Use 2 standard nuts on both sides (4 total). The outside nuts will act as a backstop with the interior nuts set, no need for nylon lockers. An old hands trick
Heya. I have bought a new turbo. My old one booster to a perfect 21psi. I had it remapped and then the turbo died (I was giving it a lot of beans haha). So I put on the new turbo and this one boosts to a ridiculous 27psi and so fast! This this will solve my issue?
Thank you, could you please clarify why after you set the nut where there is no play in the waste gate you then still rotate the nut 3 times? (To force shut it?)
Easyest way to do it is by looking in mesuring Block 111 în VCDS witch is turbocharger adaptations splitted in 4 ranges started at about 2800 RPM. If values are on positive the wastegate must be preloaded , if is negative u have to unload untill u reach adaptation near to 0. But adaptations a little bit on negative are better. This way u set the wastegate according to N75 tolerances and to work correctly with the valve. After every setup of waste u have to clear codes to reset adaptations and run the car untill values on 111 are stabile. If values are still not ok, redo the setup untill u match values a little on negative.
Assuming you have a vcds you mean. Its in my to get list it does seem as though there is a lot to that system. Lot to understand and learn. I'm running modded 1.8T in 03 Passat stage 2+ from eurosport tuning Modded K04-15 modded everything. Just getting it back together. This video helps with adjusting my wastegate. Once I have a vcds I will try to see what your talking about. All of it is very helpful and informative. Thank you and the original maker of this video.
Also a mityvac it's easier to adjust it to the psi you want and that's dead balls on .I'm gonna try that method but still the vcds is def something I'm going buy once I have my car all back together
U just saved me so much time with. Well written out and easy to understand. Do u happen to know the best way to check values for faulty n75 or would it be easier to take off and test?
You can't set a target boost by wastegate rod, the ecu will correct it via n75 or electrical actuator(as new tsi engines have). Soft tuning is the only solution. No matter how you set the wastegate, if ecu can not contol the positive deviation, or the negative one, then it will throw an dtc and ecu enters in power reduced mode. To apply positive deviation from wastegate, a boost control must be installed to repalce n75, but that trick is not a good option, engine can run very rough in soft load conditions.
Damn, that looked so easy compared to my electronic wastegate actuator. I don't get why the Germans make it so prone to fail and more challenging to fix
.......you do that then fine tune it by looking at demanded boost vs delivered..........very important step. for this you either need a diagnoses or need to know how much boost your ecu demand at full load.
Possible but waste of time. Wastegate is vacuum actuated by the N75 valve, which is electronically controlled by the ecu. Meaning when you hit the boost limit thats set in the stock map, the ecu will fully open the wastegate to cut boost and go into limp mode. No point doing any hardware mods that mess with boost because it will just result in a check engine light and less power due to limp mode. If you want more boost, take the car to a tuning garage and get it remapped on a rolling road. Or if you are cheap, get a plug and play tuning box, but not a cheap chinese knockoff, one that actually works. Alternatively fit a K04-0015 turbo, bigger injectors, remap afterwards and it should be good for around 250hp, could easily go to 300hp but I think to get there you would need to upgrade the fuel pump as well.
@@waifuracer6516 mine is a CDI. Mercedes. Is there a way to cancel out this limp mode. Van gets into 5th gear and limp mode kicks in. I want this flippin limp mode gone. I cant overtake anything at 60 mph.
Hello, I have an Audi A3 1.8T 180cv 2002. Is this the right position for the k03s? What kind of boost pressure should I get? Around 0.8? Thanks for the great video!
Nah, k03s lose boost significantly in higher rpms. They make a bit over 20lbs at 3500rpm but only 10-12 at 6500. There's graphs online showing k03 vs k04.
if you raise the boost .. the stock lines won't hold due to them not being set up to run higher boost(unless you have brand new lines) but the main one too leak is the one going to the wastegate
Been a while since I owned a 1.8t but no....my car held boost all the way, never dropped off. I have all the deletes done by myself, everything was in order and I spent hrs each week in that bay just checking and sealing bits out. Tbh people I'm getting the 1.8t feeling back so I may just grab one soon. Fucking love that engine.
@@hamzaoztoprak8381 You could tighten it to much giving more boost, I just did this last night though, not much to it, get the exhaust manifold off, and you can adjust it with a 10mm socket, you need to loosen the nut closest to the firewall first, then it will allow you to move the other jam nut.
