When removing the injector bolts warm up the engine properly. Like how you want motor hot to change oil filter, spark plugs, you want the engine heat to help remove the injector bolts. Instead of bad looking duct tape to help direct water away from the injectors, order the factory rubber pieces used on later model F types from the factory. Look and work much better. Plus OEM fit and function.
Adding the deflectors will help, though corrosion between the head squeezing around the injectors is probably why these fail like other similar ones exposed to atmosphere. I definitely recommend spraying the shit out of it with ACF50 with a HVLP paint gun.
Hi Louis. Found your vid by accident….very interesting as this was the same reason I sold my Ftype. Discovering the amount of corrosion lower down scared the hell out of me as a long term car. Gutted as it was a dream car. I’ll put a vid with pics out when I get a mo. Mine had pooling on top of where gearbox meets block. Wiring harnesses was underwater. The design was clearly flawed and unacceptable in this day and age. DIY hell when out of warranty. Mine went back to dealer 😢
Louis, I also don’t like the water ingress, but I have the luxury of garage parking. I have removed the engine cover many 1000’s of miles ago… no regrets, and I also pop the hood open when returning from a drive and parking in the garage. This helps remove engine heat. I am hoping to avoid bad injectors with high quality fuel and occasional 2 hour drives. Good Luck in 2024
@@louismochine4756 The lack of engine cover had no impact on engine noise, but a positive effect on under hood heat rejection and weight reduction. A win-win-win
I think the rubber covers are to quieten the valve gear given they are an expanded foam not as water shields of which they do the exact opposite. I just sealed the bonnet vents on mine.
Cheers Louis, always good to put this type of video up. Perhaps that's why the air vents were moved further down the bonnet on the newer models (well my 15 plate has them further down) & the V8's with rubber overlays. My only thought now is that by putting the tape on, the water is going to now go where? Better to prevent water getting in, in the first place. Looking at the corrosion, that's ally for you! just being in a wet environment you won't stop this, unless the whole car is dry stored. Hope ye both well!
The Awd drive versions have the vents moved due to fitting the front drive train and I'm not surprised they updated the front end on the newer f type's if just for the bonnet alignment alone. What's strange though is the Xkr had a similar design with much better alignment and less water issues.
Nice informative video. How Jaguar didn’t solve this with a simple redesign of the engine cover is beyond comprehension. Basically they just stuck there heads in the sand. On the point of the heat exiting through the vents - later cars got a redesigned bonnet vent with almost no air holes, so the need for heat venting is negligible. The best fix is to use EPDM roofing sheet which can be moulded and bonded to the underside of the engine cover. The result is a pretty professional looking job which creates a proper rain cover for the exposed areas. Let me know if you want me to send you some pictures.
My F-Type didn't come with an engine cover. But, thank for pointing this out. I do plan on buying an engine to use a template for making a carbon fibre cover. Knowing this, I can address it in my design
my 2018 rwd p380 has had two lots of injector failures in 6 months, thank god for extended warranty. but debating to sell as its been at JRL services centres for a substancial of my ownership. just cant find a suitable car to replace it
I lost number 4 injector on my v6s and it cost me thousands to get it sorted due to it being corroded in place and a bugger to remove. Once I had it back I took to taking my cheap rubber boot mat out and putting it over the engine whenever it wasn't in use.
