I watched this video this afternoon and followed the instructions step by step, purchased an Igniter locally here in Naperville Il and installed it in under a 1/2 an hour. The oven is now working again, thank you so much for this perfect video!!!!!! I am having a big Christmas party this Saturday and this would have caused me some pain and huge expense over the next couple of days for sure...thank you again!!!
I installed a new oven igniter (purchased from Amazon) on my Hotpoint stove yesterday. Your video was spot on! I followed your clear and thorough instructions almost exactly. Thanks to you, I spent under $20 on a repair that would have easily cost me more than ten times as much if I had paid a professional. More importantly, I experienced the sense of accomplishment of learning something new and fixing a major appliance myself. Thank you!
+Josh Lubell Those are some very kind words Josh! Thank you! I think more important than the money you saved was the accomplishment of doing it yourself. That's something you can't buy, and more valuable than any amount of money. I gave you the know-how with the video, and hearing that it helped someone out is the biggest accomplishment for me, in addition to fixing my own oven! Thanks again Josh! Make some cookies and treat yourself!
Thanks man! I’ve never attempted working with gas or electrical in my home. I’m a new home owner, and was able to tackle this fix with relative ease. I only struggled with the space terminal, getting it disconnected took some extra effort which is difficult and awkward while under the oven. And the ceramic wire nut. I didn’t have wire strippers but serrated scissors worked perfectly. I bought my igniter from amazon as well for $20, and saved around $50 because I didn’t buy it from a local supplier. And saved the mechanics fee and learned a lot in the process. Thanks bud!
You are very welcome Derrick! That's great to hear! In addition to all of that, you have the satisfaction of a job well done. Early repairs in your home you tend to remember, so down the road you'll look back and remember fixing it. Yes, accessibility under the oven isn't great/ Fact of the matter is a lot of repairs really aren't difficult, but it's the lack of accessibility that makes the job tough!
This is how I feel after following your beer wisdom: fantastic, grand, marvellous, rattling, terrific, tremendous, wonderful, and most of a tremendous achievement.
Thanks a lot for this video. Everything was spot on. I ran into the most ridiculous problem though. The two screws that hold the igniter in place..... one screw came off super easy while the other one must have baked into place or something. Spent a half hour trying to remove a simple screw. Story of my life though. Thanks again!
No problem Matthew! Yeah I guess I was fortunate in that regard that the screws came right out. I've dealt with many a stubborn screw in my time. I've heard that a rubber band over the head of a Philips screw can help, though I've never had much luck with that. I usually end up using a flat blade screwdriver but you have to get just the right size, otherwise you'll strip it out worse.
Found the perfect repair video for my GE XL44 oven igniter. Thought I was looking at my own oven. Ordering on Amazon saved me over $50. That's almost three cases of beer! Thanks for the video.
I don't even drink but this damn thing has me wanting a beer now. Thanks so much for this video, it gave me a laugh I desperately needed at this moment. I am learning everything as I go, trying to "impress" my wife.....now I am a "mechanic", "appliance repairwoman", "IT specialist", etc......and so on and on and on. Two thumbs up for sure, if I had more thumbs, I'd throw those up too!!!
Awesome!!! I followed your tutorial step by step and it worked perfectly. Only cost me $20 (plus the load of money I spent on Christmas cookie ingredients), versus hiring someone. From a single mom who likes to try-it-herself-whenever-possible; Thank you!
Thanks for this instructional vid! I did it on the first attempt with no swearing involved, which itself is an accomplishment on a first-attempt home repair project.
Excellent job! You did better than I did. You know as well as I do, many home and car repairs require copious amounts of swearing, some even require the sacrifice of several small animals. And, donating blood to the project...
Great video! Just what I needed to complete the job. I knew the ignitor was bad but your video really helped in the removal of the old part and replacement of the new part.
Thank you for your video. I was able to do it with the help of your video. The 2 screws to the back really presented challenges in removing them but I did it. And what I did also was replacing those hard to get to screws with screw driver head screws so that the next time I have to do it, it will be much easier. Thanks again for your clear videos.
Very glad to hear this helped you Matthew! Yes, those bolts in the back are awful to get at, I agree! Wasn't any fun when I did it either! Replacing them with screws was a good idea, I didn't think of that!
+Miouly E. Pongnon No problem! Had to fix my oven anyway, and figured someone else is going to have this problem if I did, so I grabbed the camera! The worst part of the job is the cramped quarters in which to work, the rest is very simple.
very good thanks ... also I propped up the metal with a 6" plastic tube and was able to get to both back screws with a 1/4 socket on an extension. I appreciate your video
Thanks for making this video. It worked great on my ge oven(model#jgbp33beh3bb). Unlike your oven, the pipe on my oven did not block the screws. Nor did the wires try to retract back when unplugging like yours.
+jaykay18 It went smoothly and beautifully! Not only is my oven fixed at less than $30, but I now know I need to replace my multi-meter. lol. BTW - it's not quite as fulfilling or satisfying, but the job can also be managed with coffee instead of beer. Just thought you'd like to know. 8-P Thanks again! Edit: The job took about an hour which included adding length to the wire and the wife thoroughly cleaning underneath the unit.
Oh, and here's a tip.... The connector was the hardest part for me. But I managed to wedge a toothpick into each of the connector flanges with one hand, then the connector easily disconnected. This saved me from having to move the unit out at all.
Thanks for sharing. You saved me $275. The only mistake I made was not purchasing the igniter through Amazon, which was about $25. I bought mine at hardware store for $70 (including tax).
That's not the worst thing in the world, because you had it immediately instead of having to wait. Either way I'm very happy to hear it all worked out for you and that the video helped you out! Thanks for watching.
Jay, Your video worked like a charm! Many thanks! I did find that leaning the stove on a milk crate made it easier to work under the stove. I'll have that beer now!
+Robert Troutman Milk crate is a great idea, I'll keep that in mind for next time! I didn't want to move mine out at the time, in retrospect that's probably best way than having to be a contortionist. Thanks for watching, glad this helped you out!
