It's not just a lump of metal. It's a lump of boat metal. That generally multiplies the cost by 5. We measure the cost of everything on our boat in BU (boat units). 1 BU = £1,000. When you buy a new sail it feels far less painful to say it cost 5 BUs
FYI, Acetone CAN damage some plastics and resins. WD-40 spray oil is ideal for removing water from composite areas (WD=Water Displacement) AND it helps preserve the metal bolts. Glad to see that rotary tool I ordered for you is useful. You two are doing a fantastic job!
We didn’t know that! Thanks for the heads up Erik, we will be sure to use a different cleaner when we come to replace the remaining ones! The rotary tool is one of our most used tools on board- thanks again for that! 😊
Love that you guys are open to doing any and everything so many other would be afraid to do. You show anything is possible with good research and a willing to own mistakes and find the correct solution. We grow fastest by making mistakes, if your not making them then your in denial and will hamstring any self development. Great job guys!
Thanks so much! We both feel we have learnt most of our knowledge through making mistakes which we think is fine as long as we don't make the same mistake again 😜 and we love getting stuck in and just figuring it out ourselves so i guess that helps a bit!
Just discovered your channel. Binged all the sailing episodes - brilliantly presented, and great fun to watch. Heart in mouth for the next escapade. Love that you’re staying true and keeping it real. As a boat-owner and a long-time sailor I’ve seen it all … and I’m already admiring your resilience and resourcefulness!! Thanks for sharing your adventures so well. 🥂🎉💯👌🏽😎
So glad you enjoyed Roy! And so glad you can be here 😊 We are trying our best to keep it 100% down to earth, in the end, life isn't perfect and we never want to portray it that way!
just keep in mind that antifoul is a biocide, its not a good idea to get it all over you - also pro tip make a google sheet that dedicated to your boat, you can keep engine part numbers/suppliers/screw fittings sizes, paint amounts/electrical info/rigging info, maintenance info etc etc, its very helpful!
We are still alive 😜 but you are right, that's why we used suits and gloves next time 😊 good suggestion about the spreadsheet- we have one for maintenance but one for parts would be really helpful! Thanks!
The anodes work by corroding more easily than the other metals in the water. When any metal (including the anode) corrodes it emits electrons (like electrical current). As the anode corrodes first it "fills up" the other metals with electrons (if they are connected or wired to it). When a metal is "full" of electrons it can't produce any themselves so therefore can't corrode. Metals can only corrode if they are allowed to emit electrons. Loving the videos. Well done!
Nice job! Little tip from my first haul out last year - if you're just scuffing up the old antifouling prior to painting, try wet sanding with a large hand sander, bucket and hose - it's less messy, and probably about the same effort.
True, wet sanding the Antifouling is also much cheaper as far less sandpaper is needed. Just use water and more water. Put the paper in a bucket for a few minutes before use. Working above your head will always cause messy situations as water will also drop everywhere and run down your arms... Still it's a lot easier and less messy.
You can see the true beauty of the boat when it is out of the water. Bravo for being very detailed in your inspections and repairs that should minimize a lot of issues later. Hands on work you will now know Teulu bow to stern. Cheers
Well done Zach and Becka!!! You are both happy toget ‘stuck in’ and get your hands dirty! You are an amazing team and love the way you work so well together 🥰🥰🥰
If you have a floor board that’s difficult to lift up you can spray WD 40 on the areas where you think it’s jammed and try and move it, if it still doesn’t move put a screw into the board and lever it up from the screw, fill the screw hole later with some epoxy.
Just watched episode 119 where you cleaned the bilge. I use pine-sol and bleach, or dishwasher detergent. Let it slosh about a bit and offshore pump it out. Keeps all the crud out, and sweet smelling, sort of. Keep up the good work
Thats a great suggestion- thanks so much Michael! We want to really scrub and clean all our bilges at some point but due to all the other jobs, it just keeps getting pushed further down the list- but now at least we know how to when we do 😊
Cool video. I can remember taking my old yacht (Valiant Lady) out the water. Found loads of Mussels about a shopping bag full so took them round the near by fish restaurants and sold them for the best offer. Got a price for them as well.
Still watching! Another well done video. Haul outs are always a time of sad discoveries ($4,000 USD for a new rudder my last time out), strange problems, unexpected delays, unavailable parts (and we all have spares we rediscover right after installing the new bought part we waited weeks for delivery, and sweaty, gritty, messy days. Time on the hard is also full of fun discoveries, learning, and more confidence in your boat. You did very well in capturing much of that this week. I look forward to the next release. Fair winds (blowing gently through the yard) Bob, S/V Wild Rose
@@TeuluTribe The original rudder had become waterlogged. It was saturated long enough for the rudder shaft and the frame inside the rudder to be completely rusted. No patch or reworking would have been safe. The actual price was worse since I had to pay to ship the old rudder to a shop to use as a mold, shipping for the new rudder to come to me, and pay for an extra month in the yard waiting for the new rudder to be built. Sailing is just plum (or is that plumb) full of surprises!
What a great demonstration of why dry sanding of antifoul is not a good idea. I did that too once too...only once. Then someone suggested wet sanding with drywall sanding mesh. It is quicker, easier and far less messy.
Glad you guys are doing so well. It's inspiring seeing how well you guys are doing with learning as you go! Me and my fiance are saving to buy a boat and watching these videos make us excited for when we can get on the water.