@@user-xi2gb1fb6i . Hi. If you do I strongly recommend that you keep the Jaguar warranty going. First F Type I was sold , the diff had gone. That was on 18500miles. Went back after 2 days. Second F Type :- O2 sensors replaced twice. 2nd occasion they stripped the thread on removal resulting in a new catalytic converter.(3k ) .Not uncommon apparently. Tensioner on supercharger replaced, then whole supercharger replaced. Issues with the telematics,continuous texts saying car had been stolen. And currently now the upholstery has decided to come away from the seat backing. This was covered on the extended warranty fortunately. It was just over £900 . I didn’t extend the warranty this year so I’ve got everything crossed. Mines Sept 2018 with 24k on the clock. Having said all of this it’s a gorgeous car and I do love it. My friend has a 2014 plate and had no issues. No car brand is perfect in my opinion. Take your time, proper test drive, include reversing and hard turning. If you hear a knocking then the differential has gone. Best wishes 👍🙂
My tupance as a 2017 v6 Awd se coupe owner; keep it garaged, regularly check coolant level, every six months or so use injector cleaner as known to clog up with poor Q fuel, replace diff oil every 2 years not 3, obviously regular maintenance using 0w20 oil (very sensitive to oil weight) and every couple of years have an oil sample test for peace of mind. No issues in 6 / 7 (cricky) years of ownership other than initial delivery cosmetic QC issues fixed in yr 1. I have no inclination to sell. Peoples expectations for QC, reliability and running cost needs to be realistic when dealing with a super model
Design a car and drive it for five years so you can make fixes for all the stupid engineering you built in. Either that or buy your engines from Toyota or Honda. They seem to have things figured out.
![[Watch Party] APL 2024 รอบ 8 ทีมสุดท้าย ไทยต้องแชมป์ !](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/NctOkvaex-Y/mqdefault.jpg)
When removing the injector bolts warm up the engine properly. Like how you want motor hot to change oil filter, spark plugs, you want the engine heat to help remove the injector bolts.
Instead of bad looking duct tape to help direct water away from the injectors, order the factory rubber pieces used on later model F types from the factory. Look and work much better. Plus OEM fit and function.
Driving my one only in dry weather conditions. Rest of the year it‘s lurking for prey in my garage. 😁
I made some covers for the vents whilst it’s parked up, no water ingress at all👍
Adding the deflectors will help, though corrosion between the head squeezing around the injectors is probably why these fail like other similar ones exposed to atmosphere. I definitely recommend spraying the shit out of it with ACF50 with a HVLP paint gun.
Hi Louis. Found your vid by accident….very interesting as this was the same reason I sold my Ftype. Discovering the amount of corrosion lower down scared the hell out of me as a long term car. Gutted as it was a dream car. I’ll put a vid with pics out when I get a mo. Mine had pooling on top of where gearbox meets block. Wiring harnesses was underwater. The design was clearly flawed and unacceptable in this day and age. DIY hell when out of warranty. Mine went back to dealer 😢
Louis, I also don’t like the water ingress, but I have the luxury of garage parking. I have removed the engine cover many 1000’s of miles ago… no regrets, and I also pop the hood open when returning from a drive and parking in the garage. This helps remove engine heat. I am hoping to avoid bad injectors with high quality fuel and occasional 2 hour drives. Good Luck in 2024
Does the engine cover removed make more engine noise in the cabin? I suppose changing the fuel filter early would be a good preventative measure.
@@louismochine4756 The lack of engine cover had no impact on engine noise, but a positive effect on under hood heat rejection and weight reduction. A win-win-win
I think the rubber covers are to quieten the valve gear given they are an expanded foam not as water shields of which they do the exact opposite. I just sealed the bonnet vents on mine.
Brilliant TH-cam thanks
Cheers Louis, always good to put this type of video up. Perhaps that's why the air vents were moved further down the bonnet on the newer models (well my 15 plate has them further down) & the V8's with rubber overlays. My only thought now is that by putting the tape on, the water is going to now go where? Better to prevent water getting in, in the first place. Looking at the corrosion, that's ally for you! just being in a wet environment you won't stop this, unless the whole car is dry stored. Hope ye both well!
The Awd drive versions have the vents moved due to fitting the front drive train and I'm not surprised they updated the front end on the newer f type's if just for the bonnet alignment alone. What's strange though is the Xkr had a similar design with much better alignment and less water issues.