That's great, Jeepgal! It's a real heartache when the oven goes out, you get that feeling "what am I going to do now". I'm really happy I was able to come to the rescue, but it's no trouble--I had to fix mine anyway! Enjoy--go bake some cookies, you can thank me later!
I'm not sure, I have not pulled mine out and decided to do it from underneath. You could always pull it out partway and tip it back and lean it against the wall.
ordered new igniter from Amazon GE WB2X9154 Igniter for Gas Broiler or Oven Sold by: Parts Appliance Chicago. For model # JGBP40BEC2WH. Seems to be wired backwards from original. On the new one the spade connector is on the bottom wire. on the original it is on the top wire. Does this make a difference?
Could you explain how you reused the big square connector on your new ignitor? Do I cut the wire off of the old one, peel back the insulating fabric, then twist the bare wires together and cover with wire nut? How far down on the old igniter do I cut? Should I even be cutting through the whole thing? Feels weird to have to cut through the bare wire...
Yeah, just cut the connector off the old one. You can cut it as close to the ignitor as possible, then you'll have the most wire. The new ignitor should come with ceramic wire nuts, just wire nut the old wire and connector onto the wire of the new one. For a cleaner installation, you can cut the wire shorter, but err on the side of caution, you can always stuff the wire in somewhere. The connector on my new one was a couple inches too short, so I cut that amount plus another inch or two to allow for the wire nut and stripped insulation.
I used the broiler ignighter years ago, now I need to replace the broiler one and did not keep the clip to attach thought when I reorder it would be the same, it isn't so can you get the clip or no?
Somewhere, there is a warehouse that has the part you need. Finding it is key. Start with the model number of your range, look that up online. Sears Parts Direct should have a listing, including part numbers, of all of the parts, every last nut and bolt, that make up that range. Find the clip you need, then either order through them, or search that part number and find a better price. Eventually, you will find it, somewhere. Lesson learned--don't cheap out when replacing parts.
Hey Jaykay. I just did this repair yesterday on my Amana oven. I couldn't find a video for my exact model. It was almost impossible to get to the bolts off the igniter and I had no idea I could pull the gas tube off of the gas jet. I thought that would make gas leak everywhere.... eventually I had to pull it off to replace the igniter and then was terrified I didn't put it back on properly. Thanks for this video that shows that this is the way to do it! Any idea how to tell if I have the gas tube on correctly? I pushed it down onto the gas jet but I dont have those two hard to reach bolts, just the screw at the front of the oven. It is also alarming that the part of the gas tube that attaches to the gas jet has a side missing... but that looks the same in your video. Anyways, just looking for someone to tell me I did this right and that I'm amazing. thanks, Teddy
Yes, you did it right, Teddy! The side that was missing is an air admittance opening, fire needs oxygen to burn, so it's drawn through as the gas flows. If you're really petrified the tube isn't on the gas jet, if you cannot smell any gas, you should be fine. If you want to absolutely make sure, you could do something dangerous, but you'd need 2 people. And that's to turn the oven on and let it ignite, and then hold a flame near the gas jet. If there's ANY fire, yell to the other person to shut it immediately, and it will shut off immediately, extinguishing any flame, like when you shut a gas burner off on the stove, it just goes right out. Honestly, I don't think you need to go to that extreme. I know it seems hokey that it just presses on there and nothing holds it, but that's how it's made. The manufacturer has tested that and found it was safe (allegedly). I made this video, what, maybe 7 years ago now, and there's been no problem with mine.
Go by model #. That almost always provides the BOM (Bill Of Materials), which should be all the correct part numbers you'll ever need. You can search on any appliance part website to get the correct part number. I happened to find this part on Amazon cheapest, so I got it there.
Yeah, in fact this was so simple I actually jumped the gun and ordered the ignitor before ever testing it. Only time I tested it was just for show, in this video!
Hello, I followed everything to install the ignitor. It glows after 20 seconds, but I am not getting flames until I open and close the door. Any suggestions?
That's odd. I wonder if you have a different model than I do. It's possible the circuit board is intervening more than it should. They can and do go bad, especially if you use the oven's self-clean function. It self-cleans the over, and roasts the circuit board to death at the same time. Are you sure you hooked the wires up right and didn't misconstrue one connector for another? Just want to cover all bases. Sometimes it's the stupidest thing...
***** I bought mine from Amazon. Do they need the model number? Well, if you don't get that and look up the part first chances are you'll get the wrong one!
***** I hope you ordered the right one. The ignitor and gas valve are wired in series. Because of that, the ignitor must have the correct current draw in order for the gas valve to open. As the ignitor gets up to temperature, the current draw increases, eventually allowing enough current to open the gas valve. Upset that balance with the wrong part and you'll get no flame. It's also possible you have a bad gas valve, such things are not unheard of.
***** I point it out at 3:38 in the video. Replacing it is beyond the scope of this video. I only pointed out the valve because it's _possible_ it went bad, not because it probably is. You could have been sold a defective ignitor, even though it lights up there's not enough current going through to pick the gas valve. I would highly recommend you do some more troubleshooting first before throwing parts at it. Throwing parts at the problem only creates unnecessary work, and costs unnecessary money. Diagnose the problem first, find out what part is bad, then replace that.
Barbara Yates Might still be a bad ignitor. The ignitor and gas valve are wired in series. When the ignitor allows enough current to flow, the gas valve opens. Turning on the stove burner might produce just enough of an electrical disturbance to cause the valve to open. It's either your ignitor or gas valve for sure.
Thats what I figured. Before I saw you're video I told my husband the ignitor must be gone because I need to use the stove to reignite the oven everytime it shuts off when it reaches temperature. Thanks for the video. I'm not able to pay someone to fix it so now I can do it
My oven igniter glows but it does not light the gas to create a flame in the oven ! The stove top and broiler igniters both create a flame without a problem. After turning on the oven, I hear the click, then see the oven igniter glow but no flame. Then I begin to smell gas. So as you can imagine I turn off the oven pretty quickly after smelling gas. Time to call a professional?
