Alright. I went for it. I bought the preassembled knob gateron red switch Q3. Out of the box there was an issue where one key press would show up on screen as twenty key presses but with a quick reset button press, that issue was fixed. I replaced the keycaps with something that was a bit nicer to the eye and had more design (Outer Space PBT on Amazon). I also bought poly fil from amazon (very cheap). I took the back of the keyboard off and FILLED the case with poly fil. I put a very healthy amount in there. Screwed it back together and I'm using it on a desk mat made out of mouse pad material, and man I couldn't be happier. I love this keyboard and the sound so much. I even bought a number pad with matching keycaps, looking forward to modding that as well :) If you're worried about dropping money on your first legit keyboard, feel safe with this one. I feel like I got my money's worth 100%. Total cost with mods 240$ U.S.D. as of 10/22.
You outdid yourself on this review. Still decent humour without it going overboard and the sound breakdown was fantastic. Killed it my guy. You really broke down the concept of "tuning" a board rather then broad brush stroking every board with the same plan and material.
One thing I absolutely love about your videos are the scientific parts! This science has actually helped me in school lol. Never remove it and much love from China!
I agree, it has the entertaining and satisfying factor backed up by scientific facts. I learned a lot and gained new understanding about things i have little knowledge on or ones i dont at all... Great content if i say so myself 💯 I forgor school when i finished school type, i guess thats also a reason lol.💀
I absolutely love the technical breakdowns you give into the sound dampening of the different types of foam! Thank you for making this detailed info so easy to understand.
The breakdown of sounds and how to alter them is amazing. This is something I wish I would’ve known when I first got into mechanical keyboards, but at least I have it now. Hopefully this video and information will be referenced often. I’ll be sure to share it when this topic is brought up. You’ve got a new subscriber.
thank you for the tips! I have a new Q3 and I just did tape mod with a few layers of painter tape on back of PCB and then a few small double layers of tape on frame near screw holes etc, as you did. I was also cautious as I tightened the two halves of the case together as I don't want to overcompress the silicon or the tape. I made sure they were snugged and secured well. Just not super torqued down alot. I noticed as I was unscrewing the two halves for the first time that the screws were not very tight for that same reason I think. Thanks again! *edit: I went with Keychron OEM PBT 1.6mm thick Dye Sub because I got the barebone keyboard. I love this keyboard!
YES! a decent TKL keyboard with a knob! I hate the smaller form factors because I use the cursor keys and especially the 6 key island above it all the time, ALL THE TIME 😀
something to note about the switch on the front and the ability to use VIA. they dont tell you this in the manual for these boards but, 2 of your 4 layers are reserved for when your boards switch is set to windows and the other 2 reserved for the "MAC" switch. i learned this when i thought my board wouldnt program but i was using the wrong layer when i was in windows mode on the board.
@@jackasad2180 yes, you have 4 layers total to customize how you want. But layers 2&3 are reserved for when your keyboards switch on the back is set to Windows
@@jackasad2180 it’s strange because you can program later 0 and it works for the main layer for your board for both Mac/win, but layer 1 only works if flipped to MAC on your board. 2 and 3 are the WIN only layers.
Actually, Blacksimon proved that removing the force break entirely eliminates the ping (you can see it in his vod about the Q3 on youtube). I found out that the ping on the OG Q1 came from the top case being too thin in the areas such as the one between the F row and the number row and the top gaskets not being compressed (in my unit i could eliminate the ping just by pressing the area between the F4 and F5 keys and F8 and F9 keys), and this is also the reason why the Q2 had much less ping overall. This issue was solved (reduced a lot) on the Q3 by making the top much thicker in those areas, as you can at 9:06 (making it ping by hand unbuilt does not count, it isn't accurate to the finished board), so there isn't really a need for the force break mod imo (you can also make it work on the OG Q1 by installing the top gaskets in the area between the F row and the number row, which makes them compress more and therefore reducing ping). I personally like the sound of this configuration a lot more as it makes it less hollow, deeper and fuller to my ears, but I guess many people still enjoy the force break; it is something very interesting to note nonetheless.
I just tried removing the silicon pads, but it made my Q3 sound quite pingy. However, push slightly the metal between the arrows, and the delete-end-pgdn this keyboard sounds perfect (like my Q6) Now I wonder if a heavy filler would solve my problem...
