It's not the dpf, the dpf is at the end of the chain. Cleaning the dpf will help but it hasn't fixed your problem. The dpf cleaning people are not telling you the truth, if the dpf needs to be cleaned you can guarantee that the inlet manifold, EGR and all other interconnected parts need to be decarboned. Yes, cleaning the dpf helps but if you do not clean the inlet manifold etc you will be down on power and fuel efficiency and over time the PCM will start throwing other fault codes. Mazda have recently issued a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) that says the 2.2 skyactive diesel engine MUST be decarboned every 60k kms. Whilst you may get fault codes, its not until the check engine light goes on that the ECU activates limp mode. The first time you checked your MAP sensor, if it was carboned up then everything else is carboned up, GUARANTEED!!!! Most SCBS faults come because of PCM faults (caused by carbon issues) or a faulty brake booster. Check your brake booster values. Check your injector washers and injector values. Anything faulty with the injectors leads to serious oil sludge build up inside the camshaft cover. Update your exhaust pressure sensor. Check the exhaust pressure extension pipe (try to push air thru it), if you can't push air it is blocked with carbon. Check the exhaust cam shaft (either by removing the camshaft cover or with a scope thru the injector ports and looking at how the exhaust valves open compared to the inlet valves), a very high percentage of these engines suffer from worn lobes on the exhaust cam shaft. If your exhaust cam shaft is worn, check the exhaust valves to make sure carbon hasn't got into the valve guides causing the valves to stick (with the exhaust camshaft off you tap the head of the exhaust valves with a wooden / rubber hammer. If the valves stick they need to be pulled apart and cleaned). Check your oil pressure at idle, if it is low (under 150) then most likely you have a clogged oil pick up filter. Not fixing this leads to brake booster, turbo and exhaust camshaft failure. Rayco have recently released an updated oil filter, use this to stop the fragments of metal from the exhaust camshaft circulating in the oil and causing later on serious issues. Regular oil changes aren't a guaranteed fix, I've seen worn exhaust cams on engines with only 40k kms on them and the oil serviced every 5k kms from new. From 2014 to 2016 ish Mazda had batches of bad cams, they issued a TSB about the issue. Bad cams, poor maintenance and poor engine design makes these engines a crap shoot. Some are good but many are disasters just waiting to happen. And cleaning the dpf yourself isn't recommended. The chemicals in the solutions used damage the rare metals in the catalytic convertor. The dpf can be removed with the engine still in the car, this applies to both FWD and AWD models.
absolutely agree on your comments, I have very similar experiences with everything you just said...so those dpf people are probably not the sharpest pencils in the pencilcase :) as one of the most important things is to keep healthy air intake and also healthy injectors plus very frequent oil changes-- I do mine aftre cca 6000 km too. There is also one fix how to prevent carbon build up in the air intake - to disable both EGRs- there is one smart guy in Czech Republic who did this mod together with many other things like start stop system off, and also slight ecu tweak to add more BHP....but under the condition that engine is clean from the carbon....however there is one thing, which I am not sure if I agree with ---claening a dpf with special chemicals- i.e BG or Protec products, which has delivered good results without damaging DPF..I am going to do that next week at one local garage
@@lubosblaho dpf cleaning is contentious issue. Companies with on and off car products claim they do no damage, companies with commercial cleaners (like ultrasonic baths or pressure cleaners) claim only they can clean dpf's properly and have research that proves this. Cost and risk are what you have to consider.
@caileme Really good points. You must be from the automotive service side?! based on your comprehensive comments. The exhaust pressure sensor upgrade helps out, however the carbon build up is a factor. I had my DPF done at a verified diesel shop and the results were remarkable. Yes, the other de-carbon is on my list, but not right now. The fuel injector washers change is also important. I inspect for leaks or moisture around the injectors and keep an eye on my oil levels and smell for diesel. So far so good. Another thing I do is active motor flush every oil change (My choice, I do this with all my cars.). That will lessen all that sludge and reduce possible problems. One more thing, (not verified) is that Mazda's 2.2 liter diesel internals quality fluctuated in different parts of the world, not sure if this is true or not.
