The external derailer should be more efficient. Roller Chains are more efficient than Gears. Race motorcycles - I believe always have chains for this reason. Interesting that Victoria Motorcycles used chains & sprockets, instead of gears in their gearboxes.
3 x 9 speed, 44/32/22 and 11-36 teeth is a good ratio, good gears for going uphill and in general. The SHIMANO gear hubs do not have the really good gears for going steep uphills. Rohloff and Pinion are expensive, but good. The derailleur shiftig is cheap and good. Who is riding always in dirt and snow? Almost nobody. And for the price of a Rohloff or Pinion one can buy a lot of cassettes and chains. You want cheap and good shifting and gearing, go for Shimano derailleur shifting. You want the best gearing/shifting, then go for Rohloff or Pinion. You want to ride around a lot of flat grounds, you can go for Shimano gear hub (Nexus, Alfine) or Shimano derailleur shifting. I haven't had bad Shimano derailleurs and gearing. These parts last for long time when not crasing.
Commuting is mega-harsh on exposed chains in the Pacific Northwest for 5 months. Rain and wet snow at sea level and salt and all the mud from rain. Thousands commute on bikes through it.
@@theoverengineer understand that (you did good job ... much appreciated ) ... was looking on technical data on the web for belts to compare :/ ... it would be helpful if same version bikes do have belt option and you could ad to a list for more relevant comparison ... i also don't have any bikes available in the region to do measurements (not common)
I have a 2011 Norco Corsa 1. The bike cost a little more than a derailleur type but there has been zero cost to maintain the gearing/transmission bits. I've spent far more money and time fixing and adjusting my bikes with traditional 18 and 21 speed setups. Only thing I changed on the norco was the rear chain cog. It came with an 18 tooth cog, I swapped it out with a 16 tooth cog (under $10). I lost about 20% of my hill climbing ease and gained roughly 20% more speed, but since I use this one on level streets and paths I don't need the really low hill gears. Looked into a 3 ring crank which would give me the best of both worlds but then I'd need a new crank, a front derailleur, a flexible chain and a chain tensioner like that on the traditional rear derailleur. Too much money and bother.... www.norco.com/bike-archives/2011/corsa-1/
@@mosslimbayter277 I've got a 20t rear sprocket on mine, looking to jump up to a 23t as there's a lot of hills around here (18kg commuter bike, not the easiest thing to haul lol). Looking at what you said about the 20% difference I'm thinking I might have gone a little overboard with 23t!
A moderate alternative to installing a triple is a Patterson Drive at about $250. or an Efneo which will give you the equivalent of a 28-40-50 tooth crankset.
I was looking for an explanation of the relationship between the CR/Cog and the Internal hub gears. This was great! Thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
Exactly what I was looking for thanks!
Glad I could help!
Clever stuff! Thanks as that was very helpful.
The external derailer should be more efficient.
Roller Chains are more efficient than Gears.
Race motorcycles - I believe always have chains for this reason.
Interesting that Victoria Motorcycles used chains & sprockets, instead of gears in their gearboxes.
Thanks alot for your detailed explanation !
Cheers, mate!
Awesome video!
3 x 9 speed, 44/32/22 and 11-36 teeth is a good ratio, good gears for going uphill and in general. The SHIMANO gear hubs do not have the really good gears for going steep uphills. Rohloff and Pinion are expensive, but good. The derailleur shiftig is cheap and good. Who is riding always in dirt and snow? Almost nobody. And for the price of a Rohloff or Pinion one can buy a lot of cassettes and chains.
You want cheap and good shifting and gearing, go for Shimano derailleur shifting. You want the best gearing/shifting, then go for Rohloff or Pinion. You want to ride around a lot of flat grounds, you can go for Shimano gear hub (Nexus, Alfine) or Shimano derailleur shifting.
I haven't had bad Shimano derailleurs and gearing. These parts last for long time when not crasing.
Commuting is mega-harsh on exposed chains in the Pacific Northwest for 5 months. Rain and wet snow at sea level and salt and all the mud from rain. Thousands commute on bikes through it.
Priority bike with belt drive no chain👍
Thanks buddy. Very interesting.
Glad you enjoyed it
veri helpful indíd, ször! :)
So if you translate in teeth, that would be
for the highest gear: 18*0.527 = 9.486T
...
for the lowest gear: 18*1.615 = 29.07T
how fast would have been sufficient but thanks anyway
yeah.. to the point would have been better :)
what about belt driven? do the sprocket go as for the chain sprockets.
Same math, could be shaft drive (motorbike), belt or chain
@@theoverengineer understand that (you did good job ... much appreciated ) ... was looking on technical data on the web for belts to compare :/ ... it would be helpful if same version bikes do have belt option and you could ad to a list for more relevant comparison ... i also don't have any bikes available in the region to do measurements (not common)
No one youtuber try ride and test on real road how fastest it can
i am all for new and better things. the problem is the price and maintenance.
Very affordable, change oil inside once 5000 km (if I'm right)
I have a 2011 Norco Corsa 1. The bike cost a little more than a derailleur type but there has been zero cost to maintain the gearing/transmission bits. I've spent far more money and time fixing and adjusting my bikes with traditional 18 and 21 speed setups. Only thing I changed on the norco was the rear chain cog. It came with an 18 tooth cog, I swapped it out with a 16 tooth cog (under $10). I lost about 20% of my hill climbing ease and gained roughly 20% more speed, but since I use this one on level streets and paths I don't need the really low hill gears. Looked into a 3 ring crank which would give me the best of both worlds but then I'd need a new crank, a front derailleur, a flexible chain and a chain tensioner like that on the traditional rear derailleur. Too much money and bother....
www.norco.com/bike-archives/2011/corsa-1/
@@mosslimbayter277 I've got a 20t rear sprocket on mine, looking to jump up to a 23t as there's a lot of hills around here (18kg commuter bike, not the easiest thing to haul lol). Looking at what you said about the 20% difference I'm thinking I might have gone a little overboard with 23t!
A moderate alternative to installing a triple is a Patterson Drive at about $250. or an Efneo which will give you the equivalent of a 28-40-50 tooth crankset.
i think tranny is considered offensive now-a-days
It is as fast as the guy on the bike can go. It's not rocket science.😊