I'm a retired rural letter carrier for USPS. The main mail mail truck for USPS is the LLV. This made from 1987 to 1994! The bodies were made of aluminium bolted on a Chevy S10 chassis and running gear. You still see them on duty everywhere!
The aluminum body is the biggest reason I bought my 2015 F150 with the 5.0. I don't drive a lot, and I got sick of my trucks rusting out long before they wore out. My previous truck was a 1999 F150 that I bought used. It had just turned 100,000 miles when I traded it in, but it was getting quite rusty. I have never coated the body on my 2015, but I have always kept the frame/chassis coated with Wool Wax. Living in the Northeast, we experience a lot of salt/ whatever else they use on the roads, and the truck still looks new underneath. It's got 50,000 on it now and it will be good for another 20 years.
@jaysmith179 probably more likely that the vehicles you're seeing spent time in more salty areas. It's doubtful the couple winter treatments we see each winter are starting to rust cars down here. Possible, but no where close to what they see up north.
Good thing to consider is the motor stays great and so a great supply of low mileage motors with rusted out trucks and cars. Nova Scotia exports a lot of used motors to the south.
My 2015 F150 has a perfect body, NO RUST or corrosion. While my neighbors Chevy has baseball sized rust holes in the steel body. Chevy and Dodge bashed Ford's aluminum in their commercials showing small rocks being dumped in the bed, NOW THEY ALL WENT TO ALUMINUM PANELS.
Chevy didn't go to an aluminum bed and neither did RAM. Chevy in particular already had an aluminum hood and I think doors? Chevy said their steel bed is better. I had an aluminum Ford. The Chevy bed is better.
@Bradimus1 Use a liner and don’t treat your bed like an absolute caveman and it really doesn’t matter. They’re both completely fine and get the job done
Im from Nova Scotia... The tires can rust out here. Undercoat the crap out of your vehicle every year for a fighting chance at a 10-15yr long ownership.
I like that phrase… bout the tires… I was born and raised in Youngstown Ohio. Where the frames rust out. so sad. As a young man just out of high school… the steel mills closed in our town… and I moved to Texas my Camaro got stolen right away and I ended up buying a 20 year old 59 elcamino , then later a 68 elcamino, moved to Georgia in 1984 and bought several old cars , 70 Monte Carlo and a 69 impala SS .. sadly they are all gone due mostly to growing family and money needs. It was alway a joy being under a vehicle doing whatever to it and not having rust dust falling into the eyes. Quite often I washed underneath the vehicles…. Sometimes taking pictures which I used to sell the vehicles later.. folks in Tennessee used to buy my vehicles. I guess theirs rusted still a little bit… Those old cars had paint that looked good under the body!!! What a difference .
My daily is a 5 speed manual 98 Sentra built in 97...notorious car for rusting....no rust....I am from Georgia, have since moved to Alabama....still no rust. The car is only a couple years younger than me.
I tend to think of vehicles in the maritimes not so much as rust prone...its more akin to biodegradable,they are temporary things that you're best not to get too attached too
I'm in New Brunswick and was in the undercoating game for a few years. I used to tell everyone, and still people to undercoat the day they drive off the lot with a new car. Not only do you have to every year, but have to keep the rust from even starting.
Thanks for this! I bought a 2018 F150 after getting tired of my past 2 Silverados completely rotting away here in Michigan. The F150 body is holding up pristine so far. *Fingers crossed*
2018 F150 Michigan also. Bought used a couple years ago and thought great, aluminum panels = no rust. Aluminum can corrode !But for the price of vehicles these days, I did get it under coated.
The new Ram's and Chevy's use aluminum tailgates, hoods and doors so the only rust you'll ever have on a new one of those is rockers. Which still sucks but thankfully they've started making the other panels aluminum.
We have a 2015 f150 5.0 at work, ex police truck now has 350,000km on it, hardly any corrosion anywhere and next to 0 issues, had to do a water pump at 320,000km
Are you seeing the same problem free trucks with the EcoBoost engine? What about any F250’s or F350 particularly the Diesel trucks. Anything on the 10 speed transmissions? I just bought a 2024 F350 Single rear wheel with the HO Diesel. So trying to get an idea of what problems that could come up.
@@Captain-Awesomeyou will undoubtedly have problems with all of the emissions equipment. I just replaced the front and rear NOx sensors at 104,000 miles on my 2014 F-250. Both of them were nearly $300 each. I replaced them myself, but I still had to get a mechanic to take the computer out of limp mode. I lose sleep worrying about the particulate filter failing. And the worst part is, none of that system is necessary. It’s just on the pickup because the government requires it. Plus, it’s supposedly reduces fuel consumption so it’s actually counterproductive.
@@Captain-Awesome the diesels and V8's are fine, the most issues you'll have with a diesel is the emissions system but that's any diesel pickup now. The Ecoboost's however are junk in my opinion. I used to work at a Ford dealership and the amount of F150's I've seen come back with a blown up ecoboost under 100k miles is insane. They have issues with stretching timing chains and having them jump timing along with eating turbo impellers along with a bunch of other little issues. I've told everyone I know to save themselves the headache and just get the Coyote. 1-2mpg difference, very similar power numbers, 10x more reliable.
Got a 2015 they lived it's first 3 years in Canada, northern Kentucky since. Every time I get under it to cost the frame, I'm amazed at how not only is there no body corrosion, but the paint looks new. Not only did they use quality aluminum, not only did they coat it before painting, but the underbody paint is great stuff.
@@NoahDoane 3.5 I run AMSOIL in it ... I did replace the water pump and the camphasers under Warranty... My brother's got the 5.0, he's got just over two hundred on his... just gotta put the right oil... Treat them right. They will treat you right. Gotta keep in mind one of the hardest. Working trucks on the road is Ford so I would expect a lot of problems when you're beating them up.
I also have a 2016 f150xl. 244,000+ miles, all in Wisconsin. Salt and sand used every winter. It has never been undercoated, and it still looks great. Best truck I've ever owned!
@opossumlvr1023 yep you are absolutely correct...but oil spray (which isn't undercoating) works really well to protect vehicles especially in heavy salt use areas! Cheers! Mike 🇨🇦
That’s not true if you use the correct products like krown , rust check or dura shield that’s oil base . Krown has been used by Canadians for years and older vehicles look like new
I have the same exact truck, 2016 XLT in emerald green. It's 8 years old and lives in the salt belt here in central Ohio. I did spray the entire bottom of the truck with Fluid Film when I first got it. To date, there is no body corrosion and only light surface rust on the frame. The truck is in remarkable condition and has held up far beyond my expectations. The 2007 Tundra that I had prior to this F150, in the same amount of time, had giant holes in both rear quarter panels.The frame was was seriously compromised with corrosion and holes, and all of the front suspension parts were corroded and complete seized. There was no way to adjust adjust the suspension without cutting off the parts and replacing them which would have cost about $2000.
@@davidraymond8994 I had my dodge dealer do my undercoating on my ‘98 ram , did an extremely poor job. I looked the new truck over at home and found out they did a really half assed job on it. They would not , take it back in and do it right.. I never bought another vehicle from them, and actually would not ever buy a dodge again. And I was a 40 yr dodge owner. I had the best luck with dodge trucks but when getting screwed like that I bought a ford f150
A great video! I was born in Halifax, Nova Scotia but I have been in Alberta for more than 40 years. In 2018 I bought a new F-150. I kept it for three years and sold it when Covid came along. It only had 15K KM on it when I sold it (I'm retired) and I sold it for what I paid for it. They use very little salt here, but the underside was turning brown in several areas and the chrome running boards and little wheel caps had to be replaced due to peeling chrome. It was a nice truck, but I no longer have a need for one.
I'm a retired aircraft Inspector ; 40 yrs experience . This red truck is fantastic ! I remember back in the 70's students asking our automotive teacher from high school "Why are car/truck bodies not made of Aluminum" ? Back in the 70's all the steel car/truck bodies rusted out so badly it was terrible ! A real mess ! Using Aluminum is fantastic , it's really long overdue . In my opinion Aluminum car/truck bodies should have been on the drawing board with the big three auto makers back in the early 80's . All of North America has been waiting a very long time for aluminum car/truck bodies . It's really nice to finally see . I really hope this trend will continue on for many years and carry over onto many regular car body models also . Very good video !
obviously that truck has been taken care of. somebody washes the undercarriage and engine after every warm up. The engine rust tells you that. Event he brakes not that rusty. So I would like to see a truck not taken care of. Aluminum body work is much harder to do. If you get in an accident it will cost a fortune to repair.
@@Mikefngarage Regular aluminum is the clearest most available applicable answer . Yes , there are grades of steel that would be rust free . The purchase price of these grades of steel would be higher and the machineability and or malleability would now become a factor . Another possibility would be sheets of aluminum brass or aluminum bronze .
@@johnh1001 I work on signs and aluminum in the weather is very corrosive. In CA where there is no salt on the roads, But some in the air, I see signs 10 years old that were Properly Primed, coated and have corrosion bubbles all over them. IDK I see that truck has not really been out in the weather. I am very skeptical of how this truck was used and maintained. I am pretty sure from the minute amount of rust on the steel it was really well kept. Out here signs sometimes 10 years old with .100 aluminum corroded and falling apart that are near sprinklers. completely corroded in half. I know this because i am suppose to repair them and paint them because they cannot get a permit to replace them. the steel structure although rusted but still in tact. With the metal corrosion potential and ability to repair it, I would rather have steel in most cases. Plus you have a ford which is Terribly engineered.
my buddies in the east say its all about how you maintain your vehicle as to how long it lasts. I work on Aluminum signs in the weather near sprinklers and they corrode really bad here in CA. I have seen them after 10 years .100 thick metal corroded in half from just hard water. No salt. IDK its all about washing your vehicle after it gets above freezing. Plus the oil coat undercoating which never dries. Usually the worst part on Steel toyotas is the steel frame. Steel zinc coated body still in tact. frame collapsing. They try to pawn them off here in CA. IM sure this guy does that. Because there was no real rust on the engine parts or the brakes. (usually they get the brunt of it all) I may not live in the east but it does not mean I havnt seen this stuff.
Great video Colt! It makes perfect sense that the aluminum body will hold up ok in a salt belt like we live in. But any steel untreated around here will not last. For what it costs for undercoating its worth every cent. Cheers
FYI r front edge of the hood isn't called a pinch weld, it's called a hem flange, same as the perimeter of the doors. There is a sealant applied to the area before the outer skin gets folded over the inner panel.
I just had to swap my 125k mile 2006F150 4x4 drivetrain into another 2005 F150 body/frame. I bought the 2006 new and had it professionally undercoated right away. The frame rusted from inside out as they mustve sealed in moisture. I did a lot of snowmobiling in first 5 years so it saw lots of salt but it was fully rusted through along the bottom on both sides as in under 15 years. I found a rust free 2005 just like my 2006 ( 8ft bed, ext cab, 7 lug axles, 4.10 factory gears) with 274k Miles that had a bad cam but a perfect frame that was NOT undercoated. It was $2700 I drove it 50 miles home on 6 cylinders ( bad cam/injectors/wiring). I swapped my drivetrain/ dashboard/ engine harness and dash harness into it and painted the clean frame with "chassis saver". I did the timing chains while it was out so now have a low mile 2005 rust free truck with an 8ft bed ( important for hauling drywall/plywood under closed tonneau cover in the rain)for around $4000 after doing the swap with 1200$ Ford Timing parts. I noticed the older truck has beefier frame than 2006--tow hooks much stronger. I wont buy e new truck at 60k to 80k with a plastic oil pan.