I run my Q1(no knob) with NK creams, DMK keycaps, stock aluminum plate. Then for mods, I use tape mod, 1mm silicone sheet, force break mod using KBDfans stab dampener. The result is no pinging and hollowness. Sound profile is clacky. I plan to do the same when I get Q3 (no knob version).
intro is too rich! Had some flashbacks to when I was trying to help my dad pair his phone with his car circa 2010, couldn’t even distinguish between yes and no responses, oh man! Loving the content and the science behind the sound! Those box inks are great, lubed and filmed some for myself after your original review, and am really enjoying them after a lighter spring swap
LOL that dedicated button for Cortana has been on Keychron's board for awhile now, I think atleast for TKLs and up. And as always, the technical breakdown is fantastic and insightful!
really enjoy the more scientific explanations to sound modifying of keyboards. New into the hobby and I hear of all these different kinds of foams and felts and approaches and people show the results but not what is best used in what situation. Currently have Tecware Phantom 110 (?) (the full size cause I need the numpad) and added some felt I bought from the dollar store to the bottom of the case + the case foam. Can't remember if it did anything lmao but I want it thockier so from your video seems like I might need to try a pe foam (since I want to eliminate high freq.) and tape mod and remove the felt...hmmmm
Hi. Again, third time in row, the most knowledgeable videos about keyboards and the nature of sound. Really appreciate what are you doing here. Very good content.
Just got a Q3 for my little brother for Christmas and was fairly disappointed in the acoustics out of the box. A little masking tape really goes a long way! Board sounds fantastic now, thanks for the video.
Great review and 'science time'! I recently purchased a Q3 and its good...but...after doing the force break mod, its great! I made no other mods and for me, I am set! Thanks @Keybored !
you've been an absolute legend when it comes to the Q-series, thanks for all the info. do you have any thoughts on the plastic-wrapped 'standoffs' on the top plate (visible at 9:06), what they do and their effectiveness? on my Q1, 2 of the 3 standoffs broke off !
Have you ever used melted paraffin wax as a solid filler? I'm trying it now on a cheap board and find it effective. Best part is that it only costs $2 per board(much cheaper than silicone). I use just under half a pound of wax per board. The wax can be found at most hobby stores for about $5 a pound. It melts easy and be easily trimmed back once dry. It doesn't hurt plastic boards when poured. Use silicone to fill any holes to prevent leaking. The silicone can easily withstand the heat of the melted wax. The long term effects are still up in the air. I'll open my board up in a year to see if it has cracked into smaller pieces. So far it's remaining intact.
I'm really late to this party, but maybe someone might chime in with an answer. The video and comments state that two layers of tape are applied for the force break; what's unclear to me is if these layers are meant to be on top of the existing silicone layers or in place of them. Any guidance?
you could essentially go to the auto parts store and buy a roll of gasket material. the gasket material will also insulate the aluminum from the resonant frequencies. gasket thickness comes in many different sizes. i work on lots of things and have had to make my own gasket many times. you can call it RFB mod, short for resonant frequency break mod. i think it sounds a bit better than force break mod imho. super simple effective easy fix though. good vid sir, im just starting to get into keyboards myself. im looking to do a first build as i game alot. the 2 switches ive come to love the sound of are cannonkeys lavender and durock poms. i like novel key creams sound but i think the 2 i mentioned sound better. i like a deeper thock much more than a louder clack. to me coming from automobiles you may laugh but this is how i look at the clack and thock. the clack reminds me of a engine having a lifter tick. much higher pitched ticking sound. the thock reminds me of a rod knock. a much deeper sound found in the lower end of the motor. so the clack is more of a tick sound while the thock is more of a deep knock. i cant wait to pick out my first board as i wanna do some experiments with sound and different materials. possibly use unconventional materials for insulation as well. either way it'll be interesting thats for sure. good video and i look forward to more. ps i do not want a know on my keyboard and i would like to have a nice brass weight.
Thank you for this excellent review, you helped me decide and i now ordered my first mechanical and custom keyboard. Im extremely excited to get to feel a mechanical switch on my own desk, i have those razer ornata weird membrane switches atm but once the biard is delivered no more
Really love your videos + the scientific explanation behind it. Just a question tho, should the plate foam be included or not included if I wanna go for a thocky build? Or the plate foam is thin enough that it blocks out the high frequency sound waves instead?
