how any should should the pump have to mount the timing guard that goes infront. can you tell me which ones are for that? I bought a torn apart 4.7 dirango so i dont know what goes where
Hello thank you for the video, I was wondering on a Jeep Grand Cherokee WK 4.7L V8 2009, is it necessary to drop the oil pan to remove the oil pump? or is it enough with just removing the front timing cover? Thanks
The oil pick up tube must be removed first before you can remove the oil pump. You have to raise the engine with a hoist, remove steering rack, and your exhaust from the headers down to remove the oil pan. Removing the oil pan requires you to unbolt the pick up tube and let it drop into the pan before removing. I wish I would have known this before attempting on my 2002 Dakota 2wd. I finally got the job done today after purchasing a engine hoist and cutting my exhaust off right below the cats lol
In reality, just pour some good quality high grade engine oil into the pump, turn it a few times to spread the oil, then install, dont even worry about wiping it down...just make sure it is well oiled prior to install...this is more than adequate...as for the removal, be wary, I've actually seen manuals that instruct removal of the pan before removal...a lot of extra work, and one video I came across, the guy actually removed a cross member, bottom trans/engine bracket, oil pan, pickup, and the windage tray....problem is if you remove the pan, you'll need to replace the windage as well because of the gasket.....a lot of extra work AND money....the timing set can cost anywhere from $125 to $500 depending on components, and you can get a set WITH oil pump, near $600 I believe, but a good quality set without the gears (3), would run between $125 and $250 on average (3 chains, all guides, backing plate with guide for main chain between the gear and oil pump), and both hydraulic tensioners, not too bad a deal) ...
There are a plethora of issues that seemed to play the 4.7 Jeep Dodge engine that would go away completely if you would use about a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil about a week before your oil change on occasion. It would stop the Rocker lash adjuster fails, it will stop the pickup tube getting plugged up, it would help with the issue with the PCV hose, but you can fix that by going to a 2008 PCV system with a 2008 oil fill tube. And it'll run cooler with 180-degree thermostat, and then either put a mechanical fan on the water pump snout. It would be a Ford style replacement fan, or put electric fan on it and get rid of that stupid over-engineered hydraulic fan. But Marvel Mystery Oil and zMAX will cure a couple of those major issues with a 4.7. The Marvel Mystery Oil will also keep the oil pump clean, because of the high phosphorus in the Marvel Mystery Oil, it will keep that sludge from accumulating. That sludge comes from improper oil changes especially with non-synthetic oil. A little bit of assembly Lube in that will actually stay in it while you assemble everything
Nice write up thanks for Sharon and yes I totally agree you cannot beat either one of those products are excellent and I don’t know what it is about the 47 but he does not like dirty a while. In the story and the PCVs of them flag from day one
I got ticking coming from my engine still runs fine but dies while driving occasionally but I think that’s do to a dirty throttle body also idles a bit rough But think that mystery oil could get rid of the ticking
A little off topic but I need some advice. While changing oil sending unit I broke it off at the threads I tried an easy out and it broke in the hole flush. what do you recommend I do tried drilling ,heat no success help me out please.
NADIE JONES Hi Nadie, sorry for the delay. What you need is the extraction tool that has a square fluke and they can be bought at Sears. You just drill out a little hole and then tap the extractor into it and it will come out.
JamieJones TheCarMan pita when extractors get stuck. Sometimes heat helps to back them out but if not you need a carbide drill tip Which good concrete drill bits happen to have. Might help to grind a flat edge but either way will drill through the extractor etc
Hello, I have a problem and need an informed opinion, I was replacing the head gaskets and timing chains and all went well with help from your videos, My problem is one of the bolts on the output side of the oil pump broke off in the block. I do not have the time or resources to tear this thing back down again. What kind of oil pressure can I expect to see with only one of the bolts on the output side holding the pump against the block?
+GangstaDawgMcShizzleMahNizzle omg what a pain in the ass, here's the thing as long as the o-ring is secure you're going to have good oil flow , of course I in no way endorsed doing that but if you don't have a choice you don't have a choice I think it'll fly just fine
I have a 4.7l jeep and at cold start I have great oil pressure but at warm idle it drops to 4-8 psi. When I drive it the pressure goes up to 30-35 psi. I don't hear any engine noise till the oil warms then a slight knock at low pressure then goes away once the pressure goes back up.
hi,i have a jeep gran cherokee 5.7 hemi that was start to flashing the engine and i think is the oil pump...there some istruction more specifcly about that, how to remove,step by step,cause i wont spend a lots...in Calgary Canada this is so expensive!! thanks for all of you guys !
