I wouldn't mind a video comparing the differences in racing line between a GT/sports car and a lightweight formula spec/open wheeler. Particularly apt considering the release of the Mercedes F1 car in iRacing this week! 🏎
Thank you guys. The breaking on ACC is a problem for me, because i never knew the numbers on the screen, if I adding was softening or stiffing the suspension. This video saved me alot!!! Have a good new year to all of you guys, and thanks for this videos!!!
Thanks for letting us know. Im doing that same thing with the McLaren and Lamborghinis I was confused and thought stiffer thanks once again for letting me know
I don't normally play ACC, but a league I was interested in uses it exclusively, so I gave it a shot. I must say, at least on the M2 I've driven, the tires under braking feel incredibly dead. It doesn't feel like I can use brake modulation to steer the car at all, and while trying to do so I cant really feel the front tire contact patch move at all. The steering doesn't seem to change properly under weight transfer. Is there some setting I can change somewhere to help with this? I;m using a t300rs. My feel for turn in is greatly dependent on how I control brake release and I'm getting very little back from ACC. I was using ABS on 1 I believe. the M2 CS racing doesn't have adjustable brake bias.
was gonna say the same thing! 'Make it softer" *stiffens the living eff out of the suspension on the screen* The editing is a bit bad. Sometimes he's giving advice on how to do something and it's being demonstrated pretty badly on screen.
I feel as I'm a solid driver, good clipping, apex, smooth turning, good flow. My problem is that it seems that I brake too early but at the same time I feel that I brake as late as possible as hard as I can. Like in a race I'll brake super hard late and I get rear ended. Not sure what I can improve? Logitech g920 wheel and pedals.
As far as I can suggest, try using some kind of markers on every turn and try to brake 70% at that point (if you can) you can adjust the point as you like, first practice with a far away marker and try braking and turning if it works and you think you can afford a nearer marker point to the turn try that don't use the brake 100% at first to make things smooth, sometimes the track has markers and sometimes they don't if it doesn't have marked points use some hint points like cones or posters along the track or anything which is stable and doesn't move. After some time you'll gain very good braking control. I am no expert but it worked for me😊
Acc is the reason why I had to remove my pedal conical braking mod (T3PA) . For few laps it was okay but fully stomping on it for the whole race duration can get exhausting very quick, plus my foot started to hurt.
No, that is definitely slower. especially if the ABS is constantly intervening. I can assure you that. If you watch ALL the fast guys they can brake 100% and the abs flashes once or twice (mostly during downshifts) That is either a perfect setup for their driving style or a perfectly setup pedal. Im having serious trouble with abs intervening in ACC and I apply about 60% brake and it starts to kick in, I have to brake about 25m before ANYONE in online races just to make the corner, I think is a problem with my pedals
SIMPLE ANSWER: Practice. Watching videos about skills you need to develop is like going to a "get rich seminar" and expecting to get rich. Just by practicing I save 5 secs off my time and 3 seconds off my pace in a few days.
Unless you are doing it wrong, in that case you just make it harder to break bad habits. "just practice more" is probably the worst advice you can get. I call bs on gaining 5sec. in a couple days of practice.
@@Stroker-Z28 I was referring to practicing the technique. I made sure to display my braking and power, I paid attention to win TC and ABS kicked in and worked on that intensively. I don’t need to prove anything to you. Huge improvement of time is when I first started the approach so there was a lot of time to lose. The biggest thing I do is try to run each lap as close as possible. As I become more consistent I improve my times. So there is very little difference between my fastest lap and my fastest consistent lap. This works for me, maybe not for others.
@@pikestance4219 Honestly yes practice is the key but some people might hear tips left and right thatll actually make them kick bad habits. i know people thatll 100% kick it into full abs everywhere and trurt me getting them to stop is damn hard..
