*This battery reconditioning program exceeded my presumptions. It worked on any drill battery, several AA and AAA batteries, **batery.repair** and any camera battery. The steps are simple and the act itself is exciting to do. No matter what type of battery you`ve got, it is sure to function again!*
Making use of the th-cam.com/users/postUgkxcJ22tnHH9l1vjdIdEIG27iOG55P7LXI8 reconditioning plan, I just saved 2 auto batteries from being completely junked. The guides were very simple to follow. I wish I would have found this years ago! You may use the guide to recondition any battery type
You are too nice. The moment someone tells me “the battery will last for ever”, I know they’re being dishonest. 3 weeks later the battery went dead? Definitely a scam! He probably just got rid of the triangle and it popped up again, on you that time. Anyhow, I’m glad you managed to save your car at the end.
Shock Hazard is way overstated.Hardest part of reassembly is compressing the battery pack with the end plate. Use a long screw clamp or two.Don't take the back seat apart.Tilt it forward and just remove the 4 big bolts that hold the upper seats.Leave the lower seats in.You really need an electric screwdriver for all the small bolts including the 56 nuts on the modules.The rest is common hand tools. Use alot of plastic bowls for the bolts and nuts and put them next to the part. Take both side brackets off. Clean all air ducting and the fan.Put the battery between two sawhorses so you can access the bottom module bolts.Clean the bus bars and nuts with Caig Deoxit D5.Do not take the 28 bottom module bolts off unless you need to remove that module.Reassemble the modules with the lowest voltage at the removal end.Saves time next time.When did he do voltage readings?Mark the voltage on top of each module.Normally, there is a bunch of green stuff on the bus bars.Use the Deoxit D5 for that.No new modules are available.They are all used.Stack all modules vertically.You do not need to replace all the modules.If you do that, you might as well buy a new battery at the dealer. There is no guarantee that the new "Used" modules you buy are better than the good ones you have.Just replace the lowest voltage ones - say below 7.2 volts.I can't see the savings replacing all the modules..I have replaced one module each of 3 times.There is no guarantee that his new" modules won't fail tomorrow.It's time rather than mileage that kills modules.Toyota warranty on the battery is 150k,10 years in Calif.
Thanks, Stan. Great tips and pointers. The place I bought the new "used" modules gives me a year warranty (Electron Automotive). They assured me they were "elite" used cells. So far, everything has worked wonderfully. Electron also said they sell brand new cells--that you can swap out all of your 2nd gen cells with newer generation cells (not just one or two, but all of them). Does that sound right to you? That newer generation cells can work in old batteries?
I can guarantee that Electron has no new Panasonic modules. Panasonic only puts them into new packs and there is no other distribution channel. This had to do with the Patent holders GM and then Chevron.Although the patent expired in 2015, Panasonic doesn't want to sell wholesale or retail to the public.
I just opened mine today and checked voltages. They were all up to specs 7.5 volts. Contacts showed some corrosion and im cleaning all tomorrow. Thanka for your video. You the man!
Are you saying all the individual cell voltages are good, yet you have a problem right (otherwise why take it apart)? My experience is that you have to test batteries under load, not just measure the voltage. For example your car battery might measure 12.5V but take it to an auto shop and they have a special tester to check the current under a load. So I'm wondering how I can reliably test these individual cells? The dealer told me 2 of the cells were failing. I would prefer not to replace all the cells if only 2 are failing, but need to ensure the other cells are really just fine before I do that.
THANKS for sharing your mission, it was a great guide for me. I just replaced the bad module for $35 off ebay, it was also #10 where the power lead is connected. ALL the battery bus bars & retaining nuts were corroded, looking like mold on cheese, so I put in a lot more labor but accomplish my mission today. Thanks for recording & posting 👍
Really enjoyed your video. Most people won't dare do this repair. Hybrid shops will replace only 1 or 2 bad cells but will last about a year then you have to return. It's best to replace them all or if you don't have the money, then replace half the cells this year and the rest in a year or two. I've taken the EBAY route and have replaced 11 cells 1 to 3 a year. None of the used EBAY cells have failed only the original ones. I am presently working on an electronic device that keeps them balanced when the car is off. If this works it should make the cells last longer. Great video!
the French accent is good at 36:46 !! "tout doucement, tout doucement..." That's it, nice and slow... I really appreciate your video, it's rather strong detailed. I say to you : stay on this path!
Those cells are in series meaning nose to tail like elephants do at the circus or batteries in a flashlight, the voltage adds up in series, parallel is like the rungs on a ladder each cell is like a rung on a ladder rather than nose to tail, parallel the voltage does not add up its the same no matter how many cells.
If and when I have a traction battery problem, I think i will just replace the bad cell (cells). After all, the reason you decided to tackle the job was to save some money. Instead of spending 1100.00 it would be less than 100.00 to replace a couple of cells. Another savings of 1000 bucks. worth a shot for me anyway. I do understand that many people would still me more comfortable replacing the whole lot. One thing i did take note of in your video was that quite a bit of the pieces and panels you removed would also need to be removed to change out the rear shocks. I will be sure to have a couple of new ones ready if I ever need to tackle this chore. Thanks for sharing!
Adam, you did a very good job! tbirdracefan, I think your logic is more right. I have a Toyota puris 2007 with only 130K Miles. Recently, the battery started failing me and then the red light shows up. I am going to change to bad cells only. Please, any recommendations on where to get separate cells? I also don't have the little tech machine to test the cells. As a student I would like to do it the cheapest way possible. Thank you!
I wouldn't say more right, only my opinion. The individual cells are available on Ebay. Absolute cheapest way to test the cells would be with a cheap volt meter from some place like Harbor Freight. A better way would be with a hobby charger that charges diferent types of batteries like used with radio control planes and cars. With a volt meter you are simply checking the voltage of individual cells. They should all be about the same. You can see which one (ones) have a lower voltage. With a hobby charger you can charge and discharge the cells as well as balance all the cell voltages to be the same. That would be a better way but does take some time and a hobby charger is at least 40.00 bucks.
tbirdracefan, I took the battery apart and tested every single cell. Turned out that most of them are 8.00V- and 8.1 V except 3 cells that are below 8 (7.90 V - 6.99 V- 7.96V) do you recommend that I buy new cells or just used ones from eBay? and what the right voltage that should be in a cell to be considered good? I would appreciate your answer. Thank you!
I would suggest replacing the 6.99V for sure and maybe the 7.90V. The 7.96 is very close to 8.00V. The voltages that you read will depend on the state of charge of the battery at the time you test it. That is why you are comparing voltages. I am not even sure you can buy new individual cells. I would just use the Ebay sourced cells if it were me.
