This made me appreciate the fact I made a (3d printed) drybox with a reverse bowden tube, keeping the filament dry during prints. I just assumed it would be a good idea (especially since I do get 90% humidity during rainy summer days), so I never actually printed TPU without it. Now I see what would happen if I didn't have it.
A similar type of adhesive to the Shoe Goo or Amazing Goop stuff is the classic E6000 craft adhesive (also available where that “wall decor” came from) which works quite well with TPU (and maintains a semi-flexible bond. I think those are all very similar (but slightly different) formulations. I have also used E6000 to repair a delaminating sole on some hiking boots and it has held up for a few years. I think the E6000 stuff is the best for general purpose. But it does dry up within a few months after opening, so it’s better to buy a few of the smaller tubes in a pack rather than a big one.
Shoe Goo and E6000 are nearly identical with the main difference being shoe goo uses a flammable solvent white E6000 uses non flammable solvents (made by same company BTW). I use to use Shoe Goo when I worked for Showbiz Pizza Place to glue character masks (cuts, rips, fur...) that was in the early 80's. They also have Household Goop (same exact product as shoe Goo, just different marketing).
Great practical print! I live in a very humid place so I typically print TPU directly from an active dryer box. Works great for as long as you need it to.
Hey! I made something like this recently! Just printed a foot for a cane out of TPU. The cork for grip is a nice touch. A razor is pretty handy for prying prints up cleanly. Ol' #21 exacto blade is my most trusty tool for the job. Concentric top bottom layers may reduce paths for stringing to occur in similar prints. Sorry for un-solicited advice. Great Video!
thx, I turned that on for this week's prints. I had this on for my TPU profile in my old slicer and was surprised to see it wasn't on by default on Orca.
I wish I could find a dry box that actually held the temps needed for drying/keeping dry. All the ones I've tested do not meet spec when I've measured them :(
@FunctionalPrintFriday drying and keeping dry are two different jobs. I have a modified food dehydrator for drying. It can easily get and keep the air at 10% and 50 c for the whole time it is running. (I use a PIC to regulate the temperature. ) Once it is dry, I use cheap plastic cereal boxes to hold it with desiccant until needed and while printing. Longer term storage is in vacuum bags with desiccant.
@@GlennBrockett yeh, I use a "magic mill" food dehydrator for the actual drying and it works geat. I just wish the boxes sold as "dryers" that you can print from actually did what they were marketed to do
Bet the original foot is TPU/TPE. Because silicone takes time to set, so it's fundamentally more expensive to mass cast. The difference is likely to be in the surface texture that they can can produce with a processed mold under pressure vs. how the material settles while 3D printing under surface tension. Our prints are likely to be microscopically smoother, while the mould can have micro texture for a slight gecko feet effect. It can also be in durometer, we usually print with somewhat harder material and rely on voids to make up the macroscopic compliance that we need.
I'm still 90%+ in the download and print phase. I'm starting to learn Fusion360 and have printed a couple of things. Hopeful to be able to get closer to your level of skill some day.
Cork seems like a bad idea for this. You can buy all sorts of sizes of adhesive backed rubber feet at the hardware store. And you can still do the foot thing so you can put a larger one on and make it secure. They also make feet that have a hold in the center to put a screw in to screw it to the leg. I think a sheet metal screw would work well here for this.
I would say cork is overkill coz tpu with hilbert curve or just bit uneven contact point/surface will grab to any flooring. I printed leg protectors for Ikea Frosvi chairs and those are working pretty good (sidrnote they have to stay firmly on the leg of the chair so I had to use a bit of electrical tape on the leg itself coz smooth walls didnt wanted to grab to wood as much). But ohnestly that cork insert just looks neat.
@FunctionalPrintFriday I’m getting pretty comfortable printing lots of different types of models and materials, but I have no real CAD experience. I want to learn Sketchup and Fusion360, but I’m wondering if you have any advice for where to start? Online videos/courses? I feel like I need the structure of a course with assignments and samples to really dedicate myself to it.
@@FunctionalPrintFriday I did try OnShape once a few months ago, but was going in without any tutorials or guides, so I didn’t get anything accomplished. I’m just having trouble getting motivated to do much this summer 😕
Nobody ever paid full price for that item, it's in a class that's perpetually at least "30% off marked" which is an annoyance with shopping there. Just put the price!
This made me appreciate the fact I made a (3d printed) drybox with a reverse bowden tube, keeping the filament dry during prints. I just assumed it would be a good idea (especially since I do get 90% humidity during rainy summer days), so I never actually printed TPU without it. Now I see what would happen if I didn't have it.
Put a steel washer inside the caps to prevent ‘cut-through’ of the legs.
My $0.02,
Ken
A similar type of adhesive to the Shoe Goo or Amazing Goop stuff is the classic E6000 craft adhesive (also available where that “wall decor” came from) which works quite well with TPU (and maintains a semi-flexible bond. I think those are all very similar (but slightly different) formulations. I have also used E6000 to repair a delaminating sole on some hiking boots and it has held up for a few years. I think the E6000 stuff is the best for general purpose. But it does dry up within a few months after opening, so it’s better to buy a few of the smaller tubes in a pack rather than a big one.
