This sounds great if you want to print just cubes and simple shapes, but what if i want to print somehting more complex shapes? I'm struggling to get my different color layers to penetrate deeper keeping the same shape .
How complex shapes? In my case, I was printing basically a coaster with a picture and I had to have that picture to petrude deeper into the print. As I was making it in Fusion, I just exported the picture parts that were supposed to be different colors and then added it as a modifier. Worked like a charm
@@3DRevolution i need help, some of the color just ignores the modifiercube and makes my print unprintable on one layer where it needs bridging, it goes in straight lines across the gap in monocolor, but makes circles mid air when multicolorprinted 😞
I'm looking for a way to take a painted area on an existing model (it happens to be a number in a custom font) and extend it all the way through the material. Can't do it with TinkerCAD-shaped modifiers, tho. Any ideas? I want it to use a clear filament so the number can be backlit by the LED behind it. Update: The numbers I wanted to extend the painting depth on happened to be laying flat on the bed, and are only 13 layers thick. I found that by modifying the bottom shell layers to 7, and leaving the top shell layers to 6, combined with your TARDIS window trick of painting the inside the same color as the outside, I could get the numbers to extend back 7 layers, followed by a clear layer on the back, so the LED light will shine through. Yay! If I left any area in the middle of the model, it would put infill pattern in the opaque color which I don't want. I could have otherwise used your modifier method, but hten the infill pattern would be in the clear filament and would still look kinda funky from the front.
ok but how do i stop it from printing color on every top layer. example make cube, set to 10 top layers, paint design on top layer, slice, you see that the design goes through all 10 top layers. casuing printing in thin air and causing print fails.
This was amazing dude. I was printing translucent keyboard keys but with painted icons on top for my keyboard and the filament color would bleed into the key until you showed me this trick!
FYI this doesn't work if the color of the modifier is set to the same color as the entire part. Sometimes this is necessary because for example you'll want a part that has green contoured areas on the top yet the sides white. So you'll set the part to green but the slicer adds white filler material inside just 1 layer under some of the top green areas...it will frustratingly put white inside the part due to the white sides. So if you try to correct this by adding a green modifier to get that green to go down more layers, it doesn't work. You'd have to make the entire part white first, which defeats the purpose of having it green inside in the first place.
Does this technique only work within walls and infill? For instance if I make my modifier stick out the top and bottom of a white cube and make that modifer a black cube it only places the black within the infill once it gets to the solid layers it just stops and makes those white. I cant seem to get it to work in this context.
This doesn't just affect infil but affects any part of the model it comes in contact with. If you don't want it to 'paint' the walls, you'll need to scale and position it appropriately. For example, if you had a 20mm white cube and you wanted to paint the full width infil of a certain part of it black, you'd create a modifier cube, scale it to be the width of the cube minus the overall thickness of your walls (so if you were printing with a 0.4mm nozzle and had walls set to 2, you'd probably make the modifier around 18.2mm) and position it centrally in the main cube.
I have a flat surface that is red with my sons name on the flat surface in black. It's irritating Bambu wants to start the black color change in such a low layer height that it adds allot of time and waste to the print. I wish there was a way to tell the slicer at what layer to start the black color change🤷♂. I thought this video was headed in that direction but with letters being complex(ish) shapes I don't think the modifier trick will work??
First off, thanks for all the videos. They have been a great help! I am having an issue where I've tried to add the modifier as you showed in the cube example but it didn't work and was wondering if you can help. So I have a 2.8mm thin cylinder with a diameter of 40mm. Using a .2mm nozzle, I am trying to color the 2.4mm thick part all white and the rest (.4mm which is 4 layers) Green and black however, when splicing the model, the color change begins at 2.2mm layer height as opposed to the 2.4mm layer which would make more sense and more importantly, less filament changes. Any way to fix this? Potential video/idea: Totally irrelevant to the issue above but I was thinking what if you can use a .6mm nozzle print, change mid print to a .2mm for greater detail if your printing small letters and such.