@@Keybored Ah I see thank you for the info! Let's say if I were to use different softer plates like the FR4/PC/POM plate, should the foam be included to achieve that thock?
thank you for the videos, top notch! thumbs up... thoughts on potentially using a very thin o ring that would essentially sit around the screw hole or slide over the screw itself?? -instead of tape near the screw holes
@@Keybored say, do you have any tricks to safely remove very tight keycaps? Specifically long keycaps that's stuck to the stab (spacebar, shift, enter and backspace). I broke my custom acrylic plate due to my own ignorance 🤣 luckily I had spares. Haven't used it yet though.
Hey have you considered addint a O-Ring to all the screws in between the Top and bottom cases? Maybe you get a millimeter of more space for the Kilmat aswell as the case isolation?
I did this for the GMMK pro before, but I don't think it's necessary for this board. With the force break, the thin foam below was good enough to keep the pinging at bay!
I just bought the Q3 (not first batch) with the knob and there's no pinging on my board. I did the test you did and the ringing isn't there anymore. I think they changed the dampeners from the initial run and changed it out to newer thicker dampeners.
Thank you for this very informative video. I'm looking for a TKL keyboard and this one seems to be decent and its flaws easily fixable. One question re: the "tape force break fix" to acoustically decouple the upper and lower part of the case: You seem to be using blue painter's tape for this. Are there any brands/types that are better for this job than others? If so, which ones?
Nope, you can use blue, or standard masking tape as well! Basically, you're creating a very small gap between the top and bottom to create a "break" for force to travel to and from. We do this a lot in engineering (I.E. Thermal Break) to prevent energy from one source from traveling to another
What do you think should be done to mod the newer version of the Q1 (with knob)? I’ve added layers of tape and done the force break mod with polyfill at the bottom yet it’s still hollow and the flex is gone. Any suggestions?
Weird because I got rid of the hollowness with the force break mod and polyfill. I also got rid of the 2 thin pieces of foam on the bottom. It flexes like a mf now
Correct me if im wrong. So the force break mod just remove the ping sound when typing but the top case still ping if we try to tick it right? Because i actually consider to add lead tape to add weight to the top case but end up abandon the idea because i dont think there is enough space to really add weight and the weight added maybe is not that much haha. So it is fine right if typing sound is good while the top case still in that pingy condition haha.
What specifically material did they use for the plate foam and bottom case and is it easy to change it to poron. I'm looking forward to buy this or the akko mod 007v2
The freebird will probably be more enthusiast geared and the Q series to me feels a lot more entry level. Plus more plate options, and personally I think tsangan is a better layout for the TKL
Alright. I went for it. I bought the preassembled knob gateron red switch Q3. Out of the box there was an issue where one key press would show up on screen as twenty key presses but with a quick reset button press, that issue was fixed. I replaced the keycaps with something that was a bit nicer to the eye and had more design (Outer Space PBT on Amazon). I also bought poly fil from amazon (very cheap). I took the back of the keyboard off and FILLED the case with poly fil. I put a very healthy amount in there. Screwed it back together and I'm using it on a desk mat made out of mouse pad material, and man I couldn't be happier. I love this keyboard and the sound so much. I even bought a number pad with matching keycaps, looking forward to modding that as well :) If you're worried about dropping money on your first legit keyboard, feel safe with this one. I feel like I got my money's worth 100%. Total cost with mods 240$ U.S.D. as of 10/22.
That intro 😅. The sound breakdown and results you got for this board were amazing!
Haha glad you liked it! Intros are fun but so hard to think of :)
i see mathew is addicted to keyboards. lollll
@@TAKUMISEGI GG
You outdid yourself on this review. Still decent humour without it going overboard and the sound breakdown was fantastic. Killed it my guy. You really broke down the concept of "tuning" a board rather then broad brush stroking every board with the same plan and material.
Thank you so much for the feedback! The intros have been hard for me to come up with but hopefully I can keep them up!
One thing I absolutely love about your videos are the scientific parts! This science has actually helped me in school lol. Never remove it and much love from China!
:) Thank you and welcome!
I agree, it has the entertaining and satisfying factor backed up by scientific facts. I learned a lot and gained new understanding about things i have little knowledge on or ones i dont at all...