Must be different E6000 to what I got from amazon, it wont even stick to the overture TPU I am using , just peels off.
Shoe Goo and E6000 are nearly identical with the main difference being shoe goo uses a flammable solvent white E6000 uses non flammable solvents (made by same company BTW). I use to use Shoe Goo when I worked for Showbiz Pizza Place to glue character masks (cuts, rips, fur...) that was in the early 80's. They also have Household Goop (same exact product as shoe Goo, just different marketing).
thx, didn't know this and appreciate the history
Lately I print TPU straight out of the dryer while it's running. Makes a great difference in the quality.
Great practical print! I live in a very humid place so I typically print TPU directly from an active dryer box. Works great for as long as you need it to.
"avoid crossing perimeters" is also a good way to avoid stringing if you don't have a good filament drying option.
Hey! I made something like this recently! Just printed a foot for a cane out of TPU. The cork for grip is a nice touch. A razor is pretty handy for prying prints up cleanly. Ol' #21 exacto blade is my most trusty tool for the job. Concentric top bottom layers may reduce paths for stringing to occur in similar prints. Sorry for un-solicited advice. Great Video!
Nice to see the ol' MK3 in action again. Slicer should have a setting "do not cross perimeters" that helps a lot with stringing when printing TPU.
thx, I turned that on for this week's prints. I had this on for my TPU profile in my old slicer and was surprised to see it wasn't on by default on Orca.
Reminds me of rubber cement which I think was used on shoes years ago
probably the same base solvents I bet
I learned on my second TPU print to use a dry-box. It's a great material. But I could see the difference from the start to the end of a 4 hour print.
I wish I could find a dry box that actually held the temps needed for drying/keeping dry. All the ones I've tested do not meet spec when I've measured them :(
@FunctionalPrintFriday drying and keeping dry are two different jobs.
I have a modified food dehydrator for drying. It can easily get and keep the air at 10% and 50 c for the whole time it is running. (I use a PIC to regulate the temperature. )
Once it is dry, I use cheap plastic cereal boxes to hold it with desiccant until needed and while printing.
Longer term storage is in vacuum bags with desiccant.
@@GlennBrockett yeh, I use a "magic mill" food dehydrator for the actual drying and it works geat. I just wish the boxes sold as "dryers" that you can print from actually did what they were marketed to do
Bet the original foot is TPU/TPE. Because silicone takes time to set, so it's fundamentally more expensive to mass cast.
The difference is likely to be in the surface texture that they can can produce with a processed mold under pressure vs. how the material settles while 3D printing under surface tension. Our prints are likely to be microscopically smoother, while the mould can have micro texture for a slight gecko feet effect. It can also be in durometer, we usually print with somewhat harder material and rely on voids to make up the macroscopic compliance that we need.
interesting. appreciate the insight and info
You're really overdoing it here. But I love it. Good explanations for what you've done and why.
yeh, I get a little obsessed :)
I'm still 90%+ in the download and print phase. I'm starting to learn Fusion360 and have printed a couple of things. Hopeful to be able to get closer to your level of skill some day.
just use plasticity, got me drawing in an hour, i was just not getting along with fusion 😅
@@kubburdigital I have been looking at a new CAD software to continue designing. Thanks for your comment about Plasticity software. Cheers! 🍻
Try heating up the plate before trying to pull off the TPU part. It becomes flexible again and just peels off.
I'll have to try this
Cork seems like a bad idea for this. You can buy all sorts of sizes of adhesive backed rubber feet at the hardware store. And you can still do the foot thing so you can put a larger one on and make it secure. They also make feet that have a hold in the center to put a screw in to screw it to the leg. I think a sheet metal screw would work well here for this.
you can get better overhangs by stretching it, usually called bridge flow ratio, in prusa slicer its in print settings, and in advanced, under overlap
What do you use as a 3D software?
I am never the target audience of Hobby Lobby.
and that's a good thing :)
I would say cork is overkill coz tpu with hilbert curve or just bit uneven contact point/surface will grab to any flooring.
I printed leg protectors for Ikea Frosvi chairs and those are working pretty good (sidrnote they have to stay firmly on the leg of the chair so I had to use a bit of electrical tape on the leg itself coz smooth walls didnt wanted to grab to wood as much).
But ohnestly that cork insert just looks neat.
thx! I love the idea of hilbert curve for the bottom
@FunctionalPrintFriday I’m getting pretty comfortable printing lots of different types of models and materials, but I have no real CAD experience. I want to learn Sketchup and Fusion360, but I’m wondering if you have any advice for where to start? Online videos/courses? I feel like I need the structure of a course with assignments and samples to really dedicate myself to it.
Checkout onshape.
@@FunctionalPrintFriday I did try OnShape once a few months ago, but was going in without any tutorials or guides, so I didn’t get anything accomplished. I’m just having trouble getting motivated to do much this summer 😕
Nobody ever paid full price for that item, it's in a class that's perpetually at least "30% off marked" which is an annoyance with shopping there. Just put the price!
but who would buy it if it wasn't on sale? 🤣🤣😂😂🤣🤣
I first noticed this practice with jewelry stores. Always 50% off. And that price is always too much as well.
Your extruder temp is way too high