Nice video! What should I do if my rear keeps stepping out when I try to trail brake? I find it easy to spin after a long straight heading into a slow corner. Should I brake earlier so that the speed drops more gradually and the front rear weight balance is stable?
there are multiple reasons why this can happen, so you would need to look into how different setup changes can affect this issue. Depending on the engine position, it can already lead to heavy weight transfer unde braking, leading into the car having too little weight on the rear tyres which results in them being overloaded by the lateral cornering and longitudinal braking forces. does this also happen when trail braking at slightly less speed? You can't mount the engine differently but you can change brake bias towards the front incase the braking force on the rears overwhelms them. if it hasn't got anything to do with the braking force then you'd have to look at differential, arb and suspension settings. The preload of the differential influences both on power corner exit but also going off throttle for cornering. If the diff opens too early, then it can lead to a bit oversteer. This happens when turning in, not slightly after so if your oversteer happens after already turning a little bit, then its not the diff. Similarly, the front arb could lead to the car being too strong with direction changes. making the front arb stronger leads to slightly more understeer on turn in. The rear arb can have the exact opposite effect, if the rear arb is too stiff, then it can have problems loading up the outside tyres especially after hard braking. softening the rear arb leads to a bit more understeer during such corners but leads ultimately to more understeer in every type of corner finally you have the suspension setting. similarly here. stiff suspension in the back can make the car load up the tyres wrongly. softer is often the soluton to such oversteer but can lead to issues with acceleration. espeically with high rear height can lead to the car rolling around in corners i have the same issue in the bentley after ACC 1.8 and what i do is -2 on rear suspension, +1 on rear arb to counter the understeer in certain corners and -1 on pre load diff to allow more rotation at the start of the corner as mid corner the lower suspension leads to more stable car. the depending on track, change wing and rear ride height. check everything seperatly and find what works for you. i hope this helps a bit
I just turned off the ideal braking line, and it takes awhile to learn the track. Any chance you can do a video for new sim racers adapting without the ideal line? Love your content! Thanks
time is a key element of getting faster, but one thing i like to do is split my practice sessions up (Do a bunch of laps until i have a basic memory of the corners, then watch a detailed breakdown of the track) and repeat. hope that helps
@@Schmitty4564 also start with easier tracks - oddly enough spa has the most obvious braking references at each corner, whereas somewhere like zandvoort might be a little harder
Great video, thanks! Could you explain why i should keep the abs on 4-5 instead the max while tweaking the tire pressure and brake bias etc? I've just started and i noticed a huuge difference between low and high abs, without the need to tweak other settings
What is the buzz or whistle sound when taking turns going in or out of turn to in ACC game on PS4/PS5?? Help would be greatly appreciated have asked all sim tubers and no answer so far and it’s not my wheel I just got new dd pro set up
How do you get more horse power out of a car? Especially the BMW M4 GT3 at Kylami, it’s slow even though I’m coming out of turns same speed as the record breaker on UTube video. The Map is set on 1
I enjoyed this Jardier but I remember in a video you made a long time ago you said some people say you should use the throttle and the brake at the same time why? But now you seem to have come over to that point of view?
Played my first race in career (zolder) qualification 4th and worked my up for place 1st and went back to 4th after pitstop. All fine but then its like 4-5min left of the race my car doesn't want to brake like normal, the car just flow right out in the gras, corner after corner!? I looked at the wheel/brake icon and the brakes was green! Did I worn out the brakes or something? Unplayable suddenly and destroyed the race totaly. From 1st to dead last
is there any gamepad that possible to release the brake slowly? im currently using gulikit pro controller and it cannot do a small gas or brake with the trigger.
I will never agree to braking all the way to the floor when 100% brake means just before lockup. You should not be using actual 100% of the brakes lol like threshold braking it's 100% of the brake meaning the brake availed before lockup. You should not be relying on abs to kick in you should be trying to brake and getting it to kick in as little as possible which in turn teaches you not to lock up. I'm sure now 2 years later you know not to push it to the floor now. Also no jarider acc doesnt allow you to be to aggresive on brskes this is why you had such horrible tires so fast lol. That means it doesnt allow you to haha even if at the moment you got away with ir for a short time in a race.
