One other concern for you DIY'ers: If the house has been settled for a long period of time, the joists may be permanently BOWED. If that's the case, you're either going to crack the joist when you jack it up, or lift it off of the foundation stones that you see there in the video at the exterior walls. The only real way to repair that is to speak with a Structural Engineer, get his advice on what size joist to use, and sister/replace the old joists with new ones digging new concrete footers and piers. Not every home is a DIY fix. So be careful!
This was so helpful. I'm buying a 150yo house and the floors are also uneven. Seeing this makes me feel better that this is possible without having to rip up the flooring..
It is much better to do this than rip up the floor.. The reason is that ripping up the floor only fixes the floor *temporarily*.. Because the joists themselves are split or damaged, they will continue to bow and sag over time. Thus if you put a nice new floor on broken joists, it will be uneven again in a few years. The only fix is to bring the joists level and then use additional material (joist hangars, cdx sideboards, replace sections) to prevent further movement.
Thank you! I just bought a 1901 Victorian home and it needs some work underneath as well. Other videos all show homes with lots of crawlspace clearance. My lot slopes up towards the back and there is very little space under the back, and a mud/utilities room was built onto the back as well so access is limited. I don't want to go through the floors, either. This is exactly what I'm dealing with. Awesome video!
Finally a DIY of a house like mine. So tired of watching old house videos that have Romex and copper original installation. Houses built in 1960s are not old.
I have some sloped and sagging hardwood floors along with a sloped dining room floor that are in a house that I purchased last summer. The house is 156 years old. The stone foundation still appears to be solid, but the roof that's over the dining room and bathroom settled every which way but loose. However, the roof that's over all three bedrooms as well as the living room is still straight as an arrow. Hopefully the floors can be jacked up and braced.
Correction: What has happened is this... 100 years ago floor joists were not pressure treated, they were rough hewn directly from local forests. They were not given time to dry out or treated, and were likely dropped into place semi-moist. Over the 100 yrs the moisture slowly released and the joists *shrink* which causes them to separate from the outer wall. So what you see are joists that have shrunken over time. At time 3:30, the video says the repair will "prevent further shrinking of the joists", 3:55. This is not correct. The amount of shrinkage has already happened, and it can't be prevented anyway. Building out the beam & joists is intended to *reattach* them so that the joists are again supported by the beam at the outer end.
My only concern is TERMITES. At least here in the south, I would not have recommended wood piers to rely on supporting the home for another long length of time. If there's any moisture in that crawl at all, and usually in old homes there is, termites would compromise the foundation and you'd be back to square one. Use concrete and steel when you can! It'll withstand a longer period of time.
I have the same concern. I have a seasonal home in Connecticut , built in the 1920’s .. balloon frame construction-crawl space . Looks like a brick/mortar support in the center of the house is actually sinking into the ground where there’s roughly an inch space between the beam and brick support.
Should block up higher so jack ram isn’t extended so far and jack slower as well, pops and creaks are normal but the slower you go the better chance you have to listen and prevent bigger problems
i have seen people jack them up very slowy, jack up a half inch , let it sit for a week , come back and jack another half inch . and so on until repaired
That is some real nice work friend. I will say that jacking up any structure is extremely dangerous. I would never want to be under anything I was jacking up like that. I know people do it but it is not for me.
Liked the video.! If anything you gave me ideas on how when and why. Im buying a 118 year old home with a original, beautiful design. The only problem is a sagging back end of the house. Thanks for the ideas....
I just got my first home built in 1900. I got it for dirt cheap all hardwood floors and I have sagging floors upstairs and my living room ceiling looks tilted. My basement is stone foundation with a dirt floor. The main support beam has a nice sag in it so now I feel like I'm screwed no cracks in it or damage. I'm not sure how long it's all sagged like this. But I'm going to see if I can have the basement jacked up to fix the sagging. I just hope it doesn't cost a fortune.
Dig two 24"x24"x18" holes in the dirt basement. Put 6" of gravel down and compact it. Add a grid of 1/2" rebar into the holes then pour 5000psi concrete into them. On top of those piers once it's cured, use lally columns to support the beam. You will need a jack and a 4x4 post to raise the beam slowly so you can slip the lally column under the beam. It's not expensive. You may need to scab on some 4x4 post between the lally column and your carrying beam to distribute the weight depending on the condition of the beam and size of the house.
