How to Make a Vacuum Bagging System for Fiberglass Repair
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ต.ค. 2024
- This video will show an effective, easy and an inexpensive way to repair a boat deck or create any kind of vacuum pressure for laminating wood projects. This video shows how we did this on the deck of our boat to securely attach the old fiberglass layer that was cut out to replace the core. This applies a great even pressure which is better than bags of sand, concrete blocks or other methods that people use to weigh down the pieces while the epoxy cures.
See the details on the blog post as well at www.svdreamchaser.com. Search for exterior projects or deck repair.
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That's Pretty Cool...
It worked shockingly well for a low budget way to accomplish and expensive process.
@@Svdreamchaser Yes..! It Worked Amazingly Well..!!! You Helped Me Understand the Purpose of Vacuum Bagging/Sealing. I Always Hear About Carbon Fiber, and High Dollar Projects Talking About It. I Was Curious Recently, and Searched It. Your Video Popped Up. What it Does, is It Forces Adhesive Into Every Space That Was Occupied by Air. Gravity Will Pull Adhesives Down, and They May Skip Areas. Vacuum Pulls Out Air, and Pulls in Adhesive. It Makes the Bond, 99.999999%. Nobody's Perfect. 😏
Brainstorm With Me If You Will. So, This Process Works Best From the Opposite Side of Project, Yes? If You Were Covering a Hole, With CSM, or Whatever, and You Were Bringing the Repair Up and to the Surface, with the Glass...You Wouldn't Vacuum That, Because It Would Pull the Glass Away From the Repair, Yes? I'm Guessing It Works Best, When Applying a Solid, Onto a Layer, and Then It Pulls Adhesive, Back Up Through the Solid Repair, and Filling All Spaces.
Whatever the Method, You Did an Amazing Job, and the Video Was Confidence Building, and Informative.
I Thank You for Your Time.
You Made That 'Peanut Butter' With Resin, and Then You Added a Silicone Thickener, Yes? That Silicone Dust, is Toxic. i Wish You Would Have Used a Mask.
I agree about the mask. I am really bad about wearing one and when I do a little bit of work in a day I justify not wearing it but you are 100% right. I should.
@@Svdreamchaser You Be You...!! Great Video...!! That Silicone Thickener...Toxic Stuff. I Would Stand Upwind When Adding That Powder Silicone. My Toes Curled, but You Be You...!!! 🙂
right on bud looks good they use a special adhesive to to put on the new teak nowadays as well they use a vac process as well instead of screwed on seems to work I guess ,better then screw on ,like most of the leaky teaky boats ,if you ever use teak again your process will work fine
Kevin Swanson That makes sense Kevin. I think I love the way teak looks, I don't think I like the maintenance and I don't like the heat on my feet. So it's with a heavy heart I decided to remove the teak and stick with just fiberglass. The downside, is, that these boats just seem to look better with teak.
its plastic tape works good for prepping windows and other things on a house i bin a plaster man for 12 years as well as a certified weldor.i should be looking for a steel boat lol
A couple of suggestions from my time in aerospace composites: You should use a bleeder fabric above the job and a breather blanket over the top of that - this will give you an even pressure and somewhere for the excess resin to bleed out into.
Your green dish is holding the plastic off the deck so you are getting uneven pressure under and around it. The breather will eliminate that issue. Instead of the dish, I would use something like a tank connector to connect the vacuum line to the bag. You can get something like this: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/360976881427 with a mat or a perforated plate under the bag beneath it to spread the load of it.
Rather than the blue tape, you could look at using a butyl strip like this, which will seal much more reliably between the deck and the bag. www.psasolutions.uk.com/product/high-performance-gca-butyl-sealant-tape
Oh, and rather than your shop vac maybe you can look at using a proper vac pump - I wonder if a vacuum brake pump from a truck would work? Or maybe connect to the inlet side of a portable compressor?
+Jerry Jones Great suggestions as always. I will look into some of the supplies you mentioned.
+Jerry Jones The good news is I don't have to do an atmosphere reentry with this ship. Just have to handle some rough seas. LOL
+Jerry Jones +Jerry Jones I have a question for you. If I use one of those blankets under the plastic to absorb any excess resin, how hard is it then to remove that from the surface. Does it not adhere to the surface that I would've just put down?
That is why you use a bleeder fabric between the deck and the breather. It's a nylon cloth treated with a release agent and just tears away from the surface, leaving a fabric pattern.
Even better is if you put a layer of peel ply in contact with the work, which you tear off when required, leaving a surface ready for bonding with no need for abrasion or degreasing.
This is how they do it in a composites shop, which is of course overkill for you: netcomposites.com/guide-tools/guide/repair/vacuum-bagging/
Nice! Just FYI, some vacs use the air flowing through it to cool the motor. Plugging the end (like you are doing) can burn some of them out. I think any of the "wet/dry" ones have a separate way of cooling - but I could be wrong.
GeorgeGraves ooh, didn't even think of that. I will have to see how this Fein does that.
@@Svdreamchaser Yep, you need the right vac. One with separate cooling, normally they are the spendy ones, Festool etc.
