Dude!!!!! If you were here I would give you a huge hug man!!! I have a 2000 s430 that would not start for anything and I proceeded to tear EVERYTHING apart thinking it was a wet electronics issue with the SAMs until i happen to run across your video! I had the same symptoms you mentioned with the AC fan coming on high from the get go and putting car into limp mode. I switched the coolant temp thanks to your very detailed video only to try to turn the car on and NOTHING again with the damned fan still blasting away. After screaming profanities in 3 different languages i decided to keep tracking thinking it has to be SAM related. As I proceed to track stuff down the high fan all of a sudden switches off!!!! I'm thinking, NO way it could be fixed and lo and behold I turn the key and the car cranks right up as if it nothing had ever happened!!! WOW, unbelievable turn of events, so my biggest thank you for folks such as yourself that take the time to help us out!!! Now I just have to piece the pieces and parts i took apart lol. Thank you again
Doesn’t seem like I did much but thanks! That was all you! Nice work on troubleshooting. That’s what fixes cars. Well and a little persistence helps too.
Hi friend, could you give a but more info on what you meant by tracking stuff down? I have my fan switching on max just the same way. Do you know what part or procedure was done to get the fan to stop going on immediately?
The car is a 1999 Mercedes Benz CLK 430. I had the water pump replaced, but now I need to know all the sensors that need to be reconnected to finish the install of the water pump area. So far, I reconnected the coolant temperature sensor, the MAP sensor in the water pump area. There are other sensors in the water pump area but i don't know what they are and their sensor function. Help me to identify those other sensors above the water pump on my clk 430.
Extremely informative video showing with the minimum of fuss for the simplicity of this Coolant Temperature Sensor replacement ! I used a precautionary plastic "bung" the same diameter of the replacement sensor to minimise what ,as you predicted was a minor coolant loss to my Mercedes E200 Many Thanks... J.F.Brown
Sudershan Rao It doesn’t have a special name really. Your local dealership can pin down the part number for you. I’m pretty sure this is the P/N: 0089889178
I have a 1999 e 430 Mercedes’ that will run prefect until Go’s 10 miles or so than it shuts down and will not start for a hour or so.Put a meter on the car and no codes are shown. radiator is full of coolant re start the car and the same scenario takes place again car runs 5 to 10 miles shut down but it sit for an hour restarts again with no codes show you is this a sure sign of the coolant heat resistor being defective 7:05
Whoa! That was quick and easy E10 is that a 10mm My guess is that’s what you are saying. That’s an easy change. I’m Going to do this while changing the oil Oil and a coolant flush too. At the same time but not exactly at the same time. Concurrently. Question. Resetting the check engine light. That part I don’t know how to do. I will be doing all this at home. Any input is welcome. S500 2004 4-Matic is a smooth ride. Everyone that has borrowed the car loves it.
Ian Newlin With this sensor going bad the car will set a check engine light. That was the case with this car. You can use your scanner to read the code that will point to a coolant temperature sensor. You may also notice that the temperature gauge might not read correctly.
Very good informative video. Thanks for sharing. Helped to cover the thermostat part. i have 2010 ML550, ans got P0128 code, just wanted to know if i should check coolant sensor before going for coolant thermostat?/where exactly this sensor is located? If i can have a diagram or picture to locate it so that i can replace it. Appreciate your help!"
WOW...I Can do this!! Thank you so much!🤗🥰❤ I am at a point where I'd rather at least try to do some of my maintenance than going to the d/stealership😁. Btw...Are you located in Northern Virginia? Thanks Again😇
2003 s500 Would this cause fan not to run? I've replaced the fan still no go ! But I can force the fan to run via my scanner at all speeds So I believe the fan works. great video also !!!
Jason Brown That fan is tied into 3 different fuses if you would like to check those out. They are fuse #F30, F44, and F87 F30 is located in the engine bay on the driver side fuse box (USA Left hand drive) F44 is located on the Passenger side fuse box (USA left hand drive) F87 is located inside the car on the PASSENGER side of the dash. Open the door and on the very end of the dash there is an access panel. (USA left hand drive) Just below the passenger hand side fog light, there is a small access panel. Untwist the two black latches with a coin. It's tricky to work through, but I did it and so can you. If for some reason you can't get to the module at all, you could always remove the entire lower engine cover. The fan control module is located slightly above the horn. The first time you see it, you'll think "No way can I get a socket wrench in there," but persevere and you will get a feel for it. I did it in the end by using a 3" extension bar.
Question(s), 92 500sl 1) is the replacement about the same... unplug the wires and use a wrench to remove..mine is on top left hand side(driver) of intake manifold with two wires attached 2) is there any gasket needed in addition to the new sensor or does the new sensor have every thing needed. Thanks
rioraton Yes the replacement requires just unscrewing the sensor and screwing in the new one. No gaskets needed. Your motor is actually a M119 V8 where as this motor is the successor the M113 V8.
Thanks for that quick response...did not know that tid bit of info being successor to m119 they called it the emission controlled version of the m119 Thanks again, you have a new subscriber.
rioraton Sorry I may have said that in a confusing way. I was referring to the motor shown in this video which is the M113. The M119 (your motor) is the predecessor to the M113. Thanks for the sub!
So, it just pulls out? No screwing or gasket sealant? I have the ML55 which is the same block but, I don't think I have that pump n stuff in the way? I'm changing the radiator and would just like to replace anything involving the cooling system. So I think this, the hoses, thermostat, and is there anything else that I'm missing? Thinking of installing an added transmission cooler also.
junglist1soldier Correct, it just pulls out. There is a little clip that holds it in. Your air pump is located in the same place as this one if I recall. Radiator, upper and lower radiator hoses, thermostat housing. That should be sufficient. Honestly unless you are properly beating on your car back to back I wouldn’t invest in an additional transmission cooler. Just opening up the possibility of leaks by adding in additional lines and splice points.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair thanks! Weird, I would think that the pressure would spit that sensor out but, guess not. Besides the things I'm replacing and the reservoir, are there any other cooling system components that can also be replaced that I may have missed? Thermostat, temperature sensor, hoses,.. ..?
Would I have to do anything special if there is no light just changing it for maintaince wouldn't have to reset anything right? Thermostat change as well coolants clean I have a clk 430
How did you know it was the coolant temperature sensor instead of the thermostat? My car is overheating and it’s not my lines it’s not my radiator because my radiator is brand new I’ve checked my air filters clean them clean my mass fair flow air sensor I’ve emptied the coolant it looked like oil not coolant I refilled the coolant I have done everything except touch the thermostat or that sensor. I do not have a check engine light my car just keeps overheating and I can’t find any leaks other than my oil pan but it has to something is my coolant because it’s like it’s not going through
So when you drained the coolant it looked like oil? When you pull your oil dipstick (if equipped) does it look milky? Or like a caramel latte? Lastly start you car up and let it get up to normal temperature. After that, turn it off and take off the oil fill cap and look under it. Does it have white residue on it? Look on my channel and go to the video that shows how to check for a blown head gasket.
Hi sir, You appear to know the issues well, thx: car is S500 2006. Coolant temp is about 100 after driving few min.Main coolant hose is not so tight full, is compressible. Coolant level does not change much in cold idle or when hot. Radiator service done. My OBD scan code is P0410. Check engine light is on. I get minimal hot air in cold weather. When cold, Coolant temp channel 6 is 63 C, Ch 3&4 show about 33 C. I changed auxiallry air injector twice. No effect. Is problem with coolant temp sensor, thermostat or duo-valve? Other mechanics were only guessing. Your thoughts? Thx.
kkg49 Hello, it seems you have a few things going on here. Sorry for the delay in my response. First off, the air pump code. Very common for these Mercedes. You mentioned you have changed the air pump twice already? Were these with brand new parts? When you start the car in the morning after sitting overnight, do you hear the pump running as it should be? Remove the engine cover to hear it better. It should run for 10-20 seconds then shut off. If you do not hear it running AND YOU KNOW you have a brand new pump on there, then you need to check the air pump fuse and relay. Those are located inside the fuse box on the LEFT when looking at the engine from the front of the car. There is a relay Labeled “N” that controls the air pump. You need to test that relay to make sure you hear it click. Or you can replaced the relay. It will be the 3rd one down starting your count from closest to inside the car. Also you need to check Fuse F31 which is at the very front of the box stacked with with three large fuses. Should be 40amp fuses I believe. It will be the fuse closest to the middle of the box in that stack of three. Now onto your heat situation. So your car constantly drives around @ 100 degrees Celsius? No matter if you are moving or if it is cold or hot outside?
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair Awesome . very kind of you to reply. And you were right on money. Yes secondary air injector was replaced with new part. F31 was the fault and replaced it now. Relay is ok. Now Air injector comes on to start, goes off after few sec as expected. I will see if P0410/check engine light comes back or not . Heat issue: gauge starts from zero, moves to about 85-95 in this winter time. I have to set temp to >20 degree higher than outside temp and A/C off , to feel some heat. It is not like before. Channel temp 2&3 are about 30 and ch 1 is about 65 or 90 when hot. Is that issue coolant temp sensor, duo-valve or thermostat? If you give me your address, I will like to send you a bottle of wine or scotch. Thx bro.
kkg49 The coolant temperature being between 80ish-100 is normal. As long as it doesn’t go over 100 you are ok and the thermostat and water pump and fans should be doing their jobs. If you had perfectly good interior heat before and all of a sudden you don’t, I am most certainly leaning towards a bad duo-valve. Faulty thermostats will give a CEL code 8/10 times. Since you do not have that code, and your cooling temps are being regulated fine, I am thinking the duo valve should be replaced. It can be either the duo valve or the auxiliary water pump that is bad. The auxiliary water pump is attached to the duo valve assembly. Makes the most sense to just replace the whole unit. Try a known good used replacement if you want to try and be sure but I’m about 85% sure the duo-valve is faulty.