Hey man I just got a 2012 audi tt 2.0 quattro and think it has this ko3 you speak of. Where , how and what kind of springs to you put on the waste gate actuator?
@@anthonymacaluso1488 we took a small door spring and wrapped it around the wastegate actuator nut and then secured too the opposite side of the Wastegate off the nipple. Or you could adjust the Wastegate nut and get similar results. Also we did this with a mild flash tune so limp mode wasnt a issue
This video and way too many commenters are the single most example of if you don’t know WTF you are doing leave your car alone. Stop being cheap I mean my dude is still running the stock DP, I mean if you’re going to do one, just one mod, make it count and get a $300-$1200 ECU tune and call it a day. Sure if you are poor it might take awhile to save your pennies depending on how much power you crave, but if you want to get the BIGGEST HP/TQ gains you’ll never get it any other way no matter if you did EVERY bolt-on, every tweak and every mod.
Its for the poor kids that want that little extra oomph to their 180hp car. I agree, you won't get proper power gains without a LOT of money, but this is a great little tip for kids with their first car and first job, no money and a passion for cars.
@@MrGamer-zz9zo If you are poor you simply by logic and reasoning save your money, but through blissful ignorance people want the instant gratification right here right now. Most of these commenters would kill themselves with 300hp because they think they are drivers. I don't expect anyone to gaf about my comments but I am not living your life but damn learn how to build your car correct. You can penny pinch with the little stuff that means nothing because every bolt on possible will barely yield 15hp! Your stock ECU can't or won't adapt beyond its parameters it's simple car tuning basics. You can save a year of pennies and buy a proper tune, but if you're struggling to buy a tune don't bother making your car fast. Brakes, Suspension etc all become absurdly important to your safety when you go from 110whp to 260whp.
I have one with a tune and all the goodies it works for me even in my stock one it won't boost past 15 psi without the upgraded boost controller and tune but I'm not racing the car so what's the logic of wasting my money on a 20 year old car rich or poor it would be stupid either way
@@MrGamer-zz9zo When I bought my stg 2 management I returned everything that wasn't necessary for the tune back to stock. Mods for my tune are the usual suspects. 3" exhaust system w/ DP and hfc, still too loud. LW crank and PS pulley for acceleration wasn't needed but welcome. Modded Airbox with uprated filter, upgraded brake fluid, lines and rotors, reasonably lowered Suspension and uprated solid bushings and better tires. Unfortunately the carb entity in the US went on a rampage against car tuning they don't approve. So businesses that were like we'd guarantee this or that at not even tuning anymore and there's a lot of them. And if you think you'll have better gas mileage don't bs yourself 20psi is your goto for getting back and forth from one gas station to the next as fast as possible, Lol.
this is way to much boost the stock setting from borg warner is .43 bar or 6.23 psi 4 mm of rod movement or 5/32 for ko3 and ko4 turbos anything more you run the risk of over boost and over spin on the impeller
Use 2 standard nuts on both sides (4 total). The outside nuts will act as a backstop with the interior nuts set, no need for nylon lockers. An old hands trick
Thank you! My car was over boosting and after watching this I followed the steps it runs so much better! Was about to buy a new turbo!
Heya. I have bought a new turbo. My old one booster to a perfect 21psi. I had it remapped and then the turbo died (I was giving it a lot of beans haha). So I put on the new turbo and this one boosts to a ridiculous 27psi and so fast! This this will solve my issue?
@@icecoldcola08 Yuh
Yo bro I need some help
@@heressmile7581 what's up
super vedio
Thank you, could you please clarify why after you set the nut where there is no play in the waste gate you then still rotate the nut 3 times? (To force shut it?)
Is this just for ko3 or ko4 aswell i need to set mine up on my mk1 cupra R
Thank you
Easyest way to do it is by looking in mesuring Block 111 în VCDS witch is turbocharger adaptations splitted in 4 ranges started at about 2800 RPM. If values are on positive the wastegate must be preloaded , if is negative u have to unload untill u reach adaptation near to 0. But adaptations a little bit on negative are better.
This way u set the wastegate according to N75 tolerances and to work correctly with the valve. After every setup of waste u have to clear codes to reset adaptations and run the car untill values on 111 are stabile. If values are still not ok, redo the setup untill u match values a little on negative.
