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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ต.ค. 2024
- 1997-2001 Jeep Cherokee XJ Manual Transmission Swap: The Procedure
Actually Driving the swap. AW4 to AX-15.
If you have any questions about any of this, don’t hesitate to just ask in the comments. Worst case scenario, I don’t know the answer. Note that I’m not as intelligible with older, pre-1996 years, but I might be able to help. If you’re asking a question be sure to please specify what year you have, as there are tons of seemingly unimportant differences with every model year.
I very much thank everyone who helped me along the way, I never could have accomplished this without these people:
Bryant Sapp: / @xj_overlander
KyleSVT: • Why Stick Shift Is The...
Kevin from Ironman4x4fab: • Ironman4x4fab: Jeep Ch...
JAYMAN0057: / @jayman0057
WranglerFix: wranglerfix.com/
If you're looking to do this yourself, check out the Document: docs.google.co...
You can Contact Bryant for a Sapp Industries Jeep Cherokee Multi-Application Center Pivot Output Shaft Mounted 12 Degree Counter Rotation Computer Rendered 3D Printed Universal Six-Stud Transfer Case Clocking Angle Establishment Offset Drillbit Stabilization Device V8.0 or a 3-D Printed Shift Boot Bezel here: partsbybryant@gmail.com
If you're confused about this seemingly context-lacking video, check out the actual introduction/ tutorial demonstration here: • Jeep Cherokee: Manual ...
AW4 Removal Procedure: • Jeep Cherokee - Transm...
Actually Doing the Manual Swap: • Jeep Cherokee: Manual ...
So I think the itinerary consists of the following:
-Sell the Comanche.
-Find an NV3550 and all related parts
-Get an NP231
-Install those things and be happy
So far, on that list, I'm at:
-Get new tires
-Replace the power steering pump
-Help Jay replace his Cylinder Head.
-Get a new job
So things are coming along nicely.
Operation MJ: • Jeep Comanche: Operati...
![Jeep Cherokee: Manual Swap - The Process ['97-'01 XJ] AW4 to AX-15](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/-NbOosVe0Rk/mqdefault.jpg)
![Jeep Cherokee: Manual Swap - The Process ['97-'01 XJ] AW4 to AX-15](/img/tr.png)
I’m literally half way through doing this same swap myself and then I find this series of vids… I’ve got 35s and 4.56 gears, hoping the gearing isn’t too much of an issue in low range. Thanks for the detailed vids brother they’re helpful especially on wiring the reverse lights
I’ve never had heat soak, not even when Seattle hit record high of 119 last summer, and i have AX-15. So it may well be the automatic generating significant extra heat.
I did install the electric 2nd fan, because sometimes the engine temp got higher than I was comfortable with (though replacing clutch on primary fan helped a lot).But, I wasn’t able to configure it OEM on wiring (fuse kept blowing on Engine bay fuse for it). So I just hooked it to directly to OEM switch and flip it on at need.
Thanks for the Azzys details. It’s interesting that you have to use the lowest hole on Tc lever, because Bryan (owner of Azzys) always says the top hole has to be used for 242. But when I tried it; the lever inside wasn’t aligning with the marked modes, and couldn’t get past 4WD full time. The Novak cable shifter looks promising, as there’s no angle concerns( but it’s about $190.
I’ve heard the 242 full time 4wd does help with driving in rain. Seattle area gets rain a LOT; and my xj has never handled it well, especially going up steep hills. So once I get the azzys set, and front drive shaft balanced then reinstalled, Ill see how it does.
(Courtesy reminder to others- make sure ALL the front drive shaft u joint bolts are on fully and torqued. Not having front ones correct results in xj shaking at high speeds, followed by front drive shaft popping off hard ; then bouncing on ground, trashing the front portion. On plus side; the front part is universal for manual or automatic shaft and can be replaced).
Heat soak only really happens on the 2000+ models, most prevolently on those with California Emissions where they have 2 catalytic converters in the engine bay. I've heard of it happening on older models but it's usually a Renix 4.0 with an exhaust leak. So you lucky 99- guys really don't have to worry about it
I'd love to hear your thoughts on the NP242's performance in the rain, I've personally found it handles relatively the same in the rain, but I also haven't done much rainy driving with it. When it does rain here I usually slow down instinctively and just keep er in 2wd. I might have some problems with this newfound torque breaking the back wheels free though, because I've actually been able to do that with the automatic. Next time it rains here I'll see how it does too (I'm also waiting on a front driveshaft)
@@WAEMIDIV I’m trying an experiment. I bought 2 Heims joints and a threaded rod that’s a little longer than what Azzys can do. The rod needs a bit of trimming, but then I’ll try it out in my xj and see how it works. At minimum, I won’t be on the verge of Heims joints dropping off the rod.
