Thanks for taking the time to put this together. My Dad (85) recently bought a '31, and despite it's sharp appearance, needed some fairly thorough work done on the undercarriage. Pretty much everything; springs, shackles, kingpins and of course the brakes, he's done all on his own. New brakes is the final part of pretty much an entirely new brake/suspension/steering system, and they're next. We'll be using this for general reference. New subscriber, and thanks again.
Excellent video. Both my 29 Model A coupe with rod actuated mechanical brakes and my 37 Ford pickup with sheathed cable actuated brakes stop better than my 40 Fordor sedan with Lockheed hydraulic brakes.
@@Maine_A_S The truck needed new cables due to lack of service over the years. I bought four NOS cables from Joe's Antique Auto in MA. They attach at the X member to a small cross shaft operated by the brake pedal with a short rod to the cross shaft. The shoes are self energizing with different hold down springs that assist the operation. Southside Obsolete has sets of the cables, too. If you remove the existing cables you can free them up for reuse….but I didn’t figure that out until later on.
Im working on a 28 Hupmobile model M with midland steeldraulic brakes, they are mechanical brakes with a steel cable that actuates the cam in the brake shoe.
@@Maine_A_S sure is I bought the car last year just about got it roadworthy, car had been off the road since the 50s can’t wait for the warm weather to really get out on the road
Great content. I have a 1930 pickup that I bought 5 years ago. My son and I took it out of storage late last fall and brought it home . The engine would not turn over and all the linkage and joints were froze But the breaks worked. we have since got the engine to turn over and are now looking for a carb kit. The gas tank is full of crud so I guess we are going to use a lawnmower tank until we clean the take out . I really didn't know squat about the "A" until I started to watch your channel, and some others . I want to thank you for all the good information you have given me . We hope to have the "A" running in a few weeks and am looking forward to seeing all the good information you have . Where would you suggest I could get a carb. kit and maybe those break adapter kits you were talking about. Thank and keep up the good work.
Thanks for watching and I'm glad it was helpful. Most parts suppliers carry carb kits but Renners Corner is a great source for carb parts and information. I got the brake parts from Snyders. I buy most of my parts from them. Good luck with the project.
My English isn’t that great to follow up all of your valuable information. Just I would like to know, if you don’t mind, how long should the breaking distance for a model a , 1927-31, let’s say with a speed of 30 mph and 50 mph, if the brake system and shoes are in a regular used but good condition.I m be quiet sure you’re the right guy to let me know. Thank you so much.
Flat Head Ted says to remove the top spring (which scares the heck out of me). I notice you are using the Flat Head Ted system, but maintaining the top spring. Thoughts?
Honestly, I didn't pay real close attention to the instructions when installing it. I'm not sure why he would recommend that but the brakes seem to work fine with that spring still in place.
My uncle was a car guy from way back(he would be over 100 now)... My grandfather bought a 1937 Ford new and he said that Model A brakes were great, but the '37 were not reliable because they were so inconsistant!
Properly adjusted mechanical brakes can lock up your wheels when braking hard. If you can lockup the brakes, then why bother with hydraulic breaks as they will not stop your car any sooner.
There is a lot more to braking than locking up tires. Brake fade us the big issue with stock A brakes. The crappy steel drums get hot and then you have little to no brakes. It's a pretty decent system with cast iron drums.
Haha Model A Fords barely get up to highway speeds mechanical brakes are fine since they are slow and relatively lightweight cars. Also what would happen if you had powerful brakes with those skinny bicycle sized tires you'd just skid out more powerful brakes wouldn't be to any advantage IMHO
Thanks for watching. I agree that mechanical brakes are adequate. The downside to them is that they can be very expensive to repair if everything is worn. The other thing to consider is brake stamina and not just power. The stock steel drums get hot easily and can cause brake fade.
Awesome bud.How long will it take to get to you from New Hampshire? When the snow and ice are gone we'll take a road trip.Great vid. All my stuff is new on our 28.I went with all original.New cast drums,brakes are fantabulas .thx
This is the best Explanation I've seen , thanks Mate
Thanks for watching
Thanks for taking the time to put this together. My Dad (85) recently bought a '31, and despite it's sharp appearance, needed some fairly thorough work done on the undercarriage. Pretty much everything; springs, shackles, kingpins and of course the brakes, he's done all on his own. New brakes is the final part of pretty much an entirely new brake/suspension/steering system, and they're next. We'll be using this for general reference. New subscriber, and thanks again.
Thanks for watching. That sounds like a great project and should keep him busy for a while. What body style is it?
@@Maine_A_S It's a Tudor. And btw, it came from Maine. Green w/yellow wheels (Chicle drab?)