Nice informative video. How Jaguar didn’t solve this with a simple redesign of the engine cover is beyond comprehension. Basically they just stuck there heads in the sand. On the point of the heat exiting through the vents - later cars got a redesigned bonnet vent with almost no air holes, so the need for heat venting is negligible. The best fix is to use EPDM roofing sheet which can be moulded and bonded to the underside of the engine cover. The result is a pretty professional looking job which creates a proper rain cover for the exposed areas. Let me know if you want me to send you some pictures.
@@TIMSANDYSURF Thanks for the info I'll try this next
@@TIMSANDYSURFgreat idea Tim, thx for putting it up, I'm sure it will benefit many!
My F-Type didn't come with an engine cover. But, thank for pointing this out.
I do plan on buying an engine to use a template for making a carbon fibre cover.
Knowing this, I can address it in my design
Sounds like a good product the Jag version is extortionate
@@louismochine4756 How has development of the engine cover been going? Would be interested to see it and how much it costs.
my 2018 rwd p380 has had two lots of injector failures in 6 months, thank god for extended warranty. but debating to sell as its been at JRL services centres for a substancial of my ownership. just cant find a suitable car to replace it
I lost number 4 injector on my v6s and it cost me thousands to get it sorted due to it being corroded in place and a bugger to remove. Once I had it back I took to taking my cheap rubber boot mat out and putting it over the engine whenever it wasn't in use.
What age / mileage did that happen?
@@louismochine4756 7 years and 42000 miles
?
Use the alum.tape,because of the heat,just in case.
Mine has rubber flaps over that gap. I think my hood is different as well. I have a '16 R. Did they change it between '15 and '16?
Sounds like you have the AWD version
Mine’s AWD so the vents are further apart so fortunately I don’t have this problem. Lots of other problems just not this one !
Lol "lots of other problems"
What other problems you having with your Jag? Thinking of getting one...
@@user-xi2gb1fb6i . Hi. If you do I strongly recommend that you keep the Jaguar warranty going. First F Type I was sold , the diff had gone. That was on 18500miles. Went back after 2 days. Second F Type :-
O2 sensors replaced twice. 2nd occasion they stripped the thread on removal resulting in a new catalytic converter.(3k ) .Not uncommon apparently. Tensioner on supercharger replaced, then whole supercharger replaced. Issues with the telematics,continuous texts saying car had been stolen. And currently now the upholstery has decided to come away from the seat backing. This was covered on the extended warranty fortunately. It was just over £900 . I didn’t extend the warranty this year so I’ve got everything crossed. Mines Sept 2018 with 24k on the clock. Having said all of this it’s a gorgeous car and I do love it. My friend has a 2014 plate and had no issues. No car brand is perfect in my opinion. Take your time, proper test drive, include reversing and hard turning. If you hear a knocking then the differential has gone. Best wishes 👍🙂
@mikeymikeFTypeV6 many thanks, yeah will take my time do the homework cheers
My tupance as a 2017 v6 Awd se coupe owner; keep it garaged, regularly check coolant level, every six months or so use injector cleaner as known to clog up with poor Q fuel, replace diff oil every 2 years not 3, obviously regular maintenance using 0w20 oil (very sensitive to oil weight) and every couple of years have an oil sample test for peace of mind. No issues in 6 / 7 (cricky) years of ownership other than initial delivery cosmetic QC issues fixed in yr 1.
I have no inclination to sell.
Peoples expectations for QC, reliability and running cost needs to be realistic when dealing with a super model
3 injectors needed on a 4 year old F380 with 5400 miles £3.5k
Any idea why they were needed?
@@louismochine4756 WATER DAMAGE
Ive done these injectors there a absolute pig as for negligence i pre warn the customers its on there back if they want to proceed
Someone on TH-cam recently did the job, looks like they get very stuck
Get a car cover or garage .
Ins cos are writing cars off like there's mo tomorrow. most of them are flood damaged 😊
Nice looking car and great design. But as all british cars rubbish! For that money you pay, you buying a lot of PAIN.
Design a car and drive it for five years so you can make fixes for all the stupid engineering you built in. Either that or buy your engines from Toyota or Honda. They seem to have things figured out.