I had been issues with transfer case popping out of 2WD to an in between 2 and 4wd part time. Turns out the azzys lever on transfer case was hitting the case near the top. I used dremel to grind a bit off for clearance, and it doesn’t hit case anymore in 2WD.
One of my Heims joints has gotten almost rigid, so I’m ordering replacement from Azzys ($15 , so not bad). They also offer a longer rod option if needed; as well as shorter one. I’ll comment again after trying your configuration about how it is on mine
Hey Y’all! Been watching your conversion and I have a Jeep Comanche 4x4 Sportruck that I purchased New! I have put 254000 miles on that Baby! It is a manual 5 Speed Ax tranny and just had it rebuilt 4 years ago. The Only real issues were the ClutchSlave! Replaced that sucker 4 times. When the fluid comes out like your XJ did, that was it every time. Those slaves are made by Ford. Go figure. Right now My Baby is getting ready for camping ! I love my Jeep and is as stock as ever. It may be a a4 cylinder 1.5 but with the manual tranny , it is a tank in 4 low ! Good luck on your conversion! I have parts after 30+ years ! I will keep watching
Awesome man, congrats! I remember really enjoying my friend's manual XJ, it could float gears smooth as butter
My 01 Cherokee used to be a 2wd with a nv3550. I've since converted it to 4wd with a factory new ax15. Interestingly I didnt run into the issues with transmission mounts as you mentioned that could be a possibility.
The nv3550 is a better shifting transmission, but it has its own issues. Mine had 114k miles on it when I bought it and would whine bad in every gear except 4th and had the very annoying "rocks in a can" sound in neutral with the clutch engaged. Wasn't the throwout bearing as it had a new clutch, its just how many of the nv3550s sound by reports on forums. First hand parts for them arent made anymore as New venture folded years ago. You will also run into some interior parts issues. The shifting mechanism is totally different from the ax-15 and you will need to find a cherokee specific shifter and inner boot from a 00-01.
I'm not sure if you have the funding for it, but I can only say great things about the factory new AX-15s. Only changes you would need if you were to go that route is ask for the TC holes drilled to Cherokee spec (there's factory provisions for it, no strength lost) and you will need a Wrangler lower shifter stalk (its slightly longer than XJ's) to fit in the transmission shifter tower. You'll need to split the upper and lower half of a wrangler and Cherokee shifters and combine the two. You can also bend the one they give you to spec but I preferred factory. This will also give you the added side effect of a short throw shifter.
To add, the factory new ax-15s run for about 1700 dollars before taxes and shipping, its marginally more than rebuilding yours, but you get the added benefit of factory upgrades (higher torque rating than stock) and youll know the exact history of the transmission. No risk of damaged hard parts
Yeah I might just go with another AX-15 simply because of parts availability. I really like the idea of the synchronized reverse the NV3550 has and don't mind the noises, but finding parts for them is the hard thing. I'll ask around and do some research before hastily making a decision, thank you for your input
@@WAEMIDIV Yeah the reverse syncro is nice. How I deal it with the AX-15 is to either throw it in another gear to stop the shafts before going into reverse or the act as if its a really old school transmission and just put light pressure into reverse until it kicks in. I dont think youre really damaging much unless youre really abusing it. Its something that becomes second nature really quickly.
Feel free to reach out to me if you have any questions. My XJ was my first vehicle and in the past 5 years I've ran through every single nut and bolt in it. The trials and tribulations youre going through reminds me a lot of what I had to burn through and believe me, I dont want anyone to go through that lol.
@@9821nick That's a good advice
I think my image of the AX-15 is somewhat tainted because this is the only one I've ever driven. If I had a chance to drive a nice one that hasn't been beat worse than my ex used to beat me, I think I'd probably like it a bit more.
So what made you switch to an AX, just better parts availability?
