Pinning my own comment, thankyou for all the feedback, I now regret not including a section at least mentioning that what I showed in the two tapping sections was not at all proper technique, but there are plenty of comments with really good advise that are worth reading. Build guide will be up within the next few days I hope :)
There are 3 taps (with different tapered lead-in) in each thread size set, use them in order, use lubrication 1/2 turn cut, 1 turn back-off and you'll never break a tap. Been tapping holes for 40+ years and can count the number of broken taps on one hand ... and that's tapping everything from 25mm down to 1.5mm threads in everything from brass, aluminium to mild steel.
Some suggestion here. Battery powered screw drivers has a ball clutch, there is settings near the chuck to adjust the torque before de-clutch. It is a mechanism to protect the screw from over torque. This comes in quite handy for taps as you don't want to push the tap too hard. Now for the 1/2 turn cut, 1 turn unwind. That is about the best practice of tapping. If you modify a battery powered screw driver for tapping, may be you can add some circuitry, say with an Arduino. Add a button to operate the 1/2 turn in, 1 turn out cycle. It could be a fun project too.
You only need to back off with straight flute "hand taps". I've mostly seen on cheap no-name taps and I would not recommend buying them. Spiral point (not spiral flute) taps do not need backing off so they are much faster to use as well as higher quality when bought from any kind of name brand. Generally, if there is no DIN/ISO marking on the tap, dont buy it. Notice the head shape between straight flute and spiral point taps www.pgmerlin.co.uk/news/the-different-types-of-taps If I tap holes which I did on a drill press, I usually run the tap with the drill press as well. Largers taps I run by hand but I still use the drill press to center and push down to get the tap started.
If you pour hot wax into the hole before tapping, your taps will last a lot longer. Tap wax not only lubricants but helps clear the fillings from the hole. Like your tapping jig.😊
Thank You, Thank You, Thank You. Like you in the beginning, I too have broken numerous tap bits, I shudder to think on how much I've spent and I could not justify the expense of a commercial tapping guide. Your inventions are a god send, keep up the great work
I don't tap many holes and yet I may still need to make myself one of these. The floating vise is a cool idea as well. One thought, I think where you used the linear ball bearing I think you'd be better off with a bronze (or similar) bushing. You still get the nice tight fit, the smooth axial running and you won't get the squeaking of the balls in the bearing crying out "don't use me in rotational applications".
Having done a lot of hand tapping using a similar stand, I am very impressed by your design but also have some suggestions. A longer and more substantial arm to turn the tap would help if you have to tap a lot of holes. I am generally tapping through holes in aluminum and with smaller spiral point taps (up to 8-32 Imperial), you can run the tap straight through a part. The spiral point pushes the chips through the hole so you don't have to reverse to break them as with standard hand taps. Having a longer arm with handles like the Grizzly tapping stand makes it easy to do so.
Just use a cheap secondhand benchtop drill press with the power cord cut off. You can get them for about US$20 now, sometimes cheaper, and they're crazy sturdy. NOTHING taps as well as an unpowered drill press taps. You set a dead center in the chuck and drop its point into the rear center notch in your tap wrench and you're good to go. After maybe two full turns you just lift the chuck and your tap wrench can be turned freely with no need for any further guiding. PLUS... if you disregarded my suggestion of cutting off the power cord and instead just disabled the power to the drill press... now you also have a perfectly good benchtop drill press that you can use for other stuff. Drilling and handloading and drum sanding and all manner of stuff. 8)
If you need more rigidity than what that (or a hand) provides, you are using the wrong tap/drill combo. The only point of these is to start the tap straight. The part that is basically useless in any shop with any work that requires precision, is the vice. That is what needs a whole lot more rigidity for any "serious" work. That said, it is a neat compact design that would be good for low precision rapid prototyping.
9:25 Neat bit with this i guess too is you could use that same clamped part in other steps/jigs, so this would be great for Assembly Line / “Work Cell” type layouts!