I'm quite late on this lovely video, and I'm just back to acc after few months in others sims so I have a question, if anyone can help me: Why am I getting faster times by coasting for a fraction of seconds between breaking and throttling out the turn than when I do by braking and hitting the gas straight away or trailbraking? It feels like the car rolls faster without I'm pressing the gas pedal and this just defy logic in my brain... Any word about it anyone?
It might be because the balance of the car isn’t changed so suddenly, so its more stable resulting in better grip. Check Driver61, he talks about that in his video guides.
I can never feel the tyre scrub/slip when cornering in ACC, unlike in AC1 with content manger realistic forces ticked, and my CSW wheel settings tweaked . ACC always feels wrong when cornering. Ican feel the limit of the car better with AC. Also,the car sounds in ACC have to much echo effects and can't be cleaned up with my EQ app. I can't get the engine growl right.
Then that's because either your wheels FFB sucks or you have a bad configuration. ACCs FFB is awesome and I can feel every inch of what is happening to the car. Im using a T248 so if you have the same wheel I can send you my config. And about the engine sounds, they are the most real ones I have ever heard in any simracing game
@@TitoSniberb I think my ffb config sucked. I re-calibrated the settings using AC1 as my baseline then tweaked ACC and also Automobilista 2 to all feel somewhat similar to AC1. I still prefer AC1 ffb when it comes to tyre slides. My wheel is a Fanatec CSW 2.5. Its pretty good as a wheel base and the car forces feel very realistic with AC1 and CM. I have owned ACC for over a year and it just never felt right, the new update seems to have helped make it feel better. I think my biggest mistake was too much gain, which I had maxed and it made the smaller forces and resistances for slips seem weird. The engine sounds still have too much added environmental effects built in, so it seems that it works better with headphones than 5.1 speakers. I can't clean it up with my Gigabyte equalizer app. Same goes for AMS2, which is awesome with headphones, but really crappy with my main speaker system. AC1 is just more easier to use as a tool to simulate in-car immersion, although, not perfect.
@Christopher Bokovics Sure, give it a shot see what you think. SEN = auto FF = 80 DRI = -5 FEI = 70 FOR = 100 SPR = 40 DPR = 120 BLI = 50 BRF = 65 Dynamic ffb : enabled Speed Threshold : 100 kph Speed threshol max : 240 kph Damper effect range : 15` Damper effect strength : 25 ACC game settings Steering scale is set at 140 driving a lambo Gain = 82 Min Force = 8 Damper = 100 Dynamic Damping = 110 Road effects = 100 Frequency = 400hz Steering lock 200` Steer linearity 1.10 Brake gamma 1.43
I almost give up on acc, despite the fact I bought all dlc content. Literally I’ve spent. 30 hours in spa trying to beat 2:23 but I just can’t. I tried AMS2 and with the amg gt3 I do. 2:17.9 fastest and average is mid 2:18.
At 3.45 ABS is at 3/12, you stomp on the brakes (BB:52.0) and I dont see ANY abs intervention. With my fanatec Load Cell pedals as soon as I brake to 60-70% my ABS is flashing BAAAD, killing my braking distance and clearly destroying my laptimes. I just ordered the USB adapter because this problem is killing my experience with sim racing and my next option is to update drivers or something... Im willing to subscribe (I never subscribe to channels) and give some financial support for some help here. Thanks
That's not a hardware problem...if you are getting ABS when brakes are at 60% in the game then you will get ABS in the same situation at 60% braking with any input device.
@@stukaracing Most of the time, in my case there was a hardware problem which has been fixed by deep cleaning the pedals and calibrating carefully off game and also in-game. It made a huge difference, Im talking about in some places 2 seconds per lap. But now I want to upgrade to Fanatec pedals with those hall sensors
Jardier is great. Love his positivity
Same:D
Love the timing of these videos. One of the best in the business putting out videos just as I get back into sim racing. Cheers Jards and OverTake_gg!
