I love your advice and content. But can you please start to provide more content with 8 and 9 handed strategies, because most tournaments aren't six handed.
I find this way of teaching very effective for me. I find the charts overwhelming. It is impossible to memorize the charts and most training don't teach the "why" behind the charts in a manner that makes sense to me. This episode explained the logic behind the charts. This was helpful.
Yes the why is often missing so that the theory, the reason is omitted. Thus listening here is like listening to music without knowing how to play. The teaching doesn't have the equity "why" and the thought process that goes into arriving at the "why". Most instruction fails for that reason.
I agree. Jonathan’s way of explaining the theory and why it works is what makes him one of, if not the best coach on TH-cam. So many of his videos have been put in to practice and it just makes sense. I fully believe he’s the reason I’ve gone from a losing 1/2 player to a winning 2/5-5/10 player
I was a losing player until I followed you and I'm a winner now....actually doing really well 😎 small adjustments just and not tilting like the Titanic anymore lol
Watched your video on my way back to the Bay Area today. Entered the Run Good Bankroll builder for $135. I called a raise out of the BB with 96 spades heads up. Flop was 8 spades 65 diamonds. I check raise the flop and take it down!
Thank you for the videos Jonathan, making it to the money way more often after watching a bunch of ur vids. Yesterday made it fifth on pko tournament with field of 3k+ players.
Sir I love you❤. The content you are giving in free is such valuable content. And your explanation is understandable to me. Thanks alot kerp these videos coming. Much love❤
Love these, I'm playing much better since starting to watch. It would help if the chart had a key, I'm too much of a noob to know what the different colors mean.
I agree with you 1000% in a game full of donks you don't won't to raise draws no body is folding you want to keep as many folks in the pot as possible, when your straight comes in at least 3 donks are calling when you shove.
19:24 also, I am curious about the colors on the grid. I believe orange means raise, green means call but what does blue and gray mean? why is AA gray as is J7 offsuit?
I like the video. One question i had that i didnt see here. When you're on a draw and then you reraise the opponents 1.5 bet what do you do if they come back over the top of your raise? I know you said a lot of the time that you'll have go fold to their all in bet, but what if the reraise they make is not an all in? Are we jamming at that point, calling, or folding?
You fold to any large reraise. This is the entire point of the video. You raise with low equity hands (vs small bets), because you don't mind folding if you get reraised. With high equity hands you don't raise as much to avoid being reraised and forced to fold correctly.
@@PokerCoaching thank you for all the help. I had never played poker before a month ago, lost $200 within 5 minutes of sitting down for a cash game at my local casino. Then I bought and listened to your book strategies for beating small stakes poker and studied the preflop charts on your website. Which lead to me getting 5th place in a tournament at Caesar’s palace in Vegas last weekend. Now I need to figure out how to play when I miss the flop.
how are all these hands like 93 and 82o in there in the first place? That seems pretty wide defend. But I guess I am not as optimistic or good as the GTO pro.
Clarification please - preflop the suited combos on your range chart indicate any given suited combo. Confirm that your range chart for post-flop play indicates a suited combo as ONLY the suit with the draw on the board. All other hands eg. suited in hearts/clubs/diamonds on the first example with the spade draw, are now counted as 'offsuite.' Is this correct interpretation?
I play in a seriously soft 1$/2$ cash game here I definitely need to exploitatively under raise because I have no fold equity. Also I'm usually not heads up, I am in a lot of multiway pots. I think the strategy is pretty much to just play a tighter range across the board. Move many of my draws to my check calling range to realize equity, and try to pile it in when I have the goods. I think I am looking for it to be more complicated than that but its not. Sometimes I do feel like I am too nitty in this game but it seems like theappropriate exploit. I do think there is more opportunity to barrrel it off more especially since despite how wide villains are calling pre and post flop on the river, there is an opportunity to bluff hands since they are not arriving at the river balanced at all. I do have your book Jonathan on mastering small stakes. I am going through it a second time right now. Are there hand breakdowns of you playing in any truly wild cash games? Like where standard raise is 8-10x and are usually 3-5 handed to every flop?