Alessandro Terracciano Hi Alessandro, so your oil light is flashing? If it is, the first thing that I would recommend doing is dropping your oil pan and checking the oil pick up tube to ensure that it isn't clogged up. If you see any of clog whatsoever, just replace the tube and that should fix your problem. I just went through this exact thing with my Ford F150. The second thing that it could be is the oil sending unit. That is a really easy fix and it just unscrews to take it out and replace it.
On my 99 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 4.7L my oil gauge doesn't do it all the time, but from time to time the pressure will drop to zero or just shy, but if I push the accelerator to 900 rpm the pressure comes back. I am going with the common problem that you mentioned that the intake tube is clogged and we'll see how that goes when I drop the oil pan. I was wondering though why the gauge reads pressure when you turn the ignition switch on, but before the starter is engaged? I was starting to wonder if like fuel pumps that the oil pumps had gone electric but after watching you video I guess they haven't. Also I have to rebuild the front differential and I have to figure out a fix for my dual zone HVAC control/thermostat as it's $600 for a replacement module. If you have any plans on making or have made videos about that. Thanks.
Hi Nee Kniggit. I am having a very similar problem with my 2004 4.7 HO. The gauge drops to 0 at idle once it's warmed up, but goes back up over 800 RPM. I was going to try replacing the oil pressure sending unit first. Did you find the solution to your issue?
Raul Lower definitely man that's exactly what to do do that a couple times driver for 500 miles if you can dump it for 500 miles dump it just do that until it gets nice and clean
more often than not a clogged oil pickup tube at the bottom of the oil pan is usually your culprit or a leaking sending unit so the sending unit you can replace for about ten bucks and the oil pickup tube probably 30 $40 and maybe an hour's worth of time
Jim Capone No problem at all. Glad to hear that the video helped you out. We just decided to do a video on this project and separate it into several tutorials since its such a huge undertaking. Let us know if you ever have any questions or need some help.
How do test my oil pump? Or where should I start before assuming I have a bad oil pump? I have enough oil, good oil sending unit. What's the steps and procedures Should i follow? Thank very much for your video! Very helpful.
Great video, I'm getting ready to do a timing chain and oil pump .. Does this 4.7 have crank seal when oil pan is pulled off like the chevys do ??? Thanks for all you do on here
It doesn't just slide right off. If you have a front differential, you're in for a world of hurt trying to get that oil pan off. That's the hellish nightmare I'm going through just to get the pan off to unbolt the pick up tube and etc, etc, etc. This is a TERRIBLE design for an oil pump pickup tube set up!
Jason S - im doing my 02 4.7 4x4 Dakota with 5spd manual tranny right now. Did u get yours done? If so, any tips or videos u found to help with dropping the front dif & steering rack? Definitely a poor design & a huge pain In the ass so far
People trash jeeps cus they fail to do rtheygular matinence..Also the 4.7 with such short gearing and bad mpg it shifts at 2k maybe 2400. Thats normal driving..Now the once a week braaap to 4k is HEALTHY for this V8 helps prevent sludge
JamieJones TheCarMan hi guys. I checked my oil pressure on my jeep 3.7 it reads 30 psi at idle and I'm getting 95 psi at 3000rpm would you say that's good oil pressure I hope so because those oil pans on the liberty are a pain to drop (No clearance) thank you guys
how any should should the pump have to mount the timing guard that goes infront. can you tell me which ones are for that? I bought a torn apart 4.7 dirango so i dont know what goes where
Hello thank you for the video, I was wondering on a Jeep Grand Cherokee WK 4.7L V8 2009, is it necessary to drop the oil pan to remove the oil pump? or is it enough with just removing the front timing cover? Thanks
Have to remove oil pan cause the pickup tube is connected to pump with 1 bolt
The oil pick up tube must be removed first before you can remove the oil pump. You have to raise the engine with a hoist, remove steering rack, and your exhaust from the headers down to remove the oil pan. Removing the oil pan requires you to unbolt the pick up tube and let it drop into the pan before removing. I wish I would have known this before attempting on my 2002 Dakota 2wd. I finally got the job done today after purchasing a engine hoist and cutting my exhaust off right below the cats lol
excellent demonstration keep it up
01 durango 199k miles blown head gasket. ticking from motor. is it worth fixing everything?
