I watched your video and you showed me how to change my brakes on my just. I changed them a few days ago myself, thank you for making videos. Up next is my oil change. I never changed brakes before in my life, but I’m proud of myself cause I did it. 😊
So at 04:56, you know those tabs that are pressing on the back of the pad? That’s not supposed to be like that, the break pad should slide on top of the tab, that is what helps retract the pad and keeps it in place
Just a heads up. The copper grease is supposed to go where metal on metal contact is going to happen between the brakes pads and caliper minus the pad to rotor contact which will cause your brakes to fail. The grease that you're supposed to use on the slide pin is silicone grease. Copper grease and other greased besides silicone grease may cause your rubber boot on the slide pin to fail and possibly get stuck. It's a pain in the butt when they do fail.
@@kyakukid1 He installed those clips, and I agree there should be a little copper grease there. If you mean piston to pad shims, the anti-squeal pad on the back of the pads negates the need for the grease, or shims.
Spinning the piston only...spun the piston. I found that when I enabled the brake service routine thru the touchscreen, I was able to simply push the pistons back with my fingers. I mean it was slow going and I have strong hands, but still. I imagine that is what that mode does. As an aside, remember "disc brake quiet?" it was an orange silicone they used to push when you bought the pads. Now all they do is insist you buy the silicone grease for the slider pins. Like I dont think you can even buy "disc brake quiet" any more, but what I do is apply a dab of permatex ultra gray or something like that to where the piston contacts the back of inboard pad, and then also to the two prongs of the calipers that contact the back of the outboard pads. Maybe its voodoo but I dont get any squeaks ever. And..I did not use the silicone grease. A peek under the boot showed it to be full of factory grease and VERY clean. Yeah Im suppose to peel the boot off, pull the slider out and get my grubby fingers all over the slides and put the little ketchup packet full of crap they foisted upon me all over? Nah, It would wind up worse. (84,000 miles on mine) maybe if I have the car in another 4 years I will treat it to some new silicone grease if its dried out by then or if the boots dry rot or something.
I actually have the proper tool to screw the piston back in. Of course- when I was doing the brake job, I couldn’t find it🫤, so your needle nose solution worked well. Thanks for the video.
Need to remove all corrosion from hub before installing new rotor. This is to control "runout" which results in warped rotor and brake pedal pulsation.
The copper slip grease you used on the slider pins is incorrect. That is provided for the backs of pads (optional these days) and a little for the carrier clips to ensure the pads slide smoothly for longer. Should be a silicone based grese for the pins (usually a red grease but white also) Also it's easier to insert the pads once the carrier is mounted on the car, before the caliper is put back.
That little set screw is so odd, I had to drill one out because of it stripping. Brakes are tough up here in the northeast, everything corrodes much more.
just did mine. After messing with that pin bolt and brainfarting on pad orientation, second side took 15 min.😅😅😅 Think I needed a 17mm for lug bolt, 17 for calip bolt and pin nut, 1/2 for slide bolt. Used slotted, drilled, coated rotors and ceramic. This sucker stops on a dime. WOW! Did just pads up front about 20,000 miles ago. I can just imaging what front slotted rotors will be like. Weird thing is was looki g for this type video. All I hear and read about is 14mm, 16mm and E20, yet for rear, 17 and 1/2 worked for me.
I believe you still have a brake service mode I'm not a 100% sure though. try looking through other options. mine is a 2018, they must have changed it for the 2020. sorry I couldn't be more useful with this issue
I gave you a thumb down because you didn't show how to put the brakes on the caliper. That is the whole purpose of having a TH-cam video. I would have given you 2 thumbs down.
Good video. That part going into the radio was what I needed to see before tackling the job. Thanks 💯
I watched your video and you showed me how to change my brakes on my just. I changed them a few days ago myself, thank you for making videos. Up next is my oil change. I never changed brakes before in my life, but I’m proud of myself cause I did it. 😊
Thats awesome im proud of you to 👍 im glad I could help you out
Jeep oops not just 😩🙄🥴
So at 04:56, you know those tabs that are pressing on the back of the pad? That’s not supposed to be like that, the break pad should slide on top of the tab, that is what helps retract the pad and keeps it in place
Exactly!
People need to read this comment. This is the second video I’ve seen where the person has installed the rear pad incorrectly.
I literally came here to say the same thing!