I tap hundreds of very small holes, like 1 mm and I use a tap stand much like this. Mine has a small knurled knob that I turn the tap with using just 2 fingers. My advice is to use plenty of material appropriate lubrication and replace taps more often than you think you should. You get a feel after awhile if a tap isn’t cutting like it should. If I have any doubt, I replace it. Also buy name brand taps, not junk no name stuff from Amazon.
hey bro a trick my dad always taught me, is you can place the tap in a drill press and use that to start a thread (turning the chuck manually rather than turning it on of course)
Nice! I find a tapping chuck + ratchet wrench easier to keep zero with than a standard tap holder. I was thinking of building something like you built, but with different hand tools it's good enough for me.
Cool jig! A good square reference is always a bonus for tapping! Never forget lubricant though. aside from the obvious benefits it also helps the tap form the threads better. for instance: when cutting m3 threads in aluminium, you need to use lubricant otherwise the sticky aluminium will break the edges of the thread. thus resulting in a weird m3.5 loose fitting single use thread.
I have been using the helical machine taps in my electric drill eith clutch for a while and ever since i have not had any issues with breaking taps anymore. Use it in steel and alu with no lubrication. They were just cheap ones from ali.
Kein Spanbrechen, kein passendes Schneidöl oder vergleichbares Medium, da kann der Gewindebohrer nur abbrechen ^^. Vorallem bei schmierenden Materialien oder solche die dazu neigen Aufbauschneiden zu bilden, immer Schneidöl oder bei Alu auch Spiritus benutzen, dann klappts auch. 35 Jahre Gewindeschneiden und 3 Bohrer abgebrochen, das war aber M1,4 ... die brechen auch ab wenn man nur schief kuckt
2:07 hits hard (as design engineer that often need to be present at the plant and need to come up with quick solutions), I do too straggle with my drawings sometimes :D
First video of yours I've seen. Earned a sub for sure. I was about to comment that you could take the whole vise assembly off to tap bigger parts but you thought of everything!
The clamping of the vice to the post is really nice.. and the box organiztion too. But i think a guide for the most used taps, would probably be easier (i will continue to do by eye, a dual axis camera would probably be worth a thought). Still this is very nice. thumbs up.
this is the first time I watched your video. I dont usually subscribe on the first video I watch from a channel but I like the way you make videos, the quality is there, and I like the innovation you're putting out.
Could you make some sort of adaptation of this for a Thermal Threaded Insert Jig? Essentially swap the collet section for a soldering iron (TS80 or Pinecil Maybe?) (Or just whatever you have/can easily get (price+availability too!, can always make adapters), that CNC Kitchen Soldering Iron Press Tip, and it basically would be good to go!
I have been lucky not to break one, but I use plenty of oil to help lube the threads of the tap, Hell even grease helps and catch filings as well. but things very on size and material as well
COOL TOOL.... I love tapping like I love snow.. Its more fun to watch than to be in it. I think this tool is a great idea especially the vise setup. Couldn't the Z, and X be made from 2020 extrusion? That way you can use any logical length for height and arm? Not trying to re-invent the tool Just thinking,
check out flex arms. i've used them at work and they work the same as this with wider range of motion. you can attach a pneumatic tap gun to it as well. i haven't broken any taps by hand. if there's a lot of force i back off clear the chips and proceed. also you must try tap magic. and get respectable name brand taps. it makes a huge difference. i like YG1 taps. (i think they're Canadian) i struggled with boring out holes instead of threading and making my own screws until i changed my tools. the cheap Chinese taps i first bought on amazon were absolutely horrible. the cheap dies were the worst and made me wonder what i was doing wrong. which was buying cheap tools.
Thats a very nice design and I would like to make one of these but I would like to combine the storage also so everything is contained within one unit.
Its coming along, has been a much bigger process than anticipated but it is working well, but as a rule im trying to properly test projects before releasing them so stuff is taking longer, but within the next month or two hopefully.
What do you do if you want to tap something That's taller and does not fit in underneath this setup. Do you have an extension for the pillar? Otherwise, thanks for a good video!