I took 2 concrete blocks a car jack I lift the floor 4 inches, I stack up bricks got mesh screen and stucco it, I took 4x8 n 4x6 left it like that a month then I lowered the jacks and let it sit on the bricks 2 years later no problems and my floors feel strong
I am moving into an old country home in a few months .It is sagging in the middle .The house was built in 1852.It sits on a partial basement .I know nothing about fixing this problem ,kinda scares me but i know i have to get it taken care of.
I see a couple of issues here so I'll start with the old saying... the house is only as strong as the foundation it's built on. That said, homes of this vintage are commonly built this way, especially in your area, and it's because they were erected in a time when there was no running water, drain pipes, or electrical that needed access from the bottom side. Heck, some didn't even use mortar or cement between the rocks. If you felt a draft from the floor you piled leaves or pine branches against the rocks to hold out the wind, which of course caused the wood to rot. But hey, that took 50 years so nobody cared. Basically what you have done as a permanent fix will be ok for the next 20 - 30 years, at which time the next owner will have to go through similar motions. I also suspect the next owner will have to do something to stabilize the rock foundation because now you have dirt slope inside, which is prone to shifting. Since you live in an area with winter frost the proper way to address this is to pour a footing below the frost line (at least 42" below exterior grade) and build the foundation up with cement block. Of course that's also the time to address any problems with a rotten sill board. IOW, while the house is supported and there's room to work. When all is complete then the house is rested on the finished foundation wall. Let me add that repairs only attempt to maintain market value but a proper fix can add real value at sale time
not sure if you still reply to this video. but i'm curious if you experienced any side effects on the top floor? i'd like to do this on my own house but am a bit nervous that jacking up in one area will introduce flex in other areas, or cause stud bowing which won't easily be noticed unless the walls are ripped out.
That was very informative and looks good,my house is 60 years old and the floor is sagging and you can see it upstairs where theres separation,I will use your ideas to work on it.
Hi! unfortunately I bought almost 150 years house. Inspecter suggested to buy but now I found main beam and whole ceiling damaged . I have to changed whole first floor , is it possible and how expensive ? Thanks Dev
You need a licensed architect to examine and determine how damaged the main beam is. Most likely the beam should be replaced. Costs vary and depend entirely on size and extent of damage.
I gather everything is still level? What I am never able to understand is whenever a job like this one is filmed and the process explained (very well explained too) a warning statement is always thrown in to consult an architect and or engineer or both. Yet no one ever explains what has been decided on by the “professionals” to achieve a satisfactory outcome? So if you don’t mind me asking you (and you don’t have to answer this question if you don’t want to) - is this what they have suggested? Or is this what you have worked out to be the best method after doing the research? In Australia our crawlspaces are mostly not as narrow in space as your house - from your excellent demonstration and if one did not know much about the different approaches to levelling houses in confined spaces - one could easily think that everything done so far, the use of unmortared cement blocks, plywood without any measures taken to make sure they don't rot in case of dampness- even the use of "temporary" supports - all seemed like very unstable solutions for an architect or engineer to recommend. But this does work - I know it does - I have had to apply similar methods to a part of the crawl space of my 120 year old cottage because it was built almost at the bottom of a hill so the land slopes a fair bit. Great demonstration!
Yes, this was suggested by a professional. My father is a licensed architect, and I am working as the contractor in this case (family owned home). We decided the approach together, where he provides the overall understanding of loads and structure, and I provide the details on tasks and implementation. I agree things will usually work just fine putting in temporary supports yourself, but there are those cases where the loads don't go where you expect. You want someone whose job it is to be very certain.
hi thanks for sharing this video i am in the process of starting this very same project. I was wondering why you didnt chose to use pressure treated or cedar 4x4's to protect from insects and rotting?
These are pressure treated 6x6's. You can't easily tell from the basement lighting, but they are pressure treated. @Deanoss and @Kachiqui, The question is about the beams, so you can't use concrete, and steel would be extremely costly and over-engineered. Pressure treated 6x6's is the correct material.