Plastic has the advantage of not rusting out, cant speak for the Ford Tritons or the GM trucks out thier, but the 4.7, 5.7 hemi trucks, and mybe the Penastar oil pans are known for rotting out... I hope the black tremclad blast i did on my 5.7 is enough... Even the Aliumion heat shields on the ex. Manifolds rot out...
@@motormossvlogs1450 first I've ever heard that. I've had a couple of Ziebart-treated cars over the years, and the stuff worked very, very well. They are a franchise shop, so it might've been your particular application, but at least around here, very few people have ever complained that I'm aware of.
I'm from the high desert of California. These are the videos I love watching. I don't have to deal with much rust over here where I am but it's fun to see how these vehicles hold up in other parts of North America
This is one of the reasons I bought the aluminum F150! After looking at used trucks for sale and finding all the rust here in Illinois I bought new in 2018 after the 2nd gen 2.7 came out. I upgraded to a 2022 and love my aluminum F150!
Same here! Chicago resident, just bought a 2023 3.5 f150. I sprayed the frame, suspension, and rear end with Fluid film. I hope to keep this truck until retirement (I'm 52).
@YankeeDoodle2 They still undergo all the crash testing that steel bodied vehicles do. Vehicles made from aluminum, fiberglass, plastic, etc. will still protect you as if it were steel. It's all the stuff you can't see. The additional bracing , how the aluminum is formed. All that makes it incredibly strong. Your safety is not going to be compromised by the type of material the body is made from.
That's actually a terrible idea for any vehicle that's subject to winter or dirt environments. It'll be impossible to keep dirt from between the layers then it'll attract moisture add the dis-similar metal corrosion and you've got big problems. not saying its a guarantee to happen but it is likely.
@@Airon79 even if that’s the case any scratches or abrasions, or drilled holes after the fact will corrode very quickly as aluminum and steel react as soon as air or water hits them. Might be a great idea for a show vehicle but I’d have to see it a few years down the line on a working vehicle. I’d like to be proven wrong! The rust issue is horrible.
I highly recommend buying wheel well liners. There are aftermarket companies that make them that are affordable. It will greatly protect the rear bed and underneath components from mud, salt, and snow from building up/ chipping there and rotting out parts. It also looks cleaner covering up everything with a smooth single piece.
Just installed them on my 2022 Stx 4x4! They look great too! Getting a line-x bedliner on Tuesday. Aluminum body is why I went with ford, loved my Silverado but rust was rearing it's ugly head on rockers, and rear wheel arches.
I agree with using a high quality OEM undercoating on a new vehicle that still clean and corrosion free. It acts like a rock guard. However, it's a bad idea to undercoat a vehicle that already has rust. Usually that makes it worse by holding moisture against the flaking metal. Best bet is still going to be under oil coating, such as fluidfilm.
@@highostablegarage I use aerosol cosmoline on my fleet. Works great. Also wicks and seals surface rust very well. Did my 2016 f250 when new and it has no rust. But on top of that they get washed every time they salt atleast weekly. Still running two 2004s.
Many service vehicles, bread trucks, mail trucks, delivery vans etc. have had aluminum bodies and they don't rust even in northern states that use salt on snow covered roads. It's a perfect material for pickup trucks and cars.
Chemical reactions essentially double for every increase of 10 degrees C ……. So when you put Vehicle in a warm garage in the winter corrosion goes way up……
I can attest to that. My 2008 Mazda5 has significant rust around the rear wheel fenders. I’ve kept in a heated (50 degree) garage during the winter here in Michigan. I’ve seen lots of other Mazda 5s here with no rust! Thought I was helping the car but, only made it worse!
Essentially nonense trivia. It implies infinite reactant and ignores that melted, salty snow drops off the vehicle, and a warmer environment dries the salt water faster which decreases the reaction substantially if not practically ceasing it. Plus you have no clue if you think that parking it outside instead of warm garage, in the same corrosive environment, is going to be better. Essentially, you aren't likely to have experience doing it both ways unless the sole scenario is an area where it almost always stays at a very cold temperature so the salty slush stays frozen.
This doesn't really make any sense. The vast majority of the rust comes from driving on salted roads so you are bringing that saltwater in on the vehicle already where it is doing damage. Humidity in the garage means almost nothing compared to that, except it will help a little, that the saltwater dries out faster but the salt still remains on the vehicle in contact with the metal, if it would have rusted more otherwise. It's hardly worth the bother unless you live in a very humid area, and quite expensive to run a dehumidifier a lot, too. @@davidkeller2832
I have a 2015 F150 in Saskatchewan where there are Chevys and rams all over the place with rust holes you could put your fist through. I have 164,xxx kms and hardly even a blemish on the couple rock chips in the wheel wells and deep scratches in the box. The frame and suspension components have some mild surface rust but decades away from being a concern. I think I like this truck even more then my old 95 F150
2015 F-150 with the 2.7 EcoBoost. 122,500 miles and so far no issues. Oil changed every 5,000 miles and it had the 100,000 mile check up work done by the Ford dealer where we bought it. We live in a state with very little snow, so we're hoping to get 200,000 miles or more.
@@kevinmccubbin2385 Does the 2.7 have a belt or chain? When I spoke to the service advisor at our dealership about it when they did the 100K I was told it was a chain.
@@kevinmccubbin2385 Since I posted this I've been doing a bit of checking on some forums and it appears that the 2015 -2017 2.7 EcoBoost uses a timing chain and in 2018 Ford switched to a timing belt. Not being much of a gear head I don't know if that is a good thing or a bad thing.
Thank you. Part of the reason that I bought a 2020 Navigator is the aluminum body panels. Where I live, the rear fenders on pickups rust first. Thanks for the encouragement!
Thanks for posting this. I drive a 2011 F150 XLT 4x4 supercrew that has both cab corner and inner/outer rockers going bad. My last truck was an 06 Lariat supercab 4x4 that had the frame rot thru in multiple areas. I had my doubts about the aluminum skin trucks having corrosion issues in the typical areas. Your video has helped me to see this isn't as much an issue as I thought it would be. I do fluid film my frame both inside and out on the 11 I currently have in order to keep the foundation of the truck solid.
Ive very curious to know how they are going to look in another 10 years, thats around the time where if the frame wasn’t protected around here it will be gone haha.
Thank you sir… yours is the first comprehensive video on this subject I’ve found. It means a great deal to me that my next truck not rust out. I hate spraying everything with oil or wax. I’ve used several professional rust protection companies over the years. My 2013 F-150 was sprayed and maintained by Ziebart but unfortunately at 160,000 I replaced the factory bed rail caps and found all the holes where the plastic clips attached were 50% rusted out. Got to digging and found several areas of the bed rusting. We ground it out and encapsulated with a military grade hard wax oil. I then sold it to a friend who wanted it because it still looked brand new inside the cab. I’m in the .5% fanatical cleaner and careful protection of even my work vehicles. I wash once a week even mid winter and I take to my dealer for routine service. I hate rust. This is sad reality of N Ohio and Canada where I live. Now…. I’ve seen folks using products that stop rust on steel body vehicles. I’ve been considering the Chevy 3500. But watching your video has me thinking Ford again. To me it’s easier to protect the frame and steel components than the entire body.
2015 Minnesota F150 with 300,000 miles. Zero issues with any aluminum body panels. E-coated frame also in very good condition for the miles and age. Ford trucks are hands down the best for the salt belt. GM still in the stone ages with tar coating on the frame. Visible rust on GM frames in the first couple years.
My niece has a ‘15 in Syracuse, NY (The Salt City!) I recently looked it over out of curiosity. It is still flawless. No corrosion, no dissimilar metal reaction. I was quite pleasantly surprised.
I live near there in Utica. I'm not sure where exactly this TH-camr lives but if he is alarmed by that amount of rust on those frame and suspension components he ought to come out our way😆 I know guys who put up their trucks for the winter and drive a winter rat truck that have more rust than that on their control arms cross members etc
most impressive..my 2016 F-160 xl (aluminum body) is clean as a pin..no rust..my state does not use salt..still might do some undercoating for peace of mind..researching best undercoat..love my truck..2.7 ecoboost..great engine also..no issues
I also have the first year aluminum body from 2015. Ruby red just like this truck. Looks damn near new 9 years later, and just turned 100K, and I live 45 miles from Chicago, square in the rust belt.
I’ve always washed my frame and underside more than the top half of the truck. I call it underbody spraying yoga cause you gotta bend low. My Toyota got its frame replaced after 9 years and 8 months after date of manufacture. I went another 6 years before I didn’t keep up with it and the cab rotted away. Had the composite bed with steel bed sides. The frame they replaced it with had a sticky coating that held up well. I just got a 2023 F150 and I’ve been washing it when it’s above freezing out as much as possible and not driving in the salt unless need be and not at high speeds to reduce the intrusion of salt water into everything.
Great video sir.... I have an 08 gmc sierra with a duramax engine with 312,000+ miles and I also live in the salt belt and the cheap GM wax undercoating has flaked off the frame over the years but I only have surface rust along the frame rails but also my frame is C channel so there's no salt to build up and eat through the frame HOWEVER towards the rear of my truck where the tail lights mounts to the body there's rust heaven behind the tail lights now as far as the wheel wells where water dirt and whatever that collects on top and behind the wheel well there's no rust our paint bubbling which i was surprised
My 2015 F150 Supercrew is the first year for the aluminum body. Living in Western NY my area uses salt like it’s free. I bought it brand new and the body panels are still like new. Some steel items and frame areas show their age but are more than fine. I changed one oil cooler line that rotted at the fitting. The steel bumpers are painted body color so the stone chips gave me tiny rust spots but a little touch up and I’m happy. I think on my next one I would probably put clear film on the front bumpers and maybe oil up the underside more often.
Great info video; I have a '15 bought new and have been very satisfied, like you. I did have transmission cooler line corrode to failure on steel tubing bend near connection with cooler at front of vehicle. Like you said, you really have to be pro-active to keep rust at bay over the long term in the salt use areas, especially underbody components made of steel. Just purchased a product called Fluid Film to treat the frame and assorted parts, and hopefully get another ten years out of what is now $50K plus truck.