I don’t have a video showing how to replace the fan. These car’s fans are usually just held on by a few screws that hood the big plastic fan shroud to the radiator. Here is a link to help with the fuse and relay locations: w220.wiki/Fuses
Hi Ricardo, Thanks for the video. I have an ML500, the auxiliary fan turns on and revs up as soon as I turn the engine on from cold. Would that be because of a bad temperature sensor too? Thanks.
Boeno Noches Well seeing that the gauge is reading a temperature I would think that the sensor is doing just fine. The thermostat is probably stuck open. Do you get good heat inside the car? Does it take a long time for the temperature gauge to warm up?
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair It takes a long time for the car to warm up and its 60 70 85 degrees max the car is v8 500 and the temperature sometimes drops on a long road to 50 60 and the heat is not that good
Thank for the video. Do you by any chance know the part number for coolant temperature sensor connector? My sensor is fine but the connector is totally broken. Thanks.
Yes. Well I was already working on the radiator on this car so mine was already drained. I suppose if you’re fast enough, you could pop it out and slip the new one in. However you definitely will have coolant everywhere.
Hey, awesome video. Would you happen to know where the ECT sensor is on a 2013 CLS550 (w218) ? If the ECT sensor is faulty can it cause the fan to not kick in when its suppose to? Thank you.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair Thanks for the quick response. By reading all the comments here based on Mercedes its normal to be at the temp of 90-100? I replaced the entire fan assembly it was making a very loud noise and hard to spin by hand also I was getting a temp gauge light. Now no more temp gauge light. Usually the temp is at 90, now 90 up to 95... Is the ECT sensor faulty? Air pockets in the system you think? or maybe cause I am here in Central FL and the weather is causing this? Thanks for you help just been trouble shooting this for the past two weeks.
90 is normal. 95-100* C in hotter ambient temp is normal. If it starts creeping above 100 I would start looking into a faulty fan, or faulty thermostat.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair Hello again, I wanted to ask how would I know the thermostat needs to be replaced? Just took the for a drive and it went to 100* and the ac was not blowing cold. Any ideas of what it could be ?
Check for proper fan operation. If you are sitting in traffic or at a light for a little while and the temp rises to 100* C that’s normally OK. However since you say the ac is hot it leads me to believe that the Fan isn’t working.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair the plastic disintegrated and left the copper tube stuck. But an easy-out got the job done fairly easily. Thanks for the great video!
This would be best diagnosed by using a star Mercedes scanner (ie dealership or hood indy shop) or a shop capable of reading body modules and/or climate control modules. This will point you in the right direction. In my experience with these cars, you should first make sure you don’t have a coolant leak and make sure the coolant reservoir is at the correct level. If it is and the coolant light is still on, then replace the coolant level sender on the coolant reservoir and see if the fan stops running. If it still stays running, you’re problem is most likely the fan control module.
rioraton honestly I am not sure of this. I have always tightened them down just snug enough for myself. Engines have torque specs for certain things. Some are critical pieces. A coolant sending unit really isn’t what you would call critical. Just tighten it until you feel comfortable. The point where you start to second guess “is it tight enough?” Is where you should stop.
Do you have a check engine light on? If you do, then get the code read. Autozone and Oreilly usually will check these for free. However given the current circumstances (COVID-19) they may not. If not you can buy a cheap OBD-2 scanner pretty much anywhere online nowadays. Harbor freight also has some cheap ones. As long as it can retrieve codes AND delete them. If you DO NOT have codes AND the temperature goes up to around 95-100* C while sitting.That’s normal. If it starts to climb above 105*C and keeps climbing, you either have a bad fan or a bad thermostat.
I did coolant flush job on my S430 4matic. Seem to be ok but I don't think I properly bleed the system as I am not getting hot air or other possibility is I may not have done the proper coolant dilution ratio from the concentrate I had. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks
Does that sensor control the cooling fan? I have a 2007 sl550 with sensor in thermostat housing.fan will run if you turn on ac but not on its own.i replaced the sensor on backside of engine and checked relays and fuses
Hi, thanks for your guidance and video. In Summer, my W210 cranked but not started engine. I replaced all spark plugs and a new battery, no improvement. Then I replaced crankshaft position sensors, the one at the back. Then it resume to normal. For safe, I also replaced the front camshaft position sensor. Every thing looks good. In Winter, I found a little bit more 1-2 second while doing cold start. Once the engine is running for warm/hot. Turn off and turn on the enginee again, looking normal. So my situation is that - while doing cold start, it takes a little bit time and still can start. Can you recommend the coolant temperature sensor be the root cause? I don't know whether this sensor is almost gone and required replacement. This is a 2001 V6 facelift model, automatic transmission. Thanks again.
Was the crank sensor an OE Mercedes part? If not it possibly could be failing again. These things have a high failure rate in these Mercedes without giving a CEL. I would check these things in order: 1. Crank sensor (again) 2. Camshaft sensor 3. Fuel pump If the fuel pump is original then there is a chance that the fuel pressure regulator has gone bad and it is built into the pump. If it has failed, then fuel pressure is being lost as the car sits for a few hours or more. Then once you come back to start it the fuel pressure will need to be primed again before firing.
No problem. I will say that if the fans aren’t coming on when you turn on the AC, you could have a problem with the fan. Also if the fans are not coming on by the time the temp reaches ~100 degrees Celsius, then you probably have a problem as well.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair thank you very much for the information.I’ll try it again soon . Fan was working ok then quit, got new one put it won’t kick in I test it directly with a battery in fan does work .
I have a 2000 S430 Benz I scan my car and P0115 would show up on my scanner I tried many times on replacing my sensor. My check engine light will pop back on-on a long distance ride. What do you think the problem is?
Helping Hand Auto Repair I go to auto zone. I've changed that coolant sensor about 5 to 6 times. I have been having the same issue since I bought that car in 2011. When I reset it. It depends on how many millages I drive to make that check engine light come on again.
elmer ellis Wow! Ok we can assume your new parts are in good working order. 1. you can test the resistance with a DVM (aka multi-meter) the reading will vary depending on the temperature of the sensor but a reading between 500-10k ohms should be fine. Anything above or below that will require to get a new sensor. You will also need to check the wiring at the connector to make sure you have good wiring. When you look at the connector there will be two wires going into to it. There will be a ground wire which is normally black in most cases however it could be brown given that’s what most EURO cars tend to use as a ground color. The other wire will be some other color besides black or brown. 2. You will need to unplug the connector and turn the key to the ON POSITION (don’t start the car) then connect the red lead of the DVM to the positive battery terminal and the black lead to the ground pin (the black or brown wire) You should see battery voltage. If you don’t then you may have a broken wire somewhere back towards the ECM (most likely) or a bad ECM (unlikely) 3. Checking for 5v ECM reference power you will still leave the key in the ON POSITION (don’t start the car) then connect the black DVM lead to the ground pin (brown or black wire) and the red DVM lead to the reference pin (the other wire) you should see 5v of power now. If the step above passed then you most likely have a ECM problem. Check into these wiring test and let me know what you find.
Hey is this the temperature sensor that why my dash is red saying low coolant in i just replaced my resovoir in put new coolant so now its has be the temperature sensor thanks alot w209 cLk 320
It will allow to ECU to get the correct temperature to allow the fan to come on IF the engine is getting too hot. You could have an issue with the fan itself if it’s not coming on. It’s pretty common for these fans to fail.
Great video, thank you. I’ve a 2001 ML55 and I thought fan needed replacing. Car would overheat because fan not coming on. When I tested fan, it would come on momentarily and then turn off. Both new and old fan did same thing when connected. So could it be the thermostat sensor? Or what else could it be. Interior dashboard light comes on and off all the time. There’s no check engine light. Do you have any ideas please. Thank you for the great videos and for taking the time to respond.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair Fan control module is located on the fan. Since I replaced the entire fan with a brand new unit, I figure it couldn't be the fan anymore because it is new. When I plugged it in, the fan would momentarily come on and begin spinning for 10 seconds before turning off and coming to a stop. It did this on both the old and the new fan. I tried unplugging it and plugging it back in but it would only occasionally start to spin before turning off again. I am almost tempted to set up a direct power cable from the battery to the fan so i can just turn it on and off manually with a switch from inside the car!!!!!!! Thanks so much for answering, I wish I could just solve this problem :) Pls let me know if you have any other suggestions. Cheers
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair Fan control module is located on the fan. Since I replaced the entire fan with a brand new unit, I figure it couldn't be the fan anymore because it is new. When I plugged it in, the fan would momentarily come on and begin spinning for 10 seconds before turning off and coming to a stop. It did this on both the old and the new fan. I tried unplugging it and plugging it back in but it would only occasionally start to spin before turning off again. I am almost tempted to set up a direct power cable from the battery to the fan so i can just turn it on and off manually with a switch from inside the car!!!!!!! Thanks so much for answering, I wish I could just solve this problem :) Pls let me know if you have any other suggestions. Cheers
Jamie Trent hello. I’m so very sorry for not reading your entire comment. I am coming clean for that. It’s just over the years when people refer to their Mercedes overheating, and I see the word “fan” somewhere, I immediately jump to the fan control module. Seeing that you have actually replaced this already, let me ask you a couple of questions to try and help you out: 1. Does the fan run when you turn on the AC? 2. Does your gauge cluster temperature operate correctly? When the temperature gets over 100 degrees C does the fan come on?
