Great finger joint design. Wonderful explanation of how to get a precise joint fit. One technique from elsewhere... when aligning square with blade cut - insert a 1/8" thick piece of wood in the cut space... then bring square to the piece of wood. Works great.
Holy organized Batman!!! You may have been a watchmaker in your last life. I have the exact same small antique square you used inherited from my Dad 40 years ago. I've never used a caliper but I think I'll have to invest in one now. Cheers
Your finger-joint jig is a more compact version of dozens I've already seen of its type. I like it. It's the best I've seen. It gets the job done yet doesn't monopolize more space than needed on the face of the table saw.
Excellent Mr. Large. A nice even tone in your voice explaining the necessary steps that need to be made. One of the "very" few videos that have impressed me. I've been a cabinet and furniture maker for nearly a half-century and I can see the professionalism you share with your viewers. Kudos.
Watched about 4 other box joint jig videos but this one is by far the best. Not just in explanation, but some others just seemed flaw in the logic of how they made it. The adjustments and how to make them were clear, as were the measurements and precision around them, and the nice touches including the slight roundover on the pegs to make them fit easier. I just made my first one using this video today, I got lucky with the placement of the final fence alignment given your explanations. For me, I didn't want to risk drilling into my table saw (for attaching the miter bars), so I used a pin nailer and attached it that way, and then drilled screw holes and mounted screws totally off the table saw. Thanks, great video!
Perfect video! Thanks. I learned a lot making these jigs, and how imprecise some of my tools were, but now I’ve successfully made two different size jigs. Thanks a bunch!
Thank you for your time in making this video. It was very helpful and accurate. I especially liked the William Ng method of using feeler gauges to adjust the spacing. I also thought it was great that you placed details about the blade set up on the bottom of the jig.
I saw this jig on an episode of "This Old House", but the details on how to make it were minimal, and fleeting. This video is excellent! I look forward to making this jig, and using your video as a guide, as soon as I get a new table saw!
Good, simple jigs. I made a couple for different joint sizes 2-3 years ago the same way as you did. I've made a bunch of small handy to large storage boxes and a few drawers that are very nicely done. The only difference was to make the finger protector larger then use a stop on the saw table to limit sled travel to ensure my fingers stay attached to my hand. Oh and that saw table top - I also wax that 2-3 times a year too as mine is cast iron and not only does it protect it from rusting, it also makes it super slick.
A clear explanation that hits all the points. I especially like the inclusion of errors so that someone can learn what to do to remedy some possible errors correctly. The notes on the jig are a plus.
Very nice. I especially liked your use of a scrap piece cut to a point to register the location of the little box joint gage. I built my first box joint jig a couple days ago, and I was just giving the backerboard light taps with a hammer to move it back and forth a fraction. Should have watched this first. I don't think all the micrometer use is necessary if you've got some scrap on hand since you can run a couple of pieces through to check the fit. Anyway, thank you for making and posting this video. I found it very helpful.
always amazed at how complicated people make this. every video is like a 30 step process. I've seen one guy on youtube explain this in like 4 minutes and its 100% more simple than everyone else and it works perfectly.
This could be used for 5/8 joints. Bee hive boxes would require a wider/ deeper set up sled for 3/4 stock. Make as many test cuts as necessary. Very well done video.
Dude, That was incredibly detailed and explained clearly. Too many guys leave things out when they try to explain a process. Going to check out your channel and if the rest is as great I will be subscribing.
Just finished mine at 3/8". Works great. I just need a little practice on the scrap wood. Thanks Nate for making it simple. I used some wax to make my sled move smoothly.
This is a great video and I gotta try this for my next project. I wanted to understand why the finished joint has a bit of overlap on each side, and can you remove it with adjusting blade height?
Very nice job! You obviously have watched William NG's TH-cam which was excellent as well, but you thankfully streamlined the feeler gauge usage segment and reversed the blade side the spacer is on (doesn't matter left or right - mine is on left and is attached to a precision miter gauge assembly).