That "little orange thing" (around 4:50) is the MOST important. You do NOT need to pullout/disconnect the battery at the beginning. Once the orange thing is out, you are 100% safe. You don't need special gloves or or shoes.
Here's what I'm interested to know: How long does the battery last before it needs replacing? What sort of mileage can I expect it to get up to without needing major repairs? What should I pay attention to when buying a used one? Thanks for getting in touch.
They generally last between 10-11 years. Its not about how many miles you put on these hybrid cars as you can drive indefinite miles. Its not hard to rack up 300,000 miles in just 5 years especially since these cars are commonly used as Taxi fleets. If you plan on keep these cars for another 10 years, getting new battery at the dealer would be your only choice as used reconditioned batteries are only short term fixes until you have to repeat the process all back over again. Batteries are planned obsolescence components due to their nature and chemistry. The rest of the hybrid components you can get used. Denso electronics are pretty damn reliable as Toyota's rarely have electrical issues. The power inverter and all the crazy 17 different ECM's last a long damn time. The inverter pump is probably the most common thing that would need to be replaced as these cars age.
best prius hv replacement video I've seen. I think you have good skills. I wear flip flops when I work on my car also lol. Also, unless the previous owner disclosed to you that they had a cell replaced, it sounds like they were not being fully honest with you regarding the battery lasting "forever".
Haha, yeah. Flip flops aren't the safest, but I got in the habit down in American Samoa. The previous owner bought the car from a dealer, but he got it as a reconstructed title. I don't think he knew what had been done to it by the dealer post-accident and pre-sale, but I guess there's no way to know for sure.
Many thanks for your entertaining video. One of the best I've watched, especially not spending extra time prefacing the whole thing or waxing philosophic. I have a 2007 and this was my second "triangle of death" experience, the first being the inverter coolant pump, easy enough to replace. So far I've only replaced one bad cell in the array, but the car seems fine! I wouldn't do this without a code reader and software, but each to their own. Got my fingers crossed, but all my good cells read 8.3 volts and the pack seems very balanced now. Sorry you got sold a lame Prius - some people really suck. Hope your car continues to give you good service and I'm glad Electron is making the video worth your while.
How is the pack and car doing now after the 1 cell replacement? I'm hearing conflicting opinions: most of us individuals want to go the inexpensive route and replace just the cells while most shops say that's a BIG risk and to only replace the whole battery.
@@z13urgehmm they may be right but they also know they make a lot more money from the whole battery. I’d say it’s better to save money on this. The car isn’t as expensive if you get a junkyard battery or explore cheaper options.
I also have a 2005 with 182k. I just replace the fifth module since 160k. I can do the R&R in about 5 hours. How long your "fix" lasts depends on how old those modules are. All aftermarket modules are used. Toyota does not sell new modules unless they are in a new pack for at least $2000 (no labor). You might as well learn to do this because in time one module will fail and please do not buy a whole pack for one module that fails.I would replace the bad module and any weak ones and keep the rest of my newer modules for the "next time". I use no gloves and I lift it out myself. But I deadlift 225 at the gym and I'm 70 years old. Yes, it's a hassle but you're not supposed to keep the car this long. Most people trade them in when the red triangle of death comes on. Once the orange plug is out, the shock hazard is nil. It kills the series continuity. No one module is going to shock you to death.
awesome video, thank you.. now i gotta see who would sell me those cells so i can replace my 2005 prius battery.. i called Oreiley and they told me the same thing.. and i live in Hawaii.. will try, and thanks again for video..
Our 2007 Prius was parked for 8 months and no one told us to disconnect the small battery and the main battery drained because of it. Our engine blew the head gasket and we got it fixed but now the car has issues. We are trying to sell it.
You forgot to take the passenger side side brace off. Buy a "plug puller' for those black plastic plugs. Forget flip flops. You need traction for lifting. Buy some Reebok Nano 8 Crossfit Shoes. Don't take the top off until you have the battery between two sawhorses. You must get under the battery to get those 28 bottom nuts. Take off that flimsy metal side panel before you remove the top. You remove the bus bars not because of shock hazard but to avoid stretching the bus bars when you remove the end plate. Use a marking pen to mark the outside of the end panel (metal) and the outside of the plastic compression end panel. Make sure the 3 thermistor leads are installed the right way on the Module clip holders.Be careful with the 3 thermistor leads as Toyota does not sell a new harness. You only need to disconnect the positive on the 12 volt with a 10 mm 1/4" socket.You only need a 8mm socket for the bottom bolts and nuts for the battery connections, a 10 mm for many bolts and nuts, a 12mm socket for the big battery bolts and a 14mm for the seat backs. I don't use wrenches for anything but I use a 1/4" battery screwdriver for the small stuff and a 3/8 battery drill with male socket adapter for the big bolts. Don't believe the dealer can do it in 45 minutes. In fact, the dealer gets a shell with the modules and has to do what you do but he also has to transfer your computer end. Even the dealer techs take a few hours with power tools. They will tell you that they never "fix" by just replacing bad modules. But they will for "needy" customers or for "good will".
Great comments Stan, they'll help me out a lot. One thing though, I can't lift the battery pack out, my right rotator cuff is toast. 2 nabors within 500 acres, one is legally blind and one is 75 but not as spry as you - no help from them. I'm waaaay out in the country. Believe it or not I was 'given' my 2002 Prius. When the dealer told him he needed a $5k battery he gave up on it. When I got it the thing would still crank and run, but all the sheet metal was off the battery pack. Copper busses were corroded. I may have to watch the video again to able to form a rational question, it's been 2 weeks since I watched it first. Maybe you and I can get together later for an old codgers meeting? Lol....
Almost forgot, 162K miles on mine and otherwise looks almost mint. I'm hoping to get the Prius refurbished before the Astro van I inherited gives up the ghost at 300K miles - my 96 F150 is down too.
Stanny1 idk man, I’ve seen a real pro do it on here in 15 minutes. Of course, all he did was drop a whole new pack inside. But, It was pretty obvious this guy had done a TON of these repairs before.
U don't need the vent tubes. The later generation prius doesn't even have it. I replaced my gen2 with a gen 3 battery without it. Also I took all the copper connection out and polished them all on the grinder polish wheel. Nice video. And yes.. i did mine on the driveway in my flip flops also last summer. lol
Could you please tell me we got the lithium battery, upgrade, I haven't been able to find it anywhere. My email is Jimmy Harris 2006 I really appreciate it
lol 3 weeks later... he was definitely being dishonest. They give some decent warning signs usually before they go. Also, I agree the shock hazard is overstated. There are sooooooooo many fail-safes in place to stop power when the ready mode is not illuminated. Even once that cover is off you would have to be making love to the battery to get zapped lmao. when you go to the dealer you are waiting on techs to become available.