I love realy the way you are discovering and reparing all the found problems. You both could be my childeren, but we wana do still the same adventure. Go on you will do it. Can't wait to see next episode 👍👍👍
This is such compulsive viewing…. I wish I was young again and discovering all the things that you guys are…. Keep going and doing these fantastic things - looking forward to the BIG makeover reveal..
Really enjoying watching your journey learning this stuff. As soon as you said you could hear the ticking I knew it was the depth sounder, but as you said you would never know! Finally, there is a really good nuts and bolts shop in Exeter Street, near marine bazaar. The equivalent of 316 stainless steel in the nuts and bolts world is called A4. Apologies if you know all this already
A4 is just a brand name, the correct name is 1.4571. Usually... There are also 2 more types of seawater resistant Stainless Steel but 1.4571 is most often used for technical things and below water. In the superyacht business 1.4571 is not used on deck for fittings as it can not be polished as good. Then 1.4401 or 1.4404 is used. Standard fittings for normal sailboats like bollards or shroud tensioners are usually made of 1.4571.
well done guys :D editing skills are improving too I see :D :D Still enjoy seeing more people getting into sailing. I am hoping I will find time to enjoy this hobby too in the near future!
Ah-hah! The waterlogged rudder club.has some new members. Well, along with pretty much every other yacht owner on the planet. GRP rudders have always had, er, "issues". Which is kind of inherent in the way they're made and the job they're asked to do. Old barn door rudders in wooden boat days were made by bolting together strips of wood to laminate up a great slab of timber -job jobbed. When inventing GRP rudders, they were made by moulding two halves, and gluing them together around a stainless steel armature that is welded to the rudder posts. Problems start with the load that rudders have to bear when acting as, well, as rudders. Certain types are more vulnerable to failure. Skeg hung, relatively small rudders (like yours!) are pretty robust. The sealant between the two halves leaks as the rudder bends and flexes under load. The seawater corrodes the armature inside, and eventually it will fail. However, the good news is that on your type, that failure will take a long time to occur as the loads a cruising ketch will generate are pretty modest.. Any failure is likley to be below the level of the rudder skeg, so there'll still be some rudder area to function. Also, being an older Colvic, it's built like a russian war memorial, so there's a lot in reserve! Modern blade rudders on race boats, built down to a computer calculated price, are a helluva lot more vulnerable, and do fail rather too frquently.... No sign of any osmosis anywhere on a Colvic? I'm shocked, shocked I tell ya... (not)
It sure does! I guess its reassuring to know there are plenty of them out there. We were considering taking it off and drying out properly but decided to pick our battles with this one as (you'll see in next weeks vid), another issue came up which we needed to fix far more than a soggy rudder (which had probably been that way for 20+ years 🤣 its nice to know ours is one of the less likely types to be vulnerable to damage. Haha 'built like a Russian war memorial'- you got that right for sure! Thanks for your comment Roger!
I had an 18’ buccaneer day sailer that I refinished hull, cockpit and stowage years ago. Had a few fiberglass repairs I had to do (nasty stuff to work with). Redid rigging and a few teak bits. Had fun with her for about 5yrs before selling it
absolutely brilliant you 2 get stuck right in there great video the coal miner who kept appearing looked a lot like zac lol,the fact that while your actually working you actually get all set up for filming to bring us all along is just well wow 😮 you are both so endearing to people I see great things in your future and look forward to it all , bit of a ramble there making a long comment so apologies lol 😂🥹🥵🥵
Thanks Paul! Haha yes, no idea who that odd sotty guy was 🤣 it definitely is double the work with filming but thats ok! We really enjoy doing it 😊 we appreciate your ramble so much!
Hull Work is Scary & Dirty☹️ Someone just filled-in the Depth Sounder & poorly connected Anodes😜 And all Marine Parts are So Expensive…Glad you’ve got Folks giving Good Advice👍 Continue to Stay Save & Enjoy😎
Hi Becks Zach, top stuff, really enjoying ur boat projects, but please if u can start buying some descent tools, get a nice big tool bag and fill it up. If u need a list just let me know, as a mechanic I can certainly help u get the ones u need not the ones u don't 🤣🤣 great to see Teulu out of water she looks good. Luv yas later 🌟🇦🇺🌈🇬🇧
Haha we do have a big tool bag now! I just still choose to use whatever i find lying around a fork worked wonders in this situation 🤣 thats very kind though! Thanks for the offer 😊
In my opinion, one of the biggest jobs of having your boat anodes correct, is in case your neighbor at the dock allows their shore power lines to hit the water. This will save your electronics. And unfortunately, it is common enough for neighbors to be unattended and the shore power to create havoc because it slips into the water, as you are living in a wet environment. This is also how boat fires can start. But good for y'all for ensuring your boat anodes are set up correctly. As all boats leak current, this helps when using your boat as a live aboard.
We have heard some people often throw an anode on a line overboard to also help with this so we have kept our old anode for this reason! Thanks Randal 😊
Great job guys. Might want to research that depth sounder a bit. All the ones here in states I have always seen don’t even get paint over the transducer, “the ticking sound part” much less caulk or epoxy. I was told it affects their ability for good depth readings. Not sure yours is the same but just in case.
Thanks Brenden 😊 We looked it up and couldn't find much about it however, it seems to be working ok as the depth in the berth is exactly what is was before we did the work to it! But i can see how it might stop the sound!
