Hilltop Workshop | Subwoofer teardown and compare. B&W PV1, Velodyne SPL10, and a couple of ferals.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 31 ก.ค. 2024
- A quick look inside 4 sub-woofers of different price points and quality. Comparing the differences in build quality and components.
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i've always wanted to see the inside of one of those b&w subs. thanks for sharing.
Do they make good sub m trying to get the asw600
Yes
Same
Thanks for the video. I have a PV-1 that died and rather than dispose it, had it rewired as an passive speaker that I power via a dedicated class D subwoofer amp. Works beautifully.
That's a great idea. I'm doing the same with an old Velodyne in my workshop. 👍
oh sick teardown. I loved the PV1 teardown. always thought Hypex amplifiers was powering it.
Short comment:
Great video to show what the insides of commercial subs look like. I had some bad experiences using plate amps from Parts Express 20+ years ago.
Long comment:
Whenever I build a new subwoofer project I use Crown XLS amps with a line driver like the Rolls MB15B or their subwoofer specific crossover the SX95 because I always use home theater receivers which have low output on the LFE channel.
I still use my original XLS2000 my wife got me like 8 years ago. I have had the XLS2000 running (2) 12" Infinity Reference 1262W. Each 12 has its only 4.6 cubic foot down firing down vented enclosure tuned to 21 hz.
Currently using the Denon H760 receiver Costco special: LFE channel out to the Rolls MB15B to convert to XLR and raise the voltage so the Crown gain can be left at half.
Without the Rolls MB15B the Crown XLS2000 struggled to provide enough power to the subs. With the Rolls I have to be very careful not to melt the voice coils. Each 12" 1262W Infinity Reference ($65 each 8 years ago) can only handle 375 Watts RMS.
I did swap out one of the 12" Infinity Reference 1262W's for experiments sake to an Alpine type R 12" when it was on closeout from Crutchfield for like $275.
Using Winisd the Alpine Type R did have a slightly deeper and slightly louder sound curve while still maintaining an almost flat response to the upper cutoff of 80hz.
It does hit a tiny bit deeper and can handle 750 Watts RMS but it has an aluminum former whereas the Infinity has a high temp plastic Kapton former.
From my days doing DB Drag competitions, high temp plastic formers hold up better then aluminum formers. When Aluminum formers over heat they always warp and make that scratchy sound.
High Temp plastic formers just give off an offending smell, melt a little of the bonding on the voice coil winding, reduce a bit in impedance, but keep working!
Anyway thanks for taking these subs apart and recording it! It is very interesting to see what they use. That Velodyne sub had a huge motor on it!
Thank you very much, this was very informative!
beautyfull B,W drivers and enclosure
Excellent video
7:49
Holy shit! Now I knew Velodyne makes some really nice stuff, and I expected the driver to be beefy. But that's just on a whole different level. It looks like the motor is bigger than the cone! That's just amazing.
Well then, you're going to love the Sunfire
I just pulled apart. 😉👍
That’s awesome, thanks.
I Love This SW, metal housing and powerful driver is very nice. I want to use.
I am currently looking for a pair of subs to "marry" nicely with my Quad 57 electrostatic speakers. The B&W PV1D is one I am concidering. I feel it might have a better transient response than normal box subs? Mainly for music listening but also videos. I'm not looking for thunderous volume levels! Having now seen the very high quality construction of the PV1 it will definitely be on the top of my list. Thank you for the video.
I'd like to see a Rythmik teardown since there aren't a ton of servo companies
hey what velodyne subwoofer is that? cuz i need a amp for one
Great vid. Hows about the size difference in driver magnet. Holy shamoly.
nice man
My aunt and her husband have a Accusound OM1050 system and it sounds surprisingly good for a cheap entry level system (just the towers in 2 channel mode). That Accusound OM1050 subwoofer would be a great restoration project. I'd replace the amp with something better, add extra (and thicker) internal foam and replace the driver with a Peerless. It is an MDF box but not that solid. I know when I updated a DSE sub to Dayton amp and very stiff Peerless XLS10 with extra internal foam/damping it sounded a lot better! (very heavy as well)
There are some really well-prices D-Class amplifiers available that can deliver plenty of power without taking up too much space or requiring a huge power supply. Have a look at some of the ICE modules.
Interesting video. Could you explain why the PV1 is not serviceable/repairable one you have opened it. Cant the Ice amplifier be replaced?
Hi. Do you maybe have access to a working power supplier for PV1? The one in mine has been broken and even an authorized service can't fix it :sob:
11:25 Did you ever try to remove this cosmetic radiator ? My PV1's one of driver is hitting this aluminum. I dont know how to remove and see why is it happening. It looks the aluminum radiator has detatched from driver cone which i want to fix. Please advise. Thank
as an amplifier, which chips are worth it, you can
write very interesting thanks in advance!
Any chance i could buy one of these pv1 drivers off of you? I own one of these subs, but it has a single blown driver. It is still fully functional otherwise, just sounds awful. Thanks.
Hi thanks how much that velodyne amp
Did you ever get the velodyne going?
I have a pair of the 800i amps that need attention.
Great Vid. A bass driver in my PV1 just died after 10 years. Do you still have the components of the of the PV1 you took apart and if so did the bass drivers still work? I would be keen to buy them.
Thanks for the comments!
I still have the drivers, but I'm unsure at this stage as to what I'm going to do with them.
Where are you based? I’ve got a B&W PV1 that started popping once or twice a day and now it’s ticking. Be great to send it to you and see if you can fix it?
Hey there - excellent video. I'm almost at the end of a PV1 breakdown and you make the separation of the two sides look so easy. Can you tell me a bit more about how you separated the sides - I'm stuck (no pun intended)? Do you remember if you can get the power supply and amp out without separating?
All good - a little bit more perseverance did the job.
Nice tear down of the pv1, they are a great looking sub, I love mine. What was wrong with this unit that couldn’t be fixed?
That's what I like to know too, must be the control panel or the power unit.
You should think you could order those parts at B&W.
@@mpazs from other tears downs, I think the panel is a B&O unit.
Apparently it is a common unit, so it must be available as a part
I have a B&W PV1D that I left plugged into the main power during the Winter in an area that is susceptible to power surges. When I returned, I found no sound coming out of the unit. The small LED screen is black. Only the navigation soft buttons are operational as well as the B&W logo button. The small LED light turns blue from red when I turn on my sound system but that's about it. Where would you suggest I look? Fuse? If so, where is it? Out of warranty since I bought this in 2020, hence I'm asking here.
That sounds like something has fried in the logic/processor section. If the fuse had popped, it wouldn't power up at all.
I'd say it's time to find a dealer. It also may be worth checking with your insurance to see if you're covered for damages like this.
Velodyne will need all the capacitor changed even the pre amp caps if you change them all it should work fine and it's 8ohm driver👍✌️👌💯
Do you have this and are you willing to sell it?
B&W Pressure Cooker
A car amplifier not mounted on the box will last 2x longer than any plate amplifier bass kills no joke that and cheap capacitors👍✌️👌💯
More info on the cheap systems: simon.oconnorlamb.com/ebayspeakers.html
did you just said B&O amplifier
👍👍😎😎🇩🇰🇩🇰🤟👌✌️🤟👌✌️
Honesty? 120 watts into a speaker is HUGE