What is the average cost of a project such as this? Reason I ask I looking at home currently that was Built in 1920 and I noticed it is sagging in the middle.
Rama Hoetzlein what profession do I call to dig basement?? I think I can do the raising and installing hangers, but don't know who to call for digging the ground
@@junkmail1203 For the digging, you want a "General Contractor". Just call around and confirm that they have an electric or pneumatic jackhammer and other tools appropriate for digging rock/dirt in tight spaces. Don't deal with someone who says they can "dig your basement" and then brings only shovels. General contractor.
yes walls might crack or close up old cracks. dont do this under your kitchen or bathroom, you could wreck all the tiling and cupboard alignment. you can also break windows. so just be really careful!
Yes, plaster around the walls and door frames may crack. If done carefully, that is by raising each joist only a little bit at a time, you shouldn't have cracks any larger than the floor unevenness you are fixing. You may need to adjust door mountings.
I am planning to do a sill plate repair. I have few basic questions! What size of a beam are you using here to jack up . 4 by4 or 6 by 6. How did you make the shims and whats the capacity of the jack. thanks you
What about a 130 yr old Brick home that has an upstairs that is sloped? I want to purchase it and we are renting it. One of the many problems that I am wanting to get estimates.
@Lindsay. Not sure what you mean by "upstairs that is sloped". Perhaps you mean the ceiling is at an angle. In any case, a brick house will have a very different set of problems. Beams may be resting on brick, which is jacked in a similar way, but has to be supported very differently. Definitely recommend that you talk to several licensed architects, and keep looking until you find one that you like to work with and explains the process/issues.
Thank you. Is the wood blocks just resting on the concrete blocks? If so, then the the 6x6 wood beams are resting on the wood blocks? Just confirming that there is nothing actually attaching each block to one another. Thanks.
What if the earth shifts during an earth quake ? When the carpenters built my home in the early 1970's (Bay Area California), they used a wood block encased in a concrete pier, which is nailed to another wood block which supports the wood beams, which supports the plywood. I have a picture if you need.
Also, While you were working on the foundation the Jack was supporting the floor. So if the project takes a week, the jack is engaged the entire time until project is finished?
Since the 1950s, in California, homes have had their mudsills bolted to the foundation. Although, it always looked to me like the floor joists could just slide off the mudsill.
Well, I am going to attempt to do this myself. I have been ripped off twice already and so disappointed. I recently bought a home built in 1923. Home inspector falsified the report (maybe he was just an idiot) or I wouldn't have purchased. I'm pretty handy although this is way out of my scope. I'm gonna wing it after watching numerous videos. Still not confident but have no choice. :(
The beam was not replaced in this case. The outer beam was still intact, but the floor joists which rest on it had separated from it. Thus the original beam could be left in place and a secondary beam (shown in video) was added to re-support the broken joists.
Great... shows u have no taste or appreciation for elegance a old home that is renovated and designedwell will surpass ur new house any day ur new house has no character just built with sticks and cardboard. Do u know the story of the three little pigs the wind will soon teach u not to live it stick houses. I bet u shop at ikea Lolol u North American need to go to Europe to learn what is elegance British historic homes are filled with elegance and taste ur new house everyone can Map it out from the front door....booing tiny house.
oh how I wish you could come do our first floor kitchen floor.... we just purchased a home built in 1860 and its solid as a rock... the only part that is obviously in need of help is the kitchen... how do I go about finding a contractor to come do this?
Thank you!! never thought of an architect. I am meeting with a consultant this Friday for overall home repair needs. ill make sure to contact an architect as well.... Thanks
I have the same problem in two sections of my house which was build in 1903 how long did this process take you and why do crawl places have so much dirt in them?
Start with leveling first floor as needed, then move to upper floors. For upper floors it is Important to spread the load across several feet perpendicular to joists directly below. Again, as mentioned in video, consulting with engineer or architect before working on this type of repair may save your life.
Why on earth would you be speaking to an architect before doing something like this? Ask a structural engineer for advice if you want to be mucking around with the structure of a house.