It may have worked with the car filler but this stuff takes a lot of water and forwards it into the laminate. Polyester can take up to 11 percent of water and the filler will suck water because of it's porous structure. Best would be to measure the water content in the laminate of that area. A boatbuilder should have a moisture meter. Putting the boat back in the water with wet laminate can cause osmosis. Osmosis is a natural process where different moisture is tried to equalize but it will destroy the laminate when the moisture pressure becomes to high. I like very much that you both do all the work together. It's very important for a couple out at sea that both are able to get the engine running again or troubleshoot electrical things in case one of you is injured. Often there's just no time to ask for every single step in an emergency situation. You need to know what to do. But I believe you're on a good way and both willing to learn. That's real equal rights.
Thats so interesting! Thanks André! Like you mentioned, we find it vital to both be able to do everything on board. And being a female especially, this is very liberating and as you said, 'real equal rights' 😊
@@TeuluTribe You're welcome... 😀 I'm a german naval architect and carpenter, restoring my own classic yacht from 1937. Hope could help a little. If you have any questions... My boat was in the Royal Navy from 1946 to 78, than sold to private. The previous owner was a good friend of mine for 10 years. His family invited me to his daughters wedding and his funeral in Polzeath, Cornwall. Great landscape, I have so many good memories to this. Friendly people, a little eccentric but in a nice way. Are you planning on sailing further one day? For sure it makes a lot of sense to learn before starting on a long passage. I'd like to see more of sailing over in Brittany, a hugely underestimated sailing area. If you go across the channel don't miss the northern coast and start right at the east end at Mont Saint Michel, St. Malo, Lezardrieux, Roscoff... My boat had it's home port in Morlaix for many years.
If you learn a new word you start seeing it all over and maybe wonder why you hadn't seen it before. You heard a noise coming from a soft spot in the hull and when you looked you saw something that had been there all along. We don't know what we don't know.🤔😂
This boat must have cost a pretty penny lol!! I have a Catalina 27” been working on her for a few months almost done with the interior! Like you boat that or a bit bigger is what we are looking to get a few years soon. Going to enjoy the 27” in the Bay Area of SF for a bit first! 🤞 good luck on everything! Like your videos!
Check with the previous owner if he disconnected the anode from the engine deliberately, there may be some other issues like corrosion of the driveshaft in the stern gland
Those little weeping spots you found as you scraped out the car filler could be evidence of osmosis I’m afraid. I had the same on my boat and as each little spot was found it was opened to find an acetic liquid oozing out. This was washed out with water before drying and refilling the holes with epoxy. It wasn’t a permanent fix as to do this really needs the gel coat to be planed and a proper treatment undertaken. Expensive and time consuming. On the plus side I have not heard of a boat sinking from osmosis. 👍
Hi Nigel! It was just an old ding which someone had filled- the survey when we bought it said there was no sign of osmosis at all (they used a damp meter and the rating was in the great range)!
@@TeuluTribe That’s really good news. When I was doing similar work on my boat I opened a can of worms as every time I dug out a bit of car filler there were these horrible voids in the lay up. Thankfully her lay up was so thick it wasn’t going to be a problem so after I had dug through quite a few of these and lost a lot of sleep I decided to draw a line and stop. There was simply no point in continuing. That was 6 years ago and she’s still sailing. Keep up your hard work, If I was wearing one I’d take my hat off to you both. Well done.
Hi, Just a side note. Some rudders are purposely filled with either water (neutral) air or oil (positively buoyant) or steel shot or disks in oil to be negatively buoyant (this is surrounded by oil to stop corrosion). Your rudder may have had water in for a reason..... or maybe not..... (Glad I helped!!!!)
Just saw in the description that you did. Not sure how it works in the UK, but you have recourse for these types of situations in many parts of the world.
@@TeuluTribe Yes, they should have professional liability insurance ... missing that grounding for one was a big mistake. It might look serviceable, but ...
The S/S rudder skeg bolts will corrode away anode or not When they are trapped in say the skeg the water will eventually turn them back to iron and they fail ALWAYS USE A4 S/S anything less will rust away totally
Most electrolisis is caused by 2 factors In a marina poor instalation and other vessels plugged in with bad wiring and the other is ALL wiring MUST be Insulated Return in other words the earth wires MUST NOT be connected to any part of the vessel except the batteries . IR starter and alternator are 2 culprits if not fitted
Anodes got a galvanic isolator? Galvanic transformers (about 600 quid by Victron) are supposed to ve much better. Now something Cheap very cheap in Comparison, which "May" help to extend Expensive Anode Life, potentially Considerably (to think about for Next Haulout), I came across on a couple of Forums where people were talking about what to use for antifouling propellers - Cold Galvanising Zinc Paint. You can get it in Aerosols and tins for brush and roller on, and users of it have had no problems for in excess of 10 years. 