@cronk216 Great video, thanks for sharing your knowledge. I replaced my exhaust pressure sensor with your previous video. I would be very interested to find out what is the distance since last dpf regeneration on your car. Mine is a 2016 mazda 6 2.2D skyactive and is regenerating roughly every 60 miles. I got the car decarboned and while it improved fuel consumption, it didn't fix the constant dpf regens. I wonder did the dpf cleaning help increase the distance between regens?
Hi, the re-generation is very random, I get it about 2-3 times on a tankful of diesel. I flip between display of average mpg and real-time consumption, once you see higher numbers the re-gen is on. I have noticed that if you use the manual option with the automatic transmission, you can reduce the time of the re-gen. Keeping the RPMs higher with shifts and on the highway helps. Brisk acceleration thru the gears with higher revs helps too. (Italian tuning) Also, when driving in the city with constant stops etc. I use the manual option. Otherwise, automatic mode with transmission.
Without more info, most likely. DPF in these cars controls so much. However, MAP and MAF sensor cleaning and if necessary, Intercooler cleaning/replace. Those are the 4 main points, all diesels have carbon issues, but these engines if not serviced well will build up stuff real quick. If you can, DPF delete helps out a lot.
Le auto stanno diventando sempre più complesse, compresa Mazda. Per ripararle ci vogliono un mucchio di quattrini e a volte, nemmeno casa madre ci riesce.
Thanks for your comments. Do you mean Mazda is always a DPF problem? Glad you are getting on with your own DPF cleaning. Could you share how you do that?
A worn exhaust camshaft can lead to the dpf becoming blocked as well. thank you for your video on this subject.
Thank you sir. God bless you for sharing.
It's not the dpf, the dpf is at the end of the chain. Cleaning the dpf will help but it hasn't fixed your problem. The dpf cleaning people are not telling you the truth, if the dpf needs to be cleaned you can guarantee that the inlet manifold, EGR and all other interconnected parts need to be decarboned. Yes, cleaning the dpf helps but if you do not clean the inlet manifold etc you will be down on power and fuel efficiency and over time the PCM will start throwing other fault codes. Mazda have recently issued a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) that says the 2.2 skyactive diesel engine MUST be decarboned every 60k kms.
Whilst you may get fault codes, its not until the check engine light goes on that the ECU activates limp mode.
The first time you checked your MAP sensor, if it was carboned up then everything else is carboned up, GUARANTEED!!!!
Most SCBS faults come because of PCM faults (caused by carbon issues) or a faulty brake booster. Check your brake booster values.
Check your injector washers and injector values. Anything faulty with the injectors leads to serious oil sludge build up inside the camshaft cover.
Update your exhaust pressure sensor. Check the exhaust pressure extension pipe (try to push air thru it), if you can't push air it is blocked with carbon.
Check the exhaust cam shaft (either by removing the camshaft cover or with a scope thru the injector ports and looking at how the exhaust valves open compared to the inlet valves), a very high percentage of these engines suffer from worn lobes on the exhaust cam shaft. If your exhaust cam shaft is worn, check the exhaust valves to make sure carbon hasn't got into the valve guides causing the valves to stick (with the exhaust camshaft off you tap the head of the exhaust valves with a wooden / rubber hammer. If the valves stick they need to be pulled apart and cleaned).
Check your oil pressure at idle, if it is low (under 150) then most likely you have a clogged oil pick up filter. Not fixing this leads to brake booster, turbo and exhaust camshaft failure.
Rayco have recently released an updated oil filter, use this to stop the fragments of metal from the exhaust camshaft circulating in the oil and causing later on serious issues.
Regular oil changes aren't a guaranteed fix, I've seen worn exhaust cams on engines with only 40k kms on them and the oil serviced every 5k kms from new. From 2014 to 2016 ish Mazda had batches of bad cams, they issued a TSB about the issue. Bad cams, poor maintenance and poor engine design makes these engines a crap shoot. Some are good but many are disasters just waiting to happen.
