. Every tablesaw is essentially the same... they all have their unique "tricks" to doing this type of cut as long as you stick with the basics. With the shopsmith, though, you have variable speed etc. Plan is for 3 or 4 passes trying to develop a good 3" bevel about 1/2 inch deep, leaving room for a bead trim up top... I was just hoping, but wife gets back at the beginning of the month and would love to have this mostly done by then. You keep up the good work and sharing information, I'll let you know how it turns out. -josh
@@Me58651 Also, I can't express enough the importance of using a stop collar on the table tube. The will be a ton of downward pressure on the table lock and they have been known to slip, so drop a collar down onto the carriage from above to eliminate that possibility. Scott
“Chalking” the file with chalk or a sandstone will fill the reliefs a little bit so they won’t load up with wood nearly as quickly. Great video
Great tip. Thanks for sharing. Scott
Do you have a recommendation for which files(shape, etc.) to order for a basic starter set?
I used the half round and the triangle most, but if you are touching-up from scroll saw work the tear drop is a great choice. Scott
But wait a minute … the teeth are so small a close together that I seriously doubt the lifting would be a problem-definitely less than when sawing thin wood parts.
Hmm … I think I can take the snarky championship on Wednesday! 🤣
Gotta dig out that speed reducer … geeze, and I've never realized how lucky I am!
You’d think, but there’s plenty of friction at work. You have a speed reducer? LUCKY!
This tool has more tricks than a Magician. LOL
That’s true.
Hey Scott! Once upon a time on the Shopsmith owners forum it was recommended to use the files that came with the Harbor Freight pneumatic air file (which now looks to be on its way out). Had great luck using these files
www.harborfreight.com/air-file-1704.html
Yes, I checked with three local HFs a few weeks back to see if I could pick one up, but they were all gone. I'm curious to know which way they cut. It would make sense that they cut on the push stroke, which wouldn't work well with the SS Jigsaw. Do you have a set? Scott
@@MyGrowthRings I do although maybe not optimal the two small projects I’ve used them on seemed to work just fine