Thank you! I woke up at 3 in the morning today to a freezing house. It’s 25 below zero right now and was imperative that I get this going asap. This was a quick and easy fix. We are now warming back up thanks to this video. Josh
Randy, I want you to know what kind of impact your videos have. I have a 8 week old baby and a momma on leave right now. Funds are tight. Your video allowed me to service my furnace and actually fix it. I appreciate the videos you create.
Thank you so much This happened every year and I had to paraprofessional fix-it your TH-cam video and showed me how to fix it myself save me so much money thank you very much awesome job I also love that your video was very short timing it wasn’t a 30 minute video it was simple it was quick it was understandable again thank you so much
I did indeed have a spider in that orifice but unfortunately removing it did not fix my issue. I am getting a slight glow on the igniter, but it really doesn’t look as bright as yours in the video. No flame of course. Not sure what to do next?
Could a spider get into a much smaller orifice? I'm having an intermittent "weak flame" issue with my Nordyne M1M, which is very similar to this one, except it's set up for LP gas.
Do the Nordyne M1M furnaces not have a flame sensor? I was wondering if that might be my problem, but don't see any videos showing where it is - and nothing looks like one to me so far.
On nordyne M1M furnaces the igniter is the flame sensor. They found that sometimes the igniter is not angled enough into the flame to get a positive reading. Sometimes GENTLY bending that into the end of the burner pipe helps. You can also GENTLY with a small brush off any sort off the igniter. Sometimes the only fix is replacement but first make sure it is a strong flame before blaming the igniter/flame sensor
@@randydolph852 Well that explains why I couldn't find it! Okay I'll give that a try. Thanks! Another thing I'm wondering though - would I still get the limit switch open error blink if the igniter was the problem? Prior to me asking the above comment - I had replaced both limit switches (aux one was "compatible" but not exact replacement - not sure if that matters). The furnace ran nicely for about a week and then back to the short cycles and open LS error code. But it isn't always blinking when it short cycles so that's why I thought maybe it was something else. Flame does seem strong when it was "allowed" to fire. idk if there's any more to offer there - but thank you anyway for answering above. : - )
It worked like a charm!! Problem is, the HVAC company didn't put a screw back in, i didn't notice until i took it off. There seems to be a small gap, but it would have been there since last year right? No issues but i don't trust myself. Any info?
Hello, depends on which screw of course. Some brackets have more screws and one missing is not the end of the world but the ‘gap’ does not sound good. Where is the gap?
@randydolph852 it's impossible to get to unless you take that whole thing apart and i have no idea how up do it. To me, it looks like all 1 molded piece that would need to be completely replaced before you can get that screw in. Wish I could add pictures here
Sorry no, however, it is as easy as taking off the gas line, disconnecting the bracket from the old valve (unscrewing it) and then reversing all those.
The combustion air (inducer motor) fan will run, it’s the one that starts first, that will run even with a bad igniter. The main blower motor doesn’t come on until the flame has been on for a while. Sequence of operations, a) thermostat calls for heat, b) inducer motor comes on and closer pressure switch, c) control board reads ‘closed pressure switch’ and igniter comes on, d) power is given to valve and gas flood heat exchanger (flame), e) then main blower comes on. Every one of these actions is timed by relays on the circuit board, the clicking sounds you hear. Thanks for the questions
My daughter has a Revolv M1M, the burner goes out when the blower comes on. the serviceman charged nearly $400 only changed the ignitor and couldn't fix the problem. Temps are in the single digits. Any help would be appreciated.
Sounds like a weak flame. I went through everything on my furnace and the last part I checked was the gas valve. Took the orifice off and cleaned it out with shop vac. It didn’t look dirty but apparently it was . I reinstalled it after cleaning it and furnace runs great now.
I have that exact furnace but the status codes and cover are gone. My flame light flickers, fan squeaks a small amount on start and when it shuts off. Weak flame? And how in the world do you clean and oil the fan?
I wonder how many people have had their heater replaced because of this stupid spider issue. I was almost one of them. I want to know just how do spiders get in the gas line? How do they breathe? My spider issue happened when I converted from propane to Nat gas in 2017. It happened again late 2022 when it started to recycle itself. Gas lines were not disturbed. I think because propane gas is at higher pressure it forced it's way thru the web (there was a small in it). Now the heater roars like never before giving me plenty of heat. Previously in the winter the heater would run for a long time.