Great content if i say so myself 💯
I forgor school when i finished school type, i guess thats also a reason lol.💀
you really go above and beyond with these reviews, it makes you stand out immensely. i love this channel
Thank you Coluzea! I really appreciate the support and the comments!
I absolutely love the technical breakdowns you give into the sound dampening of the different types of foam! Thank you for making this detailed info so easy to understand.
The breakdown of sounds and how to alter them is amazing. This is something I wish I would’ve known when I first got into mechanical keyboards, but at least I have it now.
Hopefully this video and information will be referenced often. I’ll be sure to share it when this topic is brought up.
You’ve got a new subscriber.
thank you for the tips! I have a new Q3 and I just did tape mod with a few layers of painter tape on back of PCB and then a few small double layers of tape on frame near screw holes etc, as you did. I was also cautious as I tightened the two halves of the case together as I don't want to overcompress the silicon or the tape. I made sure they were snugged and secured well. Just not super torqued down alot. I noticed as I was unscrewing the two halves for the first time that the screws were not very tight for that same reason I think.
Thanks again! *edit: I went with Keychron OEM PBT 1.6mm thick Dye Sub because I got the barebone keyboard. I love this keyboard!
YES! a decent TKL keyboard with a knob!
I hate the smaller form factors because I use the cursor keys and especially the 6 key island above it all the time, ALL THE TIME 😀
The force break mod completely changed the sound of my keyboard in a positive sense! :) Thank you so much!
bro you literally have the best keyboard mod vids on yt most just say add foam but you actually break down why to add foam keep it up man
Great video. Your mods are amazing. And the sound quality... legendary
Thank you!
@14:17 That must be so satisfying to type on. Still on a membrane keyboard myself but tempted by the world of mechs.
something to note about the switch on the front and the ability to use VIA. they dont tell you this in the manual for these boards but, 2 of your 4 layers are reserved for when your boards switch is set to windows and the other 2 reserved for the "MAC" switch. i learned this when i thought my board wouldnt program but i was using the wrong layer when i was in windows mode on the board.
is this something that we do on the software?
@@jackasad2180 yes, you have 4 layers total to customize how you want. But layers 2&3 are reserved for when your keyboards switch on the back is set to Windows
@@MrSkullhead0 so for 1 and 4 is free right?
@@jackasad2180 it’s strange because you can program later 0 and it works for the main layer for your board for both Mac/win, but layer 1 only works if flipped to MAC on your board. 2 and 3 are the WIN only layers.
Actually, Blacksimon proved that removing the force break entirely eliminates the ping (you can see it in his vod about the Q3 on youtube). I found out that the ping on the OG Q1 came from the top case being too thin in the areas such as the one between the F row and the number row and the top gaskets not being compressed (in my unit i could eliminate the ping just by pressing the area between the F4 and F5 keys and F8 and F9 keys), and this is also the reason why the Q2 had much less ping overall. This issue was solved (reduced a lot) on the Q3 by making the top much thicker in those areas, as you can at 9:06 (making it ping by hand unbuilt does not count, it isn't accurate to the finished board), so there isn't really a need for the force break mod imo (you can also make it work on the OG Q1 by installing the top gaskets in the area between the F row and the number row, which makes them compress more and therefore reducing ping). I personally like the sound of this configuration a lot more as it makes it less hollow, deeper and fuller to my ears, but I guess many people still enjoy the force break; it is something very interesting to note nonetheless.
I just tried removing the silicon pads, but it made my Q3 sound quite pingy.
However, push slightly the metal between the arrows, and the delete-end-pgdn this keyboard sounds perfect (like my Q6)
Now I wonder if a heavy filler would solve my problem...
I run my Q1(no knob) with NK creams, DMK keycaps, stock aluminum plate. Then for mods, I use tape mod, 1mm silicone sheet, force break mod using KBDfans stab dampener. The result is no pinging and hollowness. Sound profile is clacky. I plan to do the same when I get Q3 (no knob version).
