I woud be verry verry careful assembling the pump element to the head with some thick oil to prevent the surfaces from scraching one another- my man here clunking the parts like it's nothing. Also never ever disasemble the head and pump element on the car because it sits sideways and there are numerous small bits and bobs that can fall out and never be put together properly. Aways disasemble and assemble the pump off the car where it can be put upright on a vice and there is no way parts falling off and getting lost or dirty.
Thank you so much, I'm doing a big turbo build on my alh and the last puzzle was going to be an 11mm pump I really didn't want to buy the timing tool kit, this saves about 300 bucks CDN and alot of time lol. Il calibrate the pump in VCDS after thanks for the info!
Finally, somebody is doing a video I’ve been looking for. I have. 10.M And I was thinking do I have to replace the whole pump or just part of it. Now I know thank you. Thank you so much. You made my week. Do I have to do any programming after?
I have 2 10m pumps. And one 11m. But the one that is on the 2000 Jetta is a 10.m so I just change the part you are showing in the video and I’m all good to go?
You say this will not effect timing but the 11mm will displace more fuel (everything else being the same). So won't that reach the pop pressure of the injectors in a shorter duration vs the 10mm... thus giving you some advance?
In my region, exactly the same engine has 2 different plunger, the old one has 12 mm vs the new one has 11 mm. 12 mm is 10 degrees BTDC and 11 mm is 12 degrees BTDC. I assume 2 degrees difference in injection timing probably has something to do with the size. But it’s just my guess, I’m not a mechanic
Time to see if I can toss together a fully mechanical pump now with this information. Have some 1.6 and 1.9 TD pumps, and have an AHU TDI and an ALH in my car.
@@fastinradfordable Once you factor the cost of shipping one all the way here to Canada the cost isn't so close lol. If I wanted 12mm I could get one from a 4BT Cummins but I want to have good high RPM power still.
Are you running the AHU engine in your car? I would be curious if using the ALH 11mm pump head would fit and work well on the AHU pump bddy. Let me know if you have any info on this or if you try it.
@@davidparker9676 ALH injection pumps are almost a direct swap on AHU/1Z engines, just need to enlarge the hole in the injection pump bracket and use the ALH timing belt pulley.
Was wondering but this confirms what I thought was the difference in the different pumps. I have numerous pumps to play with...still have one apart & covered in rags for the last several months on a bench that is due to be put back together still after a cleaning. I'd be interested to know what size pump is the most economical (if known) on a 1.6 TD IDI now in my 1980 VW p/u. Did a swap from a Mk2 (IP didn't have the mushroom assy on top either) thinking I would get improved mpgs but ended up dropping from mid-high 40s to low 40s & into the mid-high 30s if not careful w/ the pedal. Do like the extra pep but miss the mileage. Exhaust is 2-1/4in all the way back too. Pointing out the number marks on the block will be handy in ID'ing what is currently on the TD.
This side can wear out if debris is in the IP, otherwise it should be fine. These parts are constantly lubricated by the diesel fuel. The main way they get damaged is when the fuel has water or dirt/metal shavings in it.
@@motorbros7078you did this with the pump still on the car and not on a bench ? I was under the impression internal parts would fall out of place if that head was removed while it was laying sideways on the car.
Great explanation, would love to see a full teardown tutorial, for I am intersested in changing the internals myself
Much appreciated that you took the time out of your busy day to show us!
Thanks for sharing that, I guess I'm not the only person that wanted to know how that was done 👍
I woud be verry verry careful assembling the pump element to the head with some thick oil to prevent the surfaces from scraching one another- my man here clunking the parts like it's nothing.
Also never ever disasemble the head and pump element on the car because it sits sideways and there are numerous small bits and bobs that can fall out and never be put together properly. Aways disasemble and assemble the pump off the car where it can be put upright on a vice and there is no way parts falling off and getting lost or dirty.
Thank you so much, I'm doing a big turbo build on my alh and the last puzzle was going to be an 11mm pump I really didn't want to buy the timing tool kit, this saves about 300 bucks CDN and alot of time lol. Il calibrate the pump in VCDS after thanks for the info!
Thats awesome man! Glad it was helpful
I searched Long for This info, thanks💪🏼
Finally, somebody is doing a video I’ve been looking for. I have. 10.M And I was thinking do I have to replace the whole pump or just part of it. Now I know thank you. Thank you so much. You made my week.
Do I have to do any programming after?
I have 2 10m pumps. And one 11m. But the one that is on the 2000 Jetta is a 10.m so I just change the part you are showing in the video and I’m all good to go?