An engineer or architect for that matter would only be helpful if the framing is exposed or you have a blueprint of the house which is not always the case. I've had to completely disreguard an engineers recommendationd once the preliminary demo is done ( remove drywall) and you can actually see whats going on in some sagging situations- nobody has x-ray vision Its pretty amazing what some builders did even right up to the early 90's and it passed inspection! Of course nowadays everything is overbuilt ( we use lvl beams everywhere even short spans- which reminds me in the video those 6x6 beams are not beams and subject to deflection- also you would want to make sure any supports have poured concrete footings to code concrete blocks alone are not steble or strong enough
An architect is the *correct* person to talk to. A structural engineer would over-engineer the repair and cost significantly more. Architects are trained to understand the loads, beams and structure of a house so that *exactly* the repairs you need can be done. With either professional, the important thing is that they specialize in the type of structure that you are fixing. A structural engineer who focuses on 3-story plus buildings will not be helpful. You want a residential architect.
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One other concern for you DIY'ers: If the house has been settled for a long period of time, the joists may be permanently BOWED. If that's the case, you're either going to crack the joist when you jack it up, or lift it off of the foundation stones that you see there in the video at the exterior walls. The only real way to repair that is to speak with a Structural Engineer, get his advice on what size joist to use, and sister/replace the old joists with new ones digging new concrete footers and piers. Not every home is a DIY fix. So be careful!
This was so helpful. I'm buying a 150yo house and the floors are also uneven. Seeing this makes me feel better that this is possible without having to rip up the flooring..
It is much better to do this than rip up the floor.. The reason is that ripping up the floor only fixes the floor *temporarily*.. Because the joists themselves are split or damaged, they will continue to bow and sag over time. Thus if you put a nice new floor on broken joists, it will be uneven again in a few years. The only fix is to bring the joists level and then use additional material (joist hangars, cdx sideboards, replace sections) to prevent further movement.
Thank you! I just bought a 1901 Victorian home and it needs some work underneath as well. Other videos all show homes with lots of crawlspace clearance. My lot slopes up towards the back and there is very little space under the back, and a mud/utilities room was built onto the back as well so access is limited. I don't want to go through the floors, either. This is exactly what I'm dealing with. Awesome video!
Finally a DIY of a house like mine. So tired of watching old house videos that have Romex and copper original installation. Houses built in 1960s are not old.
I have some sloped and sagging hardwood floors along with a sloped dining room floor that are in a house that I purchased last summer. The house is 156 years old. The stone foundation still appears to be solid, but the roof that's over the dining room and bathroom settled every which way but loose. However, the roof that's over all three bedrooms as well as the living room is still straight as an arrow. Hopefully the floors can be jacked up and braced.
Correction: What has happened is this... 100 years ago floor joists were not pressure treated, they were rough hewn directly from local forests. They were not given time to dry out or treated, and were likely dropped into place semi-moist. Over the 100 yrs the moisture slowly released and the joists *shrink* which causes them to separate from the outer wall. So what you see are joists that have shrunken over time. At time 3:30, the video says the repair will "prevent further shrinking of the joists", 3:55. This is not correct. The amount of shrinkage has already happened, and it can't be prevented anyway. Building out the beam & joists is intended to *reattach* them so that the joists are again supported by the beam at the outer end.
My only concern is TERMITES. At least here in the south, I would not have recommended wood piers to rely on supporting the home for another long length of time. If there's any moisture in that crawl at all, and usually in old homes there is, termites would compromise the foundation and you'd be back to square one. Use concrete and steel when you can! It'll withstand a longer period of time.
Wow you did a great job!!!!! Thank you for sharing. My crawl space is must smaller but you've given me ideas. May God continue to bless you!!
I have the same concern. I have a seasonal home in Connecticut , built in the 1920’s .. balloon frame construction-crawl space . Looks like a brick/mortar support in the center of the house is actually sinking into the ground where there’s roughly an inch space between the beam and brick support.
Should block up higher so jack ram isn’t extended so far and jack slower as well, pops and creaks are normal but the slower you go the better chance you have to listen and prevent bigger problems
i have seen people jack them up very slowy, jack up a half inch , let it sit for a week , come back and jack another half inch . and so on until repaired
That is some real nice work friend. I will say that jacking up any structure is extremely dangerous. I would never want to be under anything I was jacking up like that. I know people do it but it is not for me.