In reality, just pour some good quality high grade engine oil into the pump, turn it a few times to spread the oil, then install, dont even worry about wiping it down...just make sure it is well oiled prior to install...this is more than adequate...as for the removal, be wary, I've actually seen manuals that instruct removal of the pan before removal...a lot of extra work, and one video I came across, the guy actually removed a cross member, bottom trans/engine bracket, oil pan, pickup, and the windage tray....problem is if you remove the pan, you'll need to replace the windage as well because of the gasket.....a lot of extra work AND money....the timing set can cost anywhere from $125 to $500 depending on components, and you can get a set WITH oil pump, near $600 I believe, but a good quality set without the gears (3), would run between $125 and $250 on average (3 chains, all guides, backing plate with guide for main chain between the gear and oil pump), and both hydraulic tensioners, not too bad a deal) ...
There are a plethora of issues that seemed to play the 4.7 Jeep Dodge engine that would go away completely if you would use about a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil about a week before your oil change on occasion. It would stop the Rocker lash adjuster fails, it will stop the pickup tube getting plugged up, it would help with the issue with the PCV hose, but you can fix that by going to a 2008 PCV system with a 2008 oil fill tube. And it'll run cooler with 180-degree thermostat, and then either put a mechanical fan on the water pump snout. It would be a Ford style replacement fan, or put electric fan on it and get rid of that stupid over-engineered hydraulic fan. But Marvel Mystery Oil and zMAX will cure a couple of those major issues with a 4.7. The Marvel Mystery Oil will also keep the oil pump clean, because of the high phosphorus in the Marvel Mystery Oil, it will keep that sludge from accumulating. That sludge comes from improper oil changes especially with non-synthetic oil. A little bit of assembly Lube in that will actually stay in it while you assemble everything
Nice write up thanks for Sharon and yes I totally agree you cannot beat either one of those products are excellent and I don’t know what it is about the 47 but he does not like dirty a while. In the story and the PCVs of them flag from day one
I got ticking coming from my engine still runs fine but dies while driving occasionally but I think that’s do to a dirty throttle body also idles a bit rough
But think that mystery oil could get rid of the ticking
I have a 2000 jeep grand chrokee 4.7l
A little off topic but I need some advice. While changing oil sending unit I broke it off at the threads I tried an easy out and it broke in the hole flush. what do you recommend I do tried drilling ,heat no success help me out please.
NADIE JONES Hi Nadie, sorry for the delay. What you need is the extraction tool that has a square fluke and they can be bought at Sears. You just drill out a little hole and then tap the extractor into it and it will come out.
JamieJones TheCarMan pita when extractors get stuck. Sometimes heat helps to back them out but if not you need a carbide drill tip Which good concrete drill bits happen to have. Might help to grind a flat edge but either way will drill through the extractor etc
Hello, I have a problem and need an informed opinion, I was replacing the head gaskets and timing chains and all went well with help from your videos, My problem is one of the bolts on the output side of the oil pump broke off in the block.
I do not have the time or resources to tear this thing back down again. What kind of oil pressure can I expect to see with only one of the bolts on the output side holding the pump against the block?
+GangstaDawgMcShizzleMahNizzle omg what a pain in the ass, here's the thing as long as the o-ring is secure you're going to have good oil flow , of course I in no way endorsed doing that but if you don't have a choice you don't have a choice I think it'll fly just fine
I have a 4.7l jeep and at cold start I have great oil pressure but at warm idle it drops to 4-8 psi. When I drive it the pressure goes up to 30-35 psi. I don't hear any engine noise till the oil warms then a slight knock at low pressure then goes away once the pressure goes back up.
hi,i have a jeep gran cherokee 5.7 hemi that was start to flashing the engine and i think is the oil pump...there some istruction more specifcly about that, how to remove,step by step,cause i wont spend a lots...in Calgary Canada this is so expensive!! thanks for all of you guys !
Alessandro Terracciano Hi Alessandro, so your oil light is flashing? If it is, the first thing that I would recommend doing is dropping your oil pan and checking the oil pick up tube to ensure that it isn't clogged up. If you see any of clog whatsoever, just replace the tube and that should fix your problem. I just went through this exact thing with my Ford F150. The second thing that it could be is the oil sending unit. That is a really easy fix and it just unscrews to take it out and replace it.