Good luck! I hope it turns out great
@@Keybored thanks! Your review is my go to because I like the scientific approach. Keep it up!
intro is too rich! Had some flashbacks to when I was trying to help my dad pair his phone with his car circa 2010, couldn’t even distinguish between yes and no responses, oh man! Loving the content and the science behind the sound! Those box inks are great, lubed and filmed some for myself after your original review, and am really enjoying them after a lighter spring swap
Keychron making the same keyboard for every form factor 😎 excited for the alice board
Yup! The Q1 getting smaller then bigger!
I’m def picking up the Alice board! Seems like an affordable entry into the layout
I was excited at first, but I'm not personally a big fan of the extra g and b, but arisu w/knob is a pretty great value proposition
@@EatSleepSquint They ran a poll on their official discord and they’re removing the extra G and opt for a conventional alice layout instead
@@arethas6537 are they keeping the second b?
You are the best keyboard TH-camr. And it’s relaxing to see your videos. Keep up the good work.
That intro was the best thing I've seen all day, and probably all year. Keep it up!
Haha thank you for the kind words!
LOL that dedicated button for Cortana has been on Keychron's board for awhile now, I think atleast for TKLs and up. And as always, the technical breakdown is fantastic and insightful!
i swear, any board that gets in your hands turns into an amazing sounding board. you are magic.
Haven't even watched the vid yet and I already know it's gonna be a banger 😎
Haha, I hope you feel that way after the vid!
really enjoy the more scientific explanations to sound modifying of keyboards. New into the hobby and I hear of all these different kinds of foams and felts and approaches and people show the results but not what is best used in what situation. Currently have Tecware Phantom 110 (?) (the full size cause I need the numpad) and added some felt I bought from the dollar store to the bottom of the case + the case foam. Can't remember if it did anything lmao but I want it thockier so from your video seems like I might need to try a pe foam (since I want to eliminate high freq.) and tape mod and remove the felt...hmmmm
Hi. Again, third time in row, the most knowledgeable videos about keyboards and the nature of sound. Really appreciate what are you doing here. Very good content.
Thank you! I really appreciate it!
Really liked the video, great explanation of why the q3 sounds the way it does and how to fix it. Can't wait to try it out myself!
Hope it was helpful and good luck!
Thanks for the review! Always appreciate the science lesson!
I got my Q3 yesterday - will be following this advice!
I love your intro skits
Thank you! They're challenging to think of haha
Great review - thank you for the modding tips too! Will be replicating this on my board as well :)
Loved the explanation of different fillers for different case needs! Keep up the great work.
:) Thank you for the support!
Thanks for the force break tip! Did the same mods and now my Q3 sounds much much better.
Always the best videos my man good stuff
Thanks!
Bravo! Excellent video on the topic!
Just got a Q3 for my little brother for Christmas and was fairly disappointed in the acoustics out of the box. A little masking tape really goes a long way! Board sounds fantastic now, thanks for the video.
I honestly just think your'e the goat at this point. No one does what you do Keybored. Keep it up.
:) I really appreciate it!
I’ve been waiting for this
Hope the video shows the details well!
Your videos are always so high effort and amazing quality keep upt hte good work :)
4:25 that sounds like a train crossing thing
Hahahaha you're right!
I think they should definitely add different plat options sold separately. That would give it a better range of sound profiles
I wish you showed how easy or how difficult it is to use that knob in that tight space.
Love the technical stuff.
I hope you make a video on the Q6 when that comes out :))
Great review and 'science time'! I recently purchased a Q3 and its good...but...after doing the force break mod, its great! I made no other mods and for me, I am set! Thanks @Keybored !
:) Glad to be of help!
you've been an absolute legend when it comes to the Q-series, thanks for all the info. do you have any thoughts on the plastic-wrapped 'standoffs' on the top plate (visible at 9:06), what they do and their effectiveness? on my Q1, 2 of the 3 standoffs broke off !
Ahh these :) they're guide pins essentially to help align the frame to the plate.
Late to this video but thank you alot for showing this stuff, really helps a beginner
I poured silicone everytime my board sounded hollow or pingy. But thanks to you, I know whether to pour silicone or to cut some foam. Great content!
Thank you!
Waiting for both the Q4 and Q5, hopefully you get to review them as well. Love your videos!
when they will come available?