Thank you! We're happy to hit the right spot! 😊
Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us @Jardier
Liked and Subscribed (Hi from Fatal and Foton)! Thank you Jaroslav. You're doing a great job.
Nice video! Could you possibly do a video of you driving with the ideal racing line turned on for us beginners to see the difference?
This is the hardest thing for me to try to learn to get better on it,but thanks alot for the tips. 👍
Same here. I think the braking is one of the hardest thing in racing.
I wouldn't mind a video comparing the differences in racing line between a GT/sports car and a lightweight formula spec/open wheeler. Particularly apt considering the release of the Mercedes F1 car in iRacing this week! 🏎
Thank you guys. The breaking on ACC is a problem for me, because i never knew the numbers on the screen, if I adding was softening or stiffing the suspension. This video saved me alot!!!
Have a good new year to all of you guys, and thanks for this videos!!!
love jardier ! ,
wow 1:16 the subscribe button had an effect ! wtf
Thanks for letting us know. Im doing that same thing with the McLaren and Lamborghinis I was confused and thought stiffer thanks once again for letting me know
Thank you for the setting my braking is much better now 👍
Love the 720 it's the car I handle the best in ACC
Great video, very informative.
Subscribed
Awesome, thank you!
Have a shot everytime he’s says assetocowsacompetisonae lul
I don't normally play ACC, but a league I was interested in uses it exclusively, so I gave it a shot. I must say, at least on the M2 I've driven, the tires under braking feel incredibly dead. It doesn't feel like I can use brake modulation to steer the car at all, and while trying to do so I cant really feel the front tire contact patch move at all. The steering doesn't seem to change properly under weight transfer.
Is there some setting I can change somewhere to help with this? I;m using a t300rs. My feel for turn in is greatly dependent on how I control brake release and I'm getting very little back from ACC. I was using ABS on 1 I believe. the M2 CS racing doesn't have adjustable brake bias.
I’m new to ACC and your videos are excellent 💯🙏
at 1:36 you say you've made your setups softer, but all the settings being changed on screen are making everything stiffer aren't they?
was gonna say the same thing! 'Make it softer" *stiffens the living eff out of the suspension on the screen* The editing is a bit bad. Sometimes he's giving advice on how to do something and it's being demonstrated pretty badly on screen.
I feel as I'm a solid driver, good clipping, apex, smooth turning, good flow. My problem is that it seems that I brake too early but at the same time I feel that I brake as late as possible as hard as I can. Like in a race I'll brake super hard late and I get rear ended. Not sure what I can improve? Logitech g920 wheel and pedals.
As far as I can suggest, try using some kind of markers on every turn and try to brake 70% at that point (if you can) you can adjust the point as you like, first practice with a far away marker and try braking and turning if it works and you think you can afford a nearer marker point to the turn try that don't use the brake 100% at first to make things smooth, sometimes the track has markers and sometimes they don't if it doesn't have marked points use some hint points like cones or posters along the track or anything which is stable and doesn't move. After some time you'll gain very good braking control. I am no expert but it worked for me😊
i think you broke the world record for how quickly you say assetto corsa competizione
Thanks for the tips! You made me beat my 10 year old
Love this channel.
Acc is the reason why I had to remove my pedal conical braking mod (T3PA) . For few laps it was okay but fully stomping on it for the whole race duration can get exhausting very quick, plus my foot started to hurt.
You could recalibrate your pedals so you don't have to push so hard.
@@axelode45 yes, he can just put a Maximum input in the settings screen in controls, for example I had to use 80% with a G29 pedal
@@szabolcstorok5856 yes
without it, T3PA is complete garbage, just put it back and calibrate as the others say
@@damiendegrasse is it? do you wear shoes when driving? because it feels way too heavy for me, i dont wear shoes
I really didn't know I could just stomp the brakes and let the Abs work. To me hearing the ABS working was equal to being slower.