And cleaning the dpf yourself isn't recommended. The chemicals in the solutions used damage the rare metals in the catalytic convertor. The dpf can be removed with the engine still in the car, this applies to both FWD and AWD models.
absolutely agree on your comments, I have very similar experiences with everything you just said...so those dpf people are probably not the sharpest pencils in the pencilcase :) as one of the most important things is to keep healthy air intake and also healthy injectors plus very frequent oil changes-- I do mine aftre cca 6000 km too. There is also one fix how to prevent carbon build up in the air intake - to disable both EGRs- there is one smart guy in Czech Republic who did this mod together with many other things like start stop system off, and also slight ecu tweak to add more BHP....but under the condition that engine is clean from the carbon....however there is one thing, which I am not sure if I agree with ---claening a dpf with special chemicals- i.e BG or Protec products, which has delivered good results without damaging DPF..I am going to do that next week at one local garage
@@lubosblaho dpf cleaning is contentious issue. Companies with on and off car products claim they do no damage, companies with commercial cleaners (like ultrasonic baths or pressure cleaners) claim only they can clean dpf's properly and have research that proves this. Cost and risk are what you have to consider.
@caileme Really good points. You must be from the automotive service side?! based on your comprehensive comments. The exhaust pressure sensor upgrade helps out, however the carbon build up is a factor. I had my DPF done at a verified diesel shop and the results were remarkable. Yes, the other de-carbon is on my list, but not right now. The fuel injector washers change is also important. I inspect for leaks or moisture around the injectors and keep an eye on my oil levels and smell for diesel. So far so good. Another thing I do is active motor flush every oil change (My choice, I do this with all my cars.). That will lessen all that sludge and reduce possible problems. One more thing, (not verified) is that Mazda's 2.2 liter diesel internals quality fluctuated in different parts of the world, not sure if this is true or not.
Muchas gracias por la información. Yo tengo el mismo motor en mi Mazda 6. Un dolor de cabeza .👌
@cronk216 Great video, thanks for sharing your knowledge. I replaced my exhaust pressure sensor with your previous video.
I would be very interested to find out what is the distance since last dpf regeneration on your car. Mine is a 2016 mazda 6 2.2D skyactive and is regenerating roughly every 60 miles. I got the car decarboned and while it improved fuel consumption, it didn't fix the constant dpf regens. I wonder did the dpf cleaning help increase the distance between regens?
Hi, the re-generation is very random, I get it about 2-3 times on a tankful of diesel. I flip between display of average mpg and real-time consumption, once you see higher numbers the re-gen is on. I have noticed that if you use the manual option with the automatic transmission, you can reduce the time of the re-gen. Keeping the RPMs higher with shifts and on the highway helps. Brisk acceleration thru the gears with higher revs helps too. (Italian tuning) Also, when driving in the city with constant stops etc. I use the manual option. Otherwise, automatic mode with transmission.
Hey mate any chance you could do a termostat video or at least how to safely get to the housing of the termostat?
welcome back
I have one dat not starting
Thanks.
I guess I have same issues with cx-5
Without more info, most likely. DPF in these cars controls so much. However, MAP and MAF sensor cleaning and if necessary, Intercooler cleaning/replace. Those are the 4 main points, all diesels have carbon issues, but these engines if not serviced well will build up stuff real quick. If you can, DPF delete helps out a lot.
Le auto stanno diventando sempre più complesse, compresa Mazda. Per ripararle ci vogliono un mucchio di quattrini e a volte, nemmeno casa madre ci riesce.
dpf delete end of story
Absolutely. Unfortunately, where I live the inspections check this and you get a hefty fine for dpf delete, so have to live with it.
Mazda is problem,always. I clean dpf on car, without remove. Succesfull
Thanks for your comments. Do you mean Mazda is always a DPF problem? Glad you are getting on with your own DPF cleaning. Could you share how you do that?
Please share how
please share as i have car in driveway and not driving it!