Sarek Winter Crossing 22, from Kvikkjokk to Ritsem
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 ก.ย. 2022
- There is no talking in this video so I would like to provide some info below. Maybe it helps someones planning:
I got up at 3 in the morning, went through the equipment in the back of my car and left the hotel in Jokkmokk. After passing through the snow covered main street of Porjus I took a left on BD 827 heading for Ritsem. Road conditions where fine. Temperature was about -15 degrees Celsius. After another 90 Km I got to the parking lot at Kebnats/ STF Saltoluokta. There was absolutely no one around all morning. But here, to my left, I saw some snow covered cars in the dark. They were parked downhill near the frozen lake. From hereon it seemed it had been many days since the snow plow cleared the way. I was not worried but I pulled snow chains over the front tires just in case. The LTN Bus to Ritsem from Gällivare was scheduled to start operating at the 18th of February and it was February 20th. Also there is some water power infrastructure along the road. I had seen Vattenfall passenger cars on this road in early February. The road should be fine, I was thinking. If the short bus can drive up into the mountains I can too. No? Than I heard a troubling sound. In sight of the huge Suorva dam I found myself stuck in a snowdrift. It came out of the blue. The deep drift was just indistinguishable from the snowy road. There goes my plan to cross Sarek from the north to the south. In the dimm morning light I studied the uphill climb to the top of the dam. No way I will make it to Ritsem today! After some efforts I managed to get free and drive back to Kebnats. Kebnats which is strangely nothing more than a fancy name for a parking lot. I left my car next to the other ones I saw earlier that morning and followed the marked route across the lake on my backcountry ski. In Saltoluokta I finally saw some people between the huts. They were far away and I decided to proceed and pull my pulka uphill to camp at the tree line. The next morning was another disappointment. At the top of the hill the marked route splits. All snow mobile tracks turned right towards Pietsaure. The marked winter route south towards Aktse (Kungsleden) however was totally untouched. Nobody took this route this year yet. Here above the tree line, exposed to stormy winds I expected well compressed solid snow and a fast progress to Aktse. From there I wanted to go north to Ritsem. This was Plan B. After a few hundred meters in this beautiful landscape I turned to plan C. The snow was so soft my pulka moved like a submarine below the surface. Every ten meters or so it sank in even further - but just on one side, or the other one, ending in an upside down position deep under the snow. Every step my ski sank in knee deep. Compressing all that snow under my feet and behind me made progress brutally exhausting and slow. It would have taken me forever to get to Aktse in this manner. Also the area above Saltoluokta is prone to extreme winds. I was really worried to get trapped so I turned around thinking "I'm too old for this".
Back in Jokkmokk I spend two nights in the hotel before leaving to Kvikkjokk on the morning of February 23rd. This is where this video starts.
The route I took was: Kvikkjokk, Pårtestugan, Aktse, Rapadalen, Mikkastugan, Ruohtesvágge, Kisuriskåtan, Kisurisstugan, Padjelantaleden (winter), Kutjaure, Akkastugorna, Akkajaure, Ritsem
![The most BEAUTIFUL hike in the World | Crossing Lofoten on Foot | Documentary [English Subtitles]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/3bl63l4miDU/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you for posting this video.
6:16 That frame would make a beautiful photograph or painting. Great contrasts in the forground and that cliff edge in the background is stunning. Beautiful landscape.
Thank you!
Such a well-planned expedition through nature’s raw beauty was captured brilliantly, thank you. I do have to echo the questions already raised by others: How did you get back to your car? How did you cross those rivers without risking your life? Your tent arrangement was, well, different to most other intrepid hikers across the northern wastes. Not the usual HB black label with groundsheet we often see. Why is that? Ah! I see you answered this already. Home made? Well I never.
Thank you! There is a small seasonal bus in March and April. I commented in more detail somewhere below. Yes, I am very aware of the dangers involved in such a hike - however in the big picture these are pretty much entry level tours and risks compared to what many other people are doing these days. Judging the rivers and lakes is somehow not so difficult when you are there. If you go well informed and equipped I believe this to be less risky than taking a bicycle in big European city :-) Winter camping is really (!) uncomfortable though!
Just beautiful. Thanks for making this.
Thank you!
Good film, beautiful Sarek!
Thank you for the good spirit! 🙂
Great job, man. Looks like you know, what you are doing out there. Respect and thanks for the impression. 👍
Thank you!
Amazing!
Nice film! Love the sounds and the wind over the lake.. amazing. The tent reminds me of the polarmond (all in one) design. Clever to have this "chamber" for the body and only the head out.