No, that is definitely slower. especially if the ABS is constantly intervening. I can assure you that. If you watch ALL the fast guys they can brake 100% and the abs flashes once or twice (mostly during downshifts) That is either a perfect setup for their driving style or a perfectly setup pedal. Im having serious trouble with abs intervening in ACC and I apply about 60% brake and it starts to kick in, I have to brake about 25m before ANYONE in online races just to make the corner, I think is a problem with my pedals
SIMPLE ANSWER: Practice. Watching videos about skills you need to develop is like going to a "get rich seminar" and expecting to get rich. Just by practicing I save 5 secs off my time and 3 seconds off my pace in a few days.
I fully agree with you bro
It’s better to practice and try other people’s tips. You can practice and watch videos
Unless you are doing it wrong, in that case you just make it harder to break bad habits. "just practice more" is probably the worst advice you can get. I call bs on gaining 5sec. in a couple days of practice.
@@Stroker-Z28 I was referring to practicing the technique. I made sure to display my braking and power, I paid attention to win TC and ABS kicked in and worked on that intensively.
I don’t need to prove anything to you. Huge improvement of time is when I first started the approach so there was a lot of time to lose. The biggest thing I do is try to run each lap as close as possible. As I become more consistent I improve my times. So there is very little difference between my fastest lap and my fastest consistent lap. This works for me, maybe not for others.
@@pikestance4219 Honestly yes practice is the key but some people might hear tips left and right thatll actually make them kick bad habits.
i know people thatll 100% kick it into full abs everywhere and trurt me getting them to stop is damn hard..
Thanks Jards 👍
Can you make a tutorial to how to setup the Ferrari 296 on some tracks? Maybe Bathurst. Thank you
Nice video!
What should I do if my rear keeps stepping out when I try to trail brake?
I find it easy to spin after a long straight heading into a slow corner.
Should I brake earlier so that the speed drops more gradually and the front rear weight balance is stable?
either put more front brake bias or try t ocontrol your rear with a little bit of throttle :)
@@Jardier Or stiffer front ARB?
there are multiple reasons why this can happen, so you would need to look into how different setup changes can affect this issue. Depending on the engine position, it can already lead to heavy weight transfer unde braking, leading into the car having too little weight on the rear tyres which results in them being overloaded by the lateral cornering and longitudinal braking forces. does this also happen when trail braking at slightly less speed? You can't mount the engine differently but you can change brake bias towards the front incase the braking force on the rears overwhelms them.
if it hasn't got anything to do with the braking force then you'd have to look at differential, arb and suspension settings. The preload of the differential influences both on power corner exit but also going off throttle for cornering. If the diff opens too early, then it can lead to a bit oversteer. This happens when turning in, not slightly after so if your oversteer happens after already turning a little bit, then its not the diff.
Similarly, the front arb could lead to the car being too strong with direction changes. making the front arb stronger leads to slightly more understeer on turn in. The rear arb can have the exact opposite effect, if the rear arb is too stiff, then it can have problems loading up the outside tyres especially after hard braking. softening the rear arb leads to a bit more understeer during such corners but leads ultimately to more understeer in every type of corner
finally you have the suspension setting. similarly here. stiff suspension in the back can make the car load up the tyres wrongly. softer is often the soluton to such oversteer but can lead to issues with acceleration. espeically with high rear height can lead to the car rolling around in corners
i have the same issue in the bentley after ACC 1.8 and what i do is -2 on rear suspension, +1 on rear arb to counter the understeer in certain corners and -1 on pre load diff to allow more rotation at the start of the corner as mid corner the lower suspension leads to more stable car. the depending on track, change wing and rear ride height.
check everything seperatly and find what works for you. i hope this helps a bit
oh wow this video was a game changer.. I brake hard before the turns and have my settings total opposite of what your reccomending here.
Nice backing music.
Will they make career mode better?
Yess! I was waiting for this for so long!
4:52 How u can set camera replay like this?