Thanks for this video, I want to try this on my AHU TDI pump.
I am trying to do the very same thing. I am wondering if the 11mm pump head from the Alh will work on the Ahu pump. Any thoughts or idea on that?
This is great content.
Very informative video!exelent
Glad to hear it, thanks!
Very helpful info, thank you!
You say this will not effect timing but the 11mm will displace more fuel (everything else being the same). So won't that reach the pop pressure of the injectors in a shorter duration vs the 10mm... thus giving you some advance?
Idealy you should calibrate injectors for a higher pop pressure but changing plunger diameter wont affect timing as much as advancing the pump.
In my region, exactly the same engine has 2 different plunger, the old one has 12 mm vs the new one has 11 mm. 12 mm is 10 degrees BTDC and 11 mm is 12 degrees BTDC. I assume 2 degrees difference in injection timing probably has something to do with the size. But it’s just my guess, I’m not a mechanic
Finally, thank you so much 👍
Veryinteresting and Very well explained, Thanks ...Yah bless...doug
Smart and well made video.
Time to see if I can toss together a fully mechanical pump now with this information. Have some 1.6 and 1.9 TD pumps, and have an AHU TDI and an ALH in my car.
Nice good luck!
Land Rover 300tdi pumps are cheap
And already 11mm+
@@fastinradfordable Once you factor the cost of shipping one all the way here to Canada the cost isn't so close lol. If I wanted 12mm I could get one from a 4BT Cummins but I want to have good high RPM power still.
Are you running the AHU engine in your car? I would be curious if using the ALH 11mm pump head would fit and work well on the AHU pump bddy.
Let me know if you have any info on this or if you try it.
@@davidparker9676 ALH injection pumps are almost a direct swap on AHU/1Z engines, just need to enlarge the hole in the injection pump bracket and use the ALH timing belt pulley.
My God man , thanks for that info !
Very useful
Where can I order the 11mm parts to convert a 10mm stock pump?
Buy a used pump from an automatic transmission ALH engine TDI
So am I right in thinking the heads are interchangeable even 5 and 6 cylinder heads? Cheers
I have a good 10mm pump, wondering if there will be noticeable play in the 11mm pump shaft to tell if mine is wore before I swap it to the 10mm body?
Was wondering but this confirms what I thought was the difference in the different pumps. I have numerous pumps to play with...still have one apart & covered in rags for the last several months on a bench that is due to be put back together still after a cleaning.
I'd be interested to know what size pump is the most economical (if known) on a 1.6 TD IDI now in my 1980 VW p/u. Did a swap from a Mk2 (IP didn't have the mushroom assy on top either) thinking I would get improved mpgs but ended up dropping from mid-high 40s to low 40s & into the mid-high 30s if not careful w/ the pedal. Do like the extra pep but miss the mileage. Exhaust is 2-1/4in all the way back too.
Pointing out the number marks on the block will be handy in ID'ing what is currently on the TD.
Good, I have mounted an 11mm plunger, in a rotary pump. the question that the car has lost power and strength. maybe I have to do electronics too?
Do these things wear out? Can be rebuild? Maybe I can pick up a high pressure side from the junk yard
This side can wear out if debris is in the IP, otherwise it should be fine.
These parts are constantly lubricated by the diesel fuel. The main way they get damaged is when the fuel has water or dirt/metal shavings in it.
Yes they wear out and when they do the engine will stall when fully warmed up and verry hard restart or no restart of the engine until cool down.
Few days before i dissesembeled mechanical pump from polo 1.3d it has 7 or 8mm plunger tiny that thin is huge in komparison
How much hp difference
Did you have to make any changes in VCDS?
Nope
Fuel pump 052 9mm?
052 how mm pump?
Well did the swap work out?
Yep! Its still running
How well? The 10vs11mm ramps are different
@@motorbros7078you did this with the pump still on the car and not on a bench ? I was under the impression internal parts would fall out of place if that head was removed while it was laying sideways on the car.
Where can you order the 11mm parts to convert a 10mm pump?
ali express works. Got my 6/11 mm unit for my bmw 2.5TD from there at least is new, not sone questionable part from old pump . Works fine
Good jop
i think the 2 springs are different also
on the vane
What are the benefits of this swap
More fuel because of the bigger pump element and more power
Hi. 052 how mm pump is?
Yes
?
Cam plate, return springs, delivery valves …
عندي بم ضعيف جدا
وبي صوت كولش
Indian Kotkapura Punjabi india pump repair Kotkapura Punjabi mico Bosch repair 0091====