Thank you! Also for bringing my attention to the Polarmond tent which I did not even know about!
Spännande! Modig tur! ;-)
Fantastic movie! Love the tranquility up there. That looks like an amazing tent - what brand is it?
Thank you! That is a self made tent. Silnylon fabric came from "Ripstop by the Roll" (very happy with the quality). Construction is a mix of tarp, tent and emergency bivy sack supported by skis/ ski poles. The idea was to have some cover in even the worst possible winds above 20 m/s. I think I would not be able to set up a Hilleberg tent being alone under those critical conditions but haven't tried yet. Construction worked but needs improvements. I was hoping for a faster set up speed. One of the main problems: steel edges of the skis need socks to protect the silnylon fabric. Those where too much fumble to put on in nasty conditions for my taste.
Great video! We are planning to go the same tour in March '23. How high do you rate the avalanche danger on this route?
Thank you and good question! I’m not an expert in this field but I made all efforts to find out as much as possible about this subject. I did not find many reports on avalanches in Sarek. But accidents did happen in the past and people have seen avalanches. However I did not find any reports on Rapadalen/ Ruohtesvagge. My personal impression: if you stay in the middle of the valley, there are just occasional and rather short stretches that could be struck by an avalanche in theory. For that to happen it would have to be a very big avalanche for it to run that far into the valley. Conditions would have to be super bad (“avalanchie”) for this to happen. And the likelihood of you being there in that moment is low. If you camp outside areas that look risky - like right below 30+ degree slopes with even snowfields I think it is a low risk route. Being there actually looks less risky than on the map. I am personally a very scary type and did not feel comfortable in Ruohtesvagge because it was windy, snowing and I had no visibility to the surrounding hills (= additional risk). I tried to find an ideal route with the help of the map, went as fast as I could and I also tried to have some lower terrain between me and any slopes that made me worry. I think you will be fine!
Nice video, thx Sarek solo. I went thrue Sarek last late summer. Very beautyfull and i'm dreaming of a winter trip a few years now. Seeing this and i want to make dreams come true 😁. But comming from Belgium i think its more difficult to plan with some good weather. Maybe rebook if i have to. Question do, i noticed that you stayed in some stf huts? they r open outside the season but without the waard?
You book them or later?
Grtz Wilfried
Thank you Wilfried! If you enjoyed it in Summer it looks like you are ready for winter now! :-)
To my understanding the huts are operated by different organisations. svenskaturistforeningen.se (STV) is one of them. The huts on Padjelentaleden I think are operated by the Sami people (padjelanta.com). The big hut/ hotel in Kvikkjokk is now privately operated. The smaller huts along the official trails have an “emergency” shelter which are open all year. On the map there is an emergency telephone icon - also indication some kind of shelter or a room where the orange telephone box is located. There is no ward in off season times but there might be one IN the season. You are expected to pay by bank transfer when you return to civilisation in case you had no chance to pay on location. No booking required. The bank information and the amount requested you will find inside the huts. It is difficult to find detailed information about the different huts. I think Kvikkjokk and Ritsem don’t have an emergency shelter outside the season (no telephone icon!). Those are more like simple hotels/ hostels with road access. If they are closed, they are closed. Google will tell you when the seasons for those two are. The dates will roughly apply to all the smaller huts on the trails too. So if you are IN season there might be a ward and a fully open hut. But that is not guaranteed in the winter season I assume. Some huts are too remote with only few guests to justify someone to take care of things. In 2022 the season started pretty late on March 4th. When I arrived in Aktse Stugorna at the end of my trip on March 4th, there was a ward present (he told me I was the first guest that year). A day before I was In Kisuris Stugan (which is a bit further away from the road) and there was not a soul or any trace of anyone visible there. I have trouble imagining a ward to show up there before the summer season. But I don’t know for sure but I’m sure you will find an open shelter if there is a telephone icon! The big STF Saltoluokta hut by the way seams to be a lot different. They started their season like two weeks earlier than everyone else in 2022. There is always a lot of activity there with trips uphill to Pietsaure (also Bietsávrre).
@@sareksolo2571 thanks for the info, most helpfull. it feels like a big comfort to now that there r shelters where you can dodge bad weather if needed. i wil look ferther in to it al. for a possible 2024 trip greetings wilfried
Also from Belgium and have been in summer to Padjelanta area a few times, also Kvikkjokk to Ritsem. Had planned to do a first shorter winter trip with pulk and snow shoes, but covid scuppered the trip. I’m not a skier, so not sure how difficult to learn. What was the mask you were using? For the cold? Summer weather is very variable, same in winter? Ie can expect some storms over 10 days? Beautiful film.