When you tap do you go 1/2 forward and then 1/4 turn back? This should be done to break the shards. Going backwards and using tap fluids(an oil) will reduce the chances of braking a tap
Some little advice from some Germany CNC (God) :D In Tapping the price of the tap makes the difference in quality, some 100€ Tap will make 5000Treaths whitout breaking, some 20€ Tap will rip appart after 800Treaths. And Taping oil has his name not for joke^^ Its strange, and i still cant explain it, but there are some big differences in the base Material of Machine Taps, that somtimes make them unbreakable. I even had some M3 Taps that Treathet whitout a hole in some thin aluminium parts, of cors the parts ware scrap but the Tap wasent :D
oil thy tap, and go forward a bit, then back off a bit, then go forward a little more, and in such a manner continue. the jig is still a good idea, but these methods will help lengthen the life of your taps
Use the tap n°1 , rotate slowlly 90° and return back. again 90°, returne back and do this 3 times before you go for the next 90°. Then tap n°2 and finally tap n° 3.
How about adding an Arduino and a stepper to do the rotation and back off rotation. And if you can also set the torque, that can help prevent breaking of delicate taps like say m2.
Nice tool, but i don’t think it’s really necessary. Just get proper machine taps and use a cordless drill or a drillpress with a reverse switch. I have a set from Garant sold by Hoffmann Group and just broke one M3 in copper, because i didn‘t use lubricant.
I've had better success with using taps which have spiral-shaped flutes. I'm not very good with the straight ones and I still have a couple of blocked holes in my DIY CNC where I just left tap fragments in and added new holes by the side 🙂
![F.HERO Ft. JSPKK x ลำไย ไหทองคำ x M-PEE - ไม่สนิทบิดหมด (Thai Riders Anthem) [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kPJZ0UihBfk/mqdefault.jpg)
Pinning my own comment, thankyou for all the feedback, I now regret not including a section at least mentioning that what I showed in the two tapping sections was not at all proper technique, but there are plenty of comments with really good advise that are worth reading. Build guide will be up within the next few days I hope :)
There are 3 taps (with different tapered lead-in) in each thread size set, use them in order, use lubrication 1/2 turn cut, 1 turn back-off and you'll never break a tap. Been tapping holes for 40+ years and can count the number of broken taps on one hand ... and that's tapping everything from 25mm down to 1.5mm threads in everything from brass, aluminium to mild steel.
Some suggestion here.
Battery powered screw drivers has a ball clutch, there is settings near the chuck to adjust the torque before de-clutch. It is a mechanism to protect the screw from over torque. This comes in quite handy for taps as you don't want to push the tap too hard.
Now for the 1/2 turn cut, 1 turn unwind. That is about the best practice of tapping. If you modify a battery powered screw driver for tapping, may be you can add some circuitry, say with an Arduino. Add a button to operate the 1/2 turn in, 1 turn out cycle. It could be a fun project too.
You only need to back off with straight flute "hand taps". I've mostly seen on cheap no-name taps and I would not recommend buying them. Spiral point (not spiral flute) taps do not need backing off so they are much faster to use as well as higher quality when bought from any kind of name brand. Generally, if there is no DIN/ISO marking on the tap, dont buy it.
Notice the head shape between straight flute and spiral point taps www.pgmerlin.co.uk/news/the-different-types-of-taps
If I tap holes which I did on a drill press, I usually run the tap with the drill press as well. Largers taps I run by hand but I still use the drill press to center and push down to get the tap started.
I've tapped 0-80 before and was instructed to do it by holding the part and use a drill and drill slowly by hand, of course one broke....
Best comment here, while it's a nice project good tapping proceedure should be first and foremost.
I opened the comments looking for this one 👍
You mean taps aren't supposed to be single use?? This will change my life completely! Fantastic video as always man!
I always thought that was kind of fishy.
I have a feeling that there is some kind of fetish of removal of broken tap.
@@lpjunction best comment yet , in Dutch I would say, ik ga stuk
is that sarcasm?
@@lpjunction ok, I don't normally kink shame but that's despicable.
If you pour hot wax into the hole before tapping, your taps will last a lot longer. Tap wax not only lubricants but helps clear the fillings from the hole. Like your tapping jig.😊
Thank You, Thank You, Thank You. Like you in the beginning, I too have broken numerous tap bits, I shudder to think on how much I've spent and I could not justify the expense of a commercial tapping guide. Your inventions are a god send, keep up the great work
I can see by the comments that your ingenuity, and potential is sparking peoples creativity.
