Thank you, Mr. Swan for another GREAT video! BTW, I shared this one w/ James Wright at "Wood by Wright". He did a video where he tried to make a dowel jig but it didn't work really good like yours. Have a GREAT day, Neighbor!
Nicely done, great video. Mount an additional block of wood with the 3/4" hole about 12" away from the "chisel" to function as a stabilizer sleeve to reduce that dowel machine wobbling.
I have been watching a lot of these dowel making jigs lately, and really like the way Izzy goes the extra steps with the cutting off of the extra corners on the original wood stick, then fitting a socket knuckle on the end of it etc, - Good work Iz
Rarely do I ever comment but this video warrants a big shout out to you, Izzy. Thanks to your simple, yet ingenious little jig and demonstration, I made beautiful and accurate 3/8" cedar dowels. Thank you, sir, for sharing your engineering mind and expertise with the rest of us.
Dear Sir! Yes I am a wise man or a dowel so far bought them after I finished item based on the video, thank you to put it up. I'm from Hungary Mustache
Izzy, guys that ask why not buy some just don't understand. It's the idea that you can make it. Anyone can buy one but not everyone can make one. It's same with everything we do in woodworking and Woodturning. Just do it and you will never want to buy it again. It's the love of woodworking and Woodturning.
Thanks, Izzy, that's so fast and straightforward. The socket drive is killer. I'm already thinking in terms of legs for simple stools, tables etc. It would make a great jumping -off point. A variant having an adjustable depth stop with a skateboard bearing in line with the axis and perpendicular sliding block on a horizontal cam clamp to hold a gouge or skew chisel could be added for some further shaping. Behold, (almost) instant basic lathe! Sure, it would chatter a bit, but so what?
Thanks Izzy. I need some cedar plugs to cover screws and bolts in outdoor furniture and cedar dowel is not easy to find if it's available at all. This should work for my needs.
The traditional tool for making dowels is a dowel plate, an iron (or better, hardened tool steel) plate with a hole having the size of the desired dowel. To make a dowel, a piece of wood is split or whittled to a size slightly bigger than desired and then driven through the hole in the dowel plate. The sharp edges of the hole shear off the excess wood.[1][2][3] (cut and pasted from wikipedia) a dowel made from split wood is stronger than cut wood..this is a much slower method and will not produce dowels as uniform as the dowels in the vid..i like your vids izzy, well worth watching
you could also use some boards with 3/4 or whatever dowel size you're making and put it on the side where the dowel comes out so it's like a guide and maybe it wouldn't jump when you get to the end of the dowel
would adding a second piece of pine with the 3/4" hole drilled in it directly behind the one you used to cut the dowel make operation even more stable?
never thought of doing it like that. I've always just drilled the size hole I needed in a piece of angle iron just cut my stock square tapered the end to fit in hole just drilled it through but you have to go back and forth a lot to get it smooth. I'm going to try yours.
If you had a thicker block would that help in keeping the feed straight all the way through? I saw something similar to this on the Woodwright's shop on PBS, you make this look very approachable!
HA! great minds think alike... well I give my self too much credit... but after fussing about trying to widdle down the end of stock to fit in my drill and getting frustrated with how much it weeble wobbles (AvE) I gots to thunkin' and hammered on a socket on the end. Work like a charm. Haven't seen anyone on YT do that yet... till now! :)
Thanks for the jig. And another thing i have to find time to make. Damn.... you do have quite a selection of jigs. I'm still hooked on making your Drill powered lathe.
For superior strength always split your wood down to size, never cut it. Splitting means your dowels will maximise the shared grain down the shaft. Your finished product will be able to endure stress forces that regular dowel or store bought dowel would turn into confetti at.
If you have a chisel to dedicate to this you can eliminate the spiral scoring by grinding/honing a radius on the trailing corner. still a great piece of kit though.
Thank you, Izzy, I am going to do this because I am fed up with spending my hard earned cash for bits of wood. Nice trick with the chisel. Thanks big Guy :)
I'm just thinking out loud here, but if you had a second piece of wood behind the jig a ways, with the same diameter hole you are dowelling to (0.75" here) and lined up with the first dowel hole...the dowel should slide into the second hole as you are pushing it through the jig and prevent the piece from vibrating and jumping at the end of the cut because it would be supported out at the end. Just a thought.
Do you think I can use this to make arrows?(so using flexible light wood) Or will they just snap due to the pressure and the fact that the needed diameter is very small?
I mostly use 8 mm (1/3 of an inch) or 10 mm (4/10 of an inch) dowels. Is it possible to make these smaller diameter dowels also with this jig? Till now I buy them (the classic 4 cm long pieces, or rods of 1 m)
One of the best ways to get the job done pronto.Thanks again Izzy.
Watched a bunch of dowel making videos. Love yours. Made it, works great. Thank you boss.
Now here's a man who think truly out of the box, thanks for sharing Izzy.