96% zinc content in a silicon medium that doesn't even need stirring, 1kg tins in UK, costs about 24 quid Inc VAT. You can Get Marine Zinc Paint from Chandlers but it is about 4 times the price for identical Paint. Aerosols have less Zinc in them, and cost about 10 quid inc VAT 6 dollars ish USA. 3Coats protects for up to 18 months, and it is non Toxic, plus is an Anode (wearing away the surface electrically may be how it works as Antifoul ? Well I haven't had a chance to try this yet myself due to no boat presently. What I plan to do, as my next boat will have a bolted on iron Keel , is 2 coats of Epoxy Barrier Coat then 5 coats of Cold Galvanising Zinc Paint, then 2 coats of rolled on 96% topped with 1 coat of aerosol on the Prop, and 3 coats of 96% on the Fudder. That will be a heck of a lot of Anode Protection all around the Boat, and as I'll be hauling out annually for thorough inspection, Full Service etc, I'll be able to see how the Cold Galvanising is coping, plus see what state the Anodes are in. to refresh the Paint if needed, just pressure wash, give a good scrub and slap more Cold Gal arising on. If your anchor Galvanising looks a bit thin, slap some on that as well. It may be a long wait for an update, but I'll try to remember to give one, with lose up photos of the paint plus Anode surfaces. Did you get a PVC or Hypalon Dinghy by the way ? If PVC something to extend its life would be a full di ghy cover, lots cheaper than Chaos, and for tubes etc when the cover is off due to dinghy being in the Sun being used ? Try a Spray and wipe Iver with sensitive Skin High Factor Sun Blocker. The Ambre Solaire Factor 50 was 5 quid from Tesco, and this summer Test pieces of PVC showed no degradation. Non Sensitive Skin Protection from UV may be as good, but cost the same so I started with that. There is a new PVC that is much more resistant to UV that Seago use on their PVC inflatables, but as they arevthe same weight as their 3 metre Hypalon air deck and air keel, I think I'll go for that and wait on more Info on how good the new PVC ones are doing. May pick up a 2.4 mtr backup one to keep in the foredeck locker with a small 3.3 hp lightweight tohatsu 2 stroke outboard just in case, as I've a couple in the garage, one with a Mercury label on it, and they are little beaters. Best Wishes and Fair Winds. Bob. 👍
Boats are just holes in the water you throw money into. If something is being sold for a boat, it will for sure be more expensive than if being sold for the home... keep up the good work though
That filler in the hull outboard of the depth sounder seems pretty weird and doesn’t appear to be well done, I reckon you should dig it all out and check what’s going on….
Hi guys, hate to be an ol grump but that black bottom paint is highly toxic and many people have lost the lives to it. PPE is your friend dont let this work ruin your health.
It's not just a lump of metal. It's a lump of boat metal. That generally multiplies the cost by 5. We measure the cost of everything on our boat in BU (boat units). 1 BU = £1,000. When you buy a new sail it feels far less painful to say it cost 5 BUs
Haha this made us laugh a lot. This is definitely something we need to start doing 🤣
Would it be worth getting the equipment to cast one's own anode from scrap metal, rather than pay the boat premium?
@@Skiamakhos And just where do you propose to get pure zinc?
@@johncolley6225Amazon has zinc.
Love it. You're clearly both great people that others are happy to help. She'll be spick 'n' span in no time.
Thanks so much Chris, people are so lovely and we feel so grateful for them helping us figure it all out 🤣
FYI, Acetone CAN damage some plastics and resins. WD-40 spray oil is ideal for removing water from composite areas (WD=Water Displacement) AND it helps preserve the metal bolts. Glad to see that rotary tool I ordered for you is useful. You two are doing a fantastic job!
We didn’t know that! Thanks for the heads up Erik, we will be sure to use a different cleaner when we come to replace the remaining ones! The rotary tool is one of our most used tools on board- thanks again for that! 😊
Great job 👏. You are both about to enjoy the fruits of your labor. Happy journeys!
Thanks so much Tom!
Love that you guys are open to doing any and everything so many other would be afraid to do. You show anything is possible with good research and a willing to own mistakes and find the correct solution. We grow fastest by making mistakes, if your not making them then your in denial and will hamstring any self development. Great job guys!
Thanks so much! We both feel we have learnt most of our knowledge through making mistakes which we think is fine as long as we don't make the same mistake again 😜 and we love getting stuck in and just figuring it out ourselves so i guess that helps a bit!
Good job you two. This will be a great help to those who are new to maintenance.
Thanks so much 😊
Just discovered your channel. Binged all the sailing episodes - brilliantly presented, and great fun to watch. Heart in mouth for the next escapade. Love that you’re staying true and keeping it real.
As a boat-owner and a long-time sailor I’ve seen it all … and I’m already admiring your resilience and resourcefulness!! Thanks for sharing your adventures so well. 🥂🎉💯👌🏽😎
So glad you enjoyed Roy! And so glad you can be here 😊 We are trying our best to keep it 100% down to earth, in the end, life isn't perfect and we never want to portray it that way!
just keep in mind that antifoul is a biocide, its not a good idea to get it all over you - also pro tip make a google sheet that dedicated to your boat, you can keep engine part numbers/suppliers/screw fittings sizes, paint amounts/electrical info/rigging info, maintenance info etc etc, its very helpful!
We are still alive 😜 but you are right, that's why we used suits and gloves next time 😊 good suggestion about the spreadsheet- we have one for maintenance but one for parts would be really helpful! Thanks!
Good input.
Knowing all there is to know about boats comes with experience. Your's is comoing along nicely.
Thanks Ron 😊
Really impressed with your hard work and how great Teulu looked when you'd finished.
Thanks Steph!
The anodes work by corroding more easily than the other metals in the water. When any metal (including the anode) corrodes it emits electrons (like electrical current). As the anode corrodes first it "fills up" the other metals with electrons (if they are connected or wired to it). When a metal is "full" of electrons it can't produce any themselves so therefore can't corrode. Metals can only corrode if they are allowed to emit electrons.
Loving the videos. Well done!
You have a lot to learn but you will learn it’s great to see a young couple doing this😊🇦🇺
Thanks John 😊
Nice job! Little tip from my first haul out last year - if you're just scuffing up the old antifouling prior to painting, try wet sanding with a large hand sander, bucket and hose - it's less messy, and probably about the same effort.