AW Johnson Heck no! First and foremost, it's a relatively small gas jet, you're looking at a good 20 full seconds (that's a LONG time when you're panicking about the gas making the house blow up) in order for it to possibly have enough gas built up to "go boom", and even then it would be a relatively quick and small boom. First thing I would try: Remove the bottom oven panel so you can see the burner and the ignitor. Hold a lit match or lighter next to the burner, and wait. When the gas valve opens, the burner should light up relatively quickly and have a nice blue flame from all jets. If that's not happening, but you smell gas, then it's a burner issue. Gas jet could be clogged, or perhaps the jets on the burner tube itself are clogged up right near the ignitor. That would be the simplest of all. Next thing: The ignitor, even though it glows. The way it works is they have the ignitor and gas valve wired in series. Once the ignitor pulls its maximum current (fully lit), it allows enough current to flow to open the gas valve, the burner lights, and you're baking. If the ignitor is faulty (not getting hot enough to ignite the gas, but the gas valve is opening, you'll have the symptom you describe. Remember, the "professional" probably won't be. He's looking for your money, and he'll take every bit of it that he can get. If he sees a fancy car in your driveway, a really nice big TV and nice couches in the living room, your price just went up. Gas is pretty forgiving if you're careful. The ignitor is cheap enough (it's only about a $20 gamble); if the burner lights with a match when the gas valve opens, it's likely an ignitor problem. I'd blow the $20 first and try it, worst case you go to plan B.
hey Jay, I'm Jay also. maybe you can help me. I just bought a newer style but USED G.E. oven. I thought I had same problem but after checking BOTH (bake and broil) of my igniters glow but neither light up and start the gas flame and heat up the oven. the gas is connected properly and ALL 4 top burners on top of the oven work properly. PLEASE HELP. TY.
The burners and their ignitors are a separate entity; you can basically consider it a separate stove top and separate oven in one unit. If I understand you correctly, when you set the oven to do something, the ignitor WILL INDEED glow for you? If so, but it won't light, then the gas valve is likely bad. There is still a chance the ignitor is bad: They wire the ignitor in series with the gas valve. As the ignitor heats up, it pulls more and more current and eventually allows the gas valve enough current for it to open. Only if the ignitor glows fully will that happen. Mine, as you saw, took about 45 seconds. I don't know why it takes that long, the old one never did, but it works just perfectly anyway.
ty ty ty sooo much for the FAST response. after further review, there is a very small red plastic flip switch on the valve, it says down for off.... guess what? yes it was down. sorry for wasting your time. I didn't see it at first as it was hidden behind the metal frame that holds the gas valve. BOTH WORK LIKE A CHARM NOW. TY again.
Wasting my time, are you kidding? I pointed you in the right direction, that's enough for me! Glad to hear it worked out for you! Throw an extra batch of cookies in for me next time you make them, and please consider subscribing!
You are merely testing for continuity. If it reads open circuit, the ignitor is bad. I did show how to check to ensure voltage is going to the ignitor; between those 2 tests you can determine if you have a bad ignitor or other problem. If you must know, a good ignitor will read between 0 and 1100 ohms.
I just wanted to report that it will probably be necessary to splice the connectors from the old part to the new part as the new part wires may be too short. Also, the lead connecting to the gas valve on the new part wasn't insulated (and too short), but it was insulated on the old part. When splicing be sure both ends are stripped clean of the insulating fabric and you did not strip away any of the bare wire. Hold both ends next to each other and twist them clockwise before applying the porcelain wire nut. I did not get a good connection on my first try and the igniter didn't get enough juice and didn't work. I thought it was a bad replacement part, so I took off the wire nuts and tested the new part with a multimeter and the part was OK. I re-did the wire nuts and the igniter worked!
That's good to hear for the rest of the community that came here. You always want to make sure you have good, clean, solid connections between any wire; thanks for the tips!
My safety valve is suspect. The Broiler works. Swaped out the oven and broiler ignitor, and still no oven. Do not the igniter when I meet her the broiler connectors on the valve and getting around 3.6 volts and when I meter the oven connectors we're only getting 2.6 volts so I'm going to replace the safety valve.
jaykay18 Is it safe to assume that a properly functioning safety valve would have the same meter readings at the broiler as well as the oven terminals?
I've never tested them both, but considering they are basically both the same valves, same ignitors, and same everything else, just upside down, I'd expect the readings to be the same.
jaykay18 okay we replace the safety valve and still the oven will not light.. the broiler lights... the burners light ...and both igniters work with the boiler. neither one will light the oven on... igniter glows red hot with the oven but there's no gas flow... We also replace the control board with a used control board I doubt the chances are we have two bad control boards .. what the heck we test next?
That's really peculiar. From what I remember reading, the ignitor and safety valve are wired in series. It could be possible that the new safety valve is also bad. Or, could the gas line be plugged going to the safety valve? How about the gas jet where it comes out from?
Sir you don't need to cut any wire to measure the ignitor just use a amp meter and put it around one of the wires when you turn the igniter on. It must read a min. Amperage around 3 amp to be good. Also be warned !!! You must have high carbon monoxide readings next to the stove up around 1000 parts per million or more because I noticed in your video your damper is half-closed just above the safety valve. In order to get the lowest readings of carbon monoxide that damper must be fully opened if you notice the screw and the slot that the screw is in you have at least 50% of that air damper closed that has to be given you extremely high readings of carbon monoxide it must be fully open just reach in and twist it open assuming the screw is not tight. if you have a meter that measures carbon monoxide put the meter right next to the vent of the oven for a reading not several feet away you are looking for around 50 ppm NOT a 1000 or more
For those who have clamp-on ammeters, that is an option. I don't. Many people don't. As for the CO, that stove, to my knowledge, was never serviced before, and I put everything back exactly as it was. I've had the oven on for hours and been in the kitchen at the same time without even the most remote feelings of carbon monoxide, and I know what that's like since I was in a situation when I was much younger where the carbon monoxide almost killed me, so I clearly know the warning signs.