It is odd that the spider survives in such a place. I’ve hardly seen a spider in a propane converted furnace, mostly, I theorize as the hole in the orifice for propane is too small. I like the theory of higher pressure shooting it out as well. The only access to the chamber is where the wires for the ignitor are and throw the roof. Never have seen one go in but it’s got to get in from one of those. Thanks for the reply
@@randydolph852 Thanks for replying. Had another thought; When gas pipe is installed, pipe dope is used, Teflon tape is not allowed. Maybe the residual goo is forced inside the connection and exposed to the gas, erodes slowly but when it's restricted by the nozzle it collects into a film. Just spit ballin' here.
So I have the same furnace at my house but it starts heats up the flame lights then in about 8 to 10 seconds the flame dies out and then it trys agen and just keeps doing that what could ve my problem if you could help
Often that is the ignitor. The ignitor also acts as the flame sensor on this model. Sometimes the ignitor builds up some soot. CAREFULLY brush off that soot would help. Or it could be not in the flame enough as it gets older it gets a little weaker. Again, CAREFULLY bend the metal bracket just a little to move it so it will be more into the flame. You could very easily break it this way so please be careful. It definitely sounds like an ignitor issue but could be an air intake our exhaust. Check roof Jack for obstruction. 99.9% chance it’s the former.
That would not penetrate the threads and may get into the valve. I would not use any lubricants for it nor do you use thread sealant when putting it back on. Using the correct wrench size is always best. I have had to use channel locks however when they have been stripped. Thanks for the question
It is okay to take that whole fitting off. If you do take the whole piece off at the threaded piece of the valve you will need thread sealant when putting it back on. Sometimes those orifices are a pain.
When you took the orifice out did it have a clog in it? Are you able to check to see if, once the igniter comes on, does 24 volts come down to the valve? Are you sure you are getting gas to the valve? I often loosen the gas connection and check for pressure. There is a Allen wrench nut on the valve where you can check pressure in from supply but you need a tester to tell you if that is correct. If you have gas to the valve and are getting 24 volts after igniter comes on for about ten seconds, then it sounds like bad valve. Make sure you are getting that 24 volts as I’ve seen it be a bad circuit board not supplying the valve. Note if you are getting to a glowing igniter you are passed the pressure system so don’t look for problems there.
@randy I’m getting no blinking light. Only the blower fan kicks on if I turn the thermostat to the fan on position. I’ve changed the control board, and igniter. I was checking voltage on the igniter wire and the pressure system motor kicked on. Still nothing when I put it on auto and try to start the furnace.
Awww poor spider lol Well it's the me or the spider so Im game. My set up looks exactly like that. I have four red blinking lights so apparently it's the ignitor. The flame comes on and it's pretty strong. And then the whole system shuts off after two minutes. .It's set on AUTO HEAT @ 70 degrees. Seems like it wanted to warm up but it shut off by itself. Any ideas? Its going to be 30 tonight and My space heaters keep blowing the fuses. Thank you for your video!
Sorry for the late reply. It may be something to do with the flame sensor. On intertherm/nordyne furnaces the sensor is the igniter. Clean the ignitor, when cool. I usually use a soft toothbrush, SUPER lightly. When the furnace goes off, you’d need to know what the flash code say.
I replaced my ignition switch and I'm wondering if I hooked the lose wires to it backwards into the white wiring harness? It didn't come connected in the parts box...and my furnace still doesn't work..😪😪😪
Hello, usually that is the flame sensor, which on this exact model doubles aS the igniter. Clean the ignitor gently with a small paintbrush then carefully bend the ignitor bracket so that it moved the tip of the ignitor into the flame where it leaves the big tube. Thanks for the reply.
It could be. This is a ignition failure issue. Make sure to check the igniter for continuity. Hope you got it working by now. Does the igniter come on and then a clicking sound is heard and either small or no flame? Then this is the potential problem. If no igniter comes on and then it starts flashing ignition failure then focus more o; the ignitor
![แฉกลโกงงานวัด 2024 [ โกงมั้ยครับ ep.106 ] | DOM](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/taC5dpP3HXA/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you! I woke up at 3 in the morning today to a freezing house. It’s 25 below zero right now and was imperative that I get this going asap. This was a quick and easy fix. We are now warming back up thanks to this video.
Josh
Randy, I want you to know what kind of impact your videos have. I have a 8 week old baby and a momma on leave right now. Funds are tight. Your video allowed me to service my furnace and actually fix it. I appreciate the videos you create.
Thanks so much for that. It really helps me to hear that.
Thank you so much This happened every year and I had to paraprofessional fix-it
your TH-cam video and showed me how to fix it myself save me so much money thank you very much awesome job
I also love that your video was very short timing it wasn’t a 30 minute video it was simple it was quick it was understandable again thank you so much
Dude you rock. Thanks a bunch. Very professional video. Well done sir. You helped me a ton
Very cool! So glad to help. Thanks for the comment
Are you able to adjust the gas pressure on these type of units?