@@WAEMIDIV Ha, lol been there. But yeah, my AX shifts good and is quiet and I've run it really hard and hot in sand dunes. Its a little "notchy" in comparison to the NV and second gear can be a little stiff when cold but im also spoiled so take that as you will. It does however take "spirited" driving and shifting very well. I have never had a forward gear grind or require significant effort to engage. From my experience, its a very enjoyable transmission and I wouldnt do anything different.
What pushed me to the AX was a few things. Finding a cherokee manual transmission is very difficult where I'm at and the ones that pop up are pretty junky and worn out so I would have to get it rebuilt ontop of buying it (pushing me to a factory new one). A reman'ed nv3550 with core charge was 1700 dollars, the same price as a upgraded factory new ax15 thats arguably stronger and likely more reliable. These ax-15s have the same architecture as what was put in Supras back in the day and can take a beating.
Parts availability was also a component. I dont think my transmission will be rebuilt anytime soon, but if it ever needed to be, there's parts made from the factory for it to this day.
If you do go down the route of a new AX-15, change the gear oil about once a year for the first couple years atleast, there's quite a bit of wear in and you might get spooked by the shavings you see. Its normal though and hasnt given me any issues.
yea, i get heat soak issues on my xj frequent enough to be annoying, luckily i do mostly highway driving so once im done, im out of the car for a long while so it does not happen too often but with summer around the corner i expect it to happen alot more.
im also really looking forward to your review of the 242 with the manual, looking to have a xj with this exact setup at some point and im planning on swapping out my 231 for a 242 at some point with my automatic just because i like the idea of having that extra capability, i dont get snow like you do down here but id still like it if i can get one.
If your looking to get a 231 transfercase then id suggest the junkyard, fairly cheep without breaking the bank and you hopefully wont have to sell the Comanche.
looking forward to more videos man, keep up the good work!
BTW.. if you engine is tweaking side to side, replace the motor mounts. I had to and it worked wonders!
Pretty awesome videos mate! Thank you!
Very cool Project! Manual FTW
It's the man himself!! I've been subscribed to you for years, I can't believe I am worthy of your viewership!
@@WAEMIDIV Thanks brother!! Watched your other video on the fuel pump and thinking maybe the previous owner bought the wrong pump on the new comanche I just bought.
@@KyleSVT Yup it seems to be a common mistake, because the XJ pump fits but isn't quite right. There's a company called "MTS Company" that makes OEM MJ fuel pumps that's where I got mine
I also relocated the ground to the upper bolt for the fuel filter, bringing it much closer to the battery compared to the stock grounding point behind the driver's tail light. The ground wire not having a solid connection can cause the pumps to burn up, a previous owner of mine said he replaced the damn thing like 7 times before giving up and selling it
@@WAEMIDIV Awesome thanks for the info! I tested the fuel pump connector and with the key in the on position just before starting and I only get 9v so maybe that is also an issue.
I'll bet the cable shifter kit from Novak would help with that transfer case linkage issue. Not knocking the Azzy at all, it's awesome- but this specific combo may require something linear instead of a pivoting linkage. Just thinking out loud :)
Yep the cable linkage would work, even Azzy admitted that, but I don't wanna pull out the carpet just to have a nice shifting transfer case. This will work for now, but I think I'm gonna go back to an NP231
Wow! Never seen this before
I've got a solenoid in my trans that went bad and now I'm going down this road. You know living that jeep life. btw do you think that a lift with a trans drop kit would help with the 4x4 shifter?
Firstly you'll only have issues with the 4wd linkage if you specifically have an AX-15 and NP242. Any other combination of transmission and transfer case doesn't have any issues.
a transfer case drop kit could theoretically help, but they cause other issues for the transmission shifter- there are reports of the gear lever not fully engaging 2nd or 4th gear with a transfer case drop because the lever hits the center console or something
I have a 95 2 door xj with the ax-15 and I'll agree with everything you said except for wanting 3.07's if you go any bigger on your tires you will regret it. With 31 inch tires the ax-15 is a chore to drive in any traffic and 5th gear is basically unusable. Also, my second gear is a little hard to get into while cold and the noise you're likely hearing going into reverse is due to reverse being the only gear with no sycros the nv3550 does have a reverse sycro though if it makes it any better. Going into reverse is best done by shifting into first before reverse, I think that gear is sycronized with reverse.
