Golf Club Repair - Making Parts Fit
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.ค. 2024
- Boxes to Builds vol 3, what do you do when the shaft doesn't fit into the head? We go over the various way to make the parts fit. Bonus Info is also found in the video. You just have to watch.
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I’m just now starting the hobby of club building, it’s peaceful to me. I don’t comment on videos ever but you are the man for doing this series so many questions answered and bumps in the road smoothed out!
As an exercise, I hand-sanded the tips of .370” graphite shafts down to .355” and glued them onto some taper tip heads. That worked well.
Next, I took some taper tip heads and hand-reamed them (no drill press, unfortunately) to .370” and glued them onto some parallel shafts. That worked, but the hand reaming was so much effort, I’ll never try it again - drill press or nothing. I learned a lot about “making it fit” from these exercises, which were inspired by various videos you have posted. Thanks for the inspiration as well as the instruction.
I do "hand reaming" and I agree. I can do only 2 or 3 at a time. My hands and arms get so tired that I stop making progress. My drill press is buried in a large storage space. It would take more work to get it out than to do the hand reaming.
Jim your tip about slow repetitive heating of old Ping putters that have the ball bearing? in the hosel was a club saver for me. That is such a good general rule. Thanks
This video was right on time. I'm attempting to build a Odyssey putter, as well as 2 wedges for my grandson. The shafts are a tad loose in all three. I'll rewatch this a couple times.. Thanks...
To fill the chamfer with a collared ferrule I sometimes gently heat the hosel and hold the ferrule in place until it cools. I end up with a custom fit ferrule. In most cases I have to use a felt belt to smooth the ferrule.
Thank you! First person I’ve seen use the term brass shim, now I know what to look for!
Glad I could help!
Interesting stuff. I didn’t know how many different options were available.
Nothing beats experience.
I need to come see you for a fitting soon
Great stuff McGolf! You are the man. I love your stuff and also the discussion here that you get going. Great to hear about others experiences and tips
One question I have - do you use exclusively one type of epoxy? I had used only the 24 hour stuff until recently trying GolfWorks Quick Set that cures in less than an hour. I have only used it on graphite woods and my own clubs, and always waited at least 3 hours before testing the club. What are your thoughts on the fast setting stuff?
Hey Jim - just wondering if I can get your take on my epoxy question. Thanks!
I just shafted an Adams Redline Super Hybrid 3 iron with a Matrix MFS 30+ Stiff shaft. The parallel tip shaft wouldn't go in even after abrading the tip. I had double checked that I had completely cleaned out the hosel. I have a parallel and a taper tip metal shaft set aside to test for bore type. I tested the hybrid and it was tapered. I have never seen a taper tip hybrid head before. I doubt I will again. The shaft had thick enough walls at the tip that tapering it wouldn't weaken it. It didn't take much tapering to just go to the bottom of the hosel with a tight fit. When actually doing the assembly, the epoxy makes getting a tight fitting shaft to go all of the way to the bottom easier. It ended up being less of a problem than I expected. It is ready for Ebay.
Great content. Once again Jim your prerequisite info is fantastic. Question: how flat of a lie can you go on a putter? Enjoy buddy.
The Mizuno Tour Van will use a piece of fishing line inside of the hosel when they epoxy it to tighten up the shaft so it will not wobble. There is a Mizuno video on TH-cam that will show how they do this.
Here's the video if anybody is interested in watching
th-cam.com/video/-KufLbDkAsY/w-d-xo.html
very good video
Thanks
I have had some success tightening up slightly loose fits by using shafting beads mixed into the epoxy. This is not a good idea if the fit is too loose to begin with, as the shaft may not set up straight, and you run the risk of epoxy failure (aka 'head flies off'). Again, experience helps in knowing when to use each of these options.
I recently had a set of irons built by a premium club fitting company. The irons were the new Cleveland UHX which have .355 hosels. The shaft was a graphite Aerotech Gener8 which is only sold as a .370 parallel tip. I became dissatisfied with the performance of the graphite so I decided to pull them (done correctly with a Mitchell puller). I discovered that the hosel had not been reamed but the shafts had been sanded down to fit. My question: is this an acceptable method and does it affect performance of the shaft. I was fitted with screw in type shaft/head combo.
Question on a similar note: I just purchased the LA Golf (matrix) graphite putter shaft and want to install in my 2015 Scotty newport 2. Shaft is .370 and the hosel is .355. would it be better to ream the hosel or taper the shaft? Or combine both?
When reaming an iron hosel to .370, does the inside loses its tread and becomes smoother? Do you need to do anything else after ?
Hi Jim can I put 355 recoil graphite shaft into my 370 tip CGB Clubs.. I hope you had a good game today. Nick
How far should the shaft go into the hosel? I got modus 3 120 shafts and ping blade heads. The ping head have a that little notch on hosel which only allows shaft to go in just over an inch. I tried to put Adams heads on the modus shafts. It seems like the hosel bore is deeper on Adam’s but the shaft only goes into the head the same depth as the pings. Is that ok or do I want the shaft to fully seat into Adam’s hosel? I cleaned it very well.
what if the shaft is too narrow for the club head? is there a way to install an adapter to fit the head?
Hi,
I am looking to install a couple of steelfiber shafs .370 to my TM P790 which are .355 what can I do? Ream? Thanks!
where do we find the chim...i speak french...i went to golfworks thank you ...how is it written brechim ???
How loose is too loose before resorting to shims?
Hi Jim, I recently bought a Callaway Rogue ST MAX 3HL Wood. I wanted to replace the shaft, but when I put the new 0.335 shaft in (I didn't even remove any paint), it was very wobbly around the upper part. Is my understanding correct that I'm going to need to find the correct ferrule for that club which has a shoulder, in order to hold it in place and eliminate the wobble? A broader question is, are some clubs designed in such a way that you must have the correct collared ferrule to hold it all together? Thank you.
the short answer is yes for both, I dont know what possessed the OEM to make such set up. they also have a plastic centering piece in the bottom of the shaft for some other models
How do you remove a brass shim if I decide to pull the shaft which was installed with the brass shim
sometimes it comes with the shaft if it doesnt, I put some heat to the inside of the hosel and get it with a drill. You can pick at it and use needle nose pliers too
that's what she said