Great to see your advice on gapping the setting piece and use of feeler gauge to set the back board. I can’t use dado blades so wide so am limited to .104” with my blade .nice for small boxes though. I have a jig for multiple cuts with this blade instead of one cut that dies lead to inaccuracy . I suppose I need slightly smaller allowances with such a thinner blade . Will experiment
Awesome video!…I will be needing this for sure. Now, the way you created your Runners for the Sled is brand new to me. I have an Old Craftsman 10” Table Saw and I can’t find any pre-made glides for it, so I will use your method, using some Oak and BINGO!…I will have my Sled made as well..Thank You, Excellent video!
You are killing me Smalls, raise the runners in the miter slots with some dimes, put the double stick tape on the the runners, lay the sled board across the runners. The runners are now perfectly attached to the sled board, flip it over and drill and screw.
That’s what I would do also if I was going to use screws. I just used CA glue and sprayed some accelerate mixed with some wood glue, that way I did not have to worry about the right length screws. Put painters tape on the table saw to protect it from squeeze out.
. The smaller of the two pieces you end up with after every table saw rip should always be on the outside if you run the smaller section between the fence and blade its more apt to pinch/bind and really f*** you up buddy be careful
My attention to detail is not always the best. But after 8 hours, I finished my finger jig. I’ll finish my first box...a recipe box for our daughter tomorrow. While it’s not perfect, I’m liking it. Thx
Very instructive. Taping the base to the table saw was the first I’d seen this done...nice. Feeler gauge and rounded edges on the spacer are great tips. My son wants to build some guitar amplifier boxes and your video comes in the nick of time.
You must have been a machinist or tool maker at some point in your life with that level of accuracy!! Very nicely done!! Now to go make one myself!! I'll have to pull my micrometers, dial calipers, surface plate and height gages out of retirement though.😉😊
Excellent project, just completed mine and am planning on making more in different sizes. I made my sled 12x24 and my backer is 5.5 high. I used my better 2 faced tape and had a problem removing residue. Good idea with using the cut off to start the spacing, I got it in 2 tries.
Nice and clear video. As an aside, the one thing I never see in the creation of table saw sleds that are short enough so that the piece is cut before the leading edge of the sled reaches the back of the table saw surface is the inclusion of a stop piece at the back of the saw table that prevents cutting through the safety block. Depending on a feeling of additional resistance while cutting can lead to a gradual deepening of the slot and ultimately having the blade exposed behind the fence. Just a thought that might lead to a follow-on video to this one.
its a dado blade. I have a video on it. You will need to check your table saws manual to see if it will work for it. Basically the saw needs a big enough motor to cut with it and a long enough arbor to accommodate it.
Excellent tutorial on building a sled for perfect and replicable results! I usually build amplifier cabinets from Baltic Birch ply, and the blowout with my router / dovetail jig was so bad last time I knew I had to do something different. The joints were so spot-on that clamping after glue-up was a mere formality. Thanks!!!
you cut those small pieces so easily. I get nervous when I try that. Great video. I am still a beginner. I assume finger joints are a little easier than dovetails?
Going to make a couple different sizes of these. Just beginning woodworking your videos are super. I bought the Bosch 1617EVSPK includes the Plunge Base.and the Bosch RA1181 router table. I am going to order the Bosch Deluxe Router Guide RA1054. I bought all these items BECAUSE OF YOUR EXCELLENT VIDEOS. Do you have a short video on how to use the plunge router base with the Bosch 1617?
Thank you. I've made a jig following the instructions and purchased some dado blades for my table saw. The problem I'm not having is that my trailing edge tears out. I've tried slow and quick motions with the jig. I'm using an 8mm combined dado stack with two blades and a chipper blade and. 05mm spacers.
my best advice is: To avoid tearout the slot opening needs to be as close to the exact width and height of your dado stack. This is best accomplished by cutting the opening with the exact combination of dado stack you are planning to use with the sled. if the opening is larger than your cut you will have tearout on the unsupported wood.
Just got fed up with my single piece of wood and peg jig. This is just what I need to get accurate repeatable box joints thank you. I need to stop being lazy and following the easy path!
Working in thousandths with wood is a waste of time but nicely done. Im a toolmaker and I work in tenths that is take your thousandth and split it into 10. I have to constantly remind myself that its wood and you just can get that kind of precision out of it.
