They have been working for 105,500 miles so far updated - 4/2/23 215K miles on the car - car has since been sold so there will be no more updates but the coil packs were still going strong 👍👍
Hello, Trained as a mechanic in 1980. I've watched many videos, and yours is one of the best. Very well done, excellent camera work. The only problem is you make it look too easy and left out all the mandatory cuss words! Keep up the great work! Edit- just did this job today, the wiring harness near the firewall is a nightmare to work around. I broke every single clip on the 7 connectors I had to disassemble to get at plug#5 because the harness on the 2007 es350 is so tight to the manifold. I wound up buying the gear wrench sockets you used but as it turned out I didn't need them at all I was able to use a standard spark plug socket and a combination of a 4-in a 1-in and a 2-in extension to get into the spark plug well. Using this method you cannot stick the extensions into the well assembled You have to put one in at a time and attach the remaining extensions one at a time and then attach the ratchet last.
Thanks for posting this vid! I Replaced back 3 coils on my 2007 Camry SE using this method today. I have done spark plug replacement removing the intake as well and this method is a little quicker. It took about an hour and a half (could do it in under an hour next time) and saved having to replace the intake plenum gasket. The procedure is very close to this video with a few exceptions: 1.) Strut support is more of a tray not a bar. 2.) Wiper motor assembly HAS to be removed in order to get the tray out. Not a big deal just 4 10mm bolts. 3.) Did not remove the L shaped harness support bracket on the left. The harness was taped into a plastic bracket so I cut the tape which allows it to be pulled out. I put a wire tie on it to re-secure it. Number 5 is a PITA but with patience and finesse can be done.
This video made my coil/spark plug change a breeze and it saved me a lot of money so far... We'll see how long the coils last. Cylinder 3 was a pain but worked out. Thanks again for the tool and part recommendations. They all worked out great. Thanks again!
Great video for the do it yourself mechanic. Most videos and forums are showing the torque pounds at around 20 to 21 foot pounds. I checked in a Lexus service manual after you said it was 13 and YOU are correct. Thanks for saving me from stripping out the plug threads in my ES350 cylinder head.
As a professional master technician, I strongly advise against replacing good working genuine toyota coils with cheap coils. Replace only the faulty coil and try to determine the cause of the coil failure. A coil may have failed from a worn spark plug and/or a lean condition on that cylinder. Carbon build up in the combustion chamber could also overwork the coil. If you're concerned about the condition of the remaining coils, have a qualified technician perform current ramp testing to determine whether or not they may fail in the near future. Repair any possible lean condition that may be overworking the coils in addition to the worn spark plugs. Misfires on all cylinders could suggest an overall lean engine condition that will need to be repaired to prevent premature failure of the new coils.
I completely agree. I would have replaced the one with an OEM coil and left the rest. My friend is operating on a tight budget and wanted to replace them all. He purchased them before talking with us and we were just helping him out with the installation. I would never use a cheap alternative for coils but in his case it was all he could afford at the time.
Had a friend have Lexus replace a bad coil... three times, on a 12 year old car. When they go they tend to go one at a time. Mechanics sure like return customers.
@@mikepayne5277 yeah they do lol. I would only replace what is needed because I can do the work myself. If going to a mechanic replace them all together.
@@TheSundaeDrive On a 2007 Avalon with same engine, Coil #2 went bad. I replaced it with an OEM Denso. Now Coil #1 just went bad. That is on the back side. As the procedure calls to remove the intake air plenum, I will replace all three coils at once as I only want to perform the lengthy procedure once. I will see if your procedure without removing the intake works on the same year Avalon. The annoying thing is I had replaced the spark plugs at 108,000 miles and removed the plenum for that job. Now at 124,000 miles, I may have to do it again. I would recommend now to replace the back coils when replacing spark plugs. It looks like these coils have a life expectancy of about 100,000 miles.
Just finished this job on an '07 ES350; Middle rear coil needed replacement. The video & instructions are good, BUT, if you buy winter gloves marked Large, IMO, this is not the method for you. Large hands - all I was able to accomplish, working in the dark, was tearing up my forearm, while changing the coil & plug on Cylinder #1. Cylinder #3 I found impossible. #5 - Didn't even try. I threw in the towel, and pulled the intake manifold. Suddenly I could see everything, and it was all accessible. Factory method was much easier than I expected, will cost you an additional $30-$40 in new gaskets. One more thing, the OP used a one piece 11-inch spark plug wrench, with swivel and extension. IMHO, **too long**, it got in the way doing the Lexus, but, may be perfect for an RX or Highlander. If you're buying one, suggest slightly shorter 10" length.
This comment is correct, cylinder #1 and #3 are tough but i was able to do , however #5 is impossible because wire harness is right on top of coil so even if you loosen the coil there is no room to pull it out no matter what wire connections you pull
I feel your pain. #3 was out. replaced plugs in 2, 4, 6. piece of Cake, Replacing plug # 3 and coil pack. May call it Quits if she runs well. The engineering on these Lexus. They should be shot. Labor for even a simple alternator is a nightmare.
Before starting this job, highly recommend you have ignition coil connectors on hand. Connectors are somewhat aggressive and because of exposure to heat, plastic can be brittle. Chances are one or more connectors will break clips. Easy to unpin old connector and install new one. This is important for the rear bank connectors which cannot be accessed with intake installed.
Great video. If those are iridium spark plugs, I think you aren’t supposed to gap them or check the gap because that scratches off some of the iridium. Haynes manual says it’s unnecessary because they are gapped at the factory.
The retaining clips are extremely brittle for these cars. If yours breaks off don't worry you can still connect it in. I changed spark plugs last year and my ignition coil connectors have not slipped off or anything. You'll be fine 👍 just make sure it's pressed in all the way.
Just received my NGK iridium spark plugs from Amazon, wish me luck on replacing all coil packs and spark plugs. Decided to do ALL since my ES is at 183k miles and I don't know when anything was done last, and with one coil pack going out, just doing em all... Cross your fingers LOL
Why do people waste their money on Amazon... RockAuto have the OEM parts you have to pay the shipping but the part price is actually the cheapest place.
Next time don't use Amazon because the amount of fake items have Increased significantly. Just buy them at AutoZone of Advanced auto part, they sell DENSO oem products. I got mine for around the same price as Amazon.
Excellent video! Thanks for posting this video!I just replaced spark plugs for my 2013 Lexus ES 350 and doing this way instead of removing the intake manifold and throttle body. This way gave me lots of more room to work on the rear three plugs and I didn't have any problem removing the two bolts holding the bracket on top of the rear plug on the passenger side. Thanks again for the video!!!
Okay...firstly thanks for the video. It was done very well. Nice camera work, great job breaking down all the tools and torque specs. Thanks for linking the tools and parts. Now for my gripe...I did this today on my 2007 es350. No mater what I did I could not get enough slack in the harness to get the number 5 coil pack out. I wasted at least an hour trying to get enough wiggle room to get the coil pack out. It took me like ten minutes to pull the manifold and air box. Once I did that the coil pack was out in five minutes. I wish I had pulled the manifold first and saved an hour. also I recommend putting something over the pinch weld to protect your left forearm when working from the right side. Eventhough I was wearing long sleeves my forearm is pretty torn up.