Here's my tip for all. My pap worked for Ford in Ohio next to lake Erie. A coworker drive a late 40s sedan in mid 60s. Pap asked him how he kept it from rusting out. Here's what he told pap and pap showed my dad and dad showed me. Use 1 quart of any oil new or used, 1 qt new or used trans fluid, 1 tube or tub of any grease, 2 wax rings for a toilet seal, bees wax etc. Put all in a old pot, heat and mix. Spray, brush etc as undercoating. It will NOT wash off, wear off, even with a steam jenny power washer and 3500 psi. We've used this on anything we wanted to keep from rusting, farm implements, tractors, logging machinery, semis, cars, trucks, etc. With a cheap sprayer $50 Amazon, or make 1, u can save fluids from oil, trans fluid changes and protect urr ride for $10. If I don't have oils u can use mineral, baby oils etc. Even melted Vaseline works well. Most products u can buy have no petroleum in them. Just wax. And they cost a good bit. Tape up door drains and let soak with mineral oil if u don't like smell of trans fluid and let sit for a day then drain and save for next time. Take out body plugs and use a 360 spray wand, some guns come with them. Usually this will last 4 years or so at least b4 a new coat is required IF u do alot of off road, mudding etc. Even then it will just smear, not come off. This has been used since the mid 60s and does work. I was quoted $600 to get done by a company I won't mention that is known for this service. That's insane. For existing rust use food grade 60% or higher phosphoric acid. What u buy from big box places is at most 30% if that. This will convert rust and kill it. Best case is using Master Coat after killing rust. It was made for infrastructure to keep from rusting. Lasts 20 years min. If u want to save urr ride it's worth it. Done this to my Town car with 100k. Plan to keep forever. Happy motoring.
@@highostablegarage I get tired of seeing good ppl pay hundreds and hundreds of dollars on these wax products that don't last, don't do what they claim in the long run. I know that if it was made like this they'd not make $. I get it, but why spend all that time n $ for short term results? That adds up year after year. I enjoy helping others protect and keep their favorite autos on the road and rust free. I've had to tell so many that their favorite autos was unsafe and I can't put a sticker on it and it'd cost so much to report it they're better off just scraping it. Most ppl never see underside of their car like I do daily. Autos today are just not as good as they could be, or was. Autos don't have the style, character that the older models do. I'm happy to help when I can.
Do you apply that homemade coating to all parts underneath vehicle, all nuts bolts rubber etc? If so, does it remove easy when you need to change any suspension parts etc or how does it all work? I have tried fluid film but that junk washes off too darn easily... Thank you! JAY from the far west midWest
I'm very intrigued - does this concoction attract and retain dust like an oiled surface will? Does it make future repairs messy and bolts tough to remove?
@efil4kizum I think Fluid Film added to that greasy concoction would stay on the metal. The wax makes it thick. It's almost like cosmoline. I have wanted to experiment with greasy wax. I think it should have just enough wax that it cools not too sticky - or dust and road grit will make it pretty crusty
I’ve got a 2015 with 360kms mostly driven in winter with5 kids playing hockey. No corrosion on the body whatsoever and only have replaced the alternator 3 years ago snd ball joints last year.
I have the same truck here in the Ottawa valley. I had it undercoated when I bought it new, plus I put plastic rear wheel well inserts in it. Will get another undercoating this year. Retired and only putting on 5K/year… gonna have this puppy til I die!
That was a good shot of the engine, you can really see the mileage on it but the body and frame are holding up very well for the location.... And believe me I know the location 😂🤦
That makes no sense. The engine could look just as bad driving 5 miles a day and it is more time and the environment rather than mileage that causes the corrosion in the engine bay. Those metal parts will start looking like that on any vehicle that just sits outside, not even driven at all.
2015, 105000 miles. No issues with the body or powertrain at all. The painted steel front bumper needed a repaint last summer, no big deal. And the tailgate release handle started to stick due to corrosion on the pivot pins. My previous two trucks a 1994 and 2006 F-150 didn't make it to 5 years old before needing paint work on the body.
Carolina boy here , I traded my 2015 f150 six months ago , still looked new inside outside and underneath. Dang I loved that truck ! But I’m getting old, and it was time .
My 2016 175k miles looks like a new truck underneath SE Michigan. It's mind blowing. Chevy and Dodge trucks this old are starting to get bed wheel well rot already here.
I bought a 2001 Silverado (Minnesota) in 2009 that was already rusty as heck but luckily, mechanically good. Already the clean Silverado Classics are getting expensive as so many are in junkyards. Surprised no comments here about how much weight aluminum saves.
I live in Michigan, n there's no were worse with the roads!! I'm sure most will agree. I bought a 1st year 2015 f150 with the 1st year 2.7 ecoboost n have 246,000 miles on it!! So far so go. Still running at 18.7 on original turbos. Down about 1.7psi from new , but it's a ok . I do all my own wrenching on it, so I believe that helps , also I've followed everyone of the maintenance schedules in the owners manual too. It's a bit much , but results speak for themselves.
Way too close to Chicago here.. bought my wife a '16 explorer specifically for the aluminum body. Very little corrosion so far. The only oxidation issues are from where the rock chips are on the front
They seem to be a huge game changer in the rust belt for that main reason, I’m not sure what kind of alloy they used to make the panels but it doesn’t seem to corrode
Only the hood is aluminum on the explorer. The rest is still steel. I have a few 2016-2020 explorers, and they're all the same. And the hood paint prep from the factory is crap; they all bubble from corrosion in less 100k miles in the northeast
I live in Minnesota and I'm a Chevy man through and through, but these aluminum Fords are getting more and more tempting every winter. I recently bought a clean southern 2018 Silverado and have Fluid Filmed the entire truck, wash it almost every other day in the winter, and correct every paint chip that might cause rust but I know I can only prevent it for so long. I'm already seeing my gen of trucks with blown out bed sides and rockers and its disheartening knowing I spent lots of money on a truck that I know will suffer the same rusty fate no matter how diligent I am with preventing it
I have basically that truck. 2015 XLT Ecoboost 3.5. Looks great, works great, do the undercoating and I hope to run it for another bunch of years. Live in NB as well, but if you look after it, it will look after you. Throttle body sensor has been my only complaint. Damn thing failed twice and once in a dangerous situation. Hoping that does not happen again
Thats a MacPhee Ford truck from right here in Halifax Dartmouth NS! I drive a 19' F150, its a waste of time and $ to undercoat an aluminum vehicle other than THE STEEL FRAME AND COMPONENTS. Great video
You are correct, I had the frame sprayed inside and outside , differential, brake lines, any steel part woolwaxed . Didn’t bother with any of the aluminum floor pan or bed. It all still looks as new after6 yrs the stuff really works
I grew up in Idaho, with no salt on the roads. I moved to Iowa for a few years and was amazed at the salt damage! I also served in the US Navy as an aviation structural tech and am quite familiar with aluminum corrosion. When steel meets aluminum, and corrosion occurs, it is referred to as "galvanic" corrosion. I spent a lot of time repairing F-14 Tomcat panels, which are made of aluminum skins with aluminum honeycomb foil sandwiched between. The only way this video could have been better, was to have a previous generation F-150 present with typical corrosion to compare it to. But, great presentation and cadence.
One of the main reasons I bought my 17 F150 5.0 Super Crew was due to Connecticut winter resilience with the aluminum body. As for the frame, I apply Fluid Film inside and out prior to each winter season here in CT. The Fluid Film, as you probably know, will creep back over any rock salt or other abrasions that may occur from road debris giving you incredible frame protection. Great Video.. Thank you.
Blaster Metal Shield is also a great great product for the frames. NOT undercoating (terrible choice/rusts worse even)Apply the Blaster Shield and it creeps into crevices.
@@71boss39 that blaster shield is a fantastic product, it even says it lasts for at least 2 yrs, even on the inner fender wells where it’s abraded the quickest
@@mattskustomkreations Yes, since the WD in WD-40 stands for water displacement, you can look at fluid film and Blaster surface shield in the same way as they also displace moisture but like you said, because they are stickier they have the benefit of adhering to the metal better than WD-40.
I have a 2007 F150, original Ontario truck that was Krowned every fall by the original owner and myself, its a rust free creampuff. Undercoating does work. Sitting at a measly 115,000km on the 4.2L/5 speed combo. Other than the limitations of being 2WD only, it has served me very well and is an excellent truck for what I use it for. It now lives with me in Alberta and sleeps in a heated garage.
This issue has been on my mind since I bought my truck new back in 2019. Had it undercoated. Live in the salty snowy mid west where rusty fenders, rocker panels etc have always been an issue. You've given me some peace of mind with this vid. Thanks for it. subed your chanel.
I've got a 2017 F-150 XLT 5.0 with 330,000 km / 205,000 miles. *Zero* corrosion anywhere, including the undercarriage: frame, leaf springs, rear axle. Although the snow plows apply beach sand here, so that likely helps. Unfortunately, much of the paint has been "sand-blasted" off of the inside of the rear wheel wells from the coarse road sand.
im in newfoundland. which is even worse than nova scotia for rust. i have yet to see one of these aluminum fords with any body corrosion at all. at same time ive seen same year rams with absolutely no rocker panels left and chevs with wheel wells rusted. the fords are holding up by far the best. no comparison at all.
My 2016 Super Crew 6.5' box is even the same color as this truck. I love having the longer wheelbase until I park in a small parking lot. 🙂 I don't have near the miles but I have used a few cans of Fluid Film on the frame and whatever steel I can find and spray it in any opening I can and have been pleasantly surprised every fall when I apply more. My truck has had its own issues for sure but rust and corrosion hasn't been one.
Been running a 2015 f150 in Ontario Canada since new. Like you have said, the body panels all still look new. The only place I noted any corrosion was the drivers door on the lower lip seam and even then it is just a small bubble under the paint. My frame is about as bad as yours, I power wash it all the time to keep mud and salt out of it. The rear bumper is also getting some rust and I will probably replace that next year as it is also steel. What has rotted right through is all the smaller steel parts. Muffler from the cats back had to be replaced. Steel transmission cooler lines had to be replaced. Shocks and struts had to be replaced. Wheel bearings all the way around replaced. belt tensioners for accessories replaced. And don't get me started on the 4X4 hub actuators, if that goes again I am getting the delete kit. This year replacing all the old incandescent lights with new LED housings just for fun. All in all its is an immortal truck accept for the smaller steel parts which you have to keep on top of regularly. Edit: And just replace all the door latches, the old ones were prone to freezing up so I got the updated latches that solves the issue.
Look into products like Boeshield, LPS 3, 3M Rust Fighter One, Blaster Surface Shield, or even WD-40 for those areas you mentioned. Each one is a little different but all provide some level of lubricity and protection from corrosion with easy spray application from an aerosol can.
I live in Idaho where we don’t use Road salt and my 2014 f150 came from Alberta. There’s barely any rust but I do see some rust forming on the cab corners. I know Alberta doesn’t use a lot of salt but I feel like some collected there.
When Aluminum oxidizes it has to keep flaking off, like raw aluminum on a big rig running board. I've seen that flake off and degrade, but the paint helps a lot too.
Our 2015 F150 has no corrosion in Michigan with 115,000 miles. Talking about my 2009 F150, that is a diferent story. I am wrapping the thing in plastic pieces to hide the rust holes. But that is why I paid only $1700 for it ( I did have to figure out why the cam timing kept going wrong. It was the Cam position sensor plug.).
I've got a 2013 f1titty platinum 3.5 ecoboost no rust all original with 300 thousand miles..Michigan truck..still on the road to this day..runs like brand new
Where I work in the winter, we have a 2016 F-150 3.5EB as a shovel-crew truck. We load bins of salt into the beds of these trucks all of the time. Spills and freshly salted parking lots be damned, there is no body rust. I haven't looked underneath, though. 200,000 km and tons of idle hours, too. No problems!