Assuming you have a vcds you mean.
Its in my to get list it does seem as though there is a lot to that system. Lot to understand and learn. I'm running modded 1.8T in 03 Passat stage 2+ from eurosport tuning
Modded K04-15 modded everything. Just getting it back together. This video helps with adjusting my wastegate. Once I have a vcds I will try to see what your talking about. All of it is very helpful and informative. Thank you and the original maker of this video.
Also a mityvac it's easier to adjust it to the psi you want and that's dead balls on .I'm gonna try that method but still the vcds is def something I'm going buy once I have my car all back together
ive checked my adaptation in block 111 and there is -3% in last two values should i try to set WG to reach 0% or is it fine enough?
@@marekosowski1 No. It's ok.
U just saved me so much time with. Well written out and easy to understand. Do u happen to know the best way to check values for faulty n75 or would it be easier to take off and test?
My top bolt twisty with the rod
Cuál es la manguera q abre la válvula del turbo Passat 2000
Hı you video wastgate setting after turbo psi thanks ?
what percentage more pressure can be tolerated by stock ecu? i have a tiguan with 150 hp tsi engine if it matters.
You can't set a target boost by wastegate rod, the ecu will correct it via n75 or electrical actuator(as new tsi engines have). Soft tuning is the only solution. No matter how you set the wastegate, if ecu can not contol the positive deviation, or the negative one, then it will throw an dtc and ecu enters in power reduced mode. To apply positive deviation from wastegate, a boost control must be installed to repalce n75, but that trick is not a good option, engine can run very rough in soft load conditions.
Is the waste gate (the door in the manifold) open or closed at rest? I'm other words, does the wastegate actuator open the door or close the door?
Wastegate opens door
bien👍👍
3 tour clio 2 1l5 dci 82cv?
Damn, that looked so easy compared to my electronic wastegate actuator. I don't get why the Germans make it so prone to fail and more challenging to fix
.......you do that then fine tune it by looking at demanded boost vs delivered..........very important step. for this you either need a diagnoses or need to know how much boost your ecu demand at full load.
Mine locks much further toward the actuator then that is that an issue
Hi!
Do you have manual boost controller? Or just stock n75 valve?
Imma guess you do not know what a MBC is for.
M. Guillermo some have both the mbc is connected to an n75 valve. I guess Audi/vw couldnt pick just one lmao
Question. I dont know much about turbos. However, the item you are setting. Can this be replaced with an external wastegate.
Possible but waste of time. Wastegate is vacuum actuated by the N75 valve, which is electronically controlled by the ecu. Meaning when you hit the boost limit thats set in the stock map, the ecu will fully open the wastegate to cut boost and go into limp mode. No point doing any hardware mods that mess with boost because it will just result in a check engine light and less power due to limp mode. If you want more boost, take the car to a tuning garage and get it remapped on a rolling road. Or if you are cheap, get a plug and play tuning box, but not a cheap chinese knockoff, one that actually works. Alternatively fit a K04-0015 turbo, bigger injectors, remap afterwards and it should be good for around 250hp, could easily go to 300hp but I think to get there you would need to upgrade the fuel pump as well.
@@waifuracer6516 mine is a CDI. Mercedes. Is there a way to cancel out this limp mode. Van gets into 5th gear and limp mode kicks in. I want this flippin limp mode gone. I cant overtake anything at 60 mph.
Hello I have Renault Clio 1.2 turbo 100 HBP how do I fix it please after 80 mil per hours loose power please ??!!
Hello, I have an Audi A3 1.8T 180cv 2002. Is this the right position for the k03s? What kind of boost pressure should I get? Around 0.8? Thanks for the great video!
Yes. 1.8T 180 hp. factory boost around 0.8.
@@domdomi1658 can you get more by adjusting the wastegate
@@domdomi1658 0.8 bar?
@@joaovalente1993 Yes, 0.8 bar or around 11-12 PSI
Hi, for Astra vxr 240 cv with Turbo k04 you know it ?
You have some kind of leak there. Boost drops off crazy or is it just me.
Nah, k03s lose boost significantly in higher rpms. They make a bit over 20lbs at 3500rpm but only 10-12 at 6500.