Thanks. I hope you don't mind if I make some suggestions. Wearing work clothes and work shoes for a start then when disassembling it is smart to mark everything for location and lay the removed parts in order of disassembly.
200VDC in those batts...anything over 50VDC is nasty. However you have the best vid on these Prius hybrids...to date. At 5k per battery pack, too expensive worth more than the car is worth.
If you only use 1 hand and put the other one in a pocket and dont grab anything or bump your elbow etc to anything you cant get shocked with just 1 arm or hand being used, it requires both sides of power to complete the circuit, I saw a tech at SMUD grab a live 4000 volt line and said if he grabbed a railing etc with the free hand he would incinerate.
Adam, thank you for putting this video together. We just got a 2005 Prius for my 16 old daughter, it was a gift from my Dad. I feel like i can tackle the battery replacement after watching you do it in Flip Flops :-). I was wondering if you have had any issues with your headlights on your 2005 Prius? I have not been able to find a fix on line for it but thought you might know of one or have found a work around. Thanks agin for posting this video, it was super helpful. Brendan
Well than you should have written that in your original post what you actually meant. I can only react to what I read, not to what you might have thought. ;-)
Adam you are a legend, thank you so much for taking the time to make such an elaborative video. This has to be the most resource full video I've seen. Unfortunately my hybrid battery just went out but I still dnt have the courage to do it myself. However thank you and I'm glad everything turned out well. Btw what sytenthem did u have wheb u learn that your battery went out. Mine was check hybrid system error and my cruise control and eco/sport setting was disabled.
thanks for sharing this great video, I will now start fixing my 2007 Toyota Camry Hybrid with "CHECK YOUR HYBRID SYSTEM" one of the video I watched he only replaced cells with less than 7V. I wonder if that is smart to do? I also seen one video that the cooling fan for the hybrid battery can also cause the Check your Hybrid system.
Just changed my bad cell. Car worked fine for 10 minutes and just when I arrived to home after test drive, the lights come up again. The battery cooling fan is runing now, I never heard before. A week before just changed the inverter fluid and engine oil. When I check my inverter fluid I can see movement in the fluid but not swirling. Can be the pump is the problem now?
Instead of investing too much in a failure prone pack with used cells of unknown vintage, just search the internet junkyard sites for a newer battery. My 2005 battery died, so I bought a low mileage battery from a wrecked 2014 for only $850. Gained 9 years newer.
love workin on toyota.. going to be dissecting my own battery waitin on parts and some spiffy new milwaukee 12v tools. Every little bit of information helps
Hey, Adam, thank you for sharing this wonderful video. Are you still in Prove? Coz My 2008 Prius has P0a80 code now, and I am not sure whether I need to replace the whole 28 modules. There are some videos suggest to replace the bad module, do you know how to check modules? If you are in Provo, may I visit you for hybrid battery questions? Thanks
I've actually never check modules. The set I bought was pre-checked and balanced. I was a little wary of swapping one to have another fail soon after. I'd read some accounts where people wasting a ton of time with that approach. But I've also heard that it can work. Good luck!
Great video. The flip flops seemed inappropriate shoe ware though. If you were a presenter on the TV you'd have to wear metal toe cap boots and a hard hat😁
Yeah, it looked like someone had, especially with "bad cell" being etched on the outside. I heard there are other weaknesses that a voltmeter can't catch and decided to swap them all to buy me at least a little time until I need to take everything apart again. It was $1100 to swap them all (something like that). Bought as a set from Electron Automotive.
Adam Balinski look up Torque Pro in the app store or you can buy what the dealer uses called Tech Stream. Both work and can tell you which cells are bad, good, what is their voltage and more.
Joel, can you confirm that the Torque Pro app will show battery data? Some other forums imply that you have to have TechStream to get individual cell info.
Hi Adam. Thinking about buying an 06 Prius with a battery error code. Getting a good price on the car and if I can rebuild the battery it will be much cheaper than market price. Would this be something you'd recommend? One question about the process. When you were disconnecting the nuts connecting the batteries with the orange busses, was there a danger there of electrocution? What did you use to disconnect? Thanks, Dave
Dave, Good question. Honestly, I am no expert. Just an average do-it-yourselfer. I would rather buy a car with a bad error code, which is appropriately discounted, than a car with unknown problems that may not calculate into purchase cost. Regarding shock risks, I don't know the answer to your question. Though you need to make sure the orange safety plug is removed before touching anything.
This may have been covered somewhere else in the comments, couldn't find it by skimming through them. The Prius bus bar is known to have serious corrosion issues. In the video when you removed the bus bar, it appeared in the video there was ample corrosion on the bus bar plates. Without cleaning off that corrosion, you are replacing batteries with a corroded bus bar plates which will give your poor a poor cell connection between cells that is only going to get worse. Step 1 should have been to remove all the bus bar hardware and clean off all the corrosion. Step 2 should have been to inspect all the wiring and wiring harness for dirt, corrosion etc, loose wires, check the cooling fan and clean off any dirt and debris. Step 3 should have been to identify any bad modules by testing them under load. I understand that step is time consuming and may have been more time and effort than the poster wanted to invest in this project. This is something people will or will not tackle based on how much time they have and how much money they want to spend on this project. It is really a time and effort vs money equation. The poster has kids so I completely understand him wanting to spend his time elsewhere. The alternate to step 3 is to do as the poster did and buy a set of balanced and tested modules as a set, which equals more money but far less time and effort. Step 1 and 2 are however critical regardless. In many cases step 1 and 2 will get the pack working for a few months or even a year or two. Step 3 will get you more time and longer success, maybe even far longer. Note that I am not criticizing the poster at all, but anyone who is using this as a guide would be far better off doing these steps in that order and it would be far more successful both short and long term. Just my 5 cents. Hope it helps.
Hey dude: I do like you show step by step how to take your Toyota Prius apart to which out the bad battery out from your Prius. But you might need to buy a coreless Impact drill. That would save you some time make your job lot faster too. Oh I do like your video that you have on here. So I hope you can make some more TH-cam video on here again. you have a friend from Houston Tx
Adam, did you inspect the sides of the modules for damage to the alignment posts and dimples? Modules packed tightly like that are frequently damaged during transit. I have seen them fractured to the point they will leak - particularly at the two rectangular tabs on the middle cells. Properly shipped modules are completely isolated from one another.
