My job literally trained me for a day yesterday and just said if it's not shiny it still needs grinding and that was it .... Thank you for this knowledge !
Ive been a fab worker for 25 years and my son texted me asking for help with this at his new job. Im off site now for QC inspection and travel so i found this video and sent it to him. Its very sad to hear from him and from you that people still dont want to teach new trades workers the job. The industry is starving for new hires but the old guys like me dont want to teach its very sad.
I worked for 2 abrasive manufacturers for over 40 years and have visited literally thousands of manufacturers fabricating many types of steel, stainless steel and fibreglass products. This video demonstrates various levels of grinding and finishing abrasives but should not be seen as a “how to” instructional on finishing light structural steel. I never saw anyone using non woven Velcro discs of fine grit orbital psa discs to blend welds on light angle iron. My recommendation would be to use a 60 grit flap discs for this application.
I had a lot of old pipes and rebar to cut up and from what I read th-cam.com/users/postUgkxPDBfLu68o58Aw85O_J-zIFfjJARBhp-3 this would be the tool for the job. Since I had never used one, I watched a couple of youtube videos and I'm so glad I did. Some really good safety tips, which I followed, and this tool did a splendid job. One good thing to know is the weight of the tool puts just about the right amount of pressure on the metal I was cutting, so I didn't have to use a lot of pressure, which is more likely to jam the tool. It made fast work of my job.
I wish I could weld as good as your welds look. I enjoy welding on projects that come my way , but that is not all the time. In order to make my welds look better I spend a lot of time grinding them down. I have found that a 36 grit zirconium flap disc cuts through welds fast and they last for ever opposed to other flap disc's.
If you have a good hard and wear resistant stone on a die grinder and a light touch, you can do tight spots, and it won't be too chewed up - might not even need a sanding pass if it's fine enough a stone
Why is he talking like we all work where hes at!? "We dont provide these at this shop, so youll have to just order it online" 😂 all good tho, great video buddy!
BEEN IN THE GAME FOR 28YEARS I CAN CLEAN THAT UP WITH AN 80 GRIT ALL DAY LONG THEN PUT THE D.A OVER IT READY FOR PAINT OR POWDER COAT.NOT BAD WORK BUT TO SLOW AND NO NEED TO CHANGE THE DISC, YOU CAN USE THE SAME ONE JUST SCRUB IT OUT.JOB DONE
clean with soapy water? I have seen people reuse discs by cutting down the pads and disc 1/2" around. Making a set for my roloc discs so i can reuse the edge until i get to 1" size. So 3 inch, 2.5 inch. 2 inch, 1.5 inch, 1 inch, .5 inch all the same disc passed down the line to use it up completely. of course i dont use them all in order as it takes a time to switch the bits. just do all 3" until u run out. then go to all 2.5 etc.
i recommend you try anti vibration backing pad from Walter or off shore brand. the one you demo is very good for stainless but it does a number on wrist. i can only one hand grind with that kinda pad for like 10 minutes. well with anti vibration i can grind for 8 hours everyday one hand.
Isn't that 1/4" thick wheel supposed to be used for end grinding, using the flat edge of the wheel only? I would have knocked the weld down using just the edge and use a 2" sanding disk to blend. If filler would be needed, only a fraction of the area would need to be filled to blend with the parent surface.
Take a look at minute 10:00 of my Pencil Holder project part 2: th-cam.com/video/PolF1ZeXiKg/w-d-xo.html It shows in more detail how to rough out a MIG weld and smooth it down without gouging into the base material. And make sure you get in plenty of practice. Good Luck!
The flap wheels are more expensive but last longer. The sanding discs are cheaper per pad but you also need to buy a backer. In terms of finished part results, the sanding disc is more flat, and if your technique is on point you can get a very flat (nearly invisible) weld seam. The flap discs are inherently curved and generally a bit more spongy. I find it’s harder (nearly impossible) to get a flat grind with a traditional flap disc. However, if you don’t need a super flat weld seam, perhaps you just need a smoother weld seam or a rounded corner/edge, a flap wheel will save you a good amount of time and effort.