Just completed it. I almost gave up on the final plug behind the harness 6 times. Had to get on top of the engine with a really hard pull to get it. It took me an hour just to get to that final tug that release it from the wiring harness. The rest is easy. 225K ES350. Front 3 had oil leaks but these back 3 show no leaks. The cover gaskets in the front had hardened badly so I definitely didn't want to do the work for back valve cover yet. only your video kept me pulling on that wiring harness until gave way because you showed video evidence it could be done. thanks for the detailed video. It did take me much longer than 1 hr because I didn't have that wire clip tool, so I bent something I had into what you showed and those clips finally come right off.
Great video with details! Just the project I needed while sheltering at home. Did it on my 2008 ES350 with 121,000 miles yesterday. Took about 4 hours with slow work, checking and re-checking to make sure I didn't forget something. A test drive afterwords felt as smooth as before. Just a few notes to share. (1) All tabs on the connectors to coils were broken to the lightest touch! (Video 5:03). I think the age of the car has something to do with it, but there is no easy way to fix that, so I'll just check them once in a while. (2) #3 plug (the "middle" one) was indeed the hardest to get to. I have to loosen up a bracket (10mm nut) that is right next to it which holds the cable harness. Still, with that extra wiggle room, getting the coil back in was almost impossible! (3) The thread on the removed plugs showed some grease/stain, but nothing serious. Might be from the hardened valve seal, but not urgent. (4) I have to say the "work space" is REALLY tight for those hidden plugs. Anyone with well-built arms probably should re-consider. Overall, thanks for the fun project!
Thank you so much for such a high quality video. Gonna do my 2008 Avalon tomorrow without removing the intake manifold after having watched this video. edit: Just changed out all 6 spark plugs, took 4.5 hours. For your interest, here's a list of all the major hiccups I had with my vehicle: 1. removing the wiper blade arms 2. removing the electrical connection shown at 5:40 due to old plastic 3. clearing out all the coils and wires that's covering the rear plugs 4. removing ignition coil 2 and 3 probably due to the vacuum in the chamber 5. removing ignition coil 3 due to all the crap covering it 6. removing spark plug 3 due to all the crap covering it 7. putting back ignition coil 3 due to all the crap covering it The biggest pain in the f***ing ass is #5. I have no tips or tricks, the whole thing is just a huge fiddle around... not an easy or fun job, in fact it's physically painful. Still think it's worth the work to save $500 + tax at the dealer though.
I had to replace the alternator in 2019 on my 07 es not a fun job either. Today a code popped up for number 3 coil again for the third time, this time I'm going to install a new spark plug along with coil.
You were able to do it without removing the plenum and throttle body ? I am in a situation like yours. In some videos they remove the cowl and in some videos they don't. And in some videos the remove the plenum. I have a bad number 5 coil.
Just did this, something I didn't see mentioned in the video: torque the spark plugs to 13 ft-lb. Also 11 inches was too big, 10 inch worked better. And you may as well replace the ignition coil boots while you have the coils out.
Damn. The GS 350 spark plugs are so much easier to remove compared to the ES 350 and IS 250. Thanks for the video. I've done my spark plugs on my 2015 Lexus GS 350 already.
I like to take off the plenum and throttle body so I can give them a good cleaning and replace hoses with new ones. Also, changing the oxygen sensor while your back there wouldn't hurt. Spark plugs are changed every 100,000 miles so you might as well do it right.
I have watched many of similar videos. None take a compression test when the plugs are out. If there is a misfire in a cylinder, a bad valve could be a reason. Compression test is a must in those times.
Thanks so much for this video- you and car care nut both helped me do this and figure it out ! Unfortunately when trying to get that upper bolt back in it dropped somewhere in the engine not on the ground. I’ll try and fish it with a magnetic tool but if I can’t what is that bolt called or referred to on the upper bracket ? Thanks again
I try to go with the factory 🏭 coils because they have the rubber boots at the bottom where as the aftermarket ones are silicone and tear apart when you pull coil out of the spark plug hole.Had to use a pick tool to remove leftover boot material out of spark plug hole.
Thank you very much sir. You confirmed what I suspected on this 2007 Lexus ES350 that I was working on with almost the same codes. Replaced the #6 coil, cleared the codes, relearned the computer, and the six banger purrs like a kitten again. Customer is tickled pink.
well the jeep v6 is easier because it's longitudinally mounted but there is also no way of getting to the sparkplugs without removing the intake. Fortunately, you only need a 10 and 8 mm and about 1.5 hrs to do it.
Thanks for this tutorial. Everything went smoothly thanks to your tips. One of the plastic spouts that connect the vacuum lines to the air box snap at the base and the hose cannot connect. Any tips to fix it?
Thanks for the good video. Unfortunately I found spark plug 3 on my car had a bunch of melted plastic around the spark plug. No idea if this was from manufacturing or dealer service. It took me the better part of 2 days to free it by digging at it will a 6" screw driver so I could get the socket to seat and break the plug free. Then I had to clean out the plug threads with a thread chase. With all the messing around I managed to pull the 3 wires out of the sensor just below plug 5. Any idea what this sensor is? I have managed to take the plug off and think I can resolder, Also not 100% sure of the order of the 3 wires. Black is closest to the firewall, yellow next, and red toward the front, is this correct.
Aww man that sucks. You probably need to figure out what happened. I would be concerned that you would have had debris fall down the motor while cleaning the threads. I would suggest dissasmbling the motor a bit to make sure it is clean inside.
@@TheSundaeDrive I used compressed air gun as I was chipping away the plastic to make sure no debris remained. When I was able to break the pug loose I switched to vacuuming using a 3/4" tube. I had to get a thread chaser to clean out the threads so the spark plug would go in easily. I put anti-seize compound on it and could see the plastic junk trapped in the flutes. Got a new camshaft position sensor connector, finally connected the 3 wires up right, and it runs nicely. This was a 5 day job because of everything that went wrong. I think disconnecting the camshaft position sensor would be a good idea, and would have saved me from having to rewire in a new connector. Luckily I had a Toyota mechanic friend of a friend tell that this was a camshaft position sensor and get me a scrap connector I was able to determine connections from schematics on the internet. Finally you don't mention torque for the strut brace, I am thinking 30 or 40 ft-lbs?
Just an FYI, I have a 2008 Toyota Avalon Limited which (I thought) was nearly identical to the Lexus 07 ES 350 in this video (and most of it is) but wanted to share with anyone reading this that the strut brace you show at 4:35 is (unbelievably) different on my vehicle. Mine does not have 2 bolt connections (visible at least) on the strut tower.... only one. I am not sure if this is better or worse as far as plug accessibility but do know that at least one other video for my car show the windshield wiper motor and then the gutter underneath it removed as well (takes longer to do). Not sure if that is "overkill" and necessary, but that is what they show. Obviously, I was hoping that my car 's engine bay was identical to the one in this video so that my chances of a fast, easy, spark plug replacement is higher. Maybe if I try to do everything else you do and am able to get my strut brace off easily, mine will be easier??????? Who knows.... But I may just go that route and find out for myself!