You’re exactly right, just tighten up like crazy and fast play nutted hands since you’re against a lot of opponents, all who have a little bit of equity and make your hand more vulnerable
You're playing it just right. Be prepared to rebuy, and play a nutted range to exploit people who call too much. There are situations to bluff, they're just very player dependent. Build an image first as tight, then bet big in spots when scary cards come in that will push off even the biggest calling stations. Used to play in a game like that, and once I adjusted it was easy pickings. Not necessarily the most interesting poker, but profitable nonetheless...
What’s the adjustment if your playing a nit who only C-bets if they connected with the board? If they still bet small are you still supposed to check raise with these hands?
Think of equity as real estate. The ranges of the players are the land up for grabs. If someone under the gun(first to act) raises, their range says they are raising something like pocket aces, kings, queens Ace king, etc. They are representing something good. Now, let's say you have a J7 suited. The flop comes A J 2. You have a pair of Jacks. This would beat cards in their range they would have raised with like TT, QT, KT. They have you beat with AA, AK, AQ, etc. If the opponent has 10 hands they would raise with, and you beat 5 of them on the flop, then you're 50/50 equity. If you beat 4 out of 10 hands in their raise range, you have 40% equity. Also, after the flop hits, you take the hands of theirs that you don't beat and calculate the outs vs your outs to beat those hands to know if you should continue the hand. Basically, the process on the flop is... 1. If there are 10 pieces of real estate in the opponent range(hand they would raise with) how many do you beat right now? 2. Calculate outs of their possible hands left in their range vs your hand outs. 3. Calculate pot odds. 4. Pot odds vs. Your outs. 5. If you have better out odds(3 to 1) vs pot odds(5 to 1) then you should stay in. If you have bad odds(1 to 5) vs pot odds( 3 to 1) then you should check/fold.
In my experience, playing your possible range at a 1/2 table is how you lose all your money to bottom pair. Too many donks. Unless the game is filled with regs, I’m playing 1/2 extremely tight and going huge when I have a made hand.
That all depends on: your opponent, relative stack depths, and board texture. Try to study the solvers tendencies on specific board textures by grouping board textures and observing each positions bet sizing relative to the situation at hand
Raise a straight draw from OOP...okay I raised... Now it is my turn to act, the turn didn't help, and I have 16% chance of hitting my straight on the river. Would you like me to continue the story?
The problem is GTO is based on the computer playing more hands than a human could in a lifetime Bet if your hand is in top 33% of villains range for his position might be more practical
Agreed. It's based on millions of hands, but in a tournament you aren't going to see millions. The numbers are not going to even out in the long run because the sample size isn't large enough. In tournaments, there will be huge variance to GTO numbers based on millions of hands. I'd like to see GTO strategy based on 1000 hands or 5000 hands. GTO seems like it's more for cash games where the cards run forever. Tournaments have a final hand. The next tournament is it's own thing. Can't mix two tournaments statistics together and get a good tournament strategy. It doesn't represent the small card sample size.
He is saying unless you think your opponent has AQ then 7 2 (two pair) on that board is the hypothetical nuts and should be played aggressively. He's not telling you 72o is a great hand in general
@@rickyfiorentina there are not two pair for you on a flop of AQ7 when you have 72o (however the F you got there in the first place... Because solver, I guess)
@@TomRauhe should we trust the guy with 2 WPT titles and 7+ million in earnings or Mr. Tom Rauhe, who probably is a losing player at his local 2/5 table? I’ll go with the poker pro thanks
For your example, you say "you will raise 22% of the time". Ok fine. But how does it unfold at tables ? So I have to not raise 78 times in a row, and then 22 times in a row I will raise ? How to apply that correctly ? Should we consider wind direction ? Air pressure ? Temperature ? I'm joking of course, but this is to say that it's pretty difficult to use this rule accordingly IMO. thanks anyway for the great content! 👍
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What is YOUR favorite tip from this video? 😄
Do your best to not get jammed on with high equity draws is my favorite tip. Thanks for the tips!!!