Fiber disc will get you flat surface, flap discs will just remove the weld make surface not flat and take out all of your sharp corners....also you both need cubitron 987 discs, this klingspor are bad as soon as they touch metal
My job literally trained me for a day yesterday and just said if it's not shiny it still needs grinding and that was it .... Thank you for this knowledge !
Ive been a fab worker for 25 years and my son texted me asking for help with this at his new job. Im off site now for QC inspection and travel so i found this video and sent it to him. Its very sad to hear from him and from you that people still dont want to teach new trades workers the job. The industry is starving for new hires but the old guys like me dont want to teach its very sad.
Stop moaning
If my welds looked that good I would never grind
Exactly though that's what I'm saying.
I swear lmao
Absolutely
Amen. Id leave them unpainted (if applicable) just to draw attention to my handiwork
man i only have a stick welder, can a stick weld look as good as this?
I worked for 2 abrasive manufacturers for over 40 years and have visited literally thousands of manufacturers fabricating many types of steel, stainless steel and fibreglass products. This video demonstrates various levels of grinding and finishing abrasives but should not be seen as a “how to” instructional on finishing light structural steel. I never saw anyone using non woven Velcro discs of fine grit orbital psa discs to blend welds on light angle iron. My recommendation would be to use a 60 grit flap discs for this application.
Brother I start a grinding job on Monday, I don't want to fail, wish me luck 🙏
I had a lot of old pipes and rebar to cut up and from what I read th-cam.com/users/postUgkxPDBfLu68o58Aw85O_J-zIFfjJARBhp-3 this would be the tool for the job. Since I had never used one, I watched a couple of youtube videos and I'm so glad I did. Some really good safety tips, which I followed, and this tool did a splendid job. One good thing to know is the weight of the tool puts just about the right amount of pressure on the metal I was cutting, so I didn't have to use a lot of pressure, which is more likely to jam the tool. It made fast work of my job.
Wow! What a Legend! Thanks for the tutorial!
Just asking have you ever used blue buffing pad reason I ask that what we use where I work
what about the inside of the angle iron? how do grind the inside part?
I wish I could weld as good as your welds look. I enjoy welding on projects that come my way , but that is not all the time. In order to make my welds look better I spend a lot of time grinding them down. I have found that a 36 grit zirconium flap disc cuts through welds fast and they last for ever opposed to other flap disc's.
Nice one Rob, Thanks for your great video. You are very humble in your approach and advice to your great work.
Thanks for the advice I’m a new grinder in a weld shop I also weld and I’ve been looking for someone to guide me for grinding
wish your shop would do the right thing and just teach you.
The Loram Railgrinder has come to town 😉
Clamp a piece of brass flat stock, like 1/2 × 1 1/2 on backside, and weld with a little more penetration. It will remain smooth on backside.
If you have a good hard and wear resistant stone on a die grinder and a light touch, you can do tight spots, and it won't be too chewed up - might not even need a sanding pass if it's fine enough a stone
man i only have a stick welder, can a stick weld look as good as this?
Why is he talking like we all work where hes at!? "We dont provide these at this shop, so youll have to just order it online" 😂 all good tho, great video buddy!
BEEN IN THE GAME FOR 28YEARS I CAN CLEAN THAT UP WITH AN 80 GRIT ALL DAY LONG THEN PUT THE D.A OVER IT READY FOR PAINT OR POWDER COAT.NOT BAD WORK BUT TO SLOW AND NO NEED TO CHANGE THE DISC, YOU CAN USE THE SAME ONE JUST SCRUB IT OUT.JOB DONE
Lmfaooo
clean with soapy water?
I have seen people reuse discs by cutting down the pads and disc 1/2" around. Making a set for my roloc discs so i can reuse the edge until i get to 1" size. So 3 inch, 2.5 inch. 2 inch, 1.5 inch, 1 inch, .5 inch all the same disc passed down the line to use it up completely. of course i dont use them all in order as it takes a time to switch the bits. just do all 3" until u run out. then go to all 2.5 etc.
Interesting I would have thought the weld overlap would have structural purposes...