Sorry I didn't read your message carefully. I'm not sure where they can be purchased in Spain as some European countries have outlawed dado blades. My recommendation would be to check with a local woodworking supply store.
Good video. One question: the fingers I need to cut are wider than my dado set can cut. Ny suggestions as to how to adapt your method to handle this situation? Thanks for the video. Stu
Thats a good question of which I do not currently have an answer. Of the top of my head I suppose that a jig could be made but it would need to have some moving parts, specifically the spacer would need to move a spacer width away from the dado and back to allow a double sized cut. I would think the tolerances would have to be very small for it to make a tight fitting joint. Anyone else got anything?
Hey nathan!! I heard you did youtube. But this is the first video of yours Im seeing just now. Good to see you! :) Thats fun you work with wood! I just remember you and Brandon making goofy clips! You guys should start that up as a youtube channel! haha.
Thank you for the video. I never thought to make a sled for the jig. I just had dado slots in wood attached to the miter gauge, but the fit of my gauge was a bit sloppy which made for inconsistent fingers and dados. You gave a clear, concise explanation of the assembly and this will make my box joinery much better. Thanks again!
at 8:08 I start talking about the Height of the spacer. The height of the spacer is a 1/32 less then the height of the opening for the space in the backerboard.
Perfect tempo. Not too much gabbing and side-conversation, doesn't gloss over details. Perfect.
Thank you carey
😊😊
Great finger joint design. Wonderful explanation of how to get a precise joint fit. One technique from elsewhere... when aligning square with blade cut - insert a 1/8" thick piece of wood in the cut space... then bring square to the piece of wood. Works great.
Very nice - perfect amount of detail and you include how to correct and adjust! Thanks Nate 🙂
Holy organized Batman!!! You may have been a watchmaker in your last life. I have the exact same small antique square you used inherited from my Dad 40 years ago. I've never used a caliper but I think I'll have to invest in one now. Cheers
The most technical explanation ive seen. I bet yre in engineering. Never seen a feeler guage used in woodwork. Well done
Your finger-joint jig is a more compact version of dozens I've already seen of its type. I like it. It's the best I've seen. It gets the job done yet doesn't monopolize more space than needed on the face of the table saw.
Excellent Mr. Large. A nice even tone in your voice explaining the necessary steps that need to be made. One of the "very" few videos that have impressed me. I've been a cabinet and furniture maker for nearly a half-century and I can see the professionalism you share with your viewers. Kudos.
Thank you for the thoughtful complements.
Watched about 4 other box joint jig videos but this one is by far the best. Not just in explanation, but some others just seemed flaw in the logic of how they made it. The adjustments and how to make them were clear, as were the measurements and precision around them, and the nice touches including the slight roundover on the pegs to make them fit easier. I just made my first one using this video today, I got lucky with the placement of the final fence alignment given your explanations. For me, I didn't want to risk drilling into my table saw (for attaching the miter bars), so I used a pin nailer and attached it that way, and then drilled screw holes and mounted screws totally off the table saw. Thanks, great video!
Perfect video! Thanks. I learned a lot making these jigs, and how imprecise some of my tools were, but now I’ve successfully made two different size jigs. Thanks a bunch!
Thank you for your time in making this video. It was very helpful and accurate. I especially liked the William Ng method of using feeler gauges to adjust the spacing. I also thought it was great that you placed details about the blade set up on the bottom of the jig.
William Ng is top notch
I saw this jig on an episode of "This Old House", but the details on how to make it were minimal, and fleeting. This video is excellent! I look forward to making this jig, and using your video as a guide, as soon as I get a new table saw!
Glad it was helpful!
Good, simple jigs. I made a couple for different joint sizes 2-3 years ago the same way as you did. I've made a bunch of small handy to large storage boxes and a few drawers that are very nicely done. The only difference was to make the finger protector larger then use a stop on the saw table to limit sled travel to ensure my fingers stay attached to my hand. Oh and that saw table top - I also wax that 2-3 times a year too as mine is cast iron and not only does it protect it from rusting, it also makes it super slick.
A clear explanation that hits all the points. I especially like the inclusion of errors so that someone can learn what to do to remedy some possible errors correctly. The notes on the jig are a plus.
Thanks for this video. It helped me to figure out how to build what I need. (I like your channel.)