Hi is it normal for my 2004 Mercedes Benz s500 engine temperature gauge to be going up and down while I drive? It will never be going in the red zone but I was wondering if it was normal for the gauge to flauntate?
H L It is normal for these car’s temp gauges to fluctuate sometimes but it depends on how much it is moving. If it is moving beyond the 100C and up towards 120C you have a problem. Also if it rises pretty quickly while sitting (traffic, stop sign, stop light) and then immediately falls when you accelerate then you also have a problem.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair oh OK, so is it all European cars or just Benz? Since I had a BMW 325i and it did the same thing as well, while Acura never did that
H L Benz yes. BMW shouldn’t do that. Those should rise to the middle and pretty much stay rock solid. Of course I don’t know what year bmw you’re referring to. Also let me clarify that Benz should warm up to normal operating temp and then stay relatively still unless sitting in traffic where the gauge could climb up to 100C but should never go up about that MOST of the time. If it does then you have a problem.
It depends on how much coolant you drained out of the system. If you just drained the radiator, I would get two gallons. If you drained more, you will need more.
Hola!!muchas gracias por tu vide, no entiendo el ingles pero me e guiado por los comentarios (traduciéndolos) Mi problema es en un mercedes clk 500 v8 Y es que pones el contacto y el ventilador se enciende a máxima velocidad Arranca sin problema,pero el ventilador queda encendido todo el tiempo La temperatura se queda en la mitad (no se sobrecalienta) Pero el ventilador esta encendido todo el tiempo Ayuda por favor
@@esiquiodelgadillo2760 Hey, did you every find out what the issue was? I having an issue where I think my fan is not coming on when its suppose to. Did you replace the sensor? Thanks
Question I have a clk 55(also has the m113) yesterday when I tried to start it from a cold start the car started but the engine fan was on high speed immediately. I shut the car off and tried starting it again, it would not start and the engine fan kept blowing at high speed. Check coolent temp and visit workshop warning came on. Could this be symptoms of a failed temp sensor? As I mentioned this is from a cold start so there's no way the engine was hot or overheating.
Revino Theron First scan for codes. The ECU controls the fan speed. It will run it on high if it cannot determine the engine temp, or if it thinks you need max AC cooling. If all of that is working properly, check the wiring to the fan to make sure it's not broken and is securely plugged in and not corroded. If all that is good, then it probably is a bad control module on the fan itself.
I have an 03 E500 I have replaced the engine temp sensor, t-stat, and Radiator coolant temp gauge will max out not long after car starts. The coolant temp on the scan tool reads perfect so not sure what’s wrong with the cluster temp gauge need help?
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair yeah check engine light is on but only codes stored are O2 sensor codes nothing at all with coolant temp. Also watching the Data pids and coolant temp cycles are around 90C-94C and cooling fan cycles like it should.
Well if you can confirm that the SCANNER is reading the correct temp (you can verify with an IR heat gun on a radiator hose) then likely your cluster gauge is wrong.
Also make sure that the O ring on the old sensor comes out. If it’s old it might get stuck in the housing. Use your pick to fish it out. Also make sure that your new sensor has an O ring on it.
It will give you faulty coolant readings on the gauge. If it’s not into the block completely, it will leak coolant. If the connector isn’t seated fully, you will get erroneous gauge readings.
It will give you faulty coolant readings on the gauge. If it’s not into the block completely, it will leak coolant. If the connector isn’t seated fully, you will get erroneous gauge readings.
It will give you faulty coolant readings on the gauge. If it’s not into the block completely, it will leak coolant. If the connector isn’t seated fully, you will get erroneous gauge readings.
It will give you faulty coolant readings on the gauge. If it’s not into the block completely, it will leak coolant. If the connector isn’t seated fully, you will get erroneous gauge readings.
It will give you faulty coolant readings on the gauge. If it’s not into the block completely, it will leak coolant. If the connector isn’t seated fully, you will get erroneous gauge readings.
hey thanks for the video , the problem i'm having is steam is coming from the driver side of the motor , like a pressure relief valve letting off pressure. Not sure what it is, it blow off and stop and does it again in couple minutes. I would like to sent you the video to get you advise.
Can this be why my radiator fan not coming on even when i activate the ac the fan dnt come on. The car dont overheat but the temp goes up when im in traffic stopped like it wants over heat but the fan never turns on it goes down when im driving.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair it finally seen thr fan come on but not at 80 on the temp cluster guage. comes on a little past the half temp guage around 90 95 degress i feel like that it should always be at 80 mid mark right?
I just got a 1995 e420 and it's blowing out heat on the two outside vents and front dash defrost while AC is on. Only the middle vents are blowing out cold air. Please advise? Thanks
The car in this video is definitely not a 1995 e420. Your car is an old system. It is electromechanical. There are many things that are probably old now. You should first check the duo-valve course n your car to make sure that it is functioning correctly.
Does it go higher than 98 degrees? The fans are computer controlled. They usually will come on around 97-98 degree Centigrade. It is normal for the car to reach around 100 degrees C and sit there in hot outside temperatures.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair the highest temperature of scene 99 without ac on idont normally use ac beacus I only drive 12 MI ady but I'm not sure the fan turns on or not automatically but I'll check it out tomorrow because we're going to have another hot day in Texas thanks for all your help I'll keep in touch
If it gets to 99-100 that’s normal range. If it’s 90+ degrees outside then that’s perfectly normal. If the temp starts climbing above 105 + then I would make sure the fans are coming on.
My w220 s500 is throwing a coolant light visit work shop I thought it might be the coolant reservoir sensor but I had my heat off from a cold start and let it get to regular temp 80 then waited 5 mins after and turned on the heat and got the coolant light visit workshop could this be because of thermostat? I live in Wisconsin and its below freezing any ideas why I'm getting the light? And when I'm in idle with the heat going my temp goes above 80 on the dash goes to like 90 almost 100 any suggestions would be greatly appreciated
Kotalrw Temperature gauge going up to 100 is perfectly normal. When it starts creeping up above 100 is when I would worry. Check the coolant reservoir next time before starting the car and see if it is low.
That will be under the plastic cover. On the front of the engine. There should be three sensors on the top of the motor in the front. The sensor all the way to the LEFT (as you are looking at the engine) is the coolant temp sensor for the gauge inside the car. It should be a single pin connector.
I have the "Add Coolant" message and I looked at the coolant level in my car and its full. Changing the Temperature Sensor, will that correct the problem?
Wendy Turner No there is a sensor that measures the level of the coolant inside the expansion tank (the plastic tank that you add coolant to) you need to check the level of the coolant after the car has been sitting for awhile (overnight is best) while it is completely cold. If it is low, add coolant. If it is full then your coolant level sensor is most likely faulty under the expansion tank. It just unclips and twist it sideways and it should pull out. Part number: 005923081
Hello I own a Chrysler Crossfire it is made by Mercedes it has the 3.2 liter v6 Mercedes engine. My yellow warning light on the dash showing coolant level came on out of the blue cause after the car sat a few days the coolant is at normal level and temp gauge is right in the middle normal level it heats up and the coolant is right up to the plastic level inside the coolant overflow jug. Can you advise me what it could be. I see there is a sensor at the bottom of the coolant jug and I took it out and shook the sensor and bypassed the wire to see if the light would go out it is still on. thank you for any advice to have it shut off
Most of the Mercedes switches have a built in resistor to tell when the circuit has been shorted or is open. In your case shorted (jumping the wires) I’m pretty sure your sensor is built into the reservoir with a float inside it. You can take the reservoir off the car and test it in your house with a voltmeter set to ohms. It is a very small reading but pretty much you can find a way to cap off the holes so nothing can come out. After doing that leave the bottle empty and check the resistance on the sensor. It should be a low reading. Have someone fill the bottle slowly to the full mark and notice a rise in ohms. If it rises then the sensor should be working fine. If it shows open or “OL” at some point then replace it.
It is located on the driver side (USA CAR) of the car. If you jack up the car and look just under the radiator. There will be a sensor that is clipped into the front grille area. That is the outside air temp sensor. w220.ee/images/1/1a/W220_temperature_sensor_inside_bumper.jpg
Well my macanic just put a new thermostat in however hmm i was thinking this started to happen when he put the knew one on is it even possible for that to happen?
kenny glover Depending on how recent that was he could have not bled the system correctly. There could be air bubbles in the system. Alternatively the radiator fan could not be working as well. If you can do so, drive the car around and let it get up to temp. Then park the car turn OFF the AC and let it idle. Watch the temp. As the temp rises pay attention to the fan and see if it comes on. 100 should be about max it should hit while sitting. Maybe 102ish but going over that the fans should definitely be on. If the fans come on and the temp still rises or doesn’t fall then I suspect a faulty thermostat.
kenny glover I think we are talking in two comments. I mentioned before if the temp is going to the line between 80 and 120 then that’s completely normal.
Robear Le I assume you’re in California? If so you need to invest in a scanner to see what monitors are not set yet as there is a certain drive cycle for every manufacturer. You’re only allowed the EVAP monitor to be incomplete for your car.