I just turned off the ideal braking line, and it takes awhile to learn the track. Any chance you can do a video for new sim racers adapting without the ideal line? Love your content! Thanks
This might sound odd but for some corners you can use your revs as a reference
time is a key element of getting faster, but one thing i like to do is split my practice sessions up (Do a bunch of laps until i have a basic memory of the corners, then watch a detailed breakdown of the track) and repeat. hope that helps
@@Doom_Head621 yes that does help thanks! I've started doing just that. Run a bunch of laps and familiarize myself with each track
@@Schmitty4564 also start with easier tracks - oddly enough spa has the most obvious braking references at each corner, whereas somewhere like zandvoort might be a little harder
@@gautamkrishna7421 awesome! Thank you!
Great video, thanks! Could you explain why i should keep the abs on 4-5 instead the max while tweaking the tire pressure and brake bias etc?
I've just started and i noticed a huuge difference between low and high abs, without the need to tweak other settings
Do other sims like iracing have stability control if so do people have it on or off.
What is the buzz or whistle sound when taking turns going in or out of turn to in ACC game on PS4/PS5?? Help would be greatly appreciated have asked all sim tubers and no answer so far and it’s not my wheel I just got new dd pro set up
Jards only u can destroy ENDURANCE tyres (that can do duble stint easy w great pace) in 20 min lol
How do you get more horse power out of a car? Especially the BMW M4 GT3 at Kylami, it’s slow even though I’m coming out of turns same speed as the record breaker on UTube video. The Map is set on 1
What's the name of that outro music please??
what is the song in intro? :) first seconds
Just explain me please.... when i go up with th n/m of my suspensions i'm getting them softner or harder???? 😅😅.. great driver.. 😂😂
I enjoyed this Jardier but I remember in a video you made a long time ago you said some people say you should use the throttle and the brake at the same time why? But now you seem to have come over to that point of view?
Played my first race in career (zolder) qualification 4th and worked my up for place 1st and went back to 4th after pitstop. All fine but then its like 4-5min left of the race my car doesn't want to brake like normal, the car just flow right out in the gras, corner after corner!? I looked at the wheel/brake icon and the brakes was green! Did I worn out the brakes or something? Unplayable suddenly and destroyed the race totaly. From 1st to dead last
Fells that AMS2 is the only sim that really understood braking
Why?
is there any gamepad that possible to release the brake slowly? im currently using gulikit pro controller and it cannot do a small gas or brake with the trigger.
man i changed to moza r9 and start spining on braking i didnt have this with my t-lcm
Is trail braking as effective in ACC with the GT4 cars?
Yes.gt4 is more road car so yes
Ciao happy new year2022 to all
Exzellent
Why no one never talk about engine brake during downshifting while braking !? Isn’t so important ?
Tnxdude🎉
I will never agree to braking all the way to the floor when 100% brake means just before lockup. You should not be using actual 100% of the brakes lol like threshold braking it's 100% of the brake meaning the brake availed before lockup. You should not be relying on abs to kick in you should be trying to brake and getting it to kick in as little as possible which in turn teaches you not to lock up.
I'm sure now 2 years later you know not to push it to the floor now.
Also no jarider acc doesnt allow you to be to aggresive on brskes this is why you had such horrible tires so fast lol. That means it doesnt allow you to haha even if at the moment you got away with ir for a short time in a race.
I'm quite late on this lovely video, and I'm just back to acc after few months in others sims so I have a question, if anyone can help me:
Why am I getting faster times by coasting for a fraction of seconds between breaking and throttling out the turn than when I do by braking and hitting the gas straight away or trailbraking?
It feels like the car rolls faster without I'm pressing the gas pedal and this just defy logic in my brain... Any word about it anyone?
It might be because the balance of the car isn’t changed so suddenly, so its more stable resulting in better grip.
Check Driver61, he talks about that in his video guides.