I've got to make one of these, a great way to do joints, Absolutely Brilliant and simple idea,.
Very nice. I especially liked your use of a scrap piece cut to a point to register the location of the little box joint gage. I built my first box joint jig a couple days ago, and I was just giving the backerboard light taps with a hammer to move it back and forth a fraction. Should have watched this first. I don't think all the micrometer use is necessary if you've got some scrap on hand since you can run a couple of pieces through to check the fit. Anyway, thank you for making and posting this video. I found it very helpful.
Great points!
i have followed this very closely and have achieved great success! Cheers to you my friend
always amazed at how complicated people make this. every video is like a 30 step process. I've seen one guy on youtube explain this in like 4 minutes and its 100% more simple than everyone else and it works perfectly.
You’re complaining that he took his time and gave detailed steps? Four minute box joint jig video? Cool story.
This could be used for 5/8 joints. Bee hive boxes would require a wider/ deeper set up sled for 3/4 stock. Make as many test cuts as necessary. Very well done video.
Very useful tutorial. Thanks. One hint: you can clamp a stop in the miter slot towards the back of the saw to prevent blowing through the guard.
glad i found this video. I found it by ordering the Dado that you have. lol anyhow, badass bro thank you
Wow!!! Is incredibly the patience you have to explain your project, I really appreciate your video, from now on you have a new subscriber
Thanks my friend
Nate Large - Woodworking DIY & More 🙏🏾
Dude, That was incredibly detailed and explained clearly. Too many guys leave things out when they try to explain a process. Going to check out your channel and if the rest is as great I will be subscribing.
Glad you liked it!
Just finished mine at 3/8". Works great. I just need a little practice on the scrap wood. Thanks Nate for making it simple. I used some wax to make my sled move smoothly.
Glad to help
This is a great video and I gotta try this for my next project. I wanted to understand why the finished joint has a bit of overlap on each side, and can you remove it with adjusting blade height?
Very nice job! You obviously have watched William NG's TH-cam which was excellent as well, but you thankfully streamlined the feeler gauge usage segment and reversed the blade side the spacer is on (doesn't matter left or right - mine is on left and is attached to a precision miter gauge assembly).
Excellent video, I love the precision with which you work. Do you have an engineering/mechanical background?
Great to see your advice on gapping the setting piece and use of feeler gauge to set the back board. I can’t use dado blades so wide so am limited to .104” with my blade .nice for small boxes though. I have a jig for multiple cuts with this blade instead of one cut that dies lead to inaccuracy . I suppose I need slightly smaller allowances with such a thinner blade . Will experiment
Awesome video!…I will be needing this for sure. Now, the way you created your Runners for the Sled is brand new to me. I have an Old Craftsman 10” Table Saw and I can’t find any pre-made glides for it, so I will use your method, using some Oak and BINGO!…I will have my Sled made as well..Thank You, Excellent video!
Thank you very much for this great video. Best regards
You are welcome!
Thanks Best and essayist Video I have seen.
Clever and clear all the way! Thanks so much!
Great job walking through this and explaining. Best I’ve seen.
You are killing me Smalls, raise the runners in the miter slots with some dimes, put the double stick tape on the the runners, lay the sled board across the runners. The runners are now perfectly attached to the sled board, flip it over and drill and screw.
Thanks for the tip
That’s what I would do also if I was going to use screws. I just used CA glue and sprayed some accelerate mixed with some wood glue, that way I did not have to worry about the right length screws. Put painters tape on the table saw to protect it from squeeze out.
Love the sandlot reference!
. The smaller of the two pieces you end up with after every table saw rip should always be on the outside if you run the smaller section between the fence and blade its more apt to pinch/bind and really f*** you up buddy be careful
Great instructional Video!…saved to my Notes Page on my iPad for later reference! 😊
Gracias x compartir sus lindas ideas desde ECUADOR te saluda
My attention to detail is not always the best. But after 8 hours, I finished my finger jig. I’ll finish my first box...a recipe box for our daughter tomorrow. While it’s not perfect, I’m liking it. Thx
Easy to listen to and and very articulate instructions.Well done.