Question
Can you lift 1 Beam one at a time or do you have to lift them up several at a time. I only have one bottle
Jack
Liked the video.! If anything you gave me ideas on how when and why. Im buying a 118 year old home with a original, beautiful design. The only problem is a sagging back end of the house. Thanks for the ideas....
I just got my first home built in 1900. I got it for dirt cheap all hardwood floors and I have sagging floors upstairs and my living room ceiling looks tilted. My basement is stone foundation with a dirt floor. The main support beam has a nice sag in it so now I feel like I'm screwed no cracks in it or damage. I'm not sure how long it's all sagged like this. But I'm going to see if I can have the basement jacked up to fix the sagging. I just hope it doesn't cost a fortune.
Dig two 24"x24"x18" holes in the dirt basement. Put 6" of gravel down and compact it. Add a grid of 1/2" rebar into the holes then pour 5000psi concrete into them. On top of those piers once it's cured, use lally columns to support the beam. You will need a jack and a 4x4 post to raise the beam slowly so you can slip the lally column under the beam. It's not expensive. You may need to scab on some 4x4 post between the lally column and your carrying beam to distribute the weight depending on the condition of the beam and size of the house.
That insulation sure made for a messier job. Excellent job though, I'll bet it's solid as a rock.
I took 2 concrete blocks a car jack I lift the floor 4 inches, I stack up bricks got mesh screen and stucco it, I took 4x8 n 4x6 left it like that a month then I lowered the jacks and let it sit on the bricks 2 years later no problems and my floors feel strong
I am moving into an old country home in a few months .It is sagging in the middle .The house was built in 1852.It sits on a partial basement .I know nothing about fixing this problem ,kinda scares me but i know i have to get it taken care of.
I see a couple of issues here so I'll start with the old saying... the house is only as strong as the foundation it's built on. That said, homes of this vintage are commonly built this way, especially in your area, and it's because they were erected in a time when there was no running water, drain pipes, or electrical that needed access from the bottom side. Heck, some didn't even use mortar or cement between the rocks. If you felt a draft from the floor you piled leaves or pine branches against the rocks to hold out the wind, which of course caused the wood to rot. But hey, that took 50 years so nobody cared. Basically what you have done as a permanent fix will be ok for the next 20 - 30 years, at which time the next owner will have to go through similar motions. I also suspect the next owner will have to do something to stabilize the rock foundation because now you have dirt slope inside, which is prone to shifting. Since you live in an area with winter frost the proper way to address this is to pour a footing below the frost line (at least 42" below exterior grade) and build the foundation up with cement block. Of course that's also the time to address any problems with a rotten sill board. IOW, while the house is supported and there's room to work. When all is complete then the house is rested on the finished foundation wall. Let me add that repairs only attempt to maintain market value but a proper fix can add real value at sale time
Is it possibly to reinforce that outer stone foundation, with some forming and concrete?
Why treated lumber & not a steel I-beam?
very cool. I'm starting a similar project on a smaller house. this was helpful.
not sure if you still reply to this video. but i'm curious if you experienced any side effects on the top floor?
i'd like to do this on my own house but am a bit nervous that jacking up in one area will introduce flex in other areas, or cause stud bowing which won't easily be noticed unless the walls are ripped out.
That was very informative and looks good,my house is 60 years old and the floor is sagging and you can see it upstairs where theres separation,I will use your ideas to work on it.
Can you lift middle plot size 30*50
In another comment you said the new beams were 6x6. What size were the posts and how far apart did you space them?
Hi! unfortunately I bought almost 150 years house. Inspecter suggested to buy but now I found main beam and whole ceiling damaged . I have to changed whole first floor , is it possible and how expensive ?
Thanks
Dev
You need a licensed architect to examine and determine how damaged the main beam is. Most likely the beam should be replaced. Costs vary and depend entirely on size and extent of damage.
What do you replace the jack with?
My house is pretty bad mine needs this done.
Good video but always use a good glue! Dont care what anyone else says. Glue it and screw it.
I gather everything is still level? What I am never able to understand is whenever a job like this one is filmed and the process explained (very well explained too) a warning statement is always thrown in to consult an architect and or engineer or both. Yet no one ever explains what has been decided on by the “professionals” to achieve a satisfactory outcome?