I had a 2014 and drove it 250,000 mi in northern mn. The salt capitol. No rust. I now have a 2021 with 80,000 mi, it's aluminum body doesn't rust. It's all about maintaining the vehicle. Wash underneath as well as the outside. Great truck. ..
My 2011 Ford F150 with a 5.0L Coyote V8 in it is the last generation of the steel body, while the aluminum body of the 2015 and newer F150s don't rust but if they get dented then you either have to replace the whole panel or just live with the dent because you can't fix dents easily on the aluminum body at all like you could on a steel body.
So happy to see this, my 2010 rotted out, just replaced with a used 2020 fleet truck from Sarnia...only 50k but it looks great and want to keep it that way
I use LPS-3. I saw a friend's car he did with Fluid Film, the stuff stays drippy like he sprayed used motor oil on it. I didn't care for that. I also use CRC Marine Corrosion Inhibitor for small spot application because it only comes in aerosol cans, no bulk available like LPS-3. Before applying any of that I also put the bare frame on a rotisserie and coated it with something much tougher than anything you get from OEM, but that's just me, LoL.
@@onemoremisfit yep. I use all three of those. I use the FluidFilm inside the rocker panels and other areas where there are pinch welds. It creeps into these areas well. For every place else i also use the LPS3 (its basically a modern-day cosmoline). Dries much more firm and lasts longer than FF.
@@John_Redcorn_ For an overall undercoat the LPS-3 is tough to beat. It does not wash off. Solvent removes it easily but my heated pressure washer at moderate temp (about 120 F) does not remove it. I'm sure it would strip it if I turned the heat up to steam and put the gun close to the work, but that will strip paint too, lol. I live on a gravel road that coats my undercarriage with corrosive caked on mud. Each spring I use the pressure washer to clean away the salty mud that winter built up on it, and I'll let it dry for a day or two. When I feel around under there I find last year's coat of LPS-3 is still on there after pressure washing all the mud off. Then I'll freshen it up with another quick coat. The LPS-3 costs double what FF costs but is superior and worth it in my opinion.
As a business owner with a fleet of over 50 mixed brand half ton trucks, I can tell you that the aluminum body fords still look like new where the gm trucks of the same year you can literally look through the rust holes in the body
I have a 2018 almost the same truck same color except mines a Lariat and the 3.5 twin turbo with 125 on the clock great on gas I Heat hydraulic fluid up and spray the steel parts then use undercoating a few days later my last truck was a 2011 it rotted out what seems like overnight rockers the box was about to fall off it was bad I also live 700 feet from the Bay of Fundy Nova Scotia this new truck Aluminum panels are holding up great
2017 f450 here with 450,000 kms work truck, has seen lots of salt but I take care of it, I keep it clean, lots of folks think it’s brand new when they see it.
In 2020 I bought a new F150 Super Crew Cab 4X4. Two things that I did real quick was to under coat everything. Then I bought some wheel well liners to protect the real wheel wells and frame. Those things are awesome and well worth the cost! I would recommend that anybody that plans on keeping their truck invest in a pair. Oh a 3rd thing that I did was on the front inner fender wheel wells, that gap between the wheel well and upper control arm. I spent some time making a flap to cover that gap. It does wonders in keeping the crap , road salt and corrosion off from the exhaust manifolds and turbos. At one time manufactures did stuff like that , but not any more. Then of course I always have to add window vent visors , a hood protector and mud flaps. I went with Ford because I got sick and tired of trying to stay ahead of body rust on my Sierra. OH plus I gained about 10 mpg with the 2.7L verses the 5.3L that was in my Sierra. I am still loving my Ford!
I have a 2010 Ford Fusion. The radiator rusted out. The transmission cooling lines rusted out. The sub frame rusted out. The entire gas tank rusted out. The rocker panels are almost gone from rust. The factory calipers seized from rust.The entire body has rust spots. All this before 110,000 miles. The only good thing, it has a Mazda engine. I've kept all receipts.
@@m.thomas6222 Assembly is not the same as "Wholly manufactured". That car is a Mazda design. Putting Ford badges on it doesn't change that fact. Remember how Japanese cars were total rust buckets until the mid 80s?
@@jamesbosworth4191Japanese cars were (past tense) a concern. North America sold Japan garbage metal. Japanese cars were also less money. I've had 4 Fords. Each one disintegrated by rust. My next car will be a used Lexus. It will still be more reliable than a new Ford. The fusion was made in Mexico Under licence to ford.
Great review ! I have a 2002 4x4 F 250 I inherited. The owner just had new bed, front fenders, doors and a nice paint job. Trouble was the frame was neglected its entire life. So after a weld job on front right frame it otherwise was soild enough. Heres my under rust resistant spray. A pressure washer cleaning. Completely dry it out. The liquid elixir. A spray bottle from Lucas Slick mist or whatever. Load itbup a penetrol, kerosene, 90w oil and black Rustoleum oil based paint. You will need to reload multiple times. Take 3 aspirin. Put on crap clothes with a Hoodia. Glasses. A covid mask. Find a gravel driveway. Make a tarp with cushion to scoot around on and a flashlight. Then go for it. Not just once but three times after to get what you miss. Ive done this to my four vehicles and do it every year. Helps if your compulsive obsessive. Once you've done it good once, those next year reapplications are easier. Sry for the rant but your aluminum body review was inspirational. 👏
Ive just bought a 2017 F250 with 160 km on it. It is my third super duty truck. i cant believe how clean it is. The aluminium was a very good decision for truck here in Quebec canada where salt is all over the road in the winter time.
I have a 2016 5.0. 190,000mi. Been a great truck with regular maintenance. I have small paint spots flaking at the edges above the windshield, passenger side roof crease above the door, and tailgate where the top plastic rail meets the aluminum. It’s very minimal. I attribute it to being parked in the sun all day while I’m at work.
I’d much rather be enjoying the power and comfort of a newer truck over an obs any day! They are over rated unless your on a farm. And the feeling of falling off the seat in the obs is awesome too😂
@@anthonys7534 Just say that mine is a pretty solid shitbox. But unlike a new truck, I get 26mpg. It's more comfortable to me than most new trucks, and it was paid off twenty years ago. It definitely has drawbacks though.
I work at a dealership in western NY. The bodies seem to be holding up okay, but other things like transmission cooler lines have been rotting out faster than you'd expect. From what I see of the truck here, it looks much better than what we typically see in the shop. We also have replaced quite a few aluminum hoods for Explorers, too.
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I'm a retired rural letter carrier for USPS. The main mail mail truck for USPS is the LLV. This made from 1987 to 1994! The bodies were made of aluminium bolted on a Chevy S10 chassis and running gear. You still see them on duty everywhere!
Yes but are 1/16th. Inch thick
@@larrycumbo2023 so if it’s supposedly a 1/16th thick it won’t ever corrode? Corrosion lives on the surface whether it’s a 1/2” thick or a 1/32”
@@paulhunter9613 wrong corrosion starts inside out.and thicker aluminum will take very long to corrode
@@larrycumbo2023 so the corrosion starts inside the piece of aluminum? With no oxygen present?
Body shop by me in Chicagoland does alot of frame swaps on them, so I guess gm is still making old s10 frames just for USPS
The aluminum body is the biggest reason I bought my 2015 F150 with the 5.0. I don't drive a lot, and I got sick of my trucks rusting out long before they wore out. My previous truck was a 1999 F150 that I bought used. It had just turned 100,000 miles when I traded it in, but it was getting quite rusty. I have never coated the body on my 2015, but I have always kept the frame/chassis coated with Wool Wax. Living in the Northeast, we experience a lot of salt/ whatever else they use on the roads, and the truck still looks new underneath. It's got 50,000 on it now and it will be good for another 20 years.
Same truck as me and same undercoat. Mines perfect at 105k
Same truck, fluid film coat, doing great at 145k
Awsome!! Same year but with 2.7 for me got 89k
Ya, those non rrubberized undercoats are awesome, do em yearly if youll keep em a while.
Mine is still looking like new built April 7, 2015. While the one it replaced a 2002 was rusted all over the place at 9 years.
So glad I live in the Southern United States where even a 30 year old vehicle that was never treated still looks brand new underneath.
I live the the south to but I am starting to see some rust on cars because lately. Tennessee is loving there road salt.
@jaysmith179 probably more likely that the vehicles you're seeing spent time in more salty areas. It's doubtful the couple winter treatments we see each winter are starting to rust cars down here. Possible, but no where close to what they see up north.
Just ONE of many benefits of living in the South.
Kentucky: YEA YEA OUR VEHICLES NEVER RUST IN THE SOUTH😅
Good thing to consider is the motor stays great and so a great supply of low mileage motors with rusted out trucks and cars. Nova Scotia exports a lot of used motors to the south.
My 2015 F150 has a perfect body, NO RUST or corrosion. While my neighbors Chevy has baseball sized rust holes in the steel body. Chevy and Dodge bashed Ford's aluminum in their commercials showing small rocks being dumped in the bed, NOW THEY ALL WENT TO ALUMINUM PANELS.
Chevy didn't go to an aluminum bed and neither did RAM. Chevy in particular already had an aluminum hood and I think doors? Chevy said their steel bed is better. I had an aluminum Ford. The Chevy bed is better.
@Bradimus1 Use a liner and don’t treat your bed like an absolute caveman and it really doesn’t matter. They’re both completely fine and get the job done
@@MFS45 the Chevy bed is better for more reasons than the material. Not saying I wouldn't buy another Ford. It's just the way it is.
@@Bradimus1 FUNNY I DONT SEE A GENRATOR ON THE CHEVS
@@joelcollins5586 THAT IS FUNNY HAHA GOBLESS
Im from Nova Scotia... The tires can rust out here. Undercoat the crap out of your vehicle every year for a fighting chance at a 10-15yr long ownership.
I like that phrase… bout the tires… I was born and raised in Youngstown Ohio. Where the frames rust out. so sad. As a young man just out of high school… the steel mills closed in our town… and I moved to Texas my Camaro got stolen right away and I ended up buying a 20 year old 59 elcamino , then later a 68 elcamino, moved to Georgia in 1984 and bought several old cars , 70 Monte Carlo and a 69 impala SS .. sadly they are all gone due mostly to growing family and money needs. It was alway a joy being under a vehicle doing whatever to it and not having rust dust falling into the eyes. Quite often I washed underneath the vehicles…. Sometimes taking pictures which I used to sell the vehicles later.. folks in Tennessee used to buy my vehicles. I guess theirs rusted still a little bit…
Those old cars had paint that looked good under the body!!! What a difference .
My daily is a 5 speed manual 98 Sentra built in 97...notorious car for rusting....no rust....I am from Georgia, have since moved to Alabama....still no rust. The car is only a couple years younger than me.
I tend to think of vehicles in the maritimes not so much as rust prone...its more akin to biodegradable,they are temporary things that you're best not to get too attached too
I'm in New Brunswick and was in the undercoating game for a few years. I used to tell everyone, and still people to undercoat the day they drive off the lot with a new car. Not only do you have to every year, but have to keep the rust from even starting.