Cannot wait to make white oak pegs for my timber frame project! Thanks for the idea!!!
I like the fact that you make it simple for novices like me. I really appreciate that. You explain it very well
Genius using a socket to hold your stock. Absolutely Genius.
Thank you, Mr. Swan for another GREAT video!
BTW, I shared this one w/ James Wright at "Wood by Wright".
He did a video where he tried to make a dowel jig but it didn't work really good like yours.
Have a GREAT day, Neighbor!
Nicely done, great video. Mount an additional block of wood with the 3/4" hole about 12" away from the "chisel" to function as a stabilizer sleeve to reduce that dowel machine wobbling.
Izzy to the rescue again!
I have been watching a lot of these dowel making jigs lately, and really like the way Izzy goes the extra steps with the cutting off of the extra corners on the original wood stick, then fitting a socket knuckle on the end of it etc, - Good work Iz
Rarely do I ever comment but this video warrants a big shout out to you, Izzy. Thanks to your simple, yet ingenious little jig and demonstration, I made beautiful and accurate 3/8" cedar dowels. Thank you, sir, for sharing your engineering mind and expertise with the rest of us.
Dear Sir!
Yes I am a wise man or a dowel so far bought them after I finished item based on the video, thank you to put it up. I'm from Hungary Mustache
Thanks for the simplicity
Watching and learning. Don't know if I will ever work much with wood but if I do ever decide to thanks for teaching me all these tricks.
You made it look easier than we thought .
Thank you
Nice idea...really good for making dowels and arrow shaft also. Wonderful.
Izzy, guys that ask why not buy some just don't understand. It's the idea that you can make it. Anyone can buy one but not everyone can make one. It's same with everything we do in woodworking and Woodturning. Just do it and you will never want to buy it again. It's the love of woodworking and Woodturning.
right on Richard, once you make your own its hard to go pay for them. lol
so very simple, thanks teacher, I can not wait to made it, thanks
Thanks, Izzy, that's so fast and straightforward. The socket drive is killer. I'm already thinking in terms of legs for simple stools, tables etc. It would make a great jumping -off point. A variant having an adjustable depth stop with a skateboard bearing in line with the axis and perpendicular sliding block on a horizontal cam clamp to hold a gouge or skew chisel could be added for some further shaping. Behold, (almost) instant basic lathe! Sure, it would chatter a bit, but so what?
Very nice, perfect. Many thanks for the idea.
Dude this is amazing, thank you!!
Just made this and it works great
Thank you for sharing your dowel making jig.
Finally got around to trying this. Works great. I'm going to make a few more. Thanks!
Thanks Izzy. Using a socket to drive the dowel.....why didn't I think of that?!
КРАСАВЧИК!!!! ЗОЛОТЫЕ РУКИ!!!! В ВОСТОРГЕ!!!!
that is sweet how it leaves a boned shine. Nice job
Excellent video.
Thanks Izzy. I need some cedar plugs to cover screws and bolts in outdoor furniture and cedar dowel is not easy to find if it's available at all. This should work for my needs.
The traditional tool for making dowels is a dowel plate, an iron (or better, hardened tool steel)
plate with a hole having the size of the desired dowel. To make a
dowel, a piece of wood is split or whittled to a size slightly bigger
than desired and then driven through the hole in the dowel plate. The
sharp edges of the hole shear off the excess wood.[1][2][3] (cut and pasted from wikipedia) a dowel made from split wood is stronger than cut wood..this is a much slower method and will not produce dowels as uniform as the dowels in the vid..i like your vids izzy, well worth watching
Awesome good job.
Love my Narex chisels!
right on they are great chisels
Wow, what a nice finish straight from the tool! That came out great! Nice video Izzy.
Really really great loved it
Nice & Easy...no fancy B.S. Thank you again.
You're a clever guy and you're smart.
Really great, that can be used to do crossbow bolts, awesome
Very well done sir. quick and easy.
Very good! thanks
Man, i love your ideas and vids, but not as much as i love your shirts. they are amazing. regards from brazil.
A guide on the out feed side (adjustable of course) might help with consistency.
didn't know about this method - thanks for the video
Wow old school!! Nice
nice job Izzy
Great stuff. Great way to turn out simple broom handles or canes.
Nice tool! BTW: I have a cap wih the same wording on it - must be a "Woodworker" trait.🤠
you could also use some boards with 3/4 or whatever dowel size you're making and put it on the side where the dowel comes out so it's like a guide and maybe it wouldn't jump when you get to the end of the dowel
Could you do this with an 8' pole (1.38 diameter) or would it be too difficult to manipulate the drill and pole?
Izzy puts up links for countersinks.
Countersinks get sold out. Sheesh.
Nice vid Izzy!
Bradley Patrick Cool! Thanks!
truebluekit big ftyybbv bbhhhhhhhi
amzn.to/2d9janE
izzy swan
hu
Brilliant! Thanks
Wow that's ingenious! I'm gonna make one of these for myself!