If you have the M272 engine (you should) the coolant temp sensor is located behind the engine. If you are looking at the engine (standing in front of the car) the sensor is located on the right cylinder head on the back under the crank sensor. Check out this link below: www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Mercedes-W204/37-WATER-Coolant_Temperature_Sensor_Replacement/37-WATER-Coolant_Temperature_Sensor_Replacement.htm
My research has lead me to believe that my 2010 ML 63 AMG is having the same problem. I get a check engine light during the summer months but I never get one during the winter months. I also noticed the my Engine coolant fan has never come on either during the summer. When I put the diagnostic tool on the car to trouble shoot the issue it generated a p code that tracked back to a fuel Rail sensor. That has been changed twice but never fixed the issue. I was able to start the fan using the diagnostic tool however it has yet to engage while I’m driving during the summer months. So I have narrowed it down to the engine coolant temperature sensor. I read that if this sensor goes bad that one of the symptoms is that it will generate a Check Engine Light.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair I used the Creader VIII ODB code reader. It produced a p0189 code which gives a Fuel Temperature Sensor. I believe that there is one one the Fuel Rail and one in the fuel tank. I have changed the fuel rail temperature sensor 3 times and it hasn’t fixed the problem. Maybe its the one in the fuel tank. Not sure of the ambient air temps however when it is hot and or muggy the check engine light will eventually come on. I haven’t monitored my gas mileage when the light is on but acceleration feels different. I accelerate hard just to see how the car reacts and it will react diffferent at times meaning I would have to give it more throttle at times to make it accelerate the same as if the light wasn’t on.
Where do you live? What type of climate? Is there high humidity? P0189 is fuel circuit B. This is the fuel tank sensor. Replacing the rail sensor won’t help. You need to replace the fuel tank sensor.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair Yes I live in Washington DC area. Lots of hot humid weather during the summer months. I knew you would have something for me! I will replace that. I think this requires droping the fuel tank and going inside to make this repair. I’ll check with Mercedes to see what that would cost.
Thank you so much for this response! Your video was very helpful..I tried what you said on the video..I replaced the sensor because the temp was showing over 100 and it keep going up until it reached the red mark! I thought it was the sensor but this keeps happening.. So I will be buying a thermostat today... Thank you again...
Brenaie Bonner The temp going to 100 is perfectly normal for these cars. If it starts creeping up past 100 INTO the red then yes there is an issue. First you need to make sure that your warm up the car completely. Take it for a 10-15 mins drive around town. NOT on the freeway. Bring it home and let it idle for 5 mins or so. Check to see if the upper and lower hoses are roughly the same temperature when you touch them. If they are then the thermostat is working just fine. If they aren’t then you have a bad thermostat (brand new parts can fail out of the box) If the hose are the same temp when you touch them and the temperature stills climbs into the red zone then you need to make sure that the electric fan is turning on. If it is not then most likely there is your reason for the temperature climbing into the red zone.
Brenaie Bonner if the fan isn’t turning on make sure you check the fuses related to that fan and don’t just go out and buy one right away. These fans have a controller that sometimes goes bad even though the fan works just fine. Just let me know.
Thanks for the reply nah its not exactly going to 120 but definitely headed that way then i push it to 70 on interstate it will go back down to 80 but my coolant light recently came on first time i have seen that however its full and not leaking
kenny glover So it warms up while sitting is what I’m getting. Then once you started driving faster the temp goes back down? Are you checking the reservoir when the car has cooled down completely? That is when you need to check it. I have a hunch your thermostat might be bad. Check very closely for coolant leaks. They leave white residue behind when it has leaked and dried up. Check my channel under Chrysler Sebring and you can see the dried up coolant.
Hello I have a 2014 cla250 and the temperature guage keeps going from 80 to 120 but never gets to the red line and the car has the coolant water normal and the check engine light is Not on so what could it be? Could it be the Sensor or Thermostat ? 🤔 🤷
KAHLED taj No this sensor is for the gauge temp reading. The fan control module is located around the fan/radiator area. You may have soaked it in water.
Joe Chance I assume you refill the coolant when it says low coolant right? If so and it goes off and comes back then you have one of two problems: 1. A coolant leak 2. Coolant being consumed by the engine.
Is this the reason why my ml320 2003 Mercedes temp gauge is going from 80 up towards 120 then back down to 80 just keeps this same routine ran 🔥 only 1 time on my wife not myself but i dont like this routine up down?
Helping Hand Auto Repair my 2001 s500 is throwing a coolant light and the temp gauge rises when at idle (stopped or in traffic) what could be causing that any ideas?
Nah it doesn't move up to 120 sitting still but if i have been running for a while sitting still it moves passed 80 headed toward 120 then almost midway near 120
Dude!!!!! If you were here I would give you a huge hug man!!! I have a 2000 s430 that would not start for anything and I proceeded to tear EVERYTHING apart thinking it was a wet electronics issue with the SAMs until i happen to run across your video! I had the same symptoms you mentioned with the AC fan coming on high from the get go and putting car into limp mode. I switched the coolant temp thanks to your very detailed video only to try to turn the car on and NOTHING again with the damned fan still blasting away. After screaming profanities in 3 different languages i decided to keep tracking thinking it has to be SAM related. As I proceed to track stuff down the high fan all of a sudden switches off!!!! I'm thinking, NO way it could be fixed and lo and behold I turn the key and the car cranks right up as if it nothing had ever happened!!! WOW, unbelievable turn of events, so my biggest thank you for folks such as yourself that take the time to help us out!!! Now I just have to piece the pieces and parts i took apart lol. Thank you again
Doesn’t seem like I did much but thanks! That was all you! Nice work on troubleshooting. That’s what fixes cars. Well and a little persistence helps too.
Hi friend, could you give a but more info on what you meant by tracking stuff down? I have my fan switching on max just the same way. Do you know what part or procedure was done to get the fan to stop going on immediately?
Здравствуйте. В чём причина у вас была? Почему вентилятор срабатывал и машина не запускалась? У меня тоже самое
The car is a 1999 Mercedes Benz CLK 430. I had the water pump replaced, but now I need to know all the sensors that need to be reconnected to finish the install of the water pump area. So far, I reconnected the coolant temperature sensor, the MAP sensor in the water pump area. There are other sensors in the water pump area but i don't know what they are and their sensor function. Help me to identify those other sensors above the water pump on my clk 430.
Some food for thought: I'd open the cap to the coolant resovoir so you can relief pressure before removing any hoses with pressure
Extremely informative video showing with the minimum of fuss for the simplicity of this Coolant Temperature Sensor replacement ! I used a precautionary plastic "bung" the same diameter of the replacement sensor to minimise what ,as you predicted was a minor coolant loss to my Mercedes E200 Many Thanks... J.F.Brown
please post more vids with M113 v8 thanks
KubaK Is there anything you need to know specifically?
Very helpful. The clip that holds the sensor popped out and can’t find it. What’s the part called sir? Thanks again
Sudershan Rao It doesn’t have a special name really. Your local dealership can pin down the part number for you. I’m pretty sure this is the P/N: 0089889178
I have a 2000 s500 and the see work shop light is on but everything is fine should I change this sensor ? thanks Clyde
That can mean a variety of things. Best to have the car scanned using star DAS scanner.
I have a 1999 e 430 Mercedes’ that will run prefect until Go’s 10 miles or so than it shuts down and will not start for a hour or so.Put a meter on the car and no codes are shown. radiator is full of coolant re start the car and the same scenario takes place again car runs 5 to 10 miles shut down but it sit for an hour restarts again with no codes show you is this a sure sign of the coolant heat resistor being defective 7:05
I would put my money on a bad crankshaft position sensor.
Will this be similar to 2002 s55 Amg? Thanks.
Yes
Whoa! That was quick and easy
E10 is that a 10mm
My guess is that’s what you are saying.
That’s an easy change. I’m
Going to do
this while changing the oil
Oil and a coolant flush too. At the same time but not exactly at the same time. Concurrently.
Question.
Resetting the check engine light. That part I don’t know how to do. I will be doing all this at home.
Any input is welcome.
S500 2004 4-Matic is a smooth ride. Everyone that has borrowed the car loves it.
This video was very helpful....I replaced the Map sensor and temp control sensor due to these instructions.... Thanks
What are the symptoms of a failed or failing temp sensor?
Ian Newlin With this sensor going bad the car will set a check engine light. That was the case with this car. You can use your scanner to read the code that will point to a coolant temperature sensor. You may also notice that the temperature gauge might not read correctly.
Very good informative video. Thanks for sharing. Helped to cover the thermostat part. i have 2010 ML550, ans got P0128 code, just wanted to know if i should check coolant sensor before going for coolant thermostat?/where exactly this sensor is located? If i can have a diagram or picture to locate it so that i can replace it. Appreciate your help!"
WOW...I Can do this!! Thank you so much!🤗🥰❤ I am at a point where I'd rather at least try to do some of my maintenance than going to the d/stealership😁. Btw...Are you located in Northern Virginia? Thanks Again😇
Sorry located in California.
NorCal
2003 s500 Would this cause fan not to run? I've replaced the fan still no go ! But I can force the fan to run via my scanner at all speeds So I believe the fan works. great video also !!!