There's graphs online showing k03 vs k04.
if you raise the boost .. the stock lines won't hold due to them not being set up to run higher boost(unless you have brand new lines) but the main one too leak is the one going to the wastegate
Been a while since I owned a 1.8t but no....my car held boost all the way, never dropped off.
I have all the deletes done by myself, everything was in order and I spent hrs each week in that bay just checking and sealing bits out.
Tbh people I'm getting the 1.8t feeling back so I may just grab one soon. Fucking love that engine.
Could there be any harm in doing this?
Yes.
@@oriancunningham What harm could it do? what should i pay attention to?
@@hamzaoztoprak8381 You could tighten it to much giving more boost, I just did this last night though, not much to it, get the exhaust manifold off, and you can adjust it with a 10mm socket, you need to loosen the nut closest to the firewall first, then it will allow you to move the other jam nut.
or you could slap a few springs on that suckah lol my ko3 loves it =)
Hey man I just got a 2012 audi tt 2.0 quattro and think it has this ko3 you speak of. Where , how and what kind of springs to you put on the waste gate actuator?
@@anthonymacaluso1488 we took a small door spring and wrapped it around the wastegate actuator nut and then secured too the opposite side of the Wastegate off the nipple.
Or you could adjust the Wastegate nut and get similar results. Also we did this with a mild flash tune so limp mode wasnt a issue
@@anthonymacaluso1488 I stopped doing it once I bought the ko4 and other goodies 💪
This video and way too many commenters are the single most example of if you don’t know WTF you are doing leave your car alone. Stop being cheap I mean my dude is still running the stock DP, I mean if you’re going to do one, just one mod, make it count and get a $300-$1200 ECU tune and call it a day. Sure if you are poor it might take awhile to save your pennies depending on how much power you crave, but if you want to get the BIGGEST HP/TQ gains you’ll never get it any other way no matter if you did EVERY bolt-on, every tweak and every mod.
Its for the poor kids that want that little extra oomph to their 180hp car. I agree, you won't get proper power gains without a LOT of money, but this is a great little tip for kids with their first car and first job, no money and a passion for cars.
It's stock setting I've done this myself no need to upgrade or blast the guy
@@MrGamer-zz9zo If you are poor you simply by logic and reasoning save your money, but through blissful ignorance people want the instant gratification right here right now. Most of these commenters would kill themselves with 300hp because they think they are drivers. I don't expect anyone to gaf about my comments but I am not living your life but damn learn how to build your car correct. You can penny pinch with the little stuff that means nothing because every bolt on possible will barely yield 15hp! Your stock ECU can't or won't adapt beyond its parameters it's simple car tuning basics. You can save a year of pennies and buy a proper tune, but if you're struggling to buy a tune don't bother making your car fast. Brakes, Suspension etc all become absurdly important to your safety when you go from 110whp to 260whp.
I have one with a tune and all the goodies it works for me even in my stock one it won't boost past 15 psi without the upgraded boost controller and tune but I'm not racing the car so what's the logic of wasting my money on a 20 year old car rich or poor it would be stupid either way
@@MrGamer-zz9zo When I bought my stg 2 management I returned everything that wasn't necessary for the tune back to stock. Mods for my tune are the usual suspects. 3" exhaust system w/ DP and hfc, still too loud. LW crank and PS pulley for acceleration wasn't needed but welcome. Modded Airbox with uprated filter, upgraded brake fluid, lines and rotors, reasonably lowered Suspension and uprated solid bushings and better tires. Unfortunately the carb entity in the US went on a rampage against car tuning they don't approve. So businesses that were like we'd guarantee this or that at not even tuning anymore and there's a lot of them. And if you think you'll have better gas mileage don't bs yourself 20psi is your goto for getting back and forth from one gas station to the next as fast as possible, Lol.
Dude could have easily used your voice this whole video🤦🏽♂️
Obviously you didn’t know that this guy took a vow of silence. Have some respect man
this is way to much boost the stock setting from borg warner is .43 bar or 6.23 psi
4 mm of rod movement or 5/32 for ko3 and ko4 turbos anything more you run the risk of over boost and over spin on the impeller
That doesn't hold boost very well.. Your needle shots up then drops off as you climb the rev range. If your gauge is correct..
That’s just how ko3 turbos are they’re small turbos with small compressor wheel they just can’t handle holding high boost towards redline
@@braydonbronson2377 stick a 2 gen k04 on there 👌
can you sendme you email. i have same question. thanks