Mustang COBRA Rear Brake Replacement
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ก.พ. 2025
- See how to remove and replace the rear pads and rotor brake components on this 2001 Mustang COBRA.
Here is the video I did for the front brakes:
• Mustang COBRA Front Br...
Here is a link to removing the brake cable if required depending on the rear brake work being done:
• How To Remove & Instal...
Here are the parts I used for the rear brakes in this video:
Hawk HPS (Rear):
www.amazon.com...
Baer Sport Brake Rotors 54036-020 (Rear):
www.summitraci...
Russell Stainless Steel Brake Lines 693270:
www.amazon.com...
The parts list for what I used in this video is in the description if interested, thanks for watching!
Very well explained video. I believe you would make a good mechanic. That car will be like a new one when you get finished with it. It sure saves a lot of money being able to do these things yourself.
Thank you for a most informative video
Caution when replenishing the glide pin grease. While its a important step that many miss, it is also important to not over coat or fill the bore. A condition similar to hydro lock takes place causing the pins to not hold a self adjustment. The pins normally have a flat that allows air to bellow. so if your pin self ejects when bottomed in bore, you have to much lube in that area.
Clean bore and pin, add brake grease to pin and insert and spin. Pull the pin and wipe grease from the flat on shaft, and reinsert. The bellow on the pin can also cause a lower pressure form of this hydro lock condition. Center the pin in its travel with the boot installed. clean the outer area where boot holds pin, and give it a pinch with fingers, squeezing the seal to allow air out to equalize inner to outer pressure on the bellow. Best wishes to all.
Fantastic tips on how to properly grease the glide pins, thanks for sharing!
Did not know you could slide the rotor off/of without taking the bracket off. So glad you mentioned this. One question though, don't you need to put a little grease on the pad clips where they ride onto the bracket?
Thank you for your tutorial. You always explain things really good no matter what the subject is! Stay safe. ( AKA Dale B.)
Thanks for the video. That should help speed up the process
Hope it helps thanks for checking it out!
Great video... question though... Why not replace the clips?
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The clips are just warning gauges for pad depth so they are a means to an end. The ones I had were still in decent shape so I reused. However you are correct that if planning ahead and pick up some, they are so cheap it's probably just worth replacing them. Thanks for watching!
Why is there something that resembles a tie rod in the back of these cars??? some kind of panhard bar? thank you for any info, just curious.
These COBRAs have IRS or 'independent rear suspensions' so it's more involved than just a axle and transaxle in the rear. Your probably looking at components on that.
You don't need to hit it with a hammer. Just squeeze it towards the rotor and collapse it, then it will slide off easily.
Aww you didn’t record the part I needed to see can’t figure out how to remove e brake I believe, whatever that line is near the spring!
Actually I did make a video! It was made as a separate video where I remove the brake cable. You can check it out here: th-cam.com/video/-gEie6rXh1M/w-d-xo.html
Well I'm trying to get that last bolt in and can't lol. Can't the ears of the spring on the pad be bend downward a little bit? I only need to go another 1/8 to 1/4 inch down for the hole to line up.
I know exactly what you're talking about, but I didn't bend anything. I needed a second set of hands. I used both my hands to compress the caliper that last 1/8" as you mentioned, and had a helper push the pin in for me. I got it myself on 1 side of the car, but was difficult on the other.
@@TheEclecticHandyman gotcha. Well I could wait till my son gets home if not too late but I'll figure it out doing it myself lol. I thought about a ratchet strap. Talking to someone earlier I was told that those ears can be bend down some because it will still be able to serve it's purpose and function as to prevent the pad from moving around and making noise.
@@TheEclecticHandyman rotating the piston notches to the 6 and 12 o clock positions seemed to do the trick as maybe the little notches on the pad that I believe are supposed to ride in those piston grooves probably prevented the caliper from going down the rest of the way. I took a rubber mallet and bumped it a little bit and it went into place and was able to manuever to line it up. The driver's side I didnt have to hit with a mallet but when I did that side ofcourse I had the notches at 6 and 12 from the start. I think with some even with the notches in the correct position you still may have to give it a bump with a mallet.
@@sandmansimms5704 Glad you got it worked out, and great tip along the way!
@@TheEclecticHandyman thx and np
how do u replace rear wheel hub
Unfortunately I never did that project so I do not have a video on the replacement. The Ford service manuals are a great place to start though if you don't find any videos or write-ups on the hub.
any idea what size the bolts are that hold the caliper bracket ?
Check these rear caliper brake to bracket bolts for your specific make and model to see of they fit. I'm not sure of the exact size: lmr.com/item/LRS-2386C/1994-2004-mustang-rear-brake-caliper-hardware
@@TheEclecticHandyman just whar i needed thank you!
would it be the same for the GT?
The GT didn't have identical brakes as the COBRA, but the overall R&R procedure would be very similar.
Your Mustang?
Yes 😃 I enjoy making videos if I have to fix something on it.