I love your advice and content. But can you please start to provide more content with 8 and 9 handed strategies, because most tournaments aren't six handed.
I find this way of teaching very effective for me. I find the charts overwhelming. It is impossible to memorize the charts and most training don't teach the "why" behind the charts in a manner that makes sense to me. This episode explained the logic behind the charts. This was helpful.
Awesome! I'm glad to hear it!
Yes the why is often missing so that the theory, the reason is omitted. Thus listening here is like listening to music without knowing how to play. The teaching doesn't have the equity "why" and the thought process that goes into arriving at the "why". Most instruction fails for that reason.
Love these types of videos
I agree. Jonathan’s way of explaining the theory and why it works is what makes him one of, if not the best coach on TH-cam. So many of his videos have been put in to practice and it just makes sense.
I fully believe he’s the reason I’ve gone from a losing 1/2 player to a winning 2/5-5/10 player
I was a losing player until I followed you and I'm a winner now....actually doing really well 😎 small adjustments just and not tilting like the Titanic anymore lol
Awesome!
Watched your video on my way back to the Bay Area today. Entered the Run Good Bankroll builder for $135. I called a raise out of the BB with 96 spades heads up. Flop was 8 spades 65 diamonds. I check raise the flop and take it down!
Thank you for the videos Jonathan, making it to the money way more often after watching a bunch of ur vids. Yesterday made it fifth on pko tournament with field of 3k+ players.
I shall be adopting this in my home game in a few weeks 💪🏻
Another Great Video. Will be watching this one again.
Alweays love your content! Thank you for sharing i will be happy to play my next turnaments this week. Cheers Dario
Glad you like them!
Sir I love you❤. The content you are giving in free is such valuable content. And your explanation is understandable to me. Thanks alot kerp these videos coming. Much love❤
Thanks a ton
@@PokerCoaching ❤❤😊😊
Love these, I'm playing much better since starting to watch. It would help if the chart had a key, I'm too much of a noob to know what the different colors mean.
I agree with you 1000% in a game full of donks you don't won't to raise draws no body is folding you want to keep as many folks in the pot as possible, when your straight comes in at least 3 donks are calling when you shove.
19:24 also, I am curious about the colors on the grid. I believe orange means raise, green means call but what does blue and gray mean? why is AA gray as is J7 offsuit?
this is gold!!
Thanks!
I like the video. One question i had that i didnt see here. When you're on a draw and then you reraise the opponents 1.5 bet what do you do if they come back over the top of your raise? I know you said a lot of the time that you'll have go fold to their all in bet, but what if the reraise they make is not an all in? Are we jamming at that point, calling, or folding?
You fold to any large reraise. This is the entire point of the video. You raise with low equity hands (vs small bets), because you don't mind folding if you get reraised. With high equity hands you don't raise as much to avoid being reraised and forced to fold correctly.
New to the channel, where do we access these charts? I’ve use the preflop charts but don’t know where these post flop charts are
The postflop charts come from a GTO solver.
@@PokerCoaching thank you for all the help. I had never played poker before a month ago, lost $200 within 5 minutes of sitting down for a cash game at my local casino. Then I bought and listened to your book strategies for beating small stakes poker and studied the preflop charts on your website. Which lead to me getting 5th place in a tournament at Caesar’s palace in Vegas last weekend. Now I need to figure out how to play when I miss the flop.
Do you ever call an all in after the flop with the nut flush draw (4 to a flush)?
Are these scenarios heads up or multi way ?
how are all these hands like 93 and 82o in there in the first place? That seems pretty wide defend. But I guess I am not as optimistic or good as the GTO pro.
raise smaller bets more and bigger bets less... got it!
Is there a difference in the approach in low/high stake games?