@@jaykay18 I would not use my self as a carbon monoxide tester too dangerous and not accurate.its best to have a meter for safety and accuracy put right up next to the stove better safe than sorry
@@jaykay18 I understand. But I have personally seen a carbon monoxide tester measure extremely high levels of carbon monoxide at the stove while at the same time a standard household carbon monoxide tester across from the stove up on the wall was registering zero and I have seen this a number of times do not trust wall mounted carbon monoxide testers
Most people don't know that carbon monoxide detectors have a limited lifespan. My dad knows this but still has one that plugs in back from the 90s, maybe as a false sense of security. It's never read anything BUT zero, and that was true even when I nearly died from it, it still read zero. On the other hand, I do change mine out periodically because I never forgot that incident.
but jayayayay its not safe to keep the power on and the gas on do what you want and don't care about what pseg and national grid tels you , its your house right?
Any seasoned technician will leave power on whenever possible. For a stove it doesn't matter but for computers or machinery that has to reset or recalibrate which may take several minutes, the power will be left on. Otherwise for each step of troubleshooting you could be looking at a 15 minute reset. No bueno. Of course, it shouldn't have broken to begin with, but that's another subject for another video.
jaykay18 when i said that in the comment i was being sarcastic kind of like what sharkie does sarcasum doesn't go well in text I was also going to try and get a VOIP adapter from nettalk and connect a fax machine to it and have a voip telephone number just for faxing can you tell me if this can be done
Oh, I knew full well you were being sarcastic! You can fax over VoIP, though not necessarily reliably. I have dialed by modem across the nation and stayed connected (over VoIP) so it can be done.
Of course it's overly exaggerated, I said it facetiously. Then again, with the rip-off prices repair people will charge for such a simple repair, I'm also not that far off base.
@@jaykay18 My local appliance repairmen charge an average $348 plus parts for house calls. That is a reasonable repair rate, not $5000, but thanks for correcting yourself.🤦♂️
@@bigubee That's completely unreasonable. First off, I paid $20 for the part. Your repairman gets them cheaper and will easily charge 3 times the price. Not only that, I can buy an entire new stove for under $700.
@@jaykay18 The reason I landed on your video presentation was to figure out how to fix the igniter on my GE Stove. Found that all stoves are designed differently and paying a repairman to come out and rip you off to tell you your stove is not worth fixing and still charge you for the house call is unfair. Watching how you located the igniter gave me a pretty good idea of what am I looking for. I found the igniter and reseated the connector fired up and was fixed. This idiot of a repairman could not fix it and still charged me? Sounds like a good business to go out and rip people off? Thank you TH-cam for free service. Oh by the way, thanks for the $5000 savings :)
I watched this video this afternoon and followed the instructions step by step, purchased an Igniter locally here in Naperville Il and installed it in under a 1/2 an hour. The oven is now working again, thank you so much for this perfect video!!!!!! I am having a big Christmas party this Saturday and this would have caused me some pain and huge expense over the next couple of days for sure...thank you again!!!
Excellent job! Thanks for watching!
I installed a new oven igniter (purchased from Amazon) on my Hotpoint stove yesterday. Your video was spot on! I followed your clear and thorough instructions almost exactly. Thanks to you, I spent under $20 on a repair that would have easily cost me more than ten times as much if I had paid a professional. More importantly, I experienced the sense of accomplishment of learning something new and fixing a major appliance myself. Thank you!
+Josh Lubell Those are some very kind words Josh! Thank you! I think more important than the money you saved was the accomplishment of doing it yourself. That's something you can't buy, and more valuable than any amount of money. I gave you the know-how with the video, and hearing that it helped someone out is the biggest accomplishment for me, in addition to fixing my own oven! Thanks again Josh! Make some cookies and treat yourself!
Thanks man! I’ve never attempted working with gas or electrical in my home. I’m a new home owner, and was able to tackle this fix with relative ease. I only struggled with the space terminal, getting it disconnected took some extra effort which is difficult and awkward while under the oven. And the ceramic wire nut. I didn’t have wire strippers but serrated scissors worked perfectly.
I bought my igniter from amazon as well for $20, and saved around $50 because I didn’t buy it from a local supplier. And saved the mechanics fee and learned a lot in the process.
Thanks bud!
You are very welcome Derrick! That's great to hear! In addition to all of that, you have the satisfaction of a job well done. Early repairs in your home you tend to remember, so down the road you'll look back and remember fixing it.
Yes, accessibility under the oven isn't great/ Fact of the matter is a lot of repairs really aren't difficult, but it's the lack of accessibility that makes the job tough!
This is how I feel after following your beer wisdom:
fantastic, grand, marvellous, rattling, terrific, tremendous, wonderful, and most of a tremendous achievement.
john kamina Thank you John!
Thanks a lot for this video. Everything was spot on. I ran into the most ridiculous problem though. The two screws that hold the igniter in place..... one screw came off super easy while the other one must have baked into place or something. Spent a half hour trying to remove a simple screw. Story of my life though. Thanks again!
No problem Matthew! Yeah I guess I was fortunate in that regard that the screws came right out. I've dealt with many a stubborn screw in my time. I've heard that a rubber band over the head of a Philips screw can help, though I've never had much luck with that. I usually end up using a flat blade screwdriver but you have to get just the right size, otherwise you'll strip it out worse.
Found the perfect repair video for my GE XL44 oven igniter. Thought I was looking at my own oven. Ordering on Amazon saved me over $50. That's almost three cases of beer! Thanks for the video.
Awesomesauce! Thanks, Fred!
I don't even drink but this damn thing has me wanting a beer now. Thanks so much for this video, it gave me a laugh I desperately needed at this moment. I am learning everything as I go, trying to "impress" my wife.....now I am a "mechanic", "appliance repairwoman", "IT specialist", etc......and so on and on and on. Two thumbs up for sure, if I had more thumbs, I'd throw those up too!!!
Thank you so much Shannon!