True, wet sanding the Antifouling is also much cheaper as far less sandpaper is needed. Just use water and more water. Put the paper in a bucket for a few minutes before use. Working above your head will always cause messy situations as water will also drop everywhere and run down your arms... Still it's a lot easier and less messy.
Great suggestion Keith- we didn't even think about that. Thanks!
You can see the true beauty of the boat when it is out of the water. Bravo for being very detailed in your inspections and repairs that should minimize a lot of issues later. Hands on work you will now know Teulu bow to stern. Cheers
And the sheer size of her! It was quite unbelievable when we first got out!
She looks to be in pretty good condition! Fair winds guys!
She does- we are so happy! Thanks Mark 😊
Well done Zach and Becka!!! You are both happy toget ‘stuck in’ and get your hands dirty! You are an amazing team and love the way you work so well together 🥰🥰🥰
Thanks Helen! We do work well as a team- just as well I suppose when you live in a 40ft space together 🤣
If you have a floor board that’s difficult to lift up you can spray WD 40 on the areas where you think it’s jammed and try and move it, if it still doesn’t move put a screw into the board and lever it up from the screw, fill the screw hole later with some epoxy.
Just watched episode 119 where you cleaned the bilge. I use pine-sol and bleach, or dishwasher detergent. Let it slosh about a bit and offshore pump it out. Keeps all the crud out, and sweet smelling, sort of. Keep up the good work
Thats a great suggestion- thanks so much Michael! We want to really scrub and clean all our bilges at some point but due to all the other jobs, it just keeps getting pushed further down the list- but now at least we know how to when we do 😊
Can't wait till we see you in the land down under !
Ah we would love to one day!
Cool video. I can remember taking my old yacht (Valiant Lady) out the water. Found loads of Mussels about a shopping bag full so took them round the near by fish restaurants and sold them for the best offer. Got a price for them as well.
Still watching! Another well done video. Haul outs are always a time of sad discoveries ($4,000 USD for a new rudder my last time out), strange problems, unexpected delays, unavailable parts (and we all have spares we rediscover right after installing the new bought part we waited weeks for delivery, and sweaty, gritty, messy days. Time on the hard is also full of fun discoveries, learning, and more confidence in your boat. You did very well in capturing much of that this week. I look forward to the next release.
Fair winds (blowing gently through the yard)
Bob, S/V Wild Rose
Thanks Bob 😊 Ouch- a new rudder is a very painful suprise. What was wrong with it?
Haha- Fair winds (blowing gently through the yard) made us laugh 🤣
@@TeuluTribe The original rudder had become waterlogged. It was saturated long enough for the rudder shaft and the frame inside the rudder to be completely rusted. No patch or reworking would have been safe. The actual price was worse since I had to pay to ship the old rudder to a shop to use as a mold, shipping for the new rudder to come to me, and pay for an extra month in the yard waiting for the new rudder to be built. Sailing is just plum (or is that plumb) full of surprises!
@@bobmeador4465 Ouch, sounds like a very expensive ordeal! At least its all done for now though! A weight off your mind i am sure
What a great demonstration of why dry sanding of antifoul is not a good idea. I did that too once too...only once. Then someone suggested wet sanding with drywall sanding mesh. It is quicker, easier and far less messy.
I’ll have to give this a go next time! Thanks for the tip 😊
I love you guys.. your both so cute and funny. I was laughing through out your whole video.
So glad!😊
great to see some in depth boat work, nice job
Thanks Matte 😊
Great work guys! Glad the weather was nice for it!
Thanks Tom, yes, we are so grateful we got lucky with the weather!
Bruce from Northern Canada=39c today== Love watching.== Remember, RENO saves DEMO!!!
Wise words! Thanks Bruce!
Love watching you guys learn 😊
Brilliant 👍👍
Thanks Stuart! 😊😊
Glad you guys are doing so well. It's inspiring seeing how well you guys are doing with learning as you go! Me and my fiance are saving to buy a boat and watching these videos make us excited for when we can get on the water.
Thanks Adam! That’s so exciting! Hopefully see you on the water some day 😊
Another fantastic video glad the haul out went well for you
Thanks Peter!
The projects are a process.
thanks for my break!
Glad u sorted out your flag
dandy episode.
thankyou!
Glad you enjoyed! 😊
Boat...bet on another thousand ( dollars...pounds..doesn'tmatter) !! But it seems just so much fun! Thanks for being inspirational 🙏 ❤️
Absolutely! ^ It is soo much fun (and hard work, but mainly fun!)
I love realy the way you are discovering and reparing all the found problems. You both could be my childeren, but we wana do still the same adventure. Go on you will do it. Can't wait to see next episode 👍👍👍
You have to do it Jan! Hard work but so, so, so worth it!
Hands on approach. Learning by doing. Love your style!!
Exactly! Thanks so much 😊
This is such compulsive viewing…. I wish I was young again and discovering all the things that you guys are…. Keep going and doing these fantastic things - looking forward to the BIG makeover reveal..
So glad you enjoy the vids Andrew 😊 you can discover alongside us! Big makeover reveal coming Monday! 😊
Great job guys from Texas we love your videos Thank you
Thanks David! Glad you enjoy them 😊
Really enjoying watching your journey learning this stuff. As soon as you said you could hear the ticking I knew it was the depth sounder, but as you said you would never know! Finally, there is a really good nuts and bolts shop in Exeter Street, near marine bazaar. The equivalent of 316 stainless steel in the nuts and bolts world is called A4. Apologies if you know all this already
A4 is just a brand name, the correct name is 1.4571. Usually... There are also 2 more types of seawater resistant Stainless Steel but 1.4571 is most often used for technical things and below water. In the superyacht business 1.4571 is not used on deck for fittings as it can not be polished as good. Then 1.4401 or 1.4404 is used. Standard fittings for normal sailboats like bollards or shroud tensioners are usually made of 1.4571.