Hey really sorry for the late reply. Glad the videos have been useful, plenty more on the way! Regarding your issue, how have you tried applying the technique I describe in this video. On the top of your cylinder, you say you want it green and black for the top 4 layers. I'm presuming that's an image or pattern. You could have the model's default filament as white, then use a layer range paint tool to paint the top 4 layers either green or black (whichever is dominant, lets say green for argument), then create an STL of the black part and import that as a modifier shape like I did in this video, setting that area as black. If you still get that bleeding down into earlier layers, you could create a cylendrical modifier for that area and apply white to it as a reinforcement. Fun idea for the video, but (that I'm aware of) there is no current way to do this. Even if you did manage to pause the printer mid-print, and change the nozzle without moving the extruder head or causing an issue with the filament, the rest of the file would still be sliced for use with the original nozzle and as a result, the extrusion rates etc would all be completely wrong and ruin the print. The only way around that I could see would be to slice the whole thing twice (once with a 0.6mm nozzle, and once with a 0.2mm nozzle), then open the gCode in notepad and copy the second half of one, then replace the second half of the other with it. But that's just based on an initial thought now and would rely on specifics for the design and print itself.
There's a few ways you could do this. The best way, if you have access to some sort of CAD software, would be to create a 3D extrusion of the text, then select 'Load' from the 'Add modifier' menu and select the STL you've made of the 3D text, then position it when you need. One way you could do it inside Bambu Studio is to create a cube using the primative objects function, resize it to a flat panel the size of the text you want, then use the text tool in the top bar to apply an extrusion of the text you want onto that. You can then export that object as an STL, delete it inside Bambu Studio, then do as I mentioned before and right click on your object, go to 'Add Modifier', select 'Load' and then select the STL of your text, then just follow the instructions in this video. Hope that helps.
I'm a little confusd as to your issue here? I'm using a cube in this video simply as an example, this works on literally any shape. But also, the whole point of this video is painting at depth (as in defining colours used inside the model, not just on the surface). If you just want to paint the outside of your model, you can use the conventional painting tool. You may like to check out my Painting Masterclass video on that here: th-cam.com/video/5aJZyhfY74s/w-d-xo.html
This sounds great if you want to print just cubes and simple shapes, but what if i want to print somehting more complex shapes? I'm struggling to get my different color layers to penetrate deeper keeping the same shape .
How complex shapes?
In my case, I was printing basically a coaster with a picture and I had to have that picture to petrude deeper into the print.
As I was making it in Fusion, I just exported the picture parts that were supposed to be different colors and then added it as a modifier. Worked like a charm
Brilliant! Nicely done!
Thanks, hope it was helpful. Happy printing!
After lots of googling, this was the only solution to my problem. Thanks!
Really glad it helped!
@@3DRevolution i need help, some of the color just ignores the modifiercube and makes my print unprintable on one layer where it needs bridging, it goes in straight lines across the gap in monocolor, but makes circles mid air when multicolorprinted 😞
I'm looking for a way to take a painted area on an existing model (it happens to be a number in a custom font) and extend it all the way through the material. Can't do it with TinkerCAD-shaped modifiers, tho. Any ideas? I want it to use a clear filament so the number can be backlit by the LED behind it.
Update: The numbers I wanted to extend the painting depth on happened to be laying flat on the bed, and are only 13 layers thick. I found that by modifying the bottom shell layers to 7, and leaving the top shell layers to 6, combined with your TARDIS window trick of painting the inside the same color as the outside, I could get the numbers to extend back 7 layers, followed by a clear layer on the back, so the LED light will shine through. Yay! If I left any area in the middle of the model, it would put infill pattern in the opaque color which I don't want. I could have otherwise used your modifier method, but hten the infill pattern would be in the clear filament and would still look kinda funky from the front.
Thank you so much. So easy to understand and helped me immediately
ok but how do i stop it from printing color on every top layer. example make cube, set to 10 top layers, paint design on top layer, slice, you see that the design goes through all 10 top layers. casuing printing in thin air and causing print fails.
This was amazing dude. I was printing translucent keyboard keys but with painted icons on top for my keyboard and the filament color would bleed into the key until you showed me this trick!
FYI this doesn't work if the color of the modifier is set to the same color as the entire part. Sometimes this is necessary because for example you'll want a part that has green contoured areas on the top yet the sides white. So you'll set the part to green but the slicer adds white filler material inside just 1 layer under some of the top green areas...it will frustratingly put white inside the part due to the white sides. So if you try to correct this by adding a green modifier to get that green to go down more layers, it doesn't work. You'd have to make the entire part white first, which defeats the purpose of having it green inside in the first place.
Does this technique only work within walls and infill? For instance if I make my modifier stick out the top and bottom of a white cube and make that modifer a black cube it only places the black within the infill once it gets to the solid layers it just stops and makes those white. I cant seem to get it to work in this context.