I usually run lower on ABS and always feel that I'm not able to brake as late as others, I'll try increasing it a bit next time and see if that helps.
same here pro. Pretty frustrating
perfekt video
I can never feel the tyre scrub/slip when cornering in ACC, unlike in AC1 with content manger realistic forces ticked, and my CSW wheel settings tweaked . ACC always feels wrong when cornering. Ican feel the limit of the car better with AC. Also,the car sounds in ACC have to much echo effects and can't be cleaned up with my EQ app. I can't get the engine growl right.
Then that's because either your wheels FFB sucks or you have a bad configuration. ACCs FFB is awesome and I can feel every inch of what is happening to the car. Im using a T248 so if you have the same wheel I can send you my config. And about the engine sounds, they are the most real ones I have ever heard in any simracing game
@@TitoSniberb I think my ffb config sucked. I re-calibrated the settings using AC1 as my baseline then tweaked ACC and also Automobilista 2 to all feel somewhat similar to AC1. I still prefer AC1 ffb when it comes to tyre slides. My wheel is a Fanatec CSW 2.5. Its pretty good as a wheel base and the car forces feel very realistic with AC1 and CM. I have owned ACC for over a year and it just never felt right, the new update seems to have helped make it feel better. I think my biggest mistake was too much gain, which I had maxed and it made the smaller forces and resistances for slips seem weird.
The engine sounds still have too much added environmental effects built in, so it seems that it works better with headphones than 5.1 speakers. I can't clean it up with my Gigabyte equalizer app. Same goes for AMS2, which is awesome with headphones, but really crappy with my main speaker system. AC1 is just more easier to use as a tool to simulate in-car immersion, although, not perfect.
@Christopher Bokovics Sure, give it a shot see what you think.
SEN = auto
FF = 80
DRI = -5
FEI = 70
FOR = 100
SPR = 40
DPR = 120
BLI = 50
BRF = 65
Dynamic ffb : enabled
Speed Threshold : 100 kph
Speed threshol max : 240 kph
Damper effect range : 15`
Damper effect strength : 25
ACC game settings
Steering scale is set at 140 driving a lambo
Gain = 82
Min Force = 8
Damper = 100
Dynamic Damping = 110
Road effects = 100
Frequency = 400hz
Steering lock 200`
Steer linearity 1.10
Brake gamma 1.43
I almost give up on acc, despite the fact I bought all dlc content. Literally I’ve spent. 30 hours in spa trying to beat 2:23 but I just can’t. I tried AMS2 and with the amg gt3 I do. 2:17.9 fastest and average is mid 2:18.
My pedal now have the problem.
Im late to the party but, hi!
IS THERE ANTWAY TO TALK TO YOU
kids cant even make a turn 1 in monza without crashing now imagine trail braking... lol
I do this with only certain corners
At 3.45 ABS is at 3/12, you stomp on the brakes (BB:52.0) and I dont see ANY abs intervention. With my fanatec Load Cell pedals as soon as I brake to 60-70% my ABS is flashing BAAAD, killing my braking distance and clearly destroying my laptimes. I just ordered the USB adapter because this problem is killing my experience with sim racing and my next option is to update drivers or something... Im willing to subscribe (I never subscribe to channels) and give some financial support for some help here. Thanks
Oh trust me, he had his abs working hard it's just in the replays is not being shown (well known bug)
That's not a hardware problem...if you are getting ABS when brakes are at 60% in the game then you will get ABS in the same situation at 60% braking with any input device.
@@stukaracing Most of the time, in my case there was a hardware problem which has been fixed by deep cleaning the pedals and calibrating carefully off game and also in-game.
It made a huge difference, Im talking about in some places 2 seconds per lap. But now I want to upgrade to Fanatec pedals with those hall sensors
When I read that thumbnail .... I heard that song "This is how we do it" ... ¬_¬ Why???? Now it's stuck in my head 🤮🤮🤮
Oh mate, we're sorry!
Oh my God I thought this was real racing why would I waste my time on games?
Hard to understand you with a lisp