Call me crazy but would it not be possible to take each cell off one by one and then reassemble one by one with the battery still in the trunk area thus avoid the heavy lifting out of the vehicle and then back in post battery assembly?
Toyota. Everything is a 10mm or a 12mm. I think the wheel bearing nuts are a 22 and there's some 17mm on some brake components, but you can do a lot with just two spanners :-)
@1Noisycricket U have to send a core. And those old cells r 100% shit. Cores on old Cells can be as high as $820.00. So him sending them for core money is actually good for him. Go clean dishes. By your Comment you're a moron
Is it worth to buy a 2001 Prius Hybrid 120k miles on it for $3.8k or lesser? I am a grad student can't afford expensive cars. I am planning to check the battery life using the OBD before purchasing. What are your thoughts?
THANK YOU FOR YOUR VIDEO IS WHAT CAN YOU TELL ME BLOCK 9, BEGINNING TO COUNT FROM ECU (COMPUTER OR DRIVER SIDE TO PASSENGER OR THE CONTRARY, IT OR THE POSITION OF BLOCK 9? THANK YOU
You might have said it--- but I missed it. How much did it cost to replace all of the cells? And--- this is an 2017 video, Have you had any Battery issues since?
Ok so I need to ask. bc I can't pay all at once to replace them all. but I have a good mechanic, if I need to replace just bad cells with buying from ebay will that help me?
Adam that was wonderful! Good job! I have a Toyota 2007 with only 130K miles on it. I had it for a year and a half. It was good to me no problems at all until the red light showed up on my dashboard. I would like to replace the bad cells only. Any recommendations on how to test the bad cells on my battery? Any recommended place from where to buy good cells? Thank you!
Oh I have a 2009 Toyota Prius myself so I hope to see more Video but I hope you can keep me update about some more TH-cam Video on your web site okAgain keep up the good work on here ok
“Watching” (more like listening) to the Dallas buyers club taking apart a Toyota Prius! ;-) Very entertaining and I wonder if anybody did the swap but with newer types of batteries?
Have you experienced any chirping sound from the between the firewall in the inverter area as you're driving around or going to park? Mine's doing that but all the tests that they did diagnostics from the Toyota place or is showing nothing. If anybody out there has had this experience and knows what it is I would appreciate the heads-up
hello, where I can buy these modules ,I also want to rebuild my Hybrid battery, would you like to tell my where I can buy it online? how much about these modules?
35:16 you didn’t clip the orange cables onto the orange carrier on the side of the battery when you clipped the black cover back on, but great tutorial, well done, sorry for being churlish.
Curious, before buying the Prius - did the HV Battery check good with an app like Dr Prius ? I may buy a used Prius & would like to know if Dr Prius can be fooled.
Adam, Hope you are doing well. How has the hybrid cells you installed on the Prius holding up? Or would you recommend a new one? Thanks for any feedback.
My parents have a Toyota Prius that worked perfectly, for several years. Then it died. They’ve replaced (rebuilt) the battery and put $2500 into whatever “repairs” two different mechanics performed, to no avail. Would you know anyone, in the SLC area that knows how to fix hybrid engines? We were told it was just the battery. They would also sell it if someone wanted to get it back on the road. Any advise would be appreciated.
Only defective modules can be found via the voltage. That means you must not change all cells. With a capacity measurement, weak modules can also be found. These weak modules are among the first to be broken the next time. I found a 7.4 volt module with only 1800 mAh. Normally old modules (year 2007) have approx. 5500 to 6500 mAh. Here you find the way to check the capacity of your cells: th-cam.com/video/g5KAPge-f6E/w-d-xo.html
*This battery reconditioning program exceeded my presumptions. It worked on any drill battery, several AA and AAA batteries, **batery.repair** and any camera battery. The steps are simple and the act itself is exciting to do. No matter what type of battery you`ve got, it is sure to function again!*
Making use of the th-cam.com/users/postUgkxcJ22tnHH9l1vjdIdEIG27iOG55P7LXI8 reconditioning plan, I just saved 2 auto batteries from being completely junked. The guides were very simple to follow. I wish I would have found this years ago! You may use the guide to recondition any battery type
You are too nice. The moment someone tells me “the battery will last for ever”, I know they’re being dishonest. 3 weeks later the battery went dead? Definitely a scam! He probably just got rid of the triangle and it popped up again, on you that time. Anyhow, I’m glad you managed to save your car at the end.
Shock Hazard is way overstated.Hardest part of reassembly is compressing the battery pack with the end plate. Use a long screw clamp or two.Don't take the back seat apart.Tilt it forward and just remove the 4 big bolts that hold the upper seats.Leave the lower seats in.You really need an electric screwdriver for all the small bolts including the 56 nuts on the modules.The rest is common hand tools. Use alot of plastic bowls for the bolts and nuts and put them next to the part. Take both side brackets off. Clean all air ducting and the fan.Put the battery between two sawhorses so you can access the bottom module bolts.Clean the bus bars and nuts with Caig Deoxit D5.Do not take the 28 bottom module bolts off unless you need to remove that module.Reassemble the modules with the lowest voltage at the removal end.Saves time next time.When did he do voltage readings?Mark the voltage on top of each module.Normally, there is a bunch of green stuff on the bus bars.Use the Deoxit D5 for that.No new modules are available.They are all used.Stack all modules vertically.You do not need to replace all the modules.If you do that, you might as well buy a new battery at the dealer. There is no guarantee that the new "Used" modules you buy are better than the good ones you have.Just replace the lowest voltage ones - say below 7.2 volts.I can't see the savings replacing all the modules..I have replaced one module each of 3 times.There is no guarantee that his
new" modules won't fail tomorrow.It's time rather than mileage that kills modules.Toyota warranty on the battery is 150k,10 years in Calif.
Thanks, Stan. Great tips and pointers. The place I bought the new "used" modules gives me a year warranty (Electron Automotive). They assured me they were "elite" used cells. So far, everything has worked wonderfully. Electron also said they sell brand new cells--that you can swap out all of your 2nd gen cells with newer generation cells (not just one or two, but all of them). Does that sound right to you? That newer generation cells can work in old batteries?
I can guarantee that Electron has no new Panasonic modules. Panasonic only puts them into new packs and there is no other distribution channel. This had to do with the Patent holders GM and then Chevron.Although the patent expired in 2015, Panasonic doesn't want to sell wholesale or retail to the public.