This doesn't just affect infil but affects any part of the model it comes in contact with. If you don't want it to 'paint' the walls, you'll need to scale and position it appropriately.
For example, if you had a 20mm white cube and you wanted to paint the full width infil of a certain part of it black, you'd create a modifier cube, scale it to be the width of the cube minus the overall thickness of your walls (so if you were printing with a 0.4mm nozzle and had walls set to 2, you'd probably make the modifier around 18.2mm) and position it centrally in the main cube.
Great tips!! Thank you for all your helpful videos
Glad you like them and hope they're helpful! Happy printing 🙂
I have a flat surface that is red with my sons name on the flat surface in black. It's irritating Bambu wants to start the black color change in such a low layer height that it adds allot of time and waste to the print. I wish there was a way to tell the slicer at what layer to start the black color change🤷♂. I thought this video was headed in that direction but with letters being complex(ish) shapes I don't think the modifier trick will work??
Thanks, this helps my current project so much!
Really glad! Hope your project goes well!
First off, thanks for all the videos. They have been a great help!
I am having an issue where I've tried to add the modifier as you showed in the cube example but it didn't work and was wondering if you can help.
So I have a 2.8mm thin cylinder with a diameter of 40mm. Using a .2mm nozzle, I am trying to color the 2.4mm thick part all white and the rest (.4mm which is 4 layers) Green and black however, when splicing the model, the color change begins at 2.2mm layer height as opposed to the 2.4mm layer which would make more sense and more importantly, less filament changes. Any way to fix this?
Potential video/idea:
Totally irrelevant to the issue above but I was thinking what if you can use a .6mm nozzle print, change mid print to a .2mm for greater detail if your printing small letters and such.
Hey really sorry for the late reply. Glad the videos have been useful, plenty more on the way!
Regarding your issue, how have you tried applying the technique I describe in this video. On the top of your cylinder, you say you want it green and black for the top 4 layers. I'm presuming that's an image or pattern.
You could have the model's default filament as white, then use a layer range paint tool to paint the top 4 layers either green or black (whichever is dominant, lets say green for argument), then create an STL of the black part and import that as a modifier shape like I did in this video, setting that area as black. If you still get that bleeding down into earlier layers, you could create a cylendrical modifier for that area and apply white to it as a reinforcement.
Fun idea for the video, but (that I'm aware of) there is no current way to do this.
Even if you did manage to pause the printer mid-print, and change the nozzle without moving the extruder head or causing an issue with the filament, the rest of the file would still be sliced for use with the original nozzle and as a result, the extrusion rates etc would all be completely wrong and ruin the print.
The only way around that I could see would be to slice the whole thing twice (once with a 0.6mm nozzle, and once with a 0.2mm nozzle), then open the gCode in notepad and copy the second half of one, then replace the second half of the other with it.
But that's just based on an initial thought now and would rely on specifics for the design and print itself.
but how to make it parametric?
if i have complex geometries and want to use one filament more than the other
I'm sorry I'm not sure I fully understand your question? Could you explain it a bit further?
You're a magician
Abracadabra, this spool of filament has turned into a magnificent boat!
How to paint text several layers deep?
There's a few ways you could do this. The best way, if you have access to some sort of CAD software, would be to create a 3D extrusion of the text, then select 'Load' from the 'Add modifier' menu and select the STL you've made of the 3D text, then position it when you need.
One way you could do it inside Bambu Studio is to create a cube using the primative objects function, resize it to a flat panel the size of the text you want, then use the text tool in the top bar to apply an extrusion of the text you want onto that. You can then export that object as an STL, delete it inside Bambu Studio, then do as I mentioned before and right click on your object, go to 'Add Modifier', select 'Load' and then select the STL of your text, then just follow the instructions in this video.
Hope that helps.
This video is really rough because you made such a simple model. Doing this on a more complx piece, i havent a clue how to do
wtf am i gonna do with a cube? i need to paint the outside of a conical gear, no way this is going to work
I'm a little confusd as to your issue here?
I'm using a cube in this video simply as an example, this works on literally any shape. But also, the whole point of this video is painting at depth (as in defining colours used inside the model, not just on the surface).
If you just want to paint the outside of your model, you can use the conventional painting tool. You may like to check out my Painting Masterclass video on that here: th-cam.com/video/5aJZyhfY74s/w-d-xo.html