Jason Brown That fan is tied into 3 different fuses if you would like to check those out. They are fuse #F30, F44, and F87
F30 is located in the engine bay on the driver side fuse box (USA Left hand drive)
F44 is located on the Passenger side fuse box (USA left hand drive)
F87 is located inside the car on the PASSENGER side of the dash. Open the door and on the very end of the dash there is an access panel. (USA left hand drive)
Just below the passenger hand side fog light, there is a small access panel. Untwist the two black latches with a coin. It's tricky to work through, but I did it and so can you. If for some reason you can't get to the module at all, you could always remove the entire lower engine cover.
The fan control module is located slightly above the horn. The first time you see it, you'll think "No way can I get a socket wrench in there," but persevere and you will get a feel for it. I did it in the end by using a 3" extension bar.
I have a 08 cls550 and my fan run wide open when I crank it up I'm thinking it's one of the sensors
Thank you for this video. It truly was helpful.
Elizabeth Chaddock You’re very welcome.
Can this cause electrical issues like my dash lights going on and off and interior lights as well
Not likely.
I was wondering if you could tell me where the idle control valve is for the M1 13K engine? I’m getting a check engine light for that.
You are a fantastic helper gentleman, thanks again 🙂
Sudershan Rao thanks!
Question(s), 92 500sl 1) is the replacement about the same... unplug the wires and use a wrench to remove..mine is on top left hand side(driver) of intake manifold with two wires attached 2) is there any gasket needed in addition to the new sensor or does the new sensor have every thing needed. Thanks
rioraton Yes the replacement requires just unscrewing the sensor and screwing in the new one. No gaskets needed. Your motor is actually a M119 V8 where as this motor is the successor the M113 V8.
Thanks for that quick response...did not know that tid bit of info being successor to m119 they called it the emission controlled version of the m119 Thanks again, you have a new subscriber.
rioraton Sorry I may have said that in a confusing way. I was referring to the motor shown in this video which is the M113. The M119 (your motor) is the predecessor to the M113. Thanks for the sub!
Correct...no thank you for a informative video it really helps out
GRACIAS AMIGO
BIEN EXPLICASO
SE VOY A CAMBIAR
TAMMBIEN A MI CARRO .
TK
I just bought that car do you recommend to put a turbo on it or just leave it stock
Leave it alone. Turbo setups are costly. You don’t want to trying and budget build a turbo kit for this car or any car for that matter.
So, it just pulls out? No screwing or gasket sealant? I have the ML55 which is the same block but, I don't think I have that pump n stuff in the way? I'm changing the radiator and would just like to replace anything involving the cooling system. So I think this, the hoses, thermostat, and is there anything else that I'm missing?
Thinking of installing an added transmission cooler also.
junglist1soldier Correct, it just pulls out. There is a little clip that holds it in. Your air pump is located in the same place as this one if I recall. Radiator, upper and lower radiator hoses, thermostat housing. That should be sufficient. Honestly unless you are properly beating on your car back to back I wouldn’t invest in an additional transmission cooler. Just opening up the possibility of leaks by adding in additional lines and splice points.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair thanks! Weird, I would think that the pressure would spit that sensor out but, guess not. Besides the things I'm replacing and the reservoir, are there any other cooling system components that can also be replaced that I may have missed? Thermostat, temperature sensor, hoses,.. ..?
junglist1soldier yes, I mentioned them above already.
Very luxury, Powerful, Amazing car...
They are nice cars. I prefer the older models.
Awesome video! Helped me a lot thank you 👌👌👌
Ricardo Lopez you’re very welcome!
Would I have to do anything special if there is no light just changing it for maintaince wouldn't have to reset anything right? Thermostat change as well coolants clean I have a clk 430
Nothing special. Just replace the part.
Thanks for sharing this great information
Glad it was helpful!
How did you know it was the coolant temperature sensor instead of the thermostat? My car is overheating and it’s not my lines it’s not my radiator because my radiator is brand new I’ve checked my air filters clean them clean my mass fair flow air sensor I’ve emptied the coolant it looked like oil not coolant I refilled the coolant I have done everything except touch the thermostat or that sensor. I do not have a check engine light my car just keeps overheating and I can’t find any leaks other than my oil pan but it has to something is my coolant because it’s like it’s not going through
So when you drained the coolant it looked like oil? When you pull your oil dipstick (if equipped) does it look milky? Or like a caramel latte?
Lastly start you car up and let it get up to normal temperature. After that, turn it off and take off the oil fill cap and look under it. Does it have white residue on it?
Look on my channel and go to the video that shows how to check for a blown head gasket.
Thank you
Is this in the same place on a cls 500 o6 model
Joe Chance yes
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair thanks
Quick question. I have an SL500 the fan does not kick at all. Would this cause the fan to not engage? The fan does work when the AC on
Myonly TH-camAccount The fan has a module built into it. It very well could have failed. Does the engine temp gauge read correctly inside the car?
Hi sir, You appear to know the issues well, thx: car is S500 2006. Coolant temp is about 100 after driving few min.Main coolant hose is not so tight full, is compressible. Coolant level does not change much in cold idle or when hot. Radiator service done. My OBD scan code is P0410. Check engine light is on. I get minimal hot air in cold weather. When cold, Coolant temp channel 6 is 63 C, Ch 3&4 show about 33 C.
I changed auxiallry air injector twice. No effect. Is problem with coolant temp sensor, thermostat or duo-valve? Other mechanics were only guessing. Your thoughts? Thx.
kkg49 Hello, it seems you have a few things going on here. Sorry for the delay in my response. First off, the air pump code. Very common for these Mercedes. You mentioned you have changed the air pump twice already? Were these with brand new parts?
When you start the car in the morning after sitting overnight, do you hear the pump running as it should be? Remove the engine cover to hear it better. It should run for 10-20 seconds then shut off. If you do not hear it running AND YOU KNOW you have a brand new pump on there, then you need to check the air pump fuse and relay. Those are located inside the fuse box on the LEFT when looking at the engine from the front of the car. There is a relay Labeled “N” that controls the air pump. You need to test that relay to make sure you hear it click. Or you can replaced the relay. It will be the 3rd one down starting your count from closest to inside the car. Also you need to check Fuse F31 which is at the very front of the box stacked with with three large fuses. Should be 40amp fuses I believe. It will be the fuse closest to the middle of the box in that stack of three.
Now onto your heat situation. So your car constantly drives around @ 100 degrees Celsius? No matter if you are moving or if it is cold or hot outside?
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair Awesome . very kind of you to reply. And you were right on money. Yes secondary air injector was replaced with new part. F31 was the fault and replaced it now. Relay is ok. Now Air injector comes on to start, goes off after few sec as expected. I will see if P0410/check engine light comes back or not .
Heat issue: gauge starts from zero, moves to about 85-95 in this winter time. I have to set temp to >20 degree higher than outside temp and A/C off , to feel some heat. It is not like before. Channel temp 2&3 are about 30 and ch 1 is about 65 or 90 when hot. Is that issue coolant temp sensor, duo-valve or thermostat?
If you give me your address, I will like to send you a bottle of wine or scotch. Thx bro.
kkg49 The coolant temperature being between 80ish-100 is normal. As long as it doesn’t go over 100 you are ok and the thermostat and water pump and fans should be doing their jobs. If you had perfectly good interior heat before and all of a sudden you don’t, I am most certainly leaning towards a bad duo-valve.
Faulty thermostats will give a CEL code 8/10 times. Since you do not have that code, and your cooling temps are being regulated fine, I am thinking the duo valve should be replaced. It can be either the duo valve or the auxiliary water pump that is bad. The auxiliary water pump is attached to the duo valve assembly. Makes the most sense to just replace the whole unit. Try a known good used replacement if you want to try and be sure but I’m about 85% sure the duo-valve is faulty.
kkg49 Name can be sent to M.S.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair Wine delivry is asking for your tel#.
How do change the coolant fan and where is the fan relay and fuse located
I don’t have a video showing how to replace the fan. These car’s fans are usually just held on by a few screws that hood the big plastic fan shroud to the radiator.
Here is a link to help with the fuse and relay locations: w220.wiki/Fuses
Hi Ricardo, Thanks for the video. I have an ML500, the auxiliary fan turns on and revs up as soon as I turn the engine on from cold. Would that be because of a bad temperature sensor too? Thanks.
Could be. Most likely a problem with the fan controller. Most are built into the fan unit.
Thanks for the video ..i have a problem the sensor stuck up and when i try to remove it its broken from plug side how to remove it now?😣
Jafar4f Jafar4f you will try some needle nose pliers. A set of picks may help also.
Здравствуйте. Тоже сломался? Как у вас получилось снять датчик?
Hello Sir my Mb 2002 e500 is stayinh cool like 50 60 degree and not warming up is it from the sensor or the thermostat
Boeno Noches Well seeing that the gauge is reading a temperature I would think that the sensor is doing just fine. The thermostat is probably stuck open. Do you get good heat inside the car? Does it take a long time for the temperature gauge to warm up?
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair It takes a long time for the car to warm up and its 60 70 85 degrees max the car is v8 500 and the temperature sometimes drops on a long road to 50 60 and the heat is not that good
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair I think i will watch the video and replace the stuck open thermostat by your help
Boeno Noches Replace the thermostat. It’s stuck open it seems.
Boeno Noches If you check my channel I show how to replace the thermostat housing on this engine.
Would this apply to a cl 500 2002
It should.
Thank for the video. Do you by any chance know the part number for coolant temperature sensor connector? My sensor is fine but the connector is totally broken. Thanks.
I don’t off hand. Check FCPEURO.com
Mine broke smooth off to the engine. any ideas how to get it out?
does the coolant need to be drained?