Awesome!!! I followed your tutorial step by step and it worked perfectly. Only cost me $20 (plus the load of money I spent on Christmas cookie ingredients), versus hiring someone. From a single mom who likes to try-it-herself-whenever-possible; Thank you!
That's really great to hear! I'm so glad this helped you out, especially this time of year where that oven will very much be in use!
Thanks for this instructional vid! I did it on the first attempt with no swearing involved, which itself is an accomplishment on a first-attempt home repair project.
Excellent job! You did better than I did. You know as well as I do, many home and car repairs require copious amounts of swearing, some even require the sacrifice of several small animals. And, donating blood to the project...
I owe you a case of beer for your excellent video. Great detail, showed how to test igniter and where to get a replacement. Thanks
Sweet! Thanks Ken!
Great video! Just what I needed to complete the job. I knew the ignitor was bad but your video really helped in the removal of the old part and replacement of the new part.
+Richard Cary Thanks Rich, glad it helped out! Waiting for the next batch of cookies ;-)
Thank you for your video. I was able to do it with the help of your video. The 2 screws to the back really presented challenges in removing them but I did it. And what I did also was replacing those hard to get to screws with screw driver head screws so that the next time I have to do it, it will be much easier. Thanks again for your clear videos.
Very glad to hear this helped you Matthew! Yes, those bolts in the back are awful to get at, I agree! Wasn't any fun when I did it either! Replacing them with screws was a good idea, I didn't think of that!
Thank you so much for this video. I fixed the oven with confidence. I loved the paper towel trick. Best of luck in the future!
Thanks Jason! Yeah the paper towel trick is great, works with all sorts of different bolts, very convenient. Glad this helped you out!
Much better and more detailed than some similar videos I’ve seen on same repair thank you.
Thanks very much!
Thanks Jaykay, you saved me $100 doing the job myself. Very helpful video!
Great to hear Carl!
Thanks to you I know exactly what to do. My igniter failed the continuity test, part ordered and I'll be all set to go
Thanks Gregory! Throw an extra batch of cookies in for me!
Fabulous tutorial. One of the most explanatory that I've ever seen. My thanks.
And thank you!
Thank you! Oven works great now and family is very happy!
Great to hear Sandy! Throw an extra batch of cookies in for me!
What a pleasant and easy to follow video! Thank you.
+Miouly E. Pongnon No problem! Had to fix my oven anyway, and figured someone else is going to have this problem if I did, so I grabbed the camera! The worst part of the job is the cramped quarters in which to work, the rest is very simple.
Thanks for this video. I was about to try and pull my oven off the wall. Was able to get it done in no time!
Great to hear, glad this helped you out!
Great explanation. Perfect step by step. Saved my butt. Finishing my celebratory beer now.
+Gabriel Mark Lipper Sweet!
very good thanks ... also I propped up the metal with a 6" plastic tube and was able to get to both back screws with a 1/4 socket on an extension. I appreciate your video
Thanks Phil, and that's some great advice!
Thanks for making this video. It worked great on my ge oven(model#jgbp33beh3bb). Unlike your oven, the pipe on my oven did not block the screws. Nor did the wires try to retract back when unplugging like yours.
+christopher jones Glad this helped you out! Sounds like you had a bit of an easier time replacing yours than I did mine!
GREAT JOB. You made it look so easy that I attempted this and fixed my problem
Thanks Geoff! Glad your oven is back up and running!
Fantastic! Exactly what I was looking for! I actually can't wait to start the project later today. I'll return and let you know how it went. Thanks!
+icopus Great! Can't wait to hear how it went!
+jaykay18 It went smoothly and beautifully! Not only is my oven fixed at less than $30, but I now know I need to replace my multi-meter. lol. BTW - it's not quite as fulfilling or satisfying, but the job can also be managed with coffee instead of beer. Just thought you'd like to know. 8-P Thanks again!
Edit: The job took about an hour which included adding length to the wire and the wife thoroughly cleaning underneath the unit.
icopus Fantastic job! Glad this helped you out, and thanks for the sub!
Oh, and here's a tip....
The connector was the hardest part for me. But I managed to wedge a toothpick into each of the connector flanges with one hand, then the connector easily disconnected. This saved me from having to move the unit out at all.
icopus Thanks for the additional info, hopefully that will help someone else out.
Thanks for sharing. You saved me $275. The only mistake I made was not purchasing the igniter through Amazon, which was about $25. I bought mine at hardware store for $70 (including tax).
That's not the worst thing in the world, because you had it immediately instead of having to wait. Either way I'm very happy to hear it all worked out for you and that the video helped you out! Thanks for watching.
Your tips worked perfect and took minimal time.
***** Thanks Kevin!
Jay, Your video worked like a charm! Many thanks! I did find that leaning the stove on a milk crate made it easier to work under the stove. I'll have that beer now!
+Robert Troutman Milk crate is a great idea, I'll keep that in mind for next time! I didn't want to move mine out at the time, in retrospect that's probably best way than having to be a contortionist. Thanks for watching, glad this helped you out!
I ALWAYS use my beer tool when I work on my car. I like your humor man.
Thanks Will!
Thank you so much for the video! I easily replaced the ignitor with your step by step video. Thanks!
That's great, Jeepgal! It's a real heartache when the oven goes out, you get that feeling "what am I going to do now". I'm really happy I was able to come to the rescue, but it's no trouble--I had to fix mine anyway! Enjoy--go bake some cookies, you can thank me later!
You're doing more than a good job. . . FACT!
+Paul R. Thanks Paul!
Thanks!! Did this over the weekend. Everything works great!! This video helped.
Great to hear everything worked out the way it was supposed to! Thanks for watching, Nancy!
Thanks for Good VDO to Replace Ingitor Screw need to Open and wire Disconnect is this Connector Access from Rear ?
I'm not sure, I have not pulled mine out and decided to do it from underneath. You could always pull it out partway and tip it back and lean it against the wall.
Thank you very much for this video, we did a successful igniter change because of it.
Excellent, glad to hear that!