So intresting giving An accurate fingers for a perfect the joint box, good job sir
Very instructive. Taping the base to the table saw was the first I’d seen this done...nice. Feeler gauge and rounded edges on the spacer are great tips. My son wants to build some guitar amplifier boxes and your video comes in the nick of time.
Glad it was helpful!
You must have been a machinist or tool maker at some point in your life with that level of accuracy!! Very nicely done!! Now to go make one myself!! I'll have to pull my micrometers, dial calipers, surface plate and height gages out of retirement though.😉😊
As a toolmaker I agree, felt like I was back in the shop.
Wow,can you make the runner installation any more convulsed?
I’m OCD this is perfect. Thank you!
Excellent project, just completed mine and am planning on making more in different sizes. I made my sled 12x24 and my backer is 5.5 high. I used my better 2 faced tape and had a problem removing residue. Good idea with using the cut off to start the spacing, I got it in 2 tries.
in 2 tries is quality.
very helpful now i can make my own jig thank you
Wow, that’s a nice job and I’m going to use your example. I hope I can someday repay to others.
Nice and clear video. As an aside, the one thing I never see in the creation of table saw sleds that are short enough so that the piece is cut before the leading edge of the sled reaches the back of the table saw surface is the inclusion of a stop piece at the back of the saw table that prevents cutting through the safety block. Depending on a feeling of additional resistance while cutting can lead to a gradual deepening of the slot and ultimately having the blade exposed behind the fence. Just a thought that might lead to a follow-on video to this one.
Bravo I will use this for my box joint sled.
great video. excellent presentation. silly question? how to you adjust the finger if it is to narrow?
I would make a new finger.
Hello, very instructive video! I was wondering how you can put those thick double blades on your tablesaw?
its a dado blade. I have a video on it. You will need to check your table saws manual to see if it will work for it. Basically the saw needs a big enough motor to cut with it and a long enough arbor to accommodate it.
@@natelarge Thanks!
Thank you, excellent video. Made one yesterday following your instructions and works awesome.
super cool dude. gonna try this for honey bee boxs. thanks a million! :)
I too plan to try this. After losing hives during the great freeze of '21 (in Texas), I need more brood boxes.
Excellent tutorial on building a sled for perfect and replicable results! I usually build amplifier cabinets from Baltic Birch ply, and the blowout with my router / dovetail jig was so bad last time I knew I had to do something different. The joints were so spot-on that clamping after glue-up was a mere formality. Thanks!!!
Hola Consulta usas dos discos de corte en la sierra de meza?
Looks like a good project for me to build. I want to build a few boxes in the near future and I like the look of finger joints.
At 14:35, looks like the dado stack is set too high. Are you counting on sanding that excess off? Im new to this one.
Good job!👍👍
What is the best wood for bee hives?, which wood you are using sir?
Awesome vid! I forgot the names but your pins or tails are slightly proud….what would fix that?
Sand paper
Absofrigginlutely great stuff WOW
Well done. Looking forward to watching more of your videos. You can never have enough woodworking/jig videos. Right?
Jigs are awesome. Thanks Randy!
How do you keep the board from chipping out where the blade exits?
backer board needs to be cut by dado for zero clearance support.
Can you do a video showing how you make the complete finger joint box. Thanks
Using a Rotring 600 ?? Nice!
Thank you for this video! Very easy to follow along with!
Very well explained, down to the detail, thanks!
you cut those small pieces so easily. I get nervous when I try that. Great video. I am still a beginner. I assume finger joints are a little easier than dovetails?
Yes they are. Being a beginner is awesome. You got this.
Going to make a couple different sizes of these. Just beginning woodworking your videos are super. I bought the Bosch 1617EVSPK includes the Plunge Base.and the Bosch RA1181 router table. I am going to order the Bosch Deluxe Router Guide RA1054. I bought all these items BECAUSE OF YOUR EXCELLENT VIDEOS. Do you have a short video on how to use the plunge router base with the Bosch 1617?
Thank you. I've made a jig following the instructions and purchased some dado blades for my table saw. The problem I'm not having is that my trailing edge tears out. I've tried slow and quick motions with the jig. I'm using an 8mm combined dado stack with two blades and a chipper blade and. 05mm spacers.
my best advice is: To avoid tearout the slot opening needs to be as close to the exact width and height of your dado stack. This is best accomplished by cutting the opening with the exact combination of dado stack you are planning to use with the sled. if the opening is larger than your cut you will have tearout on the unsupported wood.