False. Undercoat locks in moisture You need to use rust prevention like Fluid Film
Thanks for this! I bought a 2018 F150 after getting tired of my past 2 Silverados completely rotting away here in Michigan. The F150 body is holding up pristine so far. *Fingers crossed*
Same 170k miles not a drop of rust on any panel's
2018 F150 Michigan also. Bought used a couple years ago and thought great, aluminum panels = no rust. Aluminum can corrode !But for the price of vehicles these days, I did get it under coated.
New Chevy stuff is junk.
2018 F150 Xlt supercrew with 300,000 km up in Alberta, Can. Am the original owner -still rock solid! Am still happy with the truck.
The new Ram's and Chevy's use aluminum tailgates, hoods and doors so the only rust you'll ever have on a new one of those is rockers. Which still sucks but thankfully they've started making the other panels aluminum.
We have a 2015 f150 5.0 at work, ex police truck now has 350,000km on it, hardly any corrosion anywhere and next to 0 issues, had to do a water pump at 320,000km
Yes sir that’s a very faithful truck
Are you seeing the same problem free trucks with the EcoBoost engine? What about any F250’s or F350 particularly the Diesel trucks. Anything on the 10 speed transmissions?
I just bought a 2024 F350 Single rear wheel with the HO Diesel. So trying to get an idea of what problems that could come up.
@@Captain-Awesomeyou will undoubtedly have problems with all of the emissions equipment. I just replaced the front and rear NOx sensors at 104,000 miles on my 2014 F-250. Both of them were nearly $300 each. I replaced them myself, but I still had to get a mechanic to take the computer out of limp mode. I lose sleep worrying about the particulate filter failing. And the worst part is, none of that system is necessary. It’s just on the pickup because the government requires it. Plus, it’s supposedly reduces fuel consumption so it’s actually counterproductive.
@@Captain-Awesome the diesels and V8's are fine, the most issues you'll have with a diesel is the emissions system but that's any diesel pickup now. The Ecoboost's however are junk in my opinion. I used to work at a Ford dealership and the amount of F150's I've seen come back with a blown up ecoboost under 100k miles is insane. They have issues with stretching timing chains and having them jump timing along with eating turbo impellers along with a bunch of other little issues. I've told everyone I know to save themselves the headache and just get the Coyote. 1-2mpg difference, very similar power numbers, 10x more reliable.
316k miles on my Coyote 150.. A water pump..That's it .Best truck I ever owned
Good to see the newer trucks holding up from the standpoint of rust. Mechanical issues might be another story.
Got a 2015 they lived it's first 3 years in Canada, northern Kentucky since. Every time I get under it to cost the frame, I'm amazed at how not only is there no body corrosion, but the paint looks new. Not only did they use quality aluminum, not only did they coat it before painting, but the underbody paint is great stuff.
Love my 2018 f150 321468 miles on it same motor and transmission and no rust any where on it. Good job ford motor company best hands down.
nah, all american-made vehicles suck.
New fords are so junk lol
@@calebbryan8600 I totally agree!
What motor? That's pretty good
@@NoahDoane 3.5 I run AMSOIL in it ... I did replace the water pump and the camphasers under Warranty... My brother's got the 5.0, he's got just over two hundred on his... just gotta put the right oil... Treat them right. They will treat you right. Gotta keep in mind one of the hardest. Working trucks on the road is Ford so I would expect a lot of problems when you're beating them up.
I also have a 2016 f150xl. 244,000+ miles, all in Wisconsin. Salt and sand used every winter. It has never been undercoated, and it still looks great. Best truck I've ever owned!
Undercoat makes vehicles rot out faster, water and salt creeps under the under the undercoat and it creates a perfect environment for corrosion.
@opossumlvr1023 yep you are absolutely correct...but oil spray (which isn't undercoating) works really well to protect vehicles especially in heavy salt use areas!
Cheers!
Mike 🇨🇦
@@michaellippmann4474A leaky oil plug on your engine oil pan will do more to protect your car from corrosion than any undercoating company.
What do you have under the hood? Thinking of getting a Ford.
That’s not true if you use the correct products like krown , rust check or dura shield that’s oil base . Krown has been used by Canadians for years and older vehicles look like new
I have the same exact truck, 2016 XLT in emerald green. It's 8 years old and lives in the salt belt here in central Ohio. I did spray the entire bottom of the truck with Fluid Film when I first got it. To date, there is no body corrosion and only light surface rust on the frame. The truck is in remarkable condition and has held up far beyond my expectations. The 2007 Tundra that I had prior to this F150, in the same amount of time, had giant holes in both rear quarter panels.The frame was was seriously compromised with corrosion and holes, and all of the front suspension parts were corroded and complete seized. There was no way to adjust adjust the suspension without cutting off the parts and replacing them which would have cost about $2000.
Did you fluid film the Toyota?
You have to be careful with even eating French fries with salt in a Toyota 😝
Does the dealership do that coating? I have never gotten undercoat from the dealer but might if I decide on an F150 5.0.
You should come up to the NE corner of the state, they really Salt & Treet there.
@@davidraymond8994 I had my dodge dealer do my undercoating on my ‘98 ram , did an extremely poor job. I looked the new truck over at home and found out they did a really half assed job on it. They would not ,
take it back in and do it right.. I never bought another vehicle from them, and actually would not ever buy a dodge again. And I was a 40 yr dodge owner. I had the best luck with dodge trucks but when getting screwed like that I bought a ford f150
A great video! I was born in Halifax, Nova Scotia but I have been in Alberta for more than 40 years. In 2018 I bought a new F-150. I kept it for three years and sold it when Covid came along. It only had 15K KM on it when I sold it (I'm retired) and I sold it for what I paid for it. They use very little salt here, but the underside was turning brown in several areas and the chrome running boards and little wheel caps had to be replaced due to peeling chrome. It was a nice truck, but I no longer have a need for one.
My 12th gen f150 came from Alberta and I was surprised on how not rusty it was. When I hear Canada I expect a lot of rust
Glad I bought mine !!!
I'm a retired aircraft Inspector ; 40 yrs experience . This red truck is fantastic ! I remember back in the 70's students asking our automotive teacher from high school "Why are car/truck bodies not made of Aluminum" ? Back in the 70's all the steel car/truck bodies rusted out so badly it was terrible ! A real mess !
Using Aluminum is fantastic , it's really long overdue . In my opinion Aluminum car/truck bodies should have been on the drawing board with the big three auto makers back in the early 80's . All of North America has been waiting a very long time for aluminum car/truck bodies . It's really nice to finally see .
I really hope this trend will continue on for many years and carry over onto many regular car body models also . Very good video !
obviously that truck has been taken care of. somebody washes the undercarriage and engine after every warm up. The engine rust tells you that. Event he brakes not that rusty. So I would like to see a truck not taken care of. Aluminum body work is much harder to do. If you get in an accident it will cost a fortune to repair.
@@Mikefngarage Regular aluminum is the clearest most available applicable answer . Yes , there are grades of steel that would be rust free . The purchase price of these grades of steel would be higher and the machineability and or malleability would now become a factor . Another possibility would be sheets of aluminum brass or aluminum bronze .
@@johnh1001 I work on signs and aluminum in the weather is very corrosive. In CA where there is no salt on the roads, But some in the air, I see signs 10 years old that were Properly Primed, coated and have corrosion bubbles all over them. IDK I see that truck has not really been out in the weather. I am very skeptical of how this truck was used and maintained. I am pretty sure from the minute amount of rust on the steel it was really well kept. Out here signs sometimes 10 years old with .100 aluminum corroded and falling apart that are near sprinklers. completely corroded in half. I know this because i am suppose to repair them and paint them because they cannot get a permit to replace them. the steel structure although rusted but still in tact. With the metal corrosion potential and ability to repair it, I would rather have steel in most cases. Plus you have a ford which is Terribly engineered.
my buddies in the east say its all about how you maintain your vehicle as to how long it lasts. I work on Aluminum signs in the weather near sprinklers and they corrode really bad here in CA. I have seen them after 10 years .100 thick metal corroded in half from just hard water. No salt. IDK its all about washing your vehicle after it gets above freezing. Plus the oil coat undercoating which never dries. Usually the worst part on Steel toyotas is the steel frame. Steel zinc coated body still in tact. frame collapsing. They try to pawn them off here in CA. IM sure this guy does that. Because there was no real rust on the engine parts or the brakes. (usually they get the brunt of it all) I may not live in the east but it does not mean I havnt seen this stuff.
@@johnh1001 simple answer. Aluminum does not have the same tensile strength as steel.
Great video Colt! It makes perfect sense that the aluminum body will hold up ok in a salt belt like we live in. But any steel untreated around here will not last. For what it costs for undercoating its worth every cent. Cheers
100%, undercoat everything you still want to have in 20 years. Best way to look at it
@@highostablegarage joe dirt!!!!!!!!!!!!! lol
FYI r front edge of the hood isn't called a pinch weld, it's called a hem flange, same as the perimeter of the doors. There is a sealant applied to the area before the outer skin gets folded over the inner panel.
Thank you for the correction 👌
believe there is an adhesive used as well.
I just had to swap my 125k mile 2006F150 4x4 drivetrain into another 2005 F150 body/frame. I bought the 2006 new and had it professionally undercoated right away. The frame rusted from inside out as they mustve sealed in moisture. I did a lot of snowmobiling in first 5 years so it saw lots of salt but it was fully rusted through along the bottom on both sides as in under 15 years. I found a rust free 2005 just like my 2006 ( 8ft bed, ext cab, 7 lug axles, 4.10 factory gears) with 274k Miles that had a bad cam but a perfect frame that was NOT undercoated. It was $2700 I drove it 50 miles home on 6 cylinders ( bad cam/injectors/wiring). I swapped my drivetrain/ dashboard/ engine harness and dash harness into it and painted the clean frame with "chassis saver". I did the timing chains while it was out so now have a low mile 2005 rust free truck with an 8ft bed ( important for hauling drywall/plywood under closed tonneau cover in the rain)for around $4000 after doing the swap with 1200$ Ford Timing parts. I noticed the older truck has beefier frame than 2006--tow hooks much stronger. I wont buy e new truck at 60k to 80k with a plastic oil pan.
Was this ziebart undercoating? Or any other rubber type? Cause ziebart is the worst thing you can put on a vehicle.
Ya the rubberized ftL
So the thing fell apart and you bought another?
Plastic has the advantage of not rusting out, cant speak for the Ford Tritons or the GM trucks out thier, but the 4.7, 5.7 hemi trucks, and mybe the Penastar oil pans are known for rotting out...
I hope the black tremclad blast i did on my 5.7 is enough...
Even the Aliumion heat shields on the ex. Manifolds rot out...
@@motormossvlogs1450 first I've ever heard that. I've had a couple of Ziebart-treated cars over the years, and the stuff worked very, very well. They are a franchise shop, so it might've been your particular application, but at least around here, very few people have ever complained that I'm aware of.