Thanks! Great video
On my 99 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 4.7L my oil gauge doesn't do it all the time, but from time to time the pressure will drop to zero or just shy, but if I push the accelerator to 900 rpm the pressure comes back. I am going with the common problem that you mentioned that the intake tube is clogged and we'll see how that goes when I drop the oil pan. I was wondering though why the gauge reads pressure when you turn the ignition switch on, but before the starter is engaged? I was starting to wonder if like fuel pumps that the oil pumps had gone electric but after watching you video I guess they haven't. Also I have to rebuild the front differential and I have to figure out a fix for my dual zone HVAC control/thermostat as it's $600 for a replacement module. If you have any plans on making or have made videos about that. Thanks.
Hi Nee Kniggit. I am having a very similar problem with my 2004 4.7 HO. The gauge drops to 0 at idle once it's warmed up, but goes back up over 800 RPM. I was going to try replacing the oil pressure sending unit first. Did you find the solution to your issue?
Can i run sea foam through it to clean the gunk out of the pump?
Raul Lower definitely man that's exactly what to do do that a couple times driver for 500 miles if you can dump it for 500 miles dump it just do that until it gets nice and clean
hi my oil light only comes on in the morning when I hit the gas. it drops all the way down to 0. when it warms up everything is fine.
do I need to replace my oil pump
more often than not a clogged oil pickup tube at the bottom of the oil pan is usually your culprit or a leaking sending unit so the sending unit you can replace for about ten bucks and the oil pickup tube probably 30 $40 and maybe an hour's worth of time
JamieJones TheCarMan
@@jamiejonesthecarman HA An hours worth of time my ass. try doing that with the engine in place.
Yeah I probably under estimated that just a little bit it does take a little longer than an hour to definitely pull in oil pump in the car
Great info. Thanks.
Jim Capone No problem at all. Glad to hear that the video helped you out. We just decided to do a video on this project and separate it into several tutorials since its such a huge undertaking. Let us know if you ever have any questions or need some help.
How do test my oil pump? Or where should I start before assuming I have a bad oil pump?
I have enough oil, good oil sending unit.
What's the steps and procedures
Should i follow?
Thank very much for your video! Very helpful.
The Car stall when I hit the accelerator then go are on a 2007 Jeep Commander
Do I have to drop the oil pan to remove the oil pump? Or can remove it through The front?
Yes you have to drop the oil pan, and raise the engine with a hoist for enough clearance to remove the oil pan.
To remove the oil pump you go through the front. Behind the timing cover. No need to drop the pan to get to just the pump
Great video, I'm getting ready to do a timing chain and oil pump .. Does this 4.7 have crank seal when oil pan is pulled off like the chevys do ??? Thanks for all you do on here
Thanx
whats your other video I'm trying to get information on how to remove the complete oil pump.
+Heidie Rea this Google Search are named with the oil pump
Heidie Rea
Can i get the tube out from front of motor?
Thank you very much for the info.
Answered a lot of my questions.
Keep up the great work....
Normal wear I see that all the time in dirt bikes
It doesn't just slide right off. If you have a front differential, you're in for a world of hurt trying to get that oil pan off. That's the hellish nightmare I'm going through just to get the pan off to unbolt the pick up tube and etc, etc, etc. This is a TERRIBLE design for an oil pump pickup tube set up!
Jason S - im doing my 02 4.7 4x4 Dakota with 5spd manual tranny right now. Did u get yours done? If so, any tips or videos u found to help with dropping the front dif & steering rack? Definitely a poor design & a huge pain In the ass so far
This is why I stay a Chevy guy. Gonna sell my "Jeep" asap.
+Thanos LOL..can't say that I blame you man. Its honestly not too bad of a job though.
People trash jeeps cus they fail to do rtheygular matinence..Also the 4.7 with such short gearing and bad mpg it shifts at 2k maybe 2400. Thats normal driving..Now the once a week braaap to 4k is HEALTHY for this V8 helps prevent sludge
JamieJones TheCarMan hi guys. I checked my oil pressure on my jeep 3.7 it reads 30 psi at idle and I'm getting 95 psi at 3000rpm would you say that's good oil pressure I hope so because those oil pans on the liberty are a pain to drop (No clearance) thank you guys
Use Vaseline
Basically, he has no idea how it goes on
That’s right