@@peterc5167 Thank you! For the mask: I answered someones question about this one in the comments further down. Cross country skiing under „Sarek conditions“ with a heavy pulk in your back resembles walking and has little to do with skiing. You can learn the walking part in just a few hours of practicing. Downhill skiing requires much more time to learn especially with this type of ski equipment were your heals are not attached to the ski and the soft shoes give little control over the ski. But realistically there are few areas where you could ski downhill anyway. I am talking about areas OFF the marked winter trails. There snow conditions would have to be near perfect, visibility must be good, there should not be to many obstacles on the way downhill and then it is either too steep or not steep enough etc. . It is not essential to be skilled at downhill skiing. I am not and I still had no problems. Just go slow on downhill areas.
Weather can turn dramatically bad at all times especially in winter but less likely at the end of winter in late March and April. If you go on Padjalentaleden in late March you will be safe in even the unluckiest chain of events. There you have huts as a B-plan if camping turns out to be more problematic than you expected.
Very, very good video. Your morninglightpictures are fantastiskt. You are a good one, en som kan och vet vad det behövs. En riktig fjällräv.
I took care of the "unnamed kota" vid Kåtokjåkk (t ex en ny kamin) over 20 years in a time where nobody hittade katan - bäcken som rinner förbi fanns och finns ju aldrig i kartan. Så det var hopplös att leta efter den, den ligger ju mycket längre nere i dalen än vad man tror. Med GPS är det nya tider nu. Jag gissar att du hittade katan med GPS? Eller har du hittat den själv?
Thank you for your comment! You are absolutely right - I had problems finding that kota! I went uphill a bit too close to Kåtokjåkk (Gådokjåhkå) and missed it. On the way back on a different route I still did not see it. The map is really missing all terrain details so it is impossible to tell exact locations. I finally resorted to cheating, warmed up my iphone and had a quick GPS look there. Even than I had to get as close as 100m to see the kota well hidden under the snow.
Thanks for that great Video ! One Question. How did you organized the travel back to Kvikkjokk ? Do all the busses transport the sled and gear. would be nice to hear you. i start that tour in mid of march 2024. thanks and greetings from Germany
Thank you! Please check the description to my other Video for the details to the 93 Bus (Ritsem-Gällivare) th-cam.com/video/iqkri99XbpI/w-d-xo.html
You probably have to spend a night in Gällivare and take the 44 or 45 Bus to Jokkmokk on the next morning and later No. 47 from Jokkmokk to Kvikkjokk. The 44, 45 and 47 busse are big with lots of space for your equipment. The driver will open the doors and you can load your stuff directly from street level in the luggage compartments.
Thanks for your fast reply and great informations.
Amazing, how you cross the rivers? Wait for a frozen part or is it easy to find?
Most rivers are frozen and easy to follow or cross. There are some open areas but those are usually easy to spot. I might be wrong but I think it is not so difficult to judge which areas are safe :-)
Where did you get those glasses? What brand is it?
Google: Julbo sniper glasses. I like the quick on off swivel and the fact they fit over my regular glasses. There is enough air circulation on the inside to avoid fogging. They worked well together with the hood of my jacket (also in the UP position) and the cold protection mask. Although they are open I did not have problems with snowflakes hitting my eyes in stormy conditions.
Hi, which sled did you use? Satisfied with the choice?
It is a Acapulka Scandic Tour 120. It is made of glass fibre and very solid. That is an advantage if you crash it against some rocks by accident because it will hardly break. This pulka is slightly wider than those made by Fjellpulken (another popular brand with a comparable construction). I sometimes thought an Acapulka Expedition Tour 135 would be better for me. This model is even wider and might be less prone to tipping over. On the other hand it would be harder to pull a wider pulka through soft snow. It is important to have the pulka packed really low to avoid having it tipping over wich happens easily under some snow conditions. So in case of a doubt if things will fit I would suggest to buy a bigger model so you don’t have to pile stuff up high. Then of course travelling with a big pulka (plane, car, train) is a hassle and you want a smaller one :-)
Thanks for your answer! I ordered Scandic 150
Hi! Your video is great and gives a lot of infos! I’m planning to do the same trip at the end of March. One question: how did you get back from ritsem to Kvikkjokk? Where can I get this service? Time? Cost? Thank you!