So if you don’t mind me asking you (and you don’t have to answer this question if you don’t want to) - is this what they have suggested? Or is this what you have worked out to be the best method after doing the research?
In Australia our crawlspaces are mostly not as narrow in space as your house - from your excellent demonstration and if one did not know much about the different approaches to levelling houses in confined spaces - one could easily think that everything done so far, the use of unmortared cement blocks, plywood without any measures taken to make sure they don't rot in case of dampness- even the use of "temporary" supports - all seemed like very unstable solutions for an architect or engineer to recommend. But this does work - I know it does - I have had to apply similar methods to a part of the crawl space of my 120 year old cottage because it was built almost at the bottom of a hill so the land slopes a fair bit.
Great demonstration!
Yes, this was suggested by a professional. My father is a licensed architect, and I am working as the contractor in this case (family owned home). We decided the approach together, where he provides the overall understanding of loads and structure, and I provide the details on tasks and implementation. I agree things will usually work just fine putting in temporary supports yourself, but there are those cases where the loads don't go where you expect. You want someone whose job it is to be very certain.
hi thanks for sharing this video i am in the process of starting this very same project. I was wondering why you didnt chose to use pressure treated or cedar 4x4's to protect from insects and rotting?
@Deanoss Last i like concrete too.
@Deanoss Last agreed.
These are pressure treated 6x6's. You can't easily tell from the basement lighting, but they are pressure treated.
@Deanoss and @Kachiqui, The question is about the beams, so you can't use concrete, and steel would be extremely costly and over-engineered. Pressure treated 6x6's is the correct material.
What is the average cost of a project such as this? Reason I ask I looking at home currently that was Built in 1920 and I noticed it is sagging in the middle.
Rama Hoetzlein what profession do I call to dig basement?? I think I can do the raising and installing hangers, but don't know who to call for digging the ground
@@junkmail1203 For the digging, you want a "General Contractor". Just call around and confirm that they have an electric or pneumatic jackhammer and other tools appropriate for digging rock/dirt in tight spaces. Don't deal with someone who says they can "dig your basement" and then brings only shovels. General contractor.
Now how does this affect the rest of the house? Will the walls crack? The doorways level out?
yes walls might crack or close up old cracks. dont do this under your kitchen or bathroom, you could wreck all the tiling and cupboard alignment. you can also break windows. so just be really careful!
Yes, plaster around the walls and door frames may crack. If done carefully, that is by raising each joist only a little bit at a time, you shouldn't have cracks any larger than the floor unevenness you are fixing.
You may need to adjust door mountings.
Hey Rama i raise houses in Australia i was just wondering what its like to get a job doing it over there and if you would take someone on, thankyou
I am planning to do a sill plate repair. I have few basic questions! What size of a beam are you using here to jack up . 4 by4 or 6 by 6. How did you make the shims and whats the capacity of the jack. thanks you
Thanks
Question does the house have to be empty when this is done like with no furniture and people?
Nope. This can be done while there are people and furniture, no problem.
I appreciate the detail! It was very helpful!
What about a 130 yr old Brick home that has an upstairs that is sloped? I want to purchase it and we are renting it. One of the many problems that I am wanting to get estimates.
@Lindsay. Not sure what you mean by "upstairs that is sloped". Perhaps you mean the ceiling is at an angle. In any case, a brick house will have a very different set of problems. Beams may be resting on brick, which is jacked in a similar way, but has to be supported very differently. Definitely recommend that you talk to several licensed architects, and keep looking until you find one that you like to work with and explains the process/issues.
Great Video. What kind of concrete Blocks did you use to support the wood?
Thank you. Is the wood blocks just resting on the concrete blocks? If so, then the the 6x6 wood beams are resting on the wood blocks? Just confirming that there is nothing actually attaching each block to one another. Thanks.
What if the earth shifts during an earth quake ? When the carpenters built my home in the early 1970's (Bay Area California), they used a wood block encased in a concrete pier, which is nailed to another wood block which supports the wood beams, which supports the plywood. I have a picture if you need.
Also, While you were working on the foundation the Jack was supporting the floor. So if the project takes a week, the jack is engaged the entire time until project is finished?