I don't tap many holes and yet I may still need to make myself one of these. The floating vise is a cool idea as well. One thought, I think where you used the linear ball bearing I think you'd be better off with a bronze (or similar) bushing. You still get the nice tight fit, the smooth axial running and you won't get the squeaking of the balls in the bearing crying out "don't use me in rotational applications".
Nicely done. I like the way you have used threaded rod to increase rigidity.
Amazing Open Source Hardware *AND* The video is high quality?!? Damn good stuff!
1:25 and 3:25 ‘s Graphics are just *chef’s kiss* wonderful!
Having done a lot of hand tapping using a similar stand, I am very impressed by your design but also have some suggestions. A longer and more substantial arm to turn the tap would help if you have to tap a lot of holes. I am generally tapping through holes in aluminum and with smaller spiral point taps (up to 8-32 Imperial), you can run the tap straight through a part. The spiral point pushes the chips through the hole so you don't have to reverse to break them as with standard hand taps. Having a longer arm with handles like the Grizzly tapping stand makes it easy to do so.
Just use a cheap secondhand benchtop drill press with the power cord cut off. You can get them for about US$20 now, sometimes cheaper, and they're crazy sturdy.
NOTHING taps as well as an unpowered drill press taps. You set a dead center in the chuck and drop its point into the rear center notch in your tap wrench and you're good to go. After maybe two full turns you just lift the chuck and your tap wrench can be turned freely with no need for any further guiding.
PLUS... if you disregarded my suggestion of cutting off the power cord and instead just disabled the power to the drill press... now you also have a perfectly good benchtop drill press that you can use for other stuff. Drilling and handloading and drum sanding and all manner of stuff. 8)
all i would change about the design is adding struts to improve rigidity, but functionally and price wise this is great! :)
If you need more rigidity than what that (or a hand) provides, you are using the wrong tap/drill combo. The only point of these is to start the tap straight. The part that is basically useless in any shop with any work that requires precision, is the vice. That is what needs a whole lot more rigidity for any "serious" work. That said, it is a neat compact design that would be good for low precision rapid prototyping.
2:20 Open Source and Modular Designing’s Advantages in a Nutshell
Brilliant! Well thought out and researched. Just got my first 3D printer and this shows me the potential for creating amazing job aides.
I love the design language and utility of this, it's excellent.
I'd like to propose an attachment that allows you to fit threaded inserts!
for starters if your breaking taps use more than one hand and back it off once it feels even slightly tight
Exactly, you gotta break the chips!
Came here to say the same, break the chip. I'm a noob but not once have I broken a tap
awesome construction!! just a little tip: use some grease on your taps. it makes life so much easier and they last much longer.
This jig made from steel would be perfect. Good job and good idea.
9:25 Neat bit with this i guess too is you could use that same clamped part in other steps/jigs, so this would be great for Assembly Line / “Work Cell” type layouts!
Hi Chris, awesome build! Perhaps another interesting build would be a engraving pantograph/ gravograph
I tap hundreds of very small holes, like 1 mm and I use a tap stand much like this. Mine has a small knurled knob that I turn the tap with using just 2 fingers. My advice is to use plenty of material appropriate lubrication and replace taps more often than you think you should. You get a feel after awhile if a tap isn’t cutting like it should. If I have any doubt, I replace it. Also buy name brand taps, not junk no name stuff from Amazon.
Neat rig!
Really beautiful work. We shared this video on our homemade tools forum this week, and people really liked it 😎
hey bro a trick my dad always taught me, is you can place the tap in a drill press and use that to start a thread (turning the chuck manually rather than turning it on of course)
Nice!
I find a tapping chuck + ratchet wrench easier to keep zero with than a standard tap holder.
I was thinking of building something like you built, but with different hand tools it's good enough for me.
Bloody hell, the thingamajig I didn’t know I needed. Ta Chris.
I have literally been looking for something like this for ages. Thanks heaps man
"I struggle to understand my own drawings sometimes" really hits home, especially after a few months or years of not looking at a given project!😝
Awesome design! If you weren't aware, tapping fluid/cutting oil will help greatly.