Yep I'm gonna go from stock 28" tires to 29" tires and was warned about the 3.07s. I'm never gonna lift and modify the thing, it'll always be mostly stock, but what turned me off from the 3.07s was how they aren't usable offroad. I love them for highway driving, but they can't accomplish anything offroad even in a stock vehicle, I've experienced that myself.
I'll get used to 3.55s but I still think it is a tad steep for a stock Jeep. I wish there was a ratio in between those, like 3.31 for example. I think that'd be ideal but the carrier doesn't exist for an 8.25.
I'll try that 1st gear/ reverse thing and see if it helps, that's a good idea
A big reason I really wanted an NV3550 was for the synchronized reverse but I can live without it, its just a cool feature. If they were easier to find and cheaper I would totally get an NV but my main argument for keeping the AX is parts availability.
@@WAEMIDIV I'm swapping 3.73's into my jeep next month hopefully if you want my 3.07's but I don't know if they'll work high pinion Dana 30 and Dana 35 rear.
@@sharp531 lol I've got the only axles they won't work for, Dana 30 LP and Chrysler 8.25 for me. Thank you for the offer though
I think re-gearing is beyond my mechanical ability currently so I'll just get used to the 3.55s. I'm actually at the tire shop right now waiting for some 235 tires, which will make a small difference compared to the 225 tires I got now
BRO I just tried the 1st/Reverse trick and holy shit!! IT WORKS! First gear is perfectly synced with Reverse and it slides in effortlessly after selecting 1st.
I've always had problems with every 5 speed I've owned not going into Reverse cooperatively (cough cough... BA10/5...) and this has literally cured that entirely, I love you
@@WAEMIDIV Glad I could help. I forget where I learned that trick but I know it's mostly for japanese transmissions.
Nice. My daily is a manual 79f150 4x4 300. I've never owned any auto in my 45yrs until the 98 XJ. .. eh... it's ok i guess... just... ya. ha.
I have a strange transmission problem in my 97 XJ, I used to reach 60 mph at a bit less than 2k rpm, then I had to change the transmission as it started to delay shifting, the replacement transmission shifts smoothly but I get to 60 mph at 2.8k rpm and I’m sure that I’m on 4th gear! This affects my fuel economy for sure and my ability to go above 70mph. What do you think is the problem with my transmission?
Sounds like the NSS is misadjusted and you're in 3rd gear. There is a torque converter lock that engages around 35 mph that looks and feels like a gear shift, but is not.
I reckon the NSS falsely thinks you have the gear lever in 3 instead of D and thus locks you out of 4th gear. Either that or the solenoid that engages 4th is bad
@@WAEMIDIV what’s the NSS? Neutral Speed Sensor? My transmission has 1 sensor (it’s a 1997 XJ), is that the one?
@BlackbeardRider990 NSS = Neutral Safety Switch. It is on the passenger side of the transmission and is what tells the computer which gear the lever is positioned in. It is what allows the vehicle to start only while in Park/Neutral, activates your Reverse lights, enables and disables Cruise control, and allows 4th gear to be chosen
@@WAEMIDIV can it be purchased separately? I might just buy a new one and the solenoid then give it a shot before swapping out the whole transmission. What do you think?
@@WAEMIDIV but it can’t be the TPS, right? It’s irrelevant that the TPS might be the reason for what’s going on. A couple of technicians overhere said that if not the TPS then get a use transmission and swap it, but I don’t trust what they’re saying
try the transfer case cable conversion kit for a jeep tj from savvy offroad. i put it on my 96 cherokee and going into 4wd is like butter by far one of the best mods ive out on my jeep. and why not up date the comanche to the 91 and newer high output 4.0 with the open coolant system and swap out what i assume is the ba10 transmission for that ax15 if your going to put the 3550 in your cherokee?
Yep I've heard of the cable shifter and I totally could throw one in, but meh, I'm thinking about getting a 231 again. I don't like how the gear backlash of the 242 feels it makes me cringe, and having AWD isn't that necessary to me - it sure is nice, but I don't think I *need* it
The MJ does have a closed loop cooling system and the very long list of things to do does include a cooling system conversion. I already have an overflow tank on standby, but the cooling system is not currently causing any problems.
The BA10/5 needs to go, but the problem is when the previous owner had it out last time he snapped all 4 crossmember bolts and cut open the frame to get them out. He put new bolts and nuts in, but didn't bother to weld those nuts to the frame, and then sealed the frame shut again, so any attempt to remove the transmission will mean the frame needs to be cut open so that's immediately a way bigger project than it needs to be.