Thank you very much. I'm Started to understand the basics now. My house is bolted to the foundation. It must have been code in the 1970's.
Since the 1950s, in California, homes have had their mudsills bolted to the foundation. Although, it always looked to me like the floor joists could just slide off the mudsill.
Well, I am going to attempt to do this myself. I have been ripped off twice already and so disappointed. I recently bought a home built in 1923. Home inspector falsified the report (maybe he was just an idiot) or I wouldn't have purchased. I'm pretty handy although this is way out of my scope. I'm gonna wing it after watching numerous videos. Still not confident but have no choice. :(
Did you make any progress? 1923 home probably looks a little different how floor was framed
What should I use to determine if the whole house floor is level?
Riverboatbob2 a water level and a stick.
What was your method for replacing the beam?
The beam was not replaced in this case. The outer beam was still intact, but the floor joists which rest on it had separated from it. Thus the original beam could be left in place and a secondary beam (shown in video) was added to re-support the broken joists.
I have bought some older houses to remodel and rent out, but after living in a new house I could never go back to a old house.
Great... shows u have no taste or appreciation for elegance a old home that is renovated and designedwell will surpass ur new house any day ur new house has no character just built with sticks and cardboard. Do u know the story of the three little pigs the wind will soon teach u not to live it stick houses. I bet u shop at ikea Lolol u North American need to go to Europe to learn what is elegance British historic homes are filled with elegance and taste ur new house everyone can Map it out from the front door....booing tiny house.
notice how when you let go of your handle it raises? your jack is bleeding. not much. tip use a vise on your handle to close valve
Dont know how this passed inspection with all lego parts not even tight down with metal tie downs
oh how I wish you could come do our first floor kitchen floor.... we just purchased a home built in 1860 and its solid as a rock... the only part that is obviously in need of help is the kitchen... how do I go about finding a contractor to come do this?
Thank you!! never thought of an architect. I am meeting with a consultant this Friday for overall home repair needs. ill make sure to contact an architect as well.... Thanks
Hey I'm in the same situation. Do you have any update of your saggy kitchen?
I have the same problem in two sections of my house which was build in 1903 how long did this process take you and why do crawl places have so much dirt in them?
Shouldn't the floor joists have been disconnected from the sill beam prior to jacking?
So not looking forward to this....
Jack on top should be best practice and is more stable....
Very Good!... 91 🐄🦉🏴☠✝{4-25-2022}
I have the same problem but at my second floor
Start with leveling first floor as needed, then move to upper floors. For upper floors it is Important to spread the load across several feet perpendicular to joists directly below. Again, as mentioned in video, consulting with engineer or architect before working on this type of repair may save your life.
Why on earth would you be speaking to an architect before doing something like this? Ask a structural engineer for advice if you want to be mucking around with the structure of a house.
A good engineer will find a suitable solution to suit the situation and it makes little difference what size the structure is.
this repair looks pretty darn good.
An engineer or architect for that matter would only be helpful if the framing is exposed or you have a blueprint of the house which is not always the case. I've had to completely disreguard an engineers recommendationd once the preliminary demo is done ( remove drywall) and you can actually see whats going on in some sagging situations- nobody has x-ray vision
Its pretty amazing what some builders did even right up to the early 90's and it passed inspection!
Of course nowadays everything is overbuilt ( we use lvl beams everywhere even short spans- which reminds me in the video those 6x6 beams are not beams and subject to deflection- also you would want to make sure any supports have poured concrete footings to code concrete blocks alone are not steble or strong enough
An architect is perfectly qualified to handle the structural integrity of residential home.
An architect is the *correct* person to talk to. A structural engineer would over-engineer the repair and cost significantly more. Architects are trained to understand the loads, beams and structure of a house so that *exactly* the repairs you need can be done. With either professional, the important thing is that they specialize in the type of structure that you are fixing. A structural engineer who focuses on 3-story plus buildings will not be helpful. You want a residential architect.
Dont ever jack a 150 yr old house that fast !!! No more than two clicks a day !!
This is a very risky job, I suggest getting professional assistants before tackling this job.
As a professional carpenter I can assure you that most of this is unnecessary. But.... It will work!
nope! lol