Rock on
Excelente video Izzy, muy buena idea, gracias.
Similar to the other vid but this is much better to me, Thanks Izzy
Putting links in the description is awesome, keep up the good work
Good idea. If you used a follow through guide behind the cutter would you get rid of some of the chatter damage?
right on, i always seem to be in a hurry and never mess with making a guide but your absolutely right
Cool and easy technique. Like sharpening a pencil.
yep exactly like a pencil sharpener
Thank you for this wonderful video sir.
would adding a second piece of pine with the 3/4" hole drilled in it directly behind the one you used to cut the dowel make operation even more stable?
Good job Bro 👍
Izzy... Does size of chisel matter. The largest I have is a 1" classic bevel edged. Should It be larger?
One inch is plenty
@@izzyswan No comment!
never thought of doing it like that. I've always just drilled the size hole I needed in a piece of angle iron just cut my stock square tapered the end to fit in hole just drilled it through but you have to go back and forth a lot to get it smooth. I'm going to try yours.
Super idea 👍
Once again you made an awesome simple project!
Excellent, simple and efficient, ahhh and clean results.... thanks man, love your videos!!
wow that's a sick idea! Def gotta try this out, Thanks Izzy!!
Very useful jig, thanks for teaching. Warm regards.
Please tell what is the attachment with which you are holding the dowel in the drill gun
Hi Izzy it’s tyler jones in USA I would like to know how to make wood dowels for diy jugs to keep chisels sharp.? Please and thank you
If you cut the 2x4 vertical at a 90 degree why is the slot angled?
buen video gracias ,me gustaria que esplicaras donde se conecta al taladro,
Exelente congratulaciones por su sabiduría desde chile
MY GOD IT'S GENIOUS!!!!!! THANKS!!!!!!!
Simply and inexpensively. Good thinking. Like!
Glad you dig it
Great idea! Thanks.
If you had a thicker block would that help in keeping the feed straight all the way through? I saw something similar to this on the Woodwright's shop on PBS, you make this look very approachable!
Great ideas ...appreciate
Very cool way to make them.. Thanks izzy 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Hi Izzy, Couldn't find the link for the countersinks. Thanks, good video.
That's pretty nice! And as an added bonus you could also use it to sharpen those giant pencils 😉
Reminds me of a giant pencil sharpener! lol Nice idea!
HA! great minds think alike... well I give my self too much credit... but after fussing about trying to widdle down the end of stock to fit in my drill and getting frustrated with how much it weeble wobbles (AvE) I gots to thunkin' and hammered on a socket on the end. Work like a charm. Haven't seen anyone on YT do that yet... till now! :)
Awesome stuff. Great to see you
muito bom show parabéns acompanho seu videos sou artesao
Can we make arrow shafts like this?
nice work
Thanks for the jig. And another thing i have to find time to make. Damn.... you do have quite a selection of jigs. I'm still hooked on making your Drill powered lathe.
funny thing is i am just getting started ha ha ha
very good sir very nice sir
Any advice for making Really Thin dowels? My wife wants me to make some rosewood knitting needles, that are 2.25mm in diameter!
Thank you for your expertise
Thanks, so simple, I could do it. Sort of the same trick for tapered pins.
I suggest harder wood, to keep the hole from wearing out to a larger size.
Very nice
For superior strength always split your wood down to size, never cut it. Splitting means your dowels will maximise the shared grain down the shaft. Your finished product will be able to endure stress forces that regular dowel or store bought dowel would turn into confetti at.
This is a moot point if your stock has particularly straight grain already
Thanks for Posting it Izzy
If you have a chisel to dedicate to this you can eliminate the spiral scoring by grinding/honing a radius on the trailing corner. still a great piece of kit though.
Thank you, Izzy, I am going to do this because I am fed up with spending my hard earned cash for bits of wood. Nice trick with the chisel. Thanks big Guy :)
question the rip cut that intersects the 3/4 " hole the gap is tapered is there something that is slightly angled that i missed ?
Man, I really gotta check the dates on these things. The last video of yours that I watched was, 'I'm gettin' out of town, the hurricane's a comin'!"
I'm just thinking out loud here, but if you had a second piece of wood behind the jig a ways, with the same diameter hole you are dowelling to (0.75" here) and lined up with the first dowel hole...the dowel should slide into the second hole as you are pushing it through the jig and prevent the piece from vibrating and jumping at the end of the cut because it would be supported out at the end.
Just a thought.
Is that a simple hex nut attached to the drill?
Great. I'll make one tomorrow
Do you think I can use this to make arrows?(so using flexible light wood) Or will they just snap due to the pressure and the fact that the needed diameter is very small?
I mostly use 8 mm (1/3 of an inch) or 10 mm (4/10 of an inch) dowels. Is it possible to make these smaller diameter dowels also with this jig? Till now I buy them (the classic 4 cm long pieces, or rods of 1 m)
Love it!