Cool jig! A good square reference is always a bonus for tapping! Never forget lubricant though. aside from the obvious benefits it also helps the tap form the threads better. for instance: when cutting m3 threads in aluminium, you need to use lubricant otherwise the sticky aluminium will break the edges of the thread. thus resulting in a weird m3.5 loose fitting single use thread.
I have been using the helical machine taps in my electric drill eith clutch for a while and ever since i have not had any issues with breaking taps anymore. Use it in steel and alu with no lubrication. They were just cheap ones from ali.
Kein Spanbrechen, kein passendes Schneidöl oder vergleichbares Medium, da kann der Gewindebohrer nur abbrechen ^^. Vorallem bei schmierenden Materialien oder solche die dazu neigen Aufbauschneiden zu bilden, immer Schneidöl oder bei Alu auch Spiritus benutzen, dann klappts auch. 35 Jahre Gewindeschneiden und 3 Bohrer abgebrochen, das war aber M1,4 ... die brechen auch ab wenn man nur schief kuckt
2:07 hits hard (as design engineer that often need to be present at the plant and need to come up with quick solutions), I do too straggle with my drawings sometimes :D
First video of yours I've seen. Earned a sub for sure. I was about to comment that you could take the whole vise assembly off to tap bigger parts but you thought of everything!
This is awesome! I cannot wait for the build video
Nice design being able to swap jaws with your other vise.
I think you may not be turning the tap enough in reverse to fully break the chip. Try 1 full turn in reverse. Also lubricant helps alot!
Chris, what a great tool. Thank you for this video.
Great design and amazing printing quality. Congratulations for the video!
Excellent work as always Chris.
The clamping of the vice to the post is really nice.. and the box organiztion too. But i think a guide for the most used taps, would probably be easier (i will continue to do by eye, a dual axis camera would probably be worth a thought). Still this is very nice. thumbs up.
I highly recommend the Video "Tapping Essentials" from Haas Automation. There's so much to know just about the geometry of different taps.
I just use my drill press , lathe or milling machine , just toss a center in the chuck and follow the tap down .
excellent design! 👏😎
this is the first time I watched your video. I dont usually subscribe on the first video I watch from a channel but I like the way you make videos, the quality is there, and I like the innovation you're putting out.
Could you make some sort of adaptation of this for a Thermal Threaded Insert Jig?
Essentially swap the collet section for a soldering iron (TS80 or Pinecil Maybe?) (Or just whatever you have/can easily get (price+availability too!, can always make adapters), that CNC Kitchen Soldering Iron Press Tip, and it basically would be good to go!
Although as you pointed out in 2:36 , you may come up with some “polishing fixes” and ideas as you go along the development process.
Looks like a great outcome
I don't work with taps often enough to justify making this but it looks fantastic!
Looking at your sketches just shows how in our minds designs look so much better than on the paper xD
Get a set of parallels and cutting oil. Nicely done, I'd like to build this. I'm curious about your CNC machine
Hello
Nice work and thank you for this free sharing of your work, I really appreciate it.
Saw this the other day, Love it.
wow! brilliant system design!
I have been lucky not to break one, but I use plenty of oil to help lube the threads of the tap, Hell even grease helps and catch filings as well. but things very on size and material as well
You tab half a turn clockwise and a quarter turn anticlockwise.
Do it, so the scraped of metal breaks and you tap won't break as easily ;)
Very cool to make stuff like this, love it!
COOL TOOL.... I love tapping like I love snow.. Its more fun to watch than to be in it.
I think this tool is a great idea especially the vise setup. Couldn't the Z, and X be made from 2020 extrusion? That way you can use any logical length for height and arm? Not trying to re-invent the tool Just thinking,
Could you modify possibly so you could change out for a soldering iron for heat inserting
Would love to see your design process. Great video.
check out flex arms. i've used them at work and they work the same as this with wider range of motion. you can attach a pneumatic tap gun to it as well.
i haven't broken any taps by hand. if there's a lot of force i back off clear the chips and proceed.
also you must try tap magic. and get respectable name brand taps. it makes a huge difference. i like YG1 taps. (i think they're Canadian)
i struggled with boring out holes instead of threading and making my own screws until i changed my tools.
the cheap Chinese taps i first bought on amazon were absolutely horrible. the cheap dies were the worst and made me wonder what i was doing wrong. which was buying cheap tools.