Sean, electronautomotive.com/service/orange/ca/hybridbatteries.html
Useless Website.
That's where I bought my batteries. I called them. I thought they were helpful. Do you know a better place to buy a full set of replacement cells?
I just opened mine today and checked voltages. They were all up to specs 7.5 volts. Contacts showed some corrosion and im cleaning all tomorrow. Thanka for your video. You the man!
Thanks, dude!
Are you saying all the individual cell voltages are good, yet you have a problem right (otherwise why take it apart)? My experience is that you have to test batteries under load, not just measure the voltage. For example your car battery might measure 12.5V but take it to an auto shop and they have a special tester to check the current under a load. So I'm wondering how I can reliably test these individual cells? The dealer told me 2 of the cells were failing. I would prefer not to replace all the cells if only 2 are failing, but need to ensure the other cells are really just fine before I do that.
If u didn't test underlaod u 100% didn't get a good reading on your Volts for each cell
THANKS for sharing your mission, it was a great guide for me. I just replaced the bad module for $35 off ebay, it was also #10 where the power lead is connected. ALL the battery bus bars & retaining nuts were corroded, looking like mold on cheese, so I put in a lot more labor but accomplish my mission today. Thanks for recording & posting 👍
Really enjoyed your video. Most people won't dare do this repair. Hybrid shops will replace only 1 or 2 bad cells but will last about a year then you have to return. It's best to replace them all or if you don't have the money, then replace half the cells this year and the rest in a year or two. I've taken the EBAY route and have replaced 11 cells 1 to 3 a year. None of the used EBAY cells have failed only the original ones. I am presently working on an electronic device that keeps them balanced when the car is off. If this works it should make the cells last longer. Great video!
Which Ebay buyer did you use
How is your rebuilt battery holding up one year later?
the French accent is good at 36:46 !! "tout doucement, tout doucement..." That's it, nice and slow... I really appreciate your video, it's rather strong detailed. I say to you : stay on this path!
Those cells are in series meaning nose to tail like elephants do at the circus or batteries in a flashlight, the voltage adds up in series, parallel is like the rungs on a ladder each cell is like a rung on a ladder rather than nose to tail, parallel the voltage does not add up its the same no matter how many cells.
If and when I have a traction battery problem, I think i will just replace the bad cell (cells). After all, the reason you decided to tackle the job was to save some money. Instead of spending 1100.00 it would be less than 100.00 to replace a couple of cells. Another savings of 1000 bucks. worth a shot for me anyway. I do understand that many people would still me more comfortable replacing the whole lot.
One thing i did take note of in your video was that quite a bit of the pieces and panels you removed would also need to be removed to change out the rear shocks. I will be sure to have a couple of new ones ready if I ever need to tackle this chore.
Thanks for sharing!
Adam, you did a very good job! tbirdracefan, I think your logic is more right. I have a Toyota puris 2007 with only 130K Miles. Recently, the battery started failing me and then the red light shows up. I am going to change to bad cells only. Please, any recommendations on where to get separate cells? I also don't have the little tech machine to test the cells. As a student I would like to do it the cheapest way possible. Thank you!
I wouldn't say more right, only my opinion.
The individual cells are available on Ebay. Absolute cheapest way to test the cells would be with a cheap volt meter from some place like Harbor Freight. A better way would be with a hobby charger that charges diferent types of batteries like used with radio control planes and cars. With a volt meter you are simply checking the voltage of individual cells. They should all be about the same. You can see which one (ones) have a lower voltage. With a hobby charger you can charge and discharge the cells as well as balance all the cell voltages to be the same. That would be a better way but does take some time and a hobby charger is at least 40.00 bucks.
tbirdracefan, thank you so much for your recommendations.
tbirdracefan, I took the battery apart and tested every single cell. Turned out that most of them are 8.00V- and 8.1 V except 3 cells that are below 8 (7.90 V - 6.99 V- 7.96V) do you recommend that I buy new cells or just used ones from eBay? and what the right voltage that should be in a cell to be considered good? I would appreciate your answer. Thank you!
I would suggest replacing the 6.99V for sure and maybe the 7.90V. The 7.96 is very close to 8.00V.
The voltages that you read will depend on the state of charge of the battery at the time you test it. That is why you are comparing voltages. I am not even sure you can buy new individual cells. I would just use the Ebay sourced cells if it were me.
Wow replacing HV battery is actually much harder than I thought... thanks for the video so dummy like me won't try and make a mess
I've never seen the bus bars and nuts so clean on a pulled HV battery before!
That "little orange thing" (around 4:50) is the MOST important. You do NOT need to pullout/disconnect the battery at the beginning. Once the orange thing is out, you are 100% safe. You don't need special gloves or or shoes.
Are you sure? I need to repace on 05 prius but i got scare about high voltage. !😿
Here's what I'm interested to know:
How long does the battery last before it needs replacing?
What sort of mileage can I expect it to get up to without needing major repairs?
What should I pay attention to when buying a used one?
Thanks for getting in touch.
I would call Chris @ 714-609-5064; he was really helpful in answering any of the questions that I had. Good luck!
They generally last between 10-11 years. Its not about how many miles you put on these hybrid cars as you can drive indefinite miles. Its not hard to rack up 300,000 miles in just 5 years especially since these cars are commonly used as Taxi fleets. If you plan on keep these cars for another 10 years, getting new battery at the dealer would be your only choice as used reconditioned batteries are only short term fixes until you have to repeat the process all back over again. Batteries are planned obsolescence components due to their nature and chemistry. The rest of the hybrid components you can get used. Denso electronics are pretty damn reliable as Toyota's rarely have electrical issues. The power inverter and all the crazy 17 different ECM's last a long damn time. The inverter pump is probably the most common thing that would need to be replaced as these cars age.
Eman 08 mine are 15 years old and work perfect they are designed to last the live of the car.
best prius hv replacement video I've seen. I think you have good skills. I wear flip flops when I work on my car also lol. Also, unless the previous owner disclosed to you that they had a cell replaced, it sounds like they were not being fully honest with you regarding the battery lasting "forever".
Haha, yeah. Flip flops aren't the safest, but I got in the habit down in American Samoa. The previous owner bought the car from a dealer, but he got it as a reconstructed title. I don't think he knew what had been done to it by the dealer post-accident and pre-sale, but I guess there's no way to know for sure.
I have been told the most Battery that fail have been in an accident. they can't take an impact
Boulder hybrid does it correctly and you can actually see what he's doing.