Did you replace the plugs ? Which method did you use I think the engine bay of the Avalon is smaller than the es350. Did you remove the cowl and plenum both ?
yes, I replaced them a while back. to do so I removed the cowl, the wiper motors, the gutter under the cowl, and the plenum. I had to as there was not enough room to do it any other way.@@pardesi_life
Hey just did mine and on the rear ones that big harness when I pulled on it I ripped the 3 wires that go into the camshaft sensor right below it. There's a yellow, red and black wire but not sure what order they go into the clip, do you by chance know
Trying to discern if my plugs need replaced? 2011 Es350 bought a month ago and I noticed chipped paint on the back of the hood which shows they have been done... just bought a '11 model with 135K on the clock.... purrs like a kitten!! My OCD says I should go in and change plugs! the fact that who ever didn't do it correctly isn't a good gauge of what needs done next! okay I talked myself into this project.... AKA peace of mind! should I replace coils? hmmmm
Great video just bought a 2009 ES350 with 140,000 miles on it now I know what I’m up against but first thing I’m doing is removing the oil filter canister and putting a conversion kit on it so I can use a spin on oil filter don’t like the canister type filter no anti drain back valve
They are linked but here it is again for ya : MAS Set of 6 Ignition Coils for Lexus Lotus Toyota 3.5l V6 Compatible with C1601 UF-487 UF487 C1601 amzn.to/33q4UeQ
Excellent video, no doubt. But 30+ years of working on my own cars has taught me that it's well worth the little extra time to get something out of your way. Busted knuckles, not being able to see, breaking off clips, that one bolt that you just can't get to... all things that lead to frustration and spending more time than you possibly would've anyway. And GET SOME AIR TOOLS! A 50+ gallon tank, ratchet, and impact wrench are game changers! NOTE: NEVER use air tools on spark plugs!!!
Lol all true, we have the big air compressor with a lot of air tools as well as a lot of Milwaukees but we wanted to show it in away the average guy at home would have to do it and most people probably don't feel confident enough to remove the cover
The center middle ignition coil closest to you. For future reference the letter of the coil is laid out like this. With the hood up and you facing the engine. Ignition Coils rear: A | C | E Ignition Coils Front: B | D | F I recently got a check engine, check vsf, and track control error codes. I hooked up the scanner and it gave me this code: P0354 for ignition coil D So in order to verify that it's actually the ignition coil. I swapped the coils from D and F. You only need a 10mm to remove the bolt holding the coil. I then reset my check engine. I drove for 5 miles and then the check engine came on again. This time it was for ignition coil F. This confirms the ignition coil itself is faulty.
Thanks man, just changed my LS460 plugs last month, thought I would have to take off the manifold when I decide to change my ES350 plugs but you just saved me from that. 👍💪
So good video overall but I took off the windshield wipers and, after reattaching, they are not working. I can hear the motor trying to make them go but they won’t move. Any tips?
I'm considering doing this myself, my car needs the 120K service (240K actually) and the plugs are part of that. Last time I did the full 120K service at the dealer it was over $1000 (that included a few other services as well though, but the plugs were the most expensive part). I've changed two of the front coils already (they went bad) and that was pretty easy, doing the back looks like a little more work but if you don't have to remove the manifold it doesn't look bad at all. I would keep the original coils and only change the plugs due to miles. I'm seeing the 6 plugs on Amazon for under $40 and a 10" spark plug tool for about $15, so probably well under $70 for all the parts and some labor.
@@TheSundaeDrive Thanks! One question if you can help. I saw some reviews that "fake" iridium spark plugs might be sold on Amazon. I prefer to use the OEM Denso plugs, but there seems to be two (or more) types, 5344 IKH20 and 3426 FK20HR long-life, do you have any opinion on this? I also want to get legit real denso plugs and don't mind paying a little more. It's for a 2007 ES-350.
If you are interested, I got the 3426 NGK plugs for my car, and when I removed the existing plugs which were installed by the Lexus dealer about 8 years ago they were about 1/2 inch shorter than these new plugs (they are labelled "SK16R-P11"). Have you ever heard of that? I was concerned these new plugs were too long but when I watched your video my plugs were the same length as yours (thanks for showing them!), and I double-checked with O'reilly Auto Parts and the 3426s are definitely a match for my car (2007 Lexus ES-350). Also, just an FYI about aftermarket coils, I've had two coils go out on my car, one I replaced with Denso OEM and the other was an aftermarket. Today when I removed the aftermarket coil the "boot" got separated from the coil and was stuck on the spark plug deep in the motor (ugh). It took me almost an hour to get it out. That's the last aftermarket coil I'll be buying, it just isn't worth the trouble in the future. The other two coils (I only did the front today, will do the back next week) came out no problem, easy change of plug etc.
Awesome video. I had everything to do it ,I used a Makita kit that had a swivel in it . I'll be returning my gaskets lol. Video definitely deserves a 👍🏾. Thank you for your time !!
Sadly not. Overtime you start to know what is too tight or too loose by feel but it takes practice and still easy to mess up. A good torque wrench or two is worth the investment if you plan to work on your own vehicles.
Liked and subscribed... will be using this for my 2013 Camry Se V6 Question though... is it SOP to change out the coil packs when doing spark plugs? I’m at just over 93K miles, and have the OEM plugs and coil packs still in there. Also, I see some TH-camrs applying anti-seize around the threads of the new plugs. Also... would it be necessary to do O2 sensors when doing plugs?
Not necessary to do 02 sensors unless they are bad. At 93K I think your coils are probably still good. If you start having misfires I would change them out but they should last awhile. I'm running original coils on all my vehicles with much higher mileage. I am personally not a fan of antisieze. Newer plugs usually recommend against it. I would verify with the dealer or manufacturer of the plug. Most modern plugs have a coating that protects them. If you do use antisieze make sure it is barely barely any.
2012 Lexus ES350 -the video is helpful to replace 5 of 6 coils and plugs, however the coil and plug on cylinder #5 are impossible due to the fact that the wire harness sits directly on top of the coil and even if you loosen its not loose enough to pull the coil out. I did 5 of 6 and am hoping for the best. I also noticed the video has the hood taken off, this would save a little back pain if you want to go to the trouble. I did not.
If you are mechanical and have the tools it's a 2 hours top job. I've done this 3x and mines has 333,339 miles. I always get the skid, vsc, engine lights when it's time to change the plugs. You can't do just the upfront plugs. You have to do them all. You'll find the tips of the plugs burned out.
I was changing my washer fluid and was surprised to see the sensor that connects to the white housing on the left of the plastic intake manifold was disconnected at 5:38. What exactly is that sensor? A clear shot of it is at 6:09
Hi, I just saw your video and I have a question. I replaced coil #1 with Denso Diamond (I bouth them on eBay, now I'm not sure it those were OEM) and I did it about a year ago. Now the car started with the same code P0351 that it's the same coil I changed. Do you happen to know why would the coil started to fail again in such short period of time? Thank you.
Thank you so much for this video, I am attempting it at this very moment using your video for reference. I do want to note, that my owners manual says the gap is 0.043"/ 1.1mm and do not gap them.. I have found conflicting directions on this so I am going to leave mine ungapped (btw I am using ruthenium spark plugs, what ever that is lol). I will post here if it all goes well or I had to end up gapping them to have my car run smoothly.
