That was simple and concise without all the muck in other videos. Thanks so much for posting! Can you post a video on applying veneer to irregular surfaces?
Nice work. I need to try veneer some drum shells using a similar method, but obviously a much tighter radius (shells are 12" dia to 16" dia.) Did you use veneer with a paper backing, or raw veneer ? I would think raw veneer might be too prone to split along the grain especially with the grain running vertically rather than around the curve!
I used veneer without any paper backing. Some veneer is more brittle than others. Oak veneer has more potential to break whereas birch is more stable. A 12" diameter isn't too tight for veneering. You can dry fit your veneer to test how well it bends before gluing it up. Just be sure to use solvent-based contact cement as the water-based may warp the veneer. Does that help?
I'm working on a table base that has both gentle concave and convex curves. Your methods will work well on the convex curves. But I've been unable to find videos of similar applications on the convex curve. I'd like to try the method you show. But I'm concerned the flat iron will be ineffective. If all else fails I'll give it a try on a scrap piece but if you have any insight I'd be grateful.
I don't recall using a flat iron in this video. Using contact cement will work on convex and concave shapes. You just need to be careful as you lay down the veneer. I hope that helps. Scott
No videos on that. There won't be any problem installing veneer that direction. It comes in rolls that are rolled up that way. I hope that helps. Scott
I need to hide some bad corner (joints) on a picture frame, so I will apply elm burl patches.....BUT...the frame has some curvature to it and was wondering if contact cement will "loosen" the veneer enough to bend over the curvature...not an extreme curves and the patches are about 2" x 2"...any suggestions and thanks ahead of time....
No, contact cement will not make the veneer any more flexible to bend it. You may want to consider using liquid hide glue for patching. You will need a caul to clamp the patches in place. From what you're describing, this sounds like a difficult repair. I suggest watching @johnsonrestoration th-cam.com/users/johnsonrestoration as Tom has some good videos on patching veneer with hide glue. Scott
@@HomeImprovementWoodworking As it turned out, I soaked the veneer in warm water until it was bendable a little bit. I then daubed the veneer to take up all the excess water and then placed the veneer on the curvature part of the frame and taped it down as tightly as possible. I let it sit for a couple of days to let the moisture evaporate and then removed the tape and the veneer held the shape of the curvature. I then contact cemented the veneer patch (2”x2”) to the frame corners and Viola! It worked! And it came out great! As a side note, the curvature on the corners of the frame was not extreme, but gentle enough to warrant this action. Thanks for your video - nice work.
It depends on what the piece is made of and how old it is. If it's an antique, use hide glue. That's the easiest repair, otherwise it gets more complex than I can explain here. If you'd like a video call, we offer advice services - woodenitbenice.ca/collections/woodworking-advice-sessions
That was simple and concise without all the muck in other videos. Thanks so much for posting! Can you post a video on applying veneer to irregular surfaces?
Thanks for your comments. The next time I'm veneering an irregular surface, I will be sure to film it! Cheers
thanks so much ... you've made me feel far less intimidated about tackling some repairs I have to do
Rebecca Witmer thanks for the feedback. I'm happy you found it helpful
Very nice
Glad you like it Paul. Scott
Good, helpful info. Thank you.
You're welcome! Glad you found it useful. Scott
Good video, very helpful
Nice work. I need to try veneer some drum shells using a similar method, but obviously a much tighter radius (shells are 12" dia to 16" dia.) Did you use veneer with a paper backing, or raw veneer ? I would think raw veneer might be too prone to split along the grain especially with the grain running vertically rather than around the curve!
I used veneer without any paper backing. Some veneer is more brittle than others. Oak veneer has more potential to break whereas birch is more stable. A 12" diameter isn't too tight for veneering. You can dry fit your veneer to test how well it bends before gluing it up. Just be sure to use solvent-based contact cement as the water-based may warp the veneer. Does that help?
Good work
Thank you! Cheers!
I'm working on a table base that has both gentle concave and convex curves. Your methods will work well on the convex curves. But I've been unable to find videos of similar applications on the convex curve. I'd like to try the method you show. But I'm concerned the flat iron will be ineffective. If all else fails I'll give it a try on a scrap piece but if you have any insight I'd be grateful.
I don't recall using a flat iron in this video. Using contact cement will work on convex and concave shapes. You just need to be careful as you lay down the veneer. I hope that helps. Scott
What are the times for each step, what ciment glue used and with no pressing clamps were used?
Follow the directions on the contact cement you purchase. Contact cement does not require clamping. I hope that helps. Scott
Any videos on doing it when the grain direction is round the circumference? Does it need steaming?
No videos on that. There won't be any problem installing veneer that direction. It comes in rolls that are rolled up that way. I hope that helps. Scott
How do you calculate the space so you won't hit the board when cutting?
Sorry, I don't understand your question. Would you give me more detail? Scott
I need to hide some bad corner (joints) on a picture frame, so I will apply elm burl patches.....BUT...the frame has some curvature to it and was wondering if contact cement will "loosen" the veneer enough to bend over the curvature...not an extreme curves and the patches are about 2" x 2"...any suggestions and thanks ahead of time....
No, contact cement will not make the veneer any more flexible to bend it. You may want to consider using liquid hide glue for patching. You will need a caul to clamp the patches in place. From what you're describing, this sounds like a difficult repair. I suggest watching @johnsonrestoration th-cam.com/users/johnsonrestoration as Tom has some good videos on patching veneer with hide glue. Scott
@@HomeImprovementWoodworking As it turned out, I soaked the veneer in warm water until it was bendable a little bit. I then daubed the veneer to take up all the excess water and then placed the veneer on the curvature part of the frame and taped it down as tightly as possible. I let it sit for a couple of days to let the moisture evaporate and then removed the tape and the veneer held the shape of the curvature. I then contact cemented the veneer patch (2”x2”) to the frame corners and Viola! It worked! And it came out great! As a side note, the curvature on the corners of the frame was not extreme, but gentle enough to warrant this action. Thanks for your video - nice work.
I have a tall narrow shelving unit with mahogany veneer. The top is curved and on the edge has pulled up. How can I repair this veneer?
It depends on what the piece is made of and how old it is. If it's an antique, use hide glue. That's the easiest repair, otherwise it gets more complex than I can explain here. If you'd like a video call, we offer advice services - woodenitbenice.ca/collections/woodworking-advice-sessions
What did you use to trim the veneer?
I used a small router with a flush trim bit
What is the tool you used to cut the ovelapped veneer?
A sharp knife and a square. Does that answer your question? Scott
@@HomeImprovementWoodworking Thank you.