Thanks a ton! I followed all of your instructions, including the beer. Nothing like saving $ and the satisfaction of doing it yourself!
Great! Next beer's on me Josh!
ordered new igniter from Amazon GE WB2X9154 Igniter for Gas Broiler or Oven
Sold by: Parts Appliance Chicago. For model # JGBP40BEC2WH. Seems to be wired backwards from original. On the new one the spade connector is on the bottom wire. on the original it is on the top wire. Does this make a difference?
+Robert Burer No it doesn't make a difference. It's AC current, so it can be hooked either which way.
Could you explain how you reused the big square connector on your new ignitor? Do I cut the wire off of the old one, peel back the insulating fabric, then twist the bare wires together and cover with wire nut? How far down on the old igniter do I cut? Should I even be cutting through the whole thing? Feels weird to have to cut through the bare wire...
Yeah, just cut the connector off the old one. You can cut it as close to the ignitor as possible, then you'll have the most wire. The new ignitor should come with ceramic wire nuts, just wire nut the old wire and connector onto the wire of the new one. For a cleaner installation, you can cut the wire shorter, but err on the side of caution, you can always stuff the wire in somewhere. The connector on my new one was a couple inches too short, so I cut that amount plus another inch or two to allow for the wire nut and stripped insulation.
I used the broiler ignighter years ago, now I need to replace the broiler one and did not keep the clip to attach thought when I reorder it would be the same, it isn't so can you get the clip or no?
Somewhere, there is a warehouse that has the part you need. Finding it is key. Start with the model number of your range, look that up online. Sears Parts Direct should have a listing, including part numbers, of all of the parts, every last nut and bolt, that make up that range. Find the clip you need, then either order through them, or search that part number and find a better price. Eventually, you will find it, somewhere. Lesson learned--don't cheap out when replacing parts.
Hey Jaykay. I just did this repair yesterday on my Amana oven. I couldn't find a video for my exact model. It was almost impossible to get to the bolts off the igniter and I had no idea I could pull the gas tube off of the gas jet. I thought that would make gas leak everywhere.... eventually I had to pull it off to replace the igniter and then was terrified I didn't put it back on properly. Thanks for this video that shows that this is the way to do it! Any idea how to tell if I have the gas tube on correctly? I pushed it down onto the gas jet but I dont have those two hard to reach bolts, just the screw at the front of the oven. It is also alarming that the part of the gas tube that attaches to the gas jet has a side missing... but that looks the same in your video. Anyways, just looking for someone to tell me I did this right and that I'm amazing. thanks, Teddy
Yes, you did it right, Teddy! The side that was missing is an air admittance opening, fire needs oxygen to burn, so it's drawn through as the gas flows.
If you're really petrified the tube isn't on the gas jet, if you cannot smell any gas, you should be fine. If you want to absolutely make sure, you could do something dangerous, but you'd need 2 people. And that's to turn the oven on and let it ignite, and then hold a flame near the gas jet. If there's ANY fire, yell to the other person to shut it immediately, and it will shut off immediately, extinguishing any flame, like when you shut a gas burner off on the stove, it just goes right out. Honestly, I don't think you need to go to that extreme. I know it seems hokey that it just presses on there and nothing holds it, but that's how it's made. The manufacturer has tested that and found it was safe (allegedly).
I made this video, what, maybe 7 years ago now, and there's been no problem with mine.
Seriously, thank you sooo much. Haven't done it yet, but plan on it. Made me laugh, too, so thanks for that also!
+Laura P Just dong what I do best! Thanks for watching Laura, if you have any questions just ask! And let me know how it turns out!
Did you match parts #numbers and where are they on unit or did you do by model #?
Go by model #. That almost always provides the BOM (Bill Of Materials), which should be all the correct part numbers you'll ever need. You can search on any appliance part website to get the correct part number. I happened to find this part on Amazon cheapest, so I got it there.
Great video!! just finished doing a repair thanks.
MrFrendz4lyfe Cool! Glad it worked out for you, hopefully this video helped out!
This video most definitely helped out thanks again.
My igniter is not working but when I checked with multi meter readings are keep changing what does it mean
The ignitor is cheap, you might try replacing it.
@@jaykay18 thanks 😊
No problem, let me know how it turns out.
at the end the suspense was killing me lol . thanks for the good info
+Andy Cline No problem Andy; all ignitors are a bit different.
Nice project! It's aways nice when it's something simple (yes I consider is simple, haha) like that.
Yeah, in fact this was so simple I actually jumped the gun and ordered the ignitor before ever testing it. Only time I tested it was just for show, in this video!
Hello,
I followed everything to install the ignitor. It glows after 20 seconds, but I am not getting flames until I open and close the door. Any suggestions?
That's odd. I wonder if you have a different model than I do. It's possible the circuit board is intervening more than it should. They can and do go bad, especially if you use the oven's self-clean function. It self-cleans the over, and roasts the circuit board to death at the same time.
Are you sure you hooked the wires up right and didn't misconstrue one connector for another? Just want to cover all bases. Sometimes it's the stupidest thing...
just what I needed same GE stove and I saved alot of $$$$$$$$.hey..if I can service Plasma and RF generators I can fix my own oven(with your help)
+Christine VanDyke Thanks, it's really a very straightforward procedure.
***** I bought mine from Amazon. Do they need the model number? Well, if you don't get that and look up the part first chances are you'll get the wrong one!
***** I hope you ordered the right one. The ignitor and gas valve are wired in series. Because of that, the ignitor must have the correct current draw in order for the gas valve to open. As the ignitor gets up to temperature, the current draw increases, eventually allowing enough current to open the gas valve. Upset that balance with the wrong part and you'll get no flame. It's also possible you have a bad gas valve, such things are not unheard of.
***** I point it out at 3:38 in the video. Replacing it is beyond the scope of this video.
I only pointed out the valve because it's _possible_ it went bad, not because it probably is. You could have been sold a defective ignitor, even though it lights up there's not enough current going through to pick the gas valve.