This is an excellent video! Thanks for posting. Do you happen to have the torque specification to be used when re-attaching the strut brace and the windshield wiper arms? Thanks again!
Very good,I had mine changer the cost was very high wish I would of knowledge this then, I have a Toyota Highlander with 401700 miles on it I keep it in good shape. Do hope to get a few 100K out of it. Thanks
You don't need tools to remove the push pins. You just push them down to release and pull them up with your hand. I was doing it few days ago to replace the engine air filter...
Hello mate, Am from Sydney. I have an RX330 which seems like needs new coil packs and I may do the sparks while at it. I am presuming the process is not to dissimilar to this model in the video. Other issue I have has to deal with for a few years now is white some coming out upon starting especially after long drive. Lately while driving there seem to be a gentle rattle before big puff of smoke. I seem to have spent more money in topping up with expensive-full synthetic oil in this car then any other. It is a good and comfortable car to drive when it is running good as you are probably aware. Anyway I am a novice but I might try and changing the coil and plugs myself as I am not working at the moment and may be able to save some labor cost. Any tips would be greatly appreciated.
i done 2 sienna spark plug both of them have oil on spark plug at 3 at the back and oil is only at the thread of spark plug .....is that mean head gasket is leak?
Unless there are issues with every coil why would you replace all of them? I have 2 Toyotas and have needed to replace one over 20 years and 400,000 miles of driving. I would never change a working OEM for a non OEM just to change them out.
I have the 2003 Toyota Avalon XLS with a misfire on #1 cylinder. Was able to replace spark plug and coil without removing anything else. The space is very tight, but doable if your hands are small. Will probably have to replace same on #3 and #5 before too long, so I'm thankful for this video!! But for now, I'm firing on all 6 with minimal down time.
I really like this one a lot for most applications: 3/8" Torque Wrench: amzn.to/2XcilOY Make sure it has the torque you need of course but it is a pretty good overall torque wrench.
Lol no problem! Impact sockets are nice but are usually thick. They are safer to use but won't always fit into small spaces. If you are removing a small bolt regular sockets are ok usually but regular sockets can break apart from impact use.
They have been working for 105,500 miles so far updated - 4/2/23 215K miles on the car - car has since been sold so there will be no more updates but the coil packs were still going strong 👍👍
Good work. This is a helpful video.
I figured that leaky valve cover would've soaked the coil by now.
Probably has lol
Should had replaced the leaky gasket while in there!
Agreed, told my buddy that but he just wanted to get the job done and not worry about it
@@TheSundaeDrive he's probably going to sell the car and it will be next owner's problem!
Hello, Trained as a mechanic in 1980. I've watched many videos, and yours is one of the best. Very well done, excellent camera work. The only problem is you make it look too easy and left out all the mandatory cuss words! Keep up the great work!
Edit- just did this job today, the wiring harness near the firewall is a nightmare to work around. I broke every single clip on the 7 connectors I had to disassemble to get at plug#5 because the harness on the 2007 es350 is so tight to the manifold. I wound up buying the gear wrench sockets you used but as it turned out I didn't need them at all I was able to use a standard spark plug socket and a combination of a 4-in a 1-in and a 2-in extension to get into the spark plug well. Using this method you cannot stick the extensions into the well assembled You have to put one in at a time and attach the remaining extensions one at a time and then attach the ratchet last.
What did you have disassemble? I seen other videos taking a whole lot of stuff apart and don't want to go thoough that if I can avoid it!
Dude ,, I change the 6 spark plugs on my 09 ES 350 today following your video ,, thank you for the guidance ...
Nice work! Your welcome
Thanks for posting this vid! I Replaced back 3 coils on my 2007 Camry SE using this method today. I have done spark plug replacement removing the intake as well and this method is a little quicker. It took about an hour and a half (could do it in under an hour next time) and saved having to replace the intake plenum gasket.
The procedure is very close to this video with a few exceptions:
1.) Strut support is more of a tray not a bar.
2.) Wiper motor assembly HAS to be removed in order to get the tray out. Not a big deal just 4 10mm bolts.
3.) Did not remove the L shaped harness support bracket on the left. The harness was taped into a plastic bracket so I cut the tape which allows it to be pulled out. I put a wire tie on it to re-secure it.
Number 5 is a PITA but with patience and finesse can be done.
This video made my coil/spark plug change a breeze and it saved me a lot of money so far... We'll see how long the coils last. Cylinder 3 was a pain but worked out. Thanks again for the tool and part recommendations. They all worked out great. Thanks again!
Awesome! Glad it helped
@@TheSundaeDrive does this also work on an 07 camry, its the same v6 i believe
hey quick question. which packs and plugs did you buy and if they were aftermarket how are they holding up?
The best video for spark plugs I seen , you saved me a lot of time
Awesome!
And money... my dealership wants $1200. I’m not sure if that included new coil packs, but either way.... I’m going to DIY.... or DIMY, rather.
Great video for the do it yourself mechanic. Most videos and forums are showing the torque pounds at around 20 to 21 foot pounds. I checked in a Lexus service manual after you said it was 13 and YOU are correct. Thanks for saving me from stripping out the plug threads in my ES350 cylinder head.
Glad we were able to help!
As a professional master technician, I strongly advise against replacing good working genuine toyota coils with cheap coils. Replace only the faulty coil and try to determine the cause of the coil failure. A coil may have failed from a worn spark plug and/or a lean condition on that cylinder. Carbon build up in the combustion chamber could also overwork the coil. If you're concerned about the condition of the remaining coils, have a qualified technician perform current ramp testing to determine whether or not they may fail in the near future. Repair any possible lean condition that may be overworking the coils in addition to the worn spark plugs.
Misfires on all cylinders could suggest an overall lean engine condition that will need to be repaired to prevent premature failure of the new coils.
I completely agree. I would have replaced the one with an OEM coil and left the rest. My friend is operating on a tight budget and wanted to replace them all. He purchased them before talking with us and we were just helping him out with the installation. I would never use a cheap alternative for coils but in his case it was all he could afford at the time.
Had a friend have Lexus replace a bad coil... three times, on a 12 year old car. When they go they tend to go one at a time. Mechanics sure like return customers.
@@mikepayne5277 yeah they do lol. I would only replace what is needed because I can do the work myself. If going to a mechanic replace them all together.
@@TheSundaeDrive On a 2007 Avalon with same engine, Coil #2 went bad. I replaced it with an OEM Denso. Now Coil #1 just went bad. That is on the back side. As the procedure calls to remove the intake air plenum, I will replace all three coils at once as I only want to perform the lengthy procedure once. I will see if your procedure without removing the intake works on the same year Avalon. The annoying thing is I had replaced the spark plugs at 108,000 miles and removed the plenum for that job. Now at 124,000 miles, I may have to do it again. I would recommend now to replace the back coils when replacing spark plugs. It looks like these coils have a life expectancy of about 100,000 miles.
That's probably a good plan to do while you are in there. Let us know if this method works for your car as well!