Thanks for your helpful videos!!
I did indeed have a spider in that orifice but unfortunately removing it did not fix my issue. I am getting a slight glow on the igniter, but it really doesn’t look as bright as yours in the video. No flame of course. Not sure what to do next?
Is it normal for the gas valve to click multiple times before flame ignites? Thank you
Could a spider get into a much smaller orifice? I'm having an intermittent "weak flame" issue with my Nordyne M1M, which is very similar to this one, except it's set up for LP gas.
Do the Nordyne M1M furnaces not have a flame sensor? I was wondering if that might be my problem, but don't see any videos showing where it is - and nothing looks like one to me so far.
That's what I'm wondering? I wish this guy would answer the questions.....lol
On nordyne M1M furnaces the igniter is the flame sensor. They found that sometimes the igniter is not angled enough into the flame to get a positive reading. Sometimes GENTLY bending that into the end of the burner pipe helps. You can also GENTLY with a small brush off any sort off the igniter. Sometimes the only fix is replacement but first make sure it is a strong flame before blaming the igniter/flame sensor
@@randydolph852 Well that explains why I couldn't find it! Okay I'll give that a try. Thanks!
Another thing I'm wondering though - would I still get the limit switch open error blink if the igniter was the problem? Prior to me asking the above comment - I had replaced both limit switches (aux one was "compatible" but not exact replacement - not sure if that matters). The furnace ran nicely for about a week and then back to the short cycles and open LS error code. But it isn't always blinking when it short cycles so that's why I thought maybe it was something else. Flame does seem strong when it was "allowed" to fire. idk if there's any more to offer there - but thank you anyway for answering above. : - )
It worked like a charm!!
Problem is, the HVAC company didn't put a screw back in, i didn't notice until i took it off. There seems to be a small gap, but it would have been there since last year right? No issues but i don't trust myself. Any info?
Hello, depends on which screw of course. Some brackets have more screws and one missing is not the end of the world but the ‘gap’ does not sound good. Where is the gap?
@randydolph852 upper right corner of the plate. The whole gas inlet and I'm guessing regulator thing is in the way
@randydolph852 it's impossible to get to unless you take that whole thing apart and i have no idea how up do it. To me, it looks like all 1 molded piece that would need to be completely replaced before you can get that screw in. Wish I could add pictures here
I don't have the flex line they used piping. How do i get that out?
How do I adjust pressure on this unit? There is no adjustment screw under any of the caps
Do you have a video on how to replace the entire control valve?
Sorry no, however, it is as easy as taking off the gas line, disconnecting the bracket from the old valve (unscrewing it) and then reversing all those.
Thanku😊😊
Thank you, problem solved.
So my igniter is on but the flames don’t turn on if that makes sense
Just wonder if the igniter fail, will the fan motor still run?
The combustion air (inducer motor) fan will run, it’s the one that starts first, that will run even with a bad igniter. The main blower motor doesn’t come on until the flame has been on for a while. Sequence of operations, a) thermostat calls for heat, b) inducer motor comes on and closer pressure switch, c) control board reads ‘closed pressure switch’ and igniter comes on, d) power is given to valve and gas flood heat exchanger (flame), e) then main blower comes on. Every one of these actions is timed by relays on the circuit board, the clicking sounds you hear. Thanks for the questions
My daughter has a Revolv M1M, the burner goes out when the blower comes on. the serviceman charged nearly $400 only changed the ignitor and couldn't fix the problem. Temps are in the single digits. Any help would be appreciated.
Have same issue. Revolv as well
Sounds like a weak flame. I went through everything on my furnace and the last part I checked was the gas valve. Took the orifice off and cleaned it out with shop vac. It didn’t look dirty but apparently it was . I reinstalled it after cleaning it and furnace runs great now.
I have that exact furnace but the status codes and cover are gone. My flame light flickers, fan squeaks a small amount on start and when it shuts off. Weak flame? And how in the world do you clean and oil the fan?
If it's blinking once, the error is "limit switch open" but as you can see above I'm looking in to other possibilities.
I wonder how many people have had their heater replaced because of this stupid spider issue. I was almost one of them. I want to know just how do spiders get in the gas line? How do they breathe? My spider issue happened when I converted from propane to Nat gas in 2017. It happened again late 2022 when it started to recycle itself. Gas lines were not disturbed. I think because propane gas is at higher pressure it forced it's way thru the web (there was a small in it). Now the heater roars like never before giving me plenty of heat. Previously in the winter the heater would run for a long time.