Yes. Well I was already working on the radiator on this car so mine was already drained.
I suppose if you’re fast enough, you could pop it out and slip the new one in. However you definitely will have coolant everywhere.
Hey, awesome video. Would you happen to know where the ECT sensor is on a 2013 CLS550 (w218) ? If the ECT sensor is faulty can it cause the fan to not kick in when its suppose to? Thank you.
It’s on the rear of the driver’s side cylinder head.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair Thanks for the quick response. By reading all the comments here based on Mercedes its normal to be at the temp of 90-100? I replaced the entire fan assembly it was making a very loud noise and hard to spin by hand also I was getting a temp gauge light. Now no more temp gauge light. Usually the temp is at 90, now 90 up to 95... Is the ECT sensor faulty? Air pockets in the system you think? or maybe cause I am here in Central FL and the weather is causing this? Thanks for you help just been trouble shooting this for the past two weeks.
90 is normal. 95-100* C in hotter ambient temp is normal. If it starts creeping above 100 I would start looking into a faulty fan, or faulty thermostat.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair Hello again, I wanted to ask how would I know the thermostat needs to be replaced? Just took the for a drive and it went to 100* and the ac was not blowing cold. Any ideas of what it could be ?
Check for proper fan operation. If you are sitting in traffic or at a light for a little while and the temp rises to 100* C that’s normally OK.
However since you say the ac is hot it leads me to believe that the Fan isn’t working.
Any advice if the sensor is stuck and the plastic is so brittle it breaks
Penetrating fluid and some patience. Lol honestly there isn’t an easy way. However you can get it.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair the plastic disintegrated and left the copper tube stuck. But an easy-out got the job done fairly easily. Thanks for the great video!
😊great job
1st time to the channel.. if the coolant sensor light is on could that cause the radiator fan to stay on and not cut off after I've cut the car off?
This would be best diagnosed by using a star Mercedes scanner (ie dealership or hood indy shop) or a shop capable of reading body modules and/or climate control modules. This will point you in the right direction.
In my experience with these cars, you should first make sure you don’t have a coolant leak and make sure the coolant reservoir is at the correct level. If it is and the coolant light is still on, then replace the coolant level sender on the coolant reservoir and see if the fan stops running.
If it still stays running, you’re problem is most likely the fan control module.
Is there a different location on W163? 2002 ML320
No. Your sensor is located right to the left (looking at the motor) of where the upper radiator hose goes into the engine.
ONE more question if I could....what is the torque spec for these sensors. THANKS again
rioraton honestly I am not sure of this. I have always tightened them down just snug enough for myself. Engines have torque specs for certain things. Some are critical pieces. A coolant sending unit really isn’t what you would call critical. Just tighten it until you feel comfortable. The point where you start to second guess “is it tight enough?” Is where you should stop.
I tightened it to 18 foot pounds same as my plugs? I am sure it is some where between 10-20 lbs . Thanks again.
Question. I have an 05 s500 4matic. Temperature gauge goes a little past halfway when sitting. Possibly thermostat replacement?
Do you have a check engine light on?
If you do, then get the code read. Autozone and Oreilly usually will check these for free. However given the current circumstances (COVID-19) they may not. If not you can buy a cheap OBD-2 scanner pretty much anywhere online nowadays. Harbor freight also has some cheap ones. As long as it can retrieve codes AND delete them.
If you DO NOT have codes AND the temperature goes up to around 95-100* C while sitting.That’s normal.
If it starts to climb above 105*C and keeps climbing, you either have a bad fan or a bad thermostat.
I did coolant flush job on my S430 4matic. Seem to be ok but I don't think I properly bleed the system as I am not getting hot air or other possibility is I may not have done the proper coolant dilution ratio from the concentrate I had. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks
Does that sensor control the cooling fan? I have a 2007 sl550 with sensor in thermostat housing.fan will run if you turn on ac but not on its own.i replaced the sensor on backside of engine and checked relays and fuses
Do you have a check engine light on now?
Good job
Mercedes Benz Videos thanks! Glad you found the video useful!
Hi, thanks for your guidance and video.
In Summer, my W210 cranked but not started engine. I replaced all spark plugs and a new battery, no improvement. Then I replaced crankshaft position sensors, the one at the back. Then it resume to normal. For safe, I also replaced the front camshaft position sensor. Every thing looks good.
In Winter, I found a little bit more 1-2 second while doing cold start. Once the engine is running for warm/hot. Turn off and turn on the enginee again, looking normal. So my situation is that - while doing cold start, it takes a little bit time and still can start.
Can you recommend the coolant temperature sensor be the root cause? I don't know whether this sensor is almost gone and required replacement.
This is a 2001 V6 facelift model, automatic transmission. Thanks again.
Was the crank sensor an OE Mercedes part? If not it possibly could be failing again. These things have a high failure rate in these Mercedes without giving a CEL.
I would check these things in order:
1. Crank sensor (again)
2. Camshaft sensor
3. Fuel pump
If the fuel pump is original then there is a chance that the fuel pressure regulator has gone bad and it is built into the pump. If it has failed, then fuel pressure is being lost as the car sits for a few hours or more. Then once you come back to start it the fuel pressure will need to be primed again before firing.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair Yes, they are OEM by Bosch. Thanks for your comment, I take a closer look to it. Or using a scan tool for any fault code.
My 2001 cl55 cooling fan is running al the time even if ac off do you think this sensor is the cause?
If you don’t have a check engine light on, probably not. Your fan controller maybe bad.
At what temperature should fan kick in ???
It’s completely computer controlled (PWM signal) they are operated through a range of speeds.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair thank you
No problem. I will say that if the fans aren’t coming on when you turn on the AC, you could have a problem with the fan. Also if the fans are not coming on by the time the temp reaches ~100 degrees Celsius, then you probably have a problem as well.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair thank you very much for the information.I’ll try it again soon . Fan was working ok then quit, got new one put it won’t kick in I test it directly with a battery in fan does work .
Is the car this same model?
Hey that’s where my senor is but my question is I’m driving clk 430 2000 is that air pump in same place on my car
It should be.
I have a 2000 S430 Benz I scan my car and P0115 would show up on my scanner I tried many times on replacing my sensor. My check engine light will pop back on-on a long distance ride. What do you think the problem is?
elmer ellis How many times have you replaced the part? Also what brand are they?
Helping Hand Auto Repair I go to auto zone. I've changed that coolant sensor about 5 to 6 times. I have been having the same issue since I bought that car in 2011. When I reset it. It depends on how many millages I drive to make that check engine light come on again.
elmer ellis Wow! Ok we can assume your new parts are in good working order.
1. you can test the resistance with a DVM (aka multi-meter) the reading will vary depending on the temperature of the sensor but a reading between 500-10k ohms should be fine. Anything above or below that will require to get a new sensor.
You will also need to check the wiring at the connector to make sure you have good wiring. When you look at the connector there will be two wires going into to it. There will be a ground wire which is normally black in most cases however it could be brown given that’s what most EURO cars tend to use as a ground color. The other wire will be some other color besides black or brown.
2. You will need to unplug the connector and turn the key to the ON POSITION (don’t start the car) then connect the red lead of the DVM to the positive battery terminal and the black lead to the ground pin (the black or brown wire) You should see battery voltage. If you don’t then you may have a broken wire somewhere back towards the ECM (most likely) or a bad ECM (unlikely)
3. Checking for 5v ECM reference power you will still leave the key in the ON POSITION (don’t start the car) then connect the black DVM lead to the ground pin (brown or black wire) and the red DVM lead to the reference pin (the other wire) you should see 5v of power now. If the step above passed then you most likely have a ECM problem.
Check into these wiring test and let me know what you find.
Helping Hand Auto Repair thanks man I'll let you know
Helping Hand Auto Repair you think i need a temperature sender/ sensor connector it has a brown wired connect. At the sensors
Hey is this the temperature sensor that why my dash is red saying low coolant in i just replaced my resovoir in put new coolant so now its has be the temperature sensor thanks alot w209 cLk 320
If it is saying low coolant, that sensor in your reservoir is most likely faulty. Or the wiring is bad.
Will this make the cooling fan work and the AC come on
It will allow to ECU to get the correct temperature to allow the fan to come on IF the engine is getting too hot. You could have an issue with the fan itself if it’s not coming on. It’s pretty common for these fans to fail.
Great video, thank you. I’ve a 2001 ML55 and I thought fan needed replacing. Car would overheat because fan not coming on. When I tested fan, it would come on momentarily and then turn off. Both new and old fan did same thing when connected. So could it be the thermostat sensor? Or what else could it be. Interior dashboard light comes on and off all the time. There’s no check engine light. Do you have any ideas please. Thank you for the great videos and for taking the time to respond.
Probably the fan control module. These are either built into the fan or attached to the fan shroud near the bottom of the car
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair Fan control module is located on the fan. Since I replaced the entire fan with a brand new unit, I figure it couldn't be the fan anymore because it is new.
When I plugged it in, the fan would momentarily come on and begin spinning for 10 seconds before turning off and coming to a stop. It did this on both the old and the new fan.
I tried unplugging it and plugging it back in but it would only occasionally start to spin before turning off again.
I am almost tempted to set up a direct power cable from the battery to the fan so i can just turn it on and off manually with a switch from inside the car!!!!!!!
Thanks so much for answering, I wish I could just solve this problem :)
Pls let me know if you have any other suggestions.
Cheers
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair Fan control module is located on the fan. Since I replaced the entire fan with a brand new unit, I figure it couldn't be the fan anymore because it is new.