I'm from the high desert of California. These are the videos I love watching. I don't have to deal with much rust over here where I am but it's fun to see how these vehicles hold up in other parts of North America
Oh youre a member of the 1984 666 california regime
This is one of the reasons I bought the aluminum F150! After looking at used trucks for sale and finding all the rust here in Illinois I bought new in 2018 after the 2nd gen 2.7 came out. I upgraded to a 2022 and love my aluminum F150!
Same here! Chicago resident, just bought a 2023 3.5 f150.
I sprayed the frame, suspension, and rear end with Fluid film. I hope to keep this truck until retirement (I'm 52).
Or until you have a crash in it and it crushes you because of the weak metal
@YankeeDoodle2 They still undergo all the crash testing that steel bodied vehicles do. Vehicles made from aluminum, fiberglass, plastic, etc. will still protect you as if it were steel. It's all the stuff you can't see. The additional bracing , how the aluminum is formed. All that makes it incredibly strong. Your safety is not going to be compromised by the type of material the body is made from.
@@MikeAnderson-uj3oo those facts you provided @yankeedoddle will confuse him for sure😖
There’s a very smart Korean guy in Maine making steel frames encased in aluminum sheeting. Absolutely stunning work and engineering.
Whereabouts in Maine if ya don't mind my asking.
✌️🍩
That's actually a terrible idea for any vehicle that's subject to winter or dirt environments. It'll be impossible to keep dirt from between the layers then it'll attract moisture add the dis-similar metal corrosion and you've got big problems. not saying its a guarantee to happen but it is likely.
@@robbalinski1606 I concur!
Maybe it would work if he is electroplating the aluminum onto the steel or dumping the steel into molten aluminum .
@@Airon79 even if that’s the case any scratches or abrasions, or drilled holes after the fact will corrode very quickly as aluminum and steel react as soon as air or water hits them. Might be a great idea for a show vehicle but I’d have to see it a few years down the line on a working vehicle. I’d like to be proven wrong! The rust issue is horrible.
I was just having this conversation with a potential buyer yesterday. They Are certainly holding up well. Great video.
Glad it helped out!
Spray oil for undercoat is much better
@@wendwllhickey6426 oil is actually not good for rubber bushings and hoses! It can soften them. Best to stick with an actual undercoating product.
@@OldeCarrGuy that’s why I used woolwax as it’s not petroleum based and affecting rubber parts
I highly recommend buying wheel well liners. There are aftermarket companies that make them that are affordable. It will greatly protect the rear bed and underneath components from mud, salt, and snow from building up/ chipping there and rotting out parts. It also looks cleaner covering up everything with a smooth single piece.
Just installed them on my 2022 Stx 4x4! They look great too! Getting a line-x bedliner on Tuesday. Aluminum body is why I went with ford, loved my Silverado but rust was rearing it's ugly head on rockers, and rear wheel arches.
They can also seal in mud and moisture, causing rust and rot issues.
I agree with using a high quality OEM undercoating on a new vehicle that still clean and corrosion free. It acts like a rock guard. However, it's a bad idea to undercoat a vehicle that already has rust. Usually that makes it worse by holding moisture against the flaking metal.
Best bet is still going to be under oil coating, such as fluidfilm.
Correct, best off the shelf products I’ve I’ve heard of here would be crown, fluid film, cosmoline, and wool wax
@@highostablegarage I use pur-15 on older vehicles. It reacts with the iron oxide and turns it into iron phosphate.
Tbh that looks like a Florida truck, They are doing very well for a truck in the salt belt,
@@highostablegarage I use aerosol cosmoline on my fleet. Works great. Also wicks and seals surface rust very well. Did my 2016 f250 when new and it has no rust. But on top of that they get washed every time they salt atleast weekly. Still running two 2004s.
@@austinaubinoewasing is doing more than undercoating.
Many service vehicles, bread trucks, mail trucks, delivery vans etc. have had aluminum bodies and they don't rust even in northern states that use salt on snow covered roads. It's a perfect material for pickup trucks and cars.
Chemical reactions essentially double for every increase of 10 degrees C ……. So when you put Vehicle in a warm garage in the winter corrosion goes way up……
However, if you put a dehumidifier in the garage and the garage is adequately sealed, you can pull the humidity down low enough to stop rust too.
I can attest to that. My 2008 Mazda5 has significant rust around the rear wheel fenders. I’ve kept in a heated (50 degree) garage during the winter here in Michigan. I’ve seen lots of other Mazda 5s here with no rust! Thought I was helping the car but, only made it worse!
Essentially nonense trivia. It implies infinite reactant and ignores that melted, salty snow drops off the vehicle, and a warmer environment dries the salt water faster which decreases the reaction substantially if not practically ceasing it. Plus you have no clue if you think that parking it outside instead of warm garage, in the same corrosive environment, is going to be better.
Essentially, you aren't likely to have experience doing it both ways unless the sole scenario is an area where it almost always stays at a very cold temperature so the salty slush stays frozen.
No, you didn't make it worse doing that. You made it worse by driving on salted roads more than other people, or not undercoating. @@mark8684
This doesn't really make any sense. The vast majority of the rust comes from driving on salted roads so you are bringing that saltwater in on the vehicle already where it is doing damage. Humidity in the garage means almost nothing compared to that, except it will help a little, that the saltwater dries out faster but the salt still remains on the vehicle in contact with the metal, if it would have rusted more otherwise. It's hardly worth the bother unless you live in a very humid area, and quite expensive to run a dehumidifier a lot, too. @@davidkeller2832
I have a 2015 F150 in Saskatchewan where there are Chevys and rams all over the place with rust holes you could put your fist through. I have 164,xxx kms and hardly even a blemish on the couple rock chips in the wheel wells and deep scratches in the box. The frame and suspension components have some mild surface rust but decades away from being a concern. I think I like this truck even more then my old 95 F150
2015 F-150 with the 2.7 EcoBoost. 122,500 miles and so far no issues. Oil changed every 5,000 miles and it had the 100,000 mile check up work done by the Ford dealer where we bought it. We live in a state with very little snow, so we're hoping to get 200,000 miles or more.
Watch the timing belt at that age... oil bath design, rots and cracks
@@kevinmccubbin2385 Does the 2.7 have a belt or chain? When I spoke to the service advisor at our dealership about it when they did the 100K I was told it was a chain.
@@subiesojourner777 belt, unfortunately, at least in my year 🙃
@@kevinmccubbin2385 Since I posted this I've been doing a bit of checking on some forums and it appears that the 2015 -2017 2.7 EcoBoost uses a timing chain and in 2018 Ford switched to a timing belt. Not being much of a gear head I don't know if that is a good thing or a bad thing.
@@subiesojourner777 oil on belts is never a good thing, love my ecoboost, not looking forward to my belt service...
Thank you. Part of the reason that I bought a 2020 Navigator is the aluminum body panels. Where I live, the rear fenders on pickups rust first. Thanks for the encouragement!
Thanks for posting this. I drive a 2011 F150 XLT 4x4 supercrew that has both cab corner and inner/outer rockers going bad. My last truck was an 06 Lariat supercab 4x4 that had the frame rot thru in multiple areas. I had my doubts about the aluminum skin trucks having corrosion issues in the typical areas. Your video has helped me to see this isn't as much an issue as I thought it would be. I do fluid film my frame both inside and out on the 11 I currently have in order to keep the foundation of the truck solid.
Always wondered on these, I bet in 10 years I'll buy a used one with a good undercoated frame 👍
Ive very curious to know how they are going to look in another 10 years, thats around the time where if the frame wasn’t protected around here it will be gone haha.
Thank you sir… yours is the first comprehensive video on this subject I’ve found. It means a great deal to me that my next truck not rust out. I hate spraying everything with oil or wax. I’ve used several professional rust protection companies over the years. My 2013 F-150 was sprayed and maintained by Ziebart but unfortunately at 160,000 I replaced the factory bed rail caps and found all the holes where the plastic clips attached were 50% rusted out. Got to digging and found several areas of the bed rusting. We ground it out and encapsulated with a military grade hard wax oil. I then sold it to a friend who wanted it because it still looked brand new inside the cab. I’m in the .5% fanatical cleaner and careful protection of even my work vehicles. I wash once a week even mid winter and I take to my dealer for routine service.
I hate rust.
This is sad reality of N Ohio and Canada where I live. Now…. I’ve seen folks using products that stop rust on steel body vehicles. I’ve been considering the Chevy 3500. But watching your video has me thinking Ford again. To me it’s easier to protect the frame and steel components than the entire body.
2015 Minnesota F150 with 300,000 miles. Zero issues with any aluminum body panels. E-coated frame also in very good condition for the miles and age. Ford trucks are hands down the best for the salt belt. GM still in the stone ages with tar coating on the frame. Visible rust on GM frames in the first couple years.
Ford doesn't galvanize their frames
Correct I meant E- coated frames. The frames are dipped and electro charged paint. Thanks for the correction
I have driven Ford Pickups since 1970. Right now 2024, I drive a 1967 Ford F100 original…old Fords never die they just look better….nuff said..
they do not want their trucks tp last over 225 k miles
Huh? I was told only Tundras can last that long!
My niece has a ‘15 in Syracuse, NY (The Salt City!) I recently looked it over out of curiosity. It is still flawless. No corrosion, no dissimilar metal reaction. I was quite pleasantly surprised.
I live near there in Utica. I'm not sure where exactly this TH-camr lives but if he is alarmed by that amount of rust on those frame and suspension components he ought to come out our way😆 I know guys who put up their trucks for the winter and drive a winter rat truck that have more rust than that on their control arms cross members etc
I have wondered this for years, thank you so much for such a clever video.
most impressive..my 2016 F-160 xl (aluminum body) is clean as a pin..no rust..my state does not use salt..still might do some undercoating for peace of mind..researching best undercoat..love my truck..2.7 ecoboost..great engine also..no issues
Thats still a great truck that deserves whatever underbody protection the owners can give it. Its a keeper.
I also have the first year aluminum body from 2015. Ruby red just like this truck. Looks damn near new 9 years later, and just turned 100K, and I live 45 miles from Chicago, square in the rust belt.
Great informative video, I like your excitement on the topic. Love to hear certain phrases from our Canadian neighbors…”ball it up”.
I was thinking the same thing “A” (eh)
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I’ve always washed my frame and underside more than the top half of the truck. I call it underbody spraying yoga cause you gotta bend low. My Toyota got its frame replaced after 9 years and 8 months after date of manufacture. I went another 6 years before I didn’t keep up with it and the cab rotted away. Had the composite bed with steel bed sides. The frame they replaced it with had a sticky coating that held up well. I just got a 2023 F150 and I’ve been washing it when it’s above freezing out as much as possible and not driving in the salt unless need be and not at high speeds to reduce the intrusion of salt water into everything.