And how does this approach differ in cash games/tourneys? If it even differs anyhow :D
Yes, you should always take advantage of what your opponents do incorrectly.
Alot people go burst with flush draw when faced with re-raise. Is this a must call when flush draw?
How significantly should you decrease your raise frequency in multi-way pots?
A lot.
Clarification please - preflop the suited combos on your range chart indicate any given suited combo. Confirm that your range chart for post-flop play indicates a suited combo as ONLY the suit with the draw on the board. All other hands eg. suited in hearts/clubs/diamonds on the first example with the spade draw, are now counted as 'offsuite.' Is this correct interpretation?
The range charts show all combinations of hands that are available as played.
what does it means the grey combinations in the chart?
I play in a seriously soft 1$/2$ cash game here I definitely need to exploitatively under raise because I have no fold equity. Also I'm usually not heads up, I am in a lot of multiway pots. I think the strategy is pretty much to just play a tighter range across the board. Move many of my draws to my check calling range to realize equity, and try to pile it in when I have the goods. I think I am looking for it to be more complicated than that but its not. Sometimes I do feel like I am too nitty in this game but it seems like theappropriate exploit.
I do think there is more opportunity to barrrel it off more especially since despite how wide villains are calling pre and post flop on the river, there is an opportunity to bluff hands since they are not arriving at the river balanced at all.
I do have your book Jonathan on mastering small stakes. I am going through it a second time right now. Are there hand breakdowns of you playing in any truly wild cash games? Like where standard raise is 8-10x and are usually 3-5 handed to every flop?
You’re exactly right, just tighten up like crazy and fast play nutted hands since you’re against a lot of opponents, all who have a little bit of equity and make your hand more vulnerable
You're playing it just right. Be prepared to rebuy, and play a nutted range to exploit people who call too much. There are situations to bluff, they're just very player dependent. Build an image first as tight, then bet big in spots when scary cards come in that will push off even the biggest calling stations. Used to play in a game like that, and once I adjusted it was easy pickings. Not necessarily the most interesting poker, but profitable nonetheless...
Very nice..
What’s the adjustment if your playing a nit who only C-bets if they connected with the board? If they still bet small are you still supposed to check raise with these hands?
NO. If you can, play the player
Where is the chart color code? What does each color mean?
Red is raise? Blue is fold? Green is call? What does the gray mean?
Gray is not in range, so hands that were folded preflop or 3-bet preflop, for example
What is a high equity draw?? What does that mean??
Think of equity as real estate. The ranges of the players are the land up for grabs.
If someone under the gun(first to act) raises, their range says they are raising something like pocket aces, kings, queens Ace king, etc. They are representing something good.
Now, let's say you have a J7 suited. The flop comes A J 2.
You have a pair of Jacks. This would beat cards in their range they would have raised with like TT, QT, KT.
They have you beat with AA, AK, AQ, etc.
If the opponent has 10 hands they would raise with, and you beat 5 of them on the flop, then you're 50/50 equity.
If you beat 4 out of 10 hands in their raise range, you have 40% equity.
Also, after the flop hits, you take the hands of theirs that you don't beat and calculate the outs vs your outs to beat those hands to know if you should continue the hand.
Basically, the process on the flop is...
1. If there are 10 pieces of real estate in the opponent range(hand they would raise with) how many do you beat right now?
2. Calculate outs of their possible hands left in their range vs your hand outs.
3. Calculate pot odds.
4. Pot odds vs. Your outs.
5. If you have better out odds(3 to 1) vs pot odds(5 to 1) then you should stay in. If you have bad odds(1 to 5) vs pot odds( 3 to 1) then you should check/fold.
I live play 1/2 and 1/3 games, should I be basing my strategy on my _actual_ range or on the range I think my _opponent believes_ I have?
In my experience, playing your possible range at a 1/2 table is how you lose all your money to bottom pair. Too many donks. Unless the game is filled with regs, I’m playing 1/2 extremely tight and going huge when I have a made hand.