Thank you very much. I followed all the instructions on the video and just completed my 07’ es350 with practically no problems
Just finished this job on an '07 ES350; Middle rear coil needed replacement. The video & instructions are good, BUT, if you buy winter gloves marked Large, IMO, this is not the method for you. Large hands - all I was able to accomplish, working in the dark, was tearing up my forearm, while changing the coil & plug on Cylinder #1. Cylinder #3 I found impossible. #5 - Didn't even try.
I threw in the towel, and pulled the intake manifold. Suddenly I could see everything, and it was all accessible. Factory method was much easier than I expected, will cost you an additional $30-$40 in new gaskets.
One more thing, the OP used a one piece 11-inch spark plug wrench, with swivel and extension. IMHO, **too long**, it got in the way doing the Lexus, but, may be perfect for an RX or Highlander. If you're buying one, suggest slightly shorter 10" length.
This comment is correct, cylinder #1 and #3 are tough but i was able to do , however #5 is impossible because wire harness is right on top of coil so even if you loosen the coil there is no room to pull it out no matter what wire connections you pull
I feel your pain. #3 was out. replaced plugs in 2, 4, 6. piece of Cake, Replacing plug # 3 and coil pack. May call it Quits if she runs well. The engineering on these Lexus. They should be shot. Labor for even a simple alternator is a nightmare.
I didn't even know you could do this without removing the intake. Now i'm wondering if there's room on the Highlander and the next gen ES.
Before starting this job, highly recommend you have ignition coil connectors on hand. Connectors are somewhat aggressive and because of exposure to heat, plastic can be brittle. Chances are one or more connectors will break clips. Easy to unpin old connector and install new one. This is important for the rear bank connectors which cannot be accessed with intake installed.
Very good point. We got lucky but always better to be prepared
Great video. If those are iridium spark plugs, I think you aren’t supposed to gap them or check the gap because that scratches off some of the iridium. Haynes manual says it’s unnecessary because they are gapped at the factory.
The retaining clips are extremely brittle for these cars. If yours breaks off don't worry you can still connect it in. I changed spark plugs last year and my ignition coil connectors have not slipped off or anything. You'll be fine 👍 just make sure it's pressed in all the way.
Just received my NGK iridium spark plugs from Amazon, wish me luck on replacing all coil packs and spark plugs. Decided to do ALL since my ES is at 183k miles and I don't know when anything was done last, and with one coil pack going out, just doing em all... Cross your fingers LOL
Why do people waste their money on Amazon... RockAuto have the OEM parts you have to pay the shipping but the part price is actually the cheapest place.
Next time don't use Amazon because the amount of fake items have Increased significantly. Just buy them at AutoZone of Advanced auto part, they sell DENSO oem products. I got mine for around the same price as Amazon.
Brick N' Mortar all the way for me unless the price is significantly less.
I've got about 317 on my 2011 I think it's time for mine to be done as well. How did you know the coil pack was going out?
Excellent video! Thanks for posting this video!I just replaced spark plugs for my 2013 Lexus ES 350 and doing this way instead of removing the intake manifold and throttle body. This way gave me lots of more room to work on the rear three plugs and I didn't have any problem removing the two bolts holding the bracket on top of the rear plug on the passenger side. Thanks again for the video!!!
awesome! I'm glad it helped you
So I'm guessing you removed the windshield wiper tray...he didnt do that step in this video.
Okay...firstly thanks for the video. It was done very well. Nice camera work, great job breaking down all the tools and torque specs. Thanks for linking the tools and parts.
Now for my gripe...I did this today on my 2007 es350. No mater what I did I could not get enough slack in the harness to get the number 5 coil pack out. I wasted at least an hour trying to get enough wiggle room to get the coil pack out. It took me like ten minutes to pull the manifold and air box. Once I did that the coil pack was out in five minutes. I wish I had pulled the manifold first and saved an hour. also I recommend putting something over the pinch weld to protect your left forearm when working from the right side. Eventhough I was wearing long sleeves my forearm is pretty torn up.
They definitely don't give you a lot of room or slack. Sorry to hear it fought you so bad but glad you were able to get the job done!
I only changed the plug and the ignition coil that was bad. Not all of them. Thanks for the video. Great tip.
Did the exact same thing you did .quite a time saver . Have a pick tool handy in case the lower boot tears from the coil while removing it.
Just completed it. I almost gave up on the final plug behind the harness 6 times. Had to get on top of the engine with a really hard pull to get it. It took me an hour just to get to that final tug that release it from the wiring harness. The rest is easy. 225K ES350. Front 3 had oil leaks but these back 3 show no leaks. The cover gaskets in the front had hardened badly so I definitely didn't want to do the work for back valve cover yet. only your video kept me pulling on that wiring harness until gave way because you showed video evidence it could be done. thanks for the detailed video. It did take me much longer than 1 hr because I didn't have that wire clip tool, so I bent something I had into what you showed and those clips finally come right off.
Glad you were able to get it! Definitely a bit hard for that one.
Great video with details! Just the project I needed while sheltering at home. Did it on my 2008 ES350 with 121,000 miles yesterday. Took about 4 hours with slow work, checking and re-checking to make sure I didn't forget something. A test drive afterwords felt as smooth as before. Just a few notes to share. (1) All tabs on the connectors to coils were broken to the lightest touch! (Video 5:03). I think the age of the car has something to do with it, but there is no easy way to fix that, so I'll just check them once in a while. (2) #3 plug (the "middle" one) was indeed the hardest to get to. I have to loosen up a bracket (10mm nut) that is right next to it which holds the cable harness. Still, with that extra wiggle room, getting the coil back in was almost impossible! (3) The thread on the removed plugs showed some grease/stain, but nothing serious. Might be from the hardened valve seal, but not urgent. (4) I have to say the "work space" is REALLY tight for those hidden plugs. Anyone with well-built arms probably should re-consider. Overall, thanks for the fun project!
great tips! Thanks for the feedback
Thank you so much for such a high quality video. Gonna do my 2008 Avalon tomorrow without removing the intake manifold after having watched this video.
edit:
Just changed out all 6 spark plugs, took 4.5 hours. For your interest, here's a list of all the major hiccups I had with my vehicle:
1. removing the wiper blade arms
2. removing the electrical connection shown at 5:40 due to old plastic
3. clearing out all the coils and wires that's covering the rear plugs
4. removing ignition coil 2 and 3 probably due to the vacuum in the chamber
5. removing ignition coil 3 due to all the crap covering it
6. removing spark plug 3 due to all the crap covering it
7. putting back ignition coil 3 due to all the crap covering it
The biggest pain in the f***ing ass is #5. I have no tips or tricks, the whole thing is just a huge fiddle around... not an easy or fun job, in fact it's physically painful. Still think it's worth the work to save $500 + tax at the dealer though.
Not the most fun job for sure. Glad the video helped tho! Thank you for the pointers
@Buddy Boyy It fits?
I had to replace the alternator in 2019 on my 07 es not a fun
job either. Today a code popped up for number 3 coil again for the third time, this time I'm going to install a new
spark plug along with coil.