Have you ever used melted paraffin wax as a solid filler? I'm trying it now on a cheap board and find it effective. Best part is that it only costs $2 per board(much cheaper than silicone). I use just under half a pound of wax per board. The wax can be found at most hobby stores for about $5 a pound. It melts easy and be easily trimmed back once dry. It doesn't hurt plastic boards when poured. Use silicone to fill any holes to prevent leaking. The silicone can easily withstand the heat of the melted wax. The long term effects are still up in the air. I'll open my board up in a year to see if it has cracked into smaller pieces. So far it's remaining intact.
Haha, Hipyo talked about this the other day. Perhaps he can try it out and let all of us know!
I'm really late to this party, but maybe someone might chime in with an answer. The video and comments state that two layers of tape are applied for the force break; what's unclear to me is if these layers are meant to be on top of the existing silicone layers or in place of them. Any guidance?
you could essentially go to the auto parts store and buy a roll of gasket material. the gasket material will also insulate the aluminum from the resonant frequencies. gasket thickness comes in many different sizes. i work on lots of things and have had to make my own gasket many times. you can call it RFB mod, short for resonant frequency break mod. i think it sounds a bit better than force break mod imho. super simple effective easy fix though. good vid sir, im just starting to get into keyboards myself. im looking to do a first build as i game alot. the 2 switches ive come to love the sound of are cannonkeys lavender and durock poms. i like novel key creams sound but i think the 2 i mentioned sound better. i like a deeper thock much more than a louder clack. to me coming from automobiles you may laugh but this is how i look at the clack and thock. the clack reminds me of a engine having a lifter tick. much higher pitched ticking sound. the thock reminds me of a rod knock. a much deeper sound found in the lower end of the motor. so the clack is more of a tick sound while the thock is more of a deep knock. i cant wait to pick out my first board as i wanna do some experiments with sound and different materials. possibly use unconventional materials for insulation as well. either way it'll be interesting thats for sure. good video and i look forward to more. ps i do not want a know on my keyboard and i would like to have a nice brass weight.
I find it funny that this frame right here 11:07 is a meme in early 2023
Thank you for this excellent review, you helped me decide and i now ordered my first mechanical and custom keyboard. Im extremely excited to get to feel a mechanical switch on my own desk, i have those razer ornata weird membrane switches atm but once the biard is delivered no more
Low-key made the warning sound before a train comes at 4:25
This helped a lot and I love the mods you did to it and I’ll probably adopt them to once I have enough money that is 😅
They are filling out all ends of the spectrum, 75% lovers, 65% lovers and even TKL lovers now :D
Do a review of the q1 v2 or the q1 knob
Your finger hitting the upper case of the Q3 sounds like the train railroad crossings for the LIRR
Do you think simply loosening some of the screws on the back would have a similar effect to the force break mod? I'm kind of curious about if it would
Great video as always
Thank you as always!
Really love your videos + the scientific explanation behind it. Just a question tho, should the plate foam be included or not included if I wanna go for a thocky build? Or the plate foam is thin enough that it blocks out the high frequency sound waves instead?
For this build, the plate foam is necessary because it helps to control the steel plate resonance
@@Keybored Ah I see thank you for the info! Let's say if I were to use different softer plates like the FR4/PC/POM plate, should the foam be included to achieve that thock?
The buyee sponsor with that first figurine actually costed 173 US dollars, and the second one costed 750 US dollars
thank you for the videos, top notch! thumbs up...
thoughts on potentially using a very thin o ring that would essentially sit around the screw hole or slide over the screw itself?? -instead of tape near the screw holes
how many layers did u do for the tape mod on the pcb?
Yeah, the intro is hilarious 😂
Amazing sound! How many layers of tape did you add to the PCB?
I want to know too
14:00 I'm new to this but how is the bend a good thing?
I wonder what the other plate options like aluminum or brass do to the sound.
always looking forward to your intros xD
but honestly, I really wish they stop already with those gimmicky knob trends.
Knobs for you and Knobs for all! Lol
@@Keybored 🙌🙌🙌
@@Keybored say, do you have any tricks to safely remove very tight keycaps? Specifically long keycaps that's stuck to the stab (spacebar, shift, enter and backspace).
I broke my custom acrylic plate due to my own ignorance 🤣 luckily I had spares. Haven't used it yet though.
Hey have you considered addint a O-Ring to all the screws in between the Top and bottom cases? Maybe you get a millimeter of more space for the Kilmat aswell as the case isolation?