Great video sir.... I have an 08 gmc sierra with a duramax engine with 312,000+ miles and I also live in the salt belt and the cheap GM wax undercoating has flaked off the frame over the years but I only have surface rust along the frame rails but also my frame is C channel so there's no salt to build up and eat through the frame HOWEVER towards the rear of my truck where the tail lights mounts to the body there's rust heaven behind the tail lights now as far as the wheel wells where water dirt and whatever that collects on top and behind the wheel well there's no rust our paint bubbling which i was surprised
C frames were way better lasting for rust issues imo
Love the older real trucks. New ones arent worth the money
My 2015 F150 Supercrew is the first year for the aluminum body. Living in Western NY my area uses salt like it’s free. I bought it brand new and the body panels are still like new. Some steel items and frame areas show their age but are more than fine. I changed one oil cooler line that rotted at the fitting. The steel bumpers are painted body color so the stone chips gave me tiny rust spots but a little touch up and I’m happy. I think on my next one I would probably put clear film on the front bumpers and maybe oil up the underside more often.
My Electrician has a 2013 f150 Ecoboost with 325k miles with zero issues and zero rust. In Delaware where no salt on roads are allowed.
The F150 Aluminum body started in 2015
Great info video; I have a '15 bought new and have been very satisfied, like you. I did have transmission cooler line corrode to failure on steel tubing bend near connection with cooler at front of vehicle. Like you said, you really have to be pro-active to keep rust at bay over the long term in the salt use areas, especially underbody components made of steel. Just purchased a product called Fluid Film to treat the frame and assorted parts, and hopefully get another ten years out of what is now $50K plus truck.
Here's my tip for all. My pap worked for Ford in Ohio next to lake Erie. A coworker drive a late 40s sedan in mid 60s. Pap asked him how he kept it from rusting out. Here's what he told pap and pap showed my dad and dad showed me. Use 1 quart of any oil new or used, 1 qt new or used trans fluid, 1 tube or tub of any grease, 2 wax rings for a toilet seal, bees wax etc. Put all in a old pot, heat and mix. Spray, brush etc as undercoating. It will NOT wash off, wear off, even with a steam jenny power washer and 3500 psi. We've used this on anything we wanted to keep from rusting, farm implements, tractors, logging machinery, semis, cars, trucks, etc.
With a cheap sprayer $50 Amazon, or make 1, u can save fluids from oil, trans fluid changes and protect urr ride for $10. If I don't have oils u can use mineral, baby oils etc. Even melted Vaseline works well. Most products u can buy have no petroleum in them. Just wax. And they cost a good bit.
Tape up door drains and let soak with mineral oil if u don't like smell of trans fluid and let sit for a day then drain and save for next time. Take out body plugs and use a 360 spray wand, some guns come with them. Usually this will last 4 years or so at least b4 a new coat is required IF u do alot of off road, mudding etc. Even then it will just smear, not come off. This has been used since the mid 60s and does work. I was quoted $600 to get done by a company I won't mention that is known for this service. That's insane.
For existing rust use food grade 60% or higher phosphoric acid. What u buy from big box places is at most 30% if that. This will convert rust and kill it. Best case is using Master Coat after killing rust. It was made for infrastructure to keep from rusting. Lasts 20 years min. If u want to save urr ride it's worth it. Done this to my Town car with 100k. Plan to keep forever. Happy motoring.
Great read! Helpful insight, thank you
@@highostablegarage I get tired of seeing good ppl pay hundreds and hundreds of dollars on these wax products that don't last, don't do what they claim in the long run. I know that if it was made like this they'd not make $. I get it, but why spend all that time n $ for short term results? That adds up year after year. I enjoy helping others protect and keep their favorite autos on the road and rust free. I've had to tell so many that their favorite autos was unsafe and I can't put a sticker on it and it'd cost so much to report it they're better off just scraping it. Most ppl never see underside of their car like I do daily. Autos today are just not as good as they could be, or was. Autos don't have the style, character that the older models do. I'm happy to help when I can.
Do you apply that homemade coating to all parts underneath vehicle, all nuts bolts rubber etc? If so, does it remove easy when you need to change any suspension parts etc or how does it all work? I have tried fluid film but that junk washes off too darn easily... Thank you! JAY from the far west midWest
I'm very intrigued - does this concoction attract and retain dust like an oiled surface will?
Does it make future repairs messy and bolts tough to remove?
@efil4kizum I think Fluid Film added to that greasy concoction would stay on the metal. The wax makes it thick. It's almost like cosmoline. I have wanted to experiment with greasy wax. I think it should have just enough wax that it cools not too sticky - or dust and road grit will make it pretty crusty
I’ve got a 2015 with 360kms mostly driven in winter with5 kids playing hockey. No corrosion on the body whatsoever and only have replaced the alternator 3 years ago snd ball joints last year.
Every season, I coat the undercarriage of my 2018 F150 with LPS 3, using my pneumatic rustproofing gun. Still looks like new!
You have a link to what you use or a how to video?
I have the same truck here in the Ottawa valley. I had it undercoated when I bought it new, plus I put plastic rear wheel well inserts in it.
Will get another undercoating this year.
Retired and only putting on 5K/year… gonna have this puppy til I die!
That was a good shot of the engine, you can really see the mileage on it but the body and frame are holding up very well for the location.... And believe me I know the location 😂🤦
Haha yeah it’s pretty rough round here xD
That makes no sense. The engine could look just as bad driving 5 miles a day and it is more time and the environment rather than mileage that causes the corrosion in the engine bay. Those metal parts will start looking like that on any vehicle that just sits outside, not even driven at all.
2015, 105000 miles. No issues with the body or powertrain at all. The painted steel front bumper needed a repaint last summer, no big deal. And the tailgate release handle started to stick due to corrosion on the pivot pins. My previous two trucks a 1994 and 2006 F-150 didn't make it to 5 years old before needing paint work on the body.
You should get that frame rust proofed with something like NH Undercoating. My 98 F150 frame was gone in 16 years..........
Carolina boy here , I traded my 2015 f150 six months ago , still looked new inside outside and underneath.
Dang I loved that truck ! But I’m getting old, and it was time .
My 2016 175k miles looks like a new truck underneath SE Michigan. It's mind blowing. Chevy and Dodge trucks this old are starting to get bed wheel well rot already here.
I bought a 2001 Silverado (Minnesota) in 2009 that was already rusty as heck but luckily, mechanically good. Already the clean Silverado Classics are getting expensive as so many are in junkyards. Surprised no comments here about how much weight aluminum saves.
I live in Michigan, n there's no were worse with the roads!! I'm sure most will agree. I bought a 1st year 2015 f150 with the 1st year 2.7 ecoboost n have 246,000 miles on it!! So far so go. Still running at 18.7 on original turbos. Down about 1.7psi from new , but it's a ok . I do all my own wrenching on it, so I believe that helps , also I've followed everyone of the maintenance schedules in the owners manual too. It's a bit much , but results speak for themselves.
Way too close to Chicago here.. bought my wife a '16 explorer specifically for the aluminum body.
Very little corrosion so far. The only oxidation issues are from where the rock chips are on the front
They seem to be a huge game changer in the rust belt for that main reason, I’m not sure what kind of alloy they used to make the panels but it doesn’t seem to corrode
Only the hood is aluminum on the explorer. The rest is still steel. I have a few 2016-2020 explorers, and they're all the same. And the hood paint prep from the factory is crap; they all bubble from corrosion in less 100k miles in the northeast
The Explorer is steel.
I live in Minnesota and I'm a Chevy man through and through, but these aluminum Fords are getting more and more tempting every winter. I recently bought a clean southern 2018 Silverado and have Fluid Filmed the entire truck, wash it almost every other day in the winter, and correct every paint chip that might cause rust but I know I can only prevent it for so long. I'm already seeing my gen of trucks with blown out bed sides and rockers and its disheartening knowing I spent lots of money on a truck that I know will suffer the same rusty fate no matter how diligent I am with preventing it
Late 1980’s union guy. Love the look!
Truck or attire?
Haha thank you 😂
The F150’s body handles the beach very well we use them in our beach patrol.
I expected a lot more corrosion, and galvanic corrosion.
So did I, it was quite surprising
Apparently it is a non issue with corrosion
I have basically that truck. 2015 XLT Ecoboost 3.5. Looks great, works great, do the undercoating and I hope to run it for another bunch of years. Live in NB as well, but if you look after it, it will look after you. Throttle body sensor has been my only complaint. Damn thing failed twice and once in a dangerous situation. Hoping that does not happen again
Thats a MacPhee Ford truck from right here in Halifax Dartmouth NS! I drive a 19' F150, its a waste of time and $ to undercoat an aluminum vehicle other than THE STEEL FRAME AND COMPONENTS. Great video
You are correct, I had the frame sprayed inside and outside , differential, brake lines, any steel part woolwaxed . Didn’t bother with any of the aluminum floor pan or bed. It all still looks as new after6 yrs the stuff really works
I grew up in Idaho, with no salt on the roads. I moved to Iowa for a few years and was amazed at the salt damage! I also served in the US Navy as an aviation structural tech and am quite familiar with aluminum corrosion. When steel meets aluminum, and corrosion occurs, it is referred to as "galvanic" corrosion. I spent a lot of time repairing F-14 Tomcat panels, which are made of aluminum skins with aluminum honeycomb foil sandwiched between. The only way this video could have been better, was to have a previous generation F-150 present with typical corrosion to compare it to. But, great presentation and cadence.
One of the main reasons I bought my 17 F150 5.0 Super Crew was due to Connecticut winter resilience with the aluminum body. As for the frame, I apply Fluid Film inside and out prior to each winter season here in CT. The Fluid Film, as you probably know, will creep back over any rock salt or other abrasions that may occur from road debris giving you incredible frame protection. Great Video.. Thank you.
Blaster Metal Shield is also a great great product for the frames. NOT undercoating (terrible choice/rusts worse even)Apply the Blaster Shield and it creeps into crevices.
@@71boss39 that blaster shield is a fantastic product, it even says it lasts for at least 2 yrs, even on the inner fender wells where it’s abraded the quickest
Is Fluid Film essentially like sticky WD-40? I’ve never heard of it.
@@mattskustomkreations Yes, since the WD in WD-40 stands for water displacement, you can look at fluid film and Blaster surface shield in the same way as they also displace moisture but like you said, because they are stickier they have the benefit of adhering to the metal better than WD-40.
@@techsing3037 ok, thx!
Aluminum does oxidize over time and is a good idea to treat it but yours looks great! I would still treat regardless
I have a 2007 F150, original Ontario truck that was Krowned every fall by the original owner and myself, its a rust free creampuff. Undercoating does work. Sitting at a measly 115,000km on the 4.2L/5 speed combo. Other than the limitations of being 2WD only, it has served me very well and is an excellent truck for what I use it for. It now lives with me in Alberta and sleeps in a heated garage.
Krown Rust control, reguardless ❤❤. Definitely makes a difference on the frame/under carriage area.
I'm glad my 2001 still looks okay 😂 not as bad rust here in Virginia 👍
I would say haha 😂 you guys are lucky that way
My 2015 F150 in Michigan looks brand new. 105k Every fall I spray the underside frame with oil before winter.
This issue has been on my mind since I bought my truck new back in 2019. Had it undercoated. Live in the salty snowy mid west where rusty fenders, rocker panels etc have always been an issue.
You've given me some peace of mind with this vid.
Thanks for it.
subed your chanel.