I love watching videos from guys in shorts and flip flops doing something for the first time.
i dont think you find any 11 milimeter on that car . the numbers are not size labels , but strength labels !
Many thanks for your entertaining video. One of the best I've watched, especially not spending extra time prefacing the whole thing or waxing philosophic. I have a 2007 and this was my second "triangle of death" experience, the first being the inverter coolant pump, easy enough to replace. So far I've only replaced one bad cell in the array, but the car seems fine! I wouldn't do this without a code reader and software, but each to their own. Got my fingers crossed, but all my good cells read 8.3 volts and the pack seems very balanced now. Sorry you got sold a lame Prius - some people really suck. Hope your car continues to give you good service and I'm glad Electron is making the video worth your while.
How is the pack and car doing now after the 1 cell replacement? I'm hearing conflicting opinions: most of us individuals want to go the inexpensive route and replace just the cells while most shops say that's a BIG risk and to only replace the whole battery.
@@z13urgehmm they may be right but they also know they make a lot more money from the whole battery. I’d say it’s better to save money on this. The car isn’t as expensive if you get a junkyard battery or explore cheaper options.
I also have a 2005 with 182k. I just replace the fifth module since 160k. I can do the R&R in about 5 hours. How long your "fix" lasts depends on how old those modules are. All aftermarket modules are used. Toyota does not sell new modules unless they are in a new pack for at least $2000 (no labor). You might as well learn to do this because in time one module will fail and please do not buy a whole pack for one module that fails.I would replace the bad module and any weak ones and keep the rest of my newer modules for the "next time". I use no gloves and I lift it out myself. But I deadlift 225 at the gym and I'm 70 years old. Yes, it's a hassle but you're not supposed to keep the car this long. Most people trade them in when the red triangle of death comes on. Once the orange plug is out, the shock hazard is nil. It kills the series continuity. No one module is going to shock you to death.
awesome video, thank you.. now i gotta see who would sell me those cells so i can replace my 2005 prius battery.. i called Oreiley and they told me the same thing.. and i live in Hawaii.. will try, and thanks again for video..
Our 2007 Prius was parked for 8 months and no one told us to disconnect the small battery and the main battery drained because of it.
Our engine blew the head gasket and we got it fixed but now the car has issues.
We are trying to sell it.
You forgot to take the passenger side side brace off. Buy a "plug puller' for those black plastic plugs. Forget flip flops. You need traction for lifting. Buy some Reebok Nano 8 Crossfit Shoes. Don't take the top off until you have the battery between two sawhorses. You must get under the battery to get those 28 bottom nuts. Take off that flimsy metal side panel before you remove the top. You remove the bus bars not because of shock hazard but to avoid stretching the bus bars when you remove the end plate. Use a marking pen to mark the outside of the end panel (metal) and the outside of the plastic compression end panel. Make sure the 3 thermistor leads are installed the right way on the Module clip holders.Be careful with the 3 thermistor leads as Toyota does not sell a new harness. You only need to disconnect the positive on the 12 volt with a 10 mm 1/4" socket.You only need a 8mm socket for the bottom bolts and nuts for the battery connections, a 10 mm for many bolts and nuts, a 12mm socket for the big battery bolts and a 14mm for the seat backs. I don't use wrenches for anything but I use a 1/4" battery screwdriver for the small stuff and a 3/8 battery drill with male socket adapter for the big bolts. Don't believe the dealer can do it in 45 minutes. In fact, the dealer gets a shell with the modules and has to do what you do but he also has to transfer your computer end. Even the dealer techs take a few hours with power tools. They will tell you that they never "fix" by just replacing bad modules. But they will for "needy" customers or for "good will".
Great comments Stan, they'll help me out a lot. One thing though, I can't lift the battery pack out, my right rotator cuff is toast. 2 nabors within 500 acres, one is legally blind and one is 75 but not as spry as you - no help from them. I'm waaaay out in the country. Believe it or not I was 'given' my 2002 Prius. When the dealer told him he needed a $5k battery he gave up on it. When I got it the thing would still crank and run, but all the sheet metal was off the battery pack. Copper busses were corroded. I may have to watch the video again to able to form a rational question, it's been 2 weeks since I watched it first. Maybe you and I can get together later for an old codgers meeting? Lol....
Almost forgot, 162K miles on mine and otherwise looks almost mint. I'm hoping to get the Prius refurbished before the Astro van I inherited gives up the ghost at 300K miles - my 96 F150 is down too.
Awesome advice, Stan!
Stanny1 idk man, I’ve seen a real pro do it on here in 15 minutes. Of course, all he did was drop a whole new pack inside. But, It was pretty obvious this guy had done a TON of these repairs before.
Great work buddy, thanks for sharing your experience.
U don't need the vent tubes. The later generation prius doesn't even have it. I replaced my gen2 with a gen 3 battery without it. Also I took all the copper connection out and polished them all on the grinder polish wheel. Nice video. And yes.. i did mine on the driveway in my flip flops also last summer. lol
I'm looking to do the same. Any advice?
Could you please tell me we got the lithium battery, upgrade, I haven't been able to find it anywhere. My email is Jimmy Harris 2006 I really appreciate it
lol 3 weeks later... he was definitely being dishonest. They give some decent warning signs usually before they go. Also, I agree the shock hazard is overstated. There are sooooooooo many fail-safes in place to stop power when the ready mode is not illuminated. Even once that cover is off you would have to be making love to the battery to get zapped lmao. when you go to the dealer you are waiting on techs to become available.
Hehe, every Hybrid previous owner said same St words, " Battery will last forever"
Sounds like your camera/phone was twisted and beaten to the point I'm amazed it worked the entire time.
It is now 2020 how did the pack held up till now?
Thanks. I hope you don't mind if I make some suggestions. Wearing work clothes and work shoes for a start then when disassembling it is smart to mark everything for location and lay the removed parts in order of disassembly.
Good job! At least Toyota will sell you all the parts even if it's expensive, unlike some other car company like Tesla!
Good point!
I was under the impression that the batteries needed to be load balanced after replacement otherwise you receive the triangle code.
dsm wookie I got mine pre-balanced. I had a specific order to put them in from my seller.
200VDC in those batts...anything over 50VDC is nasty.
However you have the best vid on these Prius hybrids...to date.
At 5k per battery pack, too expensive worth more than the car is worth.
If you only use 1 hand and put the other one in a pocket and dont grab anything or bump your elbow etc to anything you cant get shocked with just 1 arm or hand being used, it requires both sides of power to complete the circuit, I saw a tech at SMUD grab a live 4000 volt line and said if he grabbed a railing etc with the free hand he would incinerate.