I definately complement your search for perfection. I will add a few points having built boats and repaired wood and fiberglass using West and other products for over 40 years. Very smart wetting out the surface prior to adding the thickened epoxy. Most people forget that step. When you place the thickened epoxy on the deck spot, be sure to trowel the groves in one direction without overlapping. That simple technique will help prevent the creation of air bubbles or glue voids. Also, did you wet out the underside of the replacement piece? I would wet out the replacement piece and place without adding thickened epoxy. There is no need to add to both sides if you properly wet out the replacement piece. I'm not a big fan of the whole vacuum cleaner part. Simple pressure on top with weight or Raptor staples(which are the greatest invention for boat building since West) is sufficient. Remember, you are doing the repair using liquid joinery; simple pressure will spread the glue lines. That's why it is important to pay attention to your trowel lines. Having said that, I would never criticize home inventions that work. Keep up the great work, I enjoyed your video. Tony
Thank you so much for the guidance and suggestions. I suspect others will also benefit from them here as well. Good to know of the vacuum bagging vs simple pressure as I didn’t know that.
@@Svdreamchaser I can only imagine the labor involved in repairing a vessel of that size. Your fans should see that having a labor of love, like I do, for these repairs, will melt away the pain and suffering of the actual labor. Great chatting and merry Christmas. Tony
Thanks To y. Great tips and I will have to research those staples you mentioned.
Great video. Vacuum is great way to apply a lot of force during curing. Better than any clamping system could do. What you want is to squeeze out any excess resin, because more resin than just what's needed to fill the void doesn't make it any stronger, weaker in fact. But for the resin to squeeze out it needs somewhere to go. Just like around the end of the vacuum hose and into gaps between pieces of the deck. But once the gap is filled, it doesn't have anywhere to go. So you should add some spacing material between the plastic and the deck. I'd probably put an old piece of rope along the seam as a sacrificial voiding material. Also that should help the vacuum spread.
Paul great idea. Thanks
another thing you can do is make the bag oversized, tape it down at the size you want it. your bag will be baggy. when you turn your vacuum on it will create pleats. if you have good vacuum, the pleats will be right to the surface. loose pleats in an area means you have a leak in the bag in that area. It makes it easier to localize where the leak is
Quad Se7en thanks, that's a great tip I didn't even think about that. It makes perfect sense and I almost feel silly trying to get all the wrinkles out as I was taping it down. LOL
Do you watch Boat Works Today? That guy is doing this job right now and really seems to have some great tips.
I do watch him. He has great stuff and has been helpful to me as well. We have both commented that we are embarking on these jobs almost in parallel. He may end up beating me in the end with a climate controlled shop :)
your right and the way the Asian people put in the carvings on the doors is so classic plus they were not cheap with the amount of glass they put in the hills,but I hate wood coring kind of like the idea of plastic coring plus no rot and it's waterproof
Kevin Swanson the carvings are phenomenal. I heard once there were a couple of families that did those near the ship yard and the carvings determined the family that did it. We have all the sailboat carvings.
I would use teak again ,I Will use your technic ant abrasive the big builders use ,I will build it off deck and put them on as whole sections with the proper caulking .I will keep an eye on the caulking when it gets cracking and replace as needed I got an idea of making a tool to make it easy as well I will be using a teak treatment as needed I am sure to have no problem for years to come ,I just like the teak to be on my boat ,thanks for the great vids bud
The bagging worked much better than I originally thought it would
Do you have several sections that need repair like that? The crawfish platter is great idea.
bubba my decks along the side of the coachhouse likely need to be fixed but I am not sure if it will be like this or new glass there. If I c an do it this way I will. The deciding factor will be if there is a good edge to bond to or if the soft deck goes right up to the coachhouse wall. I won't know until I rip it out.
nice video , but you broke many of the rules for vag bagging, any idea of vac pressure you got id say very little, and poor vac machine my heart goes out to it, still it seemed to work so good on you,r
Rik Warner I may have just lucked out Rik but it did seem to work really well.
I’m planning on doing exactly this. I’ve read shop vac will pull about 3 psi. That’s pretty good. Car batteries for comparison would give you about .75psi. Total vacuum, if you have a pricey pump is 16psi.
It is still working good after almost 3 years.
I'm amazed that us backyard ers can do same as big outfits with with expensive equipment,I bin looking at an endurance 35 built by the dekleer brother what do you think of
Kevin Swanson I will have to look it up, I am not familiar with that make
exactly what i was looking for. thanks...NICE.
+William Hoskins I am glad you found it helpful. More good stuff to come.
here's a like for you from Clear Lake
bryan furr thanks Bryan. We were there for a while, I still consider that my home waters . We had our boat at Legend Point, Waterford, Watergate and even the boardwalk at one point in time
SVDreamChaser I lived it Watergate one time years ago. now I have one of my boats at South Shore Harbor and the other at Clear Lake Marina.Are you still in Louisiana?
With plans from stodoys you can make it really easy.
Creek Tilghman Stodoys doesn’t have plans for boat decks, do they?
Thanks a lot!
Nice bag, thumbs up..
Thank you. Not bad for a trial and experiment, but years later and it worked great.
stucco tape will work better then paper tape less sucsion loss
Kevin Swanson I think with this job even if there was a little bit of loss of air through the tape, the speed at which it cures didn't seem to affect it.
dekleer bros also made frazer 30 41 and 53 i believe