You were able to do it without removing the plenum and throttle body ? I am in a situation like yours. In some videos they remove the cowl and in some videos they don't. And in some videos the remove the plenum. I have a bad number 5 coil.
Very well done! I hope novice mechanics seek help from seasoned techs to do this. This task is not easy.
Thank you!
Just did this, something I didn't see mentioned in the video: torque the spark plugs to 13 ft-lb.
Also 11 inches was too big, 10 inch worked better. And you may as well replace the ignition coil boots while you have the coils out.
Thanks! Appreciate that feedback. Good to know that the 10" is better
Thank you for the detailed video! I managed to do mine! It turn out the bolt you removed at 7'24'' is very necessary
Glad it helped!
Damn. The GS 350 spark plugs are so much easier to remove compared to the ES 350 and IS 250. Thanks for the video. I've done my spark plugs on my 2015 Lexus GS 350 already.
Also, the effort to reach the rear three, using OEM coil packs are worth the extra cost, IMO
Will this method work on a 2010 Lexus RX 350 ?
respect this man he is a real mechanic...salute
Appreciate it!
I like to take off the plenum and throttle body so I can give them a good cleaning and replace hoses with new ones. Also, changing the oxygen sensor while your back there wouldn't hurt. Spark plugs are changed every 100,000 miles so you might as well do it right.
Not a bad plan. Depending on how much you drive, the other parts may be still be good tho as they tend to wear from age and not mileage.
I have watched many of similar videos. None take a compression test when the plugs are out. If there is a misfire in a cylinder, a bad valve could be a reason. Compression test is a must in those times.
Always possible but in this case, his codes were fixed :)
It's a Toyota
Thanks so much for this video- you and car care nut both helped me do this and figure it out ! Unfortunately when trying to get that upper bolt back in it dropped somewhere in the engine not on the ground. I’ll try and fish it with a magnetic tool but if I can’t what is that bolt called or referred to on the upper bracket ? Thanks again
Right on man. I'm planning on doing this soon and wasn't looking forward to removing the manifold. Thanks!
No problem! Hope this helps you out
This is one of the best helpful video I have seen for replacing sparks plugs. I am wondering if this technique is working for 2010 Toyota Highlander
Glad it is helpful! Haven't done it on a highlander so not sure
Same engine 2gr-fe so should be.
I try to go with the factory 🏭 coils because they have the rubber boots at the bottom
where as the aftermarket ones
are silicone and tear apart when you pull coil out of the
spark plug hole.Had to use
a pick tool to remove leftover
boot material out of spark plug hole.
Good catch! Hadn't noticed that. Oem is always better.
Thank you very much sir. You confirmed what I suspected on this 2007 Lexus ES350 that I was working on with almost the same codes. Replaced the #6 coil, cleared the codes, relearned the computer, and the six banger purrs like a kitten again. Customer is tickled pink.
Woo!
I've built up my jeep and switched to Lexus. Thank you so much for this video!! I afraid there wouldn't be as many videos like there is for Jeeps.
No problem! Glad the video was helpful for you
well the jeep v6 is easier because it's longitudinally mounted but there is also no way of getting to the sparkplugs without removing the intake. Fortunately, you only need a 10 and 8 mm and about 1.5 hrs to do it.
I did this same job on my 07 es350. It was hard to reach, but I used the same tools, you just have to wiggle it in there.
Glad it worked for you
Thanks for this tutorial. Everything went smoothly thanks to your tips. One of the plastic spouts that connect the vacuum lines to the air box snap at the base and the hose cannot connect. Any tips to fix it?
Thanks for the good video. Unfortunately I found spark plug 3 on my car had a bunch of melted plastic around the spark plug. No idea if this was from manufacturing or dealer service. It took me the better part of 2 days to free it by digging at it will a 6" screw driver so I could get the socket to seat and break the plug free. Then I had to clean out the plug threads with a thread chase. With all the messing around I managed to pull the 3 wires out of the sensor just below plug 5. Any idea what this sensor is? I have managed to take the plug off and think I can resolder, Also not 100% sure of the order of the 3 wires. Black is closest to the firewall, yellow next, and red toward the front, is this correct.
Aww man that sucks. You probably need to figure out what happened. I would be concerned that you would have had debris fall down the motor while cleaning the threads. I would suggest dissasmbling the motor a bit to make sure it is clean inside.
@@TheSundaeDrive I used compressed air gun as I was chipping away the plastic to make sure no debris remained. When I was able to break the pug loose I switched to vacuuming using a 3/4" tube. I had to get a thread chaser to clean out the threads so the spark plug would go in easily. I put anti-seize compound on it and could see the plastic junk trapped in the flutes. Got a new camshaft position sensor connector, finally connected the 3 wires up right, and it runs nicely. This was a 5 day job because of everything that went wrong. I think disconnecting the camshaft position sensor would be a good idea, and would have saved me from having to rewire in a new connector. Luckily I had a Toyota mechanic friend of a friend tell that this was a camshaft position sensor and get me a scrap connector I was able to determine connections from schematics on the internet.
Finally you don't mention torque for the strut brace, I am thinking 30 or 40 ft-lbs?
@@bruceski88 Good job, man.
Just an FYI, I have a 2008 Toyota Avalon Limited which (I thought) was nearly identical to the Lexus 07 ES 350 in this video (and most of it is) but wanted to share with anyone reading this that the strut brace you show at 4:35 is (unbelievably) different on my vehicle. Mine does not have 2 bolt connections (visible at least) on the strut tower.... only one. I am not sure if this is better or worse as far as plug accessibility but do know that at least one other video for my car show the windshield wiper motor and then the gutter underneath it removed as well (takes longer to do). Not sure if that is "overkill" and necessary, but that is what they show. Obviously, I was hoping that my car 's engine bay was identical to the one in this video so that my chances of a fast, easy, spark plug replacement is higher. Maybe if I try to do everything else you do and am able to get my strut brace off easily, mine will be easier??????? Who knows.... But I may just go that route and find out for myself!
Ok let us know how it turns out! Best of luck
i have a 06 avalon to work on, did this method work for you?
@@huyhuy123 I have not hit 120K miles yet so I have not changed out the plugs yet.
Did you replace the plugs ? Which method did you use I think the engine bay of the Avalon is smaller than the es350. Did you remove the cowl and plenum both ?
yes, I replaced them a while back. to do so I removed the cowl, the wiper motors, the gutter under the cowl, and the plenum. I had to as there was not enough room to do it any other way.@@pardesi_life
Hey just did mine and on the rear ones that big harness when I pulled on it I ripped the 3 wires that go into the camshaft sensor right below it. There's a yellow, red and black wire but not sure what order they go into the clip, do you by chance know
What tool did you use for the strut brace to get the 14mm bolts out? Only part I’m struggling on lol
geni.us/MLW2861-22_Impact love this tool, use it for so much
Absolutely excellent diy video……perfect. Thanks for putting the torque specs values.
You make it look simple, thanks for the information
It isn't too bad. Hope it helps you out!