Adam, thank you for putting this video together. We just got a 2005 Prius for my 16 old daughter, it was a gift from my Dad. I feel like i can tackle the battery replacement after watching you do it in Flip Flops :-). I was wondering if you have had any issues with your headlights on your 2005 Prius? I have not been able to find a fix on line for it but thought you might know of one or have found a work around.
Thanks agin for posting this video, it was super helpful.
Brendan
Keep the camera on your hands , so we can see what you are doing .
I guess he could have done the actual work with his other two hands while he is holding the camera with his main pair of hands.
Seems like most other folks use a tripod to show what is being done. Not that tough for almost everyone else doing videos .
Well than you should have written that in your original post what you actually meant. I can only react to what I read, not to what you might have thought. ;-)
Great video, I don't have a Prius but after this might consider getting one.
what did you do with the old batteries?
Looks like they charge a core fee so he probably sent them back to the company
Adam you are a legend, thank you so much for taking the time to make such an elaborative video. This has to be the most resource full video I've seen. Unfortunately my hybrid battery just went out but I still dnt have the courage to do it myself. However thank you and I'm glad everything turned out well. Btw what sytenthem did u have wheb u learn that your battery went out. Mine was check hybrid system error and my cruise control and eco/sport setting was disabled.
thanks for sharing this great video, I will now start fixing my 2007 Toyota Camry Hybrid with "CHECK YOUR HYBRID SYSTEM" one of the video I watched he only replaced cells with less than 7V. I wonder if that is smart to do?
I also seen one video that the cooling fan for the hybrid battery can also cause the Check your Hybrid system.
The numbers on the bolt are the grade of hardness for the steel, not a numbered step or size.
How long did your batteries hold up? are they still going today?
Just changed my bad cell. Car worked fine for 10 minutes and just when I arrived to home after test drive, the lights come up again. The battery cooling fan is runing now, I never heard before. A week before just changed the inverter fluid and engine oil. When I check my inverter fluid I can see movement in the fluid but not swirling. Can be the pump is the problem now?
Instead of investing too much in a failure prone pack with used cells of unknown vintage, just search the internet junkyard sites for a newer battery. My 2005 battery died, so I bought a low mileage battery from a wrecked 2014 for only $850. Gained 9 years newer.
Good job sharing
they sent them numbered in order for the balance and you put them in out of the box and may have problems from not being
balanced
Skip to 37:00 hah got eem!
love workin on toyota.. going to be dissecting my own battery waitin on parts and some spiffy new milwaukee 12v tools. Every little bit of information helps
Hey, Adam, thank you for sharing this wonderful video. Are you still in Prove? Coz My 2008 Prius has P0a80 code now, and I am not sure whether I need to replace the whole 28 modules. There are some videos suggest to replace the bad module, do you know how to check modules? If you are in Provo, may I visit you for hybrid battery questions? Thanks
I've actually never check modules. The set I bought was pre-checked and balanced. I was a little wary of swapping one to have another fail soon after. I'd read some accounts where people wasting a ton of time with that approach. But I've also heard that it can work. Good luck!
Thank you!
Great video. The flip flops seemed inappropriate shoe ware though.
If you were a presenter on the TV you'd have to wear metal toe cap boots and a hard hat😁
somebody has been inside that battery before. also i wouldn't have changed all 28... only the low voltage cell needed replacement.
Yeah, it looked like someone had, especially with "bad cell" being etched on the outside. I heard there are other weaknesses that a voltmeter can't catch and decided to swap them all to buy me at least a little time until I need to take everything apart again. It was $1100 to swap them all (something like that). Bought as a set from Electron Automotive.
Adam Balinski look up Torque Pro in the app store or you can buy what the dealer uses called Tech Stream. Both work and can tell you which cells are bad, good, what is their voltage and more.
Joel, can you confirm that the Torque Pro app will show battery data? Some other forums imply that you have to have TechStream to get individual cell info.
Ok Adam Balinski c
JAC SlaTer r
Hi Adam. Thinking about buying an 06 Prius with a battery error code. Getting a good price on the car and if I can rebuild the battery it will be much cheaper than market price. Would this be something you'd recommend? One question about the process. When you were disconnecting the nuts connecting the batteries with the orange busses, was there a danger there of electrocution? What did you use to disconnect? Thanks, Dave
Dave, Good question. Honestly, I am no expert. Just an average do-it-yourselfer. I would rather buy a car with a bad error code, which is appropriately discounted, than a car with unknown problems that may not calculate into purchase cost. Regarding shock risks, I don't know the answer to your question. Though you need to make sure the orange safety plug is removed before touching anything.
This may have been covered somewhere else in the comments, couldn't find it by skimming through them.
The Prius bus bar is known to have serious corrosion issues. In the video when you removed the bus bar, it appeared in the video there was ample corrosion on the bus bar plates. Without cleaning off that corrosion, you are replacing batteries with a corroded bus bar plates which will give your poor a poor cell connection between cells that is only going to get worse.
Step 1 should have been to remove all the bus bar hardware and clean off all the corrosion.
Step 2 should have been to inspect all the wiring and wiring harness for dirt, corrosion etc, loose wires, check the cooling fan and clean off any dirt and debris.
Step 3 should have been to identify any bad modules by testing them under load. I understand that step is time consuming and may have been more time and effort than the poster wanted to invest in this project. This is something people will or will not tackle based on how much time they have and how much money they want to spend on this project. It is really a time and effort vs money equation. The poster has kids so I completely understand him wanting to spend his time elsewhere.
The alternate to step 3 is to do as the poster did and buy a set of balanced and tested modules as a set, which equals more money but far less time and effort. Step 1 and 2 are however critical regardless.
In many cases step 1 and 2 will get the pack working for a few months or even a year or two. Step 3 will get you more time and longer success, maybe even far longer.
Note that I am not criticizing the poster at all, but anyone who is using this as a guide would be far better off doing these steps in that order and it would be far more successful both short and long term.
Just my 5 cents. Hope it helps.
You did all this without explosives. I'm impressed.
Hey dude: I do like you show step by step how to take your Toyota Prius apart to which out the bad battery out from your Prius. But you might need to buy a coreless Impact drill. That would save you some time make your job lot faster too. Oh I do like your video that you have on here. So I hope you can make some more TH-cam video on here again. you have a friend from Houston Tx
Brave man!
Adam, did you inspect the sides of the modules for damage to the alignment posts and dimples? Modules packed tightly like that are frequently damaged during transit. I have seen them fractured to the point they will leak - particularly at the two rectangular tabs on the middle cells. Properly shipped modules are completely isolated from one another.