Excellent video. Both my 29 Model A coupe with rod actuated mechanical brakes and my 37 Ford pickup with sheathed cable actuated brakes stop better than my 40 Fordor sedan with Lockheed hydraulic brakes.
I don't have a lot of experience with the cable brakes. How do you like them compared to the earlier style?
@@Maine_A_S The truck needed new cables due to lack of service over the years. I bought four NOS cables from Joe's Antique Auto in MA. They attach at the X member to a small cross shaft operated by the brake pedal with a short rod to the cross shaft. The shoes are self energizing with different hold down springs that assist the operation. Southside Obsolete has sets of the cables, too. If you remove the existing cables you can free them up for reuse….but I didn’t figure that out until later on.
Thanks for teaching us a thing or two about mechanical brakes you got a new subscriber. See you soon.
Thanks for watching and subscribing.
Good info. Very similar to what I’m running on my 30A.
Thanks for watching.
Im working on a 28 Hupmobile model M with midland steeldraulic brakes, they are mechanical brakes with a steel cable that actuates the cam in the brake shoe.
That sounds like an interesting setup. Is it difficult to find parts for?
@@Maine_A_S sure is I bought the car last year just about got it roadworthy, car had been off the road since the 50s can’t wait for the warm weather to really get out on the road
Perfect, thanks for sharing your knowledge. Keep on going buddy!
Thanks for watching.
Great content. I have a 1930 pickup that I bought 5 years ago. My son and I took it out of storage late last fall and brought it home . The engine would not turn over and all the linkage and joints were froze But the breaks worked. we have since got the engine to turn over and are now looking for a carb kit. The gas tank is full of crud so I guess we are going to use a lawnmower tank until we clean the take out . I really didn't know squat about the "A" until I started to watch your channel, and some others . I want to thank you for all the good information you have given me . We hope to have the "A" running in a few weeks and am looking forward to seeing all the good information you have . Where would you suggest I could get a carb. kit and maybe those break adapter kits you were talking about. Thank and keep up the good work.
Thanks for watching and I'm glad it was helpful. Most parts suppliers carry carb kits but Renners Corner is a great source for carb parts and information. I got the brake parts from Snyders. I buy most of my parts from them. Good luck with the project.
Great video, very informative
Thank you.
Good stuff, thanks for the video
Thanks for watching.
Just a great video 👍 new subscriber here, glad to have found your channel
Thank you very much. There will be much more to come.
Great explanation - I hate seeing these cars modified. As Jay Leno says “original and unrestored” is the best.
Thanks for watching. I don't mind some of the modifications but there are some that I don't think are necessary.
Good video
Thank you.
My English isn’t that great to follow up all of your valuable information. Just I would like to know, if you don’t mind, how long should the breaking distance for a model a , 1927-31, let’s say with a speed of 30 mph and 50 mph, if the brake system and shoes are in a regular used but good condition.I m be quiet sure you’re the right guy to let me know. Thank you so much.
Thanks for the question. I'm not sure what the braking distance should be. The original size tires are so narrow that they slide pretty easily.
Flat Head Ted says to remove the top spring (which scares the heck out of me). I notice you are using the Flat Head Ted system, but maintaining the top spring. Thoughts?
Honestly, I didn't pay real close attention to the instructions when installing it. I'm not sure why he would recommend that but the brakes seem to work fine with that spring still in place.
My uncle was a car guy from way back(he would be over 100 now)... My grandfather bought a 1937 Ford new and he said that Model A brakes were great, but the '37 were not reliable because they were so inconsistant!
I guess there is a reason that they only used them for 2 years. Thanks for watching.
Properly adjusted mechanical brakes can lock up your wheels when braking hard. If you can lockup the brakes, then why bother with hydraulic breaks as they will not stop your car any sooner.
There is a lot more to braking than locking up tires. Brake fade us the big issue with stock A brakes. The crappy steel drums get hot and then you have little to no brakes. It's a pretty decent system with cast iron drums.
Haha Model A Fords barely get up to highway speeds mechanical brakes are fine since they are slow and relatively lightweight cars. Also what would happen if you had powerful brakes with those skinny bicycle sized tires you'd just skid out more powerful brakes wouldn't be to any advantage IMHO
Thanks for watching. I agree that mechanical brakes are adequate. The downside to them is that they can be very expensive to repair if everything is worn. The other thing to consider is brake stamina and not just power. The stock steel drums get hot easily and can cause brake fade.
Awesome bud.How long will it take to get to you from New Hampshire? When the snow and ice are gone we'll take a road trip.Great vid. All my stuff is new on our 28.I went with all original.New cast drums,brakes are fantabulas .thx
Thanks for watching. I'm a little over an hour from the NH border.
Seriously.That's awesome.Ill be in touch