I've got a 2017 F-150 XLT 5.0 with 330,000 km / 205,000 miles. *Zero* corrosion anywhere, including the undercarriage: frame, leaf springs, rear axle. Although the snow plows apply beach sand here, so that likely helps. Unfortunately, much of the paint has been "sand-blasted" off of the inside of the rear wheel wells from the coarse road sand.
You need to start to use cosmoline and fluid film where is not paint. Or paint it over again.
im in newfoundland. which is even worse than nova scotia for rust. i have yet to see one of these aluminum fords with any body corrosion at all. at same time ive seen same year rams with absolutely no rocker panels left and chevs with wheel wells rusted. the fords are holding up by far the best. no comparison at all.
My 2016 Super Crew 6.5' box is even the same color as this truck. I love having the longer wheelbase until I park in a small parking lot. 🙂 I don't have near the miles but I have used a few cans of Fluid Film on the frame and whatever steel I can find and spray it in any opening I can and have been pleasantly surprised every fall when I apply more. My truck has had its own issues for sure but rust and corrosion hasn't been one.
Been running a 2015 f150 in Ontario Canada since new.
Like you have said, the body panels all still look new.
The only place I noted any corrosion was the drivers door on the lower lip seam and even then it is just a small bubble under the paint.
My frame is about as bad as yours, I power wash it all the time to keep mud and salt out of it.
The rear bumper is also getting some rust and I will probably replace that next year as it is also steel.
What has rotted right through is all the smaller steel parts.
Muffler from the cats back had to be replaced.
Steel transmission cooler lines had to be replaced.
Shocks and struts had to be replaced.
Wheel bearings all the way around replaced.
belt tensioners for accessories replaced.
And don't get me started on the 4X4 hub actuators, if that goes again I am getting the delete kit.
This year replacing all the old incandescent lights with new LED housings just for fun.
All in all its is an immortal truck accept for the smaller steel parts which you have to keep on top of regularly.
Edit: And just replace all the door latches, the old ones were prone to freezing up so I got the updated latches that solves the issue.
Good to know, thanks for sharing 👌
Look into products like Boeshield, LPS 3, 3M Rust Fighter One, Blaster Surface Shield, or even WD-40 for those areas you mentioned. Each one is a little different but all provide some level of lubricity and protection from corrosion with easy spray application from an aerosol can.
I live in Idaho where we don’t use Road salt and my 2014 f150 came from Alberta. There’s barely any rust but I do see some rust forming on the cab corners. I know Alberta doesn’t use a lot of salt but I feel like some collected there.
When Aluminum oxidizes it has to keep flaking off, like raw aluminum on a big rig running board. I've seen that flake off and degrade, but the paint helps a lot too.
Apparently it’s not happening on these trucks after 9 yrs…even where the paint has chipped off due to rocks
Our 2015 F150 has no corrosion in Michigan with 115,000 miles.
Talking about my 2009 F150, that is a diferent story. I am wrapping the thing in plastic pieces to hide the rust holes. But that is why I paid only $1700 for it ( I did have to figure out why the cam timing kept going wrong. It was the Cam position sensor plug.).
I've got a 2013 f1titty platinum 3.5 ecoboost no rust all original with 300 thousand miles..Michigan truck..still on the road to this day..runs like brand new
Where I work in the winter, we have a 2016 F-150 3.5EB as a shovel-crew truck. We load bins of salt into the beds of these trucks all of the time. Spills and freshly salted parking lots be damned, there is no body rust. I haven't looked underneath, though. 200,000 km and tons of idle hours, too. No problems!
I had a 2014 and drove it 250,000 mi in northern mn. The salt capitol. No rust. I now have a 2021 with 80,000 mi, it's aluminum body doesn't rust. It's all about maintaining the vehicle. Wash underneath as well as the outside. Great truck. ..
@@PaulPaulisich Good news! I just bought a 2024 with a 2.7L. XL Extended Cab 4x4 2 weeks ago!.
I’ve got a 2017 superduty and I’ve kept it undercoated. 7 hard Maine winters and it still looks great!
My 2012 (pre aluminum) is rotting out, it’s awful
I live in Michigan . My truck is a 2015 , and not one spot of corrosion anywhere. So glad I bought it!
My 2011 Ford F150 with a 5.0L Coyote V8 in it is the last generation of the steel body, while the aluminum body of the 2015 and newer F150s don't rust but if they get dented then you either have to replace the whole panel or just live with the dent because you can't fix dents easily on the aluminum body at all like you could on a steel body.
They don’t easily. Parking lot damage is nonexistent.
@@user-roadwander Howcome? What makes em so tuff?
The mail trucks are aluminum and hold up very well. I expect my 21 to do at least as well.
wow thats impressive
So happy to see this, my 2010 rotted out, just replaced with a used 2020 fleet truck from Sarnia...only 50k but it looks great and want to keep it that way
Fluid film your rides guys!!
100% agree
I use LPS-3. I saw a friend's car he did with Fluid Film, the stuff stays drippy like he sprayed used motor oil on it. I didn't care for that. I also use CRC Marine Corrosion Inhibitor for small spot application because it only comes in aerosol cans, no bulk available like LPS-3. Before applying any of that I also put the bare frame on a rotisserie and coated it with something much tougher than anything you get from OEM, but that's just me, LoL.
@@onemoremisfit yep. I use all three of those. I use the FluidFilm inside the rocker panels and other areas where there are pinch welds. It creeps into these areas well. For every place else i also use the LPS3 (its basically a modern-day cosmoline). Dries much more firm and lasts longer than FF.
@@John_Redcorn_ For an overall undercoat the LPS-3 is tough to beat. It does not wash off. Solvent removes it easily but my heated pressure washer at moderate temp (about 120 F) does not remove it. I'm sure it would strip it if I turned the heat up to steam and put the gun close to the work, but that will strip paint too, lol.
I live on a gravel road that coats my undercarriage with corrosive caked on mud. Each spring I use the pressure washer to clean away the salty mud that winter built up on it, and I'll let it dry for a day or two. When I feel around under there I find last year's coat of LPS-3 is still on there after pressure washing all the mud off. Then I'll freshen it up with another quick coat. The LPS-3 costs double what FF costs but is superior and worth it in my opinion.
Great idea 👍
As a business owner with a fleet of over 50 mixed brand half ton trucks, I can tell you that the aluminum body fords still look like new where the gm trucks of the same year you can literally look through the rust holes in the body
I have a 2018 almost the same truck same color except mines a Lariat and the 3.5 twin turbo with 125 on the clock great on gas I Heat hydraulic fluid up and spray the steel parts then use undercoating a few days later my last truck was a 2011 it rotted out what seems like overnight rockers the box was about to fall off it was bad I also live 700 feet from the Bay of Fundy Nova Scotia this new truck Aluminum panels are holding up great
I think the aluminum trucks have a fighting chance here which is a great chance of pace
I live in Minnesota. I hope my 23 Maverick holds up this well years down the road
No way maverick will. Not aluminum
Pretty interesting video
Thank you 👌
2017 f450 here with 450,000 kms work truck, has seen lots of salt but I take care of it, I keep it clean, lots of folks think it’s brand new when they see it.
WHOA! WHOA !WHOA!!!! You PAUSED Faith Hill?!!!!
In 2020 I bought a new F150 Super Crew Cab 4X4. Two things that I did real quick was to under coat everything. Then I bought some wheel well liners to protect the real wheel wells and frame. Those things are awesome and well worth the cost! I would recommend that anybody that plans on keeping their truck invest in a pair. Oh a 3rd thing that I did was on the front inner fender wheel wells, that gap between the wheel well and upper control arm. I spent some time making a flap to cover that gap. It does wonders in keeping the crap , road salt and corrosion off from the exhaust manifolds and turbos. At one time manufactures did stuff like that , but not any more. Then of course I always have to add window vent visors , a hood protector and mud flaps. I went with Ford because I got sick and tired of trying to stay ahead of body rust on my Sierra. OH plus I gained about 10 mpg with the 2.7L verses the 5.3L that was in my Sierra. I am still loving my Ford!
I have a 2010 Ford Fusion. The radiator rusted out. The transmission cooling lines rusted out. The sub frame rusted out. The entire gas tank rusted out. The rocker panels are almost gone from rust. The factory calipers seized from rust.The entire body has rust spots. All this before 110,000 miles. The only good thing, it has a Mazda engine. I've kept all receipts.
It IS a Mazda.
@@jamesbosworth4191 With Ford badges and Ford assembly. This car is pure garbage and disintegrates faster than an ice cube on hot pavement.
@@m.thomas6222 Assembly is not the same as "Wholly manufactured". That car is a Mazda design. Putting Ford badges on it doesn't change that fact. Remember how Japanese cars were total rust buckets until the mid 80s?
@@jamesbosworth4191Japanese cars were (past tense) a concern. North America sold Japan garbage metal. Japanese cars were also less money. I've had 4 Fords. Each one disintegrated by rust. My next car will be a used Lexus. It will still be more reliable than a new Ford. The fusion was made in Mexico Under licence to ford.
@@m.thomas6222 It is still a disguised Mazda.
Great review ! I have a 2002 4x4 F 250 I inherited. The owner just had new bed, front fenders, doors and a nice paint job. Trouble was the frame was neglected its entire life. So after a weld job on front right frame it otherwise was soild enough. Heres my under rust resistant spray. A pressure washer cleaning. Completely dry it out. The liquid elixir. A spray bottle from Lucas Slick mist or whatever. Load itbup a penetrol, kerosene, 90w oil and black Rustoleum oil based paint. You will need to reload multiple times. Take 3 aspirin. Put on crap clothes with a Hoodia. Glasses. A covid mask. Find a gravel driveway. Make a tarp with cushion to scoot around on and a flashlight. Then go for it. Not just once but three times after to get what you miss. Ive done this to my four vehicles and do it every year. Helps if your compulsive obsessive. Once you've done it good once, those next year reapplications are easier. Sry for the rant but your aluminum body review was inspirational. 👏
That truck probably made out beer cans
Ive just bought a 2017 F250 with 160 km on it. It is my third super duty truck. i cant believe how clean it is. The aluminium was a very good decision for truck here in Quebec canada where salt is all over the road in the winter time.
This is the reason my next pickup will be a Ford.
I have a 2016 5.0. 190,000mi. Been a great truck with regular maintenance. I have small paint spots flaking at the edges above the windshield, passenger side roof crease above the door, and tailgate where the top plastic rail meets the aluminum. It’s very minimal. I attribute it to being parked in the sun all day while I’m at work.
255k? For an OBS, that would be just broken in...
I’d much rather be enjoying the power and comfort of a newer truck over an obs any day! They are over rated unless your on a farm. And the feeling of falling off the seat in the obs is awesome too😂
@@anthonys7534 Just say that mine is a pretty solid shitbox. But unlike a new truck, I get 26mpg. It's more comfortable to me than most new trucks, and it was paid off twenty years ago. It definitely has drawbacks though.
I work at a dealership in western NY. The bodies seem to be holding up okay, but other things like transmission cooler lines have been rotting out faster than you'd expect. From what I see of the truck here, it looks much better than what we typically see in the shop.
We also have replaced quite a few aluminum hoods for Explorers, too.