Just got fed up with my single piece of wood and peg jig. This is just what I need to get accurate repeatable box joints thank you. I need to stop being lazy and following the easy path!
I know what you mean. good luck
What is the name of your blade? They have thicker cut...
This is well done
What dado blade do u use? Do u get tear out on box joint?
Diablo. No, the backerboard stops tear out.
Great video! Have you got a link to your dado set?
I don't have a link for it. Its made by Diablo, purchased at home depot
@@natelarge Thanks Nate, I guessed it was the Diablo one but wanted to double check. Looks like a good set.
Excellent thanks!
Excellent, I like the use of the calipers in determining the sizing.
Thanks! 👍
Thank you for this.
Working in thousandths with wood is a waste of time but nicely done. Im a toolmaker and I work in tenths that is take your thousandth and split it into 10. I have to constantly remind myself that its wood and you just can get that kind of precision out of it.
Data overload!, but clearly on point to know how to attain the perfect joints. Keeping a link to revisit. Great presentation job. Thanks for sharing.
Much appreciated!
Excellent jig. Will have to make one of these for my own use.
Onde se compra esse disco de serra?
Made a small adjustment to add stability. I added a piece of the 2 x 2 in the front of the jig. About a six inch piece placed in the center
Hello and good afternoon from Valencia Spain. Please could you tell me where to buy the DADO BLADE disc?
For those in America: I got mine at home Depot. Lowe's Rockler and Woodcraft also sell them.
Sorry I didn't read your message carefully. I'm not sure where they can be purchased in Spain as some European countries have outlawed dado blades. My recommendation would be to check with a local woodworking supply store.
@@natelarge Thank you very much, I have my brother in NJ, I will ask him to buy it and send it to me.
@@jorgeacuna3935 make sure the arbor bolt on your saw is long enough to accept a dado blade. They are often only long enough for a standard blade.
Is the base a 3/4” or 1/2” plywood?
1/2 is best
Nicely done detailed video. Thank You.
Where I can get the blade to blade for the machine that way that we can do the job
home Depot
Why
cant u get dado blades in Europe
Just realy curious
silly laws
Good video. One question: the fingers I need to cut are wider than my dado set can cut. Ny suggestions as to how to adapt your method to handle this situation? Thanks for the video. Stu
Thats a good question of which I do not currently have an answer. Of the top of my head I suppose that a jig could be made but it would need to have some moving parts, specifically the spacer would need to move a spacer width away from the dado and back to allow a double sized cut. I would think the tolerances would have to be very small for it to make a tight fitting joint. Anyone else got anything?
You made this harder than it needs to be.
Hey nathan!! I heard you did youtube. But this is the first video of yours Im seeing just now. Good to see you! :) Thats fun you work with wood! I just remember you and Brandon making goofy clips! You guys should start that up as a youtube channel! haha.
Thanks for watching! Making movies and having sleep overs at the Blair's are some of my most cherished memories.
Well made vid. What brand is your table saw?
kobalt
Nice jig - thanks for the idea and tips! Good job on the video, as well. 👍🏻 and a sub for you Nate!
This video is so well made it earned you another sub. Great job.
Olá sou o Almir aqui de São Paulo, Brasil, parabéns por este jig, foi a explicação mais simples que achei no TH-cam, simples e prático, adorei, abraço
Brilliant!
How did you make the insert for your table saw?
I made a video on it. It is a zero clearance insert. Link in the description of this video
Great tutorial! Thank you for clear instruction and quality work!
thank you so much, it is very helpful :)
Thank you for the video. I never thought to make a sled for the jig. I just had dado slots in wood attached to the miter gauge, but the fit of my gauge was a bit sloppy which made for inconsistent fingers and dados. You gave a clear, concise explanation of the assembly and this will make my box joinery much better. Thanks again!
At 8:08, are you saying heighth? Width and heighth?
at 8:08 I start talking about the Height of the spacer. The height of the spacer is a 1/32 less then the height of the opening for the space in the backerboard.