S Keith Good to know. I didn't notice any damage like that, but I wasn't looking too closely for it.
It's usually pretty obvious. The posts are deformed and the dimples are oblong. Sometimes, they don't fit well together.
Call me crazy but would it not be possible to take each cell off one by one and then reassemble one by one with the battery still in the trunk area thus avoid the heavy lifting out of the vehicle and then back in post battery assembly?
Toyota. Everything is a 10mm or a 12mm. I think the wheel bearing nuts are a 22 and there's some 17mm on some brake components, but you can do a lot with just two spanners :-)
You can do it quicker with a 1/4" drive Impact gun
28 cells? WHY? 26 of the old one were still good, can I have them?
Sorry, already sent them off to Electron. :)
@1Noisycricket U have to send a core. And those old cells r 100% shit. Cores on old Cells can be as high as $820.00. So him sending them for core money is actually good for him. Go clean dishes. By your Comment you're a moron
Any updates? how is this Prius doing today?
Is it worth to buy a 2001 Prius Hybrid 120k miles on it for $3.8k or lesser? I am a grad student can't afford expensive cars. I am planning to check the battery life using the OBD before purchasing. What are your thoughts?
37:00 GOT EMM
Cleaning the battery fan was also needed I think as in Chris fix video doing this he showed that. There is fan near the battery. Thanks for the video.
It looked like your ground plate for the hv cables is up side down. Are you having any trouble with your radio? Static?
THANK YOU FOR YOUR VIDEO
IS WHAT CAN YOU TELL ME BLOCK 9, BEGINNING TO COUNT FROM ECU (COMPUTER OR DRIVER SIDE TO PASSENGER OR THE CONTRARY, IT OR THE POSITION OF BLOCK 9?
THANK YOU
I have just one bad module, but I'll be swapping two. Was there any pit full to turning the battery and taking the nuts off?
You might have said it--- but I missed it. How much did it cost to replace all of the cells?
And--- this is an 2017 video, Have you had any Battery issues since?
1000 bucks
Leonis Bacher Now they just price gouging.
Ok so I need to ask. bc I can't pay all at once to replace them all. but I have a good mechanic, if I need to replace just bad cells with buying from ebay will that help me?
How many miles were on the car when you replace the batteries
Adam that was wonderful! Good job! I have a Toyota 2007 with only 130K miles on it. I had it for a year and a half. It was good to me no problems at all until the red light showed up on my dashboard. I would like to replace the bad cells only. Any recommendations on how to test the bad cells on my battery? Any recommended place from where to buy good cells? Thank you!
Oh I have a 2009 Toyota Prius myself so I hope to see more Video but I hope you can keep me update about some more TH-cam Video on your web site okAgain keep up the good work on here ok
“Watching” (more like listening) to the Dallas buyers club taking apart a Toyota Prius! ;-)
Very entertaining and I wonder if anybody did the swap but with newer types of batteries?
You did not equalize the cells, did that cause any problems later?
Please give link to the place you got the new key fob .
Have you experienced any chirping sound from the between the firewall in the inverter area as you're driving around or going to park? Mine's doing that but all the tests that they did diagnostics from the Toyota place or is showing nothing. If anybody out there has had this experience and knows what it is I would appreciate the heads-up
Still running with this bad boy ?
Interesting, you did a good job
everyday i learn something new today was your day thank u for posting
Pretty sure I would have used a sledge hammer about 1/2 way thru this project....haha!
Love this one big, single take with every detail!
The number on the head of the bolt indicates tensile strength.
Hey bro question please can i replace the second gen cells to my first gen ? Bcoz i don't find the first gen cells here where i am answer please
Wearing flip flops while working on a heavy battery with high voltage is just asking for a visit to the Hospital always wear PPG!!
Augustine Sullivan you are absolutely right. It was dumb of me to wear them. Thanks for watching!
**** PPE****
We called those "shower shoes" in the Army. That means you wear them in the shower. NOT in public, or any place else. Have some class guy.
Augustine Sullivan should always wear rubber gloves as well
Safety Salley Alert!
Excuse my language but fucking WELL DONE bro !!!. Thank you for this very very informative video. I really needed this. Thank uuuu
hello, where I can buy these modules ,I also want to rebuild my Hybrid battery, would you like to tell my where I can buy it online? how much about these modules?
I got 'em from Electron Automotive in So. Cal.
35:16 you didn’t clip the orange cables onto the orange carrier on the side of the battery when you clipped the black cover back on, but great tutorial, well done, sorry for being churlish.
Curious, before buying the Prius - did the HV Battery check good with an app like Dr Prius ?
I may buy a used Prius & would like to know if Dr Prius can be fooled.
Wow, Great video!!!
Thanks, Mark!
Adam,
Hope you are doing well. How has the hybrid cells you installed on the Prius holding up? Or would you recommend a new one? Thanks for any feedback.
I got a hold of Adam, he stated that the hybdrid battery he installed is kicking ass after 3 years.
Let the buyer beware. My new Prius Prime has Lithium Ion battery with 8 years or 80,000 miles warranty.
John Puccetti idk. We threw 40k on our Avalon Hybrid in a year. So much for a warranty.
10yr 150k in CA
My parents have a Toyota Prius that worked perfectly, for several years. Then it died. They’ve replaced (rebuilt) the battery and put $2500 into whatever “repairs” two different mechanics performed, to no avail. Would you know anyone, in the SLC area that knows how to fix hybrid engines? We were told it was just the battery. They would also sell it if someone wanted to get it back on the road. Any advise would be appreciated.
Great job!
Don't do the pull method while taking bolts out it will hurt you or.damage your back. Use the push method next time
Does anyone remove the battery completely and run on gas only?
Is this possible without the car freaking out?
Only defective modules can be found via the voltage. That means you must not change all cells. With a capacity measurement, weak modules can also be found. These weak modules are among the first to be broken the next time. I found a 7.4 volt module with only 1800 mAh. Normally old modules (year 2007) have approx. 5500 to 6500 mAh.
Here you find the way to check the capacity of your cells:
th-cam.com/video/g5KAPge-f6E/w-d-xo.html
Great video sir, thank you
how much did you spend on the new batteries...and give same adress.
Is it still running? No more battery issues?
Yep. Perfect so far. Need to post a follow up video...
Can you tell me what the place charged you for all of the replacement batteries? And are things still running well? Thanks!
Why did you replace all 28 cells? why didn’t you just read the code and figure out which Cell or cells were bad?