Thats a very nice design and I would like to make one of these but I would like to combine the storage also so everything is contained within one unit.
Tapping fluid my friend. it will make tapping your parts go so much smoother, and make your taps last significantly longer
very cool, just wondering how the rigidity of the boom arm is, would it be easier to make some parts out of metal?
Pretty inspiring project! good job!
When are you planning to release the new die filer? :) I'd love to build one
Its coming along, has been a much bigger process than anticipated but it is working well, but as a rule im trying to properly test projects before releasing them so stuff is taking longer, but within the next month or two hopefully.
@@Borgedesigns thanks for the reply, I'll be waiting for any videos about it 😊 keep up the good work
What do you do if you want to tap something That's taller and does not fit in underneath this setup. Do you have an extension for the pillar? Otherwise, thanks for a good video!
FYI:
FEWER taps not less taps
Awesome, going to print this.
Great design by the way! great work!
When you tap do you go 1/2 forward and then 1/4 turn back?
This should be done to break the shards.
Going backwards and using tap fluids(an oil) will reduce the chances of braking a tap
very clever, you are so skilled
You could just lube the tap, then it wouldn't break anymore. Or drill the hole slightly larger if it's a deep one. Like a tenth of a millimeter larger
You should look into tap blocks.
Some little advice from some Germany CNC (God) :D
In Tapping the price of the tap makes the difference in quality, some 100€ Tap will make 5000Treaths whitout breaking, some 20€ Tap will rip appart after 800Treaths.
And Taping oil has his name not for joke^^
Its strange, and i still cant explain it, but there are some big differences in the base Material of Machine Taps, that somtimes make them unbreakable.
I even had some M3 Taps that Treathet whitout a hole in some thin aluminium parts, of cors the parts ware scrap but the Tap wasent :D
Did you use tap fluid and constantly backing out the tap a few turns to clear out the cuttings to prevent breaking taps?
oil thy tap,
and go forward a bit, then back off a bit, then go forward a little more, and in such a manner continue.
the jig is still a good idea, but these methods will help lengthen the life of your taps
This is a cool idea. Do you have any problems with rigidity of the 3D printers parts?
Use the tap n°1 , rotate slowlly 90° and return back. again 90°, returne back and do this 3 times before you go for the next 90°. Then tap n°2 and finally tap n° 3.
You need to use oil on the tap, it won't break
Lubrication is key, back forth, back forth, blow debris... easy.
How about adding an Arduino and a stepper to do the rotation and back off rotation. And if you can also set the torque, that can help prevent breaking of delicate taps like say m2.
Chris are you going to post the revised die filer video any time real soon?
Nice tool, but i don’t think it’s really necessary. Just get proper machine taps and use a cordless drill or a drillpress with a reverse switch. I have a set from Garant sold by Hoffmann Group and just broke one M3 in copper, because i didn‘t use lubricant.
Whats the point of the spring?
Versatile tool.. Thumbs up to you
uhh do they not have tap oil in the UK?
Song at 1:08? I recognize it from a game or somewhere but I can't remember where...
Hi Chris, cool project. Will you be adding a BOM to the thingiverse and printables sites?
Hi, its up now, build guide will be out sometime in the next week :)
Brilliant, thanks!
Nice jig.
Fewer taps. Not less taps. "Fewer " is used with units - 'less' is for mass amounts and fluids.
Great project. Is it all PLA except the TPU jaws?
PLA, ABS of PETG will all work just fine. your choice.
As Jacob said any will work but I use PLA
Do you also tap, thread 3d printed parts ?
nice build
AWESOME! I'm going to see if my crappy ALDI printer can handle this :)
I've had better success with using taps which have spiral-shaped flutes. I'm not very good with the straight ones and I still have a couple of blocked holes in my DIY CNC where I just left tap fragments in and added new holes by the side 🙂
Gday, what program are you using to design all of your stuff?
gotta love the minecraft music
um, just use a tap follower/guide in your drill press
This is really cool, if possible, what are the other things in this 300 series?
Well this is number the first tool so I havent released anything else officially, but the die filer will likely be tool two when it comes out.