I did this for the GMMK pro before, but I don't think it's necessary for this board. With the force break, the thin foam below was good enough to keep the pinging at bay!
I just bought the Q3 (not first batch) with the knob and there's no pinging on my board. I did the test you did and the ringing isn't there anymore. I think they changed the dampeners from the initial run and changed it out to newer thicker dampeners.
Glad to hear that!
Nice video dude tahats so nice for beginer guide, love to see if, maybe u can make it with Q4 to the 60% form Keychron. Thanks in advance
Loving the science segments
Ahh, I wish I saw this before applying the kilmat on my Q2 based on the Q2 video. And I agree the built-in silicone ones do not do much
@keybored how do you think this mod will do for an office envoirnment? will it be too noisy? and great video!
Great vid!
Thank you!
I saw a 1800 layout Q5 that’s due to be released soon. Looking forward to that review!
I don't think I've heard the box inks quite so creamy
:) glad to see you here Gingy!
Thank you for this very informative video. I'm looking for a TKL keyboard and this one seems to be decent and its flaws easily fixable. One question re: the "tape force break fix" to acoustically decouple the upper and lower part of the case: You seem to be using blue painter's tape for this. Are there any brands/types that are better for this job than others? If so, which ones?
Nope, you can use blue, or standard masking tape as well! Basically, you're creating a very small gap between the top and bottom to create a "break" for force to travel to and from. We do this a lot in engineering (I.E. Thermal Break) to prevent energy from one source from traveling to another
I feel like I learned much more from watching this compared to school
what do you put over kilmat to prevent conductivity? just tape?
Your videos are just like your hair.. Stylish yet mature.
What do you think should be done to mod the newer version of the Q1 (with knob)? I’ve added layers of tape and done the force break mod with polyfill at the bottom yet it’s still hollow and the flex is gone. Any suggestions?
Weird because I got rid of the hollowness with the force break mod and polyfill. I also got rid of the 2 thin pieces of foam on the bottom. It flexes like a mf now
@@africanchild5985 did you do the tape mod as well? Did you add extra gaskets? I don’t know what I did wrong lol
Glad to see the foam science advancing!
:) Science!
Great video! I'm just wondering if you'll be looking into keychron's K8 Pro that is coming out soon. I would love to have your opinon on it
Yup! I have that with me right now also. Review coming soon!
How would you compare this one to Freebird TKL?
I feel the FB TKL has better sound, these both have similar feel with the FB TKL being a bit more lively and this more subdued
Great video, thank u so much❤
You're very welcome!
It is good, how about your desk mat, can you tell me where I can get it? Thank you.
Correct me if im wrong. So the force break mod just remove the ping sound when typing but the top case still ping if we try to tick it right? Because i actually consider to add lead tape to add weight to the top case but end up abandon the idea because i dont think there is enough space to really add weight and the weight added maybe is not that much haha. So it is fine right if typing sound is good while the top case still in that pingy condition haha.
probably my favorite keyboard channel, maybe you should name your channel "keyexcite" insteas
Pretty sure they fixed the Q1 with the knob version.
Keybored stop it with these intros!! I'm gonna be laughing the entire vid at this point XD Nice review btw lol
Haha I'm glad to hear the intro was fun!
4:28 sounds like a bell
LK67 sounds thockiest from all with knob best keyboard i had
LK67 is also very loud! Loud and Proud someone said haha
@@Keybored idk i want keyboard with knob and gmmk pro etc no good maybe zoom65 better
Hi This keyboard is not listed on the QMK list of supported keyboards. So, how can you flash it with QMK ?
What specifically material did they use for the plate foam and bottom case and is it easy to change it to poron.
I'm looking forward to buy this or the akko mod 007v2
Plate foam is EVA and the bottom case foam is a super thin open cell
Im excited if Keychron does a 1800 layout, similar to the KBDFans Odin.
It might be on the horizon actually :)
How are the stock stabilizers? Is it worth replacing them with aftermarket ones?
Q3!!! IS AMAZING
Hope the video explains the board well!
@@Keybored very well done! Was talking with the discord members about it!
Great video, love the evidence based practice! Question: Q3 or Freebird TKL?
The freebird will probably be more enthusiast geared and the Q series to me feels a lot more entry level. Plus more plate options, and personally I think tsangan is a better layout for the TKL