Thanks so much! We have actually found that little store and its been a godsend for us! 1000 x cheaper than Force 4 for sure 😊
Thats so interesting André!
@@TeuluTribe It should be alled Factor 4, they're not the cheapest chandlers.
Cool episode... great viewing :) thanks
Thanks Shaun! 😊
Enjoyed. Thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it Damian 😊
well done guys :D editing skills are improving too I see :D :D
Still enjoy seeing more people getting into sailing. I am hoping I will find time to enjoy this hobby too in the near future!
Thanks Andrea! You really should- its so enjoyable 😊
@@TeuluTribe Yeah, trying to make it happen :) Unfortunately living on one is not a possibility in the near future :)
Ah-hah! The waterlogged rudder club.has some new members. Well, along with pretty much every other yacht owner on the planet. GRP rudders have always had, er, "issues". Which is kind of inherent in the way they're made and the job they're asked to do. Old barn door rudders in wooden boat days were made by bolting together strips of wood to laminate up a great slab of timber -job jobbed. When inventing GRP rudders, they were made by moulding two halves, and gluing them together around a stainless steel armature that is welded to the rudder posts. Problems start with the load that rudders have to bear when acting as, well, as rudders. Certain types are more vulnerable to failure. Skeg hung, relatively small rudders (like yours!) are pretty robust. The sealant between the two halves leaks as the rudder bends and flexes under load. The seawater corrodes the armature inside, and eventually it will fail. However, the good news is that on your type, that failure will take a long time to occur as the loads a cruising ketch will generate are pretty modest.. Any failure is likley to be below the level of the rudder skeg, so there'll still be some rudder area to function. Also, being an older Colvic, it's built like a russian war memorial, so there's a lot in reserve! Modern blade rudders on race boats, built down to a computer calculated price, are a helluva lot more vulnerable, and do fail rather too frquently....
No sign of any osmosis anywhere on a Colvic? I'm shocked, shocked I tell ya... (not)
It sure does! I guess its reassuring to know there are plenty of them out there. We were considering taking it off and drying out properly but decided to pick our battles with this one as (you'll see in next weeks vid), another issue came up which we needed to fix far more than a soggy rudder (which had probably been that way for 20+ years 🤣 its nice to know ours is one of the less likely types to be vulnerable to damage. Haha 'built like a Russian war memorial'- you got that right for sure! Thanks for your comment Roger!
I had an 18’ buccaneer day sailer that I refinished hull, cockpit and stowage years ago.
Had a few fiberglass repairs I had to do (nasty stuff to work with).
Redid rigging and a few teak bits.
Had fun with her for about 5yrs before selling it
Wow, bet that was a big job but it must have been so rewarding that first sail back!
Gold is just metal too lol it would work better probably
absolutely brilliant you 2 get stuck right in there great video the coal miner who kept appearing looked a lot like zac lol,the fact that while your actually working you actually get all set up for filming to bring us all along is just well wow 😮 you are both so endearing to people I see great things in your future and look forward to it all , bit of a ramble there making a long comment so apologies lol 😂🥹🥵🥵
Thanks Paul! Haha yes, no idea who that odd sotty guy was 🤣 it definitely is double the work with filming but thats ok! We really enjoy doing it 😊 we appreciate your ramble so much!
I really wonder if you guys did this level of careful checking on a brand new fibreglass boat... would you find flaws?
Possibly!
Good job.
You are lucky to be in cold water, the bottom growth in the Bahama's would scare the crap out of you
I bet it would! We have heard they have some really strong antifouls over there and that must be why!
Hull Work is Scary & Dirty☹️ Someone just filled-in the Depth Sounder & poorly connected Anodes😜 And all Marine Parts are So Expensive…Glad you’ve got Folks giving Good Advice👍 Continue to Stay Save & Enjoy😎
Haha yep! Think you are correct there!
Hi Becks Zach, top stuff, really enjoying ur boat projects, but please if u can start buying some descent tools, get a nice big tool bag and fill it up. If u need a list just let me know, as a mechanic I can certainly help u get the ones u need not the ones u don't 🤣🤣 great to see Teulu out of water she looks good. Luv yas later 🌟🇦🇺🌈🇬🇧
Haha we do have a big tool bag now! I just still choose to use whatever i find lying around a fork worked wonders in this situation 🤣 thats very kind though! Thanks for the offer 😊
In my opinion, one of the biggest jobs of having your boat anodes correct, is in case your neighbor at the dock allows their shore power lines to hit the water. This will save your electronics. And unfortunately, it is common enough for neighbors to be unattended and the shore power to create havoc because it slips into the water, as you are living in a wet environment. This is also how boat fires can start. But good for y'all for ensuring your boat anodes are set up correctly. As all boats leak current, this helps when using your boat as a live aboard.
We have heard some people often throw an anode on a line overboard to also help with this so we have kept our old anode for this reason! Thanks Randal 😊
Yes, those anodes have seen better days. A blast for the prop annd your off again.
Ok a scrape then.