Any suggestions on "how to" replace the camshaft position sensor under the air intake? I'm having a really hard time figuring this out
Very good video, on the back which one is number 6 Toyota 3.3 v6
Trying to discern if my plugs need replaced? 2011 Es350 bought a month ago and I noticed chipped paint on the back of the hood which shows they have been done... just bought a '11 model with 135K on the clock.... purrs like a kitten!! My OCD says I should go in and change plugs! the fact that who ever didn't do it correctly isn't a good gauge of what needs done next! okay I talked myself into this project.... AKA peace of mind!
should I replace coils? hmmmm
I would do em both
My #4 plug the rubber boot is stuck on the plug , any ideas how to get it out ? I tried with needle nose pliers its stuck
Try spark plug pliers. They are designed to go around the boot and work well.
Thank you
No problem! Best of luck with it
Great video just bought a 2009 ES350 with 140,000 miles on it now I know what I’m up against but first thing I’m doing is removing the oil filter canister and putting a conversion kit on it so I can use a spin on oil filter don’t like the canister type filter no anti drain back valve
awesome! beat of luck with it!
Looking for the link for the ones you bought that have held up
They are linked but here it is again for ya : MAS Set of 6 Ignition Coils for Lexus Lotus Toyota 3.5l V6 Compatible with C1601 UF-487 UF487 C1601 amzn.to/33q4UeQ
Excellent video, no doubt. But 30+ years of working on my own cars has taught me that it's well worth the little extra time to get something out of your way. Busted knuckles, not being able to see, breaking off clips, that one bolt that you just can't get to... all things that lead to frustration and spending more time than you possibly would've anyway. And GET SOME AIR TOOLS! A 50+ gallon tank, ratchet, and impact wrench are game changers!
NOTE: NEVER use air tools on spark plugs!!!
Lol all true, we have the big air compressor with a lot of air tools as well as a lot of Milwaukees but we wanted to show it in away the average guy at home would have to do it and most people probably don't feel confident enough to remove the cover
@@TheSundaeDrive Excellent points. Keep up the good work.
Will do our best!
Where is ignition coil D located? I can't seem to find any info
The center middle ignition coil closest to you. For future reference the letter of the coil is laid out like this.
With the hood up and you facing the engine.
Ignition Coils rear: A | C | E
Ignition Coils Front: B | D | F
I recently got a check engine, check vsf, and track control error codes. I hooked up the scanner and it gave me this code: P0354 for ignition coil D
So in order to verify that it's actually the ignition coil. I swapped the coils from D and F. You only need a 10mm to remove the bolt holding the coil. I then reset my check engine. I drove for 5 miles and then the check engine came on again. This time it was for ignition coil F. This confirms the ignition coil itself is faulty.
Thanks for the detailed explanation! That will help a lot of people
Is this a similar process for a 2004 RX330?
Thanks man, just changed my LS460 plugs last month, thought I would have to take off the manifold when I decide to change my ES350 plugs but you just saved me from that. 👍💪
Awesome!
Have to do my 15 Sienna and thought the same. Did you just need that swivel spark plug socket like used in his video?
Dang baller alert
So good video overall but I took off the windshield wipers and, after reattaching, they are not working. I can hear the motor trying to make them go but they won’t move. Any tips?
Did you figure it out.
Did mine according to your video. Worked out GREAT! Thank you!
I'm considering doing this myself, my car needs the 120K service (240K actually) and the plugs are part of that. Last time I did the full 120K service at the dealer it was over $1000 (that included a few other services as well though, but the plugs were the most expensive part). I've changed two of the front coils already (they went bad) and that was pretty easy, doing the back looks like a little more work but if you don't have to remove the manifold it doesn't look bad at all. I would keep the original coils and only change the plugs due to miles. I'm seeing the 6 plugs on Amazon for under $40 and a 10" spark plug tool for about $15, so probably well under $70 for all the parts and some labor.
It's not a bad job at all. 1 hour tops and you can save a lot 👍👍
@@TheSundaeDrive Thanks! One question if you can help. I saw some reviews that "fake" iridium spark plugs might be sold on Amazon. I prefer to use the OEM Denso plugs, but there seems to be two (or more) types, 5344 IKH20 and 3426 FK20HR long-life, do you have any opinion on this? I also want to get legit real denso plugs and don't mind paying a little more. It's for a 2007 ES-350.
If you are interested, I got the 3426 NGK plugs for my car, and when I removed the existing plugs which were installed by the Lexus dealer about 8 years ago they were about 1/2 inch shorter than these new plugs (they are labelled "SK16R-P11"). Have you ever heard of that? I was concerned these new plugs were too long but when I watched your video my plugs were the same length as yours (thanks for showing them!), and I double-checked with O'reilly Auto Parts and the 3426s are definitely a match for my car (2007 Lexus ES-350). Also, just an FYI about aftermarket coils, I've had two coils go out on my car, one I replaced with Denso OEM and the other was an aftermarket. Today when I removed the aftermarket coil the "boot" got separated from the coil and was stuck on the spark plug deep in the motor (ugh). It took me almost an hour to get it out. That's the last aftermarket coil I'll be buying, it just isn't worth the trouble in the future. The other two coils (I only did the front today, will do the back next week) came out no problem, easy change of plug etc.
GREAT video thanks! Fantastic clear video quality. Would you kindly tell me how the cheap coils lasted? Thanks heaps, Paul
They are still going strong. No issues yet. I'll get an updated mileage count from the owner but seem to be pretty good.
Thanks for the speedy reply. Yes--it would be good to know the mileage before I commit. Thanks again!
Nicely produced video, but under an hour is quite challenging considering the rear three.
Thanks enjoyed the video. Now the work begins on my es350
Best of luck with it!
At 6:06....what is that hose facing right toward palm? Has a hose clamp on it but looks open?
Awesome video. I had everything to do it ,I used a Makita kit that had a swivel in it . I'll be returning my gaskets lol. Video definitely deserves a 👍🏾. Thank you for your time !!
Awesome! Glad it helped you out!
What is the spark plug gap you need to set?
Really like the race car sounds in the time lapse! Thank for the video!
How can I torque to 7 lb-ft without any gauge? Is there any trick?
Sadly not. Overtime you start to know what is too tight or too loose by feel but it takes practice and still easy to mess up. A good torque wrench or two is worth the investment if you plan to work on your own vehicles.
Liked and subscribed... will be using this for my 2013 Camry Se V6
Question though... is it SOP to change out the coil packs when doing spark plugs? I’m at just over 93K miles, and have the OEM plugs and coil packs still in there.
Also, I see some TH-camrs applying anti-seize around the threads of the new plugs.
Also... would it be necessary to do O2 sensors when doing plugs?
Not necessary to do 02 sensors unless they are bad. At 93K I think your coils are probably still good. If you start having misfires I would change them out but they should last awhile. I'm running original coils on all my vehicles with much higher mileage. I am personally not a fan of antisieze. Newer plugs usually recommend against it. I would verify with the dealer or manufacturer of the plug. Most modern plugs have a coating that protects them. If you do use antisieze make sure it is barely barely any.
hey...what is the mileage of your car? when you did the coil and spark plug replacement
2012 Lexus ES350 -the video is helpful to replace 5 of 6 coils and plugs, however the coil and plug on cylinder #5 are impossible due to the fact that the wire harness sits directly on top of the coil and even if you loosen its not loose enough to pull the coil out. I did 5 of 6 and am hoping for the best. I also noticed the video has the hood taken off, this would save a little back pain if you want to go to the trouble. I did not.