I would highly recommend you do some more troubleshooting first before throwing parts at it. Throwing parts at the problem only creates unnecessary work, and costs unnecessary money. Diagnose the problem first, find out what part is bad, then replace that.
***** Yes, WB13K21 is supposed to be the right ignitor.
my igniter glows but it flame won't light until I click the igniter on one of the stove top burners.
Barbara Yates Might still be a bad ignitor. The ignitor and gas valve are wired in series. When the ignitor allows enough current to flow, the gas valve opens. Turning on the stove burner might produce just enough of an electrical disturbance to cause the valve to open. It's either your ignitor or gas valve for sure.
Thats what I figured. Before I saw you're video I told my husband the ignitor must be gone because I need to use the stove to reignite the oven everytime it shuts off when it reaches temperature. Thanks for the video. I'm not able to pay someone to fix it so now I can do it
Barbara Yates Great! It's either one or the other so don't worry!
My oven igniter glows but it does not light the gas to create a flame in the oven ! The stove top and broiler igniters both create a flame without a problem. After turning on the oven, I hear the click, then see the oven igniter glow but no flame. Then I begin to smell gas. So as you can imagine I turn off the oven pretty quickly after smelling gas. Time to call a professional?
AW Johnson Heck no! First and foremost, it's a relatively small gas jet, you're looking at a good 20 full seconds (that's a LONG time when you're panicking about the gas making the house blow up) in order for it to possibly have enough gas built up to "go boom", and even then it would be a relatively quick and small boom.
First thing I would try: Remove the bottom oven panel so you can see the burner and the ignitor. Hold a lit match or lighter next to the burner, and wait. When the gas valve opens, the burner should light up relatively quickly and have a nice blue flame from all jets. If that's not happening, but you smell gas, then it's a burner issue. Gas jet could be clogged, or perhaps the jets on the burner tube itself are clogged up right near the ignitor. That would be the simplest of all.
Next thing: The ignitor, even though it glows. The way it works is they have the ignitor and gas valve wired in series. Once the ignitor pulls its maximum current (fully lit), it allows enough current to flow to open the gas valve, the burner lights, and you're baking. If the ignitor is faulty (not getting hot enough to ignite the gas, but the gas valve is opening, you'll have the symptom you describe.
Remember, the "professional" probably won't be. He's looking for your money, and he'll take every bit of it that he can get. If he sees a fancy car in your driveway, a really nice big TV and nice couches in the living room, your price just went up.
Gas is pretty forgiving if you're careful. The ignitor is cheap enough (it's only about a $20 gamble); if the burner lights with a match when the gas valve opens, it's likely an ignitor problem. I'd blow the $20 first and try it, worst case you go to plan B.
hey Jay, I'm Jay also. maybe you can help me. I just bought a newer style but USED G.E. oven. I thought I had same problem but after checking BOTH (bake and broil) of my igniters glow but neither light up and start the gas flame and heat up the oven. the gas is connected properly and ALL 4 top burners on top of the oven work properly. PLEASE HELP. TY.
The burners and their ignitors are a separate entity; you can basically consider it a separate stove top and separate oven in one unit.
If I understand you correctly, when you set the oven to do something, the ignitor WILL INDEED glow for you? If so, but it won't light, then the gas valve is likely bad. There is still a chance the ignitor is bad: They wire the ignitor in series with the gas valve. As the ignitor heats up, it pulls more and more current and eventually allows the gas valve enough current for it to open. Only if the ignitor glows fully will that happen. Mine, as you saw, took about 45 seconds. I don't know why it takes that long, the old one never did, but it works just perfectly anyway.
ty ty ty sooo much for the FAST response. after further review, there is a very small red plastic flip switch on the valve, it says down for off.... guess what? yes it was down. sorry for wasting your time. I didn't see it at first as it was hidden behind the metal frame that holds the gas valve. BOTH WORK LIKE A CHARM NOW. TY again.
beer time
Wasting my time, are you kidding? I pointed you in the right direction, that's enough for me! Glad to hear it worked out for you! Throw an extra batch of cookies in for me next time you make them, and please consider subscribing!
So helpful! Thank you!
@@PlayingOnThyme You're welcome.
how many ohm for normal igniter? you do not show.
You are merely testing for continuity. If it reads open circuit, the ignitor is bad. I did show how to check to ensure voltage is going to the ignitor; between those 2 tests you can determine if you have a bad ignitor or other problem.
If you must know, a good ignitor will read between 0 and 1100 ohms.
I just wanted to report that it will probably be necessary to splice the connectors from the old part to the new part as the new part wires may be too short. Also, the lead connecting to the gas valve on the new part wasn't insulated (and too short), but it was insulated on the old part. When splicing be sure both ends are stripped clean of the insulating fabric and you did not strip away any of the bare wire. Hold both ends next to each other and twist them clockwise before applying the porcelain wire nut. I did not get a good connection on my first try and the igniter didn't get enough juice and didn't work. I thought it was a bad replacement part, so I took off the wire nuts and tested the new part with a multimeter and the part was OK. I re-did the wire nuts and the igniter worked!
That's good to hear for the rest of the community that came here. You always want to make sure you have good, clean, solid connections between any wire; thanks for the tips!
Fred Karb Thanks for the tip. I didn't get the electrical connection good on my first try. I rechecked and it fired right up. Thank you !!
Angela Russo Excellent! Thanks for watching!
Excellent video !
+Steve Kennon Thanks Steve!
My safety valve is suspect. The Broiler works. Swaped out the oven and broiler ignitor, and still no oven. Do not the igniter when I meet her the broiler connectors on the valve and getting around 3.6 volts and when I meter the oven connectors we're only getting 2.6 volts so I'm going to replace the safety valve.
The safety valves can and do go bad, it's not unheard of.
jaykay18
Is it safe to assume that a properly functioning safety valve would have the same meter readings at the broiler as well as the oven terminals?
I've never tested them both, but considering they are basically both the same valves, same ignitors, and same everything else, just upside down, I'd expect the readings to be the same.
jaykay18
okay we replace the safety valve and still the oven will not light..
the broiler lights... the burners light ...and both igniters work with the boiler. neither one will light the oven on... igniter glows red hot with the oven but there's no gas flow...