They sure have! You'll have to look out for next weeks vid to see what else we found 😝
Great job guys. Might want to research that depth sounder a bit. All the ones here in states I have always seen don’t even get paint over the transducer, “the ticking sound part” much less caulk or epoxy. I was told it affects their ability for good depth readings. Not sure yours is the same but just in case.
Thanks Brenden 😊 We looked it up and couldn't find much about it however, it seems to be working ok as the depth in the berth is exactly what is was before we did the work to it! But i can see how it might stop the sound!
Maybe paint those sections that have instruments a different color, like 1" diameter dots indicating where things are located.
Just buy a label maker. Trust me you won't regret it.
Thats a good suggestion 😊
Also a great suggestion!
"That wire down there should go back to something".
have you tried the stainless fittings shop on exeter street, they have almost everything you ever need in a4 or a2 stainless?
We have! Its amazing in there, well over half the price of traditional fittings- although he did laugh when he saw our rudder bolts!
Beckham Zack the best
Great video
Thanks Harold 😊
It may have worked with the car filler but this stuff takes a lot of water and forwards it into the laminate. Polyester can take up to 11 percent of water and the filler will suck water because of it's porous structure. Best would be to measure the water content in the laminate of that area. A boatbuilder should have a moisture meter. Putting the boat back in the water with wet laminate can cause osmosis. Osmosis is a natural process where different moisture is tried to equalize but it will destroy the laminate when the moisture pressure becomes to high.
I like very much that you both do all the work together. It's very important for a couple out at sea that both are able to get the engine running again or troubleshoot electrical things in case one of you is injured. Often there's just no time to ask for every single step in an emergency situation. You need to know what to do. But I believe you're on a good way and both willing to learn. That's real equal rights.
Thats so interesting! Thanks André! Like you mentioned, we find it vital to both be able to do everything on board. And being a female especially, this is very liberating and as you said, 'real equal rights' 😊
@@TeuluTribe You're welcome... 😀 I'm a german naval architect and carpenter, restoring my own classic yacht from 1937. Hope could help a little. If you have any questions... My boat was in the Royal Navy from 1946 to 78, than sold to private. The previous owner was a good friend of mine for 10 years. His family invited me to his daughters wedding and his funeral in Polzeath, Cornwall. Great landscape, I have so many good memories to this. Friendly people, a little eccentric but in a nice way. Are you planning on sailing further one day? For sure it makes a lot of sense to learn before starting on a long passage. I'd like to see more of sailing over in Brittany, a hugely underestimated sailing area. If you go across the channel don't miss the northern coast and start right at the east end at Mont Saint Michel, St. Malo, Lezardrieux, Roscoff... My boat had it's home port in Morlaix for many years.
If you learn a new word you start seeing it all over and maybe wonder why you hadn't seen it before. You heard a noise coming from a soft spot in the hull and when you looked you saw something that had been there all along. We don't know what we don't know.🤔😂
Great video! :)
Thanks! 😊
Sun cream through me off 😂 I've never heard I called anything other then sun screen
Haha i have never thought about that before 🤣
This boat must have cost a pretty penny lol!! I have a Catalina 27” been working on her for a few months almost done with the interior!
Like you boat that or a bit bigger is what we are looking to get a few years soon. Going to enjoy the 27” in the Bay Area of SF for a bit first!
🤞 good luck on everything! Like your videos!
Thanks Mike. Lovely boat! I bet that Bay is great sailing. Whats the weather like over there at the moment. Is it warm?
Love your videos :)
Thanks so much!
Strange that the depth gauge was completely covered like that. Most of the newer ones include a speed paddle wheel so they are fully exposed.
Yes, thats what we thought too!
So enjoying, I think that is a great floor plan and design and is close to what I should get, what’s the draft ? Thank you
Glad you are enjoying Randy 😊 Her draft is 1.82m
Here’s 1/10th of an anode
Haha yup 🤣
No work involved. Pour the cleaners in the bilge and let motion do the work.
Will try that- thanks!
Check with the previous owner if he disconnected the anode from the engine deliberately, there may be some other issues like corrosion of the driveshaft in the stern gland
Good suggestion Paul- thanks!
❤
Those little weeping spots you found as you scraped out the car filler could be evidence of osmosis I’m afraid. I had the same on my boat and as each little spot was found it was opened to find an acetic liquid oozing out. This was washed out with water before drying and refilling the holes with epoxy. It wasn’t a permanent fix as to do this really needs the gel coat to be planed and a proper treatment undertaken. Expensive and time consuming. On the plus side I have not heard of a boat sinking from osmosis. 👍
Hi Nigel! It was just an old ding which someone had filled- the survey when we bought it said there was no sign of osmosis at all (they used a damp meter and the rating was in the great range)!
@@TeuluTribe That’s really good news. When I was doing similar work on my boat I opened a can of worms as every time I dug out a bit of car filler there were these horrible voids in the lay up. Thankfully her lay up was so thick it wasn’t going to be a problem so after I had dug through quite a few of these and lost a lot of sleep I decided to draw a line and stop. There was simply no point in continuing. That was 6 years ago and she’s still sailing. Keep up your hard work, If I was wearing one I’d take my hat off to you both. Well done.
Hi, Just a side note. Some rudders are purposely filled with either water (neutral) air or oil (positively buoyant) or steel shot or disks in oil to be negatively buoyant (this is surrounded by oil to stop corrosion).
Your rudder may have had water in for a reason..... or maybe not..... (Glad I helped!!!!)