Great 👍
If painted or powdwe coated gloss finish afterwords, you will see all grinding bites on it ??
Still want some roughness for the powder/paint to adhere. 220 grit shouldn't show through.
This was exactly what I needed. Thank you.
Exactly. If my welds were that nice, I wouldn't grind them, I'd show those puppies off.
What do u call that first disc u used
i recommend you try anti vibration backing pad from Walter or off shore brand. the one you demo is very good for stainless but it does a number on wrist. i can only one hand grind with that kinda pad for like 10 minutes. well with anti vibration i can grind for 8 hours everyday one hand.
Wow very impressive. Motivates me to practice practice practice
Woah cool sparkles
How about if you want to get it to mirror finish?
Ever used a belt sander?
Isn't that 1/4" thick wheel supposed to be used for end grinding, using the flat edge of the wheel only? I would have knocked the weld down using just the edge and use a 2" sanding disk to blend. If filler would be needed, only a fraction of the area would need to be filled to blend with the parent surface.
Your grinder makes mine look like a fidget spinner
Do you drag or pull when you weld?
What kinda backing pads do you guys use with your sand paper?
Why go to all this effort when it's going to get painted to prevent rust anyway?
What grit is the first one.?
The wheel.
What is a good approach to removing Mill scale? I’m going through flap discs like mad.
Use a poly abrasive disc, looks like black plastic mesh. mill scale flies off without cutting into the steel
How to grind round tables
At my job we just use a grinder and a da and the da is just beautiful.
What was the backing pad when using the sandpaper?
Is that Topher Grace?
Grind & Buff
thank you!
I wish I would’ve showed my welder this video before he made my driveway door. 😢
I have a grinding test coming up but have no prior experience. Any tips or advice?
Take a look at minute 10:00 of my Pencil Holder project part 2: th-cam.com/video/PolF1ZeXiKg/w-d-xo.html
It shows in more detail how to rough out a MIG weld and smooth it down without gouging into the base material. And make sure you get in plenty of practice. Good Luck!
@@robdamico5304 I'll make sure to study hard. Thank you so much!
Are there cons or benefits to using sanding discs vs flap wheels?
The flap wheels are more expensive but last longer. The sanding discs are cheaper per pad but you also need to buy a backer. In terms of finished part results, the sanding disc is more flat, and if your technique is on point you can get a very flat (nearly invisible) weld seam. The flap discs are inherently curved and generally a bit more spongy. I find it’s harder (nearly impossible) to get a flat grind with a traditional flap disc. However, if you don’t need a super flat weld seam, perhaps you just need a smoother weld seam or a rounded corner/edge, a flap wheel will save you a good amount of time and effort.
Fiber disc will get you flat surface, flap discs will just remove the weld make surface not flat and take out all of your sharp corners....also you both need cubitron 987 discs, this klingspor are bad as soon as they touch metal
Looks very nice
wow thats cool iwm gonna loernd from that tnkyo men
a grinder and paint, makes me the welder I ain't
Sorry, a wire brush only polishes mill scale. You need to grind it off.
Didn’t know Eric Forman was a welder
umm right off the bat "I got all my safety gear on..." fires off with bare hands?!
Yeah I listen to metal
cbtillery135 if my welds looks that good I would never grind
@@pjerding7950 ok
You didnt demonstrate the DA sander properly, hold it completly flat
👍🏻
wow no gloves?
The welding are weak after griding 😊😁
weird, the sound of the sandpaper grinding made my teeth hurt
Never grind perpendicular to the length of the part. Block sand with the nose
"Toothyness" gotta have it for paint to cling and gotta have it to cut metal
Just get to grinding. And when you did, you did it wrong
Care to educate us?
There be nothing left of metal if you keep on grinding like that.!!!!!
Oh no you were spraying that helmet on the bench that whole time
He was wearing it
leticia
Just too much time spent in grinding a small piece, can you imagine manufacturing 100
metal tables and customer wants in 2 days ??
It's not a video on manufacturing on a deadline, but how to clean up a weld properly.
👍🏼