"5% of the time is almost never" he says. i can hear the poker gods laughing 😂
my quastion is. How much should i raise?
Depends on the spot!
The spot you re showing us for example
That all depends on: your opponent, relative stack depths, and board texture. Try to study the solvers tendencies on specific board textures by grouping board textures and observing each positions bet sizing relative to the situation at hand
Blind answer raise 3x
Do you hate nut advantage? then bigger
Raise a straight draw from OOP...okay I raised...
Now it is my turn to act, the turn didn't help, and I have 16% chance of hitting my straight on the river.
Would you like me to continue the story?
open ended straight flush with 2 overs? Close my eyes and go all in
wouldnt you want to raise your high equity draws to win a big pot when your draw hits??
I did it again at the final table. Called a raise out of the small blind with KdQh. Flop came 109hh4. Check raised the flop and took it down!
64s = str8draw??
It's counter intuitive to me to raise with shittier draws....but I don't dare argue with the GTO gods lol
its risk management imo, when u have a weak draw the risk of getting to showdown with nothing (or making ur draw and still losing) is high
Folding a 28% draw needing 33%: Plus surely you can make that extra 5% on turn and/or river.
That was in the context of raising and getting shoved on.
exploit every street to the max. all day everyday. The true gto.
“Yes, we’re going broke with the J8.” 🥳😎🤓
Mr. Little I should call you Mr BIG , I LOVE YOU BIG DAWG ... I CANT WAIT TO MEET YOU , or even battle spar with you at tables .. #salute
Thanks!
The problem is GTO is based on the computer playing more hands than a human could in a lifetime Bet if your hand is in top 33% of villains range for his position might be more practical
Agreed. It's based on millions of hands, but in a tournament you aren't going to see millions. The numbers are not going to even out in the long run because the sample size isn't large enough.
In tournaments, there will be huge variance to GTO numbers based on millions of hands. I'd like to see GTO strategy based on 1000 hands or 5000 hands.
GTO seems like it's more for cash games where the cards run forever. Tournaments have a final hand. The next tournament is it's own thing. Can't mix two tournaments statistics together and get a good tournament strategy. It doesn't represent the small card sample size.
So 72o gets there on the flop, and calls a pot sized bet with A Q on the board and bottom pair. Gotcha.
He is saying unless you think your opponent has AQ then 7 2 (two pair) on that board is the hypothetical nuts and should be played aggressively. He's not telling you 72o is a great hand in general
@@rickyfiorentina there are not two pair for you on a flop of AQ7 when you have 72o (however the F you got there in the first place... Because solver, I guess)
@@TomRauhe I was talking about if the 2 came on a turn. It would be two pair
@@rickyfiorentina and if my mother had wheels she might be a bicycle.
@@TomRauhe should we trust the guy with 2 WPT titles and 7+ million in earnings or Mr. Tom Rauhe, who probably is a losing player at his local 2/5 table? I’ll go with the poker pro thanks
Mike Postle knows how to play draws. Watch some of his hands. Postle is the best river player in the history of water and card games.
😂😂😂 he's on of the best poker players ever
@@vamoneygroup Little FEARS Postle. I am going.out this Halloween as Mike Postle.
3 ways to play draws perfectly: hit your draws, hit your draws, hit your draws
the reality is so different ahah, playing like that against the field is so bad
Best tip to play draws: hit them.
Every piece of this guy's advice is situation dependent. If you don't know how to handle situations, this information is useless, and even harmful
No one cares about ranges, people call raise re-raise with anything
In this case, the range would be every two cards.
I’m not playing my draws correctly
For your example, you say "you will raise 22% of the time". Ok fine. But how does it unfold at tables ? So I have to not raise 78 times in a row, and then 22 times in a row I will raise ? How to apply that correctly ? Should we consider wind direction ? Air pressure ? Temperature ? I'm joking of course, but this is to say that it's pretty difficult to use this rule accordingly IMO. thanks anyway for the great content! 👍