Ah interesting, we didn't know that. Thanks Brett! Just odd it was dripping out the bottom of it
She really cute, but both are in the dark. I look forward to seeing them really getting on their way
You bought a boat without haulout and inspection?
No, we had a full survey done in and out the water. But that was 6 months ago when we bought the boat.
104 owning Teulu its gone bye so so fast
Times flies when you are having fun!
Where did you get hauled out?
Mayflower Marina in Plymouth 😊
👍🌊⛵🎣💯
Did you guys have this boat surveyed when you bought it?
Just saw in the description that you did. Not sure how it works in the UK, but you have recourse for these types of situations in many parts of the world.
Do you mean you have help from the surveyor?
@@TeuluTribe Yes, they should have professional liability insurance ... missing that grounding for one was a big mistake. It might look serviceable, but ...
Great video guys but it is hard to concentrate on the details if you insist on wearing those shorts.
♥️♥️🥰🥰
Thanks for being here!
Greetings, I just discovered the channel, I am trying to own a boat.
Thanks for your comment! Good luck with the boat search 😊
Just remember to breathe kiddo 😆
Sometimes i forget Jan!
The S/S rudder skeg bolts will corrode away anode or not When they are trapped in say the skeg the water will eventually turn them back to iron and they fail ALWAYS USE A4 S/S anything less will rust away totally
We have just found four Stainless Steel bolts which are the perfect fit for it, only a few weeks too late 😆 next time!
Most electrolisis is caused by 2 factors In a marina poor instalation and other vessels plugged in with bad wiring and the other is ALL wiring MUST be Insulated Return in other words the earth wires MUST NOT be connected to any part of the vessel except the batteries . IR starter and alternator are 2 culprits if not fitted
Interesting! Thanks Howard 😊
😅😅😅😅😅
I think that revising this article would be useful. "Corrosion Reference Electrode and User's Guide" by ABYC-Certified Corrosion Experts.
Will look into that. Thanks Mark 😊
Anodes got a galvanic isolator? Galvanic transformers (about 600 quid by Victron) are supposed to ve much better. Now something Cheap very cheap in Comparison, which "May" help to extend Expensive Anode Life, potentially Considerably (to think about for Next Haulout), I came across on a couple of Forums where people were talking about what to use for antifouling propellers - Cold Galvanising Zinc Paint. You can get it in Aerosols and tins for brush and roller on, and users of it have had no problems for in excess of 10 years. 96% zinc content in a silicon medium that doesn't even need stirring, 1kg tins in UK, costs about 24 quid Inc VAT. You can Get Marine Zinc Paint from Chandlers but it is about 4 times the price for identical Paint. Aerosols have less Zinc in them, and cost about 10 quid inc VAT 6 dollars ish USA. 3Coats protects for up to 18 months, and it is non Toxic, plus is an Anode (wearing away the surface electrically may be how it works as Antifoul ? Well I haven't had a chance to try this yet myself due to no boat presently. What I plan to do, as my next boat will have a bolted on iron Keel , is 2 coats of Epoxy Barrier Coat then 5 coats of Cold Galvanising Zinc Paint, then 2 coats of rolled on 96% topped with 1 coat of aerosol on the Prop, and 3 coats of 96% on the Fudder. That will be a heck of a lot of Anode Protection all around the Boat, and as I'll be hauling out annually for thorough inspection, Full Service etc, I'll be able to see how the Cold Galvanising is coping, plus see what state the Anodes are in. to refresh the Paint if needed, just pressure wash, give a good scrub and slap more Cold Gal arising on. If your anchor Galvanising looks a bit thin, slap some on that as well. It may be a long wait for an update, but I'll try to remember to give one, with lose up photos of the paint plus Anode surfaces. Did you get a PVC or Hypalon Dinghy by the way ? If PVC something to extend its life would be a full di ghy cover, lots cheaper than Chaos, and for tubes etc when the cover is off due to dinghy being in the Sun being used ? Try a Spray and wipe Iver with sensitive Skin High Factor Sun Blocker. The Ambre Solaire Factor 50 was 5 quid from Tesco, and this summer Test pieces of PVC showed no degradation. Non Sensitive Skin Protection from UV may be as good, but cost the same so I started with that. There is a new PVC that is much more resistant to UV that Seago use on their PVC inflatables, but as they arevthe same weight as their 3 metre Hypalon air deck and air keel, I think I'll go for that and wait on more Info on how good the new PVC ones are doing. May pick up a 2.4 mtr backup one to keep in the foredeck locker with a small 3.3 hp lightweight tohatsu 2 stroke outboard just in case, as I've a couple in the garage, one with a Mercury label on it, and they are little beaters. Best Wishes and Fair Winds. Bob. 👍
Boats are just holes in the water you throw money into. If something is being sold for a boat, it will for sure be more expensive than if being sold for the home... keep up the good work though
Haha yup 🤣
That filler in the hull outboard of the depth sounder seems pretty weird and doesn’t appear to be well done, I reckon you should dig it all out and check what’s going on….
Thats exactly what we did do 😉
A
:)
:)
Good condition boat, nice work, and beautiful girlfriend! Congratulations! But talk a bit to mutch! To fast.
Thanks 😊
Hi guys, hate to be an ol grump but that black bottom paint is highly toxic and many people have lost the lives to it. PPE is your friend dont let this work ruin your health.
We wore full PPE shortly after this 😊 thanks Garry
Another check for £38000 from daddy 😂
Haha you clearly know nothing about us if you think this is the case 😂
Love watching you guys learn 😊