Thank you! There is a bus (No. 93) starting at STF Ritsem Fjällstation. The Bus company is called Länstrafiken Norrbotten (LTN). They have various websites and Apps. The bus information however tends to vanish from all sites and schedules until February. Don't get confused! Number 93 will appear in schedules around February and is reliable like all LTN buses. Problem is: this bus will go to Gälivare and you have to spend a night in Gälivare before taking another bus to Jokkmokk and than another one to Kvikkjokk. So this will take a lot of time unfortunately. The small 93 bus alone takes like 4 hours to Gälivare. I don't remember the costs but it is not super cheap.
Thank you!
I am studying your video with great attention. I have another question: it took you quite a long time from Rapaselet to Sommabro, short sections. The weather doesn’t look so bad there. Any other reason why you didn’t cover more distance?
Looks like in Rapaselet and around Laddebakte the snow was softer and not completely frozen. Probably that’s the reason? Which section did you find more challenging? And more: full skins or just x-skins? Mohair or nylon or mix?
@@danilovirgillito7120The first days where very cold (around -25 in the night) and snow was deep and very soft (unbound). However there where snowmobile tracks on Kungsleden starting right from Kvikkjokk Parking (the marked winter trail) and progress was therefore easy until I arrived in Aktse. When I entered Rapadalen - leaving Kungsleden and going north/west - there where no more snowmobile tracks because it is forbidden to drive into Sarek except for Sami people and park rangers. I sank in DEEP and progress was VERY slow. Also I’m pretty old and not exceptionally well trained :-) Than the weather changed and it was VERY warm, sometimes above freezing point. The snow was binding now and turned more to the solid side when I passed Laddebakte. I covered a bit more Km that day. Then there was this snow storm the next day (below Mikkastugan/ Skarja). Wind speed was above 15 m/s and I could NOT see a thing. I was in this area before - but that was in Summer of 1989. I did not remember the steep steps along Rapadalen upon entering Ruothesvagge. The map is not telling you anything about this. In Summer this is of course not a problem. I was way too busy to film my struggle finding a way up (in the video there is a little extra map animation instead). It took me about 5 attempts until I found a spot where I could pull the pulka up into Ruothesvagge. After Mikkastugan things where easy. Overall this is an easy route to take. My general advice to anyone would be: don’t go before mid March to avoid soft snow conditions!
@@danilovirgillito7120 I walk with full skins all the time (mohair) because I just don't like to switch things once moving
@@sareksolo2571 thank you for your replying. Very detailed. This is very valuable for my planning. I’m leaving Kvikkjokk on March, 24th and planning to arrive in Ritsem on April, 3rd. I’m planning to ski around 15km/day. That would give me a 9 days trip with one day and a half spare for weather and unforeseen problems. leaving Akka in the early morning of April, 3rd.
This is pretty awesome. I went to Sarek twice in the summer, and that's dangerous enough IMHO. But going there in the winter takes it to a different level. Not sure I'd be up for that. Winter camping is torture :)
Thank you! Winter is beautiful though. Worth the torture ;) Not sure about the dangers: river crossing in early summer can get out of hand quickly :)
Beautiful video 👍👍👍 What skis did you use for the tour?
Thank you! These are Åsnes Amundsen Backcountry/Fjellski
Thanks 👍
what is the funcition of the mask?
It is a cold air protection mask by a company called AirTrim. Basically it is a lightweight closed cell foam cup which keeps nose and mouth warm when you have cold wind directly in your face. Contrary to a scarf or fabric it wont get wet/icy and diverts ones breath away to the front so open glasses don't get fogged. It also retains some moisture when the air is dry and preheats the air you breath somewhat. Not a must have in Laponia but sometimes comfortable.
@@sareksolo2571 and what's the lowest temperature using this mask on your opinion, please. Usually using 2 fabric masks, one on face, other drying in belly pocket of anorak together with spare internal mitts. That's useful below -30c at the counterwind.
@@leetrue3049 I have not tried this below -20 personally and it all depends on a lot of factors. But I'm sure it would be a good option in real extreme conditions too.
Beautiful video ! The colors, after the snowstorm, are astonishing ! Hälsningar,
Thank you!🙂
Very beautiful, similiar to Cola peninsula. But more populated in this places, too many huts. Why not travel on ridges traverses still you use no firecamps. Simple climbing +. Panoramas. Igloo or snow walls for tent. Drying condensate due dark colors and solar inversion. Thanks.
Att inte säga något säger mer än 1000 ord. Vackert.
Tack!