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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ต.ค. 2024
- Thank you Audiotec-Fischer for supplying the drivers for this review.
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I don't know man. I only need to see a thumbnail with your name below and I gonna click. Favorite TH-camr by far. No nonsense only good content. Thank you soooo much!
agree👍
Honestly I don't know what it is about his videos, I just want to watch them all! I'm not even really looking to do anything in my car currently. Just enjoying the videos and getting knowledge for the future at the same time
@@Gershy13 Personally I think this type of content is like the best mixture of information and entertainment. True Infotainment.
Its funny seeing you do a video on something I literally just did and got into a debate about on the RTA In cars page. I agree 100% By feeling the energy in front near the legs or feet it helps trick the brain (at least for me) to pull more image up front. No I can't audibly hear it. but feeling up there makes me feel like some songs I am right at the drum set. And for me that makes a neat impact/feeling that I very much enjoy.
I am glad you compared with a front sub. I was genuinely curious if it would make a difference if kicks could extend low enough to integrate seamlessly with a rear sub.
Great work and great video!
I just had this conversation with my buddy 30mins ago. That tactical feeling from the sides or rear, different tricks my brain. When my volume is at moderate levels (no tactical energy) the stage seems great. But when I feel bass vibration it pulls it away from the dash. Its like a sensory clash.
How low does the center go? I'd imagine you could push the crossovers a hair lower.. You mention being slightly concerned with how much beating the kicks can take. The front sub is exactly what would help them survive.
In short, you may not notice tonality differences, but output capability should be stronger
The center sub can play with no high pass. It plays all the way down to 10-15Hz, but loses authority at higher levels it is a 10in after all. Surprisingly these ci5's CAN take a beating, not sure how long though😂 I might use the front sub just as a filler to alleviate the pressure from the kicks just a little bit.
I got tm8s, and they get down there. But I cant jam out too hard with them crossed that low. But for "normal" listening they would get it done 4sure.
back to basics for home theater may be?
I don't have a home theatre..
Make video about running a front sub and a sub in the trunk together and how to blend them
It is no different than blending midbass and sub🤷 Just different crossover points.
@@RAW-CAt I know but love to watch you do stuff to learn and to reassure me that I am doing it right. ✊
Isn’t Helix coming out with an i7 subwoofer as well, which is supposed to be better than the i5 ?
Great video.
I might need to get these for my BMW underseat subs instead of the Morel equivalent
Not sure. There is an i7 8in woofer, but it does not offer that much excursion and is considered just a midbass driver.
A friend of mine works at ATF. The i7 is targeted as a hard kicking Mid, the i5 is intended to play a bit thicker and deeper, but not as clean and fast as the i7 does.
the helix looks a lot like the ideal speaker for me... too bad they didn't come out a year earlier...
Sveikas. Na kaip ir pavyko kažką sugaudyti 😊 bet rta (virtual nustatyme) iškirpo dvi dideles duobes nors ant paprasto to nebuvo matavimas darytas tuo pačiu budu
good day, please, what kind of tablet do you have? thank you
It's a microsoft surface running windows.
Can I ask do u think in the glove compartment would make a difference compared to the foot area because I mean placement is everything for sure. Do you regret the subwoofer down in the foot area if you could do it different what would u do to potentially get a greater outcome then expected?
Sun in footwell will.offer the greatest cabin gain so it would be the best location. The glove box will have slightly less gain and you will have all the dash to deal with, rattles and such.
How do you import a target curve on to that measurement screen in REW? Any help is appreciated.
Drag and drop. As long as your target is .txt format. I use Jazzis tuning companion to make targets.
@@RAW-CAt that worked thank you, sir.
As always great content video audio tutorial lessons advice honesty editing & humbleness
🚙🔊💨SQL
A front sub would be nice, but wouldn’t a DSP give a similar effect by bringing bass forward?
I can see an advantage for competition purposes
The purpose of a front sub is not to "bring the bass forward" but to cover the cabin cancelation at 60-70Hz.
There is nothing that does what a front sub does, other than a front sub...
I've been competing since the early 90's. After DSP, front subs are the most important and significant innovation that's happened to SQ car audio imo.