I have a 2011 es350 with 105k. About to change the plugs. You think I should change the coil packs also? How many miles until they should be replaced?
Probably a good time to swap them out.
If you are mechanical and have the tools it's a 2 hours top job. I've done this 3x and mines has 333,339 miles. I always get the skid, vsc, engine lights when it's time to change the plugs. You can't do just the upfront plugs. You have to do them all. You'll find the tips of the plugs burned out.
Mine is a 2011 and has never had a tune up. I am sitting at about 317k miles and i think it's overdue for a tune up and struts now
Can this method work for Avalon 2008?
I'm not positive but very possible
My scan shows I've an issue with number 4 coil, is that located in the back or the front
I believe that is the middle coil towards the front of the car
Also if your ignition coil is giving you trouble...
With you facing the engine and the hood up:
Rear : A | C | E
Front: B | D | F
Very nice video. Appreciate all the knowledge. Where did you get your GearWrench set and the torque wrench?
No problem! Amazon, links are in the description.
where did you buy coil packs
Link is in the description 👍👍
thanks very much for your time and effort
@@marvinkanhai411 no problem! Best of luck with the install!
I was changing my washer fluid and was surprised to see the sensor that connects to the white housing on the left of the plastic intake manifold was disconnected at 5:38. What exactly is that sensor? A clear shot of it is at 6:09
Good video Good teacher. Patience and smart.
We try to do our best! Thank you
Looking to do this on a 2008 Highlander and thought there was no way around removing the intake. This was a very helpful.
were you able to do it this way on the highlander
Hello good day I have a 2009 Toyota venza V6 and looks like the same engine cover and the same engine will that be the same process
It will probably be similar. Haven't worked on that particular model tho
Hi, I just saw your video and I have a question. I replaced coil #1 with Denso Diamond (I bouth them on eBay, now I'm not sure it those were OEM) and I did it about a year ago. Now the car started with the same code P0351 that it's the same coil I changed. Do you happen to know why would the coil started to fail again in such short period of time? Thank you.
There are a lot of fake products online. Very good chance you got a knock off part or there could be something deeper going on.
@@TheSundaeDrive Thank you!
No problem! Best of luck with it.
Spark plug socket set on the way thanks for the video.
No problem!
Thank you so much for this video, I am attempting it at this very moment using your video for reference. I do want to note, that my owners manual says the gap is 0.043"/ 1.1mm and do not gap them.. I have found conflicting directions on this so I am going to leave mine ungapped (btw I am using ruthenium spark plugs, what ever that is lol). I will post here if it all goes well or I had to end up gapping them to have my car run smoothly.
Glad the video is helping and best of luck with it!
This is an excellent video! Thanks for posting.
Do you happen to have the torque specification to be used when re-attaching the strut brace and the windshield wiper arms?
Thanks again!
Windshield wiper bolt torque=16 ft/lbs
Thought I saw a NJ inspection sticker on that Lexus. Where you guys at?
South Jersey
Very good,I had mine changer the cost was very high wish I would of knowledge this then, I have a Toyota Highlander with
401700 miles on it I keep it in good shape. Do hope to get a few 100K out of it. Thanks
Hopefully this helps you for the next change!
Did they ever make a video on changing the rear valve cover gasket?
We have not. If it needs to be replaced in the future we will probably make a video on it
@@TheSundaeDrive Nice. Looking forward to it.
@@TheSundaeDrive How are the ignition coils holding up?
Still working well! Over 144K miles now
You don't need tools to remove the push pins. You just push them down to release and pull them up with your hand. I was doing it few days ago to replace the engine air filter...
Did you use a torque extension calculator to get to 13 ft lbs of torque?
we did not, good think to note that extensions do change the torque values - always use the shortest extension possible
i Wonder if this works on my 2011 Toyota Avalon? it has same engine. i don't want to remove the intake Because it take a lots of time & works.
Not sure! Good chance it will but you won't know unless ya try
Thank you i did not know it was that simple.🤔
glad to help!
Hello mate,
Am from Sydney. I have an RX330 which seems like needs new coil packs and I may do the sparks while at it. I am presuming the process is not to dissimilar to this model in the video. Other issue I have has to deal with for a few years now is white some coming out upon starting especially after long drive. Lately while driving there seem to be a gentle rattle before big puff of smoke. I seem to have spent more money in topping up with expensive-full synthetic oil in this car then any other. It is a good and comfortable car to drive when it is running good as you are probably aware. Anyway I am a novice but I might try and changing the coil and plugs myself as I am not working at the moment and may be able to save some labor cost. Any tips would be greatly appreciated.
What coil packs are these please ?
i done 2 sienna spark plug both of them have oil on spark plug at 3 at the back and oil is only at the thread of spark plug .....is that mean head gasket is leak?
It probably means valve seals or possibly piston rings.
Unless there are issues with every coil why would you replace all of them? I have 2 Toyotas and have needed to replace one over 20 years and 400,000 miles of driving. I would never change a working OEM for a non OEM just to change them out.
Which one is ignition coil #2 on 2003 Lexus es300?
Great video easy to follow
Glad it was helpful!
Pls how do i locate coil B with the code P0352 in a 2008 lexus es 350
It's at the front ..did you manage to find it
I have the 2003 Toyota Avalon XLS with a misfire on #1 cylinder. Was able to replace spark plug and coil without removing anything else. The space is very tight, but doable if your hands are small. Will probably have to replace same on #3 and #5 before too long, so I'm thankful for this video!! But for now, I'm firing on all 6 with minimal down time.
How long did this job take you? I got an 06 that has low circuit voltage on coil 1 but it's not misfiring yet
@@peytonhoward not long on cylinders 1,2,4-6. Just a min or two to replace, but #3 was a bit difficult, prob an hour.
@@user-mn6ze7rm2p good to know. Definitely a little trickier than my truck but that's what YT is for. Thank you!
@@peytonhoward if you've got the funds to replace them all, I'd go ahead. I did my one every other month or so..... No money.
@@user-mn6ze7rm2p yeah they're really expensive, way more than I thought they'd be unfortunately
What torque gun you have there? Or can you recommend a decent one from Amazon? Cause I just tried my manual torque wrench and just broke it. 😫😫
I really like this one a lot for most applications: 3/8" Torque Wrench: amzn.to/2XcilOY Make sure it has the torque you need of course but it is a pretty good overall torque wrench.
for an impact guy - Iove this one: geni.us/MLW2861-20_Impact
Thank you so much. I’m really new to this. First time ever diy on my car. Then the only thing to do is to buy an impact socket set right??
Lol no problem! Impact sockets are nice but are usually thick. They are safer to use but won't always fit into small spaces. If you are removing a small bolt regular sockets are ok usually but regular sockets can break apart from impact use.
Thank you. Makes sense. Now do I have to disconnect the electrical connection up by the windshield. Mine will not disconnect -at all- !
Hello, is it possible to do this procedure without removing intake on a 07 Avalon also 2grfe ?
possibly - hopefully someone else here can weigh in