An AX-15 swap is on the list, but it's not as simple as slapping one in and driving off. It needs a different pilot bearing, crossemember, and I'll of course need another adaptor plate which go for $300 nowadays because for some reason, nobody is reproducing them
The truck also needs a read axle, don't wanna put another Dana 35 in it, and ideally I'd fine a Dana 44 but they're uber rare for MJs and that would most likely mean a custom fab job for a Cheysler 8.25 swap. That includes new leaf springs because one of them is broken, and MJ leafs are also stupid expensive
It also needs a new exhaust manifold and potentially a cylinder head, previous owner broke some of the manifold bolts inside the head and it therefore doesn't seal properly. A new manifold means may as well get the rest of the exhaust, a flowmaster, etc.
The brake and reverse lights don't work, the doors don't seal right, gotta bypass the CAD system, it desperately needs new tires as the ones it has are 18 years old, and while all of this would make great content for the Operation MJ Series I also don't have the money, time, or motivation to do it all - because at the end of the day, after the weeks and thousands invested, it's still gonna be a rusty pos truck.
@@WAEMIDIV yeah that's a bit of work i have an 87 mj long bed that I've been in the process of essentially make it a 96 mj. side note I'm not sure but i think mine has the 44 from the pictures in one of your previous videos. I'm going to use my horrifically rotted out xj as a doner jeep for most of my parts like Moter wire harness and use the dana 35 temporarily since it has the 3:55s and I want to do a leaf over axle conversion for the 3inches and probably going to use the front as well. thank you for the videos you put up they are super helpful in figuring all this stuff out.
Did you ever find a work around to get the high idle to work with the swap?
@hannahvaipulu3631 nope, the programming for it doesn't exist in the manual ECM software. I have heard of people modifying the cruise control to accomplish a similar thing with extended idle, but I don't find it useful enough to justify all that
I did the swap, but for some reason, I feel my clutch pedal is hard to push, what do you think can be causing that?
I think a bad pressure plate may be the culprit, in my new 01 5 speed the clutch is abnormally heavy and it makes my leg sore to press it constantly
I've yet to replace the pressure plate so I'll see if my theory is correct
Do a leak down test before you keep calling it heat soak. What you're describing could be exhaust valves not seating correctly.
Well considering it's completely and utterly nonexistant now, and the only thing I changed was the manual transmission, I think it's safe to say it was heat soak.
I also don't think wrapping the injectors in heat shielding or using the electric fan after shutdown would help alleviate bad exhaust valves
this is actually a video
naw not really
...will wait for the resurfacing of the mj flywheel.
Had commented mid vid, but when you said trans fluid may be leaking did you mean gear oil?
My knowledge base pretty much stops at obd2 but didn't think that changed.
When you swap to the nv3550 you'll be ready to go when the mj births a ⚓ ;P
@@d.sm.4146 Yeah that AX takes gear oil, GL-4 not technically transmission fluid
I just called it that because it's fluid that's in the transmission.
How’s the gas mileage so far?
@@paltieri11 honestly the same, I think that's because I still have the Automatic gearing
I would definitely disconnect the shift light they're so annoying.
I love the thing, I don't know why. But yeah all it takes is just removing the bulb
@@WAEMIDIV it tells you to shift way too early.
@@Mattmazz77 oh yeah, especially with the 3.55 gears. it's not aligned right because the computer has no way to tell whether the axles are 3.07s or not.
If I follow what it says it puts me in 5th gear at 35mph, which is obviously way too soon but the engine has enough torque and can handle it. It's at like 1300rpm but it *can* do it. Not ideal though.
If you have 3.07 gears, the upshift light tells you when to shift for the best fuel economy. I think it's a pretty nifty little feature; I like the small details on the XJ nobody pays attention to.
But yeah mine doesn't really make sense, and although that renders it entirely useless, I do still like it. Maybe I'll get sick of it someday, but I've found it's not that hard to ignore either
@@WAEMIDIV all cars shift lights are designed for best fuel efficiency. It really doesn't matter the gear ratios, I understand what you're saying but no matter what they all tell you to shift way too early. I have an audi a4 with the 6sp manual and I wish I could figure out how to turn that dam thing off..lol.