Just a heads up. The copper grease is supposed to go where metal on metal contact is going to happen between the brakes pads and caliper minus the pad to rotor contact which will cause your brakes to fail. The grease that you're supposed to use on the slide pin is silicone grease. Copper grease and other greased besides silicone grease may cause your rubber boot on the slide pin to fail and possibly get stuck. It's a pain in the butt when they do fail.
Where would you put it on the pads to caliber?
@@melvinguy8014
There should be a metal retention/seat clips that comes with the brake pads. That's where I use the copper grease.
@@kyakukid1 He installed those clips, and I agree there should be a little copper grease there. If you mean piston to pad shims, the anti-squeal pad on the back of the pads negates the need for the grease, or shims.
@@OggyGTA
Yep
Spinning the piston only...spun the piston. I found that when I enabled the brake service routine thru the touchscreen, I was able to simply push the pistons back with my fingers. I mean it was slow going and I have strong hands, but still. I imagine that is what that mode does. As an aside, remember "disc brake quiet?" it was an orange silicone they used to push when you bought the pads. Now all they do is insist you buy the silicone grease for the slider pins. Like I dont think you can even buy "disc brake quiet" any more, but what I do is apply a dab of permatex ultra gray or something like that to where the piston contacts the back of inboard pad, and then also to the two prongs of the calipers that contact the back of the outboard pads. Maybe its voodoo but I dont get any squeaks ever. And..I did not use the silicone grease. A peek under the boot showed it to be full of factory grease and VERY clean. Yeah Im suppose to peel the boot off, pull the slider out and get my grubby fingers all over the slides and put the little ketchup packet full of crap they foisted upon me all over? Nah, It would wind up worse. (84,000 miles on mine) maybe if I have the car in another 4 years I will treat it to some new silicone grease if its dried out by then or if the boots dry rot or something.
You did a good job, was questioning the grease on the slider? Thanks for sharing its appreciated 🙂
I actually have the proper tool to screw the piston back in. Of course- when I was doing the brake job, I couldn’t find it🫤, so your needle nose solution worked well. Thanks for the video.
Need to remove all corrosion from hub before installing new rotor. This is to control "runout" which results in warped rotor and brake pedal pulsation.
To be fair, I think he gave them a scrub with some brake cleaner. I normally lightly sand off the corrosion.
The copper slip grease you used on the slider pins is incorrect. That is provided for the backs of pads (optional these days) and a little for the carrier clips to ensure the pads slide smoothly for longer. Should be a silicone based grese for the pins (usually a red grease but white also)
Also it's easier to insert the pads once the carrier is mounted on the car, before the caliper is put back.
That little set screw is so odd, I had to drill one out because of it stripping. Brakes are tough up here in the northeast, everything corrodes much more.
great video.. do you turn off the truck after going into brake service mode ?
thanks, yes turn it off
thanks brother 👍🏽
just did mine. After messing with that pin bolt and brainfarting on pad orientation, second side took 15 min.😅😅😅
Think I needed a 17mm for lug bolt, 17 for calip bolt and pin nut, 1/2 for slide bolt. Used slotted, drilled, coated rotors and ceramic. This sucker stops on a dime. WOW! Did just pads up front about 20,000 miles ago. I can just imaging what front slotted rotors will be like. Weird thing is was looki g for this type video. All I hear and read about is 14mm, 16mm and E20, yet for rear, 17 and 1/2 worked for me.
great video. btw what tire size are you running?
Thank you, and they're 225/65r17
For me, this option is not available, only turning on or off the brake while parking. What should I do in this case?
what year do you have?
@@603Mechanicvids 2020 december
I believe you still have a brake service mode I'm not a 100% sure though. try looking through other options. mine is a 2018, they must have changed it for the 2020. sorry I couldn't be more useful with this issue
let me know what you find
I have a 20015 brake retractable is not an option
My rear hubs are made differently they don't have a nut inside of them and I've banged the hell out of the rotors they won't come off
did you set the maintenance on the brakes so they are released?
I cringed when you tightened the rotor screw that tight
Really helped great video
same car, no "brake service" available!
Perfect very good video 👍
I gave you a thumb down because you didn't show how to put the brakes on the caliper. That is the whole purpose of having a TH-cam video. I would have given you 2 thumbs down.
He did the part wrong, so it's a good thing he didn't show it.
Yea, he put his pads in wrong so thankfully nobody will see to replicate.
Perfect very good video 👍
Thank you for the comment i appreciate it 👍
Putting the pads in incorrectly is far from perfect