We also replace the control board with a used control board I doubt the chances are we have two bad control boards ..
what the heck we test next?
That's really peculiar. From what I remember reading, the ignitor and safety valve are wired in series. It could be possible that the new safety valve is also bad. Or, could the gas line be plugged going to the safety valve? How about the gas jet where it comes out from?
like ur style sir
+Anthony Garropy Thanks Anthony, subscribe for plenty more!
110K Views and only 800 likes c'mon people help the homie out. It only takes one second
Thank you Saul!
Thanks for the video!
No problem!
I'm mechanically incline so I'm going to do it on my own. Hope it doesn't go puff.
Bobby Ojeda You can do this no problem, Bobby! Let us know how it turns out!
Thanks a ton for this video!
No problem, had to fix mine anyway!
Thanks very helpful
No problem!
Great Video!
+Bradley Herring (BeeRad) Thanks Brad!
Thanks, super helpful
No problem Dan!
Thanks so much!!!
No problem!
Good vid. Thanks. Worked great. Just a little swearing. Beer helped.
That's exactly how my experience was! Glad this helped you out!
beer is most important tool
Yes it is.
Beer fixes everything
It's been almost 5 years now (at the time of this writing) and the oven is still working perfectly since I, I mean the beer fixed it.
Sir you don't need to cut any wire to measure the ignitor just use a amp meter and put it around one of the wires when you turn the igniter on. It must read a min. Amperage around 3 amp to be good. Also be warned !!! You must have high carbon monoxide readings next to the stove up around 1000 parts per million or more because I noticed in your video your damper is half-closed just above the safety valve. In order to get the lowest readings of carbon monoxide that damper must be fully opened if you notice the screw and the slot that the screw is in you have at least 50% of that air damper closed that has to be given you extremely high readings of carbon monoxide it must be fully open just reach in and twist it open assuming the screw is not tight. if you have a meter that measures carbon monoxide put the meter right next to the vent of the oven for a reading not several feet away you are looking for around 50 ppm NOT a 1000 or more
For those who have clamp-on ammeters, that is an option. I don't. Many people don't.
As for the CO, that stove, to my knowledge, was never serviced before, and I put everything back exactly as it was. I've had the oven on for hours and been in the kitchen at the same time without even the most remote feelings of carbon monoxide, and I know what that's like since I was in a situation when I was much younger where the carbon monoxide almost killed me, so I clearly know the warning signs.
@@jaykay18 I would not use my self as a carbon monoxide tester too dangerous and not accurate.its best to have a meter for safety and accuracy put right up next to the stove better safe than sorry
Agreed. I have several carbon monoxide detectors wired into my central alarm system, and they've never gone off.
@@jaykay18 I understand. But I have personally seen a carbon monoxide tester measure extremely high levels of carbon monoxide at the stove while at the same time a standard household carbon monoxide tester across from the stove up on the wall was registering zero and I have seen this a number of times do not trust wall mounted carbon monoxide testers
Most people don't know that carbon monoxide detectors have a limited lifespan. My dad knows this but still has one that plugs in back from the 90s, maybe as a false sense of security. It's never read anything BUT zero, and that was true even when I nearly died from it, it still read zero. On the other hand, I do change mine out periodically because I never forgot that incident.
🇺🇸👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks.
but jayayayay its not safe to keep the power on and the gas on
do what you want and don't care about what pseg and national grid tels you , its your house right?
Any seasoned technician will leave power on whenever possible. For a stove it doesn't matter but for computers or machinery that has to reset or recalibrate which may take several minutes, the power will be left on. Otherwise for each step of troubleshooting you could be looking at a 15 minute reset. No bueno.
Of course, it shouldn't have broken to begin with, but that's another subject for another video.
jaykay18
when i said that in the comment i was being sarcastic kind of like what sharkie does sarcasum doesn't go well in text
I was also going to try and get a VOIP adapter from nettalk and connect a fax machine to it and have a voip telephone number just for faxing can you tell me if this can be done
Oh, I knew full well you were being sarcastic!
You can fax over VoIP, though not necessarily reliably. I have dialed by modem across the nation and stayed connected (over VoIP) so it can be done.
jaykay18
thanks jay
jaykay18
Very helpful!
Problem solved thanks to you jaykay!
Peace and God Bless! Hope the beer was a joy!
Dont make it a project. The oven ignitor is usually it. Just change the thing and have a beer.
I did!
AND YOUR GONNA BE SAVING $5000...OK...LMAO
+Josh McCloud Well, maybe a bit of exaggeration, but certainly $5000 in mental anguish of finding a replacement stove and its installation!
OK..I'll give ya that lol..seriously though thx for vid saved me some time
Josh McCloud Yeah, no problem!
You gonna save $5000 by doing this job yourself is overly exaggerated! Be realistic with your words big guy!
Of course it's overly exaggerated, I said it facetiously. Then again, with the rip-off prices repair people will charge for such a simple repair, I'm also not that far off base.
@@jaykay18 My local appliance repairmen charge an average $348 plus parts for house calls. That is a reasonable repair rate, not $5000, but thanks for correcting yourself.🤦♂️
@@bigubee That's completely unreasonable. First off, I paid $20 for the part. Your repairman gets them cheaper and will easily charge 3 times the price. Not only that, I can buy an entire new stove for under $700.
@@jaykay18 The reason I landed on your video presentation was to figure out how to fix the igniter on my GE Stove. Found that all stoves are designed differently and paying a repairman to come out and rip you off to tell you your stove is not worth fixing and still charge you for the house call is unfair. Watching how you located the igniter gave me a pretty good idea of what am I looking for. I found the igniter and reseated the connector fired up and was fixed. This idiot of a repairman could not fix it and still charged me? Sounds like a good business to go out and rip people off? Thank you TH-cam for free service. Oh by the way, thanks for the $5000 savings :)
@@bigubee No problem at all!