It is odd that the spider survives in such a place. I’ve hardly seen a spider in a propane converted furnace, mostly, I theorize as the hole in the orifice for propane is too small. I like the theory of higher pressure shooting it out as well. The only access to the chamber is where the wires for the ignitor are and throw the roof. Never have seen one go in but it’s got to get in from one of those. Thanks for the reply
@@randydolph852 Thanks for replying. Had another thought; When gas pipe is installed, pipe dope is used, Teflon tape is not allowed. Maybe the residual goo is forced inside the connection and exposed to the gas, erodes slowly but when it's restricted by the nozzle it collects into a film. Just spit ballin' here.
So I have the same furnace at my house but it starts heats up the flame lights then in about 8 to 10 seconds the flame dies out and then it trys agen and just keeps doing that what could ve my problem if you could help
Often that is the ignitor. The ignitor also acts as the flame sensor on this model. Sometimes the ignitor builds up some soot. CAREFULLY brush off that soot would help. Or it could be not in the flame enough as it gets older it gets a little weaker. Again, CAREFULLY bend the metal bracket just a little to move it so it will be more into the flame. You could very easily break it this way so please be careful. It definitely sounds like an ignitor issue but could be an air intake our exhaust. Check roof Jack for obstruction. 99.9% chance it’s the former.
Can you use WD40 to loosen the orifice?
That would not penetrate the threads and may get into the valve. I would not use any lubricants for it nor do you use thread sealant when putting it back on. Using the correct wrench size is always best. I have had to use channel locks however when they have been stripped. Thanks for the question
@@randydolph852 when I try to loosen the orifice the entire fitting just spins and I’ve tried a wrench and can’t budge it.
It is okay to take that whole fitting off. If you do take the whole piece off at the threaded piece of the valve you will need thread sealant when putting it back on. Sometimes those orifices are a pain.
@@randydolph852 ok thank you.
How do I start this type of furnace for the first time?
I did all that and mine wont seem to ignite still the gas don't seem to be flowing do you know what might be wrong?
When you took the orifice out did it have a clog in it? Are you able to check to see if, once the igniter comes on, does 24 volts come down to the valve? Are you sure you are getting gas to the valve? I often loosen the gas connection and check for pressure. There is a Allen wrench nut on the valve where you can check pressure in from supply but you need a tester to tell you if that is correct. If you have gas to the valve and are getting 24 volts after igniter comes on for about ten seconds, then it sounds like bad valve. Make sure you are getting that 24 volts as I’ve seen it be a bad circuit board not supplying the valve. Note if you are getting to a glowing igniter you are passed the pressure system so don’t look for problems there.
@randy I’m getting no blinking light. Only the blower fan kicks on if I turn the thermostat to the fan on position. I’ve changed the control board, and igniter. I was checking voltage on the igniter wire and the pressure system motor kicked on. Still nothing when I put it on auto and try to start the furnace.
How test the switch on the gas?
Awww poor spider lol
Well it's the me or the spider so Im game.
My set up looks exactly like that. I have four red blinking lights so apparently it's the ignitor.
The flame comes on and it's pretty strong. And then the whole system shuts off after two minutes.
.It's set on AUTO HEAT @ 70 degrees.
Seems like it wanted to warm up but it shut off by itself. Any ideas?
Its going to be 30 tonight and My space heaters keep blowing the fuses.
Thank you for your video!
Sorry for the late reply. It may be something to do with the flame sensor. On intertherm/nordyne furnaces the sensor is the igniter. Clean the ignitor, when cool. I usually use a soft toothbrush, SUPER lightly. When the furnace goes off, you’d need to know what the flash code say.
Trying this in the morning
How can a spider block it
It seems it would be its web, not the spider itself, that gets in the way.
I replaced my ignition switch and I'm wondering if I hooked the lose wires to it backwards into the white wiring harness? It didn't come connected in the parts box...and my furnace still doesn't work..😪😪😪
I have the same thing but it ignites and see the flame but then shuts off like the gas turned off
Hello, usually that is the flame sensor, which on this exact model doubles aS the igniter. Clean the ignitor gently with a small paintbrush then carefully bend the ignitor bracket so that it moved the tip of the ignitor into the flame where it leaves the big tube. Thanks for the reply.
My Evcon is flashing once and code says a igniter failure, could mine be the same problem as this?
It could be. This is a ignition failure issue. Make sure to check the igniter for continuity. Hope you got it working by now. Does the igniter come on and then a clicking sound is heard and either small or no flame? Then this is the potential problem. If no igniter comes on and then it starts flashing ignition failure then focus more o; the ignitor
I cleaned my still won't light
And $300 for service something simple