@@BMW1M From a competitive standpoint, no doubt. A front sub is a serious commitment for a daily driver.
@@milesbachelor8747with a family also. Trying to figure out how to get a front sub in my car
@@milesbachelor8747 Absolutely. My daily doesn't have one, but the car that gets all the toys certainly does. My daily isn't near on the same level though, and in response to your original question, no, rear subs cannot pull off "bass up front" like a front sub does, no matter what you do with DSP.
Are you the guy in the movie called Django with Jamie foxx
I wish😂
Ponas kaip ir neseniai sakei ar pas mane visas signalas žemo yra tai patikrinus helix input signal analyzer rodo tik nuo 45hz bėda tada gaunas neturiu pilno žemo
What about these in the doors and front in the passenger floor. I have the same problem with having a bad gap between my SI-sql15 in rear with focal kx3 in door. Acoustically there is a dip between 50ish and 80. Crossed at 80.
Most likely,You got them crossed too high, and have the gain up too much on the sub. They play down to 50, let them play. Maybe out of phase?
@@Pete.across.the.street I will try to evaluate your statement the next time I can pull the microphone out. The gains were initially set with dd-1 and verified after tuning with oscilloscope. But even with all of the fronts off I could never get the sub to perform in that range. I never tried crossing them together lower than 80, hurler 80 and 100
@@stiehl8455 ok gain is good then. First, i would try flipping the phase on the sub and see if you get your bass back. I would cross the focal's and sub over at 50hz. That will probably fix the phase null you have you have. 15's don't like to play high and unless you are getting distortion, the focals can handle 50 hz. In general, it is better to use lower crossovers.
@@Pete.across.the.street thanks
@@stiehl8455 you're welcome. Let me know how it goes.
Hi Do you have a patreon service I am new in audio hobby age 53 and new to REW and these technical terms and I want learn and get assistance with I set up my car. I don’t have a single installer in my city who understands measurement and only do vanilla installation
I do have a Patreon however that is only for those that are willing to support my channel. I don't make videos exclusively for parteon, everything is for free on YT. If you want to start at the basics, look at my playlist called "back to basics" where I am covering pretty much everything you need in order for a solid start. As well feel free to join "RTA in cars" FB group and ask questions, there is plenty of information there.
Sveikas. Gal netyčia daręs apžvalgą apie helix dsp virtual nustatymus nes po subwoofer įdėjimo niekaip negaliu suderinti sistemos o iš naujo darant nustatymus virtual sistemoje nesusidraugauju su rta jis kazkaip nenori skanuoti uzduoto dažnio
Ne, nedariau to. Bet reikia routinti taip
front L 50% + front R 50% -> subwoofer virtual
Subwoofer virtual -> subwoofer output channel.
@@RAW-CAt Ačiū pamėginsiu
99% of people only need 1 subwoofer to get a flat bass response and proper spl, no need for multiple unless you are using 6" or 8".
True, but depends on speaker config, door speakers can cause a lot of cancellation that a front sub would fill in
@@cnkyy you should use phase filters and delay to fix that. You are just throwing money and space away on multiple subs, and all you will get is +6db
@@Pete.across.the.street You can't fix location related cancellations/nulls with phase and delay. A front sub is primarily to help fill in those gaps. Plus, in a lot of cars, a trunk subwoofer won't play all that well above 60hz and makes it difficult to integrate with your midbass. So you would cross your rear sub from 0-60, and your front sub from 60-100ish. Plus you'll get a lot more impact out of a front sub than your 6.5" midbass. It's not about SPL, but about better upfront bass and overcoming location issues.
@@flavorfulpineapl2951 why can't you? That is what phase and delay are used for (IRR, FIR, VIR filters)?....Why would you cross your sub over at higher than 60hz? If your mid-bass doesn't play very low you should upgrade those instead of trying to fix it with a sub. It is easier to blend speakers when you use lower crossover points. I crossed my fronts at 50hz and had zero issues blending them and I get plenty of mid-bass. I think that many people have the gain up way too high on their subs, which is why they don't blend well.
50hz from front midbass? Midbass on the door?