When I plugged it in, the fan would momentarily come on and begin spinning for 10 seconds before turning off and coming to a stop. It did this on both the old and the new fan.
I tried unplugging it and plugging it back in but it would only occasionally start to spin before turning off again.
I am almost tempted to set up a direct power cable from the battery to the fan so i can just turn it on and off manually with a switch from inside the car!!!!!!!
Thanks so much for answering, I wish I could just solve this problem :)
Pls let me know if you have any other suggestions.
Cheers
Jamie Trent hello. I’m so very sorry for not reading your entire comment. I am coming clean for that. It’s just over the years when people refer to their Mercedes overheating, and I see the word “fan” somewhere, I immediately jump to the fan control module. Seeing that you have actually replaced this already, let me ask you a couple of questions to try and help you out:
1. Does the fan run when you turn on the AC?
2. Does your gauge cluster temperature operate correctly? When the temperature gets over 100 degrees C does the fan come on?
Hi is it normal for my 2004 Mercedes Benz s500 engine temperature gauge to be going up and down while I drive? It will never be going in the red zone but I was wondering if it was normal for the gauge to flauntate?
H L It is normal for these car’s temp gauges to fluctuate sometimes but it depends on how much it is moving. If it is moving beyond the 100C and up towards 120C you have a problem. Also if it rises pretty quickly while sitting (traffic, stop sign, stop light) and then immediately falls when you accelerate then you also have a problem.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair oh OK, so is it all European cars or just Benz? Since I had a BMW 325i and it did the same thing as well, while Acura never did that
H L Benz yes. BMW shouldn’t do that. Those should rise to the middle and pretty much stay rock solid. Of course I don’t know what year bmw you’re referring to.
Also let me clarify that Benz should warm up to normal operating temp and then stay relatively still unless sitting in traffic where the gauge could climb up to 100C but should never go up about that MOST of the time. If it does then you have a problem.
Excellent information
Thanks
How much coolant need buy for 2000 s430 if buying gallon ?
It depends on how much coolant you drained out of the system. If you just drained the radiator, I would get two gallons. If you drained more, you will need more.
Question what if the sensor rotten and came apart like the copper part leave in there
You gotta get all the old sensor out.
Excellent!
This is the same engine from 2000 clk430?
Manuel 510 Yes.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair thanks bro and where does the tamp should be?
Manuel 510 varies depending what n how hot it is outside. Normally between 90-110 Celsius
Thanks bro!!
Where u get the parts from ?
Fcpeuro.com
Hola!!muchas gracias por tu vide, no entiendo el ingles pero me e guiado por los comentarios (traduciéndolos)
Mi problema es en un mercedes clk 500 v8
Y es que pones el contacto y el ventilador se enciende a máxima velocidad
Arranca sin problema,pero el ventilador queda encendido todo el tiempo
La temperatura se queda en la mitad (no se sobrecalienta)
Pero el ventilador esta encendido todo el tiempo
Ayuda por favor
Would a bad sensor cause the fan to kick on when I turn on my car? It’s a S430
It could. Need to scan for codes. A Star scanner would be best
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair thank you I’ll look into a scanner
@@esiquiodelgadillo2760 Hey, did you every find out what the issue was? I having an issue where I think my fan is not coming on when its suppose to. Did you replace the sensor? Thanks
Question what’s the white plastic line called
Sou K looks like it is apart of the EVAP system. If it is cracked you can take what you need to a parts store and have them match it up.
Question I have a clk 55(also has the m113) yesterday when I tried to start it from a cold start the car started but the engine fan was on high speed immediately. I shut the car off and tried starting it again, it would not start and the engine fan kept blowing at high speed. Check coolent temp and visit workshop warning came on. Could this be symptoms of a failed temp sensor? As I mentioned this is from a cold start so there's no way the engine was hot or overheating.
Revino Theron First scan for codes. The ECU controls the fan speed. It will run it on high if it cannot determine the engine temp, or if it thinks you need max AC cooling. If all of that is working properly, check the wiring to the fan to make sure it's not broken and is securely plugged in and not corroded. If all that is good, then it probably is a bad control module on the fan itself.
I have an 03 E500 I have replaced the engine temp sensor, t-stat, and Radiator coolant temp gauge will max out not long after car starts. The coolant temp on the scan tool reads perfect so not sure what’s wrong with the cluster temp gauge need help?
Do you have a check engine light light on?
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair yeah check engine light is on but only codes stored are O2 sensor codes nothing at all with coolant temp. Also watching the Data pids and coolant temp cycles are around 90C-94C and cooling fan cycles like it should.
Well if you can confirm that the SCANNER is reading the correct temp (you can verify with an IR heat gun on a radiator hose) then likely your cluster gauge is wrong.
Thank you I have a 2000 ml 430
Also make sure that the O ring on the old sensor comes out. If it’s old it might get stuck in the housing. Use your pick to fish it out. Also make sure that your new sensor has an O ring on it.
you saved me, hero o7
If I replaced the sensor and still get the p0115 error code what should I check next ?
Peter Lawrence Hello, scroll down to TH-cam user Elmer in these comments. I have responded to the same question.
Thx!!
If the coolant sensor is not all the way in will the car overheat
It will give you faulty coolant readings on the gauge. If it’s not into the block completely, it will leak coolant. If the connector isn’t seated fully, you will get erroneous gauge readings.
It will give you faulty coolant readings on the gauge. If it’s not into the block completely, it will leak coolant. If the connector isn’t seated fully, you will get erroneous gauge readings.
It will give you faulty coolant readings on the gauge. If it’s not into the block completely, it will leak coolant. If the connector isn’t seated fully, you will get erroneous gauge readings.
It will give you faulty coolant readings on the gauge. If it’s not into the block completely, it will leak coolant. If the connector isn’t seated fully, you will get erroneous gauge readings.
It will give you faulty coolant readings on the gauge. If it’s not into the block completely, it will leak coolant. If the connector isn’t seated fully, you will get erroneous gauge readings.
I have an s430 and I have no heat whatsoever, could this be my problem? Thanks in advance.
auck1969 No, you could have a climate control head unit problem or a blend door actuator problem.
Check the electric auxiliary water pump, will be located close to the expansion tank in most Mercedes
hey thanks for the video , the problem i'm having is steam is coming from the driver side of the motor , like a pressure relief valve letting off pressure. Not sure what it is, it blow off and stop and does it again in couple minutes. I would like to sent you the video to get you advise.
did you ever find out what that was
I need help my fan is not working still replace it and put a new radiator in it’s a 2006 CL500 any tips would be helpful thanks
stephanie salazar Does your ac work?
Can this be why my radiator fan not coming on even when i activate the ac the fan dnt come on. The car dont overheat but the temp goes up when im in traffic stopped like it wants over heat but the fan never turns on it goes down when im driving.
Fan could be bad. This sensor is for the gauge you see on the cluster.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair it finally seen thr fan come on but not at 80 on the temp cluster guage. comes on a little past the half temp guage around 90 95 degress i feel like that it should always be at 80 mid mark right?
These fans are designed to come on around 94.5 C
So if it’s turning on around then, that’s normal.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair thanks for replying back
I just got a 1995 e420 and it's blowing out heat on the two outside vents and front dash defrost while AC is on. Only the middle vents are blowing out cold air.
Please advise? Thanks
The car in this video is definitely not a 1995 e420.
Your car is an old system. It is electromechanical. There are many things that are probably old now.
You should first check the duo-valve course n your car to make sure that it is functioning correctly.
How can I put the coolant into the reservoir
You open it up and pour it in
i have mersedez s 430 the engine fan turns on only when ihave ac on could u tell me what could be the problem?
It is supposed to turn on when you turn the ac on.
Are you having overheating issues?
My temperature gauge 98 when it's very hot in Texas but the fans I'm not sure what temperature turns on by itself
Does it go higher than 98 degrees? The fans are computer controlled. They usually will come on around 97-98 degree Centigrade. It is normal for the car to reach around 100 degrees C and sit there in hot outside temperatures.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair the highest temperature of scene 99 without ac on idont normally use ac beacus I only drive 12 MI ady but I'm not sure the fan turns on or not automatically but I'll check it out tomorrow because we're going to have another hot day in Texas thanks for all your help I'll keep in touch
If it gets to 99-100 that’s normal range. If it’s 90+ degrees outside then that’s perfectly normal. If the temp starts climbing above 105 + then I would make sure the fans are coming on.
My w220 s500 is throwing a coolant light visit work shop I thought it might be the coolant reservoir sensor but I had my heat off from a cold start and let it get to regular temp 80 then waited 5 mins after and turned on the heat and got the coolant light visit workshop could this be because of thermostat? I live in Wisconsin and its below freezing any ideas why I'm getting the light? And when I'm in idle with the heat going my temp goes above 80 on the dash goes to like 90 almost 100 any suggestions would be greatly appreciated
Kotalrw Temperature gauge going up to 100 is perfectly normal. When it starts creeping up above 100 is when I would worry. Check the coolant reservoir next time before starting the car and see if it is low.
what about Coolant temp. sensor on 1994 S420 MB I'm not sure of the location
That will be under the plastic cover. On the front of the engine. There should be three sensors on the top of the motor in the front. The sensor all the way to the LEFT (as you are looking at the engine) is the coolant temp sensor for the gauge inside the car. It should be a single pin connector.
