I'm literally doing this same thing next Tuesday when my dealer shows up but a retired snap-on dealer from a Facebook group told me I could use a sf 720 rebuild to make a f730 a 3/8 into a 1/2 drive 3/8 body so ill let you know how it turns out
The metal ring is to keep the gear aligned. I've had to replace the ratchet gear set on my F726 ratchet handle after 34 years of service. Keeping them lubed is the key to longevity.
Sweet ratchet spread. I completely understand tool obsession. I like the old ratchets, but I never use mine due to the low tooth count. I find low tooth ratchets annoying while wrenching. I know...#firstworldproblems Enjoying your content. Garnett lead me to you. Have a great week.
Pain the butt part is the ball and spring.I rebuild the Mac ratchets,have to hold the ball and spring down while getting the pawl in.Some of my older Snap On ratchets still have the original brass lever,some had brass levers from the factory.That brass lever is obsolete and the replacement is aluminum
I see your last ratchet you rebuilt was the F731 swival head 20 tooth? I have one similar and I'm looking for a rebuild kit. Where did you find it and do you have part number?
How do you tackle installing the new detent spring and ball bearing in the older model ratchets with the separate ball bearing? I just did a F936 like that, and it could have been designed as a BB gun, it was so efficient at firing the ball bearing right across the room.
It is very difficult. You need both hands and a very narrow flathead screwdriver. I can make a vid if you’d like. There is a tool that you can buy online. I’ll upload the part number later today.
@@MidwestToolReview Thanks for the reply. Yes, there's a special tool (SPP 744) for this job, but I'm in the UK and the Snap-On UK site doesn't seem to have any - maybe it's been discontinued? Believe it or not, I've found that a blackhead remover works well for holding the BB down in place! But you should definitely make a video - I couldn't find much on TH-cam that was helpful, and I had to come up with the blackhead remover idea myself.
@@TobyKendall-m9w Thanks for the tip. i can see a cotter pin working. These days I use a blackhead remover, which does the same kind of thing. I can't remember where I got that idea from!
Dude you have some awesome older ratchets. It really cool seeing the older stuff.
@Midwest Tool Review Really cool vintage ratchets they really tell a story of a different time in tools. Nice work and love the channel. 🔧
Thanks for sharing. Never had one apart but now I will know what to look for.
I really like that bit driver set!!!
Yup, I'd say you're a Pro Ratchet Rebuilder.
Awesome 👏 you are the man ✌️
I'm literally doing this same thing next Tuesday when my dealer shows up but a retired snap-on dealer from a Facebook group told me I could use a sf 720 rebuild to make a f730 a 3/8 into a 1/2 drive 3/8 body so ill let you know how it turns out
Please do!!!
Dose that kit come with the right face plate to change to 1/2 or did you have to order a separate face plate
Any updates?
@@SnD340 720 model rebuilds are discontinued unfortunately
The metal ring is to keep the gear aligned. I've had to replace the ratchet gear set on my F726 ratchet handle after 34 years of service. Keeping them lubed is the key to longevity.
Sweet ratchet spread. I completely understand tool obsession. I like the old ratchets, but I never use mine due to the low tooth count. I find low tooth ratchets annoying while wrenching. I know...#firstworldproblems
Enjoying your content. Garnett lead me to you. Have a great week.
Forward/reverse lever: IT'S IN THERE!!!!!
Pain the butt part is the ball and spring.I rebuild the Mac ratchets,have to hold the ball and spring down while getting the pawl in.Some of my older Snap On ratchets still have the original brass lever,some had brass levers from the factory.That brass lever is obsolete and the replacement is aluminum
Yeah prove it
@@jimdeck8670 Found out from a Snap On dealer.The Mac ratchets,have hold the ball and spring down with a small screwdriver while putting the pawl in
. I use a small cotter pin bent 90d. I put the cotter pin in a pin vice. The cotter pin eye holds the ball in place while you drop in the pawl.
Question for you,i just picked up a F730 quick release, was the QR a regular option or gear change? i counted the gear and its a 20 tooth
Thar cushioning under the ratchet is crucial. Without it you would have flattened the ratchet head. I kid I kid!
I see your last ratchet you rebuilt was the F731 swival head 20 tooth? I have one similar and I'm looking for a rebuild kit. Where did you find it and do you have part number?
I have a rebuild kit.
A nice collection of ratchets but have they all earned their keep?
How do you tackle installing the new detent spring and ball bearing in the older model ratchets with the separate ball bearing? I just did a F936 like that, and it could have been designed as a BB gun, it was so efficient at firing the ball bearing right across the room.
It is very difficult. You need both hands and a very narrow flathead screwdriver. I can make a vid if you’d like. There is a tool that you can buy online. I’ll upload the part number later today.
@@MidwestToolReview Thanks for the reply. Yes, there's a special tool (SPP 744) for this job, but I'm in the UK and the Snap-On UK site doesn't seem to have any - maybe it's been discontinued? Believe it or not, I've found that a blackhead remover works well for holding the BB down in place! But you should definitely make a video - I couldn't find much on TH-cam that was helpful, and I had to come up with the blackhead remover idea myself.
@@drengskapuse a small cotter pin. Bend the pin 90d. The pin eye holds the ball in place. Grease will stick the ball to the spring.
@@TobyKendall-m9w Thanks for the tip. i can see a cotter pin working. These days I use a blackhead remover, which does the same kind of thing. I can't remember where I got that idea from!
What model proto ratchet is that? Never saw one with a plastic handle?
Get u a spinflex i have the 1/4 and 3/8 great ratchets
nice