I have the "Add Coolant" message and I looked at the coolant level in my car and its full. Changing the Temperature Sensor, will that correct the problem?
Wendy Turner No there is a sensor that measures the level of the coolant inside the expansion tank (the plastic tank that you add coolant to) you need to check the level of the coolant after the car has been sitting for awhile (overnight is best) while it is completely cold. If it is low, add coolant. If it is full then your coolant level sensor is most likely faulty under the expansion tank. It just unclips and twist it sideways and it should pull out.
Part number: 005923081
@@HelpingHandAutoRepairwill this work on a gl450....thank you us older women need more diy videos ;
Hello I own a Chrysler Crossfire it is made by Mercedes it has the 3.2 liter v6 Mercedes engine. My yellow warning light on the dash showing coolant level came on out of the blue cause after the car sat a few days the coolant is at normal level and temp gauge is right in the middle normal level it heats up and the coolant is right up to the plastic level inside the coolant overflow jug. Can you advise me what it could be. I see there is a sensor at the bottom of the coolant jug and I took it out and shook the sensor and bypassed the wire to see if the light would go out it is still on. thank you for any advice to have it shut off
In my experience with many Mercedes coolant level sensors. They fail. All the time. I’d replace it
Most of the Mercedes switches have a built in resistor to tell when the circuit has been shorted or is open. In your case shorted (jumping the wires)
I’m pretty sure your sensor is built into the reservoir with a float inside it. You can take the reservoir off the car and test it in your house with a voltmeter set to ohms. It is a very small reading but pretty much you can find a way to cap off the holes so nothing can come out.
After doing that leave the bottle empty and check the resistance on the sensor. It should be a low reading. Have someone fill the bottle slowly to the full mark and notice a rise in ohms. If it rises then the sensor should be working fine. If it shows open or “OL” at some point then replace it.
Where is the Ambient air temperature sensor located
On a 2006 mercedes s500.
It is located on the driver side (USA CAR) of the car. If you jack up the car and look just under the radiator. There will be a sensor that is clipped into the front grille area. That is the outside air temp sensor.
w220.ee/images/1/1a/W220_temperature_sensor_inside_bumper.jpg
Well my macanic just put a new thermostat in however hmm i was thinking this started to happen when he put the knew one on is it even possible for that to happen?
kenny glover Depending on how recent that was he could have not bled the system correctly. There could be air bubbles in the system. Alternatively the radiator fan could not be working as well. If you can do so, drive the car around and let it get up to temp. Then park the car turn OFF the AC and let it idle. Watch the temp. As the temp rises pay attention to the fan and see if it comes on. 100 should be about max it should hit while sitting. Maybe 102ish but going over that the fans should definitely be on. If the fans come on and the temp still rises or doesn’t fall then I suspect a faulty thermostat.
Yes sir good deal ill try this in the morning thanks bro fill u in on what it does
kenny glover I think we are talking in two comments. I mentioned before if the temp is going to the line between 80 and 120 then that’s completely normal.
How can you test this sensor?
Either they work or they don’t. You normally will get a check engine light on if they fail. You may sometimes also get an erroneous gauge reading.
Could this possibly cause my obdii monitors not to set? Just failed smog because obd monitors won't set. My engine temp never gets over 80C.
Robear Le Is your check engine light on? If so then you will fail smog.
No check engine light, sir.
Robear Le I assume you’re in California? If so you need to invest in a scanner to see what monitors are not set yet as there is a certain drive cycle for every manufacturer. You’re only allowed the EVAP monitor to be incomplete for your car.
please i have c230 v6 I needs coolant temperature sensor where is it located?
If you have the M272 engine (you should) the coolant temp sensor is located behind the engine. If you are looking at the engine (standing in front of the car) the sensor is located on the right cylinder head on the back under the crank sensor. Check out this link below:
www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Mercedes-W204/37-WATER-Coolant_Temperature_Sensor_Replacement/37-WATER-Coolant_Temperature_Sensor_Replacement.htm
how about on an 2003 s55
Same engine. Same spot.
My research has lead me to believe that my 2010 ML 63 AMG is having the same problem. I get a check engine light during the summer months but I never get one during the winter months. I also noticed the my Engine coolant fan has never come on either during the summer. When I put the diagnostic tool on the car to trouble shoot the issue it generated a p code that tracked back to a fuel Rail sensor. That has been changed twice but never fixed the issue. I was able to start the fan using the diagnostic tool however it has yet to engage while I’m driving during the summer months. So I have narrowed it down to the engine coolant temperature sensor. I read that if this sensor goes bad that one of the symptoms is that it will generate a Check Engine Light.
What scanner are you using? A faulty ECT sensor would usually generate a code. Also, what are the ambient temps in your area?
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair I used the Creader VIII ODB code reader. It produced a p0189 code which gives a Fuel Temperature Sensor. I believe that there is one one the Fuel Rail and one in the fuel tank. I have changed the fuel rail temperature sensor 3 times and it hasn’t fixed the problem. Maybe its the one in the fuel tank. Not sure of the ambient air temps however when it is hot and or muggy the check engine light will eventually come on. I haven’t monitored my gas mileage when the light is on but acceleration feels different. I accelerate hard just to see how the car reacts and it will react diffferent at times meaning I would have to give it more throttle at times to make it accelerate the same as if the light wasn’t on.
Where do you live? What type of climate? Is there high humidity?
P0189 is fuel circuit B. This is the fuel tank sensor. Replacing the rail sensor won’t help. You need to replace the fuel tank sensor.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair Yes I live in Washington DC area. Lots of hot humid weather during the summer months. I knew you would have something for me! I will replace that. I think this requires droping the fuel tank and going inside to make this repair. I’ll check with Mercedes to see what that would cost.
Just looked back at some old notes and it was P0191 code coming from the OBD reader. SO maybe its a different issue.
Why the top radiator hose is hot and the bottom hose is cold on my s430 Mercedes Benz?
Brenaie Bonner bad thermostat
Thank you so much for this response!
Your video was very helpful..I tried what you said on the video..I replaced the sensor because the temp was showing over 100 and it keep going up until it reached the red mark!
I thought it was the sensor but this keeps happening..
So I will be buying a thermostat today...
Thank you again...
Sigh...I changed the thermostat!
Temp still going up too 100 and to the red zone..
Any other option?
Brenaie Bonner The temp going to 100 is perfectly normal for these cars. If it starts creeping up past 100 INTO the red then yes there is an issue.
First you need to make sure that your warm up the car completely. Take it for a 10-15 mins drive around town. NOT on the freeway. Bring it home and let it idle for 5 mins or so. Check to see if the upper and lower hoses are roughly the same temperature when you touch them. If they are then the thermostat is working just fine. If they aren’t then you have a bad thermostat (brand new parts can fail out of the box)
If the hose are the same temp when you touch them and the temperature stills climbs into the red zone then you need to make sure that the electric fan is turning on. If it is not then most likely there is your reason for the temperature climbing into the red zone.
Brenaie Bonner if the fan isn’t turning on make sure you check the fuses related to that fan and don’t just go out and buy one right away. These fans have a controller that sometimes goes bad even though the fan works just fine. Just let me know.
Thanks for the reply nah its not exactly going to 120 but definitely headed that way then i push it to 70 on interstate it will go back down to 80 but my coolant light recently came on first time i have seen that however its full and not leaking
kenny glover So it warms up while sitting is what I’m getting. Then once you started driving faster the temp goes back down? Are you checking the reservoir when the car has cooled down completely? That is when you need to check it.
I have a hunch your thermostat might be bad. Check very closely for coolant leaks. They leave white residue behind when it has leaked and dried up. Check my channel under Chrysler Sebring and you can see the dried up coolant.
Hello I have a 2014 cla250 and the temperature guage keeps going from 80 to 120 but never gets to the red line and the car has the coolant water normal and the check engine light is Not on so what could it be? Could it be the Sensor or Thermostat ? 🤔 🤷
If you are regularly seeing 120 *C then you should consider replacing the thermostat. 120 is high.
how do you delete the warning light?
With a scanner
my fan radiator not work after i wash this area of sensor and around of fan ..whats the problem ..is this sensor the reason
KAHLED taj No this sensor is for the gauge temp reading. The fan control module is located around the fan/radiator area. You may have soaked it in water.
Is this what I need to do if my car keeps saying check coolant
Joe Chance I assume you refill the coolant when it says low coolant right? If so and it goes off and comes back then you have one of two problems:
1. A coolant leak
2. Coolant being consumed by the engine.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair it's never went off . And car never runs hot . I just want the dash cleared
Joe Chance ok in that case you most likely have a bad coolant level sensor. What year and model is your car?
Helping Hand Auto Repair hey what’s the other option ? I have a gl450 and it’s reading po116 code
That is a code for a bad coolant temperature sensor. You need to replace it.
Is this the reason why my ml320 2003 Mercedes temp gauge is going from 80 up towards 120 then back down to 80 just keeps this same routine ran 🔥 only 1 time on my wife not myself but i dont like this routine up down?
kenny glover How fast is it moving up to 120? Does it move up to 120 while sitting still (stoplight, traffic) and then go back down when moving?
Helping Hand Auto Repair my 2001 s500 is throwing a coolant light and the temp gauge rises when at idle (stopped or in traffic) what could be causing that any ideas?
Nah it doesn't move up to 120 sitting still but if i have been running for a while sitting still it moves passed 80 headed toward 120 then almost midway near 120
kenny glover so it gets to the line between 80 and 120 correct? And never goes above that?